Also, prop the door open after you use it and let it dry out. At first I had a little bit better luck sealing mine because I placed a caulk in between those c-shaped tongue and grooves at about the 3/4 mark on each plant coming up towards the peak. Probably too late for you to do that if you did not do that so I suggest clear flex seal across the seams starting from the 9:00 and 3:00 up over the top. The roofing will also do the trick. Another tip. If you're not using it all during the summer make sure that you put lots of mouse traps in it. The mice go up into the rocks and build nests and then when you go to turn it on the next time it will start billowing smoke and the smell of mouse urine. I had to take the rocks out and soak them in vinegar for a day. Anyway if you have any other questions having owned one for 22 years I could tell you what to do to preserve it. Mine is still going but it did get a little ugly in some places because of rot but I have addressed that and I'm still enjoying it
Thanks for the tips. Aesthetics aside, could you solve the water seepage by using an ordinary $16 waterproof tarp from Amazon tied around the barrel? I'll try the caulk but I'd like to know how much a plan B could run me.
I think that the corrugated roof is the easiest and most practical solution. What I had to do was a bit drastic but I was able to save it. That said if you like the look of the sauna as is try that clear flex seal from the spray can. Make sure that you really drive it into the seams between the boards from 9:00 to 3:00 across the top. You might need two or three cans. After it cures try soaking the sauna again and see what you missed. It took me three tries to get everything sealed. Good luck and getting that sauna!
If I don't comment no one will. I've owned and almost heaven sauna now for 21 years. At one point I put a tarp over the top but that was kind of ugly but it did the trick of keeping the water out. The other thing you've got to watch is rot on the edges of those planks. Every other year I would hit them with some spar varnish Marine type. As for the scenes if you want to keep the exact look that you have get some clear flex seal in a can and spray all of the seams above the midriff across the top to the other side midriff. I actually ended up using flex seal black paint to make a black cap and spar varnishing the entire rest of the sauna. Now keep in mind I've made the mistakes and I'm remedying them now so what I'm doing is a bit to catch up. Being preventative is the best way to go. I would also make sure that plenty of air is passing underneath it. I made the same mistake of just having the choice place it above the service but couple of railroad ties That crisscross the Joyce would avoid the bottom being to damp. I had to have my electric stove repaired one time but I used this still very frequently. Good luck. you can also shingle the top of it like a shingle roof and that would look really nice too you just have to cap the peak. They also have a corrugated metal roof that you can just drape over the top and that certainly works too
@@devachapman6315 Hi there. I paid close to that over 20 years ago so I think it's a reasonable price. I don't have any experience with the pine ones which are cheaper, but I think cedar is the way to go. Periodically check it during the summer because mice like to live inside the stove. I've had to remove the rocks and clean it up really well and of course wash and clean the Rock's really well. I have a pond that's deep enough to do a plunge in, so yes indeed I am still using it and enjoying it. You'll never regret getting one of these they are great
@@hoover2501 thanks for the feedback. I live in the Wyoming/Idaho boarder in the Tetons so we get ton of snow. I am worries the snow will drip through and ruin the inside. I have seen ppl add the corrugated metal roofing. Thoughts ? Oh and yes cedar is the only way to go!
@@devachapman6315 Metal is good and plastic corrugated sheets work pretty well too. That is definitely the best way to go as far as keeping water out. And again the other major thing is make sure it's at least 10 in off the ground. It should last you a lifetime. Enjoy and in good health.
Tap down the cedar in the corner where the door is catching. Work your way left until it closes. Take your time, go easy. It’s a simple fix. Also, make sure that you have enough staves in. You have to put more then actually fit around the front & back walls so the boards are popping up. Then, tighten the crap out of it for a good seal. It’ll never be water tight until the wood expands or you seal it (which I wouldn’t do). Good luck!
@@diversityandcomicsbear2625 it needs to be able to expand and contract as the wood swells and gets smaller with temperature and humidity swings. sealing would not be a good ideal. Just a tarp would be fine.
The least expensive solution would be corrugated panels on the top half of the sauna.... A more expensive solution, but better for some people would putting it under a pole barn.... You only need 2 metal trusses (you can space them up to 12 feet) with 4 poles to put up the roof on top!!
Oh no! My brand new untreated cedar barrel sauna from Almost Heaven is not waterproof! Ah, duh. It is a barrel, constructed of untreated wood. Ask any cooperage; wooden barrels, like wooden boats, leak until the staves (planks on a boat) swell from moisture, making them “watertight”. Your stated concern about barrel sauna owners, living in “wet areas”, may always have a leaking, wet sauna. Not after in rains. I know this because we have an Almost Heaven Huntington cedar barrel sauna and live on the North Oregon coast. An area climatically known as a “Seasonal rain-forest zone” which means it rains a lot. In fact, our sauna arrived just before Thanksgiving last fall. It was stored indoors until the middle of January, when we actually had three days in a row without rain to assemble it. At first, it leaked. Within three days of scattered showers, it is tight and remains so. Looking at your video I can only guess you might be living in an arid or semi-arid location. If so, you might consider eventually covering just the top half of the sauna. There are different “covers” commercially available; some are tarp like, others a composite roofing material. My choice would be sheet metal roofing. You can find images of barrel saunas with DIY coverings around the internet. You can also apply an exterior “waterproofing” sealer (which we did to ours because salt air, wind and rain just beat the crap out of any exposed wood, including cedar) but be aware: use ONLY non-toxic, preferably all natural sealers. They are fairly expensive but better than breathing in heated VOCs. Lastly, if you sauna continues to leak, consider adding another stave or partial stave. Almost Heaven supplied us with extras, lots of extras. So, you got that going for you. Happy sweating.
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Please continue to post content about your sauna. There are few resources available to potential buyers like myself. Thanks in advance!
Also, prop the door open after you use it and let it dry out. At first I had a little bit better luck sealing mine because I placed a caulk in between those c-shaped tongue and grooves at about the 3/4 mark on each plant coming up towards the peak. Probably too late for you to do that if you did not do that so I suggest clear flex seal across the seams starting from the 9:00 and 3:00 up over the top. The roofing will also do the trick. Another tip. If you're not using it all during the summer make sure that you put lots of mouse traps in it. The mice go up into the rocks and build nests and then when you go to turn it on the next time it will start billowing smoke and the smell of mouse urine. I had to take the rocks out and soak them in vinegar for a day. Anyway if you have any other questions having owned one for 22 years I could tell you what to do to preserve it. Mine is still going but it did get a little ugly in some places because of rot but I have addressed that and I'm still enjoying it
Thanks for the tips.
Aesthetics aside, could you solve the water seepage by using an ordinary $16 waterproof tarp from Amazon tied around the barrel?
I'll try the caulk but I'd like to know how much a plan B could run me.
@@jelly497
A corrugated metal roof is the best solution by FAR.
It will preserve it forever
Without bitumen shingle roof it will leak like OceanGate's Titan
Here in Ireland you get bitumen roof sheets with a sauna like that. You could loosen the straps, add some roofing sheets, and re tighten
Can you put wood glue in between each of the wood slats? Would that stop the water
wow thanks for that , good to know!
I think that the corrugated roof is the easiest and most practical solution. What I had to do was a bit drastic but I was able to save it. That said if you like the look of the sauna as is try that clear flex seal from the spray can. Make sure that you really drive it into the seams between the boards from 9:00 to 3:00 across the top. You might need two or three cans. After it cures try soaking the sauna again and see what you missed. It took me three tries to get everything sealed. Good luck and getting that sauna!
Did you treat the wood with anything, I’ve ordered one and the wood hasn’t been treated and thinking of treating with some deck oil .
Are the 6 person saunas better? I’m thinking a tarp will do the trick (who cares about looks anyway) but the mice issue sucks big time.
If I don't comment no one will. I've owned and almost heaven sauna now for 21 years. At one point I put a tarp over the top but that was kind of ugly but it did the trick of keeping the water out. The other thing you've got to watch is rot on the edges of those planks. Every other year I would hit them with some spar varnish Marine type. As for the scenes if you want to keep the exact look that you have get some clear flex seal in a can and spray all of the seams above the midriff across the top to the other side midriff. I actually ended up using flex seal black paint to make a black cap and spar varnishing the entire rest of the sauna. Now keep in mind I've made the mistakes and I'm remedying them now so what I'm doing is a bit to catch up. Being preventative is the best way to go. I would also make sure that plenty of air is passing underneath it. I made the same mistake of just having the choice place it above the service but couple of railroad ties That crisscross the Joyce would avoid the bottom being to damp. I had to have my electric stove repaired one time but I used this still very frequently. Good luck. you can also shingle the top of it like a shingle roof and that would look really nice too you just have to cap the peak. They also have a corrugated metal roof that you can just drape over the top and that certainly works too
thanks for the info. coming in around 4.5-5K thinks its worth it? or better DIY something?
@@devachapman6315
Hi there. I paid close to that over 20 years ago so I think it's a reasonable price. I don't have any experience with the pine ones which are cheaper, but I think cedar is the way to go. Periodically check it during the summer because mice like to live inside the stove. I've had to remove the rocks and clean it up really well and of course wash and clean the Rock's really well. I have a pond that's deep enough to do a plunge in, so yes indeed I am still using it and enjoying it. You'll never regret getting one of these they are great
@@hoover2501 thanks for the feedback. I live in the Wyoming/Idaho boarder in the Tetons so we get ton of snow. I am worries the snow will drip through and ruin the inside.
I have seen ppl add the corrugated metal roofing.
Thoughts ?
Oh and yes cedar is the only way to go!
@@devachapman6315
Metal is good and plastic corrugated sheets work pretty well too. That is definitely the best way to go as far as keeping water out. And again the other major thing is make sure it's at least 10 in off the ground. It should last you a lifetime. Enjoy and in good health.
You have convinced me that if I'm to get this brand and model, it will need to be under a roof or in the basement.
wow, thanks for posting this. We were considering getting one of these, but seems pretty low quality...
We love ours. Also, see my comment above if interested.
Buahahahha “little bit of water!!!!” 🤣 that shit will be full of water in one rain fall
Tap down the cedar in the corner where the door is catching. Work your way left until it closes. Take your time, go easy. It’s a simple fix.
Also, make sure that you have enough staves in. You have to put more then actually fit around the front & back walls so the boards are popping up. Then, tighten the crap out of it for a good seal. It’ll never be water tight until the wood expands or you seal it (which I wouldn’t do).
Good luck!
Why would you not seal it?
@@diversityandcomicsbear2625 it needs to be able to expand and contract as the wood swells and gets smaller with temperature and humidity swings. sealing would not be a good ideal. Just a tarp would be fine.
Can’t you caulk the joints before install?
Add shingles???
I put a 8x6 tarp over the top half on mine. Left the bottoms uncovered for ventilation.
Will the heat melt the tarp or you take off each time you use it?
Hey everyone. They sell a rain jacket for it!
maybe shingles of the top half?
Dang that stinks that it leaks that bad. Thanks for the review
The least expensive solution would be corrugated panels on the top half of the sauna.... A more expensive solution, but better for some people would putting it under a pole barn.... You only need 2 metal trusses (you can space them up to 12 feet) with 4 poles to put up the roof on top!!
disappointing - wonder how effective shingles are?
Seals as it expands
Easy fix with plenty of options.
Ice and shields membrane will do the job
Don’t thry sell the top cover for it?
Yes they do
Your temp sensor on the back wall is too low.
Get the cover FFS. Also tighten the bands and use some Cedar Stain. Again, get a cover.
I don't want to be rained on when I'm in the sauna, and I don't want a moldy sauna either!
Oh no! My brand new untreated cedar barrel sauna from Almost Heaven is not waterproof!
Ah, duh. It is a barrel, constructed of untreated wood. Ask any cooperage; wooden barrels, like wooden boats, leak until the staves (planks on a boat) swell from moisture, making them “watertight”. Your stated concern about barrel sauna owners, living in “wet areas”, may always have a leaking, wet sauna. Not after in rains. I know this because we have an Almost Heaven Huntington cedar barrel sauna and live on the North Oregon coast. An area climatically known as a “Seasonal rain-forest zone” which means it rains a lot. In fact, our sauna arrived just before Thanksgiving last fall. It was stored indoors until the middle of January, when we actually had three days in a row without rain to assemble it. At first, it leaked. Within three days of scattered showers, it is tight and remains so.
Looking at your video I can only guess you might be living in an arid or semi-arid location. If so, you might consider eventually covering just the top half of the sauna. There are different “covers” commercially available; some are tarp like, others a composite roofing material. My choice would be sheet metal roofing. You can find images of barrel saunas with DIY coverings around the internet. You can also apply an exterior “waterproofing” sealer (which we did to ours because salt air, wind and rain just beat the crap out of any exposed wood, including cedar) but be aware: use ONLY non-toxic, preferably all natural sealers. They are fairly expensive but better than breathing in heated VOCs.
Lastly, if you sauna continues to leak, consider adding another stave or partial stave. Almost Heaven supplied us with extras, lots of extras. So, you got that going for you. Happy sweating.
Hi, thx for your comment. What non toxic exterior sealer would you recommend? Also, do think caulking the top would a good idea? Thx.
Was thinking to buy from heaven saunas ., deffinately not going to do that now , they even did not bother to cover roof
they are suppose to be that way.
I think you have a defeated one. Dont listen to their Customer Service blowing smoke at you
I’m out. No way would I buy that.
Ya I don't like that.
That’s unacceptable!