WPL Metal Transfer Box & 370 Motor [ Installed in a B24 ]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ม.ค. 2019
- My beloved Gaz 66 (WPL B24) has it's previous N20/N30 drivetrain upgraded to a full on metal transfer box and 370 motor.
Box & Motor: bit.ly/2CkjCrK (30% off with VIP)
Stay tuned for a ton of other upgrades and a good crawl when all is said and done.
This upgrade fits a slew of models including WPL B-1 B-16 B-24 B-36 C14 C24, JJRC Q60 Q61 Q62 Q63 Q64, Heng Long and MN-90 variants among others.
Thank you for watching, I'm always happy to converse, answer questions & happy to take content suggestions for future videos if possible so please leave a comment, I always aspire to answer each and every one!
If this video helped you in any way, please rate the content - I appriciate it very much.
Data burst containing the usual information can be found on the outro. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Props for mentioning flipping that back axle man I could not for the life of me figure out why both wheels were going inward
You're welcome, my friend!
Really thanks for this video, it was all what i was looking for
You're welcome!
Thanks for the video! Let's see it run!
You're welcome, it's due a good run out very soon after having the leafsprings/lift done!
Very cool truck and nice upgrade to make it more solid!
Cheers , Fella. Getting the fleet ready for the good weather when little man likes drive & explore, a fair few more to go one the truck and a couple of other little projects - idle thumbs and all that.
Helpful video. Cheers! As usual there is a bit more modifying to be done than one expects.
Greating from indonesia
Very cool. Looks tough as 💪🏾
Thanks - It's just had the metal leafspring upgrade which should be posted tomorrow.
Comprei esse motor pra colocar no jjrc q60 quero ver se fica bom
Excellent thanks fella. Just put my gearbox together following this.
You're very welcome!
Is it a better upgrade based on performance?
@@lemongorengpeng Undoubtedly it is compared to stock. However, the 2 speed box I have found to be even better with metal gear upgrade, unstoppable low end with a nice bit of speed when you need it!
Good to see a new video from you, MrE!
Cheers, Fella! Plenty more in the tubes that may be up your street - mostly WPL hopup's etc.
Trying to get back in to the swing of things after the holiday season and bad weather, thanks for taking the time to comment!
Can't wait for more WPL :D
That was cool....thank for video...greating from Indonesia
You're welcome! Waves from the U.K.
Hi. Did you chang the assamby of rear axis to the same shaft which front axis is connected? Because if it assambles as on your movie it can not run, because front wheels will turn forward and rear backward. Or you have some additional gearbox? I have the same gearbox and I it only works when both axis were connected to the upper shaft of the gearbox.
Once assembled I had both axles going the wrong way like you, but just flipped the rear one upside down & that rectified the rotations (still on different output shafts at the transfer case).
Great video my friend. I have the same 370motor and metall gearbox with all the others stock.now its less powerfull like before,do i need to change esc and battery with 7.2 volt?
I think you might be better with a 2S Lipo to begin with but certainly upgrade the ESC etc in future (I've had nothing but trouble with countless stock boards and steering boxes)
The stock batterys are very weak but roughly go to 2S voltages.
Did you have to solder any capacitor between the motor connection?
I have not soldered a cap on the motor however I think my ESC has one.
When assembling the box you made a mistake.. the pinion gear on the output shaft should be the other way around so more of the short end of the shaft should protrude from the box. This enables you to have both drive shafts running off the same output and in the same direction...then you do not have to flip the differential over! It also makes the rear driveshaft angle far less acute going to the rear diff.
I would have loved to use it that way but there wasn't enough shaft on the motor to secure the pinion in the other orientatiion iirc.
@@MrE. no, it's the pinion on the OUTPUT shaft needs to be turned around, so the grub screw end is against the housing...that will move the shaft about another 5mm out of the box, so there's room to put your driveshaft on. That's how mine is. The gears won't be fully engaged either, in the configuration you have it in.
@@miningwayne935 Do the pinions line up after swapping that ones direction?
@@MrE. it should...mine did
This is a noob question, but why do I see some guys put the driveline in the top of the output shaft and some in the bottom?? Is that the whole gear reduction thing? Torque? Cause I built up a c14 with a tube frame and the same motor seems underpowered like this motor isn’t strong enough to get me over simpler things, feels like it’s barley enough to handle its own weight sometimes. Both my drivelines are on the same output shaft as I see yours is hooked up on the top and not the bottom output shaft I know my problem is not driveline binding.. so I need to hook the drive lines up different to the motor? I don’t want speed the slower the better for me
I appreciate it;)
That sounds quite odd especially if the motors the same.
All of the gear reduction is done in the gearing cylinder part that is attached to the motor. The transfer case with the outputs on is 1:1:1.
The reason some put it on different outputs is to get the right driveshaft rotation without needing to flip an axle. On one of mine I put front and rear driveshafts on the same resulting in the front and rear end went in opposite was which is kinda funny.
Mine is unstoppable with this motor/gearing - wonder if vendors have changed the motor/gearing over the last couple of years - this one was a premium original motor and transfer case.
How slow/fast is your C14 with this motor?
@@MrE. thanks for the response, after watching a few videos I see how the top output shaft spins the opposite way, it’s not terribly fast I don’t have any fancy tech for it, but I would imagine top speed is around 30-40 scale mph
Did you upgrade the esc and receiver too?
I started out with the kit and went straight to this brushed esc: bit.ly/2KfurBx & a Flysky radio setup.
I've had the esc running a 180, dual N20\N30's and now it runs the 370 fine powerd by a 2S Lipo, also have them running a C14 and other stuff quite happily.
I have a growing playlist documenting my journey with the WPLs here if your intrested: th-cam.com/play/PLqV89ugQ3QnkKYOrJjfAYV2AL20s0Oczq.html
Hi, ı want to buy for b24. As I understand, ı have to change 10a esc, battery (7.4 2s lippo) and metal drive shaft. Do I have to change transmitter ? Do ı need anything else ? thank you.
If you have the RTR B24 version you will need a transmitter setup inc servo as the onboard electronics are not reusable. I'd also get the 20/30A esc as it's exactly the same cost from memory.
That being said, take a look at my other videos, more specifically the 2 speed box upgrade as its a much better upgrade than this - this is very slow where as the 2speed box is both good for crawling with lots of power but can switch to high speed.
Can that motor be used with a 1/12 scale MN-90 defender?
It can & will be very torquey albeit a bit sluggish but I'd advise using a 2 speed box. see the playlist linked in the ( i ) top right as I have gone through pretty much every motor / combo for both WPL & MN stuff.
Why my metal transfer has opposite direction when i start throttling it.. the front goes forward and the rear goes backward.. what did you do to run it exactly???
You need to flip the rear axle & the front and rear will run in the same direction.
This transfer case sends contra rotating outputs where as the original was both on the same shaft, dont worry I did exactly the same but it only takes a couple of mins to fix.
@@MrE. ok thank for the info👍😉
Can I use stock drive shaft (plastic) with 370 motor?
You might be able to jerry rig them to "fit" but even on the stock 130/180 motors they were popping all the time - they are a friction fit at both ends and just a slip fit in the middle.
What is the output RPM fom that 370 reduction box?
There was no info on the output rpm from memory but it feels between 500-1000 approx.
It's much faster than the N20 & N30s I had previously which were 300 & 500rpm respectively.
Upon a quick search this is apparently 980rpm on the motors reduction gearbox & there is no ratio change in the transfer case.
Hope this helps!
How come my stock 180 motor is faster than the 370 motor even with 2s? Is your the same too?
This specific 370 has a rather extreme reduction gearing attached(see 2:40 ) but yes, mine is much slower than the 180 but it's unstoppable crawling with precision.
I have recently used a 2speed 370 box on the "MN D90 Ultimate upgrade" with good results having speed and crawling torque & I also have another style of these transfer boxes with a non reduced 370 I have yet to use which I presume will be a happy medium/much faster.
No doubt you could pick up a 370 dirt cheap and make it a bit faster using the pinion from this kit, hope this helps.
hi, that motor is better than c34km stock motor? i heard stock is not so good. i already received kit but i consider upgraded motor.
I would assume just at a glance they are very similar power/final drive speed however the one i feature in this video has replaceable brushes and mostly metal internals in the reduction box. I have no idea other than that off the cuff observation.
@@MrE. thx a lot. Good video. I subscribed .
@@sensualandu You're very welcome, If you need any other info - let me know and I'll do my upmost to help you out, Fella!
@@MrE. OK. I make a kit step by step slowly. Just I confuse screw size. But i tried to find suitale things. Haha. Thx MrE.
👍👍😊
Thanks!
I see My dual N20 mount :) I wonder to buy this motor but when i see how driveshaft is bend it drive Me crazy :D
I know N20 motor fail over time but I think I will go with that bigger slow dual motors instead due to dual power and better align on driveshaft.
You now will now so tell Me how it's compared to dual N20 ?? faster and less power ??
Your N20 design was a great help to use in the short term although I killed 3 motors with it :)
You could modify this to use the bottom output shaft and I believe some of the kits come like it now. I'd say this is a little faster than n20's but 10x more power.
I have been though nearly every type of motor/mount for the WPLs/JJRC and MN's and theres no perfect solution, the best I have is a 370 on a 2 speed box upgraded with metal internals. If I get around to it ,I have a vid with all the speed comparisons to edit somewhere. Thanks again for your design - I hope I put some traffic your way.
@@MrE. I confirm that N20 motors die over time but that bigger one not :D
Only problem is that bigger dual geared motors are much more slow but unstoppable :D
I think I will stick with that dual or order one of this just to test it :)
Can you run it without the reduction box?
Im sure you could with the included motor but I'd certainly look to put an after market one in that is a bit more suited to torque rather than higher rpms which the included one seems to be.
It's on my ever growing list to get around to.
Nice
Thanks!
This transmission is faster than the original?
@@jimr1raptor The only ones this is faster than are the n20 or n30 ones because it is quite well geared down for tonnes of torque. My B24 and MN90 with 180's are very fast and my sons c14 is faster with a 130 motor.
Mantullll👍👍
How much better is it than the n20/30s? I'm currently assembling mine using them :)
The n20/30's are very capable for crawling but I found their drawback was fragility when driving in alot of loose twigs that bound up the drivetrain. however I may just have been the usual unlucky one as always!
I did enjoy their upgrade immensly for crawling preceeding the 370 as you may have seen in previous vids of my onging saga with this WPL addiction.
The 370 and transfer box is night and day more robust, reliable & obviously alot more powerful. I'd advise getting a spare n20/30 to keep you going in the event of a "mishap". Another tip that helped me was wiring them with connectors to swap out quickly.
I did order a second set of motors just incase. My build aims at low center of gravity. Everything heavier from the bottom of the chassis. I just have to adjust the drives aft angles a bit. Thank you for the response!
@@RiderDecker You're welcome! Wise to have the spares handy for any of our hobbys.
I have seen people wrap Solder around their rims to give a bit lower CG that I'm considering depending how my fully builts handle in the comming season.
That's a really good idea! I'm using rc4wd 1.0 rims and their scrambler tires. Just need to get a hex adapter printed. I may try the kit tires and try weighing them down. My 20a esc burnt out using a 2s lipo within minutes. Ordered a 30a so I'm waiting on that, shocks, and hex adapters. Build will be running but not complete. The excitement is getting real! :)
@@RiderDecker Oh damn, what were you doing to blow the 20A ESC? The hex adapters are great to stick 1/10th on (have some Largefoots to try at some point) but considering some of the metal rims to keep it scale.
If you're in the UK I'd send you a set of adapters if need be.
Are you going to share your build when done on YT etc?
Здравствуйте товарищи, пожалуйста помогите разобраться мне в электронике и 370 ом моторе на шишиге 1:16.
Поставил 370 мотор на стандартную аппаратуру, просто фишки поменял, а мотор очень медленно едет, даже медленнее стандартного. Почему так?
Can I use a 380 brushed motor on the gearbox
Can't see why not if hte mouning lines up and you have the space!
I bought the motor fully assembled but I need to put in the longer shaft. How do you remove the grub screws?
A small Hex wrench, the case should be easy to open and locate the pinion to move to the longer shaft.
@@MrE. I can’t remove the gears in the smaller shaft. I need to put it on the bigger one.
@@tekayvoong5545 Should just be a single grub screw and it will slide off, If the grub screw is too tight you could prehaps heat it up to break the threadlock if it has it etc.
Should be realy easy to change.
@@MrE. What’s the size of the pinion gear for the motor? I want to try and fit a better motor on the gearbox.
@@tekayvoong5545 It's just a standard 21T pinion (from memory) to fit a 3mm~ motor shaft but something to consider is this box takes 3 identical pinions.
You could possibly fit a different pinion on the motor but you will have to make sure you have a bit of room for the motor to move in either direction depending on what size pinion you are changing to.
You may be better with one of the 2 pinion boxes which are coupled with a stubby input shaft to the motor that is mounted in a bracket.
That way you can gear the drivetrain with an appropriate motor rather than trying to juggle a motor with a reduction box, an input pinion and 2 meshing output pinions.
Hope this helps.
Will the gear box will fit in wpl c24
I just paired it up with a C14 chassis I have and it'll certainly fit but you may have to trim a little plastic of the electronics tray etc.
Ok bro
Firstly thanks for video, did realized big difference when you ugraded ?
There are a couple of huge differences:
Firstly you get a crazy amount of low end power, so much so that it will highlight weaknesses very fast!
Secondly , it is so geared down that you lose a lot of speed (hence where the power in the first point comes from) - It's a good or a bad difference depending what you are intending to do with the vehicle.
I have since moved onto 2 speed gearboxes as you get the best of both low end power & higher speed when you are just running around. There is a video of it on my channel somewhere.
Hope this helps.
Greating frim me
is it faster than stock now ?
Yes
Good wpl friend
Cheers!
Show,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Very soon, Friend!
torsi kuat suip
Thank you!