Reasonable approach using the table saw. A crosscut sled could easily be made to cradle both rails at once while preventing blowout. With a bit of ingenuity, it could be setup to index to the proper spacing. Great videos
I always struggle with whether to make a jig or sled for something that would make things go faster and cleaner, but might only be used once or twice per year.
Good things happen when the piece is in a fixed place and the sled, on a track slides. I get tons of use out of my cross cut sled. You could even devise a kind of setup tool often referred to as a kerfmaker to make it easily repeatable. I’ve used the smaller one to cut dados for making boxes and cabinets. Same process.
@@waterfordrs22 I do have a cross cut sled that I use, just never adapted it for gunwales but worth thinking about next time I have to cut some. Also my videos are intended for the home builder with limited access to equipment and woodworking skills.
Many do glue them on. I prefer to leave the option to remove the gunwales years down the road as they are very susceptible to wear. I have had to remove glued on gunwales that had to be replaced. Many hours and lots of collateral damage to hull glass when doing so. I do seal the insides with two coats of epoxy to make sure they do not rot from the inside out.
Hello, great to see you back on a canoe after the long break! I am currently building a cedar strip canoe, you mentioned that you were using a slow hardener to avoid blushing. I will be fibre glassing my boat during our winter and I am unable to control the temperature in my shop. Average temperature is 40f (5c), I was intending to use West System 205 Fast Hardener. Would this be a mistake? Thanks Ian
205 is a fast hardener and will "blush". I only use the faster hardener to glue up pieces, but never wherever a clear finish is desired. I would really try to see how you can heat up the area just for the few days to make the glassing go well. People often build a tent out of plastic and put a few regular light bulbs in the area. They can give off quite a bit of heat. Best is at least 70 degrees for a clear finish.
What's the router bit that you use for the rounding of the scupper holes? You said "roundover bit" in the video, but it looks more like a flush trim bit?
You are correct. I checked and I did say round over bit for cutting the scuppers, but I should have said straight cutting bit set up in my router table with fence set to adequate depth. Thanks for noticing that. The round over bit is used later in the video.
@@OrcaboatsCa Excellent. I like that effect, and want to do the same for my scuppers, so I just wanted to make sure that I understood correctly. Many thanks!
Hi Rod, Thanks for all your content. I find your videos very well done and extremely useful. I’ve been a carpenter and Cabinrtmaker my whole career. I’ve wanted to build a canoe for decades and now that I’m retired, I have finally taken the plunge. I made a router jig to cut the scuppers. It’s fairly simple to make and yields great results with a spiral flush trim bit. I hope the links below will direct you to a couple photos. The key to no tear out is the sacrificial board clamped at the exiting location on the right. Hopefully the pictures are worth a thousand words. And I hope you find this easy set up useful. www.dropbox.com/s/wlx9n5h03sjo253/IMG_3430.jpg?dl=0 www.dropbox.com/s/b88i5axa22fhhd6/IMG_3431.jpg?dl=0
Nice set up. For me, I have a small shop and every boat is different. I really should use more jigs, but then I have to find a place to store them all.
Hi Rod, thanks for the reply. Believe me I know what you mean when you say every project is different and storage is an issue. This is not a jig I would keep intact if I were you either. It’s concept is far too simple to create when needed so long as there is some scrap material to use when it’s needed. I’ll try to explain the basic concept in case you or anyone else decides to give it a try. The type, thickness and width of material could vary from mine. It would be convenient if the base of the jig was thick enough for the bearing of the router bit to clear the bench top but even that could be overcome by extending the jig beyond the edge of the bench. The important thing is to create a stable surface that is secure to the bench and wide enough for the router to ride on comfortably. In your video you were looking for a 4 1/4” x 3/8” scupper. I would start with a single length of base material of at least 48” and cut 4 1/4” off one end. Then cut the rest in half. Strike a square pencil line across the 4 1/4” piece at about 2 1/2”. Then fasten that piece in between the other two pieces taking care to line the up on the square line. Next fasten the fence to the base at 3/8” from the edge of the 4 1/4” piece. Take care to keep it parallel to the rest of the base. The 3/8” offset will create a 3/8” deep scupper so long as the gunwale material is 3/4”. I placed a small block to the left of the cutout for router stability. I left 7/8” between it and the fence. By striking two lines on the fence at the cut location, I could easily line up my layout lines on the gunwale to them. So long as the sacrificial board is clamped flush to or slightly over the edge of the cutout, the router will not tear out on the exit of the cut. I took about four passes to get the full 3/8” depth. To avoid burning the corners I was careful not to complete the cut in the corners until last. By leaving a small amount of material in the corners then swiftly, but not aggressively, finish the corners without stopping for even a moment. That takes a bit of practice. A couple more pictures to show the simplicity of the set up. Sorry if I’m long winded. I just like to help. And you have helped me, so thanks again. www.dropbox.com/s/rus88ov1844mfu3/IMG_3434.jpg?dl=0 www.dropbox.com/s/l7ikf88hngarykf/IMG_3435.jpg?dl=0
![[FULL EP.16] เซียนพาลุย "เผือก-ฟรอยด์" กรี๊ดลั่น จนปูหนี | เฮ็ดอย่างเซียนหรั่ง | One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FsqUvwS3b-Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Reasonable approach using the table saw. A crosscut sled could easily be made to cradle both rails at once while preventing blowout. With a bit of ingenuity, it could be setup to index to the proper spacing.
Great videos
I always struggle with whether to make a jig or sled for something that would make things go faster and cleaner, but might only be used once or twice per year.
Good things happen when the piece is in a fixed place and the sled, on a track slides.
I get tons of use out of my cross cut sled. You could even devise a kind of setup tool often referred to as a kerfmaker to make it easily repeatable. I’ve used the smaller one to cut dados for making boxes and cabinets. Same process.
@@waterfordrs22 I do have a cross cut sled that I use, just never adapted it for gunwales but worth thinking about next time I have to cut some. Also my videos are intended for the home builder with limited access to equipment and woodworking skills.
verry nice cano looks profetional
Thank you very much for all your very informative videos. Could you let me know why you don't glue your gunwales? Thanks.
Many do glue them on. I prefer to leave the option to remove the gunwales years down the road as they are very susceptible to wear. I have had to remove glued on gunwales that had to be replaced. Many hours and lots of collateral damage to hull glass when doing so. I do seal the insides with two coats of epoxy to make sure they do not rot from the inside out.
@@OrcaboatsCa Thank you. That is what I suspected but just wanted to check with you. I think I will follow your advice and screw mine as well. Cheers.
Hello, great to see you back on a canoe after the long break! I am currently building a cedar strip canoe, you mentioned that you were using a slow hardener to avoid blushing. I will be fibre glassing my boat during our winter and I am unable to control the temperature in my shop. Average temperature is 40f (5c), I was intending to use West System 205 Fast Hardener. Would this be a mistake? Thanks Ian
205 is a fast hardener and will "blush". I only use the faster hardener to glue up pieces, but never wherever a clear finish is desired. I would really try to see how you can heat up the area just for the few days to make the glassing go well. People often build a tent out of plastic and put a few regular light bulbs in the area. They can give off quite a bit of heat. Best is at least 70 degrees for a clear finish.
Thanks for your advice. A tent looks like the way forward. Ian
What's the router bit that you use for the rounding of the scupper holes? You said "roundover bit" in the video, but it looks more like a flush trim bit?
You are correct. I checked and I did say round over bit for cutting the scuppers, but I should have said straight cutting bit set up in my router table with fence set to adequate depth. Thanks for noticing that. The round over bit is used later in the video.
@@OrcaboatsCa Excellent. I like that effect, and want to do the same for my scuppers, so I just wanted to make sure that I understood correctly. Many thanks!
на скорости х2нормально зашло.
Hi Rod,
Thanks for all your content. I find your videos very well done and extremely useful.
I’ve been a carpenter and Cabinrtmaker my whole career. I’ve wanted to build a canoe for decades and now that I’m retired, I have finally taken the plunge.
I made a router jig to cut the scuppers. It’s fairly simple to make and yields great results with a spiral flush trim bit.
I hope the links below will direct you to a couple photos. The key to no tear out is the sacrificial board clamped at the exiting location on the right.
Hopefully the pictures are worth a thousand words. And I hope you find this easy set up useful.
www.dropbox.com/s/wlx9n5h03sjo253/IMG_3430.jpg?dl=0
www.dropbox.com/s/b88i5axa22fhhd6/IMG_3431.jpg?dl=0
Sorry, I wanted this picture showing a completed scupper.
www.dropbox.com/s/b88i5axa22fhhd6/IMG_3431.jpg?dl=0
I’m a better cabinetmaker than a computer tech. 😂
Here’s the link to the finished scupper.
www.dropbox.com/s/a4r6btsmsh3od2q/IMG_3433.jpg?dl=0
Nice set up. For me, I have a small shop and every boat is different. I really should use more jigs, but then I have to find a place to store them all.
Hi Rod, thanks for the reply.
Believe me I know what you mean when you say every project is different and storage is an issue.
This is not a jig I would keep intact if I were you either. It’s concept is far too simple to create when needed so long as there is some scrap material to use when it’s needed.
I’ll try to explain the basic concept in case you or anyone else decides to give it a try.
The type, thickness and width of material could vary from mine. It would be convenient if the base of the jig was thick enough for the bearing of the router bit to clear the bench top but even that could be overcome by extending the jig beyond the edge of the bench. The important thing is to create a stable surface that is secure to the bench and wide enough for the router to ride on comfortably.
In your video you were looking for a 4 1/4” x 3/8” scupper. I would start with a single length of base material of at least 48” and cut 4 1/4” off one end. Then cut the rest in half.
Strike a square pencil line across the 4 1/4” piece at about 2 1/2”. Then fasten that piece in between the other two pieces taking care to line the up on the square line.
Next fasten the fence to the base at 3/8” from the edge of the 4 1/4” piece. Take care to keep it parallel to the rest of the base. The 3/8” offset will create a 3/8” deep scupper so long as the gunwale material is 3/4”.
I placed a small block to the left of the cutout for router stability. I left 7/8” between it and the fence.
By striking two lines on the fence at the cut location, I could easily line up my layout lines on the gunwale to them.
So long as the sacrificial board is clamped flush to or slightly over the edge of the cutout, the router will not tear out on the exit of the cut.
I took about four passes to get the full 3/8” depth. To avoid burning the corners I was careful not to complete the cut in the corners until last. By leaving a small amount of material in the corners then swiftly, but not aggressively, finish the corners without stopping for even a moment. That takes a bit of practice.
A couple more pictures to show the simplicity of the set up.
Sorry if I’m long winded. I just like to help. And you have helped me, so thanks again.
www.dropbox.com/s/rus88ov1844mfu3/IMG_3434.jpg?dl=0
www.dropbox.com/s/l7ikf88hngarykf/IMG_3435.jpg?dl=0