Hi Brad, What a great video, you are a lifesaver, I have a 1947 Ford Deluxe and the window machanism is completly rusted and I had no idea how things went together.
Very Good Video. Except here is a TIP. When you roll DOWN the regulator, most regulators have a stop. It is either a screw in one of the gears accessible through a hole, or on this 38 looks like at the end of the channel. Removing the "screw in the gear "or the "tab on the channel" will allow the window to crank down further and the arms to rotate OUT of the channel while at the bottom and visible to work. Then take the middle roller with screw out of channel. Then lift the glass AND channel out thru the top. (Recommend putting the glass in the rubber and channel first) then drop down the door and reverse the above. You can see to maneuver the end arm springs going in the channel track this way. Again good video.
The video is a big help. Good tip on locating the track to the glass. I'm fighting a '36 right now. I learned a couple of things that made life a little easier. I sprayed the lower window seal (rubber) and the metal track with silicone lube before pushing the track on the glass. This helped a great deal. The other thing I did was to use a piece of wire wrapped once around the regulator arm next to the guide roller in such a way as to depress the spring loaded tensioners. A couple of twists holds the spring down. Cut the wire off after the regulator arms are in the track. Holding the glass while getting the regulator arms on the track is another problem. I attached two long pieces of duct tape to the glass vertically, one inside, one outside, leaving about 12 inches tail, lowered the glass inside the door until I could see the metal track through the hole in the inner door. At that point just stick the "tail" of the duct tape to the outside of the inner door. This will hold the glass while you fight with the regulator.
Thanks Brad. I just picked up my '38 pick up this week, the first job is to fix a window that stops half way up, How good is TH-cam, Love your truck,,,Cheers mate from Australia.
Thanks a lot. I got my regulators and window channels un assembled and was having a heck of a time figuring which way they went together. I would be fighting with them for some time to come if I hadn't found your video
this is a great help. I have a 35 I am working on right now . the 35 has a smaller hole in the door so this helps because you cant see in there very well. Heading to the garage now.
Brad, thank you..I have now a 47 International kb2 5.7 Hemi powered. They tried to install p/w's..yuck..now I have to slowly find all the parts back to cranking it...got the glass from my old one.....here's hoping!!!! Marty
Larry, the door handles should just have a pin behind the escutcheon that can be pushed out. I have a small pick styled screwdriver, while pushing back on the spring in the escutcheon you can gain access to the pin, then just push it out. Hope this helps
Hi Brad your video is very helpful. Working on installing the rear window regulators for my ‘39 Tudor. I’ve purchased new glass channels from Ecklers. How does the stud below track inside the window opening? In a trial fit it does not line up with the slot opening inside the car. Does the stud below the track supposed to act as a limiter and catch in the opening towards the rear of the regulator? Thanks!
So what I've learned here is to put the entire mechanism into the door and the glass is essentially last. I've been struggling for hours putting the window into the Bailey channel with no mechanism. I will remove the regulator rail from the bottom of the glass and start again.
Trying to find a kit for a 37 ford sedan .. th ey are missing entirely..someone made plexiglass windows that slide up and down and held up with coat hangers where they drilled through the bottom of each window and just shove them through
What I’m not getting… did you install the glass channel guide onto the regulator and then insert the glass as your last move.. to insert glass into glass channel? Or did you insert glass into channel and then install the two through the top and connect to regulator?
I didn't see any mention of the upper left glass channel (driver side would be to the rear of the car). This seems to be in the way when trying to remove glass. Any advice or comment?
I'm wrestling with a 35 Ford fordor glass install and your video confirmed my thoughts. I am sure the next car will be a lot easier but this bad boy has been kicking my &%^$.. Thanks for the flick, it has helped. R.J. in east TX.
Brad, I have a 37 5 window coupe. This video helped a lot because I bought my car disassembled and discovered my regulators were incorrect. The roller bearing that engages the slot n the regulator I have been trying to purchase but everyone seems to be out or has discontinued the item. Any way you could provide any dimensions for me? Stud length and bearing diameter? Thanks for the video!
Hi Brad, would you happen to have a part number for the molding that you are using to hold the glass into the window retainer. I called out to Bob Drake and they had no idea what it is and wanted me to window tape. Thanks
I used glass setting tape that I purchased from Bob Drake, I just looked it up online and it's part number B-37193-C. They have different thicknesses for your application, so make sure you get the right one. If this isn't what you're talking about, let me know.
I have a ‘39 ford deluxe that I’m fighting, i have the regulator and window in and I had no issue doing so, what I’m have an issue with is the glass slides side to side and the window will not roll up and down smoothly, I usually cut my own flat glass but the customer brought me all the windows so I’m afraid whoever did so cut the window too short
Push back spring loaded escutcheon and tap pin out with a pointed tool of slightly smaller diameter. In my case, I modified a cheapo screwdriver to have a point.
Thanks Brad S, Iám having trouble with my 1939 Mercury 8 windows, Bob drake, Dennis Carpenter, and more tell me there is no window felt kits made for them !! (4 door sedan)so this may mean fitting some other track, and or hot rod electric set up? not great with positive ground, have to change all electics to 12v neg ground I guess, this video will guide me some on what to make if I can thankyou. Anyone out there fitted out 39' mercury door widows? need a little help..please..
Very good job explaining the window replacement but this is a 1938 car, not a truck and truck doors are different. It appears your truck started as a 1938 Standard coupe or 4 door sedan by looking at the front fenders, hood and grill. The trucks had no removable garnish and only had a small inspection hole to work through. The car door is mach easier to work on.
Good catch, i did build this pickup by using the front half of a 4 door sedan because I love the 38 standard grill. So, yes the doors are a passenger car not a pickup.
Good video, 8 years on and still very helpful
Hi Brad, What a great video, you are a lifesaver, I have a 1947 Ford Deluxe and the window machanism is completly rusted and I had no idea how things went together.
Thanks for the timeless video! I disassembled my '37 sedan five years ago and didn't make very good notes. Your video saved the day!
Very Good Video. Except here is a TIP. When you roll DOWN the regulator, most regulators have a stop. It is either a screw in one of the gears accessible through a hole, or on this 38 looks like at the end of the channel. Removing the "screw in the gear "or the "tab on the channel" will allow the window to crank down further and the arms to rotate OUT of the channel while at the bottom and visible to work. Then take the middle roller with screw out of channel. Then lift the glass AND channel out thru the top. (Recommend putting the glass in the rubber and channel first) then drop down the door and reverse the above. You can see to maneuver the end arm springs going in the channel track this way. Again good video.
The video is a big help. Good tip on locating the track to the glass. I'm fighting a '36 right now. I learned a couple of things that made life a little easier. I sprayed the lower window seal (rubber) and the metal track with silicone lube before pushing the track on the glass. This helped a great deal. The other thing I did was to use a piece of wire wrapped once around the regulator arm next to the guide roller in such a way as to depress the spring loaded tensioners. A couple of twists holds the spring down. Cut the wire off after the regulator arms are in the track. Holding the glass while getting the regulator arms on the track is another problem. I attached two long pieces of duct tape to the glass vertically, one inside, one outside, leaving about 12 inches tail, lowered the glass inside the door until I could see the metal track through the hole in the inner door. At that point just stick the "tail" of the duct tape to the outside of the inner door. This will hold the glass while you fight with the regulator.
Thanks Brad. I just picked up my '38 pick up this week, the first job is to fix a window that stops half way up, How good is TH-cam, Love your truck,,,Cheers mate from Australia.
thanks for taking the time to show us some tips
Big help on '35 Ford pickup. We were reversed in thinking the key needed to be in the guide slot first. This changes everything. Thanks.
Thanks a lot. I got my regulators and window channels un assembled and was having a heck of a time figuring which way they went together. I would be fighting with them for some time to come if I hadn't found your video
This video was a huge help for me in installing door glass in my 36 Dodge (almost identical mechanism). Thanks!
Easier door to work on.
Perhaps he could do the same for a 47 Dodge pickup.
this is a great help. I have a 35 I am working on right now . the 35 has a smaller hole in the door so this helps because you cant see in there very well. Heading to the garage now.
This video is a great help to me. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
God bless
Leon
Good video. Thanks for posting it.
Thank you for this video.... I was working on a '36 today and this will help me to get it aligned better!!
Thanks for your help . will still take some time but great job on the video
Glenn Miller Thank You Thank Yo Thank You for taking the tome to share this. I have a 1936 Tudor. It was all apart and had nothing to go by.
Nicely done. Thank you for your skills
Brad, thank you..I have now a 47 International kb2 5.7 Hemi powered. They tried to install p/w's..yuck..now I have to slowly find all the parts back to cranking it...got the glass from my old one.....here's hoping!!!! Marty
Thank you very much for a great and very informative video! =)
Excellent, helpful video...
Thanks so much
Thanks this video was very helpful. Good job!
Thank you so much I’ve got a lot to learn I’m concerned about how do I get the doorhandles off so I can get the panel off can you help me
Larry, the door handles should just have a pin behind the escutcheon that can be pushed out. I have a small pick styled screwdriver, while pushing back on the spring in the escutcheon you can gain access to the pin, then just push it out. Hope this helps
Hi Brad your video is very helpful. Working on installing the rear window regulators for my ‘39 Tudor. I’ve purchased new glass channels from Ecklers. How does the stud below track inside the window opening? In a trial fit it does not line up with the slot opening inside the car. Does the stud below the track supposed to act as a limiter and catch in the opening towards the rear of the regulator? Thanks!
Bruce, it's been so long ago since I did this video I'm not sure I can answer that but hopefully someone else who's tracking this post can assist.
So what I've learned here is to put the entire mechanism into the door and the glass is essentially last. I've been struggling for hours putting the window into the Bailey channel with no mechanism. I will remove the regulator rail from the bottom of the glass and start again.
Trying to find a kit for a 37 ford sedan .. th ey are missing entirely..someone made plexiglass windows that slide up and down and held up with coat hangers where they drilled through the bottom of each window and just shove them through
What I’m not getting… did you install the glass channel guide onto the regulator and then insert the glass as your last move.. to insert glass into glass channel? Or did you insert glass into channel and then install the two through the top and connect to regulator?
I didn't see any mention of the upper left glass channel (driver side would be to the rear of the car). This seems to be in the way when trying to remove glass. Any advice or comment?
I'm wrestling with a 35 Ford fordor glass install and your video confirmed my thoughts. I am sure the next car will be a lot easier but this bad boy has been kicking my &%^$.. Thanks for the flick, it has helped. R.J. in east TX.
Don't take the winding handle apart, there's a coil spring in there for friction that is murder to get back in.
Brad, I have a 37 5 window coupe. This video helped a lot because I bought my car disassembled and discovered my regulators were incorrect. The roller bearing that engages the slot n the regulator I have been trying to purchase but everyone seems to be out or has discontinued the item. Any way you could provide any dimensions for me? Stud length and bearing diameter? Thanks for the video!
Hi Brad, would you happen to have a part number for the molding that you are using to hold the glass into the window retainer.
I called out to Bob Drake and they had no idea what it is and wanted me to window tape. Thanks
I used glass setting tape that I purchased from Bob Drake, I just looked it up online and it's part number B-37193-C. They have different thicknesses for your application, so make sure you get the right one. If this isn't what you're talking about, let me know.
I have a ‘39 ford deluxe that I’m fighting, i have the regulator and window in and I had no issue doing so, what I’m have an issue with is the glass slides side to side and the window will not roll up and down smoothly, I usually cut my own flat glass but the customer brought me all the windows so I’m afraid whoever did so cut the window too short
EZ Door to work on.
Please do the same for a 47 Dodge pickup.
Totally different than a 1938/1939 Ford truck door, but nice explanation for an earlier truck.
What you showed and explained was a U shaped molding with a lip on one side that went towards the outside of the door. per your video it wasn't tape.
Thanks, Brad, I'm doing a vent window delete on my 39 Chrysler, if anyone has any help they can send my way.
how did you remove door handle to pull door panel?
Push back spring loaded escutcheon and tap pin out with a pointed tool of slightly smaller diameter. In my case, I modified a cheapo screwdriver to have a point.
@@38standard sweet! yep just tried that and pin popped out! Now to get pin back in when I put it back together Lol!
Have a 1934 ford coupe the window is stuck closed
Thanks Brad S, Iám having trouble with my 1939 Mercury 8 windows, Bob drake, Dennis Carpenter, and more tell me there is no window felt kits made for them !! (4 door sedan)so this may mean fitting some other track, and or hot rod electric set up? not great with positive ground, have to change all electics to 12v neg ground I guess, this video will guide me some on what to make if I can thankyou. Anyone out there fitted out 39' mercury door widows? need a little help..please..
Who is Bob Gray? Where did you get your parts?
Bob Drake reproduction is where I get most of my parts.
Very good job explaining the window replacement but this is a 1938 car, not a truck and truck doors are different. It appears your truck started as a 1938 Standard coupe or 4 door sedan by looking at the front fenders, hood and grill. The trucks had no removable garnish and only had a small inspection hole to work through. The car door is mach easier to work on.
Good catch, i did build this pickup by using the front half of a 4 door sedan because I love the 38 standard grill. So, yes the doors are a passenger car not a pickup.