@@westcountry_sailing Thanks for watching and glad you like the channel! Still finding my way through this but it’s great fun and worth it when you get comments like this 😎👌🏼
Hi Alex and a warm welcome from E.C.S. That’s such a pain having to drop the rudder. I need to change my seals on my twin rudders and it has wheel steering. I’m dreading having to remove the steering cables. Always glad when the bigger jobs are done and the boats back in the water as the spending stops and sailing begins. I’ll be getting hauled out in Feb 25 and see how everything I have installed has held up 😅⛵️🌊 Thanks for watching
Another informative video Rob. Wonder how many wait until 10000h's on the engine🙄 Anyway, a comment for the algorithm. Looking forward to the next one. Take care👋
Shiny folding propeller in the boatyard? A thief magnet, unless you cover it with a manky black piece of plastic that you have dipped in the boatyard mud and gaffer taped on. Always worked for me 😀👍
@@WidleyWesident 😂😂 yeah I did have a bin bag over it but wasn’t taking any risks after finding out the value of it. Especially after all the work I put into it 👌🏼🌊⛵️ thanks for watching 👍
It sure did. I have my 343 hauled out here in Thailand, and just changed the shaft seal and cutless bearing, and also the rear engine mounts. Learned a lot from you. Come sail with me in Thailand!
I am not faulting what you did. It was well explained. I am critical of these modern seals that the manufacturer recommends be changed every 500 hours. That is not progress ! And if the seal fails after 6 years and threatens the boat ( or worse ) you can imagine where that leaves your insurance. Those modern seals have far too short a lifespan. The old stuffing box seals ( they drip a bit ) are vastly superior.
@@TroyaE117 Hi Troy, I’m sure the stuffing boxes are superior in many ways but these seals are really good, I always squeeze extra grease in before the 200 engine hours and have done 1500nm this year with no issues. Unfortunately these modern production boats don’t have any alternatives as the technology is outdated. Have trust 😅🫡👌🏼 and thanks for the information.
Maybe check the engine alignment when the boat is in the water. The hull straightens out and your measurement maybe incorrect. It’s a job of couple of minutes, but can prevent a worn out cutlass bearing. Out of the water my engine seems misaligned (also a Beneteau), but in the water it’s perfect. My boatbuilder also recommended this. Just an idea. Other than that: great job!
@markusm3761 Hi mark, yes a secondary check should take place but you can’t check the shaft is central to the stern tube in the water as the seal needs to be removed. You might get the perfect alignment between the coupling plates in the water but if the shaft isn’t central, that will wear the stern seal and cutless bearing. You need to add more supports to your boat on the hard standing if it’s getting deformed 👌🏼😎
@@MrAnthism Hello, & a warm welcome from E.C.S. Glad you enjoyed the video. I have plenty more maintenance and technical videos, I have also brought a project boat and I also have loads more videos to release on servicing and maintenance on this Beneteau Oceanis 343. If you would like to know more about this propeller, check out the GORI propeller rebuild video I produced. It’s an excellent piece of equipment. Provides much higher thrust in reverse, no drag compared to a fixed blade propeller.Also the propeller has an overdrive function so the angle of the blades can be changed more aggressively to make it more efficient when cruising while underway, simple technology. This unit was already installed on the boat but it was in poor condition and had a damaged guide pin. I enquired about a new unit which was £2700 😅 I opted to fix it and it’s much stronger than when it came from the shop. Total cost of refurbishment was £300 ish. Hope it helps. Make sure you subscribe & turn on notifications 🔔. All the best Rob
If the driveshaft was to be replaced anyway, cut the old one out and it will be much easier to remove the coupling and re use it. It saves so much time.
@@TroyaE117 Hi, I didn’t know it needed to be replaced until I cleaned off all the material and saw the pitting. Also the engineering shop will need to take measurements of the old one including the taper and key way. Also angle grinding in a confined space next to the fuel cell is asking for trouble in a GRP boat. Always preserve old parts as you never know when you might need spares in an emergency 🚨 👌🏼😉 something I have learnt over the years. Thanks for watching
@@EastCoastSailing_ get one or two old towels, soak them through and drape them over the surfaces you want to protect. Have a friend standing by with a hose with a shut off fitting. The cutting disc will go through that shaft in short order. I remember having to get an old coupling off and nothing would move it. I had to cut the shaft and use a hydraulic press. If you have to cut it, cut in stages and direct the sparks at the wet towel. It will work and it is reasonable risk.
@@DarrenPhillips001 Hi Darren. I’m sure you can appreciate how long these videos take to film and edit, often going into the early hours of morning over many days. Hope the video helped in some way 🫡🌊⛵️
Unusual to have a nut on the inboard end of the drive shaft, Normally they are just a friction fit with crub screws on the sides. Same technique needed though.
@pierremitham2964 Hi 👋 would have thought the nut on the end combined with a key way is much more reliable as it has a nylon thread which locks the nut into position so it can’t back out. It’s only when the engine is in reverse where the forces on the drive shaft are trying to pull the driveshaft out. Not sure if I’d trust a couple of bolts using friction unless there was recessed on the driveshaft where the bolts locate into. Also smaller bolts are susceptible to oxidisation and rust and could be difficult to undo. Many thanks 😎
The old fashioned wax seal packing design will way outlast anything that has to be replaced every 500 hours!!! I have seen the older designs go 25 years and only need another packing horseshoe to be added. So in 500 hours you have to haul the boat and pull that shaft again ???? Is that progress???
@@TroyaE117 Hi Troy, The stern seal I took off was 18 years old and not leaking, a few drips here and there but in good working order. The 5 year life span is what the manufacture guidance says but these seals are on millions of boats with no issue well over the 5 year mark. I purchased this boat last year and replaced everything as I found a few shockers so it was worth the work. A seal might last 25 years but are you telling me you wouldn’t check the condition of parts every 5 years??? I would… I need bullet proof reliability when I’m out off shore. I wouldn’t have seen the screws in the cutless bearing if I didn’t check the components which are unrelated to the seals. MPG on the engine has doubled so i have halved my fuel usage, less vibration, all round much better. I replaced the stern seal like for like as I looked at alternatives but required lots of alterations to the stern tube which I didn’t want to do and it works perfectly. The new seal will outlive my ownership of the boat and I know it’s all been done properly and have peace of mind. Definitely made progress 👌🏼😎
3:42 WD40 used as a penetrating oil ? Regular WD40 is not a penetrating oil ( WD stands for "Water Displacement" ) But, they do now make a penetrating oil but that's a separate product. Loved the video otherwise though.
@@DavidM2002 Hi David, glad you liked the video. Take a look at the WD40 product data sheet. It can be used as a penetrating oil. Says this on the label - Removing stuck parts: WD-40 can penetrate stuck parts and loosen them. I always keep a can on the boat for multiple reasons. Great product for many applications. All the best Rob
@@EastCoastSailing_ Thanks for pointing that out Rob. I don't even own a boat any more but this sort of project is wonderful to watch to see what I used to do wrong. Cheers.
@ well I hope you get back into sailing, I’d feel lost without it. I sold my last boat and thought I’d have a few years off, save loads of money and ended up buying a newer boat 2 months later well and truly blowing my budget “DOUBLED” 😂😂😂. Im a much better mechanic than I am a sailor which comes in handy as there’s always something needing to be replaced on a boat 😎👌🏼
Another thing on the list of initial checks on a newly purchased boat 👌🏻
@@ScotChef Oi Oi ScotChef ! Hope you’re keeping well. Crazy the previous owner was riding around with this funk going on 🤯😎
Great informative video
@@RockyRacoon66 Thanks 🙏 😎
Well done, proper pro over dub. Enjoying the channel, Cheers.
@@westcountry_sailing Thanks for watching and glad you like the channel! Still finding my way through this but it’s great fun and worth it when you get comments like this 😎👌🏼
Congrats, nicely done tutorial!
I sail a Pacific 38(nz boat) and to work on the shaft I have to drop the rudder!😢
Hi Alex and a warm welcome from E.C.S. That’s such a pain having to drop the rudder. I need to change my seals on my twin rudders and it has wheel steering.
I’m dreading having to remove the steering cables. Always glad when the bigger jobs are done and the boats back in the water as the spending stops and sailing begins. I’ll be getting hauled out in Feb 25 and see how everything I have installed has held up 😅⛵️🌊 Thanks for watching
Another informative video Rob. Wonder how many wait until 10000h's on the engine🙄
Anyway, a comment for the algorithm. Looking forward to the next one. Take care👋
@@noldushumlesnurr6169 Thankyou mate! You won a hat I was trying to get hold of you 😂! Drop me your email and give me your address. 🫡🙏
Shiny folding propeller in the boatyard? A thief magnet, unless you cover it with a manky black piece of plastic that you have dipped in the boatyard mud and gaffer taped on. Always worked for me 😀👍
@@WidleyWesident 😂😂 yeah I did have a bin bag over it but wasn’t taking any risks after finding out the value of it. Especially after all the work I put into it 👌🏼🌊⛵️ thanks for watching 👍
Great video thanks
@@philgunn71 no worries 😉 glad it helped !
It sure did. I have my 343 hauled out here in Thailand, and just changed the shaft seal and cutless bearing, and also the rear engine mounts. Learned a lot from you. Come sail with me in Thailand!
@@philgunn71 I’ll take you up on that 😎👌🏼 currently raining 🌧️ here in the uk 🌊⛵️🫡
Featuring me and Hugo wondering when we are going to get you back 😂😂
@@Frana1990 10 weeks of hell getting this boat done 😝 but worth every weekend getting to the Channel Islands 😎
I am not faulting what you did. It was well explained. I am critical of these modern seals that the manufacturer recommends be changed every 500 hours. That is not progress ! And if the seal fails after 6 years and threatens the boat ( or worse ) you can imagine where that leaves your insurance. Those modern seals have far too short a lifespan. The old stuffing box seals ( they drip a bit ) are vastly superior.
@@TroyaE117 Hi Troy, I’m sure the stuffing boxes are superior in many ways but these seals are really good, I always squeeze extra grease in before the 200 engine hours and have done 1500nm this year with no issues. Unfortunately these modern production boats don’t have any alternatives as the technology is outdated. Have trust 😅🫡👌🏼 and thanks for the information.
@@EastCoastSailing_ I liked the video. It was a lot of work. Fair winds.
@ Glad you liked it 🙏 and fair winds ⛵️🌊
Maybe check the engine alignment when the boat is in the water. The hull straightens out and your measurement maybe incorrect. It’s a job of couple of minutes, but can prevent a worn out cutlass bearing. Out of the water my engine seems misaligned (also a Beneteau), but in the water it’s perfect. My boatbuilder also recommended this. Just an idea. Other than that: great job!
@markusm3761 Hi mark, yes a secondary check should take place but you can’t check the shaft is central to the stern tube in the water as the seal needs to be removed. You might get the perfect alignment between the coupling plates in the water but if the shaft isn’t central, that will wear the stern seal and cutless bearing. You need to add more supports to your boat on the hard standing if it’s getting deformed 👌🏼😎
very informative video mate! Saved for future reference!!! Just a question, how much does that magnificent propeller cost? Thanks.
@@MrAnthism Hello, & a warm welcome from E.C.S. Glad you enjoyed the video. I have plenty more maintenance and technical videos, I have also brought a project boat and I also have loads more videos to release on servicing and maintenance on this Beneteau Oceanis 343. If you would like to know more about this propeller, check out the GORI propeller rebuild video I produced. It’s an excellent piece of equipment. Provides much higher thrust in reverse, no drag compared to a fixed blade propeller.Also the propeller has an overdrive function so the angle of the blades can be changed more aggressively to make it more efficient when cruising while underway, simple technology. This unit was already installed on the boat but it was in poor condition and had a damaged guide pin. I enquired about a new unit which was £2700 😅 I opted to fix it and it’s much stronger than when it came from the shop. Total cost of refurbishment was £300 ish. Hope it helps. Make sure you subscribe & turn on notifications 🔔. All the best Rob
Fairy up liquid 🤣🤣 thats what we call it. Not the official name 😂❤
They call it TIDE in the USA 🇺🇸 🦅 ❤
If the driveshaft was to be replaced anyway, cut the old one out and it will be much easier to remove the coupling and re use it. It saves so much time.
@@TroyaE117 Hi, I didn’t know it needed to be replaced until I cleaned off all the material and saw the pitting. Also the engineering shop will need to take measurements of the old one including the taper and key way. Also angle grinding in a confined space next to the fuel cell is asking for trouble in a GRP boat. Always preserve old parts as you never know when you might need spares in an emergency 🚨 👌🏼😉 something I have learnt over the years. Thanks for watching
@@EastCoastSailing_ get one or two old towels, soak them through and drape them over the surfaces you want to protect. Have a friend standing by with a hose with a shut off fitting. The cutting disc will go through that shaft in short order. I remember having to get an old coupling off and nothing would move it. I had to cut the shaft and use a hydraulic press. If you have to cut it, cut in stages and direct the sparks at the wet towel. It will work and it is reasonable risk.
Mild steel keyway?
@@DarrenPhillips001 If it was made out of 316 stainless steel it wouldn’t have been as corroded as that. Thanks
@ it’s a key. The keyway is what it goes in.
@@DarrenPhillips001 Hi Darren. I’m sure you can appreciate how long these videos take to film and edit, often going into the early hours of morning over many days. Hope the video helped in some way 🫡🌊⛵️
Unusual to have a nut on the inboard end of the drive shaft, Normally they are just a friction fit with crub screws on the sides. Same technique needed though.
@pierremitham2964 Hi 👋 would have thought the nut on the end combined with a key way is much more reliable as it has a nylon thread which locks the nut into position so it can’t back out. It’s only when the engine is in reverse where the forces on the drive shaft are trying to pull the driveshaft out. Not sure if I’d trust a couple of bolts using friction unless there was recessed on the driveshaft where the bolts locate into. Also smaller bolts are susceptible to oxidisation and rust and could be difficult to undo. Many thanks 😎
The old fashioned wax seal packing design will way outlast anything that has to be replaced every 500 hours!!! I have seen the older designs go 25 years and only need another packing horseshoe to be added. So in 500 hours you have to haul the boat and pull that shaft again ???? Is that progress???
@@TroyaE117 Hi Troy, The stern seal I took off was 18 years old and not leaking, a few drips here and there but in good working order. The 5 year life span is what the manufacture guidance says but these seals are on millions of boats with no issue well over the 5 year mark. I purchased this boat last year and replaced everything as I found a few shockers so it was worth the work. A seal might last 25 years but are you telling me you wouldn’t check the condition of parts every 5 years??? I would… I need bullet proof reliability when I’m out off shore. I wouldn’t have seen the screws in the cutless bearing if I didn’t check the components which are unrelated to the seals. MPG on the engine has doubled so i have halved my fuel usage, less vibration, all round much better. I replaced the stern seal like for like as I looked at alternatives but required lots of alterations to the stern tube which I didn’t want to do and it works perfectly. The new seal will outlive my ownership of the boat and I know it’s all been done properly and have peace of mind. Definitely made progress 👌🏼😎
3:42 WD40 used as a penetrating oil ? Regular WD40 is not a penetrating oil ( WD stands for "Water Displacement" ) But, they do now make a penetrating oil but that's a separate product. Loved the video otherwise though.
@@DavidM2002 Hi David, glad you liked the video. Take a look at the WD40 product data sheet. It can be used as a penetrating oil. Says this on the label - Removing stuck parts: WD-40 can penetrate stuck parts and loosen them.
I always keep a can on the boat for multiple reasons. Great product for many applications. All the best Rob
@@EastCoastSailing_ Thanks for pointing that out Rob. I don't even own a boat any more but this sort of project is wonderful to watch to see what I used to do wrong. Cheers.
@ well I hope you get back into sailing, I’d feel lost without it. I sold my last boat and thought I’d have a few years off, save loads of money and ended up buying a newer boat 2 months later well and truly blowing my budget “DOUBLED” 😂😂😂. Im a much better mechanic than I am a sailor which comes in handy as there’s always something needing to be replaced on a boat 😎👌🏼