You must have laser guided ninja hands because damn that spot on the oil pan is clean it almost looks like the spot was masked and sprayed. But then I thought to myself you guys would never try to pull a fast one on us. So it must be laser guided ninja hands.
I bought the 3400033 which is a 250 watt 3.5 - 4.5 pad. I placed it on bottom of Duramax oil pan 12 hours before I started the truck, These are low watt so I was told to plug it in after you shut engine off. It is a 12 quart oil pan. The high temp that day was 35 degrees and it got down to 20 degrees and when I went out to start truck, the bottom of the oil pan was warm and heat gun showed 70 degrees. As I moved heat gun up oil pan it went down to 35 degrees. I started the truck, it sounded like a warm start and I didn't hear valves hitting which makes me think the oil was warm enough to go to top of engine, and at idle engine temp gauge was at 180 degrees in 15 minutes. This is fast for my truck. Diesels normally warm up really slow. I'm buying a battery warmer next. If you buy the model that has CSA approved, it has a thermostat in it. These ones won't go over 200 degrees. The ones without CSA approval, heat up and do not shut off when they reach 200 degrees. The CSA models cycle on and off when they reach their high temp.
Got one for my Nissan Titan plan to get a second for the trans and a battery heater and then make a hole for a noco port since this October got a morning at -5.
I mean the honda element oil pan is VERY flat. As long as you buy quality (Japanese, avoid American cars) seems to not be an issue. Also yes it does pain me to knock my own country's car industry but dammit man we can't build a reliable power train to save our lives.
How many watts does each pad draw? We're mainly interested in 3-prong plugs for use in ND. We have some nasty winters here and our leader thinks in terms of 3-prong plugs for anything used outdoors. Thanks
There are many different sizes and wattages available to fit your application. You can view a chart of all our pad heaters and their details, including wattage, plug type, thermostat, etc. user-xdbqqk.cld.bz/Zerostart-Silicone-Pad-Heaters-Brochure/2/
@@Vova3iLvova There are cars that come from the factory with heated washer reservoirs (eg. Mercedes Benz). Fluid must of course be winter type but warm fluid melts the slush that collects on the wipers. It's a huge safety benefit.
Proper adhesion to the surface of the pan is essential. Using the adhesive and provided silicone sealant ensures that the entire back surface of the pad is in contact with the oil pan. If gaps or areas behind the pad surface are not in contact, this is a potential point of failure as the heat is not able to transfer as designed and will create a hot spot. This is also why we mention having a flat surface to adhere to, with no ridges, bumps, etc.
Dude, a heat sink disapates heat, therefore nullifying your heater. So no. The key is wattage to meet your needs and to not melt plastic. Go with like 100 watts, or just don't plug it in all night. If it's a big tank, another thought is multiple smaller 100 watt heaters.
these are stupid. the problem is this WHEN they fail, good luck getting removing them, especially if you did a superior job of prepping surface for that perfect bond. 1 of 2 heat pads i painstakingly insalled on my engines failed within 2 months
All these heaters are great if you're by a source where you can plug in but what's the point in getting any of these if you take your vehicle to work and it's sitting in a parking lot all day and it's 25° these are pointless except if you're at your house and you can plug in here's a better way run 5w20 motor oil if you live in an area where it gets below 30 degrees there you go that's all you got to do just run thinner oil guys that's it
25 degrees? These are for use in -30 degree weather. When you live in northern Canada, these or a block heater are a must or you're not driving your car/truck. Also, there are plugs where cars can hook into everywhere. Ill laugh at you as you use "oil thinner" to get your car going in subzero temps....fucking clown.
If your truck can't start at 25° you need a new truck. And NO you don run thinner oil you run a lower W oil... W has NO bearing on the oils thickness or viscosity at operating temp.. Might just be better if you stop giving advice.
You must have laser guided ninja hands because damn that spot on the oil pan is clean it almost looks like the spot was masked and sprayed. But then I thought to myself you guys would never try to pull a fast one on us. So it must be laser guided ninja hands.
"Use brake cleaner or"
Me: "I'll just use gasoline"
"That dont leave behind residue like Gasoline"
Me: "Damn, it's like he knew. lol"
I bought the 3400033 which is a 250 watt 3.5 - 4.5 pad. I placed it on bottom of Duramax oil pan 12 hours before I started the truck, These are low watt so I was told to plug it in after you shut engine off. It is a 12 quart oil pan. The high temp that day was 35 degrees and it got down to 20 degrees and when I went out to start truck, the bottom of the oil pan was warm and heat gun showed 70 degrees. As I moved heat gun up oil pan it went down to 35 degrees. I started the truck, it sounded like a warm start and I didn't hear valves hitting which makes me think the oil was warm enough to go to top of engine, and at idle engine temp gauge was at 180 degrees in 15 minutes. This is fast for my truck. Diesels normally warm up really slow. I'm buying a battery warmer next. If you buy the model that has CSA approved, it has a thermostat in it. These ones won't go over 200 degrees. The ones without CSA approval, heat up and do not shut off when they reach 200 degrees. The CSA models cycle on and off when they reach their high temp.
Got one for my Nissan Titan plan to get a second for the trans and a battery heater and then make a hole for a noco port since this October got a morning at -5.
IT is good for heat pomps? For degivrations?
you said avoid gaps but there was a large air gap at the cord lol
Yeah I shook my head when I saw it, twas a massive air gap too.
Mounts it to the worlds only smooth oil pan. Where’s the instal for the ones with huge divots and weird shapes??
Use a magnetic one instead
I mean the honda element oil pan is VERY flat. As long as you buy quality (Japanese, avoid American cars) seems to not be an issue.
Also yes it does pain me to knock my own country's car industry but dammit man we can't build a reliable power train to save our lives.
@@levisanchez7143which won't work on aluminum pans lol. There's always something!
@@scottrobson4097 then use metal straps in addition to adhesive.
How many watts does each pad draw? We're mainly interested in 3-prong plugs for use in ND. We have some nasty winters here and our leader thinks in terms of 3-prong plugs for anything used outdoors. Thanks
There are many different sizes and wattages available to fit your application. You can view a chart of all our pad heaters and their details, including wattage, plug type, thermostat, etc. user-xdbqqk.cld.bz/Zerostart-Silicone-Pad-Heaters-Brochure/2/
What you do sand the metal?
Sanding the metal roughs the surface up for better adhesion of the adhesive pad heaters.
Would this work on windscreen washer fluid tank? (Plastic)
omg. buy winter wahser fluid so it doesnt freeze. wtf are you even asking for?
lmao@@Vova3iLvova
@@Vova3iLvova There are cars that come from the factory with heated washer reservoirs (eg. Mercedes Benz). Fluid must of course be winter type but warm fluid melts the slush that collects on the wipers. It's a huge safety benefit.
@@simoncowbell.6783Unless the window is chipped. Warm fluid on cold window could result in it cracking
@@enderwiggin9091 That's right but chipped windshields will crack sooner or later in the wintertime. Most commonly from the use of defrost.
He missed a spot with the sealer.
Instead of gluing the pads on why not use several ceramic magnets? That looked like a steel oil pan to me that's what made me think of it
Proper adhesion to the surface of the pan is essential. Using the adhesive and provided silicone sealant ensures that the entire back surface of the pad is in contact with the oil pan. If gaps or areas behind the pad surface are not in contact, this is a potential point of failure as the heat is not able to transfer as designed and will create a hot spot. This is also why we mention having a flat surface to adhere to, with no ridges, bumps, etc.
Why do you need to remove the paint. If its on a perfectly smooth painted surface
The steel will have a more pourus and adherent surface. Unlike a smooth and repellent like painted surface.
Love it
What about mounting 250watt heater on fiberglass tank , do you need a heat sink ?
Dude, a heat sink disapates heat, therefore nullifying your heater. So no. The key is wattage to meet your needs and to not melt plastic. Go with like 100 watts, or just don't plug it in all night. If it's a big tank, another thought is multiple smaller 100 watt heaters.
@@garyaubrey4096 Dude...
Where do you plug in the cord; geeze, I cannot remove the oil pan; I'm a woman. Where does the cord go when you are driving?
Into an electrical outlet. You do not remove the oil pan.
these are stupid. the problem is this WHEN they fail, good luck getting removing them, especially if you did a superior job of prepping surface for that perfect bond. 1 of 2 heat pads i painstakingly insalled on my engines failed within 2 months
All these heaters are great if you're by a source where you can plug in but what's the point in getting any of these if you take your vehicle to work and it's sitting in a parking lot all day and it's 25° these are pointless except if you're at your house and you can plug in here's a better way run 5w20 motor oil if you live in an area where it gets below 30 degrees there you go that's all you got to do just run thinner oil guys that's it
25 degrees? These are for use in -30 degree weather. When you live in northern Canada, these or a block heater are a must or you're not driving your car/truck. Also, there are plugs where cars can hook into everywhere. Ill laugh at you as you use "oil thinner" to get your car going in subzero temps....fucking clown.
As pointless as punctuation, eh?
I hope you stayed in school because that is a wicked hard read.
If your truck can't start at 25° you need a new truck. And NO you don run thinner oil you run a lower W oil... W has NO bearing on the oils thickness or viscosity at operating temp.. Might just be better if you stop giving advice.
Yeah, great point.