Building my 18" Slab Saw

This is the 18" slab saw that I built about 6 years ago and I've been using since. Some of you asked me to show some of the tools I built so I will start with this 18" saw, by the way, I don't have any drawings made for it, I just built it as I go and you will see that from the initial pictures I included in this video.
I hope this video will incourage you to build your own and if you have any question or you need more information, just send me a comment below and I will make sure to answer your questions, I would also appreciate if you subscribe to my channel and don't forget to click on the bell so you can get notified everytime I uploade a new video.
Thanks for watching.

[@jimbettridge3123]

Thanks Elie! Looks like a quality built unit! Quality workmanship with quality parts!

[@ElieGhanimeEG]

Thanks Jim, glad you like it.

[@daultonruff2281]

Sorry for so many questions, Based on the cost of that liquid coating, (Red Coat) $65 from Amazon, or $50ish from ebay, is it not just as practical to use a product like bondo, which is also flexible and paintable which I am only putting over the JB Weld in a thin coat with my finger in the seams I have welded.. Then I will paint the basin..

[@ElieGhanimeEG]

Don’t worry about the questions, I’m glad to help!

[@daultonruff2281]

I am addressing my vice and the height related to the arbor and blade. I'm about to lower my vice by rebuilding and making the vice lower so a rock will clear the top of the blade. Yours looks just a little high. Is that an illusion? I am here to figure out what paint to use as I am now sealing the welded edges of the tank. I've found out I am a terrible welder and now am using JB Weld to seal it and then I will also use bondo before I paint it. Saw is taking much longer than I envisioned.

[@ElieGhanimeEG]

Regarding the vice height is based on the washers that holds the blade in position, not the arbor, if you have the base of the vice where the rock will be resting it has to clear the top of the washer otherwise the rock will hit the washer and you’ll have a problem. After using the JB Weld make sure there’s no leaks in the tank. Take your time and don’t rush your work you don’t need any problems once you add the oil in. Good luck!

[@daultonruff2281]

@@ElieGhanimeEG Thank you for your reply; I took another look at your arbor and saw that you are right. What you said is a big consideration for me right now as I am seriously considering tossing out my whole vice and carriage and trying to make it look more like yours. My vice and carriage weigh about 60 lb, and I don't like how I've adapted for a rail and wheels. I was just out there checking the JB Weld and looking at the vice. I think I'm planning a trip to my steel source to see what they have that I hope won't cost too much. I really am taking my time. A lot more time than I expected. This next payday I'm buying Bondo and am going to put a coat of that on all the seams over the JB Weld. I expect that will make sure there are no leaks. I also need a metal break so I can form a cover over my bearings. Lots of problems to solve in the future. I also am looking at how you put the window into your lid. I will be buying a piece of plexiglass in the future. My old saw had an LED light inside. Also, I powdercoated the basin. Wish I could do that with this one.

[@EgJewels]

@@daultonruff2281 Remember that once it's done it's done so if you have to change the vice do it now same with everything else. The steel prices are gone up now same as everything else. For the window on top I used a rubber seal from the auto parts supplier, based on the size you get you cut the window and the plexiglass , the whole thing is mounted from the top. For the powder coating you might find a company close by that they can do it for you, it will be cheap if you use the color that is most commonly used by them so you have to ask.

[@daultonruff2281]

Question: The metal rails that your vice rides on. Are there any bearings involved? How will those rails hold out over time? Thank you.

[@ElieGhanimeEG]

My rails are 1” steel rods and there’s no bearings in the vice it’s only a slide-fit clearance holes, remember oil will be all over the place lubricating the rails.

[@daultonruff2281]

@@ElieGhanimeEG Do you think I could get by with 5/8" rods? Thanks, I don't have to worry about drag. You wouldn't believe what saw looked like when I bought it.

[@ElieGhanimeEG]

@@daultonruff2281 No, don’t cut corners, 1.0” diameter.

[@daultonruff2281]

@@ElieGhanimeEG Got that - Thank you. Going to be 112 today so think I'll wait to go look at steel. --

[@loganleland5120]

Do you have a materials list used for your build?

[@ElieGhanimeEG]

I’m sorry Logan I don’t have a material list, I didn’t think about it at the time since I was building only one for myself.

[@Shazzamm1971]

The drive shaft would not have been weakened by removing the threads. The threads do not add to the cross sectional thickness.
The root diameter is the reason a thread is weaker than its major diameter measurement.
Therefore the limit switch was uneconomical and unnecessary.
Chain going around 90 deg corners break them. Why not put the on/off switch inline with the hole?

[@ElieGhanimeEG]

I understand what you’re saying. However, I didn’t want to take a chance to cut the threads on the ½” diameter, not only that, I had the limit switch already so it wasn’t an extra expense for me.

[@ElieGhanimeEG]

I also I forgot to mention, the chain is going over a roller wheel in the corner so it will never break and it gives me a better view to see the chain moving.

[@ashyslashy5818]

hi can you please give a link of a good welo opal rough dealer thank you

[@ElieGhanimeEG]

The Village Smithy Opals, INC. www.villagesmithopals.com
They’re very nice people and you’ll get the best quality from them.