Buying a Used Brush Hog-What to Look For
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มี.ค. 2016
- If you've not been around equipment much, buying used pieces can be real intimidating. A machine can look really good on the outside and have major components completely worn out, conversely, there can be machines like this one, without much eye appeal, that are actually pretty good.
In this video I'm going to show you what to look for when purchasing a used brush hog or rotary cutter. We're going to look real closely at the gearbox to see if there's end play in the shaft which would indicate bearing failure. We'll need to take some blocks along (or jack stands if you prefer) to keep the machine up in the air while we look underneath.
We'll raise the cutter as high as we can, then prop it up so it can't fall on us. Then we're going to go underneath and try to wiggle the blade pan (or stump jumper if it has one) up and down. If it moves that means there's a bearing failure in the future and it could be a leaker. What usually happens when one of these machines gets worn, the shaft and bearing will get loose and start to leak. An old trick among those selling cutters who don't want you to see that problem is to fill the gearbox with corn head grease, which is so thick it generally stays in. Sometimes that prolongs the life of the cutter for a long time, sometime it lasts until you get it on the trailer and get it home. The bottom line is, if that assembly that the blades attach to wiggles up and down, walk away, you don't want it. As I was watching the video I noticed it actually looks like the blade pan is moving on this cutter, but instead, the blades are moving up and down, and they're supposed to. This cutter is good. We're also going to look at the oil in the gearbox and this machine passed.
Next thing to look at is the drive shaft and the U-joints in there. If there's a lot of "play" in them, they'll need replaced soon, and this cutter, again, was tight.
Last think I look at is the tailwheel bearings. The wheel on this cutter was tight, whoever owned this took pretty good care of it.
The only other thing to be concerned about is the cosmetic stuff. This cutter has had some welding done on it and whoever did it was a good welder and horrible painter. That will impact how much I offer for this brush hog but it won't affect the performance at all.
Bottom line on this machine is it's kinda ugly, but mechanically, it's in really good shape, and the perfect cutter for me to take back in the woods and not worry about destroying. I love a bargain!
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Just bought my first tractor now I need to buy the implements thanks for posting this since it is the first thing I need
Great videos Mike. Just bought my first tractor and your videos are a wealth of information. They have been very helpful thank you for putting these together
+deer rudy Glad to do it, thanks for watching!
Great vid as always. Thanks Mike
Good info on checking the gear box
Very informative. Thank you.
Nice video TM!
Thanks for the vid. Great info. One thing you didn't talk about was brands. I assume its important that you stick with major brands so you can get parts?
Dude thank you!
Old video, still applies. Thanks.
Thanks
When you take the cover off, and drain the oil is the drain plug easy to see? Thanks for the video Mike.
Look at and old Bush Hog SQ 480 had one 1/2" x 3" bolt for shear bolt could that damage tractor if you hit something
who builds hesston woods looks just like a old dixie cutter 72
Man that one is too good to put in the woods
What would be a good price for a mower like this? I'm currently looking for a used one for my Kubota B3350, mostly to cut grass. A guy just texted me pictures of two he owns and he wants $550 for each.
Thanks,Mike...I always learn a lot from your videos. This (and the previous video) will help me a lot because I'm looking for a used cutter for the same reasons that you mention. I'll pretty much use it to cut everything but rocks! LOL I figure if I can get the tractor and brush hog over the brush/small tree, it'll cut it. Right now I'm kinda using my lawn tractor as a brush hog. arrgghh
+Some Southern Stuff Glad to help...I've done the lawn mower/brush hog thing. They don't seem to last long that way :)!
+Some Southern Stuff OUCH! That has got to be really rough on the lawn tractor putting it thru brush hog duty. How many lawn tractors and blades do you go thru a year? :-O *shakes head*
+Ji Fi-01 (Jif) My last lawn tractor was an 18hp, 42in Yard Machine by MTD. It lasted 5 years with only one major repair. It didn't die...it was stolen! Currently have a 22hp, 48in Ariens that is three years old and has two major deck repairs and is currently in the shop for a major engine repair (automatic compression release). I really loved the Yard Machine. It was a great lawn tractor for me. BTW, I don't have a "lawn"...I have a "farm". LOL
+Some Southern Stuff There are people who make fun of those MTD Yard Machines but you're proof that you can beat one to a pulp and it still goes. My dad had one just like yours. When he passed away I sold it and wish I would have kept it. I have a ditch bank that my zero turn won't stay on and I could sure use it to mow that. Right now I'm using a non self-propelled push mower and I'm getting too old...
+Tractor Mike Watch out about the "I'm getting too old" stuff, Mike...remember it's ALL in the mind (mindset??)
Only problem with grinding on the blades is that they go out of balance. Then a vibration will migrate through the pto shaft and into the tractor. Best idea is to get new blades when ever possible. DEPENDING on model of mower, some blades are 65$ - 200$ or higher. New blades don't vibrate like old blades.
+Drew6709 Yeah, if you do that you try to grind the same amount off both sides. You'll sure know it if you're way off :).
My brother and I just sharpened our blades with his angle grinder. Couldn't get the blades off even with penetrating oil on the nuts, we broke two wrenches before giving up and deciding to sharpen the blades while they were still on the implement. DEFINITELY for safety, tractor must be turned off with brake set, put jack stands or concrete blocks under the cutter before working under it. I jammed an iron bar through the yoke of the PTO shaft to keep blade from spinning while he was grinding. He did one blade and I did the other, he counted his passes along the blade with the grinder, going from tip toward center and back again was one pass, 90 passes, then do the other blade with the same number of passes to try to keep them more or less in balance. Seems to have worked fine, no excessive vibration, and cutter is cutting well.
Mike - what about the blade sharpening or replacement. I couldn't see clearly the joint where the blade attaches so can you explain more about efforts and issues of either replacing or sharpening a blade? Do you have to flip it completely over to work on it, assuming you don't want to be completely under it?
+Ji Fi-01 (Jif) My experience on the farm growing up was to put jack stands under the machine and use an L-head grinder, but if you have a way of SAFELY picking up the machine, like an A-frame with a hoist, you can lift it up vertically and it makes the job a lot easier. Getting the blades off is a huge hassle. They're usually held on by big bolts and many times require a lot of effort (and air tools) to get them off. My brush hog has a hole in the top of the deck to access the bolt, but I'm going to be a weenie, if my blades need replacement I'm going to put the whole cutter on a trailer and cart it up to the dealership I used to work at and pay them to do it :).
+Tractor Mike Lawn mower blades are enough of a pain, thus worth removing for sharpening. I can only think of the hassle for the brush hog. Plan B, aka weenie approach, is definitely doable.
Be sure to tie down that tractor AND brush hog properly now when hauling! *teasing poke considering your previous tie-down series* ;-)
+Ji Fi-01 (Jif) Yeah, make sure you get everything properly boomed down. I'm sure everyone is getting a little tired of hearing about how to do that :). For some reason, in editing those I ended up having to watch them more than I normally watch my own stuff and I'm sick of them.
On that topic, I watched a guy a couple of weekends ago throw a strap over a weight carrier and one over the brush hog and drive happily down the road, he wasn't even close to compliant, and he's an old implement guy, been around equipment his entire life. Some times they're the worst at doing things the right way.
When I worked in the implement business I saw a guy leave our lot with straps on tires. I'm not even sure where they went, but they were new yellow straps and they were snaked over the top of the rear tires. I tried to get a picture because it was the worst job of securing a tractor I'd ever seen, but he got away before I could get it.
Hey Mike l enjoy your input on tractors l have a question I bought a used brush hog but it does not have any tags on it to say what type it is the color is blue and is a older implement any idea would be helpful thanks
Wes, sorry for the slow reply, could be a Ford if you're lucky, but if it was it was probably made for Ford by someone else. Those old cutters can be real hard to identify, especially if there's no serial number tag. If you need parts, take the old ones in and have your dealer match them up if he can.
You may have this answer and I'll find it in another video. How do you know what level the oil should be in the gear box? In one video you said don't overfill it. I figured more is better than less. I purchased a used machine so don't have the details sheet.
Most of the time you'll either have a check plug which you remove and then slowly pour the oil in until it just starts coming out, or a dipstick. The check plug is the most common. It'll usually be a little plug with a small square head on in. Unscrew that, then you'll need to remove the top fill plug, and slowly start pouring the oil in. If you're lucky you'll see it just as it gets to the fill plug level, if you're unlucky it'll be running out everywhere on the deck of the machine :). Actually, sometimes too much oil is really bad. It doesn't take much to lubricate the gear teeth, if there's too much in there the pressure could blow out a seal, so don't overfill.
I don't know about you guys but you have to buy used these new ones are just too expensive for me
Going to be looking for a cutter for my Ford 8n, what do you think would be the right size for this tractor? It's a '51 model, believe it has about 30 hp new. What would be a good price to pay for a used cutter? Mike, I enjoy your vids, I'm pretty new to the tractor thing, and I've learned a lot watching yours.
+fastvega Thanks for watching! You want to be a little wider than the back tires, probably a 5' cutter would be best, 6' would work. Here's a video I did (one of my first) about how big a brush hog to get, you might want to watch: th-cam.com/video/JFma-zNARmI/w-d-xo.html. Prices vary regionally, based on how heavy the cutter is, and how much it's been used. I'd say you can get something decent between $400 and $1000. $400 for a lighter cutter with quite a bit of use, up to $1000 for a heavier cutter in better shape. I haven't priced new ones lately, but I know they keep going up, it hasn't been too long ago you could have bought a new, fairly heavy one, one for $995.
+Tractor Mike Thanks. Much appreciated.
+fastvega I just noticed your name. What does your "Fast Vega" have in it? Are we talking Chevrolet Vega? I haven''t seen one of those in years.
+Tractor Mike It's a '72 Chevy Vega I've had for almost 24 yrs now. Runs about 600 hp, race it some, but street legal. There's a pic by my name of it. Getting pretty rare, mostly see only on drag strip anymore.
+fastvega I saw a tricked out Ford Maverick from that era the other day on the street. Brings back good memories.
Where’s the stump jumper I wouldn’t have it
I have one you can buy.
Is tat wat Americans call toppers