The engineering in these locomotives is so good, they are designed to be repaired and serviced, a world away from the can motor and computer board on todays models. Nice video thanks as ever
That was quite an adventure and no doubt will a great resource for anyone who has issues with repairing their own 671 Turbine. I admire the care you take in disassembling and putting everything back in place so that the engine operates satisfactorily. Nice work all around.
Thanks so much. I really do hope people can turn to these videos for help when they need it. I’m thrilled with how the 671 is performing. Such a great engine.
Great job Dave, and a fine tutorial for anyone with one of those engines! And anytime you reassemble something with the least amount of parts left over and the thing still works it's a good day! 🤩
I just did this very same project last week, except I also rebuilt the e-unit. The brushes can be accessed tough the two screws on the back of the “atomic” motor. I am sad that you’re skipping smoke. The 1946 Turbine has a really cool distinctive effect with the smoke. My light receptacle was in real bad shape. I ended up soaking it in vinegar for a couple hours. That worked well. The e-unit wire is a simple solder of a tip on a new piece of wire. Pull the pin thru the sleeve.
Dave, your turbines are really nice models. I have a couple of the 681's and enjoy running them myself. The 671 is definitely a different beast from the 681. I have never seen an E unit mounted horizontally like that before. I thought they had to be oriented vertically for gravity to be effective at returning the pal to the downward position. However, it seemed to work remarkably well. As far as refabing diecast, I heat it in the oven at 250 degrees for about 20 minutes to gradually reshape it carefully. I have successfully straightened several bent steam engine cabs in this manner using a block of wood cut to the shape of the cab and clamped in place in the oven abd then lightly tapping it with a small ball pen hammer while still warm. Diecast is a soft maluble metal that softens with heat and prevents it from breaking or shearing off by applying gradual deflection by slight tapping while being supported by backing to absorb the shock. You shouldn't be using enough force to mar the surface of the metal. Using pliers without heat and bending too sharp and quick always produces shearing on diecast. It requires increments of slight manipulation a little at a time with the painstakingly patience of a saint. Be carful with heat as diecast will melt in a pool like solider if to much heat is applied as what can happen using a solidering gun on diecast. I find using a scotch brite pad very effective at burnishing corroded and rusty hand rails or the brass and copper fingers and drums of E units back to bright shiny metal surfaces. By burnishing the metal contact surfaces of the E unit it will restore them to like new characteristics in most instances entirely eliminating E unit humming. While contactor cleaner is effective at removing years of gunk there is no substitute for removing the oxidation by burnishing and then coat with an electric oxide inhibitor like NO OX ID, or CRC 2-26 in the small blue can. Some people claim INOX is a good inhibitor but I have never used this product. NO OX ID is an electrically conductive grease and a metal oxide inhibitor. A little goes a long way. Its a grease but should be applied in a micro thin coat best by wiping with a finger so only a thin film is applied by what's absorb in ones skin. I have coated my tubular track with it and have not had to clean my track once in 4 years now, and my engines will creap at a consistent speed around all my loops, and I run conventionally. And no I don't have a problem pulling long consists or any problems with wheel slip. Use only micro coatings people.
Wow thanks for all that info. I’ll keep it in mind for future repairs. There are a few engines with the horizontal e-unit: early 671, 726, 773, and maybe others. I believe a small light spring is used over the paul to push it back out when power is removed.
Another wonderful video. Thanks Dave, you got a little beyond my comfort zone on tearing apart the wheels, but congrats for getting them back together. I think you have two other turbines to service, ha!
I'm repairing the exact same engine for a friend. You're exactly right. This is the first time I've worked on one of these, and it had a lot of odd parts. The thin power connector that passes through the chassis from the roller pickups was broken, and I couldn't locate a replacement. I simply used a wire to bring the power from the rollers to inside the chassis. I see the Smoke Lamps are going for over $20 on eBay. Yikes!
Glad I found your channel! I'm about to buy my first vintage Lionel! I was wondering have you ever tried to use ultrasonic cleaner on some of those components? I restore small antiques and it's very helpful specially when you don't want to take everything apart or have really tight places you can't reach.
Hi and welcome aboard! Your first vintage Lionel, great! They are the best and rewarding to work on. An ultrasonic cleaner has been recommended to me a number of times so I know people use them. Part of the philosophy of my repairs is that I try to use just basic stuff most people would already own. But a cleaner like that is very tempting. If you end up using one for small parts, please let me know how you like it.
Well, I hope i don't have to ralk the six wheel truck apart, but the rear truck last axel is bent! When I get it running if derails. I will need to take it off to straighten it! Maybe!? 😊
Hey Dave, I bought another turbine, n the first blind driver is frozen, it will not turn. All the other wheels turn freely. My question is, do you think pulling the wheels to find out what's making it not turn will cause more problems? Thanks for your opinion. 😊
Dave, I see there are two gears driven by the worm at both outer axles. It leads me to think the center two axles are only rotating via the links. Are these two inner axles only for appearance, not applying any torque? No gears on inner axles? Interesting drive design, quite different from any Lionel steamers I have.
I guess you could say the front and rear axles are actively driven and the middle two are passively driven by the side rods. All other 671s 681s are only geared on the rear axle, so then it’s only one actively driven axle.
The engineering in these locomotives is so good, they are designed to be repaired and serviced, a world away from the can motor and computer board on todays models. Nice video thanks as ever
That was quite an adventure and no doubt will a great resource for anyone who has issues with repairing their own 671 Turbine. I admire the care you take in disassembling and putting everything back in place so that the engine operates satisfactorily. Nice work all around.
Thanks so much. I really do hope people can turn to these videos for help when they need it.
I’m thrilled with how the 671 is performing. Such a great engine.
Great job Dave, and a fine tutorial for anyone with one of those engines!
And anytime you reassemble something with the least amount of parts left over and the thing still works it's a good day! 🤩
Now that I have two turbines , watching two turbines run is a lot of fun
good video -it was outstanding. I really like the way you do stuff like most of us would.
Thank you! That’s my goal with a lot of my videos. Basics. No crazy tools or skills needed.
I just did this very same project last week, except I also rebuilt the e-unit. The brushes can be accessed tough the two screws on the back of the “atomic” motor. I am sad that you’re skipping smoke. The 1946 Turbine has a really cool distinctive effect with the smoke.
My light receptacle was in real bad shape. I ended up soaking it in vinegar for a couple hours. That worked well. The e-unit wire is a simple solder of a tip on a new piece of wire. Pull the pin thru the sleeve.
Thank you Dave excellent show
Thanks so much
Good video. Dish soap is a good degreaser. There is no way I was going to take the trucks apart on mine. I love those turbine engines.
I use diluted dish soap quite a bit. I do kinda regret taking the front and rear trucks apart. Oh well, lesson learned.
I sure love mine.
Great video Dave! I wish I had the 671 with the 6 wheel truck tender
Great video thanks for the learning experience 🚂😎👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Very interesting to see one of these taken apart.
They are a unique design and pretty easy to work on
@@dagryffynhobby Love seeing and learning about this hobby.
Dave, your turbines are really nice models. I have a couple of the 681's and enjoy running them myself. The 671 is definitely a different beast from the 681. I have never seen an E unit mounted horizontally like that before. I thought they had to be oriented vertically for gravity to be effective at returning the pal to the downward position. However, it seemed to work remarkably well.
As far as refabing diecast, I heat it in the oven at 250 degrees for about 20 minutes to gradually reshape it carefully. I have successfully straightened several bent steam engine cabs in this manner using a block of wood cut to the shape of the cab and clamped in place in the oven abd then lightly tapping it with a small ball pen hammer while still warm. Diecast is a soft maluble metal that softens with heat and prevents it from breaking or shearing off by applying gradual deflection by slight tapping while being supported by backing to absorb the shock. You shouldn't be using enough force to mar the surface of the metal. Using pliers without heat and bending too sharp and quick always produces shearing on diecast. It requires increments of slight manipulation a little at a time with the painstakingly patience of a saint. Be carful with heat as diecast will melt in a pool like solider if to much heat is applied as what can happen using a solidering gun on diecast.
I find using a scotch brite pad very effective at burnishing corroded and rusty hand rails or the brass and copper fingers and drums of E units back to bright shiny metal surfaces. By burnishing the metal contact surfaces of the E unit it will restore them to like new characteristics in most instances entirely eliminating E unit humming. While contactor cleaner is effective at removing years of gunk there is no substitute for removing the oxidation by burnishing and then coat with an electric oxide inhibitor like NO OX ID, or CRC 2-26 in the small blue can. Some people claim INOX is a good inhibitor but I have never used this product. NO OX ID is an electrically conductive grease and a metal oxide inhibitor. A little goes a long way. Its a grease but should be applied in a micro thin coat best by wiping with a finger so only a thin film is applied by what's absorb in ones skin. I have coated my tubular track with it and have not had to clean my track once in 4 years now, and my engines will creap at a consistent speed around all my loops, and I run conventionally. And no I don't have a problem pulling long consists or any problems with wheel slip. Use only micro coatings people.
Wow thanks for all that info. I’ll keep it in mind for future repairs.
There are a few engines with the horizontal e-unit: early 671, 726, 773, and maybe others. I believe a small light spring is used over the paul to push it back out when power is removed.
Great video, Dave. Other than the pesky smoke units, I find the '46 #671 to be an excellent locomotive. Enjoy! 😊
I’ve been really happy with it so far but yeah I would t buy one for the smoke unit. I’m tempted to replace this one.
I would leave it original
Another wonderful video. Thanks Dave, you got a little beyond my comfort zone on tearing apart the wheels, but congrats for getting them back together. I think you have two other turbines to service, ha!
Super service job! I got a lot out of it. What to do and what to stay away from. Looks great! Thanks Dave.
Thanks. Glad the video is helpful
I'm repairing the exact same engine for a friend. You're exactly right. This is the first time I've worked on one of these, and it had a lot of odd parts. The thin power connector that passes through the chassis from the roller pickups was broken, and I couldn't locate a replacement. I simply used a wire to bring the power from the rollers to inside the chassis. I see the Smoke Lamps are going for over $20 on eBay. Yikes!
A classic and solid engine. I’d say the metal strip is kinda pointless, why they didn’t just use a wire in the first place I don’t know.
Looks good!
Thank you!
i have a fleet of marx 1666 locos including two grey ones with the santa fe sound of power slope tender.
Nice!
Glad I found your channel! I'm about to buy my first vintage Lionel! I was wondering have you ever tried to use ultrasonic cleaner on some of those components? I restore small antiques and it's very helpful specially when you don't want to take everything apart or have really tight places you can't reach.
Hi and welcome aboard! Your first vintage Lionel, great! They are the best and rewarding to work on.
An ultrasonic cleaner has been recommended to me a number of times so I know people use them.
Part of the philosophy of my repairs is that I try to use just basic stuff most people would already own. But a cleaner like that is very tempting. If you end up using one for small parts, please let me know how you like it.
@@dagryffynhobby I will let you know how it goes! Do you have an email address? Thanks for replying!
Edwin
Well, I hope i don't have to ralk the six wheel truck apart, but the rear truck last axel is bent! When I get it running if derails. I will need to take it off to straighten it! Maybe!? 😊
Oh no! If you can manage without taking the truck apart I would try that. Maybe two pairs of pliers?
Hey Dave, I bought another turbine, n the first blind driver is frozen, it will not turn. All the other wheels turn freely. My question is, do you think pulling the wheels to find out what's making it not turn will cause more problems? Thanks for your opinion. 😊
Dave, I see there are two gears driven by the worm at both outer axles. It leads me to think the center two axles are only rotating via the links. Are these two inner axles only for appearance, not applying any torque? No gears on inner axles? Interesting drive design, quite different from any Lionel steamers I have.
I guess you could say the front and rear axles are actively driven and the middle two are passively driven by the side rods. All other 671s 681s are only geared on the rear axle, so then it’s only one actively driven axle.
Hello. Could you please remind me what type and part number of the specific Lionel SMOKE PELLETS are used for the 671-75 Smoke Bulb? Thanks
I believe it was the early version smoke pellet, the 196. Later replaced by the SP.
I was waiting for the part where after taking that much dirt off a 6-8-6 you discovered it was really only a Scout 2-4-2.
ROFL - hilarious!
Hahahaha! Love it!
😊👍
Dave, what spray are you using to clean up parts? Tuner cleaner? WD-40?
I’ve used wd-40, electronic cleaner, and inox, depending on which part and how dirty.
Dave what are you spraying on the brush plate is it contact cleaner?
Yup. Contact cleaner
if it ran well before it should do twice as good now!
It runs fantastically now!