ihave oil stone just like this but a really old 1 its my friends grandads he is 60 so ye pretty old 1 but can i hell get anything sharp i aint even used oil i just use a bit if olive oil and other stuff lol
Thank you. I was searching for sound advice on the proper technique to sharpen a knife using an oil stone and you nailed it. Very helpful. The leather explanation was helpful as well.
Thank you for the lesson I just bought a new stone, and I thought I had some idea of what to do. I figured I better check first and came across your video. Let's just say I was completely wrong in how to sharpen knives, so thank you again for the great video!
Hey I'm glad it helped! Hope you get the results you're looking for, but remember that freehand sharpening takes practice, so don't be upset if the first few times you try don't come out what you had hoped for. The key to freehand sharpening is consistency. Good luck!
I'm a sharpening noob and I wish I got a cheap stone like this from the start. I watched tutorials where they used various whetstones from 1000 grit to 30,000 grit that were very expensive. So for my first stones I bought a 1000/3000 and a 4000/8000 stone for $12 and $16. After following the tutorials my knives were just as blunt but the bevel was really smooth. Then I used a $5 oilstone that came with a bundle and after about a minute with the same technique my knives became so much sharper. Its definitely messier but I am only going to use cheap oilstones from now on. I would defo recommend them as long as people don't mind getting their hands covered in oily grit. The plus side is it softens your hands in the process
While I don't think you wasted your money, as whetstones are good to have, but anything abrasive and harder than the knife you are sharpening will put an edge on it, no matter how cheap. My current method of keeping a fresh edge on my basic knives is sandpaper stuck to a piece of wood in 220, 600 and 1200 grit with a leather strop charged with green compound. It was super cheap to make and has lasted me years! However if I've truly dulled the edges too much then I start with an oilstone again and then afterwards go through the different grits of sandpaper
@@Mikey4808 That's a relief to hear and thanks for the tips! :) Its probably all down to my inexperience since I first tried sharpening a couple of weeks ago so I'm learning what works through trial and error. Maybe I only achieved a smooth, polished knife instead of a sharp one with the whetstones because I didn't keep at it long enough. I've since heard that using the finer stones is a slower sharpening process
@@hamstermunchies5558 It takes some practice but give it another go. You initially need to get a burr using the coarse stone and then work through the finer grits to refine the edge, but the importance is getting that burr. The burr mustn't be too big though. Only sharpen on the coarse stone until you just begin to feel a burr on the edge, not more, otherwise it becomes more difficult to refine. A good way to check is running some toilet paper from the spine down perpendicular to the edge. If the toilet paper catches on the edge it means there is a burr. There should be a burr along the entire edge, not just a section of it. Afterwards work through the finer grits. Your knives will be much sharper if you do this. Hope this helps somewhat
@@hamstermunchies5558 Stones are really only needed to form the edge and fix really dull blades, a leather strop and green compound will really be what gives you that razor sharp edge and if you strop your blades before you let them get dull you can keep them razor sharp with just the strop and compound and do so removing the least amount the metal from the blade as possible.
@@hamstermunchies5558 The most important thing is to establish an edge , then you can refine it. Anything over 1000 is for specialized work,let's say fish etc... 1000 is all you want/need.
+Michael Jacobs Don't perpetuate urban myths about pulling steel or pushing steel, it will just confuse people. Old school used to teach edge first sharpening simply because of safety. Old folding knives had no locks on them so aggressive sharpening in a edge trailing or "stropping" style could close the blade on your fingers. People thought, why try to learn 2 styles? So many people just sharpened fixed blades the same way...just easier to use 1 style so you don't daydream one day and sharpen the wrong knife the wrong way and get hurt when a slip joint closes on your fingers. Somehow, observers mistook this style as a superior sharpening style and assigned all sorts of voodoo to it. Along came locking blades and soon they dominated the market to such a degree that slip joints are almost extinct and thus we can sharpen edge trailing now without worries. So now you can strop a razor or sharpen a folder and a fixed blade all using the same style. In fact some of the most efficient sharpening is done back and forth or "Japanese" style. Have fun and develope your own style and use any and all combinations of stones and stroke patterns...x pattern...j pattern...circles...whatever. It really doesn't matter as long as you get the results you want and you are happy with the edge you get then you did it right.
Took the words right out of my mouth mate.... Been sharpening wood working tools, drill bits, router bits, knives etc for nearly 45 years now. I am a carpenter by trade. It ammuses me at how much bullshit is perpetuated by ignorant, copycat samurai wannabes these days. I have never used anything but edge leading techniques because I was schooled that way for the very reasons you laid out in your comment. Because of that it is the only way I do it due to mainly feeling comfortable with that method. Either way works fine the aim of the game is and always will be consistency with your angle presentation of tool to sharpening medium.
@Beeblebrox One now you're trying to dive into the minutiae and unless someone has a very expensive Japanese sushi knife you will never know the difference...and the difference is not determined by sharpening style alone... it's determined by angle of attack in reference to the spine... you can develop teeth facing forward for a push cut or teeth facing back to the handle for a pull cut or with circles almost no teeth at all for press cut... which is what a razor or cheese knife is basically... no slicing motion just pressing the edge straight at what you're cutting... like straight razor shaving...those are discussions for knife forums not a TH-cam comment section... there just isn't enough room unless you make your own video dedicated to the subject.
@@easyaussietarget3355 would you make a TH-cam video how to do it. My father left me amazing knives and a number of sharpening stones. I remember him using oil (some old cans of oil are kept with the stones). I would really like to learn how to do this properly.
Some great information here. I've been sharpening my knives since my young years in BoyScouts and have done a "decent" job doing so but it just wasn't quite the sharpness others have been sharpened by. Now I know how to do this properly. Thank you for posting.
Awesome video. Just tried my first knife sharpening ever using this technque and got the knife to cut the paper as per your demo. Failed on the arm hair though. Maybe next time
Harbor Freight just started selling an oil stone like this. It's cheap, but I wanted to try it out before I started to think about buying anything more expensive. I'm sure it's not top of the line quality, but this was more of a test run than anything. It gave our knives an edge back, not razor sharp, but they'll at least slice a tomato without putting any effort into it. I need to run them over the stone a bit more and get a strop to finish them.
If my knife's blade is serrated near the handle can I sharpen it the same way? Or do I just use this for the rest of the blade? (Nevermind, found the answer) Also thanks so much for an informative, accurate, helpful video
I broke out my Dads stone last night to sharpen a new knife... and to put a new edge on some other blades I have.... I totally forgot that my Dad did the 10, 9, 8...etc.... will have to go back and do that.
Great video 👍👍👍 I have a couple of questions if you don't mind and have time... I have a old stone but I don't know what grit it is and I can't tell what kind it is 🤷 I found it years ago and starting to chip away on the sides. Is there anyway to restore a stone or clean it up a little bit? The next question would be how do I know if I have a good blade and one that's worth the time to sharpen? I had some nice looking knives before but half the time the steal ain't worth the time to sharpen. The nicer a knife is, the cheaper the blade is. That's just my opinion about the knives I bought in my life time.
Both are useful. I use oil stones for most grit but depending on how heavy handed you are the finer stones over 1k are better as water stones. If you have a light hand the oil stones take longer over 1k. This is just my personal experience. I tend to be heavy handed so I don’t have much issue with oil stones up to 8k
Oh I forgot to mention don't worry too much about pushing or pulling with these coarse stones its later on when you start to be really fussy about your edge and you buy expensive whet stones in finer grits that you must pull and not push, same for stropping but if you are keen you will find all this out!
San b I've never tried it. I would think it's a bit thick? Might clog up your oilstone... Give it a try and let me know what your results are. I'm curious to know
Thanks for the video. Good point: oil the stone thoroughly. Bad point: pushing the knife is just dangerous and doesn't work from my experience. I don't know why all these knife sharpening video use a piece of paper to illustrate the sharpness? Who needs to cut paper this way? I use a tomato to check if my knife cuts well.
Those are not oilstones, they're whetstones. Oil stones are natural stones, usually Arkansas stones, and are called oilstones because they need oil on them to protect the stone. Whetstones can use oil, water, or nothing at all. Forget the paper. Just set you knife straight up an down on the stone. That's ninety degrees. Tilt it half way toward the stone, and you have forty-five degrees. Tilt it halfway again, and you have twenty-two and a half degrees. Tilt it just a hair more, and you have twenty degrees, or tilt it halfway again, and you as close to eleven degrees as you can get, which will make it hair-whittling sharp.As for oil, if these are kitchen knives, or if they come into contact with food in the wild, buy mineral oil. It's dirt cheap, and food safe.
Well to be really correct, it's an aluminium oxide stone but I just call it an oil stone because that is what most people would call it. I don't care for the correct name, I care for the end result :-). Your method of sharpening does work but I prefer to do I this way. There are dozens of ways to sharpen a knife, this was just one of them. With regards to oil, I did use mineral oil
James Ritchie you are an absolute beginner You don't know anything about sharpening To get the sharpening angle you lay your knife on the stone and take a bit of a higher angle Then you go into the stone You will feel the knife is cutting into it You back of and feel for it to stop cutting into the stone Second method You take the knife put it flat on the stone Then you lift it up and look that the shadow at the sharpening edge disappears Thats your angle Then to you mister in the video Please also pull back and stay longer on your stone If you don t what will happen is your knife will have little like holes on the cutting edge meaning it won t cut that well
I didn’t see you using any oil on the stone? Or is it something I missed? I was very interested to know how much oil would you use on a stone like that
Actually, there is, edge following/stropping strokes produce a finer (sharper) edge. But this is on the highest end of sharpening skill, most people would struggle to get an edge fine enough for it to matter what technique they use.
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
Why bother with all that messing around? A twin electric grinder will sharpen a knife on both sides all in one go in a few seconds and will be just as sharp for the purpose.
Oh my! Everyone is a fucking expert aren't they! It is an Oil Stone not a Whet stone and if you put oil on a Whet stone straight after that throw it in the rubbish! Dear James Ritchie please don't give advice when you clearly have no idea! If you are using an oil stone with knives that will be preparing food please use a vegetable or sunflower oil not a mineral oil or wd-40 these are fine for chisels but will taint food if used on kitchen or hunting knives, and before you start saying I am a fool I make my living with sharp knives , I am a chef and an avid hunter for the last 30 years so neer! Technique and angles are something you develop with experience and depending upon the application as Michael so rightly explained but somewhere between 15 and 20 deg will be just fine to start.
LouSaydus I'm curious to know why you would say that? It most certainly works well for me. This is an educational video so I'd like to hear your thoughts on the matter
There are a few major issues. I'm not super familiar with oil stones so I won't go over the application of oil, but it seems that the stone used is very coarse and needs more lubrication to avoid edge catching. The first major issue is the stone is not secured properly. It is rocking back and forth as the knife is being stroked which means it's impossible for the sharpener to ensure they are running the blade at the right angle. The second major issue is the knife is leaving the stone, that shouldn't be done because you're going to hit the stone at a slightly different angle each time (possibly chipping a coarse stone) you put it back down on it. Even if you manage to put it down at the correct angle you're going to roll the edge of the blade ever so slightly and ruin the bur you just created. In an extreme case you'll end up with a curved profile which will make the knife durable but it wont have a very sharp edge. Also pushing or pulling are both perfectly viable on lower grits. Once you work your way up to 1k+ you'll want to pull the blade so a bur forms and is worn away rather than pushed under the blade possibly causing edge defects. The strop shown here with no compound was extremely worn. When small bits of leather get under the blade you don't make good contact, not a major issue due to the way you should be running the blade over it but why show something that's off when teaching others? You should also impregnate your strop with a compound to help polish the edge and smooth it even further as well as lubricate the action ensuring equal pressure and draw speed. Again the compound isn't going to make or break the edge but it'll get you in the correct mindset and will help to refine the edge.
@@LouSaydusthis is the most annoying thing to read. You sound like a boomer mixed with a redditor and it's absolutely insufferable. How can not removing the knife "ensure" the angle is always the same? It's impossible to keep the angle the "exact" same simply because a human is using motion for the task. Humans are not precisely dialed in machines. Its comments like yours that cause a normal person to suddenly doubt the information given in the tutorial (which happened to be a great tutorial). If he is so criminally wrong in his technique why did the knife get sharp? Why did it cut through paper? If you're so sure the video is going to lead beginner knife sharpeners astray why don't you make a video of your own?
The most common mistake with pronunciation I've ever encountered in knife-related videos is the unnecessary addition of the "i" in Aluminum to make it "Aluminium". All it takes is just a bit more research even if there's great difficulty with speaking in an entirely different language.
Anthony Mann. You can pronounce it either way because it is spelt either way. In South Africa, where I am from, that is how the entire population pronounces aluminium
Anthony Mann Strange how it's spelt "Aluminium" on the Periodic Table of Elements - I guess thousands of scientists must be wrong. I'll call them up and let them know.
The person who discovered Aluminium called it Aluminum, but the world chemistry body thought the name was silly and should have been bought into line with the other element names, but they let it slide until the guy who made the initial discovery died. The Americans didn't like it so they kept the name the guy originally chose, but the rest of the world adopted the standardised form because it fits better in the periodic table. There are a ton of other bizarre language anomalies too, so it's best to look things up before trying to correct someone.
Years of trying to sharpen knives on an oil stone, and your one important message taught me: sharpen forwards, not backwards, at last.. thank you.
if you sharpen forward, you are basically cutting the stone :/
ihave oil stone just like this but a really old 1 its my friends grandads he is 60 so ye pretty old 1 but can i hell get anything sharp i aint even used oil i just use a bit if olive oil and other stuff lol
@@judyanngutierrez3319 you can go either way
You can go either way
@@judyanngutierrez3319 you arent cutting the stone. Your edge isnt digging into it. You're grinding off
Thank you. I was searching for sound advice on the proper technique to sharpen a knife using an oil stone and you nailed it. Very helpful. The leather explanation was helpful as well.
Thanks. I been on a zombie apocalypse prep for last 6 months. Got everything I need.
Thank you for the lesson I just bought a new stone, and I thought I had some idea of what to do. I figured I better check first and came across your video. Let's just say I was completely wrong in how to sharpen knives, so thank you again for the great video!
Hey I'm glad it helped! Hope you get the results you're looking for, but remember that freehand sharpening takes practice, so don't be upset if the first few times you try don't come out what you had hoped for. The key to freehand sharpening is consistency. Good luck!
I'm a sharpening noob and I wish I got a cheap stone like this from the start. I watched tutorials where they used various whetstones from 1000 grit to 30,000 grit that were very expensive. So for my first stones I bought a 1000/3000 and a 4000/8000 stone for $12 and $16. After following the tutorials my knives were just as blunt but the bevel was really smooth. Then I used a $5 oilstone that came with a bundle and after about a minute with the same technique my knives became so much sharper. Its definitely messier but I am only going to use cheap oilstones from now on. I would defo recommend them as long as people don't mind getting their hands covered in oily grit. The plus side is it softens your hands in the process
While I don't think you wasted your money, as whetstones are good to have, but anything abrasive and harder than the knife you are sharpening will put an edge on it, no matter how cheap. My current method of keeping a fresh edge on my basic knives is sandpaper stuck to a piece of wood in 220, 600 and 1200 grit with a leather strop charged with green compound. It was super cheap to make and has lasted me years! However if I've truly dulled the edges too much then I start with an oilstone again and then afterwards go through the different grits of sandpaper
@@Mikey4808 That's a relief to hear and thanks for the tips! :) Its probably all down to my inexperience since I first tried sharpening a couple of weeks ago so I'm learning what works through trial and error. Maybe I only achieved a smooth, polished knife instead of a sharp one with the whetstones because I didn't keep at it long enough. I've since heard that using the finer stones is a slower sharpening process
@@hamstermunchies5558 It takes some practice but give it another go. You initially need to get a burr using the coarse stone and then work through the finer grits to refine the edge, but the importance is getting that burr. The burr mustn't be too big though. Only sharpen on the coarse stone until you just begin to feel a burr on the edge, not more, otherwise it becomes more difficult to refine. A good way to check is running some toilet paper from the spine down perpendicular to the edge. If the toilet paper catches on the edge it means there is a burr. There should be a burr along the entire edge, not just a section of it. Afterwards work through the finer grits. Your knives will be much sharper if you do this. Hope this helps somewhat
@@hamstermunchies5558 Stones are really only needed to form the edge and fix really dull blades, a leather strop and green compound will really be what gives you that razor sharp edge and if you strop your blades before you let them get dull you can keep them razor sharp with just the strop and compound and do so removing the least amount the metal from the blade as possible.
@@hamstermunchies5558 The most important thing is to establish an edge , then you can refine it. Anything over 1000 is for specialized work,let's say fish etc... 1000 is all you want/need.
Thanks for the great video. I sharped my momas knifes good.
Just got back from ER had 16 sticheces. Moma said thanks to.
+Michael Jacobs Don't perpetuate urban myths about pulling steel or pushing steel, it will just confuse people. Old school used to teach edge first sharpening simply because of safety. Old folding knives had no locks on them so aggressive sharpening in a edge trailing or "stropping" style could close the blade on your fingers. People thought, why try to learn 2 styles? So many people just sharpened fixed blades the same way...just easier to use 1 style so you don't daydream one day and sharpen the wrong knife the wrong way and get hurt when a slip joint closes on your fingers. Somehow, observers mistook this style as a superior sharpening style and assigned all sorts of voodoo to it. Along came locking blades and soon they dominated the market to such a degree that slip joints are almost extinct and thus we can sharpen edge trailing now without worries. So now you can strop a razor or sharpen a folder and a fixed blade all using the same style. In fact some of the most efficient sharpening is done back and forth or "Japanese" style. Have fun and develope your own style and use any and all combinations of stones and stroke patterns...x pattern...j pattern...circles...whatever. It really doesn't matter as long as you get the results you want and you are happy with the edge you get then you did it right.
Took the words right out of my mouth mate....
Been sharpening wood working tools, drill bits, router bits, knives etc for nearly 45 years now.
I am a carpenter by trade.
It ammuses me at how much bullshit is perpetuated by ignorant, copycat samurai wannabes these days.
I have never used anything but edge leading techniques because I was schooled that way for the very reasons you laid out in your comment.
Because of that it is the only way I do it due to mainly feeling comfortable with that method.
Either way works fine the aim of the game is and always will be consistency with your angle presentation of tool to sharpening medium.
@Beeblebrox One now you're trying to dive into the minutiae and unless someone has a very expensive Japanese sushi knife you will never know the difference...and the difference is not determined by sharpening style alone... it's determined by angle of attack in reference to the spine... you can develop teeth facing forward for a push cut or teeth facing back to the handle for a pull cut or with circles almost no teeth at all for press cut... which is what a razor or cheese knife is basically... no slicing motion just pressing the edge straight at what you're cutting... like straight razor shaving...those are discussions for knife forums not a TH-cam comment section... there just isn't enough room unless you make your own video dedicated to the subject.
@@easyaussietarget3355 would you make a TH-cam video how to do it. My father left me amazing knives and a number of sharpening stones. I remember him using oil (some old cans of oil are kept with the stones). I would really like to learn how to do this properly.
Where's your instructional video? Oh you don't have one, don't moan for the sake of moaning
Some great information here. I've been sharpening my knives since my young years in BoyScouts and have done a "decent" job doing so but it just wasn't quite the sharpness others have been sharpened by. Now I know how to do this properly. Thank you for posting.
Awesome video. Just tried my first knife sharpening ever using this technque and got the knife to cut the paper as per your demo. Failed on the arm hair though. Maybe next time
Harbor Freight just started selling an oil stone like this. It's cheap, but I wanted to try it out before I started to think about buying anything more expensive. I'm sure it's not top of the line quality, but this was more of a test run than anything. It gave our knives an edge back, not razor sharp, but they'll at least slice a tomato without putting any effort into it. I need to run them over the stone a bit more and get a strop to finish them.
i hope you know how many people you helped with this lesson. Have a good day and thank you I learned.
Well taught. U r master at sharpening and teaching
Great video. I'm looking at sharpening my pocket knife and machete, I'll have a play this weekend!
Would you oil the fine side of the stone?
Yes. I forgot to put oil on the fine side when making the video but there was indeed oil on it from when I did a "practice run" of the video
Dark Knight MGTOW dude stop commenting u sound dumb as fuck
I am mesmerised during the leather bit! Also lol "hairs get scared off"
I have inherited a whetsone
how can I tell if it a oil stone .
What side is which. Is one side fine or the same on both side.?
Thank you .
I would appreciate a tutorial on wettie stone. Please provide a tutorial on another video. From K & L
If my knife's blade is serrated near the handle can I sharpen it the same way? Or do I just use this for the rest of the blade?
(Nevermind, found the answer)
Also thanks so much for an informative, accurate, helpful video
I definitely learned in this video!Thanks!!
Australians really know how to sharpen a knife
I assumed South African.
Possibly Rhodesian/Zimbabwean ??
ha Just a joke mate :-)
Thanks mate. You said it all man. Flawless description.
What do you think about Edge Make Pro, it uses steel rods with different textures for sharpening and of course package includes rods for honing also.
So you don't need to oil the fine side?
If you do less strokes each time won’t you be taking more off of one side than the other resulting in unequal bevels?
Thanks for sharing. Regarding. If leather strop, do you use the smooth side up or the furry side up? 👍
Great Video... Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge !!!! : )
I have questions please,If i suck this kind of stone in mineral oil like few hours is there any problem?
Can I use coconut oil or water instead of mineral oil?
followed the instructions exactly and great result. cheers.
brilliant video, sound advice
Boet, I'm in sa where can I buy okapi knives
good quality bait knife you have there mr.
Nicely explained.
Lekker sweet like a lemon.
you didn't oil the finer side. do we have to?
I broke out my Dads stone last night to sharpen a new knife... and to put a new edge on some other blades I have.... I totally forgot that my Dad did the 10, 9, 8...etc.... will have to go back and do that.
top man ..there is something therapeutic about sharpening
Nice calming voice
what compound do you put on your strop?
No compound. It works fine without it but if you want to put compound on then the results will be even better
to update, I have finally rubbed green compound into my strop and the results give a slightly more finer edge. It's not essential but it does help
Great video 👍👍👍
I have a couple of questions if you don't mind and have time... I have a old stone but I don't know what grit it is and I can't tell what kind it is 🤷 I found it years ago and starting to chip away on the sides. Is there anyway to restore a stone or clean it up a little bit? The next question would be how do I know if I have a good blade and one that's worth the time to sharpen? I had some nice looking knives before but half the time the steal ain't worth the time to sharpen. The nicer a knife is, the cheaper the blade is. That's just my opinion about the knives I bought in my life time.
Saying hi to find out the answer as well.
@@chrischapman276same
Do you oil both sides or just one?
I have a question, oilstone or wetstone?
Both are useful. I use oil stones for most grit but depending on how heavy handed you are the finer stones over 1k are better as water stones. If you have a light hand the oil stones take longer over 1k. This is just my personal experience. I tend to be heavy handed so I don’t have much issue with oil stones up to 8k
Oil and waterstones ARE whetstones.
Thank you. Now I can carve my Xmas Turkey, today.
Great work 👍
What grit are the 2 sides of the stone u use?
Oh I forgot to mention don't worry too much about pushing or pulling with these coarse stones its later on when you start to be really fussy about your edge and you buy expensive whet stones in finer grits that you must pull and not push, same for stropping but if you are keen you will find all this out!
Very useful video, thank you.
what is the name of the oil bottle use here?
Hey experienced person there (i know its stupid question but...)can i use coconut oil with oli stones ?
San b I've never tried it. I would think it's a bit thick? Might clog up your oilstone... Give it a try and let me know what your results are. I'm curious to know
Me aswell. lol. ill give it a shot
Glad to tell you it works like butter
Michael Jacobs hey do i have to saturate my stone in oil (submerge)
Thanks for the video. Good point: oil the stone thoroughly. Bad point: pushing the knife is just dangerous and doesn't work from my experience. I don't know why all these knife sharpening video use a piece of paper to illustrate the sharpness? Who needs to cut paper this way? I use a tomato to check if my knife cuts well.
Those are not oilstones, they're whetstones. Oil stones are natural stones, usually Arkansas stones, and are called oilstones because they need oil on them to protect the stone. Whetstones can use oil, water, or nothing at all. Forget the paper. Just set you knife straight up an down on the stone. That's ninety degrees. Tilt it half way toward the stone, and you have forty-five degrees. Tilt it halfway again, and you have twenty-two and a half degrees. Tilt it just a hair more, and you have twenty degrees, or tilt it halfway again, and you as close to eleven degrees as you can get, which will make it hair-whittling sharp.As for oil, if these are kitchen knives, or if they come into contact with food in the wild, buy mineral oil. It's dirt cheap, and food safe.
Well to be really correct, it's an aluminium oxide stone but I just call it an oil stone because that is what most people would call it. I don't care for the correct name, I care for the end result :-). Your method of sharpening does work but I prefer to do I this way. There are dozens of ways to sharpen a knife, this was just one of them. With regards to oil, I did use mineral oil
James Ritchie natural stones do not have to use oil. that's a myth. some good info there. but also some inaccurate info also
James Ritchie it says oilstone right on them lmfao
James Ritchie you are an absolute beginner
You don't know anything about sharpening
To get the sharpening angle you lay your knife on the stone and take a bit of a higher angle
Then you go into the stone
You will feel the knife is cutting into it
You back of and feel for it to stop cutting into the stone
Second method
You take the knife put it flat on the stone
Then you lift it up and look that the shadow at the sharpening edge disappears
Thats your angle
Then to you mister in the video
Please also pull back and stay longer on your stone
If you don t what will happen is your knife will have little like holes on the cutting edge meaning it won t cut that well
@@010falcon that nobody replied absolutely great information it worked for my stone and wife
I can’t tell if your Australian or asparagus
Sounds like the birds are worried 😟
Ag Lekker man, nice one!!!
lol the just chiseled knife still cuts paper better than after I try sharpening. hopefully i'll learn what i'm doing wrong here
What kind of oil do you use?
Singer general purpose oil
Could wd40 be used as the oil?
Nope. ŴD40 is a mixture of kerosine and grease.
Great information thanks 🙏
I didn’t see you using any oil on the stone? Or is it something I missed? I was very interested to know how much oil would you use on a stone like that
Thx that was good 👍
Good video!
Very helpful thanks
thanks mate appreciate the vid. very helpful
What's the grid of this stone
Way too much.
Good vid
Good luck 🤞😃
Does your hair grow back ?
Yep, but never in the right spot.
Good Job.
Fantastic my wife going to love me for this
Sweet edge.
Mooi man! =D
Thanks Saffa boy make more vids
Excellent….
Did he say 25-50 degrees per side for a cleaver? I can see 25 but 50? That's 100 degrees inclusive.
Lekker vid, boet.
I fastened my stone to some scrap 2x
there isnt any difference at all between sharpening forward and backwards
but its just safer to sharpen forwards with non locking folding knives
Actually, there is, edge following/stropping strokes produce a finer (sharper) edge.
But this is on the highest end of sharpening skill, most people would struggle to get an edge fine enough for it to matter what technique they use.
Don’t see any oil on there.
Lekker boerseun! Love it, shot china. Ek het geleer.
are you South African?
I am indeed South African my bru.
No creation and testing for a burr means it will never be really sharp
Incorrect.
That's not a knife, This is a knife😅.
Use a damp rag
Cheers 🤙🏼
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
Why you don't apply oil on yer oilstone.
He did.
@@kamiskenaw4340 He probably just watched the video from the middle where Michael forgot to oil the fine side! lol
1:22 That's not a knife.
What is it then
I smaak the Souf Efrikan eksent bru
Why bother with all that messing around? A twin electric grinder will sharpen a knife on both sides all in one go in a few seconds and will be just as sharp for the purpose.
Redblade because not everyone can facilitate a twin electric grinder that's why
Thank youuu
little more oil
This was painful to watch.
The recurve he's developing is all I could think about. I used to not know any better either.
Does anyone else here Croc Dundee saying “that’s a knife!”
WOW
Jis man kan hoor dis n boertjie wat hier praat. 😉
I was using the stone without putting oil smh ,
carlos salazar yu can dry hump it for a touch up. Shd have lil bit oil still in it. Keep on Slicing🔪🔪
Oh my! Everyone is a fucking expert aren't they! It is an Oil Stone not a Whet stone and if you put oil on a Whet stone straight after that throw it in the rubbish!
Dear James Ritchie please don't give advice when you clearly have no idea! If you are using an oil stone with knives that will be preparing food please use a vegetable or sunflower oil not a mineral oil or wd-40 these are fine for chisels but will taint food if used on kitchen or hunting knives, and before you start saying I am a fool I make my living with sharp knives , I am a chef and an avid hunter for the last 30 years so neer! Technique and angles are something you develop with experience and depending upon the application as Michael so rightly explained but somewhere between 15 and 20 deg will be just fine to start.
Don't talk anymore start quickly to work
That's not an oilstone at all
Yes, it is.
This is wrong on so many levels... please do not sharpen your knives like this, people.
LouSaydus I'm curious to know why you would say that? It most certainly works well for me. This is an educational video so I'd like to hear your thoughts on the matter
There are a few major issues. I'm not super familiar with oil stones so I won't go over the application of oil, but it seems that the stone used is very coarse and needs more lubrication to avoid edge catching. The first major issue is the stone is not secured properly. It is rocking back and forth as the knife is being stroked which means it's impossible for the sharpener to ensure they are running the blade at the right angle. The second major issue is the knife is leaving the stone, that shouldn't be done because you're going to hit the stone at a slightly different angle each time (possibly chipping a coarse stone) you put it back down on it. Even if you manage to put it down at the correct angle you're going to roll the edge of the blade ever so slightly and ruin the bur you just created. In an extreme case you'll end up with a curved profile which will make the knife durable but it wont have a very sharp edge. Also pushing or pulling are both perfectly viable on lower grits. Once you work your way up to 1k+ you'll want to pull the blade so a bur forms and is worn away rather than pushed under the blade possibly causing edge defects. The strop shown here with no compound was extremely worn. When small bits of leather get under the blade you don't make good contact, not a major issue due to the way you should be running the blade over it but why show something that's off when teaching others? You should also impregnate your strop with a compound to help polish the edge and smooth it even further as well as lubricate the action ensuring equal pressure and draw speed. Again the compound isn't going to make or break the edge but it'll get you in the correct mindset and will help to refine the edge.
@@LouSaydusthis is the most annoying thing to read. You sound like a boomer mixed with a redditor and it's absolutely insufferable. How can not removing the knife "ensure" the angle is always the same? It's impossible to keep the angle the "exact" same simply because a human is using motion for the task. Humans are not precisely dialed in machines. Its comments like yours that cause a normal person to suddenly doubt the information given in the tutorial (which happened to be a great tutorial). If he is so criminally wrong in his technique why did the knife get sharp? Why did it cut through paper? If you're so sure the video is going to lead beginner knife sharpeners astray why don't you make a video of your own?
The most common mistake with pronunciation I've ever encountered in knife-related videos is the unnecessary addition of the "i" in Aluminum to make it "Aluminium". All it takes is just a bit more research even if there's great difficulty with speaking in an entirely different language.
Anthony Mann. You can pronounce it either way because it is spelt either way. In South Africa, where I am from, that is how the entire population pronounces aluminium
Anthony Mann Strange how it's spelt "Aluminium" on the Periodic Table of Elements - I guess thousands of scientists must be wrong. I'll call them up and let them know.
YouAreSafeNow It's not spelled "Aluminium". It's "Aluminum".
but oh well. Different places.
The person who discovered Aluminium called it Aluminum, but the world chemistry body thought the name was silly and should have been bought into line with the other element names, but they let it slide until the guy who made the initial discovery died. The Americans didn't like it so they kept the name the guy originally chose, but the rest of the world adopted the standardised form because it fits better in the periodic table.
There are a ton of other bizarre language anomalies too, so it's best to look things up before trying to correct someone.