What impresses me is how much is done/demonstrated in just over 13 minutes! Any longtime MGB owner has to appreciate this! You expertise is invaluable to we MG maintainers.
Mr. Twist, Very helpful instruction, but the video quality itself has something to be desired especially in low-lighted areas making it hard to see and follow exactly what you're doing. I understand that often there is little room for an arm, much less a video camera, but a focused light, even a small LED flashlight would help. Many thanks
Thanks john. My 72 has what I believe to be an improperly synched drive gear (ran great for a long time till I had to tear the top end down and reset everything) that is causing me some major timing headaches. Like a no start and backfiring and airflow reversion. My rotor always faced 10-11 oclock at tdc.
If Cyc 4 is at top of the compression stoke, then Cyc1 is at top of exhaust stroke. Shouldn't either the exhaust or intake valves or both on 1 be slightly open and the rockers slightly tilted. It looked like all the valves were fully shut on all cylinders but maybe thats just the video. I suspect when you said cyc 4 rockers are loose is because both its valves are fully closed which implies its cams are just relaxed off the push rod which relaxes the rockers off the springs and that jiggle is the lash. The reverse is true for Cyc1, cams are pushing on pushrods and pushrods to rockers, on to the springs making them tight, but slight rocker movement should be visible on 1 . Having said all that, the jiggle method is pretty good tom but what if lash is set incorrectly on all rockers, a jiggle could point you to the wrong cyc, thats why I always look at the valve position.
it would have been helpful if you would have shown how you actually took the distributor out. that was why i was watching this in the first place. I bought a 7/16ths wrench to modify in order to get to the bolts holding the dist. down.
Hi Thats a great Video. I wonder if i can ask a question please. I have had the distributer out on our MG Midget 1275 1972 model, to replace the points. now I find; with the timing marks set up at 7 degrees before top dead centre, the rotor arm points the opposite way !!!!!! thus its never going to start. IS there an easy silly fault Ive made or could it be more serious please.
Unfortunately the timing marks do not extend beyond the 20 degree mark, so setting the total to 32 max. on >= 3000 tpm is not so easy. With the guidance on lower tpm (notably Haynes manual on 600 tpm, others, myself included on 1000 tpm), this problem does not appear. I do wonder how to go about it in measuring ths 32 degree value: a makeshift extra strip to be temporarily added to the existing marks?... PS max 32 is correct: static 10 + 22 degrees centrifugal advance (20-24 is specified)
Late reply but it may be helpful to others who still watch this video ....as i understood the video you need to turn the crank 360 degrees so that it is firing on No 1 cylinder before inserting the distributor shaft horizontally with the larger part upamost
What impresses me is how much is done/demonstrated in just over 13 minutes! Any longtime MGB owner has to appreciate this!
You expertise is invaluable to we MG maintainers.
John
Thank you so much for your informative video. You have walked me through a few jobs successfully on my 74 MGB roadster. I greatly appreciate it.
Mr. Twist, Very helpful instruction, but the video quality itself has something to be desired especially in low-lighted areas making it hard to see and follow exactly what you're doing. I understand that often there is little room for an arm, much less a video camera, but a focused light, even a small LED flashlight would help.
Many thanks
Thanks John, really enjoy your video here in the Netherlands.
Thanks john. My 72 has what I believe to be an improperly synched drive gear (ran great for a long time till I had to tear the top end down and reset everything) that is causing me some major timing headaches. Like a no start and backfiring and airflow reversion. My rotor always faced 10-11 oclock at tdc.
Update, she's alive. Thanks for your altruistic distribution of knowledge John.
A spotlight would be a useful addition.
Yes John a small light in your work area would be useful, and an improvement.
saved my butt! thanks John!
If Cyc 4 is at top of the compression stoke, then Cyc1 is at top of exhaust stroke. Shouldn't either the exhaust or intake valves or both on 1 be slightly open and the rockers slightly tilted. It looked like all the valves were fully shut on all cylinders but maybe thats just the video. I suspect when you said cyc 4 rockers are loose is because both its valves are fully closed which implies its cams are just relaxed off the push rod which relaxes the rockers off the springs and that jiggle is the lash. The reverse is true for Cyc1, cams are pushing on pushrods and pushrods to rockers, on to the springs making them tight, but slight rocker movement should be visible on 1 . Having said all that, the jiggle method is pretty good tom but what if lash is set incorrectly on all rockers, a jiggle could point you to the wrong cyc, thats why I always look at the valve position.
it would have been helpful if you would have shown how you actually took the distributor out.
that was why i was watching this in the first place. I bought a 7/16ths wrench to modify in order to get to the bolts holding the dist. down.
Hi Thats a great Video. I wonder if i can ask a question please. I have had the distributer out on our MG Midget 1275 1972 model, to replace the points. now I find; with the timing marks set up at 7 degrees before top dead centre, the rotor arm points the opposite way !!!!!! thus its never going to start. IS there an easy silly fault Ive made or could it be more serious please.
John- How about a light for that spiffy high-end vidcam you're using? Vic
Unfortunately the timing marks do not extend beyond the 20 degree mark, so setting the total to 32 max. on >= 3000 tpm is not so easy. With the guidance on lower tpm (notably Haynes manual on 600 tpm, others, myself included on 1000 tpm), this problem does not appear. I do wonder how to go about it in measuring ths 32 degree value: a makeshift extra strip to be temporarily added to the existing marks?...
PS max 32 is correct: static 10 + 22 degrees centrifugal advance (20-24 is specified)
If you have the dots on timing wheels together, firing on 4, and insert the gear, with large side up will, It insert correctly?
Late reply but it may be helpful to others who still watch this video ....as i understood the video you need to turn the crank 360 degrees so that it is firing on No 1 cylinder before inserting the distributor shaft horizontally with the larger part upamost
So, just to make sure, when using the timing light, I should keep the vacuum line attached, and look for 32 degrees max total advance?