one question though: why put the vertical table where you did instead of in the front of the machine? I hate leaning over stuff and wouldn't want to give up that much travel (I only have a 4x4 pro.) I *think* that with the geometry of the machine/gantry/spindle, the bit goes in front of that first front stretcher, but maybe not far enough for what you are looking for? For adjusting the table to be in line with the Z axis, I love the dial indicator setup you had but was wondering how you performed the adjustment -- did you have a grub screw in the maple block on the bottom?
Good questions! Yes, the spindle will reach about 1" in front of the machine; once you add a sheet of MDF (or two) you will lose any cutting ability. So, a lot of people just move that first horizontal 80/40 extrusion (the stretcher) back a bit -- say 6" or so, and then you can cut up to 4" tenons. Having it a little distance back doesn't hurt too much for rigidity. If I only wanted a vertical table, I would do this approach, and that might be a good approach for you to do. Mine is set back to the second horizontal stretcher so I can eventually put a rotary table in this spot. I wanted to have double-duty for the space. Ideally, if I had room, I would have gotten a 10' length table to have some dedicated space for both things; rotary table at the back, vertical table at the front, and still cut an 8' sheet of plywood. Z-axis adjustment: I should have talked about this more. I slotted that bottom piece of wood, so all I had to do was loosen the bolt drilled into my steel table and tap the piece back or forward a bit until I had no runout on the dial indicator. If I had a regular Avid CNC 80/40 legs, I would have just used a piece of 80/40 across the front legs for the bottom support -- this might require some type of grub screw or shims to get it spaced just right, although, the extrusions are pretty darn straight.
A few suggestions: 1. A vacuum press would have been the ideal clamping system to use when bonding the spoilboard slats to the vertical base. However, as far as I'm concerned, a more flexible route, and one which allows you to replace the spoilboard slats if they ever get damaged or you decide to change the location of the clamping dog holes, would be to screw them to the vertical base before milling them true on the CNC. 2. Aligning the table once it was temporarily bolted into position could have been done with even a very thin piece of parallel wood, as long as it's held firmly against the top of your reference dog holes. This would require you to check the dial indicator's reading at the top of each dog. Thanks for sharing your approach with us. I am planning to do a similar vertical milling system, which will feature those aspects of you that I like. Cheers from Canada! Marty
Yeah, it will open up a lot of possibilities - I'm quite surprised that a lot of standard woodworking CNC machines don't put a priority on having a vertical work table (ie: Laguna, Phantom, Grizzly, etc)
I really appreciate the level of detail you provide with your problem solving. My CNC will allow me to move my gantry 3.2" forward over the front of the table, so I have been thinking about adding a vertical table there. I can see that I will have to do a fair bit of work to my support table before I can think about the vertical table. The steps you went thru and shared will be a huge help. Thank you!
Another great video. I have an Avid 5x10. Followed much from Jay Bates. I did my spoilboard same as you. Curious, did you drill dog holes through both layers of MDF? I didnt, because some line up with the aluminum frame. But now that ive resurfaced a couple times, the holes are getting shallow and dogs are sloppy, especially my G55 and most used offsets
My dog holes only go through the 1st layer. I haven't resurfaced the table yet, but it is starting to need it. I'm trying to do all through cuts so they don't cut into the table, and preserving it. I like this approach better, and another "mini" spoilboard on top for when I do need to cut into it. But that doesn't work for big projects (ie: 4x8' sheets), and you just have to do it.
one question though: why put the vertical table where you did instead of in the front of the machine? I hate leaning over stuff and wouldn't want to give up that much travel (I only have a 4x4 pro.) I *think* that with the geometry of the machine/gantry/spindle, the bit goes in front of that first front stretcher, but maybe not far enough for what you are looking for? For adjusting the table to be in line with the Z axis, I love the dial indicator setup you had but was wondering how you performed the adjustment -- did you have a grub screw in the maple block on the bottom?
Good questions! Yes, the spindle will reach about 1" in front of the machine; once you add a sheet of MDF (or two) you will lose any cutting ability. So, a lot of people just move that first horizontal 80/40 extrusion (the stretcher) back a bit -- say 6" or so, and then you can cut up to 4" tenons. Having it a little distance back doesn't hurt too much for rigidity. If I only wanted a vertical table, I would do this approach, and that might be a good approach for you to do.
Mine is set back to the second horizontal stretcher so I can eventually put a rotary table in this spot. I wanted to have double-duty for the space. Ideally, if I had room, I would have gotten a 10' length table to have some dedicated space for both things; rotary table at the back, vertical table at the front, and still cut an 8' sheet of plywood.
Z-axis adjustment: I should have talked about this more. I slotted that bottom piece of wood, so all I had to do was loosen the bolt drilled into my steel table and tap the piece back or forward a bit until I had no runout on the dial indicator. If I had a regular Avid CNC 80/40 legs, I would have just used a piece of 80/40 across the front legs for the bottom support -- this might require some type of grub screw or shims to get it spaced just right, although, the extrusions are pretty darn straight.
@@CorbinDunn thanks so much for the reply! Your information is always the best. Love the videos, thank you!!!
A few suggestions:
1. A vacuum press would have been the ideal clamping system to use when bonding the spoilboard slats to the vertical base. However, as far as I'm concerned, a more flexible route, and one which allows you to replace the spoilboard slats if they ever get damaged or you decide to change the location of the clamping dog holes, would be to screw them to the vertical base before milling them true on the CNC.
2. Aligning the table once it was temporarily bolted into position could have been done with even a very thin piece of parallel wood, as long as it's held firmly against the top of your reference dog holes. This would require you to check the dial indicator's reading at the top of each dog.
Thanks for sharing your approach with us. I am planning to do a similar vertical milling system, which will feature those aspects of you that I like.
Cheers from Canada!
Marty
Thanks Marty! My original work table design did include screw on slats for the reasons you mentioned, so we definitely think alike!
really wish i had the ability to mount a vertical table on my cnc, all sorts of exotic joints come to mind, have fun Corbin .
Yeah, it will open up a lot of possibilities - I'm quite surprised that a lot of standard woodworking CNC machines don't put a priority on having a vertical work table (ie: Laguna, Phantom, Grizzly, etc)
Nice job! I too have been wanting a vertical surface. Great ideas to incorporate into mine. Can't wait to see what you do with it. Thanks.
Awesome - let me know if you have anything else that you think would work well with the design.
I really appreciate the level of detail you provide with your problem solving. My CNC will allow me to move my gantry 3.2" forward over the front of the table, so I have been thinking about adding a vertical table there. I can see that I will have to do a fair bit of work to my support table before I can think about the vertical table. The steps you went thru and shared will be a huge help. Thank you!
cool! Yeah, if you have the space in front, definitely add the vertical table. Check out some of my recent videos for what I've been using it for.
Great timing, I've been thinking along these lines too.
Cool -- if you think up any other "must have" ideas, let me know!
@@CorbinDunn Don't know about 'must have', but I also intend to open up the middle of my table to do 4 sided carves on larger pieces.
Some great ideas in here, thanks for this!
Thanks! I'm starting to think of new things I wish I'd done -- such as another row of dog holes closer to the top for aligning small vertical pieces.
@@CorbinDunn you'll probably have to go through a few designs before you land on the one that has everything you need.
Another great video. I have an Avid 5x10. Followed much from Jay Bates. I did my spoilboard same as you. Curious, did you drill dog holes through both layers of MDF? I didnt, because some line up with the aluminum frame. But now that ive resurfaced a couple times, the holes are getting shallow and dogs are sloppy, especially my G55 and most used offsets
My dog holes only go through the 1st layer. I haven't resurfaced the table yet, but it is starting to need it. I'm trying to do all through cuts so they don't cut into the table, and preserving it. I like this approach better, and another "mini" spoilboard on top for when I do need to cut into it. But that doesn't work for big projects (ie: 4x8' sheets), and you just have to do it.
Really nice work! Thanks
Thank you!
Could you use the t track and clamps to hold the top layer down for the glue up?
I bet you could! I didn't even think of trying that.
Nice design Corbin. I like those low profile toe clamps, are those also your design, if so are they on your site?
Thanks Jason! Yeah, those are my design - I do sell the files for printing; I'll send you a copy as thanks for all the stuff you've done!
*Promo SM* 💋
Haha! Sure ;). Just trying to help people out.