That should be an interesting technical challenge... Or a time-wasting disaster. It could really go either way. - Rex Krueger I want to display this quote in my workshed, it spoke to my soul.
Thanks Rex, watching your video helped me a lot. I want to make a custom step pulley that will give me 4 higher "gears" or speed settings for when I make honey dippers. I tried a few things, but I realised I messed up my concentricity. I thought about turning it on the motor shaft, but gave up because it's too difficult to get access, unless you take the motor out of the machine. So I was about to make the same mistake regarding concentricity again in a more sophisticated way😂 But now I know I must turn it on the motor shaft, even if I must remove the motor from the machine to do it, and then I'll also use a sawn-off wood screw for a grub screw. Those two things were the main problem, and you solved them.
Lovely seeing this come together. I'd have just glued some extra ply to the end of the motor pulley to make the second one. You could pare out the correct bore size with a chisel right there on the motor without having to drill, & then simply part it off. You get a bit of chipout inside the bore doing it that way, but for something temporary it would be good enough & might be safer than trying it on the bandsaw. Another thing I might consider would be to drill some holes straight through the pulleys & glue in some bits of hardwood dowel or even bamboo skewers. If that plywood is going to fail, it'll fail outwards (due to the pressure of the belt pushing it that way) so a little extra reinforcement might make things last longer, or at least buy you enough time to notice a split & glue it back together before things fly apart. Also best to check grain alignment & make sure each piece of ply/wood is at 90° to the ones either side of it, which adds an enormous amount of strength.
I've seen people make pulley's on an electric drill. You could even use the electric drill to drive the spindle. Although in this case the drill chuck will probably be to small. Great progress Rex.
Yes, the automaton-maker Keith Newstead makes pulleys on the pillar drill but they're quite small - you'd need to be awfully brave to scale the process up! I tjink Rex's solution is best really.
My first lathe was a little 4 speed Atlas. I replaced the 1/2 hp motor with a 1 hp motor, built a table to put it on out of some glue lam beams, and used a link belt, which actually worked really well.
I made 2 multi v pulleys out of a chunk of 6 in. round bar for the wood lathe i built from scratch it was a nice project. It also helped that i was working in a machine shop at the time.
I'm finding your channel most educational as I begin my journey into woodworking. I have a real rudementary knowledge of woodworking but am good with my hands and ready to try this one. Can you pull all the lathe building videos into a play list please?
Neat video! At 1:30 you suggest Cabinet grade plywood. What does that mean? A quick look at my local home depot shows standard plywood and crate grade plywood both S-P-F. There are assorted hardwood plywoods. Is it the hardwood plywood you are suggesting? None are tagged as Cabinet grade, but since they have a finish veneer I would suspect that is what cabinet builders would use.
;-) Shaking my head for not thinking of this. I have a drawer of odd ball pulleys collected from several hoarders over decades lol. Almost never have the correct size to match. This looks like a great solution. My lathe is too small to make a step pulley as large as you made, but I think I can make larger than my current pulleys, doing this. Weird, I really should have thought of making wooden pulleys. My grandfather and great grandfather made wooden pulleys, big ones though, for saw mills. I still have some bits and pieces kicking around that my grandfather used to make them with. Actually, wood turners may find it interesting to know that many of these big wooden pulleys had to be built, then turned round, on their permanent shafts, a temporary lathe.
When mounting the motor to turn the motor pulley. Just use the regular mounting holes. Also make sure the motor doesnt rock when mounted. The mounting surfaces on electric motors are not necessarily in one plane. This can result in what is called a soft foot. It may be necessary to shim one or more motor mounting feet to eliminate the problem. Believe when I say this is important. A soft foot when tightened can cause vibration problems. The side angle on the pulley grooves. These are normally an included angle in the range from 34° to 38 or 40°. The angle will vary depending on the diameter. On a 50 horse motor this is important. On a homemade lathe not so much. The shaft on a homemade lathe should be as heavy as you can get. The stiffer the shaft (hey you in the back, get your mind out of the gutter) the better things will go. I was once at a woodworking show and I asked the founder of Robust Lathes why they didn't design the lathe to take collets in the spindle. His reply was he didn't think most wood turners would know what to do with them. He also thought it would be a great idea since he is a trained Tool Maker. While you can build a lathe this way I think a better option would be for the headstock to be made from something more substantial than a couple of pillow block bearings and 4x4s. Maybe a transfer case from a boneyard 4WD. Actually for a small diameter wood lathe the best option would be something like a Hardinge or Elgin plain turning lathe www.lathes.co.uk/elgin/index.html These used to be cheaper than dirt especially if they didn't have anything besides atail stock. Rock solid for any work in their capacity they will make you realize just how cheaply made most wood lathes really are
Rex, your videos are always easy to understand at my level of knowledge, which is at a lot lower level than yours!!! I wish I had the room and tools to try to attempt half of what you put out. Thank you
That was cool. in the set screw holes, I like to run the wood screw in then take it out and put cyanoacrylate glue (instant glue) in the hole and get it soaking in all around. Let it cure sufficiently or it will be a bad scene. The screws then have much greater holder power and don't wear out so quickly. Its amazing how well hardwoods do in these instances. Difficult to find very good plywood around here - I have to drive too far. But I have lots of maple right on the property. That video is a keeper. RH
Really expensive is relative, but I get the impression Rex is "Cheap Old Bastard" cheap, as in either it's free or I keep looking. That is the level of cheap that I have been relegated to until business picks up in the spring. OK, I'm that cheap all year around, and I keep my eyes open all the time for materials! Oh, and casting an Aluminum pulley is not that hard and that partial lathe will be perfect for finishing it!
What a great series and concept, making turning available to more woodworkers. The part I am curious about is how those wooden pulleys will hold up, especially under a load, like turning that maple bowl, etc. Even with cabinet grade ply, thicker sheaves (or are they called faces?) might help prevent their breaking. Then again, I over-engineer everything, so they'll probably be fine! Keep up the good work! :)
Well, I'm not the first to use this approach. John Heisz and Mattias Wandell have both made pulleys in a similar way and theirs have been holding up for years. That being said, failure is always possible but now that I know how to make them, changing materials and re-turning them won't be a big deal if they ever fail. Thanks for watching!
Simple direct coupler would work. Pipe with some set screws will do it. For strength I would suggest water thin super glue. It will penetrate all the pores and make it strong and durable and very I lick ly to throw a chunk.
I'd consider using an old chisel and cutting it to form 45 degree angles to cut the shape for your v belt. You don't even really need a chisel, you can cut any piece of steel to make a custom shape to use on a lathe.
Those screws are going to throw it off though. A metal screw filling a vacant hole in a metal pulley is roughly the same density. A metal screw in a wooden pulley however is a higher density. So I hope you set those screws 180 degrees from one another to counter each other out. That said I don't picture them working well, and scoring on your shaft over time will be pretty immense. Might be wise to anneal them so they're softer than the shaft metal if they aren't already.
Congratulations indeed, you have a way to explain and do fantastic. I was looking for how to make (without a lathe) a metal pulley but I think the wood will be my material. Do you think the poplar plywood is fine? I would like to build a small lathe.
I have a homemade belt grinder that I made a wood pulley for. I mounted it on the motor shaft the same way. That was 20 years ago. It's still working !! Great video and great way to build them !!
An alternative would be to use easier tp make flat belt pulleys foe the temporary setup. Automotive serpentine belts run well on them. Slightly crown the motor pulley
I agree, but my local auto-parts store has SO many lengths of v-belt. They're cheap and they do offer better power transmission, so I think they're the better choice overall.
Most if not every car made in the past 20 year using a serpentine belt. Power transmission is not all that bad either. People are now using them on the old cone head metal lathes. Replacing a 3 or 4 inch leather flat belt. I have one on my old 15" sidney metal lathe. And its just an another option not wrong or right. Good video.
Greetings from SLC! Out here in the arid west, lots of older homes have swamp coolers and when people upgrade to central air, you can find discarded evaporative units out on the curb for free (like I did with mine, only I kept the motor :) )
A little late to the party; however, an issue with your initial assembly creates a problem. Even though you use the drill bit to keep them all aligned when clamping, you've only clamped them on one side from one direction. The moment you pull that drill bit, your glue surfaces slide. It acts like lubricant until it starts to set. A few solutions for those who are coming to the video this late: 1) Salt. Toss salt onto the glued surface before compressing the pulley blanks together. This will give the surfaces friction/grip which should help prevent or at least minimize the sliding. 2) Rub Joint. After sliding each of the pulley blanks onto the drill bit, you would create a rub joint. Now, on flat surfaces this is a back and forth motion; however, in this circumstance you'd simply rotate the pieces counter to each other a handful of times to create friction. This will get the chains building and should help with slippage (but won't eliminate it because you're still pulling the bit out while everything is wet). 3) Multiple clamps from countering directions. Clamps don't just create compression pressure. They also, due to their inherent design, create lateral pressures on surface pieces. This is why you need to have multiple clamps (you actually address this partially in your low workbench video, where you discuss putting clamps on both sides of the piece, alternating sides. This is to counter the torsion caused by the clamps.) from opposing directions.
If speed of the motor is problem and you are hesitant to start it on full power while lacking speed control, you can use extension cord that has on/off switch and flip it back and forth to around there control the motor speed. Its not perfect, easy and there is chance of failure with this one, but its better than trowing motor on and notice its going way too fast due miss calculated pulley ratio. Also when turning pulleys never be on front of the pulley, while chisel is near the wood and even when not just quickly check. One stuck chisel into the peace and it will explode to peaces flying pretty fast. Usually directly on axis its turning. Someone can calculate how much energy peace like that has when it turns into ICBM but you surely dont want to be hit by it.
Probably, but ash is a "ring porous" species and much more likely to split, which doesn't mean it wouldn't work. The best way to find out is to try, so if ash is what you've got, then give it a shot. There's really nothing to lose.
That motor was not very secured with only one clampon the housing. Attach the motor at the base on a bigger plywood plate with 4 pc. M8 bolts/nuts/washers. Then clamp the plate on the table with 2 heavy (Bessy) clamps.
Awesome video!!! Thank you so much for helping me , and ALOT of us out here to try and think outside the box ,,, and if we cant, then you've given us the knowledge to be able to build a larger box :)
@@RexKrueger Haha. True. I'd honestly consider it, though... a bad lathe is better than no lathe. I lack the space and the skill to make a pulley system. Thank you for the excellent content.
@@absurdistcat Not all motors are the same. Some motor architecture makes their speed easy to control with electronic means. I'd still be worried the short shaft and lack of firm rollers would make the chuck wobble around.
You'd probably kill the motor's bearings pretty quickly. The inevitable out-of-balance workpiece (especially with bowl blanks) would be pretty tough on them. If there's a tail stock (I haven't seen part 3+ yet, but since most lathes have one...), it can exert a lot of axial pressure that most motor bearings aren't designed to handle.
Anyone else notice the stack shifting when the drill bit is removed at th-cam.com/video/gjLD7LEPjoA/w-d-xo.html? Would salt in the glue joint, or snipping the head off some brads help hold things in place?
Instead of grinding down your 5/8” spade bit, why not just use a smaller drill, like 9/16” or 19/32”? If you don’t have bits with size gradations smaller than eighths, you could even use a 1/2” bit, and then sand or file the inside of the hole a little until you can knock the wheel onto the shaft with a mallet. If you have decimal-sized bits, you could use, say, a 15 mm drill bit (5/8” is a little under 16 mm).
Gary Cooper I would have used a different bit, but I don't own one in a better size. As to sanding the hole, that would be a little more likely to mess up my pulley. Spade bits are cheap and this worked for me. By all means, do it another way if you like.
There are so many ways to make pulleys and gears. It's always nice seeing how others go about it. Here's very different method you might find interesting, with the most bare minimum tools possible, and no motor: th-cam.com/video/jHYLSJqfZkg/w-d-xo.html Not as precise as yours but still relatively true. He's done a micro lathe and several other machine tools on his channel with similar methods, mainly for modelmaking.
To grind a tool, which exactly cuts the pulley v, should be the first step. And should be no problem, you have the belt as a template. Yeahhh, a little bit more inspired :-)
Your set screws might work better if you file the shaft flat where they contact it. I’m really skeptical that your wooden pulleys will work for very long. If wooden pulleys worked, someone else would have been making them a very long time ago.
People were making wooden pulleys long ago. They're economical and relatively easy to make. In the olden days, metals like brass and bronze were very expensive, and before the 20th century, aluminum was more expensive than gold. When aluminum got cheap, and especially since the advent of die casting, that made it easier to make them out of aluminum industrially, but wood is still the best material for people in small shops.
So, you want to grind a flat and throw the shaft out of balance? Rex is a very smart individual. I'm all for people offering ideas and suggestions, but your comment leads me to believe that you don't have any practical experience. I'm glad you are thinking critically, but you are missing important parts of this equation which leads you to a very wrong conclusion. I suggest you try it Rex's way, and yours. Produce a high quality video for free. And use your experience and knowledge to give an informed opinion. After you have proven your claim, feel free to insult Rex's methods. Another option would be to contribute to the community and collaborate. Talking shit in the comments is easy. Try adding something positive, it's much more difficult, and much more rewarding.
The British conquered the world with wooden sheaves. The contract for making all of those blocks was a pivotal moment in the Industrial Revolution too.
You Should see Professor Pradals ! You Tube Video !.with His two ! Ball ! Bearing ! Welded ! Tube ! Bolt ! And File ! Threaded ! Shaft Videos ! JUST ! A ! WORD ! OF ! WARNING !! WHETHER ! YOUR ! JAW ! DROPS !?? I DON'T ! KNOW ! FREDDY !!
No pulleys... Just get 3 phase frequency converter... No mechanical gears at all: motor shaft is just your spindel with SMOOTH RPM CONTROL with stable, FLAT Nm torque throughout its RPM range, from bloody 50 to bloody 3000 RPM! No belts, no pulleys, no smart plywood solutions... Don't pull your subscribers back to XIX century! ))
That should be an interesting technical challenge... Or a time-wasting disaster. It could really go either way. - Rex Krueger
I want to display this quote in my workshed, it spoke to my soul.
Dude...i can't say enough how much I appreciate your minimalist approach.
For the set screws, they will also hold better if you grind a small flat on the shaft where they go.
Good idea! I might also just drill a little divot into the shaft. Good to have options!
Great idea
Atrixium that's an excellent idea!
@@Teklectic Ore just add some strong LOCKTITE ORE EPOXY GLUE. The wooden parts will wear out long before the epoxy-locktite loosens. hehe
@@RexKrueger that would have been my suggestion.
Thanks Rex, watching your video helped me a lot. I want to make a custom step pulley that will give me 4 higher "gears" or speed settings for when I make honey dippers.
I tried a few things, but I realised I messed up my concentricity. I thought about turning it on the motor shaft, but gave up because it's too difficult to get access, unless you take the motor out of the machine.
So I was about to make the same mistake regarding concentricity again in a more sophisticated way😂
But now I know I must turn it on the motor shaft, even if I must remove the motor from the machine to do it, and then I'll also use a sawn-off wood screw for a grub screw.
Those two things were the main problem, and you solved them.
Lovely seeing this come together. I'd have just glued some extra ply to the end of the motor pulley to make the second one. You could pare out the correct bore size with a chisel right there on the motor without having to drill, & then simply part it off. You get a bit of chipout inside the bore doing it that way, but for something temporary it would be good enough & might be safer than trying it on the bandsaw.
Another thing I might consider would be to drill some holes straight through the pulleys & glue in some bits of hardwood dowel or even bamboo skewers. If that plywood is going to fail, it'll fail outwards (due to the pressure of the belt pushing it that way) so a little extra reinforcement might make things last longer, or at least buy you enough time to notice a split & glue it back together before things fly apart. Also best to check grain alignment & make sure each piece of ply/wood is at 90° to the ones either side of it, which adds an enormous amount of strength.
You saved me a few bucks when you pulled out that Titebond. I'd glued up a seat in the kitchen and you reminded me to close the top.
I've seen people make pulley's on an electric drill. You could even use the electric drill to drive the spindle. Although in this case the drill chuck will probably be to small. Great progress Rex.
I bet you could use flexible rubber hose to connect the drill to the spindle. It's a good idea! Thanks!
Yes, the automaton-maker Keith Newstead makes pulleys on the pillar drill but they're quite small - you'd need to be awfully brave to scale the process up! I tjink Rex's solution is best really.
My first lathe was a little 4 speed Atlas. I replaced the 1/2 hp motor with a 1 hp motor, built a table to put it on out of some glue lam beams, and used a link belt, which actually worked really well.
1:00
When you say that should be an interesting technical challenge or---- a time-wasting disaster. My soul felt that.
I made 2 multi v pulleys out of a chunk of 6 in. round bar for the wood lathe i built from scratch it was a nice project. It also helped that i was working in a machine shop at the time.
Thank you for all the awesome videos Rex.
I'm finding your channel most educational as I begin my journey into woodworking. I have a real rudementary knowledge of woodworking but am good with my hands and ready to try this one.
Can you pull all the lathe building videos into a play list please?
I like your low tech. approach to engineering.
Neat video! At 1:30 you suggest Cabinet grade plywood. What does that mean? A quick look at my local home depot shows standard plywood and crate grade plywood both S-P-F. There are assorted hardwood plywoods. Is it the hardwood plywood you are suggesting? None are tagged as Cabinet grade, but since they have a finish veneer I would suspect that is what cabinet builders would use.
;-) Shaking my head for not thinking of this. I have a drawer of odd ball pulleys collected from several hoarders over decades lol. Almost never have the correct size to match. This looks like a great solution. My lathe is too small to make a step pulley as large as you made, but I think I can make larger than my current pulleys, doing this.
Weird, I really should have thought of making wooden pulleys. My grandfather and great grandfather made wooden pulleys, big ones though, for saw mills. I still have some bits and pieces kicking around that my grandfather used to make them with.
Actually, wood turners may find it interesting to know that many of these big wooden pulleys had to be built, then turned round, on their permanent shafts, a temporary lathe.
When mounting the motor to turn the motor pulley. Just use the regular mounting holes. Also make sure the motor doesnt rock when mounted. The mounting surfaces on electric motors are not necessarily in one plane. This can result in what is called a soft foot. It may be necessary to shim one or more motor mounting feet to eliminate the problem. Believe when I say this is important. A soft foot when tightened can cause vibration problems. The side angle on the pulley grooves. These are normally an included angle in the range from 34° to 38 or 40°. The angle will vary depending on the diameter. On a 50 horse motor this is important. On a homemade lathe not so much. The shaft on a homemade lathe should be as heavy as you can get. The stiffer the shaft (hey you in the back, get your mind out of the gutter) the better things will go. I was once at a woodworking show and I asked the founder of Robust Lathes why they didn't design the lathe to take collets in the spindle. His reply was he didn't think most wood turners would know what to do with them. He also thought it would be a great idea since he is a trained Tool Maker. While you can build a lathe this way I think a better option would be for the headstock to be made from something more substantial than a couple of pillow block bearings and 4x4s. Maybe a transfer case from a boneyard 4WD. Actually for a small diameter wood lathe the best option would be something like a Hardinge or Elgin plain turning lathe
www.lathes.co.uk/elgin/index.html
These used to be cheaper than dirt especially if they didn't have anything besides atail stock. Rock solid for any work in their capacity they will make you realize just how cheaply made most wood lathes really are
Rex, your videos are always easy to understand at my level of knowledge, which is at a lot lower level than yours!!! I wish I had the room and tools to try to attempt half of what you put out. Thank you
You're very welcome! I bet you could do anything I'm doing here. Just go slowly.
That was cool. in the set screw holes, I like to run the wood screw in then take it out and put cyanoacrylate glue (instant glue) in the hole and get it soaking in all around.
Let it cure sufficiently or it will be a bad scene. The screws then have much greater holder power and don't wear out so quickly. Its amazing how well hardwoods do in these instances.
Difficult to find very good plywood around here - I have to drive too far. But I have lots of maple right on the property.
That video is a keeper. RH
Very slick idea on how you made your own pulleys Rex. Very Cool Sir
I'm glad you think so!
Really expensive is relative, but I get the impression Rex is "Cheap Old Bastard" cheap, as in either it's free or I keep looking.
That is the level of cheap that I have been relegated to until business picks up in the spring.
OK, I'm that cheap all year around, and I keep my eyes open all the time for materials!
Oh, and casting an Aluminum pulley is not that hard and that partial lathe will be perfect for finishing it!
Great project!! Moving soon and will have room. Now to get busy. Thanks a lot, Rex!
Can't wait to see what you come up with!
What a great series and concept, making turning available to more woodworkers. The part I am curious about is how those wooden pulleys will hold up, especially under a load, like turning that maple bowl, etc. Even with cabinet grade ply, thicker sheaves (or are they called faces?) might help prevent their breaking. Then again, I over-engineer everything, so they'll probably be fine! Keep up the good work! :)
Well, I'm not the first to use this approach. John Heisz and Mattias Wandell have both made pulleys in a similar way and theirs have been holding up for years. That being said, failure is always possible but now that I know how to make them, changing materials and re-turning them won't be a big deal if they ever fail. Thanks for watching!
I was thinking about doing this. Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍 I'm wondering if a chunk of seasoned oak would work?
Thank you i needed this information.
Your on your way to youtube greatness rex. Might have to start calling you Krugasoarus-Rex
You know, people have messed with my name in a million ways, but I've never heard that one. Well done!
Super vid mate. Clever solutions and extremely clearly explained. Thank you for sharing.
very very very excellent i like it
And there's the key, made by people in the same country, who're being paid a fair wage. Well done. Good content. Keep on keeping on. 👍
Simple direct coupler would work. Pipe with some set screws will do it. For strength I would suggest water thin super glue. It will penetrate all the pores and make it strong and durable and very I lick ly to throw a chunk.
I'd consider using an old chisel and cutting it to form 45 degree angles to cut the shape for your v belt. You don't even really need a chisel, you can cut any piece of steel to make a custom shape to use on a lathe.
Very ingenious solutions to those problems. Nice out-of-the-box, lateral thinking, as we have come to expect from you. :)
Very glad I didn't let you down!
You're awesome, thanks!
Those screws are going to throw it off though. A metal screw filling a vacant hole in a metal pulley is roughly the same density. A metal screw in a wooden pulley however is a higher density. So I hope you set those screws 180 degrees from one another to counter each other out. That said I don't picture them working well, and scoring on your shaft over time will be pretty immense. Might be wise to anneal them so they're softer than the shaft metal if they aren't already.
Great video, keep the cool videos coming!!
Sure thing!
Hey, Rex, is it worth devoting some Baltic Birch for these, or should I not bother and just go with some Sande or something?
Congratulations indeed, you have a way to explain and do fantastic. I was looking for how to make (without a lathe) a metal pulley but I think the wood will be my material. Do you think the poplar plywood is fine? I would like to build a small lathe.
That sacrificial temp-pulley is genius. I'd love to just see a scrap video of it just turning until it breaks haha.
I'm glad you liked it. It's still on the shaft and I'm leaving it for now... You never know!
I have a homemade belt grinder that I made a wood pulley for. I mounted it on the motor shaft the same way. That was 20 years ago. It's still working !!
Great video and great way to build them !!
@@fredbentley4944 wow
What, I have to make my *own* playlist of these !? :)
An alternative would be to use easier tp make flat belt pulleys foe the temporary setup. Automotive serpentine belts run well on them. Slightly crown the motor pulley
I agree, but my local auto-parts store has SO many lengths of v-belt. They're cheap and they do offer better power transmission, so I think they're the better choice overall.
Most if not every car made in the past 20 year using a serpentine belt. Power transmission is not all that bad either. People are now using them on the old cone head metal lathes. Replacing a 3 or 4 inch leather flat belt. I have one on my old 15" sidney metal lathe. And its just an another option not wrong or right. Good video.
You're totally right. It's a legitimate option.
Any recommendations as to where to source the motor?
Craigslist. Flea markets. Used washing machines. They're out there.
Greetings from SLC! Out here in the arid west, lots of older homes have swamp coolers and when people upgrade to central air, you can find discarded evaporative units out on the curb for free (like I did with mine, only I kept the motor :) )
Very interesting
A little late to the party; however, an issue with your initial assembly creates a problem. Even though you use the drill bit to keep them all aligned when clamping, you've only clamped them on one side from one direction. The moment you pull that drill bit, your glue surfaces slide. It acts like lubricant until it starts to set. A few solutions for those who are coming to the video this late:
1) Salt. Toss salt onto the glued surface before compressing the pulley blanks together. This will give the surfaces friction/grip which should help prevent or at least minimize the sliding.
2) Rub Joint. After sliding each of the pulley blanks onto the drill bit, you would create a rub joint. Now, on flat surfaces this is a back and forth motion; however, in this circumstance you'd simply rotate the pieces counter to each other a handful of times to create friction. This will get the chains building and should help with slippage (but won't eliminate it because you're still pulling the bit out while everything is wet).
3) Multiple clamps from countering directions. Clamps don't just create compression pressure. They also, due to their inherent design, create lateral pressures on surface pieces. This is why you need to have multiple clamps (you actually address this partially in your low workbench video, where you discuss putting clamps on both sides of the piece, alternating sides. This is to counter the torsion caused by the clamps.) from opposing directions.
If speed of the motor is problem and you are hesitant to start it on full power while lacking speed control, you can use extension cord that has on/off switch and flip it back and forth to around there control the motor speed. Its not perfect, easy and there is chance of failure with this one, but its better than trowing motor on and notice its going way too fast due miss calculated pulley ratio.
Also when turning pulleys never be on front of the pulley, while chisel is near the wood and even when not just quickly check. One stuck chisel into the peace and it will explode to peaces flying pretty fast. Usually directly on axis its turning. Someone can calculate how much energy peace like that has when it turns into ICBM but you surely dont want to be hit by it.
Question, would Ash wood work to make then as well ?
Probably, but ash is a "ring porous" species and much more likely to split, which doesn't mean it wouldn't work. The best way to find out is to try, so if ash is what you've got, then give it a shot. There's really nothing to lose.
Drill press has the same setup just vertical.
Brilliant!!!
That motor was not very secured with only one clampon the housing. Attach the motor at the base on a bigger plywood plate with 4 pc. M8 bolts/nuts/washers. Then clamp the plate on the table with 2 heavy (Bessy) clamps.
I just recently found your channel. I love what you!!!
Awesome video!!! Thank you so much for helping me , and ALOT of us out here to try and think outside the box ,,, and if we cant, then you've given us the knowledge to be able to build a larger box :)
I'm really glad you feel like it's helping!
Verry well explained REX, Thanks. Question: What do you think about solid / hardwood pulleys?
I think that with a close-grained wood like maple or beech, they could work just fine. Experimentation is needed.
@@RexKrueger Thanks, will try and report. Rgds Robert
Why not just attach a chuck to the motor directly, aside from no mechanical speed/torque control?
I think you just answered you own question!
@@RexKrueger Haha. True. I'd honestly consider it, though... a bad lathe is better than no lathe. I lack the space and the skill to make a pulley system. Thank you for the excellent content.
@@absurdistcat Not all motors are the same. Some motor architecture makes their speed easy to control with electronic means. I'd still be worried the short shaft and lack of firm rollers would make the chuck wobble around.
@@CanalTremocos A more advanced setup would defeat the purpose of this discussion.
You'd probably kill the motor's bearings pretty quickly. The inevitable out-of-balance workpiece (especially with bowl blanks) would be pretty tough on them. If there's a tail stock (I haven't seen part 3+ yet, but since most lathes have one...), it can exert a lot of axial pressure that most motor bearings aren't designed to handle.
I love the shirt. Too bad I can't order it in Canada.
DarthDweeb yeah, I need to get on top of that. Thanks for the nudge!
could you try europe too?
No problem!
Anyone else notice the stack shifting when the drill bit is removed at th-cam.com/video/gjLD7LEPjoA/w-d-xo.html? Would salt in the glue joint, or snipping the head off some brads help hold things in place?
nice
I'd do this but I have an account with McMaster-Carr and they get so jealous if I even look at another catalog...
Gene Hackman called, he wants his wig back.
I need this now and was wondering how to do it. Then I seen this video. Thanks Re!
Instead of grinding down your 5/8” spade bit, why not just use a smaller drill, like 9/16” or 19/32”? If you don’t have bits with size gradations smaller than eighths, you could even use a 1/2” bit, and then sand or file the inside of the hole a little until you can knock the wheel onto the shaft with a mallet. If you have decimal-sized bits, you could use, say, a 15 mm drill bit (5/8” is a little under 16 mm).
Gary Cooper I would have used a different bit, but I don't own one in a better size. As to sanding the hole, that would be a little more likely to mess up my pulley. Spade bits are cheap and this worked for me. By all means, do it another way if you like.
Step 603, talc, sand mold, aluminum pour. Nice job 👍.
There are so many ways to make pulleys and gears. It's always nice seeing how others go about it.
Here's very different method you might find interesting, with the most bare minimum tools possible, and no motor:
th-cam.com/video/jHYLSJqfZkg/w-d-xo.html
Not as precise as yours but still relatively true. He's done a micro lathe and several other machine tools on his channel with similar methods, mainly for modelmaking.
You're right, a fascinating and effective method. Thanks for sharing!
i think you sound like a Smart Alec ,,
And parts to a Nuclear are way to expensive lets build them😁
To grind a tool, which exactly cuts the pulley v, should be the first step. And should be no problem, you have the belt as a template. Yeahhh, a little bit more inspired :-)
Alfred Neumann sounds great! Do it and make a video of it. I'd love to see your approach.
2:20 MAXIMUM HARDNESS!!!
Your set screws might work better if you file the shaft flat where they contact it.
I’m really skeptical that your wooden pulleys will work for very long. If wooden pulleys worked, someone else would have been making them a very long time ago.
Well, I'm not the first.
People were making wooden pulleys long ago. They're economical and relatively easy to make. In the olden days, metals like brass and bronze were very expensive, and before the 20th century, aluminum was more expensive than gold. When aluminum got cheap, and especially since the advent of die casting, that made it easier to make them out of aluminum industrially, but wood is still the best material for people in small shops.
So, you want to grind a flat and throw the shaft out of balance? Rex is a very smart individual. I'm all for people offering ideas and suggestions, but your comment leads me to believe that you don't have any practical experience. I'm glad you are thinking critically, but you are missing important parts of this equation which leads you to a very wrong conclusion. I suggest you try it Rex's way, and yours. Produce a high quality video for free. And use your experience and knowledge to give an informed opinion. After you have proven your claim, feel free to insult Rex's methods. Another option would be to contribute to the community and collaborate. Talking shit in the comments is easy. Try adding something positive, it's much more difficult, and much more rewarding.
The British conquered the world with wooden sheaves. The contract for making all of those blocks was a pivotal moment in the Industrial Revolution too.
I have made wood pulleys l was a patternmaker
Either way, the audience wins
Buy all of your pulleys and hardware at tractor supply company it is way cheaper!
You Should see Professor Pradals ! You Tube Video !.with His two ! Ball ! Bearing ! Welded ! Tube ! Bolt ! And File ! Threaded ! Shaft Videos ! JUST ! A ! WORD ! OF ! WARNING !! WHETHER ! YOUR ! JAW ! DROPS !?? I DON'T ! KNOW ! FREDDY !!
why do you need pulleys ,you can change speed by changing volts to motor?
"concentricity" is a big word... sort of like "condescending" you mean?
Glue-hack: use a tiny pinch of salt (regular table salt) between the two surfaces that should meet. when you clamp down they wont move at all..
Love the videos, please wear a face shield when turning.
what are u doing step pulley...
There are times in my life, usually night time, when I REALLY like wobble and vibration.
HA HA HA HO HO
SO much work to avoid 80$ of VFD...
No pulleys... Just get 3 phase frequency converter... No mechanical gears at all: motor shaft is just your spindel with SMOOTH RPM CONTROL with stable, FLAT Nm torque throughout its RPM range, from bloody 50 to bloody 3000 RPM! No belts, no pulleys, no smart plywood solutions... Don't pull your subscribers back to XIX century! ))
Title emphasis: "for FREE". Content emphasis: "cabinet grade plywood, CABINET GRADE PLYWOOD, not whatever random junk, no, no, not this JUNK!" :)
Дел на минутный ролик а болтовни 10 минут
Oh Gott was ein Gelaber
'Concentricity' is a long word ...maybe Donald Trump should learn to pronounce it and use in his speeches, as his vocabulary is extremely limited.
There are times in my life, usually night time, when I REALLY like wobble and vibration.
HA HA HA
There are times in my life, usually night time, when I REALLY like wobble and vibration.
HA HA HA
There are times in my life, usually night time, when I REALLY like wobble and vibration.
HA HA HA