With this method of sharpening the drill, you can use two drills at the same time in one hole How to make a handmade drill bit: • How to make a handmade... Creativity with lathe: • Creativity with lathe
Oh, I see. Becasue of the continuous guiding of the Center Drill Combo with the Twist Drill, it prevents the twist drill from "chattering" or wandering thus enlarging the hole like a cone. Great technique. Thanks.
Interesting to watch, but when the final grinding was done by hand I fail to see the point of wasting all that time using the Lathe plus a Toolpost Grinder? Just learn to grind drills by hand. Yes it takes a lot of practice, and yes they will only rarely be truly accurate, but it's quick, it's very satisfying and the holes will usually be accurate enough for most normal purposes. In any case if you need a true and accurate hole you drill undersize and finish with a reamer.
Most drills do not have a thin web that is of consistent thickness along the drill. As the drill shortens, the web gets thicker so making an effective pilot is impossible. Good for a counterbore with predrilled pilot hole. Dressing the stones is PITA.
There is no need for this. Just check if the main cutting edges are the same on the Drill or the Drill is blunt... Refix this and all is good... Have a nice day and nö offence 😊
Es buena la técnica y la e probado pero un compañero de trabajo casi jubilado ya me enseñó a afilar las brocas o mechas para que perfore con mejor exactitud usando la mecha centro siempre. Lo malo de hacer una mecha de esta forma es que solo la podés usar para perforar pasantes o que no te moleste pasarte de medida con el centro que dejas en la mecha pero es buena muy buena
Ya las venden ... Pero si se puede mejorar el filo... Para romper virutas... Yo las afiló en lija de banda y varían muy poco .. Una de .375 anda abriendo .380-.385 por ambos lados .. Pero si importa mucho el filo y el punto de centro
@@isidroguzman1941 si es muy importante el núcleo o centro el talón es lo que debes variar y sabes cuál es lo más importante el borde del talón asta el filo redondeale un poco apenas y verás el orificio sale a medida lubricante grasa de chancho derretida no falla y una más respeta velocidad con diámetro de mecha y avance para que corte bien también tiene mucho que ver la dureza del material al perforar pero mientras más duro es menos talón😉
@@Mastermind- he means drill through with a smaller drill first, then follow it with the larger drill. If you’d followed the centre drill with a drill slightly larger than the web of the drill you used (the web being the solid material between the flutes) your original drill would have cut much closer to size, even as close as your final result if the original drill was sharpened correctly. This is a good idea, but really only useful for production where many holes have to be drilled accurately. For only one or two holes it’s too time consuming and impractical.
Nicely done. Too much of work though, especially when you need to regrind it later. I prefer center drill and normal drill separately. Thanks for sharing!
hay algo extraño en el minuto 9:19 .. Supuestamente se hizo un orificio con una mecha de centrar. Para continuar con la nueva mecha, pero sin embargo, cuando utiliza lubricante, este parce caer por el agujero que se hizo con la mecha de centrar... Y si esta es no traspasa el material, evidentemente, ¿como puede caer lubricante a traves?? there is something strange at minute 9:19.. Supposedly a hole was made with a centering wick. To continue with the new wick, but nevertheless, when you use lubricant, it seems to fall through the hole that was made with the centering wick... And if this does not go through the material, obviously, how can lubricant fall through? ??
now do a test with a small pilot drill all the way throgh before the 13 mm drill (standard grind 118 deg) - bet that drills nearly as acurate as the fancy grind job - give it a try and let see
I don't see the point to this. A hole that needs to be very accurate still has to be either reamed or helical milled with cutter-comp to fit. Otherwise just hurry and get er done without getting fancy.
That seems like way to much to go threw. If a drill bit is sharpened correctly in the first place it shouldn't cut over size. But to each their own. Pretty cool trick. Thanks for sharing 👍
As a precision engineer there is only one way to produce a size hole pilot drill it open it up and ream it to size even with a drill bit in a collet you won’t get size hole on a hand ground drill bit. Only impressive for those that don’t know. Further more why do it on a milling machine?
@@colinwood387 50 years as an Toolmaker/Machinist the last 25 in Aerospace. I'll say it again just for you. If the drill bit is sharpened correctly in the first place it should not cut over size.
Because the grinding of the original drill bit has no self-centering ability. Just use a small drill to drill a through hole first, and then use a big drill to solve it.😄
I'll have to fashion a drill like that some day, it's a very useful design. As for the proof you show via your calipers that the before hole was over size and the after was not, I am not so sure you're showing what you think you're showing. If you're saying that by NOT using a drill that doesn't have a center drill built into it will be out & wander, that is simply false. For your old drill, your pilot hole may have been too small, so it didn't lead in properly. The drill could've been dull and was more so rubbing rather than cutting, The other explanation is that the legs of the drill before it was sharpened weren't equal lengths-- when one cutting edge is longer than the other, it will wander quite a bit, within the range you showed (anywhere from 5 to 15 thousandths). If you pilot drill properly, and have a well sharpened drill, then the hole will always come out perfect. Also there is the question of how accurate a drill should be. If it's simply clearance, it matters little. If it's for reaming, it matters quite a lot. If it's for a tap, that would depend on how critical the thread is, then you might need an exact minor diameter.
Oh, I see. Becasue of the continuous guiding of the Center Drill Combo with the Twist Drill, it prevents the twist drill from "chattering" or wandering thus enlarging the hole like a cone. Great technique. Thanks.
That is correct and thanks for watching
Interesting to watch, but when the final grinding was done by hand I fail to see the point of wasting all that time using the Lathe plus a Toolpost Grinder?
Just learn to grind drills by hand. Yes it takes a lot of practice, and yes they will only rarely be truly accurate, but it's quick, it's very satisfying and the holes will usually be accurate enough for most normal purposes. In any case if you need a true and accurate hole you drill undersize and finish with a reamer.
Oh, so you basically ground a twist step drill? While I'd rather buy a set of them off the internet personally, I applaud your skills with making it.
Muy bueno, y muchas gracias.por mostrar esto maestro.
Gracias mi amigo
Interesting method! Thanks for posting and take care!
Thanks for watching!🙏🙏💐
Most drills do not have a thin web that is of consistent thickness along the drill. As the drill shortens, the web gets thicker so making an effective pilot is impossible. Good for a counterbore with predrilled pilot hole. Dressing the stones is PITA.
Would drilling a pilot hole with a smaller bit, then stepping up in size do the same thing?
Hopefully this will work for me and I can save my bets thank you so much
I hope so too!
To much messing about not worth the agrevastion
Should be using a spot drill, not a center drill.
Never had thoses Problems. Get a nice Splitpoint and Grind it to 130°
There is no need for this. Just check if the main cutting edges are the same on the Drill or the Drill is blunt... Refix this and all is good... Have a nice day and nö offence 😊
Thanks for the tip
Just use a smaller drill first and the final size second
Хорошая работа.
Gut sehr gut
Es buena la técnica y la e probado pero un compañero de trabajo casi jubilado ya me enseñó a afilar las brocas o mechas para que perfore con mejor exactitud usando la mecha centro siempre. Lo malo de hacer una mecha de esta forma es que solo la podés usar para perforar pasantes o que no te moleste pasarte de medida con el centro que dejas en la mecha pero es buena muy buena
Ya las venden ...
Pero si se puede mejorar el filo... Para romper virutas... Yo las afiló en lija de banda y varían muy poco ..
Una de .375 anda abriendo .380-.385 por ambos lados ..
Pero si importa mucho el filo y el punto de centro
@@isidroguzman1941 si es muy importante el núcleo o centro el talón es lo que debes variar y sabes cuál es lo más importante el borde del talón asta el filo redondeale un poco apenas y verás el orificio sale a medida lubricante grasa de chancho derretida no falla y una más respeta velocidad con diámetro de mecha y avance para que corte bien también tiene mucho que ver la dureza del material al perforar pero mientras más duro es menos talón😉
Great video. Would using intermediate drills not reduce the sloppy fit ?.
I don't understand what you mean, my friend
@@Mastermind- he means drill through with a smaller drill first, then follow it with the larger drill. If you’d followed the centre drill with a drill slightly larger than the web of the drill you used (the web being the solid material between the flutes) your original drill would have cut much closer to size, even as close as your final result if the original drill was sharpened correctly. This is a good idea, but really only useful for production where many holes have to be drilled accurately. For only one or two holes it’s too time consuming and impractical.
muốn khoan chính xác tuyệt đối phải chế tạo loại mũi khoan như bạn đã làm.
I recognize that piece from the fly cutter build.
Nicely done.
Too much of work though, especially when you need to regrind it later.
I prefer center drill and normal drill separately. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the tips🙏
maybe worth it for where he is from.
waste of time and money, jusr bullshit for ytb voiwers
I totally agree with you. The centre drill does what the name suggests. It keeps the centre of the hole at the centre.
Thanks for sharing, have a like from me.
Thanks for the visit🙏👍❤️
Se quebrar a ponta menor, trabalho perdido. Prefiro broca aproximada e acabamento com alargador...Mesmo assim é uma boa idéia...
Perfeito
great joy at work here cheers for insight
that's really cool
Thanks for the visit
hay algo extraño en el minuto 9:19 .. Supuestamente se hizo un orificio con una mecha de centrar. Para continuar con la nueva mecha, pero sin embargo, cuando utiliza lubricante, este parce caer por el agujero que se hizo con la mecha de centrar... Y si esta es no traspasa el material, evidentemente, ¿como puede caer lubricante a traves??
there is something strange at minute 9:19.. Supposedly a hole was made with a centering wick. To continue with the new wick, but nevertheless, when you use lubricant, it seems to fall through the hole that was made with the centering wick... And if this does not go through the material, obviously, how can lubricant fall through? ??
Great 👍
Thanks for the visit🙏👍
You are going to end up needing tenant surgery if You keep hitting wrenches like that !!!
What is the metal to be drilled???SS or high carbon steel.
The second option my friend
Thank you useful 👍
Glad it was helpful!🙏👍💐
Klu saya akan gunakan 2 mata bor terpisah, karna akan mudah saat mengasah mata bornya nanti.
now do a test with a small pilot drill all the way throgh before the 13 mm drill (standard grind 118 deg) - bet that drills nearly as acurate as the fancy grind job - give it a try and let see
Why center drill so much
Drill close size if you need to ream
заводская заточка - брак!
первое сверло он даже не заправил
Nice
Thanks🙏
I don't see the point to this.
A hole that needs to be very accurate still has to be either reamed or helical milled with cutter-comp to fit.
Otherwise just hurry and get er done without getting fancy.
Excellent work ❤️
Thanks a lot my friend🙏👍
@@Mastermind- you're most welcome bro 😍
Quá đẳng cấp👍👍👍
👍👍👍🙏
Мастер дыр!
Nice video, keep it up, thanks for sharing it:)
thank you my good friend🙏
Very good 👍
From channel art cnc
thank you my good friend🙏
Быстрее и точнее развернуть отверстие после сверления.
❤❤😅
I also use similar technique for drill bits I use surface grinder to make these bits....
This is an awesome video!! Im sure this method will come in handy
Thank you my friend and I'm glad you enjoyed it
Hello kita hadir nonton video👍
Terima kasih temanku
Amazing
thank you my good friend🙏
first time the drill was out sharp
👏👏👍
Thanks for the visit
fantasticooooooooooooo
thank you my good friend🙏
Lebih presesi.👍👍
Terima kasih temanku
КАК ВАРИАНТ.
👍👍👍
🙏👍💐
Very interesting and helpful video, l will definitely have a go at reproducing your work. Regards Gary
So nice of you ,Many thanks
So what we trying to show and prove here
That seems like way to much to go threw. If a drill bit is sharpened correctly in the first place it shouldn't cut over size. But to each their own. Pretty cool trick. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for the tips!🙏
As a precision engineer there is only one way to produce a size hole pilot drill it open it up and ream it to size even with a drill bit in a collet you won’t get size hole on a hand ground drill bit. Only impressive for those that don’t know. Further more why do it on a milling machine?
@@colinwood387 50 years as an Toolmaker/Machinist the last 25 in Aerospace. I'll say it again just for you. If the drill bit is sharpened correctly in the first place it should not cut over size.
🤓👍👍👍💪
Higher quality drill would do the same
you can buy them been around for years in australia,called torpedo drills.
Did you not sharpen the full diameter flutes? Did I miss that step?
That would reduce the O.D., and they are probably still sharp anyway..That's my guess
@@threegreencharms I'm just curious how it cut at all without back relief on the cutting edge. Like how he put back relief on the smaller diameter.
He did grind relief on all 4 cutting edges
👍
🙏💐
Because the grinding of the original drill bit has no self-centering ability. Just use a small drill to drill a through hole first, and then use a big drill to solve it.😄
🥰🥰🥰
:)
Very very impressive!
Thank you very much!🙏👍💐
Waste of time and money. Twist drills are not made for precise holes. You need an undersize hole with a reamer for precision holes.
It is better to read the comments of others, my friend
I'll have to fashion a drill like that some day, it's a very useful design.
As for the proof you show via your calipers that the before hole was over size and the after was not, I am not so sure you're showing what you think you're showing. If you're saying that by NOT using a drill that doesn't have a center drill built into it will be out & wander, that is simply false.
For your old drill, your pilot hole may have been too small, so it didn't lead in properly. The drill could've been dull and was more so rubbing rather than cutting, The other explanation is that the legs of the drill before it was sharpened weren't equal lengths-- when one cutting edge is longer than the other, it will wander quite a bit, within the range you showed (anywhere from 5 to 15 thousandths).
If you pilot drill properly, and have a well sharpened drill, then the hole will always come out perfect.
Also there is the question of how accurate a drill should be. If it's simply clearance, it matters little. If it's for reaming, it matters quite a lot. If it's for a tap, that would depend on how critical the thread is, then you might need an exact minor diameter.
No hai palabras
Böyle makina olsa uğraşmam hazır alırım
Interesting but I feel not worth it. Cost of stones and time just buy new drill bit
I don't think that I would frig around doing that
Excelente
Thanks for the visit🙏👍❤️
👍👍👍
🙏👍