Your tip to pry the pads back while still on the brackets was invaluable! I used to take the brackets off with the pads still in there and use a big C clamp to push them back, but that is awkward as the bracket would move freely while trying to apply pressure. Your way works soooo much better! Thank you
What a great tutorial, we are about to perform the exact same job today and it is all very clear after watching this. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us
JIm your videos are the best. I used your videos to change pads and rotors on 2004 Infiniti FX35 (getting one of the rotors off was a major challenge) and here for the 2013 Jeep Wrangler brake pads. Everything you said and did is spot on. I am far from an expert but after doing these brakes I feel confident in tackling any brake job. Thank you for your amazing videos, the way you deliver the content, and your sense of humour (love the ending - you better pump those brakes or you might find yourself in big trouble).
Terrific video Jim! Really helped me on my 16 JKU. Really good video quality and commentary. Brake squeal is gone. Great tip on not twisting the brake line. I think the only thing I was stuck on for a minute was the positioning of my new clips (high side placement). Thanks for publishing this!
Thank you very much!!!! I followed the instructions step by step and BANG!!!! I got the job done. You, sir, are an excellent video teacher. Thank you again
Little tip... The pad with the silver " Warning Scrubber" attached goes on the same side of the bracket that the bolt heads are. The pads look alike and it can be comfusing if you didn't notice when removing the old ones
I learned about pumping up the brake pedal when you are finished after changing the front rotors, and brake pads on a 1987 S-10 Blazer I own. I got the job done, but had to pump them up once I completed the work on the brakes. My newer vehicles are easy to work on since I know what to do, and have so many special tools to make the work easier.
If the E-brake is holding on to the rotor, you can back off the e-brake shoes by going to the backing plate, remove the oval shaped plug (save it to put it back when you are done) and use a screwdriver or a brake spoon to back off the adjuster star wheel. Then, once the new rotor is on, readjust it with the rotor on to make sure you are not dragging and that it is adjusted enough to engage properly. Torque Specs for 2016 Jeep Wrangler JKU (applies to most Wranglers 2008-2018): REAR Caliper Brackets: 77 Ft. Lbs. Front Caliper Brackets: 100 Ft. Lbs. Slider Pins: 26 Ft. Lbs. Wheel Lugs: 122 Ft. Lbs. You can apply 'never seize' to the hub after removing rust (where the inside rotor face meets the hub and lugs) to keep it from fusing in the future. (a little goes a long way). Grease for the pad hardware and slider pins MUST be HIGH TEMPERATURE grease. Silicone grease is recommended. Regular grease will 'liquefy' at much lower temps and can contaminate the pads and rotor surface.
I think a shop could almost survive on doing brakes. For every car there are four brakes! :) I hope you have a blessed Christmas and a healthy New Year Jim.
great video, i might add that when you push the pads back in, your pushing fluid back through the system. you should keep an eye on the level and make sure it doesn't come out the reservoir. I also like to flush the lines with new fluid, and bleed them. Not always necessary, but good measure.
do you have any tips on replacing the parking brake shoes, I'm doing my rear pads and rotors at the same time is there an adjustment on the parking brake cable or just the adjuster nut.
I have to truly thank you for your excellent video and tips. As the firs time I’ve change brakes on my JK, you made life so much easier. I was able to have all the right tools ready to make it a smooth and fun job. You are a blessed soul!
You failed to show the E-Brake adjustment location and functionality behind the brake housing. One of my brake rotors the e-Brake had broken and stayed nearly engaged, it formed a wear line that almost prevented me from getting the rotor off the hub. If not for a neighbor that knew about the adjuster I'd still be working on trying to get it off (spent 3 hours before, and another hour after trying after opening the adjuster all the way). Definitely, something to show on anything to do with the rear brakes, unless you WANT to replace all your e-Brake pads and springs...
Thanks a bunch. Your video was very helpful with my brake job. One thing that I noticed is that the factory slide pin bolts on the calipers had some RED loctite from factory. I went a head and put a rop or two upon reassembly but I did not hear you cover that. Is is necessary?
DON'T PRY THE PADS! the brake Caliber piston is made out of plastic and will be damaged by doing this. PS always make sure you are working with a ASE technician.
Brad Goodin You can do this but it's not necessary. Moreover I used to see some People doing "Bleeder Valve loose" for Vehicles BMW and Mercedes while often people don't practice these for these Vehicles as well. You can see for BMW and Mercedes brake job videos in TH-cam.
Yes, you should & you should bleed the brakes, too. The cruddy fluid is inside the caliper and you certainly don't want to push that stuff back up through the ABS module.
TECHNICALLY THE procedure prolly says u should but ask anyone in ny or the salt belt and il betr they tell u they dont touch bleeders unless they absolutley have to. ive done tons of brake jobs just like this and nev er had one issue. around here bleeders seize up quick andif u break it off a simple break job just got shitty fast. no need to open them when depressing piston as far as im concered. ill bet eric o would agree
Wow! Nice Jimmy! Rear break job - one wheel - done in about 18 minutes. ;^) That's .3 per wheel. So rear brakes on a Wrangler are just about .6 hours maybe another .2 for jacking it up and pulling the wheels off. Right?
You have no idea what you are talking about! If it was your personal car you can take a gamble but as a professional I can't take a gamble with my customer's well being.
I know this video is five years old but it's one of the best out there. Cheers!
Your tip to pry the pads back while still on the brackets was invaluable! I used to take the brackets off with the pads still in there and use a big C clamp to push them back, but that is awkward as the bracket would move freely while trying to apply pressure. Your way works soooo much better! Thank you
do not do. the brake piston are made out of plastic and will crack.
you working on a mall crawler city jeep.
What a great tutorial, we are about to perform the exact same job today and it is all very clear after watching this. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us
What’s appealing about your vids beside your knowledge is your humility. You never trash talk, you stick to the script and that is refreshing.
JIm your videos are the best. I used your videos to change pads and rotors on 2004 Infiniti FX35 (getting one of the rotors off was a major challenge) and here for the 2013 Jeep Wrangler brake pads. Everything you said and did is spot on. I am far from an expert but after doing these brakes I feel confident in tackling any brake job. Thank you for your amazing videos, the way you deliver the content, and your sense of humour (love the ending - you better pump those brakes or you might find yourself in big trouble).
Terrific video Jim! Really helped me on my 16 JKU. Really good video quality and commentary. Brake squeal is gone. Great tip on not twisting the brake line. I think the only thing I was stuck on for a minute was the positioning of my new clips (high side placement). Thanks for publishing this!
I'm happy to help. Watch for the next free tool giveaway coming soon.
Well done. Between you and a few other videos I saved about $500 doing my own brake pads.
Thank you for watching . Don't forget to subscribe.
Thank you very much!!!! I followed the instructions step by step and BANG!!!! I got the job done. You, sir, are an excellent video teacher. Thank you again
Little tip...
The pad with the silver " Warning Scrubber" attached goes on the same side of the bracket that the bolt heads are. The pads look alike and it can be comfusing if you didn't notice when removing the old ones
Thank You for taking to the time to create this video! I changed my rear brakes/rotors yesterday!
I'm happy to help. Watch for the next free tool giveaway coming soon.
I learned about pumping up the brake pedal when you are finished after changing the front rotors, and brake pads on a 1987 S-10 Blazer I own. I got the job done, but had to pump them up once I completed the work on the brakes. My newer vehicles are easy to work on since I know what to do, and have so many special tools to make the work easier.
If the E-brake is holding on to the rotor, you can back off the e-brake shoes by going to the backing plate, remove the oval shaped plug (save it to put it back when you are done) and use a screwdriver or a brake spoon to back off the adjuster star wheel. Then, once the new rotor is on, readjust it with the rotor on to make sure you are not dragging and that it is adjusted enough to engage properly.
Torque Specs for 2016 Jeep Wrangler JKU (applies to most Wranglers 2008-2018):
REAR Caliper Brackets: 77 Ft. Lbs.
Front Caliper Brackets: 100 Ft. Lbs.
Slider Pins: 26 Ft. Lbs.
Wheel Lugs: 122 Ft. Lbs.
You can apply 'never seize' to the hub after removing rust (where the inside rotor face meets the hub and lugs) to keep it from fusing in the future. (a little goes a long way).
Grease for the pad hardware and slider pins MUST be HIGH TEMPERATURE grease. Silicone grease is recommended. Regular grease will 'liquefy' at much lower temps and can contaminate the pads and rotor surface.
Everyone should read this post and use the information
Definitely the best, most comprehensive, vid I've seen on brake work. Well done!
Thank you for watching
Very well done and your expertise is apparent. I look forward to other videos.
Stephen Fenton Appreciate the comment, thanks for watching.
Just curious, so all I have to do is just pump the brakes after replacing? Do I bleed the brake lines?
Thanks a bunch for this video. Replaced my brakes and rotors today and it was easy thanks to your instructions.
Glad it helped
Remember to loosen the master cylinder cap
I think a shop could almost survive on doing brakes. For every car there are four brakes! :) I hope you have a blessed Christmas and a healthy New Year Jim.
Thank you, just completed the job while watching your video
Great. I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching.
great video, i might add that when you push the pads back in, your pushing fluid back through the system. you should keep an eye on the level and make sure it doesn't come out the reservoir. I also like to flush the lines with new fluid, and bleed them. Not always necessary, but good measure.
I thought pushing the fluid like that into the ABS manifold was a bad thing?
Thank you. How about opening the master cylinder to prevent any brake fluid overflowing when you retreat the caliper piston?
Yes that is good advice especially if the master cylinder was over filled. Thanks for your input.
do you have any tips on replacing the parking brake shoes, I'm doing my rear pads and rotors at the same time is there an adjustment on the parking brake cable or just the adjuster nut.
Hey Jim thanks for helping me out with the brake job.
Glad to help
Love watching your videos, Jim.
Thanks for your time. 🎁
I have to truly thank you for your excellent video and tips. As the firs time I’ve change brakes on my JK, you made life so much easier. I was able to have all the right tools ready to make it a smooth and fun job. You are a blessed soul!
Awesome video l always look forward to seeing your next video. Thank you so much for sharing them. I hope you have a blessed week.
Thomas Tommy Thank you and you also. I appreciate you watching.
You failed to show the E-Brake adjustment location and functionality behind the brake housing. One of my brake rotors the e-Brake had broken and stayed nearly engaged, it formed a wear line that almost prevented me from getting the rotor off the hub. If not for a neighbor that knew about the adjuster I'd still be working on trying to get it off (spent 3 hours before, and another hour after trying after opening the adjuster all the way). Definitely, something to show on anything to do with the rear brakes, unless you WANT to replace all your e-Brake pads and springs...
Jim, thank you for the great video. It's one of the best ones I've seen about brakes. I'll subscribe now. Thanks again!
Jim Awesome video
Your a lifesaver for the do it yourself person.
One question do the the brakes need to be bled ?
No that don't unless you open a brake line or bleeder valve. Great job.Thanks for watching.
Do u have video on how to the drum brake pads. I just did this. Took me like an hour to get that rotor off. It was on holding for dear life lol
Is the torque on all the nuts necessary ? I ask because you didn't mention it .
Thanks a bunch. Your video was very helpful with my brake job.
One thing that I noticed is that the factory slide pin bolts on the calipers had some RED loctite from factory. I went a head and put a rop or two upon reassembly but I did not hear you cover that. Is is necessary?
The lock tight is not needed.Good question.
Excellent explanation and demonstration, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you! Very kind of you to share your wisdom with others.
Thank you for watching . Don't forget to subscribe.
Hi Jim, is it a good idea to add ant-seize or Loctite to the caliper bolts . excellent and easy to understand videos
very well explained ... thank you!
Great video learned alot .
what kind of grease are you using
Thanks a bunch. No more c clamp for me. Great Tech Tip!
Thank you for the detailed description !!! Greetings from Gemany
Hey jim how much do u charge for a toyota camry 08 axle passenger side axle
Why add grease to the abutment clips, it just binds do dust and rust particles
Great video, big help like all ways.
DON'T PRY THE PADS!
the brake Caliber piston is made out of plastic and will be damaged by doing this.
PS always make sure you are working with a ASE technician.
I can’t get the Caliper mounting bracket off. That thin bar is too close and I cant get any tool in there >:(((((
Very well explained thank you for your video.
You are welcome!
Thank you for this. I have to my rear brakes this spring.
Thank you for watching good luck.
Excellent instruction. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Should you open up the bleeder valve before prying the piston back on the caliper?
Brad Goodin
Brad Goodin You can do this but it's not necessary. Moreover I used to see some People doing "Bleeder Valve loose" for Vehicles BMW and Mercedes while often people don't practice these for these Vehicles as well.
You can see for BMW and Mercedes brake job videos in TH-cam.
Yes, you should & you should bleed the brakes, too. The cruddy fluid is inside the caliper and you certainly don't want to push that stuff back up through the ABS module.
TECHNICALLY THE procedure prolly says u should but ask anyone in ny or the salt belt and il betr they tell u they dont touch bleeders unless they absolutley have to. ive done tons of brake jobs just like this and nev er had one issue. around here bleeders seize up quick andif u break it off a simple break job just got shitty fast. no need to open them when depressing piston as far as im concered. ill bet eric o would agree
Jeff D Due to cruddy Fluid, ABS Module may be generate Check Engine Light or Erratic Performance of ABS Unit.
Big thanks, I now have new rear brakes thanks to you!
Love this guy
Thanks for watching.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks you was a great help. 🙏
Wow! Nice Jimmy! Rear break job - one wheel - done in about 18 minutes. ;^)
That's .3 per wheel. So rear brakes on a Wrangler are just about .6 hours maybe another .2 for jacking it up and pulling the wheels off.
Right?
Thanks from Germany !
Soap and water is generally the needed step to remove the protective coating from the new rotors not brake cleaner anymore
Again you have no idea what you talking about!
Good video. Thanks
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching
Very informative
Thank you for watching . Don't forget to subscribe.
Why not just cuz a c clamp instead of pry bar
Thank you, again.
very nice thank you
Thank you for watching and your input
thanks good vid.
thanks
Thanks for watching. Im happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
SOB...I WATCHED HALF THE VIDEO AND WENT AND DID MY 2012 SPORT....WHY DIDN'T SOMEONE TELL ME HOW MUCH WORK THIS IS!
Jaxxon Balboa thanks for watching
I call bullshit on those rotors coming off like that. We have been doing that for over an hour and they still won't come off.
Great video...but....sh*t bad sound...panic mode :/
I can't believe he tried to sell a caliper bracket to the customer
You have no idea what you are talking about! If it was your personal car you can take a gamble but as a professional I can't take a gamble with my customer's well being.
Clean them then put brake grease on it.
Thanks for watching
Great Video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video , thanks