I am so happy to see you back! When TH-cam showed me a video of yours I thought it was one of your older ones. I then saw it was a new one, which was like Christmas morning. Thank you so much for taking the time to do these videos. I have learned a lot from them and I am delighted you are finishing the shinogi zukuri. I have got some of your W2 and have successfully forged welded 4 of them into a solid billet. Which I plan on making into a shinogi zukuri katana for myself. I am really looking forward to seeing how you polish the kissaki and achieve a clean yokote. I was wondering is there a way to judge how much pre-sori you need to achieve sori of a certain depth? I like my sori to be around 1". Again thank you and I can't wait to see the rest of this sword come to life!
Thank you for the kind words and for supporting me by buying steel. I'm unaware of any method for predicting sori. I always precurve my blades a little. I like mine more dramatically curved than is normally achievable by quenching alone, and I find that a little precurve helps hide an uneven sori from quenching.
Hope you're doing well in the new year Old Pueble Forge. I also hope that at some point you find time to finish this video series. I do have a question for you. How long can you wait between doing a water quench on your blade to doing its tempering? I ordered a sword heat treating kiln and it takes a while to go from 1500f to 400f and I would like to use it for both. I do know that the longer you wait after quenching the blade the more likely it is to develop a crack. So any insight you can share with me about this I would really appreciate it.
I don't really know how long you can wait. I've been told not to wait for the same reason you mentioned. Several times I have waited until the next day, tempering and then straightening out warping 12 hours later, and I've never had a problem. But I recognize that I don't know everything, and I may have just gotten lucky.
I'm working on a katana right now, a lot based off your build. Extremely glad that you have made these videos! One thing that is very difficult for me to find out is blade thicknesses. What is the thickness at the hilt at the spine and at the ridge and what does it taper down to? I made my from 8mm at the tang to 4mm at the tip, but compared to what I am seeing here that actually seems extremely thin. To be fair it is still quite pleasant to swing around. Any advice?
I think typical is 9mm at the machi (where the tang and blade meet) and 6mm at the kissaki (where the blade ends and the point geometry starts on a shinogi zukuri blade). But remember, this is AFTER polishing. So you must leave it thicker than that when forging and profiling so you don't whittle it down to a twig by the time you're done with it.
Glad to see you posting videos again. Cheers!
Thanks!
I have a set of katanas that I am making for some friends and I am right at this step. You awnseared a lot of questions for me!!
I'm so glad! The polishing of shinogi zukuris is also kinda tricky. Keep your eye out for those videos. They'll be coming out in a couple of weeks.
I am so happy to see you back! When TH-cam showed me a video of yours I thought it was one of your older ones. I then saw it was a new one, which was like Christmas morning. Thank you so much for taking the time to do these videos. I have learned a lot from them and I am delighted you are finishing the shinogi zukuri. I have got some of your W2 and have successfully forged welded 4 of them into a solid billet. Which I plan on making into a shinogi zukuri katana for myself. I am really looking forward to seeing how you polish the kissaki and achieve a clean yokote. I was wondering is there a way to judge how much pre-sori you need to achieve sori of a certain depth? I like my sori to be around 1". Again thank you and I can't wait to see the rest of this sword come to life!
Thank you for the kind words and for supporting me by buying steel. I'm unaware of any method for predicting sori. I always precurve my blades a little. I like mine more dramatically curved than is normally achievable by quenching alone, and I find that a little precurve helps hide an uneven sori from quenching.
Another great video, I always love to see your work.
Thank you!
best katana forging videos ever👍🏻
Thank you!
Awesome! Love the Sam Salvati hammer too.
Thank you! Yes, I love my Sammy hammer.
@@oldpuebloforge I enjoy mine as well.
He returns!
Can't wait The next...👏👏👏👏
well then. it's about time, don't you think? good to see you back :)
amazing video as usual my friend
Thank you!
Can't wait for the next video
Welcome Back in this World
Thank you. I plan on posting videos more often for the foreseeable future.
Hope you're doing well in the new year Old Pueble Forge. I also hope that at some point you find time to finish this video series. I do have a question for you. How long can you wait between doing a water quench on your blade to doing its tempering? I ordered a sword heat treating kiln and it takes a while to go from 1500f to 400f and I would like to use it for both. I do know that the longer you wait after quenching the blade the more likely it is to develop a crack. So any insight you can share with me about this I would really appreciate it.
I don't really know how long you can wait. I've been told not to wait for the same reason you mentioned. Several times I have waited until the next day, tempering and then straightening out warping 12 hours later, and I've never had a problem. But I recognize that I don't know everything, and I may have just gotten lucky.
Nice video, thanks🙏🏼
Thanks, Miguel.
I'm working on a katana right now, a lot based off your build. Extremely glad that you have made these videos! One thing that is very difficult for me to find out is blade thicknesses. What is the thickness at the hilt at the spine and at the ridge and what does it taper down to? I made my from 8mm at the tang to 4mm at the tip, but compared to what I am seeing here that actually seems extremely thin. To be fair it is still quite pleasant to swing around. Any advice?
I think typical is 9mm at the machi (where the tang and blade meet) and 6mm at the kissaki (where the blade ends and the point geometry starts on a shinogi zukuri blade). But remember, this is AFTER polishing. So you must leave it thicker than that when forging and profiling so you don't whittle it down to a twig by the time you're done with it.
That’s very helpful! Thank you very much!
What kind of steel are you using?
W2. It's my own stash I had custom made. Amazing steel for katanas. I sometimes also use W1 drill rod.
you running a pheer grinder?
KMG
Awesome
Thank you!
👏👏👏👏👏👏🤜🤛
Thanks!