Another way to tell the 70 face cover from a 68 and 69 is that there's only three switches on the left hand side instead of four like on the 68 and 9. The fourth switch is deleted because the flasher in 70 was moved to the steering column so 68 and 9 has four switches on the left side and 70 only has three. I didn't know this till about a week ago as I just went through and fixed a couple clusters myself and noticed the difference.
At some point, I'm sure I'll be pulling my gauge cluster to restore it. I'd like to figure out why my clock doesn't work at some point. My speedometer has never worked in all the years I have owned my 68 though I believe that was always the cable's fault. Never cared that it didn't work thought when I was drag racing. If I wanted to be accurate, I'd probably have to move my odometer reading forward 4 or 5 thousand, lol Very helpful video for sure.
Good video Jonny... There's a a lot of spray electrical cleaners that work well with small wire brushes... Avoids breaking studs... Dielectric grease on all connections is a real good idea to keep corrosion at bay long term... use CRC 2-26 spray to improve electrical connection on socket connectors after cleaning.... Even works a slot car track to keep track corrosion to a minimum.
Hey brother they offer new dash faces in decals. I used the white face to contrast this time on mine but they original black of course also. I believe I got mine through Layson and it was really reasonable... like $50-60 for the full set. It's tedious but it went well and made the finished result good. I was unable to get a couple of tiny bubbles were on the speedo because it was such a big guage. A tiny needle poke and tiny bubbles gone. Mine looked exactly like yours
I have only recently found your channel and subscribed. I am sorry that your Charger burned, but really wonder why it went up? What caused the fire??? Very often I heard electrical issues in the dash started a car/truck on fire. Mostly due to putting too many amps through the lousily designed amp gauge and wiring.. Also, I am sure you already know this, but you can buy all new decals to fully restore your gauges.
Hi SteveP, welcome to the channel and thanks for subbing. My 70 had an electrical issue that killed the engine, I cranked, it back fired and lit the leaking fuel from the inlet tube grommet. And yes, I know, but I’m just trying to get the car running for MATS which is next week.
for a fully re-build engine to reverse the mileages it should be on 200 miles but it really not legal but on a fully restore car and have it in patina finish it should be above 25000 miles not sure it still legal to but can't keep miles from another car to another car that don't match. LOL nice tip man.
Don't throw the gauges away. I've seen stencils for gauges. Not sure if they have it for Mopars...they must have because they're so popular now. Once you find the stencils all those gauges are salvageable.
The evaporust didn’t eat the paint the vinegar ate the paint. Try it with out the vinegar and you’ll see it will clean it up with out damaging the paint
I tried the same thing. Without vinegar. ( vinegar makes me nauseous so I don't use it). basically the same thing happened and the surface paint de laminated. It doesn't matter. I am using decals to replace the faded lettering.
The shaft goes in the hole, thanks for the instructions 😮
Lol
Another way to tell the 70 face cover from a 68 and 69 is that there's only three switches on the left hand side instead of four like on the 68 and 9. The fourth switch is deleted because the flasher in 70 was moved to the steering column so 68 and 9 has four switches on the left side and 70 only has three. I didn't know this till about a week ago as I just went through and fixed a couple clusters myself and noticed the difference.
That’s cool. I never even thought of that but makes sense.
At some point, I'm sure I'll be pulling my gauge cluster to restore it. I'd like to figure out why my clock doesn't work at some point.
My speedometer has never worked in all the years I have owned my 68 though I believe that was always the cable's fault. Never cared that it didn't work thought when I was drag racing. If I wanted to be accurate, I'd probably have to move my odometer reading forward 4 or 5 thousand, lol
Very helpful video for sure.
Lol. Thanks for the comment Ts. I still remember when mine in my Coronet flipped out and now pegs 120 when I’m going 60.
Good video Jonny... There's a a lot of spray electrical cleaners that work well with small wire brushes... Avoids breaking studs... Dielectric grease on all connections is a real good idea to keep corrosion at bay long term... use CRC 2-26 spray to improve electrical connection on socket connectors after cleaning.... Even works a slot car track to keep track corrosion to a minimum.
Dang it. I wish I thought of that MoparNut.
Hey brother they offer new dash faces in decals. I used the white face to contrast this time on mine but they original black of course also. I believe I got mine through Layson and it was really reasonable... like $50-60 for the full set. It's tedious but it went well and made the finished result good. I was unable to get a couple of tiny bubbles were on the speedo because it was such a big guage. A tiny needle poke and tiny bubbles gone. Mine looked exactly like yours
Thanks Midnight, yeah I know about the new decals, just trying to save time and get her running for MATS next week.
Believe we used a Qtip and rubbing alcohol on the letters to clean them up a bit.
I’ll have to try that next time.
Great info 👍
Thanks bro
I have only recently found your channel and subscribed. I am sorry that your Charger burned, but really wonder why it went up? What caused the fire??? Very often I heard electrical issues in the dash started a car/truck on fire. Mostly due to putting too many amps through the lousily designed amp gauge and wiring.. Also, I am sure you already know this, but you can buy all new decals to fully restore your gauges.
Hi SteveP, welcome to the channel and thanks for subbing. My 70 had an electrical issue that killed the engine, I cranked, it back fired and lit the leaking fuel from the inlet tube grommet. And yes, I know, but I’m just trying to get the car running for MATS which is next week.
Also the speedo needle is removable.
I have to figure that out. Thanks for the tip Midnight.
What was the best thing you learned?
You mean out of everything? Or do you mean, what I learned about the cluster?
@@JonnyMopar from the video/cluster clean up
for a fully re-build engine to reverse the mileages it should be on 200 miles but it really not legal but on a fully restore car and have it in patina finish it should be above 25000 miles not sure it still legal to but can't keep miles from another car to another car that don't match. LOL nice tip man.
Thanks Captain.
Don't throw the gauges away. I've seen stencils for gauges. Not sure if they have it for Mopars...they must have because they're so popular now. Once you find the stencils all those gauges are salvageable.
Yes, they have stencils for ‘em. I keep almost everything. The melted dash face is the exception.
The evaporust didn’t eat the paint the vinegar ate the paint. Try it with out the vinegar and you’ll see it will clean it up with out damaging the paint
Will do Kramer. Next time I will.
I tried the same thing. Without vinegar. ( vinegar makes me nauseous so I don't use it). basically the same thing happened and the surface paint de laminated. It doesn't matter. I am using decals to replace the faded lettering.