My washing machine has multiple beeps of the same sound (not rising beeps) when I turn on the power supply at the wall. It won't power on when pressing the power button. Can I get some guidance please :)
Thank you for the diagnostics guide. In my case my GWL15 is giving a 160 (bowl engaged while in wash) error. Indeed, the last cycle was unusual with continuous running of cold water without going in wash. What should I do?
For the fault 130 you probably need to take the clutch spline out and check nothing jamming it, but I'd say look at the filling thing first, sounds unusual, would say need to check that water isn't draining or siphoning out the drain during the wash, which could cause the water level to drop and bowl to reengage.
Beep In all seriousness it will loose stored power after about a minute of being unplugged, and shouldn't give single beeps. Are you sure its not a smoke alarm in the same room with a flat battery?
Hi, thanks for the informative videos. My machine is not agitating properly and the high level light is flashing with the ascending beeping. It also happens while the machine is empty, no washing just water. What would this mean?
Sounds like the machine thinks it is overloaded, since it is happening with no washing something is causing excess drag on agitate. Two possibilities off the top of my head: Limescale or soap scum buildup in between the inner drum and shaft meaning the drum is being dragged around when it is trying to agitate instead of just floating, have a look at my cleaning video on how to take the drum out and then check shaft for buildup. Or possibly bearings starting to seize, is it really noisy/rumbly when it is spinning?
Hi, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I moved to an older apartment and there’s not a hot water pipe, I used cap to block the hot water and always select cold water wash, but after a few minutes the hot water light will still start beeping and I can’t use my machine normally, is there any way I can fix it? 🙏
Find the user manual and look up "optional adjustment". You can change what temp it will look for on each setting, and you can set "controlled cold" to add a bit of warm even on cold. Change that to cold only "Tap cold"
@@motrepairs hey Maltueka, I’ve tried this today, after I go into the adjustment mode, I still can’t adjust the water temperature, it just stays at “warm”, do you know what should I know? I’ve tried y to be under spin mode first too but no luck
Hi I have this same machine and the control panel keeps flashing and beeping then turns off. I pulled plug out overnight and turned on this morning with the 1st 3 and last 3 lights are on and nothing else, please help
That will probably be a fault code as apposed to just a User Warning, have a look at this video about how to work out the fault number from the lights. th-cam.com/video/YbpLNMK2w08/w-d-xo.html If it is only turning on some lights and not beeping it may be that the display or motor controller is not turning on/ booting up properly.
We recently had a power outage heron north Canterbury, the machine was half way through a cycle. When the power came back on the machine was totally dead. I’m assuming that when the power came back it surged and has blown the controller. Does that make sense?
Unfortunately you are probably correct, although usually a surge will damage other electronics in the house. Sometimes if it is a surge the power companies insurance will cover it, but they may need the controller checked to see if it is obvious that it was a surge that killed it, might pay to give them a call to see if anyone else has reported issues.
When the lid is closed, it gives error message “lid locked” this occurs at the end of the washing cycle....so what is the cause of this please? During the the washing cycle ...it fine no error message. It keeps happening a few time now. Thanks
It only locks the lid during the rinse or spin, not during the wash. Its pretty rare to have problems with the lid lock, and it will be difficult to diagnose if it is intermittent so you are probably going to need to get a technician out to figure out if it is the lid lock or the controller.
@@motrepairs Thank you for replying. The time waiting for the technician to come and the cost of repair are not worth it so I went and bought a new one two days ago.😊
Yeah the black ones have a bad habit of the bolt not locking into the rotor. You can spray some penetrating oil in onto the shaft spline but its also the magnetic coupling you have to overcome. If you lie it down, get someone to hold the inner bowl and wriggle/pull on the rotor you can usually slowly work it off. Then put a new rotor bolt on it, and best to replace with the RPS with a sealed harness so you don't have to take it off again.
Hi, I have a mw512 machine, what has happened was the machine was out of balance during the spin cycle, when I got to the machine all the LED light were off. I repositioned the washing load and tried to start the machine again so that it could continue spinning. With no LED lights on I turned off the machine and turned it back on, all I am getting is a few beeps from the main controller and still no LED light, I tried switching it on and off a few times and still no joy. I then went and bought a new main controller and installed it. The same is happening just a few beeps and nothing else, I unplugged all connections to the board and only left the power and the display connected and turned it on and still just a few beeps and nothing else, do you have any suggestions? Kind Regards.
If there are no lights at all and you have tried a new motor controller it would have to be display board, but it is quite rare for them to have problems. Or possibly display wiring harness but I would think that would more likely be intermittent. Because displays so seldom fail it should be easier to get a second hand one to test. There are two different designs that mount differently but you may be able to get on e already in the housing.
My machine isn't unlocking at the end of the spin, it will unlock when wall power is turned off but as soon as you turn power on and close lid it locked again. Is there an easy fix for this? Help please.
Haven't heard of that before, but sounds like controller is faulty. Before replacing controller checked the lid lock resistance is correct (about 65ohms) and also visibly check the harness to the lock hasn't got pinched or worn between the top deck and metal wrap which will cause it to short.
Hey thanks for all the info. I have a MW613 and the 2nd,3rd,4th lights are lit up solid green and it beeps every second. Machine will fill for wash sequence but then stops. Any ideas?
Are you counting from the left or right? If you follow the steps in this video what fault code number do you come up with? th-cam.com/video/YbpLNMK2w08/w-d-xo.html
Hi. I have the same machine. Does yours spray water when it rinse? I bought mine second hand and when on rinse mode it does not slray water, but it continues until the end and gives no errors
@@trainhardsweat1571 This video is about user warnings, see this video about fault codes th-cam.com/video/YbpLNMK2w08/w-d-xo.html you need to note which sound it is making. If it is the user warning sound then it isn't the wash lights you need to check but the other light I talk about in this user warning video. If it is the Error Fault beeps then those three lights would be fault 7, Display board fault, which is very rare. Would be best to check them memory like I show you in the linked video as sometimes it doesn't show the correct lights unless you are in diagnostic mode reading the errors.
I have the same Washing machine but the tub is filling up with Hot water even if the cycle is complete or power is off. What could be the reason and any way to fix that.
If it is just dripping then it is usually a faulty valve, there are two types of valve on this model, a Blue double one and an white one, and on GW models they are specific hot and cold valves but on MW models they are both the same.
Hello! Would you know what I should do regarding error code 56 on GWL11 ecoSmart washer? Never had any issues in 17 years and I love my machine. I would really appreciate your feedback. Thank you!
I have a top loader fisher&paykel. Bought it secons hand. It works till the end, but I notice when on rinse it does not spray water. Is this normal for this machine? I never had a machine thay does not spray water during rinse.
They usually will do a spray rinse then a deep rinse, however it only sprays water for 5-10 seconds at a time and only 2-3 times during the spray rinse.
Ok thanks I will check again. Perhaps I missed it. I did open the lid and checed for a while and closed the lid and listen. But I will check again. Thanks for the reply
@@motrepairs you can change the rinse programming from spray and deep or just deep rinse which will spin before rinse without spraying or 2 deep rinses.
Hi - thanks so much for sharing your wisdom. could you please help with a Gw612 econsmart like yours. I get 137 code - and water not draining. There is a burning smell when emptying. I removed the drain pump and tried cleaning it - nothing really in there and continued to have the problem. I also bought a new pump - however, this does not work either. Still have the same issue. The spin cycle does not begin in the wash part of the cycle. It drains water only and then fills it with new water without spin drying and completes the cycle. when I turned it back on after the wash I get the first 3 lights on the wash cycle and the 3 water level lights on and the spin light on at hold and the board is frozen on that position. Had to turn off at power point to get it to work again. Can you please help diagnose this issue. ? I have a new pump to replace and have replaced the rotor sensor previously about a year ago. I can email you the lights if you need them
The burning smell when draining and fault 37 sounds like a drain pump failed, but the funny light when turning on sounds like a faulty controller as well. You might want to check you water valves resistance as that can cause issues at power on but otherwise its starting to sounds like a faulty controller. Is it doing the little power up sequence where it starts with all lights on the turns them off in a wave while playing a rising tune?
@@motrepairs thank you for your insights. Yes If I turn it off at the powerpoint and wait a couple of minutes the lights all turn on. I have noticed that the spin cycle at the end of the wash cycle doesnt start and that is where the issues begin. I have replaced the position sensor and that sometimes caused intermittent issues in the past that required me to remove it and reposition it for the machine to work. I hope this helps isolate the issue. If I replace the pump is there a reset sequence required for the controller?
It sounds like you need a technician who is experienced with Fisher Paykel, It would be quite tricky/time consuming to walk you through a repair via email since it sounds like it isn't a simple problem sorry.
Hi my machine same as your doing but it have a sounds..sounds like an error. what will i do..or can you please fix for me ..i dont know how much the cost of it
I dont know what happened ...i heard the sounds as you said like when you first turn it on , then i heard it again and i went to look and all the lights were on but flickering and i could smell a strange smell kind of electrical maybe. The smoke could have been from the water finally gotten hot . It hadnt even filled up yet
Checked that your drain pump isn't burning out, have a look at my other videos about not draining. And best not to carry on using it. Best case you may blow the controller if you keep trying, worse case I have seen one set a wooden floor on fire....
Some of the latest machines need a special tool to remove it via a disposable insert, but not that model. If the bolt has come off without bringing the rotor with it the only option is brute force, it sometimes helps to lie ti down and have someone else hold the inner bowl from the top so you can pull it off.
Hello, I have a GWL15 and the Hot water light flashes Red after one cycle along with Beeps and keeps doing so on each wash cycle until I stop the washer and unplug it from the wall outlet. So, I purchased another Hot and Cold water fill valve thinking the coils were bad after 10 years of operation. After replacing the water fill valves with the same part number I once again keep getting the same result of a a flashing Red Light on the "Hot Water". Thus, the replacement part did not help! Also, this washing machine takes very long to complete a wash cycle, and advance to the next yellow cycle light. To me all these cycles take extremely too long, and I feel it's a lot of water being wasted. Sometimes to get the washer to move along the cycles I have to push advance cycle button or be there waiting a long time for it to move itself. Since the washer is over 10 years old, perhaps its time for a new washer, and it don't think it will be another Fisher Paykel model.
Are you filling on cold or on warm etc? Is your hot tap turned on? If you are setting cold and it is still flashing hot light then see if you can download the user manual and have a look at section on checking cold temp is set to tap cold and not controlled cold. Other thing would be to check is that the end of the drain hose is not too low and causing siphoning.
@@motrepairs Thank you for your prompt reply! So I was washing some bath towels, and had the temp lights set on hot & warm, and yes my hot tap is turned on properly. My drain hose hasn't been moved in years, and the machine always worked properly until recently? Today, I tried cleaning the contacts on the control panel board, and then re-attaching all the wire harnesses. Then I did a very small load of PJ's on the "Delicate" setting, and when it got to the rinse cycle after many water fillings and emptying water drainages the machine started its wonderful beeping tones again? This time it looks like an error code 51? I don't understand why this code comes up when the machine properly drains water out of the tub quite forcefully. If the diverter valve is clogged which I find it rather hard to believe then I'll have to turn the machine on its side to check for obstructions in the the diverter valve which I don't think is the case. I'm about ready to give up on this washing machine!
@@jamesb6216 Ah that makes a lot more sense. It isn't meant to drain water out and refill during the wash, but it uses the drain pump for recycling water. You will have some fluff in the diverter valve jamming it, so some water is going out the drain at the same time it is recirculating. taking it much longer to fill. Make sure to unplug the machine from the wall before removing the diverter valve. If you remove all hoses and take the valve off you should be able to clear the fluff from the drain outlet quite easily.
@@motrepairs OK, Thanks again for your reply! I'll turn the machine on its side in the coming days, and check-out the diverter valve for any obstructions i.e. fluff/lint, or coins as I've read can get lodged inside the valve. And yes, I alway unplug the machine when working on it because its safety first as I don't like getting zapped because I have my own built-in zapper (defibrillator) implanted in my chest after having a couple of open heart operations. I'll keep you posted!
Hello Dan, Well I took the Diverter Valve off the machine and checked for fluff/lint in the valve and it was Clean. The only place I found a little lint was in the three hoses connected to the valve but it was minor. I put everything back together and ran a load of bath towels. The Hot Red light flashed on once again which was no surprise to me. Also, it still takes an extremely long time for the machine to move from one cycle to another cycle so much so that I had to advance it myself. When it finally got to the rinse cycle I got a fatal error, so I pushed and held the Power Button and Wash Temp Down arrow buttons. It is still showing a Code 51, and the servicing paperwork guide states it could also be a possible Motor Control Module is Bad? I found a refurbished board on eBay selling for $145 US. So Im not sure if I want to put another $145 into a 12 year old washing machine, and will start shopping for a new model. Just in case, do you know the part number for this Motor Control Board because the one I saw on eBay is:164368391978 Thanks for ALL your Help! BTW: I visited your country about 15 years ago by cruise ship, and was quite impressed, and if I were younger I'd think about re-locating there especially liked Christchurch.
Hey there, thank you for video. My water level light is flashing. I have cleaned the inside of the machine but still same problem. When I put only a small load of clothes in the machine and push auto water level it keeps filling to high and then the agitator doesn’t seem to move very much. I am about to rewatch your video when the machine is empty. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I have a GW612 with this control plate and a BA serial number. Is that 2004 or 2014. Others with a DH serial (2010?) are MW612's and have a different control plate. Is one better than the other?
FP actually made the SD12 for a very long time, and models became a bit messy. Continued selling MW512 and then the MW513 after they changed there model number format (e.g. WA80T65GW1)
Hi, thanks for all the great information, my washing machine broke down so bought a new one and put the old one in the garage, I found your channel which is fantastic, I thought I would have a crack at fixing it, I was testing the the machine outside, ran it with cold water it ran great, then I connected cold to the hot valve, can you not use cold water to test the hot water valve, I'm using the outside tap, alot of work to get the machine back inside. Thought I'd mention with the cold connected to the hot it got through to the rinse cycle but no water would come out then would make the first sound you described in this video, thanks
Some models actively check water temp, so if you have cold connected to hot it will stop filling. All of them only do a cold rinse, so you need to have water connected to the cold valve for the rinse even if you are doing a hot cycle.
They have no drum clean program, but it is recommended to run a hot wash through every few months. The way the drum is designed it is meant to not need a lint filter, but it is an optional extra that sits down the centre of the agitator, part number 426451P
@@motrepairs Thanks. I have a big Maytag in the shed and it does not have a filter either, but if a tissue is left in it it makes a mess and does not seem to be able to clear lint out, but I have not seen this with the Fisher & Paykel.
Haha - good stuff. :) Gregg, from Perth Western Australia, here! I have the 5.5 Kg MW513 QuickSmart - and it sometimes, so intermittently, stops as it gets to the orange 'RINSE button. Saw your explanation and not sure what the 'code' means - but wondering what action I, as average-joe, can to test out things! So sometimes we can do 6 washes in a day and t doesnb;t lay up - and then another time it'll stop at that first orange rinse light. Could you please give me some idea of what that problem might be, and what muggins here can do to try to alleviate the problem. This is our third FP over quite a number of years, and usually if we get a problem we don;t understand, we buy a new one. But after watching your videos, I realise there might be things I CAN do. I already save the motor control units, and have still got my previous machine, that wouldn't spin. I was gonna swap a previous control unit into this current machine, but it was brown, and larger, than this new smaller white unit! Haha! So now I've come knocking at your video door! :) Thank you, Gregg
Those controllers aren't backwards compatible unfortunately. When it stops at the rinse it should be either playing a rising tune like in this video, or a constant beeping. If rising tune look at what setting lights are flashing and then watch this video again. If constant beeping look at cycle progress lights and check this video: th-cam.com/video/YbpLNMK2w08/w-d-xo.html
I also service Fisher & Paykel Smart Drive washing machines but as a hobby in my spare time. Just asking out of curiosity does this machine have an SD11 420092 board or the newer SD12 42690 board?
Its probably a 420690 (which supersedes the 420092, 420706, 720376, basically all non-eco sd11 and 12) That particular machine is just one I loan to people if their machine is out of action for a bit.
Hi, Good video. Do some models not have an out of balance lever and switch ? I thought my machines lever had snapped off but after inspecting, it had no switch, lever or even the cut out where the lever is mounted. Cheers
The earlier models from 1990's through to the Smart Drive 11 have a lever. From the SD12 onwards it is detected by software monitoring the motor current. The switches could get corroded, lever damaged, or if the floor wasn't level the bowl could trigger it too early, so the newer models are much better.
You said both water hot and cold flashing means it can't get water. I got both hot and cold water flashing, but there is water going through. It just stops after a while after I pressed start.
@@wonghow If it's not siphoning then next step would be to check the water valve resistance straight after it stops and beeps, they can fail open circuit only when hot. Then check water level pressure system tube doesn't have a hole or something.
That is usually caused by it going out of balance too easily, does it come up with the out of balbnce code if you leave it long enough? If so it could be if the holes in the inner bowl are clogged with soap scum, but most often it is because the suspension is worn out.
Hi, Very good video! I have a MW512. When the machine goes to the Rinse cycle (after Wash) the machine stops with the warning beeps as you describe. At this stage the Rinse light is flashing and the Lid Locked light is flashing. When I press 'start/pause' the machine starts again (no other action required), the Rinse cycle commences to fill, agitate, then drain as normal...and the rest of the cycles (ie. Spin) continues through til the end without any additional help from me. Have you come across this before?.
That would indicate it can't lock the lid, thinks the lid is open. Lid locks very seldom fail, add to that the fact that just pressing start will let it continue suggests controller. Not a common problem.
Thanks for the video. What does it mean when the No1 is flashing red with a continuous beeping sound, the next 3 are green and the rest are off? Is it something we can fix ourselves or is it completely useless? Cheers
Hi there, thank you for sharing your knowledge. It looks like we have the same machine you've used in this video a GW712 so I'm hoping you'll be able to guide me in the right direction. Literally all the lights are lit up on the board, so I tried to put our machine into diagnostic mode however our machine won't switch off via the power button. I've switched the power off and unplugged the machine, left it for approx. 1 minute then plugged it back in again a few times but still the power button won't switch off the machine. I'm hoping we don't have to get a new machine as it's served us well for well over 10 years, any feedback you're able to give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Ce
If all the lights are coming on including all water level and temperature eta then if sounds like the controller is getting stuck in the startup boot sequence, which would mean a faulty controller.
Have a look at my other videos in the Smart Drive playlist, I suggest the one on checking fault codes first, then have a couple about cleaning a blocked pump if thats the fault.
That's not a valid fault code for your model, but is a display error (very unusual) on earlier models. Sometimes the lights it shows to you are not the correct lights and you need to go into diagnostics to get the right one. I've got a video half done about that Ill try and get it uploaded tonight or tomorrow.
None of them/ What is turned on is the 3rd 4th and last spin red light on the top wash progress/ No other lights saying its high water or lid lock etc. So whats that code sir???
I have a new sensor, which I didn’t use after I discovered it need a new motor and I bought new wash machine any one interested I will sell it with half price with the receipt
I have a new sensor, which I didn’t use after I discovered it need a new motor and I bought new wash machine any one interested I will sell it with half price with the receipt
Excellent video and extremely helpful for me. Thanks so much.
My washing machine has multiple beeps of the same sound (not rising beeps) when I turn on the power supply at the wall. It won't power on when pressing the power button. Can I get some guidance please :)
Thank you for the diagnostics guide. In my case my GWL15 is giving a 160 (bowl engaged while in wash) error. Indeed, the last cycle was unusual with continuous running of cold water without going in wash. What should I do?
For the fault 130 you probably need to take the clutch spline out and check nothing jamming it, but I'd say look at the filling thing first, sounds unusual, would say need to check that water isn't draining or siphoning out the drain during the wash, which could cause the water level to drop and bowl to reengage.
My fisher an Fisher Paykel 8 kg just keeps one single beeping even with no power attached ??
Beep
In all seriousness it will loose stored power after about a minute of being unplugged, and shouldn't give single beeps. Are you sure its not a smoke alarm in the same room with a flat battery?
How do I get into diagnosis mode for the WA8650E1 pls...cheers
It keeps washing ok just won’t stop beeping ??
Hi, thanks for the informative videos. My machine is not agitating properly and the high level light is flashing with the ascending beeping. It also happens while the machine is empty, no washing just water. What would this mean?
Sounds like the machine thinks it is overloaded, since it is happening with no washing something is causing excess drag on agitate. Two possibilities off the top of my head: Limescale or soap scum buildup in between the inner drum and shaft meaning the drum is being dragged around when it is trying to agitate instead of just floating, have a look at my cleaning video on how to take the drum out and then check shaft for buildup. Or possibly bearings starting to seize, is it really noisy/rumbly when it is spinning?
I can’t find your video about the constant beeping 😢
Here th-cam.com/video/YbpLNMK2w08/w-d-xo.html
It also links it right in the description.
Hi, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I moved to an older apartment and there’s not a hot water pipe, I used cap to block the hot water and always select cold water wash, but after a few minutes the hot water light will still start beeping and I can’t use my machine normally, is there any way I can fix it? 🙏
Find the user manual and look up "optional adjustment". You can change what temp it will look for on each setting, and you can set "controlled cold" to add a bit of warm even on cold. Change that to cold only "Tap cold"
@@motrepairs thank you so much!!
@@motrepairs hey Maltueka, I’ve tried this today, after I go into the adjustment mode, I still can’t adjust the water temperature, it just stays at “warm”, do you know what should I know? I’ve tried y to be under spin mode first too but no luck
@@muyinglee1897 What is the model number?
@@motrepairs N64 or series 3 I think? It looks like to be an old model
Hi I have this same machine and the control panel keeps flashing and beeping then turns off. I pulled plug out overnight and turned on this morning with the 1st 3 and last 3 lights are on and nothing else, please help
That will probably be a fault code as apposed to just a User Warning, have a look at this video about how to work out the fault number from the lights. th-cam.com/video/YbpLNMK2w08/w-d-xo.html
If it is only turning on some lights and not beeping it may be that the display or motor controller is not turning on/ booting up properly.
We recently had a power outage heron north Canterbury, the machine was half way through a cycle. When the power came back on the machine was totally dead. I’m assuming that when the power came back it surged and has blown the controller. Does that make sense?
Unfortunately you are probably correct, although usually a surge will damage other electronics in the house. Sometimes if it is a surge the power companies insurance will cover it, but they may need the controller checked to see if it is obvious that it was a surge that killed it, might pay to give them a call to see if anyone else has reported issues.
Many thanks, @@motrepairs
When the lid is closed, it gives error message “lid locked” this occurs at the end of the washing cycle....so what is the cause of this please? During the the washing cycle ...it fine no error message. It keeps happening a few time now. Thanks
It only locks the lid during the rinse or spin, not during the wash. Its pretty rare to have problems with the lid lock, and it will be difficult to diagnose if it is intermittent so you are probably going to need to get a technician out to figure out if it is the lid lock or the controller.
@@motrepairs
Thank you for replying. The time waiting for the technician to come and the cost of repair are not worth it so I went and bought a new one two days ago.😊
How do I get the rotor thing off the bottom? Need to get sensor out. Mine is black. Nylon bolt is removed but it won’t budge.
Yeah the black ones have a bad habit of the bolt not locking into the rotor. You can spray some penetrating oil in onto the shaft spline but its also the magnetic coupling you have to overcome.
If you lie it down, get someone to hold the inner bowl and wriggle/pull on the rotor you can usually slowly work it off. Then put a new rotor bolt on it, and best to replace with the RPS with a sealed harness so you don't have to take it off again.
Hi, I have a mw512 machine, what has happened was the machine was out of balance during the spin cycle, when I got to the machine all the LED light were off. I repositioned the washing load and tried to start the machine again so that it could continue spinning. With no LED lights on I turned off the machine and turned it back on, all I am getting is a few beeps from the main controller and still no LED light, I tried switching it on and off a few times and still no joy. I then went and bought a new main controller and installed it. The same is happening just a few beeps and nothing else, I unplugged all connections to the board and only left the power and the display connected and turned it on and still just a few beeps and nothing else, do you have any suggestions? Kind Regards.
If there are no lights at all and you have tried a new motor controller it would have to be display board, but it is quite rare for them to have problems. Or possibly display wiring harness but I would think that would more likely be intermittent.
Because displays so seldom fail it should be easier to get a second hand one to test. There are two different designs that mount differently but you may be able to get on e already in the housing.
My machine isn't unlocking at the end of the spin, it will unlock when wall power is turned off but as soon as you turn power on and close lid it locked again. Is there an easy fix for this? Help please.
Haven't heard of that before, but sounds like controller is faulty. Before replacing controller checked the lid lock resistance is correct (about 65ohms) and also visibly check the harness to the lock hasn't got pinched or worn between the top deck and metal wrap which will cause it to short.
Hey thanks for all the info. I have a MW613 and the 2nd,3rd,4th lights are lit up solid green and it beeps every second. Machine will fill for wash sequence but then stops. Any ideas?
Are you counting from the left or right? If you follow the steps in this video what fault code number do you come up with?
th-cam.com/video/YbpLNMK2w08/w-d-xo.html
Hi. I have the same machine. Does yours spray water when it rinse? I bought mine second hand and when on rinse mode it does not slray water, but it continues until the end and gives no errors
What’s the wash rinse spin fault
Not enough info
@ my washing machine come up with just the wash , rinse, and spin fault. I’ve changed the pc board over and it still comes up with that fault..!
@@trainhardsweat1571 This video is about user warnings, see this video about fault codes th-cam.com/video/YbpLNMK2w08/w-d-xo.html you need to note which sound it is making.
If it is the user warning sound then it isn't the wash lights you need to check but the other light I talk about in this user warning video.
If it is the Error Fault beeps then those three lights would be fault 7, Display board fault, which is very rare. Would be best to check them memory like I show you in the linked video as sometimes it doesn't show the correct lights unless you are in diagnostic mode reading the errors.
I have the same Washing machine but the tub is filling up with Hot water even if the cycle is complete or power is off. What could be the reason and any way to fix that.
If it is just dripping then it is usually a faulty valve, there are two types of valve on this model, a Blue double one and an white one, and on GW models they are specific hot and cold valves but on MW models they are both the same.
@@motrepairs Thank you. Do we need to replace the valves or the complete unit. Would you have part model#
@@kirandiddi4633 That depends on what exact model/product code you have,
Hello! Would you know what I should do regarding error code 56 on GWL11 ecoSmart washer? Never had any issues in 17 years and I love my machine. I would really appreciate your feedback. Thank you!
Bowl check error, possibly likely to be build up such as limescale jamming the spline in the middle
I have a top loader fisher&paykel. Bought it secons hand. It works till the end, but I notice when on rinse it does not spray water. Is this normal for this machine? I never had a machine thay does not spray water during rinse.
Mine is a different model. MW613
They usually will do a spray rinse then a deep rinse, however it only sprays water for 5-10 seconds at a time and only 2-3 times during the spray rinse.
Ok thanks I will check again. Perhaps I missed it. I did open the lid and checed for a while and closed the lid and listen. But I will check again. Thanks for the reply
@@motrepairs it also depends on water level so low levels will be 2 or 3, medium will be 4 and high will be 5.
@@motrepairs you can change the rinse programming from spray and deep or just deep rinse which will spin before rinse without spraying or 2 deep rinses.
Hi - thanks so much for sharing your wisdom. could you please help with a Gw612 econsmart like yours. I get 137 code - and water not draining. There is a burning smell when emptying. I removed the drain pump and tried cleaning it - nothing really in there and continued to have the problem. I also bought a new pump - however, this does not work either. Still have the same issue. The spin cycle does not begin in the wash part of the cycle. It drains water only and then fills it with new water without spin drying and completes the cycle. when I turned it back on after the wash I get the first 3 lights on the wash cycle and the 3 water level lights on and the spin light on at hold and the board is frozen on that position. Had to turn off at power point to get it to work again. Can you please help diagnose this issue. ? I have a new pump to replace and have replaced the rotor sensor previously about a year ago. I can email you the lights if you need them
The burning smell when draining and fault 37 sounds like a drain pump failed, but the funny light when turning on sounds like a faulty controller as well. You might want to check you water valves resistance as that can cause issues at power on but otherwise its starting to sounds like a faulty controller. Is it doing the little power up sequence where it starts with all lights on the turns them off in a wave while playing a rising tune?
@@motrepairs thank you for your insights. Yes If I turn it off at the powerpoint and wait a couple of minutes the lights all turn on. I have noticed that the spin cycle at the end of the wash cycle doesnt start and that is where the issues begin. I have replaced the position sensor and that sometimes caused intermittent issues in the past that required me to remove it and reposition it for the machine to work. I hope this helps isolate the issue. If I replace the pump is there a reset sequence required for the controller?
It sounds like you need a technician who is experienced with Fisher Paykel, It would be quite tricky/time consuming to walk you through a repair via email since it sounds like it isn't a simple problem sorry.
Hi my machine same as your doing but it have a sounds..sounds like an error. what will i do..or can you please fix for me ..i dont know how much the cost of it
Hi, if you google you should be able to find a repair company near you, I can help you if you are in Motueka/Tasman
I dont know what happened ...i heard the sounds as you said like when you first turn it on , then i heard it again and i went to look and all the lights were on but flickering and i could smell a strange smell kind of electrical maybe. The smoke could have been from the water finally gotten hot . It hadnt even filled up yet
Checked that your drain pump isn't burning out, have a look at my other videos about not draining. And best not to carry on using it. Best case you may blow the controller if you keep trying, worse case I have seen one set a wooden floor on fire....
Do you know how to remove the rotor on a 2018 WA7060G2?
Some of the latest machines need a special tool to remove it via a disposable insert, but not that model. If the bolt has come off without bringing the rotor with it the only option is brute force, it sometimes helps to lie ti down and have someone else hold the inner bowl from the top so you can pull it off.
Hello, I have a GWL15 and the Hot water light flashes Red after one cycle along with Beeps and keeps doing so on each wash cycle until I stop the washer and unplug it from the wall outlet. So, I purchased another Hot and Cold water fill valve thinking the coils were bad after 10 years of operation. After replacing the water fill valves with the same part number I once again keep getting the same result of a a flashing Red Light on the "Hot Water". Thus, the replacement part did not help! Also, this washing machine takes very long to complete a wash cycle, and advance to the next yellow cycle light. To me all these cycles take extremely too long, and I feel it's a lot of water being wasted. Sometimes to get the washer to move along the cycles I have to push advance cycle button or be there waiting a long time for it to move itself. Since the washer is over 10 years old, perhaps its time for a new washer, and it don't think it will be another Fisher Paykel model.
Are you filling on cold or on warm etc? Is your hot tap turned on? If you are setting cold and it is still flashing hot light then see if you can download the user manual and have a look at section on checking cold temp is set to tap cold and not controlled cold. Other thing would be to check is that the end of the drain hose is not too low and causing siphoning.
@@motrepairs Thank you for your prompt reply! So I was washing some bath towels, and had the temp lights set on hot & warm, and yes my hot tap is turned on properly. My drain hose hasn't been moved in years, and the machine always worked properly until recently? Today, I tried cleaning the contacts on the control panel board, and then re-attaching all the wire harnesses. Then I did a very small load of PJ's on the "Delicate" setting, and when it got to the rinse cycle after many water fillings and emptying water drainages the machine started its wonderful beeping tones again? This time it looks like an error code 51? I don't understand why this code comes up when the machine properly drains water out of the tub quite forcefully. If the diverter valve is clogged which I find it rather hard to believe then I'll have to turn the machine on its side to check for obstructions in the the diverter valve which I don't think is the case. I'm about ready to give up on this washing machine!
@@jamesb6216 Ah that makes a lot more sense. It isn't meant to drain water out and refill during the wash, but it uses the drain pump for recycling water. You will have some fluff in the diverter valve jamming it, so some water is going out the drain at the same time it is recirculating. taking it much longer to fill.
Make sure to unplug the machine from the wall before removing the diverter valve. If you remove all hoses and take the valve off you should be able to clear the fluff from the drain outlet quite easily.
@@motrepairs OK, Thanks again for your reply! I'll turn the machine on its side in the coming days, and check-out the diverter valve for any obstructions i.e. fluff/lint, or coins as I've read can get lodged inside the valve.
And yes, I alway unplug the machine when working on it because its safety first as I don't like getting zapped because I have my own built-in zapper (defibrillator) implanted in my chest after having a couple of open heart operations. I'll keep you posted!
Hello Dan, Well I took the Diverter Valve off the machine and checked for fluff/lint in the valve and it was Clean. The only place I found a little lint was in the three hoses connected to the valve but it was minor. I put everything back together and ran a load of bath towels. The Hot Red light flashed on once again which was no surprise to me. Also, it still takes an extremely long time for the machine to move from one cycle to another cycle so much so that I had to advance it myself. When it finally got to the rinse cycle I got a fatal error, so I pushed and held the Power Button and Wash Temp Down arrow buttons. It is still showing a Code 51, and the servicing paperwork guide states it could also be a possible Motor Control Module is Bad? I found a refurbished board on eBay selling for $145 US. So Im not sure if I want to put another $145 into a 12 year old washing machine, and will start shopping for a new model. Just in case, do you know the part number for this Motor Control Board because the one I saw on eBay is:164368391978 Thanks for ALL your Help! BTW: I visited your country about 15 years ago by cruise ship, and was quite impressed, and if I were younger I'd think about re-locating there especially liked Christchurch.
Hey there, thank you for video. My water level light is flashing. I have cleaned the inside of the machine but still same problem. When I put only a small load of clothes in the machine and push auto water level it keeps filling to high and then the agitator doesn’t seem to move very much. I am about to rewatch your video when the machine is empty. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
If the bearings are dragging it will do that, is it really noisy and loud when it spins and greasy stain coming from the motor?
I have a GW612 with this control plate and a BA serial number. Is that 2004 or 2014. Others with a DH serial (2010?) are MW612's and have a different control plate. Is one better than the other?
2004 for your GW612 mate.
FP actually made the SD12 for a very long time, and models became a bit messy. Continued selling MW512 and then the MW513 after they changed there model number format (e.g. WA80T65GW1)
Hi, thanks for all the great information, my washing machine broke down so bought a new one and put the old one in the garage, I found your channel which is fantastic, I thought I would have a crack at fixing it, I was testing the the machine outside, ran it with cold water it ran great, then I connected cold to the hot valve, can you not use cold water to test the hot water valve, I'm using the outside tap, alot of work to get the machine back inside. Thought I'd mention with the cold connected to the hot it got through to the rinse cycle but no water would come out then would make the first sound you described in this video, thanks
Some models actively check water temp, so if you have cold connected to hot it will stop filling. All of them only do a cold rinse, so you need to have water connected to the cold valve for the rinse even if you are doing a hot cycle.
Do these machines have a lint filter and do they have a clean drum program?
They have no drum clean program, but it is recommended to run a hot wash through every few months.
The way the drum is designed it is meant to not need a lint filter, but it is an optional extra that sits down the centre of the agitator, part number 426451P
@@motrepairs Thanks. I have a big Maytag in the shed and it does not have a filter either, but if a tissue is left in it it makes a mess and does not seem to be able to clear lint out, but I have not seen this with the Fisher & Paykel.
@@les318 Yes the maytags are not so great if there is lots of lint or a tissue
Haha - good stuff. :)
Gregg, from Perth Western Australia, here!
I have the 5.5 Kg MW513 QuickSmart - and it sometimes, so intermittently, stops as it gets to the orange 'RINSE button.
Saw your explanation and not sure what the 'code' means - but wondering what action I, as average-joe, can to test out things!
So sometimes we can do 6 washes in a day and t doesnb;t lay up - and then another time it'll stop at that first orange rinse light.
Could you please give me some idea of what that problem might be, and what muggins here can do to try to alleviate the problem.
This is our third FP over quite a number of years, and usually if we get a problem we don;t understand, we buy a new one.
But after watching your videos, I realise there might be things I CAN do.
I already save the motor control units, and have still got my previous machine, that wouldn't spin.
I was gonna swap a previous control unit into this current machine, but it was brown, and larger, than this new smaller white unit!
Haha! So now I've come knocking at your video door! :)
Thank you,
Gregg
Those controllers aren't backwards compatible unfortunately. When it stops at the rinse it should be either playing a rising tune like in this video, or a constant beeping. If rising tune look at what setting lights are flashing and then watch this video again. If constant beeping look at cycle progress lights and check this video: th-cam.com/video/YbpLNMK2w08/w-d-xo.html
@@motrepairs THANK YOU :)
I also service Fisher & Paykel Smart Drive washing machines but as a hobby in my spare time. Just asking out of curiosity does this machine have an SD11 420092 board or the newer SD12 42690 board?
Its probably a 420690 (which supersedes the 420092, 420706, 720376, basically all non-eco sd11 and 12) That particular machine is just one I loan to people if their machine is out of action for a bit.
Hi, Good video. Do some models not have an out of balance lever and switch ? I thought my machines lever had snapped off but after inspecting, it had no switch, lever or even the cut out where the lever is mounted. Cheers
The earlier models from 1990's through to the Smart Drive 11 have a lever. From the SD12 onwards it is detected by software monitoring the motor current.
The switches could get corroded, lever damaged, or if the floor wasn't level the bowl could trigger it too early, so the newer models are much better.
You said both water hot and cold flashing means it can't get water. I got both hot and cold water flashing, but there is water going through. It just stops after a while after I pressed start.
How low is the end of your drain hose? It it’s below the high water level water could be siphoning out as fast as it is filling up
@@motrepairs my drain hose always at the same level, never changed it. It is same height as washing machine
@@wonghow If it's not siphoning then next step would be to check the water valve resistance straight after it stops and beeps, they can fail open circuit only when hot. Then check water level pressure system tube doesn't have a hole or something.
My washing machine keeps repeating the rinse and spin cycle, will take for ages just repeating itself please help
That is usually caused by it going out of balance too easily, does it come up with the out of balbnce code if you leave it long enough? If so it could be if the holes in the inner bowl are clogged with soap scum, but most often it is because the suspension is worn out.
I can't get the broad to light up or nothing
You will need to check all the component resistances before replacing the dead board so you don't blow the new one.
Really helpful video. Thanks a lot.
Hi, Very good video! I have a MW512. When the machine goes to the Rinse cycle (after Wash) the machine stops with the warning beeps as you describe. At this stage the Rinse light is flashing and the Lid Locked light is flashing. When I press 'start/pause' the machine starts again (no other action required), the Rinse cycle commences to fill, agitate, then drain as normal...and the rest of the cycles (ie. Spin) continues through til the end without any additional help from me. Have you come across this before?.
That would indicate it can't lock the lid, thinks the lid is open. Lid locks very seldom fail, add to that the fact that just pressing start will let it continue suggests controller. Not a common problem.
Thanks for the video. What does it mean when the No1 is flashing red with a continuous beeping sound, the next 3 are green and the rest are off? Is it something we can fix ourselves or is it completely useless? Cheers
That is a fault code rather then a user warning, Have a look at this video here: th-cam.com/video/YbpLNMK2w08/w-d-xo.html
Hi there, thank you for sharing your knowledge. It looks like we have the same machine you've used in this video a GW712 so I'm hoping you'll be able to guide me in the right direction. Literally all the lights are lit up on the board, so I tried to put our machine into diagnostic mode however our machine won't switch off via the power button. I've switched the power off and unplugged the machine, left it for approx. 1 minute then plugged it back in again a few times but still the power button won't switch off the machine. I'm hoping we don't have to get a new machine as it's served us well for well over 10 years, any feedback you're able to give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Ce
If all the lights are coming on including all water level and temperature eta then if sounds like the controller is getting stuck in the startup boot sequence, which would mean a faulty controller.
@@motrepairs Thank you 🙏🏽
Hi, great video. We have 3 washing lights flashing and beeping. Any idea what this may be? Thanks :)
Have a look at this video here for fault codes rather then user warnings th-cam.com/video/YbpLNMK2w08/w-d-xo.html
Thank you sorted out my problem
My machine won't drain or spin can you help please
Have a look at my other videos in the Smart Drive playlist, I suggest the one on checking fault codes first, then have a couple about cleaning a blocked pump if thats the fault.
I have a WA80T65GW1 fisher and paykel top load wash smart with error code 00000111 = 7
Can you help?
Great videos thankyou
That's not a valid fault code for your model, but is a display error (very unusual) on earlier models. Sometimes the lights it shows to you are not the correct lights and you need to go into diagnostics to get the right one. I've got a video half done about that Ill try and get it uploaded tonight or tomorrow.
I can’t wait to see the fault code videos!
Thank you very much
Serial number dates manufactured November 2002 just like the mw511 you have in the workshop
continuosly bleeping with first agreen light on shot wash and third on long wash and red on spin
That will be a fault code rather then a user warning, see my video about deciphering those here: th-cam.com/video/YbpLNMK2w08/w-d-xo.html
None of them/ What is turned on is the 3rd 4th and last spin red light on the top wash progress/ No other lights saying its high water or lid lock etc. So whats that code sir???
For fault codes look at this video here th-cam.com/video/D5L75hVanF4/w-d-xo.html
I have a new sensor, which I didn’t use after I discovered it need a new motor and I bought new wash machine any one interested I will sell it with half price with the receipt
My fisher an Fisher Paykel 8 kg just keeps one single beeping even with no power attached ??
I have a new sensor, which I didn’t use after I discovered it need a new motor and I bought new wash machine any one interested I will sell it with half price with the receipt