Sub's your channel today after discovering your vids that I found getting my morning dose of arrma/rc YT content. Appreciate you going through the differences between the V1 V2 V3 and V4 diffs, something that can help alot of ppl especially the newer arrma owners who are not aware of the changes Arrma RC's recieve thanks to Hh/arrma truly changing/adding to preexisting versions in order to really provide us with the best possible rtr rigs at the lowest price point. Really explained things very well and this vid goes into my small list of arrma related maintenance vids that I suggest to guys new yo RC/arrma for sure. Thanks for taking the time to thoroughly go through and create such a clear,informative and vital differential vid that I'm sure will help many from the new owners to the guys like myself who own many 1/8 scale 6sblx arrma rigs. Thanks again and keep these vids coming. Cheersa
You spun the rear diff ring in reverse. And the front ring in the forward direction. The continuous wear pattern on the forward drive side of the gear teeth is not the same for an audible setup comparison. Spin both diffs in the forward direction. Heavier fluid in center diff will send less power to the front wheels when unloaded preventing ballooning more directly than thickening the front fluid. The compromise is the vehicle will tend to wheelie easier under full load. Great video. Thank you for the servo saver bearing information. Best diff video I have seen on the tube. The stock bronze bushing are not ideal.
Interesting, and good to know. Thx for sharing that info. Glad you liked the vid. Yeah next week I plan on tossing some silicon earplugs into my center differential. Heard that it will go along way for preventing ballooning in the front. And also make her do willies more. Might even be able to pull off a standing backflip with the stock motor and ESC. We’ll see, of course I don’t want to tear up my gears either.
That’s awesome brother be sure to hit me up whenever you have any questions. I try to answer super quick. Also now that you’re subbed (which thank you by the way) I’ve got all kinds of content that will add wrinkles to your brain and help you out. Welcome to the best hobby ever!
So puts shims in front rear center the fluids are team fluid and All Metal gears the input gears spur gears and center gears mi understanding this Right?
I did put the new shims in, 1 under each big sun gear and 1 on each side of the cross bar, took stock out, put it back together dry, and it dont feel right, very catchy when spinning only 1 out drive. So im guessing take the bigger mugen shims out put stock back in and keep the small mugen shims on crossbar
Awesome! You’re gonna love the hobby. Really there are so many different brands of batteries and chargers, it’s hard to say. I myself prefer to run with one single 6s battery. Instead of running two separate 3S batteries There simply has half the potential for issues. In my opinion getting a battery that’s got a C rating above 75 at the very least gives you the peace of mind that the burst power the battery offers is legitimate. Many will say though that the C rating is pretty negligible as far as impact on performance. As far as the Brand goes, if you end up getting a spectrum smart battery then options are available for telemetry with the family of products. Otherwise I would just make sure you get a decent size battery, if you go with the single, anything over 5000 mA is fine. Naturally you want to make sure that The connectors that come with your battery will fit your vehicle out of the box so you don’t have to finagle with soldering new connections etc. also… If you’re going to spend the money you might as well spend a little bit extra and get a battery charger that is a duel charger, having the ability to charge two batteries at once will no matter what come in handy down the road. Your battery and charger purchase a lot of times also comes down to convenience. It’s one of the few things that I actually drove to a hobby store and picked up instead of ordering it online. But you can do either. Here is a link to a video that gives a good overview of just about everything you need to know about chargers and batteries. Even shows the battery charger that I use. In the description of this video you’ll find a link called “the master link“. It’s a large list of products that I’ve sort of pull together into one single list if you scroll far enough through it you’ll find options for battery chargers and batteries from Amazon. Again welcome! th-cam.com/video/WSALCiKZ7QU/w-d-xo.html
@@EastTactics Wow, thank you for such a detailed reply. So helpful as I’m new to RC’s that aren’t Traxxas and for me the Kraton 6S is better than the Maxx for what I use it for. I’ll have a look at the list, thanks again! 👍
True, I’m sure it has something to do with mass production and the variances that happen in assembly line production. Weighed against the cost of incorporating such a fix. And a lot of the reason for tightening up the mesh Happens to be needed as a result of the changes that we make to the vehicle such as adding more weight with upgrades, changing the motor, pinion, Esc etc. But I still think you’re right, they should fix what seems to be a commonly needed upgrade and incorporate it into theirmanufacturing.
Good video thank you, When you changed to the Hot Racing Diff cups, did you reduce the shims back to one shim for each one of the 4 bevel gears? I found the internal meshing a little too tight with 2x 2 and 2x 1
So to make sure we’re talking about the same thing here. I’m actually not running the actual hot racing differential cups themselves. I did switch over to the hot racing differential housings. Regarding the external shim on the left side (outside of the bearing) I still was able to fit two in there. But it is actually different for every vehicle. Ultimately just wanna make sure there’s no side to side slop. Now regarding the internals of the differential cup itself. Regarding the spider gears. I found that the mugen seiki shims are actually thicker than the stock ones so yes I only run one shim per side. Instead of the two, one, two combo. I have also found after tightening everything down if you go too tight with your four screws that lock down the main differential gear sometimes you get some binding. Often times you can just very lightly back off on those four screws and that will go away. But you don’t want to obviously back off too much. If you’re finding that your binding on the inside of your differential cups then definitely stick with a single Shim per side and even make sure you’re running the Thinner stock shims. Hope this answers your question, if not let me know
@@EastTactics Thank you for your reply, I appreciate the answer. I went and tested a diff yesterday and I found that 1 shim worked each side internally, I just experimented until I got a good tight mesh feeling without any binding. Adding the old the gasket was important to give the correct tolerance. My only concern with the aluminium diff cup is how much thermal expansion will occur at high temperatures.
Yeah you’ll have to let me know how that plays out. I never have upgraded to the aluminum cups. What gaskets were you using before you went back to the stock gasket. Is the stock gasket thinner which allows for less likelihood of binding?
@@EastTactics Back to our conversation, I am using stock Arma gaskets thinking of getting the Tekin gaskets as the diff is leaking from the shaft anyway. I just rebuilt the front diff that I started rebuilding 3 years ago, life got in the way. So I did an inventory. I have the Mugen Seki Shims, 1 per spider gear and One behind the bevel gear inside the cup = perfect mesh inside the Hot Racing Diff cup. FYI the diff cup is 14g and the composite Arrma diff cup is 10g. Now I need top get some rubber protected bearings as my rear diff bearings are starting to go. I had given the car a fairly high speed bashing on grass for at least 6 months. Great fun as the hill allowed or some long graded jumps. I previously wanted to upgrade and strengthen everything that I found was weak. 3-4 years later I'm back and Arma have released the EXB which addresses almost everything that I was in the process of doing. I made custom carbon shock towers, carbon Steering arm with bearings glued in, Steering is super tight. I have almost all hot racing upgrades and I integrated carbon reinforcements across the chassis to make it super tight and handle that bit better. I think that mine will be as strong, just more work. But also more fun.
Sounds awesome! If you’re finding that your differentials are leaking down the shaft it might be because the shaft hole itself has actually gotten a little too big ever so slightly. Overtime especially if you’ve got a slightly bent Dogbone the wiggle ends up making the whole A hairs breath too big. If that’s the case then replacing it with a new main gear will be the solution to get that leak to go away. Sounds like you’ve got a really sick set up. If you ever drop a video on TH-cam of your load out I’d love to see it. Or if you just wanna send me some images or video to my email that would be cool too. If you ever need anything let me know
The work is pretty infrequent, so long as you do it right the first time. And trust me it’s worth it for the quality of these higher end rc. Stick with my vids and you’ll always have a guide. Plus you can message me anytime and I’m happy to help😎👍
@@EastTactics Thanks a bunch!! Looking to get the Arma 6S. Got a cheapy ZD Racing dbx 10 right now and having a blast with this new hobby of mine. Thanks again! :)
@@EastTactics thanks for letting me know for sure as going to try 150000 in my middle diff and maybe 50000 in back and 70000 in the front, is that a good idea let me know cheers gaz
Gav Iscon, I think that could work, what are you currently running? What is your motivation for changing it? I would say that going that thick in the rear has some potential for throwing too much torque to the Diff case As it relates to giving you more traction. You’d probably be fine, because I’ve seen people go up to as high as 80 K in the rear and never complain. The fluids are all really just about testing and finding what works for you and the way you drive to minimize breakages. But if you do find after upping it to 50 K in the rear that you snap a pin or a planetary gear then I would drop back 20k or lower. But this is just my opinion based on my driving style and setup.
Ok thanks for the info I will try a slightly lower cst in the back and see how I get on, wanted to try and stop or cut down on my front tyres ballooning so much heavier in the front will cut this down I've been told, I do a mixture of bashing and high speed of road / woods driving so like u said trail and error thanks again gaz
Hello. I really enjoyed your video. Really useful info. I have 1 question though. Can you reuse the diff gaskets. Or do you have to replace them every time you open the diffs. Thank you
You can reuse them, so long as they’re not damaged, torn etc. Carefully dry them off really well, and you should be fine. I personally am not a huge fan of the stock gaskets, but they work. If you want to upgrade check out eBay. Tekjo gaskets Better Diff Gaskets - [tekjo 1/8 scale diff gaskets on EBAY]
Paul Galaxy, I run 20 K in the rear, 200 K in the center, and 80 K in the front. It’s always recommended to run a lower CST in the rear. You can fluctuate between 200-500k in the center. And between 60 and 100k front. As long as you’re not running too many teeth on your pinion gear (you start tempting breakages when you pass 16 or 17 teeth with the stock motor and ESC) I run 16t and punch setting 6. you shouldn’t break anything. However I also run hardened Pins in my differentials instead of a sloppy stock pins, See my video library. As far as Shims go, there still set up the way I showcase on the video. And they’re doing well.
@@EastTactics Yes for sure I will check out all your video with the Arrma builts, mods and facts... I'm new to Arrma and your videos are helping me to understand them. I been binge watching your videos lately. Thank you for explain and giving good examples on your videos.
Hey, I change my diff fluid in my Typhon 6s with the same fluids you used 20 200k and 60k and when I put my center diff in the wheels wont spin when the rc is on the ground.
So the recommendations that I give are for the Kraton. The typhon is a completely different beast. Stock, the Kraton comes 10,000 CST, 100,000 CST, 10,000 CST, rear to front. On the other hand the typhon comes stock at 7000 CST, 10,000 CST, 7000 CST, rear to front So for the center differential the Typhon recommends 10 times less. That all said it doesn’t necessarily mean your vehicle shouldn’t work at all. I mean on the Kraton people will put 1 million in the center differential, which in that respect it’s literally 10 times what stock recommends. So I don’t see why the typhon getting 10 times what stock recommends should prevent a vehicle from running. Instead I would ask you which of the three differentials after putting them back together and doing a twist test manually with your hands felt off? Or locked up? If all three of your differentials feel smooth and have no locking up issues then I would double check your drivetrain. For the front and rear I will check the match between the differential and the spiral input gear. For your center differential I would double check the mesh between your motor pinion and your crown gear. Or the motor itself and the Pinion. When you say the wheels won’t spin when the vehicle is on the ground what is the motor and pinion doing when you give it gas? Is the motor refusing to spin at all? If your motor is refusing to spin because there’s too much resistance when the tires are touching the ground. Then I would either say there’s something wrong with your motor or those thickness levels are just way too much for the typhon and you need to change them out to closer to what stock recommends. Let me know, I’m really curious what the true issue is here.
When you say "there should be no deviation in smoothness when spinning your diff on your hand" are you saying there is no feeling of the gears (not clicking) but notching together? Should there be any noise when you turn it in your hand? Thanks
By no deviation in smoothness I mean there should be no snagging or catching. You’re going to have a feeling of resistance relative to the level of thickness that you put in the diff. And you’re also going to feel a little bit of a vibration (or just the feel of those teeth moving in and out of each other) However that vibration should remain constant and smooth in the sense that, let’s say over a 60 second duration of back-and-forth back-and-forth there should never be a moment Where you feel a large hiccup in movement, if that makes sense. As far as any sound I don’t recall ever hearing anything because it’s all encased inside of the differential and so there shouldn’t really be any noise per se. if you’re not already doing maintenance on more than one of your differentials it might be a good idea to quickly pull another one out that has the same differential fluid or at least a relative threshold that you know is higher or lower than the one you’re currently working on and get a sense of whether or not your differential in question is too tight.
@@EastTactics awesome my man, I think I got it. Just took taking it apart a few times to make sure I'm good. Think I had a tad too much fluid also. All three done.... Feel like I'm kinda an expert already
Awesome video man quick question for you though. On my version for arrma kraton I bought two new front and rear complete diff and housing and one of the diff is smooth when turning the input shaft but the second or rear diff has a crunchy or tight spot when making one full turn on the input shaft so if I remove the one exterior shim on the ring gear side that one crunchy spot goes away I have two discs that do this same thing, has a tight spot like something is not centered is it best to have it crunchy in one spot or the gear mesh a little bit looser. Hope you know what I mean
Yes... i follow you. So ya. You really want to have a smooth diff when spinning it after you've tighenend everything down. If you run across a crunch area this would be sign where the mesh is too tight. That said...if I had to choose between running a diff that as slightly over tight vs a diff that was slightly loose... I would choose the tight every time. A simular thing happened to me when I completed a diff rebuild and It turned out the shim under the planetary gear was just too thick (it was the bigger mugin sieki shim) so I took it out and went with the stock (much smaller and thinner) shim behind the planetary gear and this got rid of the issue. So I would recommend getting rid of the crunch... but if you really done feel like it... you might be fine just leaving it as is.. and after she's ran for a bit, she might just spin it clean if you know what i mean... its when you put those diffs back together and they can barely move... or the crunch is really bad that you need to worry. if the crunch is very minimal... might be fine. bit if it bothers you... ya... go in and either pull one of the shims around the spider gears ... or find a thinner shim up under the planetary gear.
@@EastTactics thanks for the reply... i totally agree with everything you just said... im talking about spinning the entire diff IN THE HOUSING, not the 2 diff cups..the diff itself works perfect.. its spinning the input shaft so the entire diff spins, is where the crunch is....hard to explain without showing you.. lol but i would rather have the rear and front diff mesh tight then loose... but its perfect for about 3/4 of a turn on the input shaft, then theres a crunchy spot (where if you turn the diff cup, when it gets to the crunchy tight spot it will make the diff actuate).. so what your saying about removing a shim interally the diff from the ring gear, wont that not matter, because the ring gear only screws to the diff cup so far.. you know what i mean... im thinking either the worm gear isnt screwed onto the dup cup and sealed straight... but i took that off and then put it back with the same result... so then i was thinking there was something in the worm gears teeth.. cleaned it and still crunchy.. so then i thought its was in the housing crooked.. nope.. or a bent input shaft... but i have 2 diffs that do the same thing... and this one is brand new never used.. from factory. i know there could be issues from the factory but on 2 of my diffs and a friends rear diff its the same... crunchy in one spot..so your saying keep the stock shim on the external rear diff on the worm gear side and use it with the crunchy spot VS take the external shim out and have it be looser but a good mesh (no chruchy spot)..it sounds to me like something isnt spinning straight.. cause on the 2 kraton front diffsn its perfect.. not crunch and tight mesh.
@@fpvandgasrc4321 ok... I think i may have gotten your first message confused a bit. Its funny cuz everyone has different terms for what they call things. lol for instance, I've never heard the term worm gear, so I dont really know what you mean by that. The one thing I noticed you mentioned a few times in your latest message was the term "external shim". I never cuaght that in your first message so I thought this whole time we were only talking about the internals of your diffs. Meaning once you've tighten up the final four screws to get the ring gear attached you took your hands on both outdrives and started spinning it... and found some snagging issues. But now... i think what your really saying is the issue is not so much the internals... but your having an issue once you've place the completed diff into the diff house and close everything up... you then are experiencing a snag? Am i correct. You must have disconnected the drive shaft running from the motor to the rear to detect this snag correct. reall quick confirm that im on the right page before I expand any further. let me know. thx
@@EastTactics yes correct.. yea everyone calls things different. the ring gear is the worn gear.. lol yes the rear shaft is diconnected and you are correct.. sorry im bad at explaining things.. and the external shim i mean is tekno part#1222 if that helps..
OK so are you saying that no matter what differential you put in your rear end you’re getting the issue? And if that’s not the case then the one that is not giving you the issue is it an older differential? My deduction is that the newer differentials that have perfectly non-worn teeth are giving you the crunchiness at a small spot during rotation. If that is the case then I would reckon that your issue isn’t with the differentials, It’s in your rear end itself. It seems like it’s minor but you may have actually tweaked your rear end housing to such a small degree that it’s almost unnoticeable, Either that or maybe The spiral input gear has a defect on it... have you taken a close look at it? All and all I would still say it’s a good idea to keep the external shim in place. For the 85% of the rotation where it’s not crunchy it’s doing it’s job. Removing the external shim would leave your whole system vulnerable to a lose mesh.
Thanks! It’s been working very well. Been running it for a long time with minimal issues. Absolutely love the platform, specifically the Kraton. I’ve had a ton of new upgrades to my vehicle since the making of this video. Although one of the things differential related that I’m gonna be changing here soon, if I’m going to be adding silicon earplugs into the center differential to see how that impacts the vehicle. I’ll report on exactly what it does and if I like it
@@EastTactics gotcha, I'm new too 6s, I know they came out with the v5 now, but mines the v4, they released it about a month after I got the v4 lol..but good thing is, seems like arrma keeps the same parts like new stuff can be used in older trucks. At least I hope. I'm new so I'm not sure how the diffs should feel or be lol. Trying to learn. Have u ruined any diffs by doing this?
Define what you mean by this! LOL I’m not sure exactly what you’re doing. But I do have another video in the differential category if you haven’t seen it yet it could be pretty useful for you. I do believe that the video that you watched here though is the most comprehensive. I’d be happy to answer any questions that you have, as you know I also run the version four and you are correct that almost everything that the V5 has an even the EXB can be put into the V4. However when it comes to the differentials if you wanted to take it vantage of the EXP differentials you’d have to change out the entire differential. You can’t piece together the four components together with EXP differential components if that makes sense. But as a whole you can certainly swap them out. I haven’t done so yet I’m actually happy with the V4 differentials. They are the same in the v5. Just make sure that you bulletproof them by shimming them up properly, both internally and on the external left side. Which I’m pretty sure I covered in the video. The only real differential troubles that I ran into you and this was a learning experience was after I decided to be overzealous and add a 20 tooth pinion gear to my motor. That was a big mistake, and it was too much for the motor and the ESC. I didn’t have any problems overheating because I’ve added some really good fans to my set up, however 20 T is just way too much for stock components. If you ever want to go Into the 20+ zone regarding the teeth on your pinion, It requires you to upgrade your motor between 1600-1800 KV. And a better ESC designed for those higher torque motors. So I believe the V4 came with a 13 tooth pinion gear stock and then in the packaging there’s a 15 tooth pinion, dubbed the high-speed Pinyon. You can definitely throw in that 15 to Pinyon and not have to worry too much about throwing a fan on your motor. However as soon as you break the threshold of 15 T it’s recommended to get a fan for your motor. I currently run a 16 T and could probably get away with a 17, however 50+ miles an hour Is plenty for me, my true love for the hobby is in the bashing, I find speed running rather dull. A good all-around set up for your differential fluids is 20 K rear 200 to 500 K Center and 80 to 100 K front. However again… I am going to go extreme in the center differential here pretty soon with silicon earplugs, which is a step beyond 1 million differential thickness. Pretty much locks up the differential, but gives it enough play to protect the gearing. Also heard that there’s a good chance I’ll be able to do a standing backflip with the center differential set up this way. We’ll see LOL. I do have another video if you start running into problems breaking the little tiny pans inside your differentials you can order harden steel pins from mcmaster.com, however when I drop down to the 16 T I stop breaking those pins. I’m really crucial things that you’re gonna wanna make sure you take care of which I do have videos on, is making sure that your droop is set Correctly, this protects your shock rod ends. Although it doesn’t hurt upgrade those shock rod into the HD rod ends, or DIY rod ends, both of which if you search in TH-cam for you’ll find videos I’ve created on. Love this hobby brother glad you’re involved! Also disregard all the misspelling, I just let Voice 2text run wild with this one
@@EastTactics thanks for explaining man! Some good people in this hobby! I meant by feeling as in some people said when u turn the outdrives you don't want it to feel smooth you want it to feel kinda notchy, and I was meaning have you stripped any teeth on gears with this shim set up? I haven't yet on stock shims but I wanna do what you did to help save on the wear.
The only great I’ve ever stripped teeth on since shimming everything as per the vid, is the rear input gear. Which I’ve since added a shim to that as well to tighten up its mesh.
I’m happy to answer any questions you have. I had somebody who has a v5 ask me the other day If he should consider switching to limited slip differential’s as well as what sort of recommendations I would make if I had a v5 and the upgrade process...this is what I told him. I myself would not recommend switching to the limited slip differential‘s. For a few reasons, one... the differentials that you currently have are just fine, and the EXB limited slip differential‘s would be an expensive upgrade because you literally have to buy the entire differential including new spiral input gears and everything which would be pricey. Instead I would just focus on bulletproofing the differentials that came with your V5. They are the exact same differentials as the V4 These two vid cover how to bullet proof them th-cam.com/video/0TaUS5HEGRw/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/03Jcis3yJDo/w-d-xo.html Top upgrades for the v5 The Kraton v5 is definitely solid. As far as the only thing that you’re really want to upgrade now, considering she comes packed with a lot of really good in the box upgrades. Are the following. In order of importance. Now don’t feel overwhelmed by all these upgrades, just feel grateful that these things are available and can be assessed overtime. The funnest thing about this hobby is getting out there having fun and when you break something simply buy the upgraded version. Yes I do agree with the philosophy of bash it and then when you break it by the upgraded version. Boring a few exceptions that you showed up right out the gate. The ones that are starred with an Asterix are ones I would seriously consider out the gate. 1.*HD rod ends (or search DIY rod ends Search either on TH-cam and you’ll find my vids on it. Also, making sure your droop is set properly is important to protect your rod ends. Setting droop is another video I have in my library. 2. *Rpm bumper front and back (or if you can find it you could toss on the EXB front bumper, also fits on back with some modding) 3.*Aluminum chassis braces front and rear 4. aluminum servo mount 5. Willie bar (seriously protects your wing mount) 6. Watch my playlist on shock mitigation If you really want to start sending it like insane jumps, 7. M2C chassis 8. 7075 aluminum rear shock tower (M2C) 9. Hot racing Diff houses (Front and rear) 10. M2C rear suspension mounts (rear first) 11. M2C shock standoffs 12. M2C shock caps Diff recommendations- 20 K rear, 200 to 500 K Center, and 80 K front. Again... make sure they’re shimmed correctly both inside and out. See the vids linked above
@@EastTactics I watched some of your stuff the braces are done,exb bumber on and doing droop screws now I just changed my fuilds to 50k cst 300k cst and 20k on the rear to have a feel of it so far I've been trying to work out now for two days why the gearbox was making that noise and its actually normal cant believe it
Before I go and put 20 mill in center diff 1 mill Infront diff and 1/2 mill in back 😂 on my kraton 6s what do you recommend ? I need help bad I can’t make my mind up I do run max6 with 1520 2200kv
I’m actually dropping a video on this topic in the next 48 hours. LOL. What exactly is your ailment. Or what is your motivation? Are you experiencing ballooning in the front end? And what are you currently running? I believe I’ve got some answers for you but I’m curious about the above two questions
@@EastTactics 21t pinion mamba castle 1520 2200kv hobbywing max6 I wanted it for speed but I got a infraction v2 for that so I am turning it back to a basher but I love my cars and I don’t wanna run it until I clean and add diff fluid and all 4 tires if I hold the car in the air and hold full trottle the tires get big and look kinda puff but flat ?
@@EastTactics and I ask people everyone tells me do this do that and I can’t make my mind up some people even say add 20 mill center 1 mill front half a mill back smh
Really for the basher in my opinion it’s all about running extremely thick in the center differential. I’m dropping a video where I finally decided to add in silicon ear plugs to the center differential. And I have to say it completely got rid of my ballooning issue. I was just expecting it to sort of dispersed power more evenly to all four tires instead of getting an exorbitant amount of ballooning in the front end. But what it ended up doing was actually just minimizing my ballooning altogether! I was so pleasantly shocked. As far as your rear differential I’ve always lean toward running the lowest CST there. It comes stock 10,000 CST. However I recommend 20,000 CST. As far as the front end goes when it comes stock also 10,000 CST. I recommend running 80,000 CST. Now as far as the Center goes I was Running 200,000 CST, but again now that my rig weighs over 16 pounds it was begging for a much thicker situation. So now I’m rocking the silicone earplugs (not sure what that equates to as far as 20 million etc). But I absolutely am loving the immediate power. She definitely flops onto her back a lot easier if I’m not careful, but I’m OK with that. Let me put it this way I’m running the stock motor and stock esc and I can easily do a standing backflip now. Love it! I don’t believe you should be running into any cogging issues with your current motor and ESC set up. But if you are with the 21 tooth pinion. Simply drop your pinion size down until the cogging goes away. You should be able to get it off the line without any clicking or stuttering. With my stock motor and stock ESC, I had to dive all the way back down to the stock 13 tooth pinion to get the cogging to go away. But I’m still able to do a standing backflip! So as far as what I would recommend. 20,000 CST, silicon earplugs, 80,000 CST. Back to front.
I have a v3 Talion, mostly ran on the street at high speeds 85 to 100mph on src wheels. I have a spool but what fluid do you recommend for front and rear diff, considering 500k for better traction. Your thoughts Thanks
My guess is your planning to do away with the spool, since your referencing such a high thickness. With that... 500k would definetly do the trick, and seems to be popular choice for speed runners. You might try 1million too and test which provides the results your looking for. I'd probably run 80k/500k/80k. but im far less experienced with maximizing speed runners. Now bashers... thats another story. Also... check out this video - he just hit a PB at 119mph. he's running a spool, and 100k front and Rear. th-cam.com/video/SNbNyyp_Mhk/w-d-xo.html
It said 10,000 in the centre diff on arrmas website is that right as u said it was 100,000 could u let me know what is right as I'm going to change mine soon thanks gaz
Check out any one of my videos, I always leave a link to recommended parts. I have a list called “Arrma Kraton 4s parts”. On that list, I believe near the bottom I recommended a few different hex driver sets some budget ones and some more expensive ones. Check those out.
When you say “it” what do you mean specifically? I looked it up for you and it does look like the Arrma Kraton and the Mojave Share the same diff house (same part number). However their actual differential itself (the cup the spur gear etc.) is a different part number, and must have a slight variance. What I can say however is the same tips in the video should apply across the board for all differentials. Just not the exact parts when it comes to the differential itself. Here is a link to the website where you can look at the blown up schematics www.arrma-rc.com/support/downloads/KRATON/BLX/ALL
Can u give me the name and numbers need them for my 4s kraton that have gear problems with diff and spur gears and input gears Newcansatey i think i spelled it right Texno and number for Texno model numbers for both differentials please and thank diffs ripped apart my input gear and just want to fix the problems same problems my Truck is having those noises then my wheels stop moving sometimes it's slipper Clutch but this Time was my gears when i took it Back to shop the next day the slipper Clutch was tight and just got it out of shop last Friday had to take it Back to shop next day Saturday got 1 test run out of it on the baseball Diamond and grsss
Did you by chance take a look at the description in the video. I have master links that will take you to the products you might be looking for. I run the V4 Kraton, however the diffs are the same as the 4s (i think?). If so... then check out the list titled Arrma V4 Kraton parts". Of course... if im wrong and the diffs on the 4s are completely different... then I wouldn't know which part numbers your in need of.
Great video please respond bought my kraton back in middle of May on been Driving 15 times in Shop with slipper Clutch coming loose 4 times and now gears Need shims and models number my is Troy 4s kraton with 2400kv Motor 2 cooling fans 2 mah5000 14.8 50c number 1 battery number 2 mah5000 14.8 100c Battery and SERVO metal differentials plastic spur gear plastic input gear Slipper clutch Drive shaft metsl i think i want to put shimm in my differentials metal and plastic input gear iam wondering if i should shimm in spur gears i want to put shimm in between input gears and diffs so input gear won't or put All metal gears in my kraton again please respond asap Because probably will be getting my Truck out Today or Saturday just don't want to go through THIS again if i don't have to or my its my driveshaft Maybe
You definitely want to run all metal gears, and you definitely want to have your mesh set correctly as well as properly shimmed. Not only should you research how to properly shim your specific differentials on the interior. You should also make sure the external Area where your differentials are put in, or shimmed as well to minimize side to side slop. If you don’t have proper mesh then you’re a lot more likely to strip teeth. But definitely stay away from plastic gears. Search my library for how to properly shim your differentials. I’m still a little bit unclear as to the mechanics of your vehicle, considering I’ve never dealt with any slipper clutch is or any of the components of older models of Arrma. If you would like to send me pictures of your set up I’d be happy to take a look. RandyEast80@gmail.com
Another great well explained thorough video. You Da BOMB DIGGITY!!
Thank you
Good to know
Swapping out my diff fluid today and this helped me out tremendously! Thanks for another great video!!!
Great to hear! hope all is well my man!
Sub's your channel today after discovering your vids that I found getting my morning dose of arrma/rc YT content. Appreciate you going through the differences between the V1 V2 V3 and V4 diffs, something that can help alot of ppl especially the newer arrma owners who are not aware of the changes Arrma RC's recieve thanks to Hh/arrma truly changing/adding to preexisting versions in order to really provide us with the best possible rtr rigs at the lowest price point. Really explained things very well and this vid goes into my small list of arrma related maintenance vids that I suggest to guys new yo RC/arrma for sure. Thanks for taking the time to thoroughly go through and create such a clear,informative and vital differential vid that I'm sure will help many from the new owners to the guys like myself who own many 1/8 scale 6sblx arrma rigs. Thanks again and keep these vids coming. Cheersa
You spun the rear diff ring in reverse. And the front ring in the forward direction. The continuous wear pattern on the forward drive side of the gear teeth is not the same for an audible setup comparison. Spin both diffs in the forward direction.
Heavier fluid in center diff will send less power to the front wheels when unloaded preventing ballooning more directly than thickening the front fluid. The compromise is the vehicle will tend to wheelie easier under full load. Great video. Thank you for the servo saver bearing information. Best diff video I have seen on the tube. The stock bronze bushing are not ideal.
Interesting, and good to know. Thx for sharing that info. Glad you liked the vid. Yeah next week I plan on tossing some silicon earplugs into my center differential. Heard that it will go along way for preventing ballooning in the front. And also make her do willies more. Might even be able to pull off a standing backflip with the stock motor and ESC. We’ll see, of course I don’t want to tear up my gears either.
No I'm keeping the spool, just wanted your thoughts on front and rear diff fluid
I'd suggest 80k rear and 100k front. 500k in either front or rear would be too thick.
Just ordered a Kraton 6s v5. After watching your videos I had to have an Arrma. Thanks for the awesome content! Subbed!
That’s awesome brother be sure to hit me up whenever you have any questions. I try to answer super quick. Also now that you’re subbed (which thank you by the way) I’ve got all kinds of content that will add wrinkles to your brain and help you out. Welcome to the best hobby ever!
@@EastTactics Thats awesome thank you. I definitely will.
So puts shims in front rear center the fluids are team fluid and All Metal gears the input gears spur gears and center gears mi understanding this Right?
I did put the new shims in, 1 under each big sun gear and 1 on each side of the cross bar, took stock out, put it back together dry, and it dont feel right, very catchy when spinning only 1 out drive. So im guessing take the bigger mugen shims out put stock back in and keep the small mugen shims on crossbar
Ya that makes sense, those big mugen shims for under the sun gear are too thick, I stuck with stock there too.
@@EastTactics thanks for fast reply, actually nice too have a youtuber reply and help lol. That knows what they're doing. 👍
For sure brother, anytime!!
Think I’m gonna join Arrma family. What batteries and charger do you recommend? Thanks :D
Awesome! You’re gonna love the hobby. Really there are so many different brands of batteries and chargers, it’s hard to say. I myself prefer to run with one single 6s battery. Instead of running two separate 3S batteries There simply has half the potential for issues. In my opinion getting a battery that’s got a C rating above 75 at the very least gives you the peace of mind that the burst power the battery offers is legitimate. Many will say though that the C rating is pretty negligible as far as impact on performance. As far as the Brand goes, if you end up getting a spectrum smart battery then options are available for telemetry with the family of products. Otherwise I would just make sure you get a decent size battery, if you go with the single, anything over 5000 mA is fine. Naturally you want to make sure that The connectors that come with your battery will fit your vehicle out of the box so you don’t have to finagle with soldering new connections etc. also… If you’re going to spend the money you might as well spend a little bit extra and get a battery charger that is a duel charger, having the ability to charge two batteries at once will no matter what come in handy down the road.
Your battery and charger purchase a lot of times also comes down to convenience. It’s one of the few things that I actually drove to a hobby store and picked up instead of ordering it online. But you can do either. Here is a link to a video that gives a good overview of just about everything you need to know about chargers and batteries. Even shows the battery charger that I use. In the description of this video you’ll find a link called “the master link“. It’s a large list of products that I’ve sort of pull together into one single list if you scroll far enough through it you’ll find options for battery chargers and batteries from Amazon. Again welcome!
th-cam.com/video/WSALCiKZ7QU/w-d-xo.html
@@EastTactics Wow, thank you for such a detailed reply. So helpful as I’m new to RC’s that aren’t Traxxas and for me the Kraton 6S is better than the Maxx for what I use it for. I’ll have a look at the list, thanks again! 👍
@@EastTactics I also think I’m overly paranoid about LiPo’s as I’ve heard horror stories 👍
Does this apply to the V5 Notorious?
Yes
Just bought a new typhon 6s v5 but i think its strange that they dont shim the diff good enough from factory so the mesh is spot on
True, I’m sure it has something to do with mass production and the variances that happen in assembly line production. Weighed against the cost of incorporating such a fix. And a lot of the reason for tightening up the mesh Happens to be needed as a result of the changes that we make to the vehicle such as adding more weight with upgrades, changing the motor, pinion, Esc etc.
But I still think you’re right, they should fix what seems to be a commonly needed upgrade and incorporate it into theirmanufacturing.
@@EastTactics thanks for your reply. It makes sense. I get the car tomorrow and then i will keep my eye on the diffs greetings from Denmark
Awesome, welcome to my channel. Always here to help
@@EastTactics so nice 😉
@@EastTactics hi again east tactics got my car yesturday just wonder why the antenna doesnt sit where the hole in the body is? 😀
Good video thank you, When you changed to the Hot Racing Diff cups, did you reduce the shims back to one shim for each one of the 4 bevel gears? I found the internal meshing a little too tight with 2x 2 and 2x 1
So to make sure we’re talking about the same thing here. I’m actually not running the actual hot racing differential cups themselves. I did switch over to the hot racing differential housings.
Regarding the external shim on the left side (outside of the bearing) I still was able to fit two in there. But it is actually different for every vehicle. Ultimately just wanna make sure there’s no side to side slop.
Now regarding the internals of the differential cup itself. Regarding the spider gears. I found that the mugen seiki shims are actually thicker than the stock ones so yes I only run one shim per side. Instead of the two, one, two combo.
I have also found after tightening everything down if you go too tight with your four screws that lock down the main differential gear sometimes you get some binding. Often times you can just very lightly back off on those four screws and that will go away. But you don’t want to obviously back off too much. If you’re finding that your binding on the inside of your differential cups then definitely stick with a single Shim per side and even make sure you’re running the Thinner stock shims.
Hope this answers your question, if not let me know
@@EastTactics Thank you for your reply, I appreciate the answer. I went and tested a diff yesterday and I found that 1 shim worked each side internally, I just experimented until I got a good tight mesh feeling without any binding. Adding the old the gasket was important to give the correct tolerance. My only concern with the aluminium diff cup is how much thermal expansion will occur at high temperatures.
Yeah you’ll have to let me know how that plays out. I never have upgraded to the aluminum cups. What gaskets were you using before you went back to the stock gasket. Is the stock gasket thinner which allows for less likelihood of binding?
@@EastTactics Back to our conversation, I am using stock Arma gaskets thinking of getting the Tekin gaskets as the diff is leaking from the shaft anyway. I just rebuilt the front diff that I started rebuilding 3 years ago, life got in the way. So I did an inventory. I have the Mugen Seki Shims, 1 per spider gear and One behind the bevel gear inside the cup = perfect mesh inside the Hot Racing Diff cup. FYI the diff cup is 14g and the composite Arrma diff cup is 10g. Now I need top get some rubber protected bearings as my rear diff bearings are starting to go. I had given the car a fairly high speed bashing on grass for at least 6 months. Great fun as the hill allowed or some long graded jumps.
I previously wanted to upgrade and strengthen everything that I found was weak. 3-4 years later I'm back and Arma have released the EXB which addresses almost everything that I was in the process of doing. I made custom carbon shock towers, carbon Steering arm with bearings glued in, Steering is super tight. I have almost all hot racing upgrades and I integrated carbon reinforcements across the chassis to make it super tight and handle that bit better. I think that mine will be as strong, just more work. But also more fun.
Sounds awesome! If you’re finding that your differentials are leaking down the shaft it might be because the shaft hole itself has actually gotten a little too big ever so slightly. Overtime especially if you’ve got a slightly bent Dogbone the wiggle ends up making the whole A hairs breath too big. If that’s the case then replacing it with a new main gear will be the solution to get that leak to go away. Sounds like you’ve got a really sick set up.
If you ever drop a video on TH-cam of your load out I’d love to see it. Or if you just wanna send me some images or video to my email that would be cool too. If you ever need anything let me know
Thanks for posting. Really helpful!
Very informative. Only 1 thing. I tuned in to find out about how much diff. fluid is used to fill cup.
Great question, the typical container (found here) amzn.to/2WHyz2q
Would likely fill up a diff cup four or five times.
500k wheelies great.
Im thinking of getting a RC car but god damn Im no engineer. Is it expected to have to do this once a while?
The work is pretty infrequent, so long as you do it right the first time. And trust me it’s worth it for the quality of these higher end rc. Stick with my vids and you’ll always have a guide. Plus you can message me anytime and I’m happy to help😎👍
@@EastTactics Thanks a bunch!! Looking to get the Arma 6S. Got a cheapy ZD Racing dbx 10 right now and having a blast with this new hobby of mine. Thanks again! :)
Anybtime
Who makes your stand
amzn.to/2KYchGC
Thanks for your videos very helpful
Anytime :)
Thanks for letting me know
@@EastTactics thanks for letting me know for sure as going to try 150000 in my middle diff and maybe 50000 in back and 70000 in the front, is that a good idea let me know cheers gaz
Gav Iscon, I think that could work, what are you currently running? What is your motivation for changing it?
I would say that going that thick in the rear has some potential for throwing too much torque to the Diff case As it relates to giving you more traction.
You’d probably be fine, because I’ve seen people go up to as high as 80 K in the rear and never complain. The fluids are all really just about testing and finding what works for you and the way you drive to minimize breakages.
But if you do find after upping it to 50 K in the rear that you snap a pin or a planetary gear then I would drop back 20k or lower.
But this is just my opinion based on my driving style and setup.
Ok thanks for the info I will try a slightly lower cst in the back and see how I get on, wanted to try and stop or cut down on my front tyres ballooning so much heavier in the front will cut this down I've been told, I do a mixture of bashing and high speed of road / woods driving so like u said trail and error thanks again gaz
Hello. I really enjoyed your video. Really useful info. I have 1 question though. Can you reuse the diff gaskets. Or do you have to replace them every time you open the diffs. Thank you
You can reuse them, so long as they’re not damaged, torn etc. Carefully dry them off really well, and you should be fine. I personally am not a huge fan of the stock gaskets, but they work.
If you want to upgrade check out eBay. Tekjo gaskets
Better Diff Gaskets - [tekjo 1/8 scale diff gaskets on EBAY]
@@EastTactics thank you so much.
Another great video. Great advice. Can you please tell me what weight diff you use? Have you seen any shim issues with your diff weight setup?
Paul Galaxy, I run 20 K in the rear, 200 K in the center, and 80 K in the front. It’s always recommended to run a lower CST in the rear. You can fluctuate between 200-500k in the center. And between 60 and 100k front. As long as you’re not running too many teeth on your pinion gear (you start tempting breakages when you pass 16 or 17 teeth with the stock motor and ESC) I run 16t and punch setting 6. you shouldn’t break anything. However I also run hardened Pins in my differentials instead of a sloppy stock pins, See my video library. As far as Shims go, there still set up the way I showcase on the video. And they’re doing well.
@@EastTactics Yes for sure I will check out all your video with the Arrma builts, mods and facts... I'm new to Arrma and your videos are helping me to understand them. I been binge watching your videos lately. Thank you for explain and giving good examples on your videos.
Paul Galaxy, my pleasure
Hey, I change my diff fluid in my Typhon 6s with the same fluids you used 20 200k and 60k and when I put my center diff in the wheels wont spin when the rc is on the ground.
So the recommendations that I give are for the Kraton.
The typhon is a completely different beast.
Stock, the Kraton comes 10,000 CST, 100,000 CST, 10,000 CST, rear to front.
On the other hand the typhon comes stock at 7000 CST, 10,000 CST, 7000 CST, rear to front
So for the center differential the Typhon recommends 10 times less.
That all said it doesn’t necessarily mean your vehicle shouldn’t work at all. I mean on the Kraton people will put 1 million in the center differential, which in that respect it’s literally 10 times what stock recommends. So I don’t see why the typhon getting 10 times what stock recommends should prevent a vehicle from running.
Instead I would ask you which of the three differentials after putting them back together and doing a twist test manually with your hands felt off? Or locked up?
If all three of your differentials feel smooth and have no locking up issues then I would double check your drivetrain. For the front and rear I will check the match between the differential and the spiral input gear. For your center differential I would double check the mesh between your motor pinion and your crown gear. Or the motor itself and the Pinion.
When you say the wheels won’t spin when the vehicle is on the ground what is the motor and pinion doing when you give it gas? Is the motor refusing to spin at all?
If your motor is refusing to spin because there’s too much resistance when the tires are touching the ground. Then I would either say there’s something wrong with your motor or those thickness levels are just way too much for the typhon and you need to change them out to closer to what stock recommends.
Let me know, I’m really curious what the true issue is here.
When you say "there should be no deviation in smoothness when spinning your diff on your hand" are you saying there is no feeling of the gears (not clicking) but notching together? Should there be any noise when you turn it in your hand?
Thanks
By no deviation in smoothness I mean there should be no snagging or catching. You’re going to have a feeling of resistance relative to the level of thickness that you put in the diff. And you’re also going to feel a little bit of a vibration (or just the feel of those teeth moving in and out of each other) However that vibration should remain constant and smooth in the sense that, let’s say over a 60 second duration of back-and-forth back-and-forth there should never be a moment Where you feel a large hiccup in movement, if that makes sense. As far as any sound I don’t recall ever hearing anything because it’s all encased inside of the differential and so there shouldn’t really be any noise per se.
if you’re not already doing maintenance on more than one of your differentials it might be a good idea to quickly pull another one out that has the same differential fluid or at least a relative threshold that you know is higher or lower than the one you’re currently working on and get a sense of whether or not your differential in question is too tight.
@@EastTactics awesome my man, I think I got it. Just took taking it apart a few times to make sure I'm good. Think I had a tad too much fluid also.
All three done.... Feel like I'm kinda an expert already
Awesome video man quick question for you though. On my version for arrma kraton I bought two new front and rear complete diff and housing and one of the diff is smooth when turning the input shaft but the second or rear diff has a crunchy or tight spot when making one full turn on the input shaft so if I remove the one exterior shim on the ring gear side that one crunchy spot goes away I have two discs that do this same thing, has a tight spot like something is not centered is it best to have it crunchy in one spot or the gear mesh a little bit looser. Hope you know what I mean
Yes... i follow you.
So ya. You really want to have a smooth diff when spinning it after you've tighenend everything down. If you run across a crunch area this would be sign where the mesh is too tight.
That said...if I had to choose between running a diff that as slightly over tight vs a diff that was slightly loose... I would choose the tight every time.
A simular thing happened to me when I completed a diff rebuild and It turned out the shim under the planetary gear was just too thick (it was the bigger mugin sieki shim) so I took it out and went with the stock (much smaller and thinner) shim behind the planetary gear and this got rid of the issue.
So I would recommend getting rid of the crunch... but if you really done feel like it... you might be fine just leaving it as is.. and after she's ran for a bit, she might just spin it clean if you know what i mean... its when you put those diffs back together and they can barely move... or the crunch is really bad that you need to worry. if the crunch is very minimal... might be fine. bit if it bothers you... ya... go in and either pull one of the shims around the spider gears ... or find a thinner shim up under the planetary gear.
@@EastTactics thanks for the reply... i totally agree with everything you just said... im talking about spinning the entire diff IN THE HOUSING, not the 2 diff cups..the diff itself works perfect.. its spinning the input shaft so the entire diff spins, is where the crunch is....hard to explain without showing you.. lol but i would rather have the rear and front diff mesh tight then loose... but its perfect for about 3/4 of a turn on the input shaft, then theres a crunchy spot (where if you turn the diff cup, when it gets to the crunchy tight spot it will make the diff actuate).. so what your saying about removing a shim interally the diff from the ring gear, wont that not matter, because the ring gear only screws to the diff cup so far.. you know what i mean... im thinking either the worm gear isnt screwed onto the dup cup and sealed straight... but i took that off and then put it back with the same result... so then i was thinking there was something in the worm gears teeth.. cleaned it and still crunchy.. so then i thought its was in the housing crooked.. nope.. or a bent input shaft... but i have 2 diffs that do the same thing... and this one is brand new never used.. from factory. i know there could be issues from the factory but on 2 of my diffs and a friends rear diff its the same... crunchy in one spot..so your saying keep the stock shim on the external rear diff on the worm gear side and use it with the crunchy spot VS take the external shim out and have it be looser but a good mesh (no chruchy spot)..it sounds to me like something isnt spinning straight.. cause on the 2 kraton front diffsn its perfect.. not crunch and tight mesh.
@@fpvandgasrc4321
ok... I think i may have gotten your first message confused a bit. Its funny cuz everyone has different terms for what they call things. lol for instance, I've never heard the term worm gear, so I dont really know what you mean by that.
The one thing I noticed you mentioned a few times in your latest message was the term "external shim". I never cuaght that in your first message so I thought this whole time we were only talking about the internals of your diffs. Meaning once you've tighten up the final four screws to get the ring gear attached you took your hands on both outdrives and started spinning it... and found some snagging issues.
But now... i think what your really saying is the issue is not so much the internals... but your having an issue once you've place the completed diff into the diff house and close everything up... you then are experiencing a snag? Am i correct. You must have disconnected the drive shaft running from the motor to the rear to detect this snag correct.
reall quick confirm that im on the right page before I expand any further. let me know. thx
@@EastTactics yes correct.. yea everyone calls things different. the ring gear is the worn gear.. lol yes the rear shaft is diconnected and you are correct.. sorry im bad at explaining things.. and the external shim i mean is tekno part#1222 if that helps..
OK so are you saying that no matter what differential you put in your rear end you’re getting the issue? And if that’s not the case then the one that is not giving you the issue is it an older differential?
My deduction is that the newer differentials that have perfectly non-worn teeth are giving you the crunchiness at a small spot during rotation.
If that is the case then I would reckon that your issue isn’t with the differentials, It’s in your rear end itself. It seems like it’s minor but you may have actually tweaked your rear end housing to such a small degree that it’s almost unnoticeable,
Either that or maybe The spiral input gear has a defect on it... have you taken a close look at it? All and all I would still say it’s a good idea to keep the external shim in place. For the 85% of the rotation where it’s not crunchy it’s doing it’s job. Removing the external shim would leave your whole system vulnerable to a lose mesh.
Nice! Very useful, how is this set up working for you?
Thanks! It’s been working very well. Been running it for a long time with minimal issues. Absolutely love the platform, specifically the Kraton. I’ve had a ton of new upgrades to my vehicle since the making of this video. Although one of the things differential related that I’m gonna be changing here soon, if I’m going to be adding silicon earplugs into the center differential to see how that impacts the vehicle. I’ll report on exactly what it does and if I like it
@@EastTactics gotcha, I'm new too 6s, I know they came out with the v5 now, but mines the v4, they released it about a month after I got the v4 lol..but good thing is, seems like arrma keeps the same parts like new stuff can be used in older trucks. At least I hope. I'm new so I'm not sure how the diffs should feel or be lol. Trying to learn. Have u ruined any diffs by doing this?
Define what you mean by this! LOL I’m not sure exactly what you’re doing. But I do have another video in the differential category if you haven’t seen it yet it could be pretty useful for you. I do believe that the video that you watched here though is the most comprehensive. I’d be happy to answer any questions that you have, as you know I also run the version four and you are correct that almost everything that the V5 has an even the EXB can be put into the V4. However when it comes to the differentials if you wanted to take it vantage of the EXP differentials you’d have to change out the entire differential. You can’t piece together the four components together with EXP differential components if that makes sense. But as a whole you can certainly swap them out. I haven’t done so yet I’m actually happy with the V4 differentials. They are the same in the v5. Just make sure that you bulletproof them by shimming them up properly, both internally and on the external left side. Which I’m pretty sure I covered in the video.
The only real differential troubles that I ran into you and this was a learning experience was after I decided to be overzealous and add a 20 tooth pinion gear to my motor. That was a big mistake, and it was too much for the motor and the ESC. I didn’t have any problems overheating because I’ve added some really good fans to my set up, however 20 T is just way too much for stock components. If you ever want to go Into the 20+ zone regarding the teeth on your pinion, It requires you to upgrade your motor between 1600-1800 KV. And a better ESC designed for those higher torque motors.
So I believe the V4 came with a 13 tooth pinion gear stock and then in the packaging there’s a 15 tooth pinion, dubbed the high-speed Pinyon. You can definitely throw in that 15 to Pinyon and not have to worry too much about throwing a fan on your motor. However as soon as you break the threshold of 15 T it’s recommended to get a fan for your motor. I currently run a 16 T and could probably get away with a 17, however 50+ miles an hour Is plenty for me, my true love for the hobby is in the bashing, I find speed running rather dull.
A good all-around set up for your differential fluids is 20 K rear 200 to 500 K Center and 80 to 100 K front. However again… I am going to go extreme in the center differential here pretty soon with silicon earplugs, which is a step beyond 1 million differential thickness. Pretty much locks up the differential, but gives it enough play to protect the gearing. Also heard that there’s a good chance I’ll be able to do a standing backflip with the center differential set up this way. We’ll see LOL. I do have another video if you start running into problems breaking the little tiny pans inside your differentials you can order harden steel pins from mcmaster.com, however when I drop down to the 16 T I stop breaking those pins.
I’m really crucial things that you’re gonna wanna make sure you take care of which I do have videos on, is making sure that your droop is set Correctly, this protects your shock rod ends. Although it doesn’t hurt upgrade those shock rod into the HD rod ends, or DIY rod ends, both of which if you search in TH-cam for you’ll find videos I’ve created on. Love this hobby brother glad you’re involved!
Also disregard all the misspelling, I just let Voice 2text run wild with this one
@@EastTactics thanks for explaining man! Some good people in this hobby! I meant by feeling as in some people said when u turn the outdrives you don't want it to feel smooth you want it to feel kinda notchy, and I was meaning have you stripped any teeth on gears with this shim set up? I haven't yet on stock shims but I wanna do what you did to help save on the wear.
The only great I’ve ever stripped teeth on since shimming everything as per the vid, is the rear input gear. Which I’ve since added a shim to that as well to tighten up its mesh.
Werry good video👍
matad, I really appreciate that thank you! If you ever need anything just let me know. happy to help
what type of grease do you use for the outside of the Dif ?
Great question 😁
th-cam.com/video/oByzgDN0gTA/w-d-xo.html
So there is actually supposed to be a gear noise when you spin the diff I thought there was something wrong with mine
👍
@@EastTactics I got told lots of things could be wrong I have the v5 all I've done is change the fuild
I’m happy to answer any questions you have. I had somebody who has a v5 ask me the other day If he should consider switching to limited slip differential’s as well as what sort of recommendations I would make if I had a v5 and the upgrade process...this is what I told him.
I myself would not recommend switching to the limited slip differential‘s. For a few reasons, one... the differentials that you currently have are just fine, and the EXB limited slip differential‘s would be an expensive upgrade because you literally have to buy the entire differential including new spiral input gears and everything which would be pricey.
Instead I would just focus on bulletproofing the differentials that came with your V5. They are the exact same differentials as the V4
These two vid cover how to bullet proof them
th-cam.com/video/0TaUS5HEGRw/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/03Jcis3yJDo/w-d-xo.html
Top upgrades for the v5
The Kraton v5 is definitely solid. As far as the only thing that you’re really want to upgrade now, considering she comes packed with a lot of really good in the box upgrades. Are the following. In order of importance.
Now don’t feel overwhelmed by all these upgrades, just feel grateful that these things are available and can be assessed overtime. The funnest thing about this hobby is getting out there having fun and when you break something simply buy the upgraded version. Yes I do agree with the philosophy of bash it and then when you break it by the upgraded version. Boring a few exceptions that you showed up right out the gate.
The ones that are starred with an Asterix are ones I would seriously consider out the gate.
1.*HD rod ends (or search DIY rod ends
Search either on TH-cam and you’ll find my vids on it. Also, making sure your droop is set properly is important to protect your rod ends. Setting droop is another video I have in my library.
2. *Rpm bumper front and back (or if you can find it you could toss on the EXB front bumper, also fits on back with some modding)
3.*Aluminum chassis braces front and rear
4. aluminum servo mount
5. Willie bar (seriously protects your wing mount)
6. Watch my playlist on shock mitigation
If you really want to start sending it like insane jumps,
7. M2C chassis
8. 7075 aluminum rear shock tower (M2C)
9. Hot racing Diff houses (Front and rear)
10. M2C rear suspension mounts (rear first)
11. M2C shock standoffs
12. M2C shock caps
Diff recommendations- 20 K rear, 200 to 500 K Center, and 80 K front. Again... make sure they’re shimmed correctly both inside and out. See the vids linked above
@@EastTactics I watched some of your stuff the braces are done,exb bumber on and doing droop screws now I just changed my fuilds to 50k cst 300k cst and 20k on the rear to have a feel of it so far I've been trying to work out now for two days why the gearbox was making that noise and its actually normal cant believe it
😂😆 glad I could be of help😎👍
Before I go and put 20 mill in center diff 1 mill Infront diff and 1/2 mill in back 😂 on my kraton 6s what do you recommend ? I need help bad I can’t make my mind up I do run max6 with 1520 2200kv
I’m actually dropping a video on this topic in the next 48 hours. LOL. What exactly is your ailment. Or what is your motivation?
Are you experiencing ballooning in the front end? And what are you currently running? I believe I’ve got some answers for you but I’m curious about the above two questions
@@EastTactics 21t pinion mamba castle 1520 2200kv hobbywing max6 I wanted it for speed but I got a infraction v2 for that so I am turning it back to a basher but I love my cars and I don’t wanna run it until I clean and add diff fluid and all 4 tires if I hold the car in the air and hold full trottle the tires get big and look kinda puff but flat ?
@@EastTactics and I ask people everyone tells me do this do that and I can’t make my mind up some people even say add 20 mill center 1 mill front half a mill back smh
Really for the basher in my opinion it’s all about running extremely thick in the center differential. I’m dropping a video where I finally decided to add in silicon ear plugs to the center differential. And I have to say it completely got rid of my ballooning issue. I was just expecting it to sort of dispersed power more evenly to all four tires instead of getting an exorbitant amount of ballooning in the front end. But what it ended up doing was actually just minimizing my ballooning altogether! I was so pleasantly shocked. As far as your rear differential I’ve always lean toward running the lowest CST there. It comes stock 10,000 CST. However I recommend 20,000 CST. As far as the front end goes when it comes stock also 10,000 CST. I recommend running 80,000 CST. Now as far as the Center goes I was Running 200,000 CST, but again now that my rig weighs over 16 pounds it was begging for a much thicker situation. So now I’m rocking the silicone earplugs (not sure what that equates to as far as 20 million etc). But I absolutely am loving the immediate power. She definitely flops onto her back a lot easier if I’m not careful, but I’m OK with that.
Let me put it this way I’m running the stock motor and stock esc and I can easily do a standing backflip now. Love it!
I don’t believe you should be running into any cogging issues with your current motor and ESC set up. But if you are with the 21 tooth pinion. Simply drop your pinion size down until the cogging goes away. You should be able to get it off the line without any clicking or stuttering.
With my stock motor and stock ESC, I had to dive all the way back down to the stock 13 tooth pinion to get the cogging to go away. But I’m still able to do a standing backflip! So as far as what I would recommend. 20,000 CST, silicon earplugs, 80,000 CST. Back to front.
@@EastTactics ok thanks I’m gonna work on that thanks for the info I’ll be watching that video
I have a v3 Talion, mostly ran on the street at high speeds 85 to 100mph on src wheels. I have a spool but what fluid do you recommend for front and rear diff, considering 500k for better traction. Your thoughts Thanks
corey young, Are you planning to bash now or continue speed running, and what do you mean by a spool?
I plan on speed running only, I have a spool from a limitless. Sometimes it gets loose when I get in it hard. Wondering if 500k would help.
My guess is your planning to do away with the spool, since your referencing such a high thickness. With that... 500k would definetly do the trick, and seems to be popular choice for speed runners. You might try 1million too and test which provides the results your looking for. I'd probably run 80k/500k/80k. but im far less experienced with maximizing speed runners. Now bashers... thats another story.
Also... check out this video - he just hit a PB at 119mph. he's running a spool, and 100k front and Rear.
th-cam.com/video/SNbNyyp_Mhk/w-d-xo.html
It said 10,000 in the centre diff on arrmas website is that right as u said it was 100,000 could u let me know what is right as I'm going to change mine soon thanks gaz
Gav Iscon, for the Kraton 6s, stock it comes
Diffs
Front - 10,000cst
Center - 100,000cst
Rear - 10,000cst
Can you mix diff fluids viscosity to get an average viscosity? Like a 1:1 ratio of 200k and 500k to get 350k?
Yes
@@EastTactics ty
What kind of Tools mi going to need to take apart All this i heard 3 2mm little screwdriver. Yes or no?
Check out any one of my videos, I always leave a link to recommended parts. I have a list called “Arrma Kraton 4s parts”.
On that list, I believe near the bottom I recommended a few different hex driver sets some budget ones and some more expensive ones. Check those out.
IS East Tactics in Toronto or outside Toronto
?
I’m in Utah
Man why r these good places in THE states?
I thought v3 had shims stock too?
Most don’t... worth checking. Course if you’re not having any differential problems then if it ain’t broken don’t fix it LOL.
Does it also apply to the Mojave 6s?
When you say “it” what do you mean specifically?
I looked it up for you and it does look like the Arrma Kraton and the Mojave Share the same diff house (same part number).
However their actual differential itself (the cup the spur gear etc.) is a different part number, and must have a slight variance.
What I can say however is the same tips in the video should apply across the board for all differentials. Just not the exact parts when it comes to the differential itself. Here is a link to the website where you can look at the blown up schematics
www.arrma-rc.com/support/downloads/KRATON/BLX/ALL
@@EastTactics
By "it" i mean the operation....
Thx again..
.... And the vids are just great 🖒
Can u give me the name and numbers need them for my 4s kraton that have gear problems with diff and spur gears and input gears Newcansatey i think i spelled it right Texno and number for Texno model numbers for both differentials please and thank diffs ripped apart my input gear and just want to fix the problems same problems my Truck is having those noises then my wheels stop moving sometimes it's slipper Clutch but this Time was my gears when i took it Back to shop the next day the slipper Clutch was tight and just got it out of shop last Friday had to take it Back to shop next day Saturday got 1 test run out of it on the baseball Diamond and grsss
No hard. Running
Did you by chance take a look at the description in the video. I have master links that will take you to the products you might be looking for. I run the V4 Kraton, however the diffs are the same as the 4s (i think?). If so... then check out the list titled Arrma V4 Kraton parts". Of course... if im wrong and the diffs on the 4s are completely different... then I wouldn't know which part numbers your in need of.
Great video please respond bought my kraton back in middle of May on been Driving 15 times in Shop with slipper Clutch coming loose 4 times and now gears Need shims and models number my is Troy 4s kraton with 2400kv Motor 2 cooling fans 2 mah5000 14.8 50c number 1 battery number 2 mah5000 14.8 100c Battery and SERVO metal differentials plastic spur gear plastic input gear Slipper clutch Drive shaft metsl i think i want to put shimm in my differentials metal and plastic input gear iam wondering if i should shimm in spur gears i want to put shimm in between input gears and diffs so input gear won't or put All metal gears in my kraton again please respond asap Because probably will be getting my Truck out Today or Saturday just don't want to go through THIS again if i don't have to or my its my driveshaft Maybe
You definitely want to run all metal gears, and you definitely want to have your mesh set correctly as well as properly shimmed. Not only should you research how to properly shim your specific differentials on the interior. You should also make sure the external Area where your differentials are put in, or shimmed as well to minimize side to side slop. If you don’t have proper mesh then you’re a lot more likely to strip teeth. But definitely stay away from plastic gears. Search my library for how to properly shim your differentials. I’m still a little bit unclear as to the mechanics of your vehicle, considering I’ve never dealt with any slipper clutch is or any of the components of older models of Arrma. If you would like to send me pictures of your set up I’d be happy to take a look. RandyEast80@gmail.com
No i missed that part of video
Please help me
Glad to.
What’s your concern?
My name is Sal young if you could message me in face book and help me with my kraton please I’m having really bad binding isuues
👍