151 RSW 1950s Gibson With Many Issues Part 1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- This guitar is in a world of hurt. In part one I'm able to fix a bunch of issues of which most are cosmetic. Part 2 is where the real work begins. Hope you enjoy the ride.
www.rosastringworks.com
I just found your videos today, I can’t seem to quit watching! I appreciate a good craftsman, and I am thinking you are an artist as well. Excellent work sir!
There’s something so cool about taking an instrument and making it better than it was. It must be extremely satisfying work for you. Thank you.
Jeffrey Prokopowicz yes it is, thank you very much.
You Sir, are a craftsperson of the old school. I love watching you practice your craft.
Experts are plentiful, people that can actually do the work are rare.
Jerry can most definitely do the work,he must of had amazing teachers in his beginnings of his guitar building an repair career to be the amazing repair an guitar builder
Gibson J 45 1947 Maple Sunburst Keep up the good work, I like watching your videos.
Thanks for all the videos. I learned how to do repairs by watching your videos. I watched many repair people, but I like to watch you work. Thank you again.
You should have received My "Patreon"subscription for the year. Thank you again.
In your videos I'm often thinking "what is he doing???" But in the end it always turns out perfect. You're doing pretty good job with these instruments👍
I've really enjoyed your videos; thank you! I think the mark of an artisan is the confidence and satisfaction in your own work being such that sharing is something you can do willingly and be proud of. Thank you for sharing your craft. I'll soon be 76, been playing very mediocre guitar for 62 of those years, but the love of music keeps me at it. Made a few antler saddles and nuts in those years too. A silly aside; I'm still using my Weller soldering gun which I bought in Victoria BC in 1965.
Great restoration job Jerry! I/we are enjoying your work and excellent documentation job immensely! Thank you for sharing your abilities with us!
Craig Langsford you are welcome thank you for watching Craig
You do excellent detail work and your craftsmanship is impeccable. I learn a lot from your show. Saved me a ton of money. Thanks. J
Thank you. Glad it helps.
That looks a lot like the 1945 Gibson LG2 I worked on a year or more ago, same issues with plenty of loose braces. You made this one look nice again while maintaining the old original look.
Randy Schartiger thank you Randy
J45, 1951-1952. Not a LG2. Multiple body binding and rosette binding.
Hey Jerry ,
I look at this guitar and I see how much of a good time the owner had playing it . I see countless hours of enjoyment ! It makes me want to hear some of the stories that it could tell , although I do think it could have been a little bit more cared for , than perhaps it was !
I love how you play your music whenever you FF! I am learning alot from your vids! Rock on Jerry!
Hi Jerry.you done your magic again.can't wait to see and hear it finished.rob
rob dilley thank you Rob.
Great video Jerry. Man, you're making that old guitar look so much better. Good that it can be saved. Hopeully it will be better taken care of in the years to come. Looking forward to part 2.
Kent Owens thank you so much Kent.
Nice work Jerry...
Looking forward to part 2...
Many greetings from Croatia,Europe...
P.S.love your songs also...
Tihomir Kolarek thank you my friend. Very nice of you to say. Greetings!
I've enjoyed watching the care you took with this guitar.
Richard Stillman thank you very much
Thanks Jerry for the advice concerning the pick guard. Appreciate 👍
I always enjoy your videos and watching you work. I would have liked to see a writing credit for Gillian Welch for "Red Clay Halo". Keep up the good work!
I wasn't aware she wrote that one.
Thanks Jerry for the fantastic Repair of the Gibson . I am looking forward to part 2 of the repair . Take care & Happy new year to you from a Canadian.
GILLEBRATH thank you very kindly and happy New Year from a Missouri Ozarks hillbilly. lol
Thank you so much Jerry.
Love your videos man, I've done many repairs on instruments myself, always learning tips and tricks from yours thanks take it easy
Gibson63 very nice to hear that thank you very much.
Love the ladies voice on Red Clay,awesome song , I’m a big fan of these old Gibson’s great job.
+Gary Yeigh yes thanks for the note. We really miss her. In fact yesterday was the two-year anniversary of her passing. She had a brain tumor. Thanks for taking a look.
That is some very fine work on what appears to be a challenging job. The music is awesome as well.
twangbro thank you very kindly. It gets real tough in part 2 coming soon.
Another great video with fantastic music. Love it so much. Cant wait to see the finished project.
Tele Man65 thank you. The work is more difficult in pt2.
Just found your channel and really enjoyed this video. My guitars are all fairly new so I'm sure why I find this so interesting but I do. TH-cam is such a great place to watch people that are passionate about what they do. Unlike TV, which is fake.
CHIPfilmsTV thank you very much. I hope you'll stick with me and continue watching.
Nice work Jerry. That Gibson is looking ALOT better than when it came in.
108ashtangi thank you very much.
You've done a really nice job with the repairs and improving the appearance. I look forward to Part 2.
Dale Palmer thanks. That's where the work starts. Omg...
Jerry, Check out Evapo-Rust for old hardware that has surface rust on it. If you soak those tuner machines in this liquid for 30 mins or more the rust is removed without doing any damage to the finish or plating.
Hi,there at the Rosa string works thank you so much for sharing your knowledge of lutherie with us in my opinion your repairs are thought out a done well.Thank you for sharing.C.E.Huggins
The day after Xmas that's dedication Jerry ...Good man 👍
You do amazing work, it's a joy to watch you do the work you do.. I love the way you say acrosst!
Well that's not all I say wrong. Lol
I don't think you say a single thing wrong. Us Canadians spell it colour and honour.. doesn't mean we're right or wrong, just different :)
If something is three thirty seconths accrost, what is its heighdth?
Very impressive work! Enjoy watching and learned a lot! Thanx
Good idea with the buttons on machine heads!!Nice restoration Jerry.way better!!Cheers
blkjckgtrnut thank you very much kind friend. I really appreciate your watching.
Gibson script logo ended in 46(ish), so this would be a 47 at the earliest, the pickguard size became larger after 1955. So, this guitar falls somewhere between 47-55. Love your videos!
Love your vids man, very relaxing but exciting to watch!, your very talented!
Really enjoyed this looking forward to part two ,btw the black stain that you couldn't get off could be a chemical reaction between the glue the previous luthier used for the repair and trace elements of metals in the woods that being the spruce and whatever wood the repair was made with.It has oxidized.
Neil Robert Turner Guitars thanks for the note. I've seen the staining you are referring to. I think this is just black spray paint. It's even more obvious in part 2 that a real amateur did a lot of work on this guitar. Part 2 coming soon.
That's quite a project you have there, but it's coming along nicely! I'll bet it sounds great when you are done.
Jeff Grier thank you my friend.
That Guitar You're Working On
I'd Sand It Down & Refinish It.
When I Refinished Mine
I Thought I'd Mess It Up It
Turned Out Good & Now It
Looks Realy Nice. Like Profesional
Woodworker Done It.
Great job with the make-up of this beauty. She already looks beautiful!
amit newton thank you very much.
Wow... that was insane all the issues you had to repair on this guitar. Amazing. You have patience that i wish i had sometimes haha. Great video. :-) My project this week is to repair the body on a Yamaha F325D. Nice looking guitar with a satin neck. I like these. Was $65 shipped for a brand new guitar with the damage. Should be easy to fix as its along the binding and the pieces are there to reattach. Fun stuff :-) Im on a Yamaha kick repair and wise.
Collection as of now:
F310
F325
F325D
F335
FG800
I own a SLG200S (Silent Guitar) but that was new and didnt require any work. My F collection will continue to grow. Ive been adjusting neck, polishing/leveling frets, installing bone nut and saddle and rosewood pins. Installing sound hole pickup with end jack. No preamp. Ive got all the guitars playing unreal for cheap acoustics. Love it 🙂
I just finished repairing a headstock on the 325 natural I got for free. That was a mess that had been left out in a shed that leaked for over a year. Was broken at scarf joint, top of the headstock, back near the tuners and body damage that required a lot of patience. New bone saddle, nut, rosewood pins, tons of fret polishing, truss rod barely gave me enough to work with. Was not an easy fix by any means Just put Tung Oil on the back of the neck as i sanded it down to the wood. I like a natural feeling neck. Plays great, low action, no buzzing and stays in tune. But best part is it sounds surprisingly good for such a cheap guitar after adding bone nut and saddle etc. You cant even feel the repair.
I learn a lot from your channel, thank you for posting all of these videos and putting the time in to making all of this happen. Greatly appreciated.
I keep my guitars in 68 degrees and 40% or less humidity and ive never had issues with any of my guitars. I have guitars that are over 40 years old easy and never an issue. I dont use humidifiers either. But what works for the guitars i own, may not work for the guitar you own.
Wonderful videos. I have spent hours watching them which is why I subscribed. I know nothing about mandolins and fiddles but i really enjoy watching you work on them (and the videos on the farm - just amazed at what you turn your hands to). You have mentioned several times that you don't like liquid or spray polishes. I was recommended to use a spray polish called "Tone G'Wax" which is meant to have been designed for Guitars and Pianos and is made by chem-pak, inc. of Martinsburg, WV 25405-2589 in your fair country. I have used it on all my guitars (before I saw your videos) and they look so shiny they almost look "wet". I'm sure you know what I mean. Its says, on the tin," Harmless to Stratospheric Ozone Contains no CFCs or Chlorinated Solvents". The majority of my guitars are of the electric variety (apologies to you acoustic men) and I wonder whether the finish on those would be safer with this product. Wonder if you've heard of it and what your opinion might be. Must say that I am tempted to use the "Rennaisance" polish recommended by the guy on Crimson guitars (as you were).
Andrew Bryan thanks. Nice to hear. I would just be cautious with the polishes and waxes on the plastic. Especially the pick guard.
Thank you very much.
Wow. That's the first time I've seen bare wood under the pickguard.
A tuner on the used Silvertone Strat I bought had a bent string post. It was leaning big time.
Whoever owned it prior didn't know how to string it and put a 0.019" G in the high e position, then tried to tune it to high e until it bent the tuner, then broke the string. I bought it with the broken string still attached and the other plain stings in the wrong places, also. The tuner finally broke last string change. The main post broke away from the body on a modern Fender-style tuner.
Edit: and you weren't kidding in another vid when you said people like to pick between the pickguard and the bridge. That one's all beat up in that tiny spot.
Jerry. Back n tha day (1976) our band competed in the Hugo, Ok Bg Festival..We were beaten by a band that the lead singer was playing a
'Gallagher guitar. Local festivals always seemed to have Earl Garner as head judge. If if he couldn't see who our banjo player was, after the
first bar we'd win. Cuz he loved our banjer players 3 finger rolls and pull offs. His name is Wayne Harris.
Just a suggestion for future use... If the house paint you are looking to remove is latex it comes off pretty easy in my experience with touch up markers. I use Minwax markers in my trade and the solvent base in them seems to break it right down without damaging original finishes. Just "draw" over the paint with the marker and wipe off.
+Oswaldo Delacroix thank you very much. I might give that a try.
It looks much better. Great job
Michael Goodman thank you very much.
1947-1950 j45. Needs dismantled and reassembled. Needs to be resunburst with concord brown and lacquer paint job hand rubed and a new set of machine heads. I got one just like it had to be taken completely apart and reassembled it's now nicknamed the best sounding guitar in the world and it looks absolutely beautiful!
29:35 Tragedy strikes! The hot soldering iron (?) makes a dent in the button, just in the blink of an eye. Unobserved by the repair man. Will he see it? Will he make a comment on it? I'm thrilled to see what happens...
Fascinating stuff. My guitar isn't quite this bad, which is hopeful for me.
The Shade Tree Fix-it Man good luck with it. Thanks for watching.
Regarding the tuning machine knobs, I like genuine wear however extreme. Despite those old ones looking pretty funny, there's still possibly a gestalt to them that I would lean towards despite the very good replacements you had. I'd need a better look at the old ones on the guitar to be sure. It seems like the thinking in the antique world in general is that repaired honest wear is usually less desirable than the wear. There are still going to be many cases where there are exceptions for obviously ugly marring, integral missing parts or sometimes cleaning, etcetera. I'm glad you don't slick the guitars up like crazy when you get them. Some restorers of non-instruments are a menace with a sandblaster and a can of (almost always) bright fire engine red paint in my opinion.
I just saw this and was amazed those old original tuners still had buttons on them ,cant find that button style anywhere ,I have 2 sets of these that came off gibsons and will finally restore them ,they used those tuners on many style gibson guitars for 25 or so years and they will crumble in your fingers eventually
That is amazing....you are an artist
yonks49 thank you so much.
Yes, the spray on wax has most likely got harmful propellants that can cause a lot of harm, I am going to have cataract eye surgery on Monday morning. All the best, Edgar
it's ok Jerry thank u for replying
I played in Florida at this summer solstice thing. The Skeeters were really really bad. I lathered up with bug spray and commenced to nearly ruin my 1968 Gibson hummingbird neck. After the gig I called my friend at about 11:30 at night and told him the finish on my guitar's neck is really sticky, and kinda gushy. He told me to meet him at this guitar store that he worked at right away. Like, right then? I asked. So, ya mean right now? And he said yea if you want to keep the finish on yer guitar. So, I go over to Pro Frets, and he spends like 45 minutes working on my neck with this polish and he brought it back. He busted ass. Yea, some was probably lost, but not much. Cool Friend. Chemicals can kill. that was my thesis sentence I guess.
Jerry... I have a question I need answered, if you don't mind answering. Picture this, You have a cheaply sold "12 String Vantage" that has personal sentimental value due to it's past owner that has died, that needs some work done on it to bring it up to at least decent playing abilities again. One factor it needs a neck reset ( where I have already removed the neck, without having any real hard issues to deal with that can't be repaired). Overall the acoustic is in good shape for it's age, and the neck is not the issue of the problem I wish to ask about. The sound pad/board inside, is made of layered plywood, and over time, the pegs have been forced down when putting on new strings, and has chipped away around the pegs holes. By rights, the sound board needs replacing, but it is glued down well, and remains tight, flat and firm. I really don't want to remove the back, or the face of the guitar to make the necessary repairs, unless I really, really have to. I believe once in a video, you used a home-made scraper type tool to lift and remove a sound board, without having to open the guitar up, then replaced the sound board with a new hardwood piece, with all work done through the sound hole. I can't remember the episode of video, you did this on, or the make of guitar, you were working on at that time. Instead of pushing the scraper tool, you both heated the bridge area, and "pulled the scraper tool you had, towards the sound hole, to separate the glued seal of that sound board, and remove it, so a new board could be installed. Do you remember the video number of that repair, and could you send that video number to me. I would like to view that video again, so maybe I might be able to make the same type of tool to remove this damaged sound board, without having to break the face or backs factory seal, and open the whole thing up. I'd like to completely replace the sound board with a hardwood replacement, but if not able to remove the board, maybe glue over a thin piece of hardwood (same size as the old one), on top of the old one, (as it is flat, except around the pin holes), and re-drill the peg hole openings. What do you think. I'd still like to re-watch that video you made awhile back. Thanks Jerry. Best wishes in 2020.
Sorry I just don't keep track of all the videos. They all run together in my head so I have no way of telling you.
Thanks anyways...I wasn't really expecting you to remember the video number, as you do make a lot of videos, but there was always a chance you might have remembered, so I took that chance. I'll go back over your videos, and see if I can find it. I have a fair idea on how the tool was made, and maybe can come up with my own design, where the scraper is pulled to loosen glued on parts inside an acoustic. I enjoy your videos and find them very informative. regards Jerry,,, Again Thanks.
You are a mechanic 💜
A mixture of toluene, acetone and butanol will strip that spray paint right off. You might be able to get it as a ready-made thinner for nitrocellulose-based paints. Warning: Attacks most paints and plastics. As for the stickers, store-bought label removers use dimethylpentane. It tends not to attack paints, only the sticky residue.
my theory is that the plastic pickguards shrink, and then peal themselves up. Plastic shrinks considerably more than wood does. This happens on Martin's a lot and sometimes the shrinking pickguard can even crack the top.
Marc McElroy true pickguards can and do crack tops. But I see lots of really old instruments including Martins with no shrinkage at all. Pretty sure there is a catalyst for most of the shrinking and it is always associated to chemicals in contact with the plastic. Thanks for watching.
yeah,your probably right on,cause up to 1916 they used ivory nuts,and on sime saddles and bindings
When reading numbers inside old guitars I use a red light. The red light makes the numbers stand out better than normal light. I use a old red rear cycle light.
Thanks for the suggestion. What you don't understand with me is I am totally profoundly colorblind. Red lights don't do much for me. Hunters use them to see a blood trail. It doesn't help me at all.
@@RosaStringWorks what the red light does is make the ink stand out. Maybe it will work out for you? The worst is it doesn't.
You are doing an excellent job on that Gibson. I have to agree with Randy. That does look like the old Gibson he worked on. But all those Gibson's sorta look alike. I have a question! Can you restore this guitar and make it look like new? Great video. thanks for sharing.
Thomas Tommy thank you my friend. I could make it look like new, but the customer doesn't want that and it would be real expensive.
This obviously is an old country singer's rhythm guitar. No G-runs, not riffs, etc. They just get beat up this way--it gives them character. You don't want to make it too pretty.
For what it's worth, a luthier/repairman friend, who soaks old tuner sets like these in denture cleaner overnight. I've tried it, and it leaves most of the patina, but removes rust and trash, etc.
Great videos! And great work on all of these instruments.
Your opinion is correct looks nice did you switch guitars 🎸 lol
If I had a choice between an old Gibson like this and a new Taylor, I would take the Gibson :)
Jerry that looks to be a 1940's Gibson J-45 so is that a bit older than you figured? I am 99% positive about that guitar. Love watching your old classic instrument repair. That's definitely a tough one to work on.
LUCKYLARRY thanks so much. I think it is very likely from the 40s. It gets much harder in part 2.
Is this an LG2? Wow! what a lot of issues with this one,. It's had a rough life.
Not quite in as bad shape as Wiily Nelson's "trigger", but you wonder why it even has a pickguard, if it wasn't even being used.
You are definitely the "mother of invention" when it comes to making special tools, that's for sure!
+SuperCarver2011 thank you my friend.
Wouldn't it be easier to punch a hole in the top, call it Trigger Jr. and send it on its way? (actually can't wait to hear it, old guitars can sound so nice)
Scott Brewer maybe so. Just finishing it up today. It was a lot of work. Especially on the inside.
Jerry, have you ever seen a guitar made with green wood? I saw a nice one once that was. Lots of splits. A brand new piano as well. Sound board split.
First off, your work is amazing & I enjoy watching your videos a lot! They make me want to find old neglected instruments just to send them to you and get them restored and watch the videos haha ... I know you are more interested in restoration and that's what you find most important, but why would you not want to further your investigations just a bit more to know what the model numbers are or even some trace of it? When it comes to knowing the monetary value & history of any specific instrument isn't that important?
Keith Crain I've been doing it long enough I kind of know the value of almost all of them to some degree. The individual specifics don't interest me at all and I don't have time to deal with it with all the volume coming in. Plus, I'm not remembering details as well as I used to.Thank you for watching.
Thanks for the reply Sir! Keep making great videos :)
According to this site www.guitarhq.com/gibson6.html, this is a 1950-54 J45.
It says that in 1948 the silkscreened block logo was added, the belly bridge was added in 1950, and the guitar went to 20 frets in 1955. I have one just like this except mine has the rectangle bridge, so it's between 1948-49, and thank God, it's in "perfect" condition compared to that one LOL!
FYI, my serial number is a very plainly readable "7902 24" but I think these are FON and batch numbers because they don't translate to any known serial numbers. If anyone knows how to decode this correctly, please leave me a comment, thanks!
Great job on giving that old guitar new life!
Great work but I don't know the reason for fixing the semi-circlular chunk out of the sound hold. It seem like it removes some of the original patina. Wouldn't fix Willie Nelsons sound hole would we?
I find sometimes that guitar polish is good for removing some glue muck. It's great for removing price stickers off of things.
+Andi Jones thank you very much.
Mr Clean magic eraser takes paint off pretty well...
What is really weird is my pops use to use the same term (Proud) and he told me it meant above or beyond normal folks. My Dad told me it came from Midwest to Eastern folk.
My Dad grew up in Southern California from 1944 to his death. Its kinda weird how a simple a word can Carrie on a meaning like that.
Yeah I'm sure I heard my dad saying proud also. In fact he had a lot of old sayings that you don't hear anymore. Thanks for watching.
Hmm those frets sure were shiny, I was going to ask if platinum or silver frets were a thing but decided to look. Apparently Gibson used a lot of nickle/silver frets over the years, that might explain the shiny frets.
MISTERComaToes thanks for watching.
Factory Order Number (FON): 8530
Construction year: 1908 (as a serial number is printed in the sound hole)
Model: Acoustic
(Manufactured in Kalamazoo)
Construction year: 1961 (if serial number is printed on headstock)
Manufactured in Kalamazoo
I know when you use any 1995's or before petroleum hydrocarbon spray that it causes damaged on any guitar finish that was plastic or alcohol based finishes.
I also found that the older lacquer and shellac based finishes would suffer from what I named Sprackeling. It was a micro cracking of the finish from long term use of petroleum
cleaners. I had to use a carl zeiss magnifier to see the micro fractures in the finish to figure out why this 1970's Gibson dove had the problem it had in the late 90's. If you have a nice
acoustic guitar pre 1995's and want to keep it that way use only natural finishes from the old day's. If you have older electric guitars the same applies to you.
I have many 70's to 80's acoustic and electric guitars that will out play any Gibson or Fender
Built today. when your ready to spend 2K dollars on a LP think about buying a guitar for less than half that and can much better.
Thanks for the note in for taking a look.
Hi Jerry. What is the difference between Thru saddle and pocket? Ok I think I can answer my own question. I see the groove extends out on both sides so I guess the deeper you cut the weaker it gets.
I know I am looking at this late but I thought I saw an X before the 4 digit number. The X was used in 1954. I also think 1954 was the last year of the small Martin like pickguard. I has a 51 in much better shape that I purchased in the early 80's. But maybe not after your done.
good video once again!!! Why insist on double sided tape for the pick guard though? Wouldn't there be a glue for plastic & wood that would suit this better? Also, I've seen CA glue to work particularly well on chipped off finish and such so I wonder if by your experience it just wouldn't have worked of if those products made your life a nightmare at some point haha. Cheers and Happy New Year!!
Justic3h thank you for watching. Double sided tape is kind of a standard for pick guards. Glue creates a lot of problems. The tape is more forgiving. Super glue for tiny spot finish repair is ok. Not a good choice for any large area.
It needs some "Rosa Magic"!
Major improvement.
cheezervvvvv thank you so much.
I'm gonna buy some merch too
The Dot over the "i" in Gibson is joined to the "G" on the peghead, that's characteristic of very early 50's.
pneumatic00 thank you.
Y'know what....I misled you....the "joined dot" thing only applies to the word "Gibson" when it is INLAID into the peghead; NOT when it's a decal. Go look on ebay (if you care) for say a 1951 ES-175 and then look for a 1953 or 1954 ES-175 and you'll see the difference. The dot is joined on ALL the decals, even into the late 60's. The space shows up late '52ish.
hey Jerry can you just make tuning buttons out of deer antler im sure those would be better i know you can make them probably would cost a bit to make them guessing thats why you just put replacement buttons on the tuning machines
I have actually done that. It's difficult to get them all the same. And it's fairly difficult to attach them where they stay put.
I like "feathering" the popsicle stick.
Jeffrey Douglas thank you for watching. I always feather popsicle sticks, tongue depressors, Etc
One of the key decisions factors in determining the age of the guitar would (IMO) would be the use of plastic. Plastic really only came about in the late 50s, before that it would have been Bakelite. That said, that guitar is probably no older than 1957.
They had various kinds of plastic back into the early part of the century. I think it was something on the order of film industry used I forget what to call it now
I am thinking , maybe acetate.
@@RosaStringWorks You're thinking of celluloid. In which case it could be much older than you thought. It was invented in the 1860's and used as imitation tortoise shell. Maybe the 1908 year isn't out of the question after all. Love your videos.
Celluloid? I Didn't think they had acetate until the 60's
But what do I know
What is the brand of double back tape?
Hi Jerry Question for ya ''What was the guitar polish / wax you use again ?
I couldn't find your old video clip I Some type of Artist wax you got on ebay
scott ford the new wax that I've been trying out i called Renaissance and it's a micro crystalline wax polish 200 milliliters. Tthe wax I've been using for many years is just Minwax Furniture paste wax. I think it's really good in terms of improving your sound. It makes the Finish real crisp and it sounds great. one thing I failed to mention in the video is that if you have a lot of bare wood it's not a good idea to put wax on top of the bare wood. Because it stops anything from penetrating the wood later in case you want to touch up the Finish.
How do you like the Renaissance Wax ??
I would like to try it on my Cittern plus try it on my paintings too .
scott ford I think its good stuff. Easy on and off. Which makes it easier than regular paste wax. But it doesn't seem to affect the sound much if any. The paste wax often changes the sound for the positive.
Merry Christmas 2018
Hi Gerry where's part 2 of the regal?
Jeffrey Owens I just finished part 1. Part 2 will be a few more days yet. It takes hours to put these things together. Sorry to make you wait. thank you for watching
Can a brojken truss rod be replaced? I have a Gibson j-45... Thank you
With enough work it can.
@@RosaStringWorks Sounds expensive, thanks
Take that guitar and exacto knife into the woods, and you could call in a whole bloomin' flock of turkeys! :)
Hey Jerry, One of the many thingsI like... musical interludes that play during time laps and such, do You have a place for these tunes? Seems I the old ones! Tab would do... or score, if ya like... %)
HTG'
Dan Schafer
Daniel R. Schafer Dan, if you go to www.rosastringworks.com you can get Jerry’s music there to download with a voluntary payment system that allows you to pay what you think each song is worth.
a great song on the 14th minute
Strelnik Guitars Red Clay Halo. Thanks for watching.
I've been trying to source some unicorn horns as they are pretty straight?
Don't bother. I don't think I could handle all the glitter.
@@RosaStringWorks Lovely retort I've been chuckling ever since!
You Should've Seen The Guitar I Redone It Looked Terrable.
It Was An Orangey Color
Then After I Redone It
It Looked Just Beautiful
distilled water works best Jerry,
michaeladam caira thanks
1958, definitly
Definitely a post-1948, pre-1955 Gibson J-45 (small pickguard, block logo), probably post 1950 (upper-belly bridge)
Pete Germershausen thank you. It's difficult to say for sure, as you can see, other commenters have slightly different opinions. Different models and different years. Can't prove it by me, I just fix 'em. lol. Appreciate your thoughts my friend. By just look and feel, I tend to agree with you.
I agree with Pete, I have a very early 1952 J50 which is pretty much like the J45 you are working on, only in natural finish. The FONs on these guitars faded often, so dating sometimes has to be from the features.So '50-'54 gets my vote. Excellent work on this...looking forward to the next instalment :-)
John Kontos thank you very much John. I just finished it as we speak literally. It turned out real good. I'm real pleased with it. Especially considering how bad the inside was. You'll see that in part 2. Thanks for watching.