My early model 4L80E did not have a wave plate in the intermediate clutch pack. I just put it back together with out one. The clutch pack clearance looked to be good to go. Had a hell of a time getting the direct drum spline into the clutch pack without that tool you guys have. I air tested it, and it did not rise letting me know it was seated all the way in.
I'm doing the sonnax th400 case saver and using a full manual valve body that keeps the band. Can you upgrade to the wider 1.25" front band while using the th400/early 4l80e case saver? Will it need the later longer servo pin if it will work with the wider band? I know you can use the wider 4l80e band with the longer servo pin in a 400, but will it still work using the sonnax case saver/intermediate snap ring support?
Great series to help me through my th400 rebuild. Question that came to mind watching the intermediate get stacked - is it ok to put a friction directly onto a wave? Or should a steel be placed on the wave, then friction, etc. I'm asking because I don't know if the wave raised points will damage the friction as the pack is compressed. Seems that the 4 or 5 raised wave sections might be a lot of stress points in the friction. I don't know! Thanks !
Having an installation tool definitely makes life easier. If I'm installing the direct drum without a tool, then I like to use a pocket screwdriver to align all of the clutch pack teeth (Intermediate Clutch). Teeth lined up, and clutch pack centered. Seems like it makes installation a little easier. But then again, maybe it's just all in my head. ;)
Hello. What a wonderfully informative and educational video. I'll start with my TH400. But I need advice. There is a noise in the gearbox on first gear only 1. Only 1. Does not follow engine speed but driving speed. This is not a working noise. Otherwise works great. The oil is fine and at the right level. Afraid that it is not easy to see what is wrong when it is dismantled. The car is a 1968 Corvette 327. Hope someone out there can give some tips that are correct. 🙂
Could be the HD 400 trans they used on the motorhomes. They had straight cut gears I believe on 1st and 2nd gear. The helical gears were used on normal production th400 trans. You may or may not have the HD 400 trans but that's the 1st reason that comes to my mind. I've had one and they tend to get loud when going up the rpm band. Check your trans numbers and see if you have one. If you do it's a stock car racers Holy grail.
What can be a major issue that the intermediate clutch backing plate breaks? We found a crack on that plate as we disassemble the TH400! We can’t figure out why it happens. So if you got an idea let us know please. Thank you 🙏🏻
Great video. I’m planning on doing my own th400 rebuild that came out of a cj7. I’ve heard that the bell housing is different due to it fitting to the amc 304. Are there any other differences?
Right on! The output shaft and center support come to mind. Output Shaft: There's a number of different output shafts. They vary in length, and in spline count. Jeep is 10 spline...whereas most others are 32. Center Support: On GM TH400's, in order to remove the Center Support from the case, a snap-ring and a bolt (Intermediate Clutch feed hole bolt) must be removed. Then the support is free to slide out of case. On some TH400's, there's also a set screw (allen head) that pushes on one of the lugs of the Center Support. The head of this set screw is accessed through the valve-body side of the transmission case. Not sure if that's a Jeep thing, but, thought I'd throw that out there. If you're having trouble removing the center support, might want to look for a set screw. Hope this helps. The positive feedback is appreciated. Thanks for dropping us a line.
@@SouthpawAutoworks these are the best videos most informative and detail that I have ever seen..PERIOD!.. Please do a series of videos on the 1969 style of C4 C5 and aod transmission.. the old school classics... you guys are amazing thank you so much!
I believe that we've got some C-4 transmissions handy. We would love to do a series on that trans...as time permits. Wow, thank you! Your feedback is greatly appreciated. Thanks for dropping us a line.
Very informative and helpful video! Question, when you are doing the air check on the direct drum, are you shooting air into the center support bolt or the hole to the right? I’m not getting any action out of the direct drum as in your 2nd test. Putting a 400 back together for my Jeep J20 truck. Thank you for taking the time to create these videos!
Never mind, I found my problem. I had coated the scarf seals on the center support with green Assembly Goo, shouldn’t have done that. Cleaned it off and coated with trans fluid and test fine now. On another note, a PosiLock model 104 puller with it’s T handle works great to grip the shaft and set the assembly in the case. It also worked great in a drill press to compress the springs and remove the snap rings in the clutches. Been a handy tool for a number of things over the years!
Right on. Glad you got it figured out. The green stuff is "firm tack"...great for holding larger/heavier transmission parts in place, as an assembly aid. The blue stuff is "light tack" and works great for lubricating stuff...and holding smaller/lighter trans parts in place, as an assembly aid. Gonna have to take a look at that setup (PosiLock puller). Thanks for sharing. The positive feedback is appreciated. Thanks for dropping us a line.
My early model 4L80E did not have a wave plate in the intermediate clutch pack. I just put it back together with out one. The clutch pack clearance looked to be good to go. Had a hell of a time getting the direct drum spline into the clutch pack without that tool you guys have. I air tested it, and it did not rise letting me know it was seated all the way in.
Awesome, can't wait for the next one
Great show
Thanks Kenny!
Great videos.
Positive feedback is always appreciated.
Thank you for dropping us a line.
I'm doing the sonnax th400 case saver and using a full manual valve body that keeps the band. Can you upgrade to the wider 1.25" front band while using the th400/early 4l80e case saver? Will it need the later longer servo pin if it will work with the wider band?
I know you can use the wider 4l80e band with the longer servo pin in a 400, but will it still work using the sonnax case saver/intermediate snap ring support?
Nic work sir
Thanks for dropping us a line.
Great series to help me through my th400 rebuild.
Question that came to mind watching the intermediate get stacked - is it ok to put a friction directly onto a wave? Or should a steel be placed on the wave, then friction, etc.
I'm asking because I don't know if the wave raised points will damage the friction as the pack is compressed. Seems that the 4 or 5 raised wave sections might be a lot of stress points in the friction.
I don't know! Thanks !
Installing the direct drum is always a challenge for me.
Having an installation tool definitely makes life easier. If I'm installing the direct drum without a tool, then I like to use a pocket screwdriver to align all of the clutch pack teeth (Intermediate Clutch). Teeth lined up, and clutch pack centered. Seems like it makes installation a little easier. But then again, maybe it's just all in my head. ;)
It's extremely simple and usually takes 5-10 seconds
Mine Did not come with a wave plate after removing!! Do I need it or no for intermediate
How many steel and friction plates go in the forward drum?
Hello. What a wonderfully informative and educational video. I'll start with my TH400. But I need advice. There is a noise in the gearbox on first gear only 1. Only 1. Does not follow engine speed but driving speed. This is not a working noise. Otherwise works great. The oil is fine and at the right level. Afraid that it is not easy to see what is wrong when it is dismantled. The car is a 1968 Corvette 327. Hope someone out there can give some tips that are correct. 🙂
Could be the HD 400 trans they used on the motorhomes. They had straight cut gears I believe on 1st and 2nd gear. The helical gears were used on normal production th400 trans. You may or may not have the HD 400 trans but that's the 1st reason that comes to my mind. I've had one and they tend to get loud when going up the rpm band. Check your trans numbers and see if you have one. If you do it's a stock car racers Holy grail.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
What can be a major issue that the intermediate clutch backing plate breaks? We found a crack on that plate as we disassemble the TH400! We can’t figure out why it happens. So if you got an idea let us know please. Thank you 🙏🏻
Great video. I’m planning on doing my own th400 rebuild that came out of a cj7. I’ve heard that the bell housing is different due to it fitting to the amc 304. Are there any other differences?
Right on!
The output shaft and center support come to mind.
Output Shaft:
There's a number of different output shafts. They vary in length, and in spline count.
Jeep is 10 spline...whereas most others are 32.
Center Support:
On GM TH400's, in order to remove the Center Support from the case, a snap-ring and a bolt (Intermediate Clutch feed hole bolt) must be removed. Then the support is free to slide out of case.
On some TH400's, there's also a set screw (allen head) that pushes on one of the lugs of the Center Support. The head of this set screw is accessed through the valve-body side of the transmission case. Not sure if that's a Jeep thing, but, thought I'd throw that out there. If you're having trouble removing the center support, might want to look for a set screw.
Hope this helps.
The positive feedback is appreciated.
Thanks for dropping us a line.
@@SouthpawAutoworks these are the best videos most informative and detail that I have ever seen..PERIOD!..
Please do a series of videos on the 1969 style of C4 C5 and aod transmission.. the old school classics... you guys are amazing thank you so much!
I believe that we've got some C-4 transmissions handy. We would love to do a series on that trans...as time permits.
Wow, thank you!
Your feedback is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for dropping us a line.
Very informative and helpful video!
Question, when you are doing the air check on the direct drum, are you shooting air into the center support bolt or the hole to the right? I’m not getting any action out of the direct drum as in your 2nd test.
Putting a 400 back together for my Jeep J20 truck.
Thank you for taking the time to create these videos!
Never mind, I found my problem. I had coated the scarf seals on the center support with green Assembly Goo, shouldn’t have done that. Cleaned it off and coated with trans fluid and test fine now.
On another note, a PosiLock model 104 puller with it’s T handle works great to grip the shaft and set the assembly in the case. It also worked great in a drill press to compress the springs and remove the snap rings in the clutches. Been a handy tool for a number of things over the years!
Right on. Glad you got it figured out.
The green stuff is "firm tack"...great for holding larger/heavier transmission parts in place, as an assembly aid. The blue stuff is "light tack" and works great for lubricating stuff...and holding smaller/lighter trans parts in place, as an assembly aid.
Gonna have to take a look at that setup (PosiLock puller). Thanks for sharing.
The positive feedback is appreciated.
Thanks for dropping us a line.
Thank you for the info!
@@ponway I recently mixed the heavy goo 2 to 1 with dextron and made lighter assembly goop, works excellent!
Right on! Thanks for sharing.