As an engineer, I LOVE the detailed information. This is the best how-to I've come across and will be recommending your page to as many of my laser buddies as I can.
I have a question and i cant get a straight answer on this question I have an atom stack p7 m 30 5.5w laser is it capable enough to etch tile using the norton white tile method?
Love this site for anyone new or seeking tips. He’s to the point without a lot of time consuming jibber jabber like others do. Sometimes I think he needs to slow down a bit but other channels I looked at for help jabber too much about things that have no relation to the help you are looking for and you get sidetracked and forget half of what they were teaching. I’m new to laser, I’m 70 and trying to expand my craft shop. Have an Atezr P20. My first week couldn’t burn a dam thing. This man got me going. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Excellent job! Thoroughly explained and easy to understand even for a newbie. I appreciate the science explanation so much. Really helps to understand the gestalt. Thanks.
Thank you for your video. I spend more then 50 hours doing laser engraving over my weekends as a hobby. Only managed to get two tiles where I am happy with the results. I use LightBurn with a 15W diode engraving machine & learned engraving from TH-cam. I will definitely follow your instruction closely to try again. Not giving up so easily.
Thank you so much for your incredibly kind words and generous support! I'm thrilled to hear that you found the video extremely helpful and that it contained all the necessary information you were looking for. Your appreciation means a lot, and it's viewers like you that motivate me to keep creating content.
Hey bro just a suggestion but at the end you should do closeup shots of the items you made that are in the video. It gives us the audience a better understanding of how it will turn out. Showing them in the video is great already but a real closeup shot at the end would be just extra awesomeness. Just found your videos btw seriously top notch content man!
Thank you for pointing this out. I will try to add more closeup shots in future videos but without a macro lens it would be difficult to capture all the details. I'm looking at getting one.
@@pjdegroot1 prepare a 1/3 ratio with water, put in an atomiser then, once the tile is dry (careful on not put your fingers on top of the tile), use lightburn or similar to run a material test starting from 10% power and see which setting works well for you. Mine is 70 mm/s at 70% power
knowledge in videos is excellent. I am new to this, have the d1 pro 10w, very good info for me to try. I also subscribed. keep the videos coming. what about the multicolor tile?
Awesome, thanks for the sub. I have everything set for the color tile video, but I'm doing some work for improving audio quality in my shop. I'll upload it within a week, stay subscribed.
Great video. Maybe you can help me. My picture is not photo realistic at all. I made my color image greyscale at 254 dpi. I didn't make any adjustments in light burn. Not even size. I ran a test grid and picked the best at the highest speed. It was close to your settings. I also selected pass through. It's a jpg image. Any suggestions as to it is so bad? I wish I could upload the picture
You can mail it to me at mail@mellowpine.com Whenever I use pass through mode I first process it on imag-r. You could try using the Jarvis or stucki mode
When you mention the 5, 10, and 20 watt lasers are you referring to advertised wattage or actual wattage? I have an Ortur Laser Master 2 20w however its actual power is only 5 watts. Thank you for the videos.
Hello, My friend. The reason white ink is used is because it usually contains a certain proportion of titanium dioxide, which is a white dye. It is its presence that reacts at high temperatures with the tile varnish and produces the dark color. In addition to the factors you presented, one that also influences is the thickness of paint applied.
Hi there, really good videos comeing from your way thanks! I have a 20w xtool and did a test pattern today (not your) and one some spots it burned really deep and the whole test was a failure. I downloaded your test and going to try that but it also says 100% power in it, isnt that to much power from a 20w?
How would this have compared if you'd used the xtool p2, do you think? Better/worse? Or different, how? I'm debating between shelling out for the p2 and all its fun gadgets vs getting a cheaper diode to start, and pairing it with manual woodwork and such. I would have said p2, but you have so many creative videos for the diode. If I am aiming at small business level production, should I just get the p2 (or a better co2), or is there a diode that could handle the pro-sumer workload?
For engraving on ceramic tile with a 10W laser, I got the best results for 90% power and 2400mm/min. For other materials, xTool provides a detailed material settings table. You can use the settings corresponding to their 10W module as a reference for your projects. www.xtool.com/pages/material-settings
Hi, For engraving metal business cards, I got the best results at 40% power and 3000 mm/min speed with my xTool D1 pro 20W. But it is always best to perform test runs to find the best settings for your setup.
I always try to keep bi-directional scanning on, it reduces the time taken to complete. You can keep it on for most cases. However, if you want to engrave material which cannot handle much heat you can keep it off, this will help the material cool down between scans.
The results can vary due to various factors, such as the difference in the spot size of the laser, the quality of coating used, type of tile, drying time of the coating, etc. You should use these settings as a reference and perform test runs to find the optimal settings for your setup. Also, make sure the lens of your laser is clean.
If you get vertical striping while using horizontal scan, there is something wrong with your laser (probably improper belt tension) or your software (try a different software). If you have vertical striping while using vertical scan, try reducing the line spacing. It could also be due to a large spot size. Which laser are you using and what is your spot size?
Unfortunately you can only engrave images as a whole on LaserGRBL and cannot engrave different parts at different powers. You can make a row of squares using photoshop or image editing software and shade different squares using different % of blackness and then engrave the row at different speeds one by one. This will take a lot of time and the results might not be accurate. I'm compiling a library of designs, I'll upload the g-code files for the tests, you can run them directly on LaserGRBL, hope to bring it out soon.
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Perfect presentation. The summary upfront and the process throughout.
Excellent video. So much to learn. Thank you
As an engineer, I LOVE the detailed information. This is the best how-to I've come across and will be recommending your page to as many of my laser buddies as I can.
Thank you so much. I'd really appreciate it if you share it with other laser users.
I have a question and i cant get a straight answer on this question
I have an atom stack p7 m 30 5.5w laser is it capable enough to etch tile using the norton white tile method?
Yes
Love this site for anyone new or seeking tips. He’s to the point without a lot of time consuming jibber jabber like others do. Sometimes I think he needs to slow down a bit but other channels I looked at for help jabber too much about things that have no relation to the help you are looking for and you get sidetracked and forget half of what they were teaching.
I’m new to laser, I’m 70 and trying to expand my craft shop. Have an Atezr P20.
My first week couldn’t burn a dam thing.
This man got me going.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I really appreciate your lovely words. Glad to be of help. Stay subscribed for more videos like these.
Wow, thank you for all of the information. I appreciate the time you took to explain and show the process.
Excellent job! Thoroughly explained and easy to understand even for a newbie. I appreciate the science explanation so much. Really helps to understand the gestalt. Thanks.
Thank you. Glad it was helpful.
You are one of my favorite creators..your video on multi color tile was incredible
Thank you so much!!!
One of the best engraving technics channel. Thanks and keep posting interesting videos about engraving methods.
More to come!
Thank you for your video. I spend more then 50 hours doing laser engraving over my weekends as a hobby. Only managed to get two tiles where I am happy with the results. I use LightBurn with a 15W diode engraving machine & learned engraving from TH-cam. I will definitely follow your instruction closely to try again. Not giving up so easily.
Yup, Never give up. Good luck!!!
Amazing..will be following this page
on glass, no white, black.
on tile, now it's white 🤷🏽♂️
I type to quick.
you explained it very well. Thank you
Thanks for Yet Another Brilliantly Informative vidclip ..... Much appreciated ..... Best to You and Yours from Christchurch, New Zealand
Thank you Keith. Happy Lasering 😁
Yup haven't even finished the whole vid, but you got a subscriber for this one, thanks man you video, love how you included the 5w D1 as well!!!
Thanks for the sub, really appreaciate it.
Thank you very much - this video was extrem helpful and contains all necessary information. Very well done!
Thank you so much for your incredibly kind words and generous support! I'm thrilled to hear that you found the video extremely helpful and that it contained all the necessary information you were looking for. Your appreciation means a lot, and it's viewers like you that motivate me to keep creating content.
Thanks, your videos are very thorough
You're welcome. I'm glad you like the videos. 😊
Great video! Very detailed. Very. succinct. Very much appreciated!
Thank you so much
Hey bro just a suggestion but at the end you should do closeup shots of the items you made that are in the video. It gives us the audience a better understanding of how it will turn out. Showing them in the video is great already but a real closeup shot at the end would be just extra awesomeness. Just found your videos btw seriously top notch content man!
Thank you for pointing this out. I will try to add more closeup shots in future videos but without a macro lens it would be difficult to capture all the details. I'm looking at getting one.
Thx. I'll be trying this
Cool, good luck!!!
great video very informative
Glad you found the video helpful 😊
You should try TIO2 powder, mixed with water (1 to 3 ratio) then use an atomizer. Leave it to dry and you can etch at a fraction of the price.
Oh, cool. Will give it a try some time. Thanks for sharing 😊
I am using the TIO2, but my tile comes out blank. (grayscale, 3000, 60%) Suggestions?
@@pjdegroot1 prepare a 1/3 ratio with water, put in an atomiser then, once the tile is dry (careful on not put your fingers on top of the tile), use lightburn or similar to run a material test starting from 10% power and see which setting works well for you. Mine is 70 mm/s at 70% power
Thank you.. great job 🙌
Welcome 😊
knowledge in videos is excellent. I am new to this, have the d1 pro 10w, very good info for me to try. I also subscribed. keep the videos coming. what about the multicolor tile?
Awesome, thanks for the sub. I have everything set for the color tile video, but I'm doing some work for improving audio quality in my shop. I'll upload it within a week, stay subscribed.
Hi, the multicolor tile video is out.
Great video. Maybe you can help me. My picture is not photo realistic at all. I made my color image greyscale at 254 dpi. I didn't make any adjustments in light burn. Not even size. I ran a test grid and picked the best at the highest speed. It was close to your settings. I also selected pass through. It's a jpg image. Any suggestions as to it is so bad? I wish I could upload the picture
You can mail it to me at mail@mellowpine.com
Whenever I use pass through mode I first process it on imag-r. You could try using the Jarvis or stucki mode
and which settings should i do for 1.6W (1600mW) laser?
When you mention the 5, 10, and 20 watt lasers are you referring to advertised wattage or actual wattage? I have an Ortur Laser Master 2 20w however its actual power is only 5 watts. Thank you for the videos.
I always use the actual output optical power.
Thats Norton White Tile method ..been around for 6 years
Hello, My friend. The reason white ink is used is because it usually contains a certain proportion of titanium dioxide, which is a white dye. It is its presence that reacts at high temperatures with the tile varnish and produces the dark color. In addition to the factors you presented, one that also influences is the thickness of paint applied.
Yes you are right. Thank you for pointing it out. :)
I use powdered titanium dioxide in a spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol. It works better than paint and is super easy to wipe off.
Hi there, really good videos comeing from your way thanks!
I have a 20w xtool and did a test pattern today (not your) and one some spots it burned really deep and the whole test was a failure. I downloaded your test and going to try that but it also says 100% power in it, isnt that to much power from a 20w?
Yes 100% could be too much power for materials like wood, the test pattern tries the power between 0-100 so that you get an idea of the sweet spot.
How would this have compared if you'd used the xtool p2, do you think? Better/worse? Or different, how?
I'm debating between shelling out for the p2 and all its fun gadgets vs getting a cheaper diode to start, and pairing it with manual woodwork and such. I would have said p2, but you have so many creative videos for the diode. If I am aiming at small business level production, should I just get the p2 (or a better co2), or is there a diode that could handle the pro-sumer workload?
The job would have been faster on the P2 owing to more power. A CO2 is a good choice for business purposes.
Cheers, thank you. The P2 is definitely on my buy list now. Though... I am seriously considering getting the F1 first. So shiny. So fast.
Good morning I just joined and I would like to know with Sculpfun S30 10 Watt what parameters to use Thank you
For engraving on ceramic tile with a 10W laser, I got the best results for 90% power and 2400mm/min. For other materials, xTool provides a detailed material settings table. You can use the settings corresponding to their 10W module as a reference for your projects.
www.xtool.com/pages/material-settings
Thank you very much for your reply good day regards
Hi! I have a D1Pro 20W and need to engrave photos on anodized aluminum business cards. What settings do you recommend? Thanks!
Hi,
For engraving metal business cards, I got the best results at 40% power and 3000 mm/min speed with my xTool D1 pro 20W. But it is always best to perform test runs to find the best settings for your setup.
Thank you so much! I appreciate you!@@MellowpineLasers
Have you used the bi directional feature of lightburn? How does that affect your settings?
I always try to keep bi-directional scanning on, it reduces the time taken to complete. You can keep it on for most cases. However, if you want to engrave material which cannot handle much heat you can keep it off, this will help the material cool down between scans.
Sorry, I didn't catch that. What kind of paint are you using here?
I used an aerosol white spray paint for this project, but any white paint will do the trick. Make sure to perform test run to get the best results.
I'm running a 10w diode and I don't even get a mark at anything faster than 70mm/s at 100% power. What am I doing wrong? Coated with titanium dioxide.
The results can vary due to various factors, such as the difference in the spot size of the laser, the quality of coating used, type of tile, drying time of the coating, etc. You should use these settings as a reference and perform test runs to find the optimal settings for your setup.
Also, make sure the lens of your laser is clean.
You also need to change your speed settings to mm/m, not mm/s, thats usually used when using Co2 lasers
Is it possible to do two passes at 90 degrees, to reduce the vertical striping?
If you get vertical striping while using horizontal scan, there is something wrong with your laser (probably improper belt tension) or your software (try a different software). If you have vertical striping while using vertical scan, try reducing the line spacing. It could also be due to a large spot size. Which laser are you using and what is your spot size?
I used the settings for ceramic on a photo on my 10 watt diode. The image came through but it was light. I wiped it off and the image wiped off too.
Please try a higher power setting. This happens when the power is too low.
@@MellowpineLasers Just getting back to let you know that it worked with a higher setting.
Hi do I need to use dithering lgrb
For laserGRBL, you have to select 1bit BW Dithering, and under Dithering options, select Jarvis or Stucki mode.
can i do pawer and speed tests in lastergbrl as i carnt use lightburn
Unfortunately you can only engrave images as a whole on LaserGRBL and cannot engrave different parts at different powers. You can make a row of squares using photoshop or image editing software and shade different squares using different % of blackness and then engrave the row at different speeds one by one. This will take a lot of time and the results might not be accurate. I'm compiling a library of designs, I'll upload the g-code files for the tests, you can run them directly on LaserGRBL, hope to bring it out soon.
Can the F1 cut ceramic tile?
No, it cannot cut ceramic tile.
When I use grey scale my image just burns the tile completely black?
You either need to set the max and mix power setting properly or
use the jarvis mode.
@@MellowpineLasers thank you so much I will try do a lower power. Did I somehow made both high and low dark maybe?
سلام عليكم ❤❤❤❤
It’s way to light