I just want to thank you for your videos. The majority of the trades people in Australia install pavers incorrectly, and I have recently been a victim of a faulty install which cost me a lot of money. I will endeavour to fix it all myself.
No problem, I'm sorry to hear that you had issues with your contractor. Unfortunately there are many paver installers that are not doing things correctly, USA is no exception to that for sure.... Good luck on the repairs, I hope it all works out ✌
I like and believe in this system. I’m about to take on my 1200sq ft patio in CT. Most of my properties I’ve had to deal with water issues and already confident it’s the best way to keep water flowing the way it should. A place to travel and away from the house. Open base will be a new language moving forward. These flash floods we all are facing causes all the sand base patios to wash out or create sink holes.
This system will not fail you, especially in CT. I have over 150 installs with this method just above you in Massachusetts and they are aging very well. Your project will hold up to water just find if you use it. Good luck! ✌
I'm hooked. Absolutely beautiful job. I note that the crushed stone extended beyond the paver edge eliminates the need for the plastic paver edging material. It never works anyway and ends up looking unsightly.
Thank you, We do excavate 6-8 inches farther on all sides to help prevent the edges from sinking. We then concrete the edges to lock everything together. I hate that plastic edging as well, and I can't use it anyway because the loose base stone will not hold the spikes strong enough. Here is a video I made about how I concrete the edges 👉th-cam.com/video/_X1tCmMJQqk/w-d-xo.html
@TheChristianHardscaper I found your videos while searching for my own first-time DIY walkway and I followed your system to a T. It looks beautiful I can’t believe I pulled it off. Your techniques and video content are amazing man… thank you so much.
Awesome video, I like your easy going narrative and explanation. Please keep up the professional workmanship and interesting content. Thank you from Toronto, Ontario!
Hey Man just wanted to say thanks for putting these videos together. I've been studying up a bit on patio builds and your videos really tied it all together for me. On vacation last week I spent a good amount of time streaming your vids through my TV. I'm building an outbuilding in the back yard and when done I want to finish off with a nice paver patio and walkways. Can't wait to do it now that I have a better clue on how to get pro results. Thanks!
Would this system double as a French drain of sorts, especially if it’s all sloped towards a catch basin with a pump? It would probably work even better if we don’t use the finish sand on top, but not sure if the bricks would move around more or look bad without sand. Great work man! I want to do this system in Washington where we get plenty of water.
You can definitely use this method to tie into a french drain. And with this base, even if you use the polymeric sand you shouldn't have a problem with drainage. The best thing you can do is make a stone bed / apron around the edges that ties into the base stone. Then all the surface water will drain into the apron and find its way into the drain underneath.
Love your channel - I built a paver patio about 20 years ago on clay soil and wish I had your channel. I recently moved close to the beach and have sandy soil, what is the best way to prepare the base so the pavers do not shift on the sandy soil? Thanks again for the videos.
Hey there, I appreciate the support! I use the same base prep method as I usually do for sandy sub soil. Sandy soil may seem like it will shift easily but it won't once you are backfilled and the pavers are laid. You don't need to dig any deeper or do anything additional than what I typically do on all projects.
Awesome new sub here. Thanks for the great content. Planning on doing something close to this on my property. And hopefully over the next couple years adding this work to my business little by little.
Nice, and my pleasure! I have really been enjoying making these videos. It is a great service to add to your business. Fun work and very rewarding. Good luck with your projects and your business! ✌
Great job , looks great . I almost watch all your videos anyway where can u get the borders stone Holland color like dark gray like you pick I don't see that color in store. Thanks u!
These particular border pavers on this project where made by (Genest) and the style is called (Eastern Bay) with a color tone of (Charcoal). Depending on the manufacturer you choose for pavers they pretty much all have different names…
Great video. Anyone every tell you that you look like Ben Affleck? Quick question: is using 3/4" and 3/8" limestone okay for a sub base and base? I see you're using 3/4" granite. Does the chipstone have to be granite or can it be limestone? Thanks very much!
Thank you, and yes I have heard it a few times here on TH-cam, makes me laugh every time! LOL I never seen a resemblance until I got a few comments about it.... And to answer your question, yes. You can use crushed limestone for sure. Up here in Massachusetts, we have more granite and bluestone than limestone. So we use what is most common. Although, if you are doing a driveway, I recommend granite because it is a stronger stone and will hold up better over time than limestone. ✌
It is 3/4 inch clean, crushed stone. Check out the video before this one that explains how we backfill. here is the link to that video👉th-cam.com/video/fDe3tMZQY5o/w-d-xo.html
Yes they will, but their warranty relies on more than just the bedding material. So you need to make sure the entire install lines up with their methods they cover. Most manufacturers are standing by open grade and are pushing it more and more.
I’m doing my research on creating a foundation for a barn shed to convert into a tiny home. Of course it would have to sit on concrete blocks but south this be a good foundation underneath? Hope I e explained this well enough
Hey buddy. I am doing a paver walking path in front of my house. I did a base of 3/4 clean crushed stone. However I live pretty remote and don't have access to 3/8 chip. My options are basically more 3/4 clean or i have access to concrete sand. What is your suggestion?I also realize i over did my compaction and grading. I graded my base dirt and compacted it and did the same for my 3/4" rock. Oh well i guess.
Damn, sorry to hear that. So you can use the concrete sand, but you need to lay fabric over the 3/4 clean first and then lay the sand so it does not migrate into the stone. That will work out if you can't find the chip stone. ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper thanks man! Much appreciated. I will probably do the concrete sand as it is easy for me to get. Thanks for the tip of making sure I have fabric down so it doesn't leach into the rock!
I've watched a few videos on pavers and they all use sand as the base under pavers, how come your using stones and is that based on the weather in your area?
The sand and dense grade gravel is a traditional way of base prep for pavers. I use a method called (Open Grade Base). It is designed for permeable paver applications but is excellent for non permeable paver applications as well. Here in Massachusetts, drainage is key to a long lasting project. Dense grade and sand holds onto water like a sponge, Which slowly deteriorates the pavers and cause a lot of problems when winter comes and the base material freezes, causing heaving and sinking. The open grade base is a method that a lot of contractors have been switching to in the past few years. I switched over 4 years ago and will never go back to the traditional dense grade / sand method. It has been proven to cause many different types of failures for paver projects. I have plenty of videos on my channel explaining it in more detail. Here is a video about the base material and how to backfill with it👉th-cam.com/video/aSoi3EI__Rc/w-d-xo.html Here is a video on the bedding material and how to screed with it👉th-cam.com/video/Y5l7xLCZeyk/w-d-xo.html
I struggle with getting my base consistently flat/pitched, especially larger areas. How close do you get it? How do you get it so flat? Just brute force with multiple string lines + measuring?
Getting the base stone to the right slope can be difficult for sure. Setting lines and measuring is a great way to do it. But I typically just rake and use my screed pipes to check the grade. You just need to lay the pipes down and check the slope with the level you are using
@@TheChristianHardscaper awesome thanks! We completed our first small project this weekend based partly on help from your videos! Turned out great! Only struggle I had was how to keep the polymeric sand in the joints at the outer edges... Even with restraint it would only fill so close to the edge without spilling out. I'm thinking after back grading I can go back and add a little more at the edges
Nice! And that is a common thing, Most border pavers don't get filled with poly sand all the way to the edge, it pills over the concrete edge on the last inch or so. Not a huge deal in the long run
Always enjoy your posts. Very informative and a great laugh too! I see most work done w pavers….we are in Alabama and about to do a bluestone patio maybe 1”-11/2 in 3-4 size pattern. Thoughts on base?…. not sure on joints or w/o either.. Ya’ll are the best! Keep rockin Benny!
You really are a magician with that saw. What a nice cut you did by the bulkhead all by eye. Can you tell me the name of those pavers and border bricks? Love that color combo
Thank you, I have a lot of experience with that saw. The pavers are made by (Genest). The main pavers are called (Grand Katahdin) with a color tone of (Granite) and the border pavers are called (Eastern Bay) with a color tone of (Charcoal)
I use a very different method than most people on TH-cam do. It is called (Open Grade Base) It is a method that is becoming more common because it is proving to be far superior to gravel / sand base methods. There is a video on how we backfilled this project where I explain the method. Here is a link to that video👉 th-cam.com/video/fDe3tMZQY5o/w-d-xo.html
Not really, but there are a few things we look out for. Long joint lines, 4 way intersections and a large amount of the same size in a row. I explain it a little more in this video right here 👉th-cam.com/video/lWNitowC_k4/w-d-xo.html
I enjoy your videos a lot, plenty of information that is very beneficial for us trying to learn from the best. Was wondering what that pattern is call and what is the trick to laying it out?
Glad to hear it, thanks for the feedback. I dont lay pavers in patterns. I lay them randomly while looking out for a few things. No long joint lines, no 4 way intersections (where 4 corners of 4 pavers intersect) and don't put too many pavers of the same size together. Check out this video I made that talks about it a little more 👉th-cam.com/video/lWNitowC_k4/w-d-xo.html
@@TheChristianHardscaper Heh, I completely got the accent wrong. Keep up the good work! I watch Mike Haduck a lot as well. He says to use stone dust if you want to water to flow away and not drain. Is this the case for you?
He is definitely right that stone dust will help water flow on the top but the problem is that any water that may get into the stone dust has an extremely hard time getting out of the stone dust. It is like a sponge and that is not good for under pavers. especially in the winter when all the moisture in the stone dust freezes. which will lift the pavers and cause movement over a few freeze/ thaw cycles. With this clean stone as my bedding material, the water will flow freely into the subsoil.
@@TheChristianHardscaper That makes sense! Thanks for the info. Do you guys ever put in french drains under the gravel to help with drainage? I'm just curious as where I live (Winnipeg), we have marshy soil that's also extremely sticky clay. It's called "Winnipeg Gumbo." If I ever get pavers done, I'll probably just hire someone.
Hey just checking in, God is healing me im not back to work yet but this screed video has me thinking about the guys i see screen for walls, I could see them do this in non freeze and thaw climates but in freeze and thaw places i feel like it makes more room for things to move, What are your thoughts on this?
Amen, I'm glad you are healing! I do disagree with it having more of a chance to shift in a freeze / thaw climate. I am in Massachusetts which has many freeze / thaw cycles during the winter. That is where this method shines actually. The open spaces in the stone gives the moisture places to expand into when it freezes in stead of pushing the material apart. But honestly, because of how well it drains, the risk of it heaving and freezing is already so much less likely to happen.... I have about 200 installs over 5 years with this method with little to no failures yet.
@@TheChristianHardscaper Im open grade all the way for all of the installs, but i guess what i was saying is the guys who use the 3/4 or 1 inch clean and the 1/4 inch chip stone screeded out to set the wall blocks instead of hammering them in place one by one on the normal 1 inch or 3/4 clean I feel like it has a higher chance for wash out over time?
@@danraymond1703 Oh ok, I got ya. I totally agree about not laying a retaining wall on chip stone. I have done it for a small sitting wall but I would never trust it for a retaining wall that is holding back pressure. Too much possibility for shifting on the small stone. ✌
Awesome job like always. I subscribed to learn more from you! Thanks for your time. Seems like you guys mostly do patios. That’s nice. Mastering one skill and become the best at it. I like the idea of using crushed stone vs. sand too. I didn’t think it’d as level compared to sand, but obviously that’s not the case. Man, I really wanna learn this and offer it as a service. Gotta call a lot of people here locally to find out more about pricing, etc.
No problem, thank you for your support! We do a lot of patios, walkways, walls and steps. The crushed stone (Open Grade Base) method we use has been night and day compared to the traditional method of dense grade / sand. Been using it for over 4 years now and I will never go back. I have so much content from multiple jobs from 2021 and this year just sitting on sd cards and hard drives, waiting for me to put the videos together. During the busy season, I just don't have the time to edit them. But winter is coming and there will be a lot more videos coming ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper awesome to hear brother. I’ll be waiting for more videos to come. As always, thank you for your time! Would 89 stone be considered open grade? I actually don’t know what open grade means lol. The stone here local to me that I think would work for patios would be 57 to level and compact sub base and 89 for screeding. Not sure if that would work, just trying to find something similar here locally that would work.
(Open Grade Base) just means the base material is (clean) crushed stone with no fine materials in it, allowing water to flow through freely. I use 3/4 inch (clean) crushed stone for my base material. And I use 3/8 inch (clean) crushed stone for my bedding material. I believe 57 stone is 3/4 (clean) crushed stone but I'm not sure, it's called a lot of different things but we call it 3/4 crushed stone here (typically crushed granite or bluestone here in massachusetts). Same thing with the smaller crushed stone, some call it Premium Bedding Stone (PBS), some call it High Performance Bedding (HPB), Here we call it (Chip Stone) or (Chip Rock).
@@TheChristianHardscaper awesome. Thank you for taking your time to respond not just ku to my comments, but to everyone else’s too. It must be hell responding to so many comments. Appreciate your time!!
Thank you, recycled concrete is a material that you have or all you can get, go for it but I don’t believe it is as good as actual crushed aggregate. Concrete will break down far quicker than natural crushed stone. But yes, you could use it. I would compact it in a few lifts though… ✌🏻
The recycled concrete is typically softer and more rounded on the edges than crushed granite. Plus concrete pieces will breakdown into smaller pieces later down the road, so you want to make sure the recycled concrete is compacted nice and tight to prevent any sinking to early in its life.
Hi, I noticed that before laying out the 1/4 chip stones, your 3/4 stone bed was already so flat. It wasn't shown in the previous video (day 2) but I guess you screeded the 3/4'' stone layer, right?
We don't screed the 3/4 but we do take our time raking it out as close to or grade as possible. We rake it out and set the screed pipes to check as we go. If we are high, we take some out, if we are low, we add some. Little by little and 1 section at a time ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thanks bud. I'm finally at this step myself :D :D :D Question about the grade level. Say there is already a concrete surface I have to meet, should I grade the 3/4'' stones about 3 & 3/8'' away from that surface? My calculation is 1.25'' (screeding bar outer diameter for 1/4'' chip stones) - 0.25'' (give from hammering the paver done and/or the final compacting before poly sands) + 60mm (pavor, roughly equivalent to 2 & 3/8' ). Does it sound about right? I am mainly not sure about the "give" part.
When meeting a specific height, giving yourself more compaction room the better. It is easier to slope it more than lift pavers up because they are low. That being said, between 1/4 inch - 1/2 inch is the safe zone ✌🏻
It is called (Woven Geotextile Stabilization Fabric). It is made of plastic strips which are woven together to allow water to freely flow through it. It does 2 things for you, 1 is that it is very strong, so when it is laid out and covered with base material, it helps stabilize the gravel preventing shifting and sinking. The other thing it does is separate the sub soil from the gravel to prevent soil migration. A lot of sinking and shifting under hardscape projects happen due to soil migration. This fabric helps prevent that. ✌
OMG Kyle, you and Benny had me cracking up on this one. I simply cannot take the thigh highs and the comb over. Nope. 😂 Ok, ladybugs bite. I didn't know that until after I became an adult. I used to play with ladybugs all the time when I was a child and never knew...🤣 So, I am having a hard time finding this clean gravel or chip rock. I found something in my area (Dallas, TX) called chico rock that sounds similar. I am going to check it out this week. But, if I can't find this clean aggregate gravel can I use decomposed granite? Thank you! Oh, I hope you found your truck block.🙏
🤣 we always try to have a good time, glad you got a kick out of it! I never knew lady bugs bite either… lol Hopefully the Chico rock is similar. The decomposed granite has fines in it, so if you use a clean stone for the base and bedding material with fines in it, the fines will wash away into the gaps of the base stone. So if you use a clean stone for the base, you need clean stone for the bedding. If you use a bedding material wit fines, you need a base material with fines. Or you use clean base stone and lay fabric over it, then put your bedding stone with fines over it. That will prevent the fines from washing away
Hello! That material is called " Geo-Textile Soil Stabilization Fabric ".The rolls I buy are 6ft wide x 100ft long. Many manufacturers make their own version of it and It is made of long strands of plastic which are woven together, allowing for water to permeate through. At the same time, it acts as a soil separator and stabilizer. We use it between the subsoil and backfill material on every hardscape install we do. ✌
Yes, if it is an adjustment of less than a half inch, we use chip stone to adjust it. If it is more than that, we add more base rock to get us to height. ✌
Love the content just came across it by accident , I'm in Ireland and I do some paving work with a guy here I'm the benny, still using stone dust the chip is a great idea , are the pavers OK to drive 🚗 on , thanks again 👍
That’s awesome man, glad to hear my videos are reaching Ireland! The chip stone is strong enough for pavers. However, for driveways, we dig deeper and add Geo grid to the base rock. We also compact with a heavy compactor to make sure it can stand vehicular traffic. And usually, driveway pavers are an inch thicker ✌🏻
Sand is unstable and holds onto water, causing shifting, heaving and sinking in the winter months. Here is a video which explains it in more detail 👉th-cam.com/video/ChaJe3JqD6I/w-d-xo.html
Was trying to find you on Instagram so I could share photos of the patio you helped me get done. Unfortunately doesn’t look like you have one. But just know I’m quite pleased with the results and it was because of the tips/info I got from your videos. Thanks! Question: what type of concrete do you use for the edging? Thanks.
That’s really cool to hear man. I would love to see some pictures! No Instagram yet but soon enough hopefully. Glad my videos helped you out, that’s what I am doing it for. Enjoy your patio brother! ✌🏻
I use 3/8 inch and less clean, crushed stone instead of sand. It holds up much better over time because it allows water to travel through freely, while sand holds onto water more and is more likely to wash out over time.
Very impressive work and thank you for sharing this videos. I have seen a lot of hardscapers running a plate compactor over the pavers once they finish the patios. Do you recommend this step?
Thank you and your welcome, I really enjoy putting them together! Compacting the pavers is a very good idea. I do this during the polymeric sand installation. After you sweep the sand through once, you compact and then sweep through one more time. I have compacted in many different ways.... On large installs, a plate compactor with a rubber pad is the best bet. But on smaller applications a hand tamper will work just fine. I have a few Polymeric sanding videos on my channel if you are interested in checking those out✌
Is chip stone the same at pea gravel? I'm in Southeastern MA .. not too far from you guys.. I'm having my patio done right now.. they are doing it exactly like you guys.. all the way to the galvanized pipes too.. they put down a pea stone bedding on top of the 3/4.. is that the same as chip stone?
That is awesome to hear! Some guys use pea stone when they can't find the chip stone. Perfectly fine. If they got the excavation and backfill done right, I'm sure you will end up with a very good, long lasting product. Congratulations, hope you enjoy it! ✌
Thank you, the fabric is very important. It prevents the soils from migrating into the clean, crushed stone. If you don't use the fabric, there will be sinking and shifting in the future
This is prob gonna sound silly to you but can I lay pavers over a concrete pad? the pad looks horrible as it is now but its a pretty big pad and tearing it out wouldnt be possible anytime soon. thanks for your videos.
I wouldn’t recommend that as great thing to do but if you were to, I would spread a layer of the small chip stone you see in this video on top of the concrete for the pavers to sit on. Creating a layer of material to separate the 2.
Thank you, these Pavers are made by (Genest) they are out of Maine. The main paver is called (Grand Katahdin) with a color blend of (Granite). The border pavers are called (Eastern Bay) with a color blend of (Charcoal) ✌🏻
Maybe I missed it but how did they measure plan the no cut layout since there seems to be 3 different size pavers ? Beginner trying to fit my 1st small patio type paver project
It is all about where you start laying the pavers to end with no cuts. The good thing about the 3 size pavers is that you can end the patio wherever it makes sense to not have cuts. ✌
The pavers are a 3 size set. They are assorted and come with about 110-125 sq ft per pallet. So you would need 2 or just over 2 pallets depending on what you choose… ✌🏻
Hi Kyle, I’m really enjoying your channel. Thx for sharing your knowledge and teaching us the ole tricks of the trade. I’m a DIY’r, and enjoy doing my own landscaping, and want to take the plunge into hardscaping. I have a quick question: Who does the design, and chooses the materials. Is that something you do when creating a proposal? Thx vm Sean
The design comes from walk around estimates with the customers. I give them options after hearing what they want. They go over in general what they are hoping for, then I offer ideas and design options for them to choose from. Like intricate curves and cutting costs more than straight, squared of designs simply because of additional labor to build. The materials are decided upon through numerous conversations and looking at samples, catalogs and pictures of previous work done. But every project has it's differences. Experience helps, and the more experience you gain, the easier it gets....✌
I saw it from your previous video when doing that curvy shaped patio s/ wall & fire pit, and also partly here, that you cut the fabric right at the top of 3/4'' stones. Is there a reason? Is it not recommended to have the fabric under the 1/4'' or doesn't matter that much?
I cut it at the top of the 3/4 because we don’t want excess fabric. The chip stone is held in by the concrete edge restraint we install close to the end. ✌🏻
@@TheChristianHardscaper I see, thanks! In that case how do you deal with the fabric when doing concrete edging? Will the concrete sit on top of 3/4'' stones, or on fabric, or even wrap around the fabric (the fabric is folded around up against the paver edge)?
Do you have a pattern in mind or do you just lay them randomly? I will be attempting my first paver patio same size stone as this, it will be roughly 6’x16’ I’m nervous 😩
No pattern, I just look out for really long joint lines, 4 ways and multiples of one size next to each other. Other than that, make sure you use an entire layer before picking more sizes from another layer or you will run out of those size pavers to quick. You need to use 1 layer at a time. Good luck, you will be fine! ✌🏻
Thank you! We compact the base stone but not the chip stone. I do not worry about settling because I trust my backfill method to the highest degree. If you have not seen the video before this one, I go through how we backfill and why I trust it so much. Here is a link to that video👉th-cam.com/video/fDe3tMZQY5o/w-d-xo.html
I confess to binge watching your channel 😂 My husband and I are planning a diy patio install, after watching your very detailed (thank you) videos, I feel we can tackle this with success. I have a question about material. We were leaning toward concrete pavers from Menard’s for the cost effectiveness. I find them incredibly thick and aesthetically, not thrilled about the material, so I started looking into travertine. My concern is that we’re in eastern Ohio, close to Pittsburgh and wonder if it is even recommended for the climate(freeze/thaw). I wanted to see if you ever installed these and would recommend/not recommend for our area? If you do recommend them, how do I find a reputable source for them, they seem to be all online? Thank you in advance for taking the time to read and respond to this! God Bless!
🤣 Glad to hear you enjoy the videos and that they are helpful! You can use Travertine in a freeze / thaw climate for sure. But I would recommend doing some research for Landscape / Masonry supply stores in your area. They will have far better paver options than Menards.... And they will be the ones who can get you travertine also. They will also have some contractor referrals if needed. So that is where I would start. Good luck! ✌
Thanks for the response! We were advised, with whatever our choice ends up being, in regard to steps, to place angle iron on the foundation and attach about 3 concrete lintels perpendicular to the house, extruding into the yard (below frost) supported at the ends by 2’ x 2’ pads. The reason being is that the ground was previously disturbed on another project to replace the footer drains (2020). While we overkilled on the backfill with stone, the steps will completely rest on the previously disturbed area not virgin ground and there’s a fear of more settling. Have you heard of this method for support? Is that overkill and a 4-6” pad is actually enough, with proper base prep? The footprint of the steps is 15’wide x 9’ deep x 3’high. I realize it’s hard to say without seeing, we’re just gathering as many opinions as possible. Thanks again.
I understand what you are saying and it is a good idea to do something extra like that to help support the steps. That is a good size set of steps so the more strength, the better ✌
I compacted the first layer of stone into the sub soil. Then laid geotextile fabric, and covered with more 3/4 stone up to my grade without compacting. The only other time I compact, is when I compact the pavers while doing poly sand
Hi, Love your videos. I'm actually doing my first DIY following them. Hope I can get it right :D I already have lots of questions but I'll go over your videos a few more times first. I do notice that you used 1/4'' crush stones before and now it is 3/8''. Big differences? If I can't find the 3/8'' type, 1/4 or pea tones which one is better? Thanks and say Hi to Benny.
Sweet, thanks for the feedback! The crushed bedding stone has been pretty consistently the 3/8 for awhile now. The 1/4 is very hard to find. If you can't find either, "Crushed" pea stone will be the best option. The angular edges hold together better than round edges. But if you can't find that, the round edge pea stone is still better than sand or stone dust... Good luck on the project!✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thanks a lot for answering. Here stone yards only carry 1/4". I think I'll settle with that. I just bought my 3/4" today. Time to work!
Great job! How do you choose the pattern to layout the pavers? I'm working on a project at home and I'm having 2 pallets of 3 piece big-boy, heavy-assed, 2 3/8" thick multi sized pavers delivered. They're 15 3/4" with various lengths. If you have any tips about laying these beasts down without destroying the base stones, please let me know. Also, I think you're in Webster MA? I'm in Pawtucket RI. I'll hook you up with lunch, booze, cigars, and dough. Drop by and say hello. I'm old and been doing this job by myself. Thanks for the informative videos! 😊
Thank you, We lay the pavers randomly and look out for just a few things. No 4 way intersections, no really long joint lines and not to many of the same paver shapes next to each other. I am close to Webster, I am out of Oxford. I wish I could come help because it sounds like a great time! Unfortunately I don't think I would time to. I wish you the best of luck though brother! ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thanks for your reply! I love your videos and feel like it would be a blast to have a drink and BS with you and Benny 🍻 Peace Brian
Could you please tell me where hardscapers buy the paver sealer? The big box stores don't stock it. They want me to order it online. I can't believe that professionals order it online. I called the place I bought my pavers, stone and polymeric sand from. They quoted me $860 for a 5 gallon bucket of solvent based sealer. Any help will be appreciated. Love your videos! Thanks 👍
There is a bunch of different manufacturers but it is just a woven geotextile plastic underlayment for pavers. Fully permeable and very good at stabilizing the subsoil and base rock ✌🏻
I love watching his channel and all his exceptional work.
I just want to thank you for your videos. The majority of the trades people in Australia install pavers incorrectly, and I have recently been a victim of a faulty install which cost me a lot of money. I will endeavour to fix it all myself.
No problem, I'm sorry to hear that you had issues with your contractor. Unfortunately there are many paver installers that are not doing things correctly, USA is no exception to that for sure.... Good luck on the repairs, I hope it all works out ✌
That was the ladybug's adventure of a lifetime. The patio looks great! Rock on 🎸⚒👍
Thanks!
No problem, thank you very much! ✌
I like and believe in this system. I’m about to take on my 1200sq ft patio in CT. Most of my properties I’ve had to deal with water issues and already confident it’s the best way to keep water flowing the way it should. A place to travel and away from the house. Open base will be a new language moving forward. These flash floods we all are facing causes all the sand base patios to wash out or create sink holes.
This system will not fail you, especially in CT. I have over 150 installs with this method just above you in Massachusetts and they are aging very well. Your project will hold up to water just find if you use it. Good luck! ✌
I'm hooked. Absolutely beautiful job. I note that the crushed stone extended beyond the paver edge eliminates the need for the plastic paver edging material. It never works anyway and ends up looking unsightly.
Thank you, We do excavate 6-8 inches farther on all sides to help prevent the edges from sinking. We then concrete the edges to lock everything together. I hate that plastic edging as well, and I can't use it anyway because the loose base stone will not hold the spikes strong enough.
Here is a video I made about how I concrete the edges 👉th-cam.com/video/_X1tCmMJQqk/w-d-xo.html
@@TheChristianHardscaper The plastic edging is horrible. It's a great way to ruin a good patio.
@TheChristianHardscaper I found your videos while searching for my own first-time DIY walkway and I followed your system to a T. It looks beautiful I can’t believe I pulled it off. Your techniques and video content are amazing man… thank you so much.
That is awesome! I love hearing feedback like this. Knowing the videos are helping people build some cool projects is very motivating. God Bless! ✌
Awesome video, I like your easy going narrative and explanation. Please keep up the professional workmanship and interesting content. Thank you from Toronto, Ontario!
Thank you, I try to be laid back in life and in my video editing. Glad you like it! ✌🏻
Great work and videos, thanks so much. I can watch this all day!
These are such great videos. You guys are masters at this
I appreciate it, we try! ✌
Best hard landscaping channel on TH-cam! Keep those videos coming brother love from Glasgow Scotland 🏴🤙
Thanks brother! It’s very cool to see my videos are reaching you in Scotland ✌🏻
Hey Man just wanted to say thanks for putting these videos together. I've been studying up a bit on patio builds and your videos really tied it all together for me. On vacation last week I spent a good amount of time streaming your vids through my TV. I'm building an outbuilding in the back yard and when done I want to finish off with a nice paver patio and walkways. Can't wait to do it now that I have a better clue on how to get pro results. Thanks!
No problem at all! That sounds like a very cool project man, a patio and walkways would tie it together nicely 👌 Good luck on your projects! ✌
Wtv you do as patio or steps ect... Slant your level a bit if not when it rains the water will not drain...
Love the way you work ... smart n clean
Thank you ✌
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, nice music selection.
My pleasure, glad you enjoyed it! ✌
I enjoy your videos and demeanor, you guys make a great team
✌️😎
Thank you for the feedback, Ben and I have been friends for 17 years now.... It's a blessing to work with your best friend, very helpful!
Hello, I want a piece of advice after throwing the sand. It’s good to put the sealant on how long later so that the sand doesn’t come out?
Would this system double as a French drain of sorts, especially if it’s all sloped towards a catch basin with a pump? It would probably work even better if we don’t use the finish sand on top, but not sure if the bricks would move around more or look bad without sand. Great work man! I want to do this system in Washington where we get plenty of water.
You can definitely use this method to tie into a french drain. And with this base, even if you use the polymeric sand you shouldn't have a problem with drainage. The best thing you can do is make a stone bed / apron around the edges that ties into the base stone. Then all the surface water will drain into the apron and find its way into the drain underneath.
Thanks for the tutorial and insights! Do you have any videos on how you do paver driveways? I didn’t see any when I scrolled through.
My pleasure! I unfortunately do not yet... I have done a few but that was before I started my channel.
CHS is the best!
From Oregon.
Great work. I looked but did not see this: what pavers are you using exactly?
Love your work tuning in from New Zealand
Awesome, Thank you for the feedback and I'm glad you are enjoying the channel!
Nice work! Hey why do you use stone instead of sand?
Love your channel - I built a paver patio about 20 years ago on clay soil and wish I had your channel. I recently moved close to the beach and have sandy soil, what is the best way to prepare the base so the pavers do not shift on the sandy soil? Thanks again for the videos.
Hey there, I appreciate the support! I use the same base prep method as I usually do for sandy sub soil. Sandy soil may seem like it will shift easily but it won't once you are backfilled and the pavers are laid. You don't need to dig any deeper or do anything additional than what I typically do on all projects.
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thank you so much - you are the best. Appreciate your videos.
on a 3 piece random pattern,how many block to you lay b4 you break the straight line,looks like you go 3-4 block b4 you break line
on large patios like this, I go 4-5 pavers at the most. 6 if you absolutely have to in order to prevent a 4 way. But yea, every 3-4 is the best .
Awesome new sub here. Thanks for the great content. Planning on doing something close to this on my property. And hopefully over the next couple years adding this work to my business little by little.
Nice, and my pleasure! I have really been enjoying making these videos. It is a great service to add to your business. Fun work and very rewarding. Good luck with your projects and your business! ✌
NICE job.👍👍👍
Thanks ✌
Great job , looks great . I almost watch all your videos anyway where can u get the borders stone Holland color like dark gray like you pick I don't see that color in store. Thanks u!
These particular border pavers on this project where made by (Genest) and the style is called (Eastern Bay) with a color tone of (Charcoal).
Depending on the manufacturer you choose for pavers they pretty much all have different names…
Great video. Anyone every tell you that you look like Ben Affleck? Quick question: is using 3/4" and 3/8" limestone okay for a sub base and base? I see you're using 3/4" granite. Does the chipstone have to be granite or can it be limestone? Thanks very much!
Thank you, and yes I have heard it a few times here on TH-cam, makes me laugh every time! LOL I never seen a resemblance until I got a few comments about it....
And to answer your question, yes. You can use crushed limestone for sure. Up here in Massachusetts, we have more granite and bluestone than limestone. So we use what is most common. Although, if you are doing a driveway, I recommend granite because it is a stronger stone and will hold up better over time than limestone. ✌
Love the content bro, can we get the music playing in the background
Thank you, which song are you asking about?
What kind of gravel you used and how many inches. Please respond 🙏
It is 3/4 inch clean, crushed stone. Check out the video before this one that explains how we backfill. here is the link to that video👉th-cam.com/video/fDe3tMZQY5o/w-d-xo.html
Will techo still hold their warranty if you use the chip stone instead of sand?
Yes they will, but their warranty relies on more than just the bedding material. So you need to make sure the entire install lines up with their methods they cover. Most manufacturers are standing by open grade and are pushing it more and more.
Nice job 👍🏽
Thanks!
Looks awesome brother.👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks, I really like those pavers ✌🏻
I’m doing my research on creating a foundation for a barn shed to convert into a tiny home. Of course it would have to sit on concrete blocks but south this be a good foundation underneath?
Hope I e explained this well enough
Depending on how big the building is, yes, this base prep method would be good. Maybe excavate a little deeper than I did. At least 12-18 inches..
Nice work, that’s attention to details at its finest!
Thanks brother!✌🏻
Never mind! I found it. Thanks!
Nice, glad you found it and thank you! ✌
Hey im trying to find a video on youtube on how to level the different slopes for a drain at the bottom of a driveway thats going down. Any videos?
For a paver driveway? If so, just use the same pipes as seen in this video and slope everything towards where the drain is. ✌🏻
Hey buddy. I am doing a paver walking path in front of my house. I did a base of 3/4 clean crushed stone. However I live pretty remote and don't have access to 3/8 chip. My options are basically more 3/4 clean or i have access to concrete sand. What is your suggestion?I also realize i over did my compaction and grading. I graded my base dirt and compacted it and did the same for my 3/4" rock. Oh well i guess.
Damn, sorry to hear that. So you can use the concrete sand, but you need to lay fabric over the 3/4 clean first and then lay the sand so it does not migrate into the stone. That will work out if you can't find the chip stone. ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper thanks man! Much appreciated. I will probably do the concrete sand as it is easy for me to get. Thanks for the tip of making sure I have fabric down so it doesn't leach into the rock!
No problem at all, good luck!
Are these pavers layed in a random pattern or is it some how uniform? I have a 20/25’ to do and I’m having trouble wrapping my head around a pattern
I've watched a few videos on pavers and they all use sand as the base under pavers, how come your using stones and is that based on the weather in your area?
The sand and dense grade gravel is a traditional way of base prep for pavers. I use a method called (Open Grade Base). It is designed for permeable paver applications but is excellent for non permeable paver applications as well. Here in Massachusetts, drainage is key to a long lasting project. Dense grade and sand holds onto water like a sponge, Which slowly deteriorates the pavers and cause a lot of problems when winter comes and the base material freezes, causing heaving and sinking.
The open grade base is a method that a lot of contractors have been switching to in the past few years. I switched over 4 years ago and will never go back to the traditional dense grade / sand method. It has been proven to cause many different types of failures for paver projects.
I have plenty of videos on my channel explaining it in more detail.
Here is a video about the base material and how to backfill with it👉th-cam.com/video/aSoi3EI__Rc/w-d-xo.html
Here is a video on the bedding material and how to screed with it👉th-cam.com/video/Y5l7xLCZeyk/w-d-xo.html
I struggle with getting my base consistently flat/pitched, especially larger areas. How close do you get it? How do you get it so flat? Just brute force with multiple string lines + measuring?
Getting the base stone to the right slope can be difficult for sure. Setting lines and measuring is a great way to do it. But I typically just rake and use my screed pipes to check the grade. You just need to lay the pipes down and check the slope with the level you are using
@@TheChristianHardscaper awesome thanks! We completed our first small project this weekend based partly on help from your videos! Turned out great! Only struggle I had was how to keep the polymeric sand in the joints at the outer edges... Even with restraint it would only fill so close to the edge without spilling out.
I'm thinking after back grading I can go back and add a little more at the edges
Nice! And that is a common thing, Most border pavers don't get filled with poly sand all the way to the edge, it pills over the concrete edge on the last inch or so. Not a huge deal in the long run
Always enjoy your posts. Very informative and a great laugh too! I see most work done w pavers….we are in Alabama and about to do a bluestone patio maybe 1”-11/2 in 3-4 size pattern. Thoughts on base?…. not sure on joints or w/o either.. Ya’ll are the best! Keep rockin Benny!
Thanks brother! The base I am using for these pavers is exactly what I use for natural stone as well, can’t beat it.
@@TheChristianHardscaper Is the final gravel you use called 1/4 gravel?
Excellent video!! Guys
Thanks! ✌🏻
You really are a magician with that saw. What a nice cut you did by the bulkhead all by eye.
Can you tell me the name of those pavers and border bricks? Love that color combo
Thank you, I have a lot of experience with that saw. The pavers are made by (Genest). The main pavers are called (Grand Katahdin) with a color tone of (Granite) and the border pavers are called (Eastern Bay) with a color tone of (Charcoal)
What about the compacting of the last layer of gravel? And what about the layer of Sand?
I use a very different method than most people on TH-cam do. It is called (Open Grade Base) It is a method that is becoming more common because it is proving to be far superior to gravel / sand base methods.
There is a video on how we backfilled this project where I explain the method. Here is a link to that video👉 th-cam.com/video/fDe3tMZQY5o/w-d-xo.html
Do you always use the underlayment underneath the larger stone?
I appreciate your content
I appreciate the feedback and I'm glad to hear it! ✌
Is there any specific way your laying the pavers?
Not really, but there are a few things we look out for. Long joint lines, 4 way intersections and a large amount of the same size in a row. I explain it a little more in this video right here 👉th-cam.com/video/lWNitowC_k4/w-d-xo.html
I enjoy your videos a lot, plenty of information that is very beneficial for us trying to learn from the best. Was wondering what that pattern is call and what is the trick to laying it out?
Glad to hear it, thanks for the feedback. I dont lay pavers in patterns. I lay them randomly while looking out for a few things. No long joint lines, no 4 way intersections (where 4 corners of 4 pavers intersect) and don't put too many pavers of the same size together.
Check out this video I made that talks about it a little more 👉th-cam.com/video/lWNitowC_k4/w-d-xo.html
I love your channel and videos! For a second, I thought you were a fellow Canadian... well... until the Maine accent came out.
🤣✌🏻 Thank you very much brother! I’m down here in Massachusetts
@@TheChristianHardscaper Heh, I completely got the accent wrong. Keep up the good work! I watch Mike Haduck a lot as well. He says to use stone dust if you want to water to flow away and not drain. Is this the case for you?
He is definitely right that stone dust will help water flow on the top but the problem is that any water that may get into the stone dust has an extremely hard time getting out of the stone dust. It is like a sponge and that is not good for under pavers. especially in the winter when all the moisture in the stone dust freezes. which will lift the pavers and cause movement over a few freeze/ thaw cycles. With this clean stone as my bedding material, the water will flow freely into the subsoil.
@@TheChristianHardscaper That makes sense! Thanks for the info. Do you guys ever put in french drains under the gravel to help with drainage? I'm just curious as where I live (Winnipeg), we have marshy soil that's also extremely sticky clay. It's called "Winnipeg Gumbo." If I ever get pavers done, I'll probably just hire someone.
@The Christian Hardscaper why do you put fabric under the gravel base?
Hey just checking in, God is healing me im not back to work yet but this screed video has me thinking about the guys i see screen for walls, I could see them do this in non freeze and thaw climates but in freeze and thaw places i feel like it makes more room for things to move, What are your thoughts on this?
Amen, I'm glad you are healing! I do disagree with it having more of a chance to shift in a freeze / thaw climate. I am in Massachusetts which has many freeze / thaw cycles during the winter. That is where this method shines actually. The open spaces in the stone gives the moisture places to expand into when it freezes in stead of pushing the material apart. But honestly, because of how well it drains, the risk of it heaving and freezing is already so much less likely to happen.... I have about 200 installs over 5 years with this method with little to no failures yet.
@@TheChristianHardscaper Im open grade all the way for all of the installs, but i guess what i was saying is the guys who use the 3/4 or 1 inch clean and the 1/4 inch chip stone screeded out to set the wall blocks instead of hammering them in place one by one on the normal 1 inch or 3/4 clean I feel like it has a higher chance for wash out over time?
@@danraymond1703 Oh ok, I got ya. I totally agree about not laying a retaining wall on chip stone. I have done it for a small sitting wall but I would never trust it for a retaining wall that is holding back pressure. Too much possibility for shifting on the small stone. ✌
Do you screed the backfill too? Or just the 3/8?
Just the 3/8 but I do use the pipes to check the grade of the 3/4 before we screed
why not do gravel bed > landscape fabric > then sand bed?
Awesome job like always. I subscribed to learn more from you! Thanks for your time. Seems like you guys mostly do patios. That’s nice. Mastering one skill and become the best at it. I like the idea of using crushed stone vs. sand too. I didn’t think it’d as level compared to sand, but obviously that’s not the case. Man, I really wanna learn this and offer it as a service. Gotta call a lot of people here locally to find out more about pricing, etc.
No problem, thank you for your support! We do a lot of patios, walkways, walls and steps. The crushed stone (Open Grade Base) method we use has been night and day compared to the traditional method of dense grade / sand. Been using it for over 4 years now and I will never go back.
I have so much content from multiple jobs from 2021 and this year just sitting on sd cards and hard drives, waiting for me to put the videos together. During the busy season, I just don't have the time to edit them. But winter is coming and there will be a lot more videos coming ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper awesome to hear brother. I’ll be waiting for more videos to come. As always, thank you for your time! Would 89 stone be considered open grade? I actually don’t know what open grade means lol. The stone here local to me that I think would work for patios would be 57 to level and compact sub base and 89 for screeding. Not sure if that would work, just trying to find something similar here locally that would work.
(Open Grade Base) just means the base material is (clean) crushed stone with no fine materials in it, allowing water to flow through freely. I use 3/4 inch (clean) crushed stone for my base material. And I use 3/8 inch (clean) crushed stone for my bedding material. I believe 57 stone is 3/4 (clean) crushed stone but I'm not sure, it's called a lot of different things but we call it 3/4 crushed stone here (typically crushed granite or bluestone here in massachusetts). Same thing with the smaller crushed stone, some call it Premium Bedding Stone (PBS), some call it High Performance Bedding (HPB), Here we call it (Chip Stone) or (Chip Rock).
@@TheChristianHardscaper awesome. Thank you for taking your time to respond not just ku to my comments, but to everyone else’s too. It must be hell responding to so many comments. Appreciate your time!!
Great video !
What are your thoughts on recycled crushed concrete for the base?
Thanks, John
Thank you, recycled concrete is a material that you have or all you can get, go for it but I don’t believe it is as good as actual crushed aggregate. Concrete will break down far quicker than natural crushed stone. But yes, you could use it. I would compact it in a few lifts though… ✌🏻
@@TheChristianHardscaper
Hi. Just curious, would you please explain why you suggest tamping recycled concrete, but not aggregate. Thanks again. John
The recycled concrete is typically softer and more rounded on the edges than crushed granite. Plus concrete pieces will breakdown into smaller pieces later down the road, so you want to make sure the recycled concrete is compacted nice and tight to prevent any sinking to early in its life.
What kind of rubber mallets do you use?? Or where i can find something like yours?
I bought them from a local masonry supply store. I forget the brand, sorry....
Hi, I noticed that before laying out the 1/4 chip stones, your 3/4 stone bed was already so flat. It wasn't shown in the previous video (day 2) but I guess you screeded the 3/4'' stone layer, right?
We don't screed the 3/4 but we do take our time raking it out as close to or grade as possible. We rake it out and set the screed pipes to check as we go. If we are high, we take some out, if we are low, we add some. Little by little and 1 section at a time ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thanks bud. I'm finally at this step myself :D :D :D Question about the grade level. Say there is already a concrete surface I have to meet, should I grade the 3/4'' stones about 3 & 3/8'' away from that surface? My calculation is 1.25'' (screeding bar outer diameter for 1/4'' chip stones) - 0.25'' (give from hammering the paver done and/or the final compacting before poly sands) + 60mm (pavor, roughly equivalent to 2 & 3/8' ). Does it sound about right? I am mainly not sure about the "give" part.
When meeting a specific height, giving yourself more compaction room the better. It is easier to slope it more than lift pavers up because they are low. That being said, between 1/4 inch - 1/2 inch is the safe zone ✌🏻
why do some people lay a black tarp before everything and some dont? dont get it, whats wrong whats right?
It is called (Woven Geotextile Stabilization Fabric). It is made of plastic strips which are woven together to allow water to freely flow through it. It does 2 things for you, 1 is that it is very strong, so when it is laid out and covered with base material, it helps stabilize the gravel preventing shifting and sinking. The other thing it does is separate the sub soil from the gravel to prevent soil migration. A lot of sinking and shifting under hardscape projects happen due to soil migration. This fabric helps prevent that. ✌
Nice work,what do you think about to put the paver on the sand?
Thank you, I used to use sand 5 years ago. But I never will again, this method is just better in my opinion.
love your videos bro, question ? do you removed the metal pipes afterwards or you leave them bare in the base..
Thanks man! Yes, I remove the pipes after I screed and then fill in the empty channel with more bedding stone and trowel it smooth ✌
what's the paver brand and style?
OMG Kyle, you and Benny had me cracking up on this one. I simply cannot take the thigh highs and the comb over. Nope. 😂 Ok, ladybugs bite. I didn't know that until after I became an adult. I used to play with ladybugs all the time when I was a child and never knew...🤣 So, I am having a hard time finding this clean gravel or chip rock. I found something in my area (Dallas, TX) called chico rock that sounds similar. I am going to check it out this week. But, if I can't find this clean aggregate gravel can I use decomposed granite? Thank you! Oh, I hope you found your truck block.🙏
🤣 we always try to have a good time, glad you got a kick out of it! I never knew lady bugs bite either… lol
Hopefully the Chico rock is similar. The decomposed granite has fines in it, so if you use a clean stone for the base and bedding material with fines in it, the fines will wash away into the gaps of the base stone. So if you use a clean stone for the base, you need clean stone for the bedding. If you use a bedding material wit fines, you need a base material with fines. Or you use clean base stone and lay fabric over it, then put your bedding stone with fines over it. That will prevent the fines from washing away
Thank you so much, Kyle. I think I see the light 💡😁
Hi! What's the purpose of that nylon that you lay underneath? Is it water permeable?
Hello! That material is called " Geo-Textile Soil Stabilization Fabric ".The rolls I buy are 6ft wide x 100ft long. Many manufacturers make their own version of it and It is made of long strands of plastic which are woven together, allowing for water to permeate through. At the same time, it acts as a soil separator and stabilizer. We use it between the subsoil and backfill material on every hardscape install we do. ✌
Great job. Looks awesome.
Thanks man!
So it looks like you shim those gas pipes with the 1/4” chip materials to establish the finish sub grade. Is that correct?
Yes, if it is an adjustment of less than a half inch, we use chip stone to adjust it. If it is more than that, we add more base rock to get us to height. ✌
In what state do you work brother? blessings
Love the content just came across it by accident , I'm in Ireland and I do some paving work with a guy here I'm the benny, still using stone dust the chip is a great idea , are the pavers OK to drive 🚗 on , thanks again 👍
That’s awesome man, glad to hear my videos are reaching Ireland! The chip stone is strong enough for pavers. However, for driveways, we dig deeper and add Geo grid to the base rock. We also compact with a heavy compactor to make sure it can stand vehicular traffic. And usually, driveway pavers are an inch thicker ✌🏻
So what’s the difference between laying the pavers on those rocks instead of on sand?
Sand is unstable and holds onto water, causing shifting, heaving and sinking in the winter months. Here is a video which explains it in more detail 👉th-cam.com/video/ChaJe3JqD6I/w-d-xo.html
Was trying to find you on Instagram so I could share photos of the patio you helped me get done. Unfortunately doesn’t look like you have one. But just know I’m quite pleased with the results and it was because of the tips/info I got from your videos. Thanks!
Question: what type of concrete do you use for the edging? Thanks.
That’s really cool to hear man. I would love to see some pictures! No Instagram yet but soon enough hopefully. Glad my videos helped you out, that’s what I am doing it for. Enjoy your patio brother! ✌🏻
I dont have sound right now so im sure you explained this but..... don't u use sand for pavers to set on?
I use 3/8 inch and less clean, crushed stone instead of sand. It holds up much better over time because it allows water to travel through freely, while sand holds onto water more and is more likely to wash out over time.
@@TheChristianHardscaper Plus, won’t ants tend to hollow out the sand over time?
Very impressive work and thank you for sharing this videos. I have seen a lot of hardscapers running a plate compactor over the pavers once they finish the patios. Do you recommend this step?
Thank you and your welcome, I really enjoy putting them together! Compacting the pavers is a very good idea. I do this during the polymeric sand installation. After you sweep the sand through once, you compact and then sweep through one more time. I have compacted in many different ways.... On large installs, a plate compactor with a rubber pad is the best bet. But on smaller applications a hand tamper will work just fine. I have a few Polymeric sanding videos on my channel if you are interested in checking those out✌
Can I lay paver walkway over pea gravel??
You certainly can, but crushed (angular) stone is better because it locks together better.
@@TheChristianHardscaper
Thanks for the fast responses, I have a 45ft walkway to my backyard that already full with pea gravel.
Is chip stone the same at pea gravel?
I'm in Southeastern MA .. not too far from you guys.. I'm having my patio done right now.. they are doing it exactly like you guys.. all the way to the galvanized pipes too.. they put down a pea stone bedding on top of the 3/4.. is that the same as chip stone?
That is awesome to hear! Some guys use pea stone when they can't find the chip stone. Perfectly fine. If they got the excavation and backfill done right, I'm sure you will end up with a very good, long lasting product. Congratulations, hope you enjoy it! ✌
Hello, they are great videos, thanks for sharing. One question, is black plastic necessary? Or only on some occasions?
Thank you, the fabric is very important. It prevents the soils from migrating into the clean, crushed stone. If you don't use the fabric, there will be sinking and shifting in the future
This is prob gonna sound silly to you but can I lay pavers over a concrete pad? the pad looks horrible as it is now but its a pretty big pad and tearing it out wouldnt be possible anytime soon. thanks for your videos.
I wouldn’t recommend that as great thing to do but if you were to, I would spread a layer of the small chip stone you see in this video on top of the concrete for the pavers to sit on. Creating a layer of material to separate the 2.
Would you change anything when dealing with a drier climate, less rain, and hard clay soil or still use the 3/4 clean and smaller stone for scree?
I would not change anything at all. This method works great for any soil type / climate. You will be very happy with the results. ✌
so when the bubble touches the line, it mean 1/8 inch per foot so 1% slope ?
Yes sir ✌🏻
Great content. Have been following for a bit. What brand pavers and color?
Thank you, these Pavers are made by (Genest) they are out of Maine. The main paver is called (Grand Katahdin) with a color blend of (Granite). The border pavers are called (Eastern Bay) with a color blend of (Charcoal) ✌🏻
very pretty and i like it tnx
Thank you, I love these pavers
Maybe I missed it but how did they measure plan the no cut layout since there seems to be 3 different size pavers ? Beginner trying to fit my 1st small patio type paver project
It is all about where you start laying the pavers to end with no cuts. The good thing about the 3 size pavers is that you can end the patio wherever it makes sense to not have cuts. ✌
What sizes are the pavers you're using? And how many of each would you recommend for 228 sqft? Love the videos. Thanks
The pavers are a 3 size set. They are assorted and come with about 110-125 sq ft per pallet. So you would need 2 or just over 2 pallets depending on what you choose… ✌🏻
@@TheChristianHardscaper thanks, brother!
and do you compact the pavers after completion?
We compact the pavers after installing the 1st round of polymeric sand.
Hi Kyle,
I’m really enjoying your channel. Thx for sharing your knowledge and teaching us the ole tricks of the trade.
I’m a DIY’r, and enjoy doing my own landscaping, and want to take the plunge into hardscaping.
I have a quick question:
Who does the design, and chooses the materials.
Is that something you do when creating a proposal?
Thx vm
Sean
The design comes from walk around estimates with the customers. I give them options after hearing what they want. They go over in general what they are hoping for, then I offer ideas and design options for them to choose from. Like intricate curves and cutting costs more than straight, squared of designs simply because of additional labor to build. The materials are decided upon through numerous conversations and looking at samples, catalogs and pictures of previous work done. But every project has it's differences. Experience helps, and the more experience you gain, the easier it gets....✌
Dream patio how much are we talking for a patio like this
Thanks, prices range on most projects but on average this is a $12,000-$16,000 install.
With the 3 pavers is it a random pattern??
Yes, I almost always lay in a random pattern. They have patterns that you can follow but I don't like that style.... ✌
I saw it from your previous video when doing that curvy shaped patio s/ wall & fire pit, and also partly here, that you cut the fabric right at the top of 3/4'' stones. Is there a reason? Is it not recommended to have the fabric under the 1/4'' or doesn't matter that much?
I cut it at the top of the 3/4 because we don’t want excess fabric. The chip stone is held in by the concrete edge restraint we install close to the end. ✌🏻
@@TheChristianHardscaper I see, thanks! In that case how do you deal with the fabric when doing concrete edging? Will the concrete sit on top of 3/4'' stones, or on fabric, or even wrap around the fabric (the fabric is folded around up against the paver edge)?
@@ttzz7868 You want to install the concrete on top of the 3/4 stone. Then cut the fabric a couple inches below the grade so you don't see it
Do you have a pattern in mind or do you just lay them randomly? I will be attempting my first paver patio same size stone as this, it will be roughly 6’x16’ I’m nervous 😩
No pattern, I just look out for really long joint lines, 4 ways and multiples of one size next to each other. Other than that, make sure you use an entire layer before picking more sizes from another layer or you will run out of those size pavers to quick. You need to use 1 layer at a time. Good luck, you will be fine! ✌🏻
Yea thanks for saving the 🐞
You just have too, they are awesome little creatures! ✌
awesome content and great job!! do you tamp your base layer or the chip stone? do you worry about settling over time?
Thank you! We compact the base stone but not the chip stone. I do not worry about settling because I trust my backfill method to the highest degree. If you have not seen the video before this one, I go through how we backfill and why I trust it so much.
Here is a link to that video👉th-cam.com/video/fDe3tMZQY5o/w-d-xo.html
why you dont use soil compactor
I use one on the base layer when I backfill. Check out this video right here to understand my base method 👉 th-cam.com/video/fDe3tMZQY5o/w-d-xo.html
Hey brother I have a few questions about a paver project I am doing at my home and would like to pick your brain lol. Any way I could get in contact?
I would be happy to help with whatever I can. You could email me at (TheChristianHardscaper@Gmail.com)
Awesome video! Question, what's the average cost for a job of that magnitude?
with the straight edges and minimal cuts, $12,000 - $15,000. When you start doing curves and more custom designs, $16,000 - $18,000
Thanks for responding and that information
I confess to binge watching your channel 😂 My husband and I are planning a diy patio install, after watching your very detailed (thank you) videos, I feel we can tackle this with success. I have a question about material. We were leaning toward concrete pavers from Menard’s for the cost effectiveness. I find them incredibly thick and aesthetically, not thrilled about the material, so I started looking into travertine. My concern is that we’re in eastern Ohio, close to Pittsburgh and wonder if it is even recommended for the climate(freeze/thaw). I wanted to see if you ever installed these and would recommend/not recommend for our area? If you do recommend them, how do I find a reputable source for them, they seem to be all online? Thank you in advance for taking the time to read and respond to this! God Bless!
🤣 Glad to hear you enjoy the videos and that they are helpful! You can use Travertine in a freeze / thaw climate for sure. But I would recommend doing some research for Landscape / Masonry supply stores in your area. They will have far better paver options than Menards.... And they will be the ones who can get you travertine also. They will also have some contractor referrals if needed. So that is where I would start. Good luck! ✌
Thanks for the response! We were advised, with whatever our choice ends up being, in regard to steps, to place angle iron on the foundation and attach about 3 concrete lintels perpendicular to the house, extruding into the yard (below frost) supported at the ends by 2’ x 2’ pads. The reason being is that the ground was previously disturbed on another project to replace the footer drains (2020). While we overkilled on the backfill with stone, the steps will completely rest on the previously disturbed area not virgin ground and there’s a fear of more settling. Have you heard of this method for support? Is that overkill and a 4-6” pad is actually enough, with proper base prep? The footprint of the steps is 15’wide x 9’ deep x 3’high. I realize it’s hard to say without seeing, we’re just gathering as many opinions as possible. Thanks again.
I understand what you are saying and it is a good idea to do something extra like that to help support the steps. That is a good size set of steps so the more strength, the better ✌
love it! Thanks!
Awesome, thank you !
I like your video
thank you ✌
At what stage in this process did you do the compacting? and did you compact the last layer? Thx!
I compacted the first layer of stone into the sub soil. Then laid geotextile fabric, and covered with more 3/4 stone up to my grade without compacting. The only other time I compact, is when I compact the pavers while doing poly sand
Hi, Love your videos. I'm actually doing my first DIY following them. Hope I can get it right :D I already have lots of questions but I'll go over your videos a few more times first. I do notice that you used 1/4'' crush stones before and now it is 3/8''. Big differences? If I can't find the 3/8'' type, 1/4 or pea tones which one is better? Thanks and say Hi to Benny.
Sweet, thanks for the feedback! The crushed bedding stone has been pretty consistently the 3/8 for awhile now. The 1/4 is very hard to find. If you can't find either, "Crushed" pea stone will be the best option. The angular edges hold together better than round edges. But if you can't find that, the round edge pea stone is still better than sand or stone dust... Good luck on the project!✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper Thanks a lot for answering. Here stone yards only carry 1/4". I think I'll settle with that. I just bought my 3/4" today. Time to work!
Nice, 1/4 is nice stuff. Have fun!✌
Hi do I compact the chip stone with the plate tamper?
You can't really compact the chip stone, it is too small and loose. We screed it loose and compact the pavers into it after we lay them ✌
@TheChristianHardscaper thank you iam a newbie house wife learning as I do iam doing the 3/4 clear like you said
Also people are telling me to use 1/4 down for my leveling iam in Tenn. Having a hard time finding the 3/8 chip
Thank you for your help and guidance your work is amazing
Great job!
How do you choose the pattern to layout the pavers? I'm working on a project at home and I'm having 2 pallets of 3 piece big-boy, heavy-assed, 2 3/8" thick multi sized pavers delivered.
They're 15 3/4" with various lengths.
If you have any tips about laying these beasts down without destroying the base stones, please let me know.
Also, I think you're in Webster MA?
I'm in Pawtucket RI.
I'll hook you up with lunch, booze, cigars, and dough.
Drop by and say hello. I'm old and been doing this job by myself.
Thanks for the informative videos! 😊
Thank you, We lay the pavers randomly and look out for just a few things. No 4 way intersections, no really long joint lines and not to many of the same paver shapes next to each other. I am close to Webster, I am out of Oxford. I wish I could come help because it sounds like a great time! Unfortunately I don't think I would time to. I wish you the best of luck though brother! ✌
@@TheChristianHardscaper
Thanks for your reply! I love your videos and feel like it would be a blast to have a drink and BS with you and Benny 🍻
Peace
Brian
Could you please tell me where hardscapers buy the paver sealer? The big box stores don't stock it. They want me to order it online. I can't believe that professionals order it online.
I called the place I bought my pavers, stone and polymeric sand from. They quoted me $860 for a 5 gallon bucket of solvent based sealer.
Any help will be appreciated. Love your videos!
Thanks 👍
What type of geo fabric are you using?
There is a bunch of different manufacturers but it is just a woven geotextile plastic underlayment for pavers. Fully permeable and very good at stabilizing the subsoil and base rock ✌🏻