Frame Sizing, Bike Chains & Slammed Stems | GCN Tech Clinic
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- Are you still stuck between two frame sizes? Wondering what chain makes a longer lasting drivetrain? Tubeless ready or clincher tyres? How do you travel with a bike that has hydraulic brakes? And does a heavier bike really make you fitter?
All that answered in this week's GCN Tech Clinic!
What Is My Frame Size? 00:20
Hardwearing or Less Hardwearing Chain? 02:19
Tubeless Ready Tyres or Clincher Tyres? 03:54
Travelling with a Hydraulic Brake System 06:07
Heavier or Lighter Bike to Get Fit? 09:04
Slammed Stem Too Dangerous? 11:15
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Have any tech questions you want answered? Comment down below using #askgcntech 👇💬
Thank you Alex and Ollie for your answer. Keep up the great work that you guys are doing.
#askgcntech Are deep section wheels pointless if you want to run 32 or 35c road tires? Bling ENVE 4.5s are optimized for 28c tires. If I plan to run 32s, am I better off going with a shallower wheel setup that's lighter if the wide tires are going to negate the deep section aero benefit?
#askgcntech Well my question is more about riding technique then bike tech... I really struggle to relax when I'm riding out of the saddle... Do you know any tipps or drills that I can practice so I can stay looser when I ride out the saddle Thanks Mo
There is another danger to having 6cm of steerer tube above the stem, especially on carbon steerer tubes. In order for te bike to be safe, the stem/steerer requires an expander plug, not just to be able to compress the headset bearings but also to support the steerer tube from the inside where the stem is clamped onto it. Most stems have a stack height of about 4cm which should be fully supported by the expander plug. Add to that the 6 cm excess steerer tube and you'd need a 10cm expander plug to be sure that the steerer tube has enough support and doesn't break when going through potholes or over a bump. Most bikes don't come with expander plugs even half that long. Forget being impaled by the excess tube in a crash... if the steerer snaps, the first thing to hit the floor is your face/teeth. My advice, get a good quaity long expander plug (Deda make one of 7cm) and leave no more than 15mm of steerer tube above the stem and don't worry about the 20 gram weight penalty.
I'd go even further: don't ride a carbon steerer unless you're racing professionally. It's just not worth the risk to shave 50-100g on a bike you're riding on the street or trail, with friends or solo.
@@jefffixesit60 as much as that is true, there are also some horror stories of aluminum steerers de-bonding from carbon fork crowns. Yikes.
0:01 Wow! This is going to be one HELL of a session. Ollie is rocking a Fiery Red Halo.🔥🔥🔥
9:30 I guess there's no point upgrading my cheap Decathlon Triban until I shed the extra 20 kg on my torso. At least I get some aero gains from a round tummy!
It's always about the engine. That said, a new bike won't hurt 😉
On smaller bike frames, be mindful that Canyon bikes usually tend to use 650b rims for more natural fit, but that limits your tire choices dramatically.
Great point! The 650b choice can be a great one for smaller riders 🙌
I know it can vary wildly, but based on my own experience I'd say it's better to get the smaller bike if you're between two sizes. In a smaller bike you can always compensate by increasing saddle height, sitting further back and using a long-ish stem. With the larger size you're likely to have a reach problem. You may find yourself stretching your arms in order to grab the handlebar, which will cause health issues such as neck and shoulder pain or even carpal tunnel syndrome, and that might force you into some bad compromises such as having the saddle too far forward and fitting a short stem. (The latter can make steering rather twitchy.) And it won't be as fast and nimble as a smaller bike, even if that 80mm stem can make you think the bike is more agile.
Also remember that cutting the steerer tube just because of the looks, it may be a cause of lowered interest in the bike if you want to sell it again.
glad im not the only one that develops a kink when bent over too harshly, thank you brake hoses
Thanks Alex , Dr O , and Isaac.....you both look well rested now ! I appreciate the advice , and this channel has helped me a lot ! Thanks again !
That's awesome to hear!
11:01 thank you for the explanation. You two are the best!
Thanks for asking a questions! Glad we could help 🙌
Having too much steerer tube above the stem IS quite dangerous. Depending on the size of expander plug you use, there's a likelihood that you're only supporting the top 3/4cm of the steerer tube from inside, which is where the stem should then clamp onto.
If your expander plug is just supporting the area above the stem, there's a risk of causing damage to the steerer tube when you clamp the stem on, or through repeated pressure on that part of the steerer whilst riding.
Cracked steerer tube = likely face plant!
Ollie you need to keep your head still.the halo behind your head is coming loose! 😂😂😂
Thanks Alex and Ollie
Glad we coul help!
Ollie's observation on frame sizing is interesting as it means he was running into the same size confusion on Canyon as I did. If I recall he was 184cm tall? Which would be 1 cm taller than me. And I've no idea about his inseam but I have 87cm. Canyon to my surprise at the time made the same medium suggestion as it did for him, but Canyon's large seemed much more like the sizing other brands were recommending for me in terms of geometry. Still, the slight confusion contributed (along with the lack of mudguard eyelets) to me going elsewhere; instead of the Canyon Endurace I ended up with a Litespeed Cherohala, quite a bit more money but a more versatile, albeit more relaxed geometry bike. In any case I didn't feel I could get low enough for a more aggressive bike, though I have since gotten a bit more flexible again.
I had the issue with being between sizes. I ended up with the larger size and did a bike fit to fine tune it. Glad I went that way because the next bike I’m getting isn’t available in an xxs. I’ll know exactly how I can fine tune that bike straight away. Same bike brand
I prefer a longer looking seat post on my 54 to the shorter one on my 56
9:33
Wouldn’t it be better for getting fitter if you’re in a group setting? You’re moving more mass to keep up with the group that is on lighter bikes, which requires putting down more watts (or riding in a more aero position) to keep up.
The chimney can be dangerous for one more reason and that is that the insert might be too short so the stem clamps on to a part of the steerertube which is not reinforced because the insert is too short which might cause the steerertube to snap so be very carefull!
I'm always in-between sizes L and XL (58 & 60 cm) being 6'2". But having long arms and legs with a shortish trunk it normally recommended to size down to 58 or large and this seems to be OK. Did size up once and that didn't go that well. So you need to look at your trunk/limb proportions or get a bike fit before buying.
Thanks for the tips! Always great to see the GCN community helping eachother out 🙌
@@gcntech would be good to get a bike fitter's view on GCN re trunk to arms/legs ratio. My bike fitter described me as having Orangutan arms 🤣
Caveat with going for the smaller bike: Many new bikes come with a special seat post shape and you are stuck with the length that the bike manufacturer provides you. This can often be a bit short.
Love the show!
On sizing, I tend to sit between Medium and Large (56 or 58), but end up with this choice on a race bike:
Medium is a bit low at the front (lots of spacers), but bar width and crank lengths are about right.
Large fits better on stack height, but the bars are too wide and cranks can be too long.
Would be great if you could specify bars/cranks/stem when ordering….
Interesting! You can do this on some brands 👀 Do you prefer the feel of the medium or large?
@@gcntech Hard to tell if setup for my geometry, but I prefer the look on a Large without the spacers…
Is that what Olly has gone for now?
Yep, I end up having to sell off the bars and cranks when I buy a new bike. Really wish we could spec this.
I’ve had a shop swap them for me once, but that’s kinda rare and I probably overpaid 😂
Just build the bike yourself, problem solved ;-)
4:55 - Veloflex record don't do a tubeless 23mm version though, so the TLR version is dead wide and heavy. 23mm @ 135g is still optimal for hill climbs
re travel with disc brakes: If not in a hardshell case, id take the rotors off as well. Just had one of mine very warped after a flight.
Cycling training never gets easier. You just go faster 😊
How and what's the best way to clean your bike if you've waxed your chain, and how often can you apply drip-on wax?
I ride 54/56 and 58 all fit good
It's possible to completely pop a hydraulic brake piston out of the caliper when compressing the lever with the wheel out Always chock the pads when the wheel is out and there's any risk of the lever being activated. Also, I'd recommend removing the rotors when packing a bike for transport.
It's worth noting you cannot use clinchers on hookless rims. If you have hookless rims, you have to use tubeless tires.
Some people I spoke to say that a faster bike will help you ride further, and do longer days on the bike, which will help your long distance endurance. I'd agree with that to some extent.
A slower bike will help your fitness on rides where fitness is not the goal, such as a commute. If your commute is a 50% effort and a commuter bike takes 20% more effort, you need to ride 20% harder to get to work in the same time.
Or, on routes where you're limited on your speed/distance, such as a low stress local loop - which you'd rather do, than go out onto the open roads on a faster bike in order to achieve the same effort.
Sounds like OCD.
Riding a heavier bike DOES improve your fitness level faster.
The extra weight is a training tool accelerating and climbing. HIIT is more effective.
I would be mindful when using tubes with tubeless tyres. While this is generally possible, some models of tyres are so tight, that fitting them alone on the rim is quite a challenge, not to mention inserting a tube in between. I know from personal experience.
#ASKGCNTECH Thanks GCN Tech for sharing your knowledge on so many bike tech topics. My question concerns performance characteristics of wheel width. We read a lot about the benefits of wider tires but what about wheels? As just one example, If I run a 42mm tire on a 20mm internal width wheel and run the same tire on a 25 mm internal width wheel, what changes in performance characteristics, handling or ride feel should I expect? More importantly, how can I calculate the optimum wheel width for a certain tire on a specific bike? There are many great tire pressure calculators for presumedly optimal performance. But how do I know the optimal wheel width?
Given that 5 extra watts is worth more than a kilo of weight savings, I'm always focused on reducing friction in every way I can. I ride with several people who are younger, stronger, and riding the latest bikes and highest performance tires they can get, but they cannot outrun me going downhill on my 12- to 25-year old mid-level carbon- or steel-framed bikes shod with Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires fitted with tubes. Ditto with pacelines, I can draft along with minimal effort, compared to the folks I ride with. I attribute this to them not having their disc brakes adjusted properly, as I hear their brakes squealing at low speeds. Aero wheels on all my bikes, properly trued and dished, sealed ball-bearing guide and tension pulleys in rear derailleurs, regular checks for drag in cranks and hubs, and of course, wearing snug fitting clothing and maintaining good aero position on the bike. At 69 years old, my body is slower, but my knowledge helps me close the gaps in my physical performance 😁
Good points… As an older rider myself, I’ve found that age and treachery can triumph over youth and out of tune bikes.
Age and treachery can be used on bikes fitted with disc brakes too…
Disc drag can be tricky to eliminate. The discs need to be flat and the calipers clean. Then the calipers need to be centered. If the problem persists, try a bleed. If there is STILL some drag, the pistons might not be fully retracting between quick stabs of the brake lever. In this case, keep the brake lever partially depressed while the top bleed screw is re-installed. This will put enough static vacuum in the system to coax those brake pads into a fully retracted state between sharp brake applications.
They’ll be a smidge more lever travel but full braking power will remain.
I have exactly the same issue (if not the immediacy of buying a new bike) but I am right on the boundary of Large and X-Large.
Are you able to try the bike out?
Ollie, when you got your L size Aeroad did canyon put you on 175 cranks? My guess is that you have more influence than the regular customers and got your preferences in stem length and crank length. Impossible for us regular guys, biggest downside of getting a Canyon.
I’m not sure, but I thought @dicksy69 was asking whether the changing altitude (i.e. air pressure) would affect the hydraulic brake system.
@gcntech I was thinking the same. And same question with a pressurized tubeless setup with sealant. #askgcntech
I binned it about 2 months ago and fell on my uncut chimney that had my bike computer mounted on it (temporary solution while I got used to the new height). I broke 2 ribs and smashed the computer. It's cut correctly now.
What are the regulations about travelling (flying) with e-Bikes? I've heard there are restrictions on the size of battery allowed. If this is not a simple answer it might be subject worth a short video from GCN...Your thoughts?
I think it was Cam Nicholls of Road Cycling Academy who recommended training on heavier wheels than you would compete on.
If you buy a slower bike you would need to work harder on group rides to keep up, which might be beneficial
#askgcntech Hi Adam and Ollie, thanks as always for the advice. I’m looking to upgrade my old winter road bike to a 1x gravel bike. It is an early disc road bike and has cable actuated discs and quick release wheels. Would there be any issues with upgrading to hydraulic disc brakes on a frame designed with quick release dropouts? Thanks again
Hi all, I am looking at getting some new wheels and those on the shortlist are hookless, can you still run tubes on hookless rims? I cannot find any hookless compatible tyres which are not tubeless. Keep up the good work team gcn #askgcntech
#askgcntech When setting up integrated Mech cables, would it be possible to use a Brake noodle for both brake and shifter where it threads through the stem/headset? To try to keep from kinking?
Been living off a bike now for some time. Total weight a bit over 80lbs, add a backpack as well. When all of it is off it is amazing how fast, and for how long, i can go. Get the bike you love riding, and ride more.
If you take off all the things that give you a massive drag, ofcourse you will be faster.....
@@66mikkim averaging multiple hundreds of miles a week with the weight: is what provides the enormous benefits. I often hang with roadies and their aerodynamic kit, narrow tires, and carbon weight weenie bikes (with my 2" wide, heavier bike frame, normal cloths). Enjoy your riding.
This is awesome! Where are you currently riding?
@@gcntech just road from Georgia up to Ohio (USA).
That’s a massive effort, Jim. Respect!
Hello hello. A bike cleaning question. I'm only using dry lube for my chain, because of the climate I ride in. When washing my bike, should I be covering up my chain/take it off to wash my bike? Or should I just clean the chain every time and reapply my dry lube (seems overkill). I wash every 2 weeks and ride around 4-6 rides in those 2 weeks #askgcntech
I always size down when I'm between frame sizes. Though my height might be the same, my legs are shorter, so it's best to get a smaller size for me.
The spokes on my new alloy DT Swiss wheels keep getting loose; the LBS gets them tight, but after 100km they get loose again, making this infuriating metallic click. Is there any permanent solution? Thanks! #askgcntech
I have just switched from 25mm to 28mm tires (both tubeless). I love the extra comfort by the way. My question: I carry a 25mm optimized lightweight butyl tube as a bailout option, will the tube burst in the larger diameter tire? Or am I worrying for nothing?
Remember to use #askgcntech ... That's a great question 🙌
@@gcntech I don't know how. When I click on the link, I get a whole lot of thumbnails for videos, but I can't see anywhere to type a question...
@@stuartfreedman6854 you don't need to click the link, just type #askgcntech at the start of your question.
Hot wax your chains, run two or three in rotation so that they'll last as long as your cassette and chainrings. Never run new chain with worn out chainrings or cassette. I prefer YBN and Wipperman chains.
10:04 I’d say functional weight is fine but please don’t purposely get a heavy bike (2.2kg alloy wheels etc.).
If you want to get fitter, do intervals and structured workouts. 😊
#askgcntech I am looking to upgrade my bike to hydraulic disc brakes, but I've heard that storing bikes with hydraulics vertically can create problems. I normally keep my bike horizontal, but when I take the train to other cities, I have to store my bike vertically. Do I need to do anything special before/after traveling to ensure nothing goes wrong?
#askgcntech Hi. I was wondering if the new sram red lower pulley wheel is like the mtb sram xx one where the wheel can move independent to the body on bearings? Thanks
Got to agree…… buy the best bike you can afford, you’ll enjoy it more, and more biking means a fitter rider!
I watched Ollie's video on chain measuring, which was really interesting and I didn't know many things, even though I've been cycling for decades. But I have a question. I use a Park Tool CC-4 and have a 12 speed SRAM flattop chain. When I measure from the flat side, the CC-4 shows that the chain is still OK, but when I measure from inside the chain, it shows that the chain already has 0.5% wear. What is the correct way to measure a 12-speed flattop chain? #askgcntech
#askgcntech hello, I am in the midst of building my first road bike and have most of the components except the group set. I decided to get an older frame model from 2014 and was wondering if it would be able to handle a modern mechanical group?
Whatever frame allows for the most bottles or storage.
No to the riding a heavy bike for extra training. You just won't get on it as much. Yes, a kilo or so is not what we are talking about, but a Eurobike is just junk and you won't bother riding it. Cutting a steerer? Ask Alex - I seem to remember that it doesn't always go to plan.
I've cut carbon steerer tubes on my bikes without any drama. I use a hacksaw with a new fine toothed blade, wrap the steerer tube with masking tape where it needs cutting, mark a cut line on the tape, tighten two zip ties around the cut line, one above it the other below it to act as a guide, clamp the steerer in my workmate, I wear a decorator's dust mask and do the sawing outside in the back garden. Don't rush, let the blade do the work. Go over the edges of the cut steerer with fine sandpaper, wipe it all down with damp kitchen roll and the jobs a good 'un. Optional final step - "paint" the cut end of the steerer with nail varnish (clear or black suggested).
6:34 Cut a piece of pool noodle and put it over your handlebars underneath the brake lever so that it can't be depressed accidentally. Secure the whole assembly with a couple zip ties.
I was between two frame sizes for my giant defy and cause of my long legs was recommended to take the larger one (to be more comfortable)...still have some spacers at the front once I feel fitter and want to get more aero...still I'm not quite sure about some other specs, with the larger frame came wider handlebars and longer cranks, are there any rules or recommendations how to pick the right size for those details?
From my impression of the first rides, the wider handlebar feels a little bit different to what I'm used to (even though it is just 2cm), not bad, but I'm thinking about what advantages or disadvantages wider or narrower handlebars might have....
The rule of 105% stated that the rim must be at least 105% wider than the tyre to gain aerodynamic advantage. Some wheelsets like Roval Rapide CLX II and Reserve 40/44 has a wider external rim width at the front and narrower at the rear. Which tyre cobination is faster, using a wider tyre at the front and a narrower tyre at the back following the rule, or using equally wide tyres at both wheels, which have lower rolling resistance but too wide for the rear? #askgcntech
Tubeless vs. inner tubes: Bicyclerollingresistance has the Conti GP5000 STR 25 (tubeless) with 8.4 W and the GP5000 25 (with butyl) with 10 W. Subtract 1.5 to 2 W with latex or TPU tubes. Latex is as plush as tubeless, but less mess, less fuss. Weight difference is 50 g/tire (see Conti). Take the lightweight TPUs and you are about 130 g down in rotating weight compared to tubeless. And I had exactly one flat tire in the last 12.000 km. So why tubeless? It’s worse in every respect.
Tubless is a no go for road, and a must for gravel/mtg. TPU sounds better too.
#askgcntech have just switched from 25mm to 28mm tires (both tubeless). I love the extra comfort by the way. My question: I carry a 25mm optimized lightweight butyl tube as a bailout option, will the tube burst in the larger diameter tire? Or am I worrying for nothing?
You are worrying for nothing. I've been riding 28mm tyres with 21-25mm inner tubes for two years, and never had one of the latter exploded. And I never had a flat either. Just make sure you don't overinflate and you'll be OK.
@@mvm9407 Good to know mvm. Thanks for the reply...
Hahahaha. I despise 20mm plus chimneys, When I was a newbie rider (been riding less than a year on and off) Had the unfortunate situation of me riding with cheap pedals with no pins and just wearing flipflops, Footwear slipped, Landed my nuts on the top tube, And somehow hit my rib on the protruding steerer tube with my full weight, Flopped on the road, winded and wheezing like a dying cow for almost 5 mins before being able to recover, Didn’t manage to check myself for other wounds cause my damn rib was I think cracked, didn’t get it checked, Still hurts from 9yrs ago today when I’m laughing too hard, Taking a very deep breath and stretching my back a bit too far. And Yes, I laugh at people who gets winded cause I know the feeling of getting the wind taken out of you and it’s not fun.
P.S.: Had x rays here and there and there’s no crack or break on my rib. That bastard of a steerer tube hit the space between two ribs tho, but it still hurt that much, Still have a mark for it. 😭🤣
#askgcntech Dear ollie and ashton! I plan a 6 day road trip with a friend. I have a gravel bike and currently schwalbe g-one rs 40mm on my carbon rims. I also have gp5000 32mm lying around which I'm considering putting on for only this road trip. However I'm too lazy to swap them since they're tubeless setup. Do i have a huge disadvantage over 600km road with my 40m? Thanks love you
#askgcntech - Hi is a SRAM rival Rear Derailleur 1x11-Speed Long Cage interchangeable with a 1 x11 SRAM Apex long cage or even a SRAM GX 1x11 long cage ?
#askgcntech Hi, I have been hot melt waxing my chains for about 6 months now and have wanted to change the brand of wax I use from some off brand amazon one (specialized for cycling) to silca super secret. How would I go about doing this as I do not want to replace my chain as it is still not worn down. Is there a way of decontaminating all the old wax (that is not silca super secret) off my chain and re-waxing with silca super secret? (I am assuming here that you do not want to mix two different wax brands together) Thanks.
9:39 if you wanted to increase the resistance then weight doesn't matter that much. instead i think upright bicycle would help because of aerodynamic drag and it would also be very comfortable.
For my short distance city cycling, I actually bought the heaviest dutch bike available to maximise on the power needed through higher weight and wind resistance.
@@SrFederico yeah same i also use these bikes sometimes for training.
@@SrFederico one thing i love about these bikes is they are usually very low maintenance and cheap so i seem to get more training done for lower cost and also they are nice as a backup bike in case your main bike has an issue.
@@nebulous962 I wouldn’t call my 25 kg dutch bike a replacement for the 8 kg race bike ;-) But lately I did a 50 km bike tour with it, including some hills, and my legs hurt like I can hardly achieve it with the race bike.
@@SrFederico yeah truu haha. :D
#askGCNtech My bottle of chain drip wax froze for a few days while in my garage over the winter (I live in Canada). There is a warning on the bottle to not let it freeze. Is it still OK to use? And this got me to thinking, what about the wax on my chain when my bike is stored in my garage or shed over the winter? If the wax in the bottle shouldn't be frozen, what about the wax on our chains? Should we be dewaxing our chains when storing them for winter? I realize that this question isn't seasonable anymore, but I've been asking it for many weeks, hoping it will get onto to the show soon.
An educated guess here, drip wax uses a solvent, probably water, as the carrier for the wax, once you've dripped the lube on the chain the water will evaporate leaving the wax behind so no water to freeze in winter. The manufacturer of the drip wax has put the "do not let it freeze" warning on the bottle for a reason, it's likely freezing adversely affects the properties of the lube.
#askgcntech I've just made the switch to hot melt wax on my summer bike. Do I need to remove the chain each time I wash my bike?thanks in advance!
Provided you're not using a pressure washer, no need to remove the chain, wax is water repellent and a few splashes won't matter. If it has got particularly wet, to prevent surface rust appearing, dry it off with an old towel like you would do after coming back from a wet ride.
#askgcntech Hi Gents: in the 2 years I've been waxing my chain I've had 4 or 5 quicklinks break under load while I'm riding. In every instance, both pins separate from their respective plates white the side that was locked into the opposing plate stays locked in. Thankfully no injuries resulted and i always carry spares now. But it seems like they shouldn't be that unreliable. All the ones that broke were fairly new -- less than 200 miles and only connected once or twice. I've been using YBN quick links on alternating YBN chains. I have friends who use these that have never had one break. What are your speculations of why this is happening? How much power does it normally take to break the pin of a quicklink? Are there more reliable alternatives? Thanks for any advice.
Should I be concerned riding my expensive carbon wheels off-road (rocky, rooty single track)? They come from a reputable brand and their top tier gravel wheelset. I want to protect my investment but also just have fun! Would using a cheaper narrow rim width aluminum wheelset be better than the expensive carbon gravel one?
I’d lean more towards a spare set of good quality aluminum rims, suitable for a more off-road tire. Gravel oriented setups are typically for cinder and gravel, which tend to be a bit smoother than a rooty single track.
A spare set of rims will allow you to dial in your tire choices on both sets. Choose your ride, select the appropriate wheel set, and go!
As a frame of reference, I go the other way (gravel/road). My gravel tires are ideal for gravel but they pretty much suck on the road. My road tires are awesome, except in gravel where they’ve chucked a few too many frights into me on fast downhill turns. Tires are easily the most effective way to optimize a bike for its environment.
You should be be fine with carbon wheels 🙌 Check the official rating and be on the look out for damage - carbon wheels are very popular in xc racing and that lot are riding hard!
@@gcntech this might be a silly question, but how are wheels rated and where do you typically find that information.
I generally use a Shimano chain, and the instructions say that the quick link should be discarded each time it is removed. If I want to switch to wax then that means I have to buy a new quick link each time I rewax. Are the Shimano guidelines overly conservative or should I follow them closely? If not how many times can I reuse the Shimano quick link?
You can buy a KMC multi-use link. These sometimes come in a two pack, which allows you to replace the link when the plates start to click-in a little too easily. KMC links work with Shimano chains (and rumour has it that KMC manufactures Shimano chains anyway).
Many thousands of chain waxers use "single use" quick links many times without issue and I count myself among them. Just make sure the two halves of the quick link are properly engaged. How many times ? So long as you hear a click when you reconnect the link you should be ok. Toss it when the chain has reached recommended wear limit (0.5% for 11 speed), your new chain will come with a new quick link. If you want peace of mind, the Wippermann Connex chain link is held as the best quick link.
@gcntech when do you see a reason for a non pro to buy a custom geometry frame?
I can imagine it's applicable for those who are too short for even an American Size 44.
#askgcntech I'm a biological male, and when I go down onto the drops it feels like my horizontal saddle is squeezing "things", and applying pressure between the leisure centre and the waste disposal unit. Should I tilt my saddle forward slightly? The bike was made to measure so not a fit issue. Thanks.
You mean tilt the nose of the saddle down a little. Yes, experiment and see what works. When making any adjustments (eg saddle tilt, fore/aft position/seat height) only change one thing at a time so you know what has made things better or worse. Be aware that altering saddle tilt might also affect the height of the saddle so check this after altering the tilt.
#askgcntech Hi Alex & Ollie, I have a 2014 Trek Madone (carbon, DI2) with compact (50/34) chain rings and an 11 Speed 11-28 cassette. I do a lot of road cycling each year but it's flat where I live. I've signed up to do the Cabot Trail (Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada) in a few months. The Cabot trail has some very steep and long climbs!
Question 1: what sort of training do you suggest for me to improve my climbing skills.
Question 2: Should I change the above set up for this ride?
Thank you.
Answer 1: climb lots of hills. Don't labour in too high a gear, use your low gears as soon as you start to slow down as you climb. Lose unnecessary weight from the bike. Do you wear a big heavy watch when riding ? Take it off and leave it in the car. Do you carry a load of house keys ? Take off the front door key and put this in a safe pocket. Answer 2: Yes. Put an 11-32 or 11-34 cassette on your bike if your rear derailleur can accommodate it (have a look at Shimano's rear derailleur and cassette teeth compatibility guide). You'll also have to fit a longer chain if you put a bigger cassette on.
Fries or chips with your XL Canyon and precision?
Have you got mash?
@@gcntech I will get it my fault!
#askgcntech Hi Alex and Ollie,
How can I find out how reliable a pressure gauge on a floor pump is before buying it? I just found out that my cheap floor pump gives a value of 8,5 bar when the pressure actually is only 5 bar. Found this out by removing the pressure gauge and connected it to a pneumatic system in a work shop with a well known brand pressure gauge... Thanks
You could pump up a tire in the store then check it with a calibrated gauge. The problem is that most gauges aren’t calibrated. They’re simply manufactured to a certain tolerance (which isn’t very tight on mass produced gauges).
Another strategy is to purchase a pump whose gauge can be replaced using a standard fitting. Then buy and install a reference level gauge from a scientific instrument or motor sports racing supply store.
A fun fact to consider is that bourdon tube-based gauges are most accurate between 1/3 and 2/3 of their sweep range. This is why a road bike pump usually has a gauge that runs up to 200 psig (best accuracy would be between ~65 to ~130 psig, which more or less brackets most road bike tire pressures). A trail rider would be better served by a gauge whose range is in the order of 120 psig.
Another fun fact has to do with something called overshoot. This is particular to pressure gauges more than pump gauges. People will pump their tires to pump pressure, then double check with a handheld gauge. When the sudden inrush of pressure into a handheld gauge pushes the needle slightly higher than the actual pressure in the tire. It overshoots and remains high because of internal friction in the bourdon tube.
This is why a high quality handheld gauge will be lockable and have a bleed button. The proper technique is to inflate the tire to the desired pressure +5-10% using a pump. Then lock the handheld gauge into place and bleed the pressure down to the desired psi using the bleed button. Since there’s no sudden in rush of air, overshoot doesn’t occur.
Quality automotive racing gauges (I have a Longacre gauge that cost about $200 when I bought it 20 years ago) have this feature along with being filled with a viscous fluid such as oil (another feature to prevent overshoot). Much harder to find bike tire gauges with these features, even though they’re often just as expensive. Bling counts way more in cycling than it does in serious motor sports.
Floor pump gauges will get you in the ball park. I use a Topeak Smartgauge D2 digital pressure gauge. You can though just experiment with different pressures as shown on your floor pump's gauge and when you find a pressure you're happy with then always inflate your tyres to that figure. You could then borrow your mate's digital gauge to see what pressure it reads, just out of curiosity.
@@paulgrimshaw8334 very helpful! I have a handheld guide for this purpose but no one ever told me about this procedure. Perfect.
Watts v Kgs: agree. After 6yrs of regular riding with annual KMs increasing and now more FTP watts, definitely greater value than the dogs b***s all singing, all dancing super-performance, high-spec bike
How do you know when your disc pads need replacing or it's the spring between the pads loosing it's strength that's maybe causing the rubbing noise. #askgcntech
If it's the sound of brushing metal with every revolution, it's an out-of-true rotor. Each disc brake pad has a minimum compound thickness, so once it has reached or gone past that, time for new pads.
@@yonglingng5640 That's not always the case. I replaced the pads (after much time trying to fix the old pads) and the problem was fixed immediately.
You should replace your disc brake pads when there's 1mm or less of pad material left on the backing plate. The pads will occasionally rub on the rotors from time to time, getting the pads splashed seems to do this until they dry off, a flexy bike frame may cause the pads to rub when putting power down out of the saddle too. Constant rubbing sounds like the rotor has warped. It's possible to true a warped or slightly bent rotor. I use an adjustable spanner/wrench with the jaws set just wide enough to slide onto the rotor, then lever the adjustable spanner/wrench to correct the part that's out of true.
You can make a small bike bigger ,but you can’t make a big bike smaller!
#askgcntech any tips on putting your bike in a car without a bike rack. How to prevent damage.
Carefully, disc side up. If the front wheel is removed, use a pad block in the caliper.
If you have a wagon/estate, it’s sometimes possible to get the bike in an upright position with the front wheel removed and the seat post lowered or removed. In that case, cut a 2x6 board slightly narrower than the passenger compartment and fasten a fork or through axle fitting to the board. Luggage can be carefully placed on either side of the upright frame to steady things.
#askgcntech Hi guys! I wax my chains for almost half a year now. I really like it, but I had a problem with a chain: at the end of the chain the last inner link, the roller fell out after some time… I couldn’t get it back and shortening was not an option (then chain would be to short)… how do I fix this and how do I prevent this?
Thanks!
I’ve had this happen. The link plates have an inner flare, which makes it hard to get the roller back in. Doubly so with wax gunking things up.
Two ways to get the roller in… brute force and patience, which is fine as long as you don’t bend an end plate or score the roller OR dip the free end of the waxed chain into boiling water to remove of soften the wax. The latter method will free things up enough to swing the end plates, insert the roller on the flat of one end plate, and use minimal effort to bring the remaining end plate into proper position.
@@paulgrimshaw8334don’t hang the last link on the swisher tool, put the tool through the last but one link and the unsecured roller wont fall out when you swish!
@@andywalford7544That’s certainly a way of doing it. I just put string through the last roller, capturing the end plates and pin together with a firm knot.
I also don’t string the chain on a piece of bent wire… my waxing pot is wide and deep enough for the chain to collapse and become fully submerged. When pulled out just before the wax starts to congeal, I find this method retains just the right amount of wax. A heavily folded chain holds too much wax in each bend adding it a pita to work-in and hang on the bike.
The other handy thing about putting string thru the last roller is that it keeps it relatively clear for the removable link. Removing the string dislodges any wax buildup.
That’s just one way of doing it. There are many other ways just as effective.
I'm struggling with increasing my average speed yes i ride with guys that are much faster than me but only at best average 27km .
i try to do a fair amount of elevation to km riding ,10km 100m and riding with guys the elevation is less per 10km iv been riding for 8 months on road bike and 2 years on mtb yes i mix it up in the week with both ,lately more road bike ,most of the guys i ride with average between 32km and 38km , I'm 1,95 m and 100kg and road bike is Scott speedster 20 i average +- 5 rides +- 9 hours ,+- 210km a week could you please give me advice
What is your current average speed over your last 5-10 rides? How is this figure derived… computer, smart phone etc.? Is that a continuous average or a “moving average”? Over how many kilometres? What is typically your min/max speeds on those rides?
I read your post but there’s often a lot of variables behind the numbers that might affect an answer.
Have I been saying "route" wrong all this time?
Like, is it a roeter and not a router handling my network traffic?
10:00, an ebike will allow you to ride even further for the same effort.
No E-bike will get you 150km range with a 28-30km/h avr.
And when you’re going 28-30 kmh on an e-bike, the total power for bike and rider is about 150w. Split equally, that’s 75w to the rider.
You’ll never get that fit when your rides are at a 75w effort. Not compared to a traditional rider going the same speed… or faster at higher wattage on a pedal bike.
@@paulgrimshaw8334 I said for the same effort, not half effort, just as Alex noted you'd be putting out the same effort whether on a heavy bike or light bike.
@@larrylem3582 It’s almost* impossible to go at the same effort. The non assisted cyclist would have to go so slow that it wouldn’t even count as an honest effort on a road bike. 75w on a road bike is a dawdle.
Edit: Just ran the numbers on Steve Gribble’s online calculator, “The Computational Cyclist”. A 180 lb person on a 22.5 lb bike would travel just 13.7 mph/22 kph on level ground and still air with a 75w effort.
Ok, that may sound like a big rider and heavy bike (not that weight makes a great deal of difference because the main resistance is aero not mass). So a 150 lb rider on a 17 lb bike pedalled at 75 watts would travel at 14.2 mph/22.9 kmh.
That’s steady-state. No stop signs, lights, or traffic to avoid. If you added starts and stops and momentary reductions in speed typical of road riding, inertia losses would apply. The human powered cyclist would expend significantly more energy going up in speed because they would need to apply wattage for the entire mass of the system (bike and rider). This would drive their average speed even lower in order to maintain a 75w an average over the duration of the ride. Table napkin math says that the speed would be sub 20 kph for the unassisted cyclist.
I’m pointing this out to highlight the absurdity of arguing exercise equivalencies when comparing e-bikes and human powers bikes. Making an equivalent argument requires one to compare two wholly different outcomes with the same effort. At a certain point any sense of real effort stops and it’s comparing the physical demands of popping out to the shops with a baguette under an arm… or sucking on a big gulp and listening to a podcast.
10:33 - only at 5w/kg and below though. At 6w/kg, i'd lose the kilo
G's middle name is Freak Accident. 2017 and 2020 Giro anyone?
If u are flexible go for smaller bike frames
Longer stem?
@@gcntech yes! always!
Hydraulic brakes are such a faff
Always go for the larger size, for less toe overlap and better handling. You can always put a shorter stem, but you cant move the steering axis forward.
Road tubeless sucks. Just use best clinchers like Michelin power cup with tpu tubes. Lighter and better then stupid road tubeless
Making smaller bike bigger is the biggest mistake ever. Yes, it will fit you, but it will handle like sh***t
Why aren't bicycle chains made out of stainless steel?
It’s probably because stainless steel is susceptible to galling, which is when two sliding surfaces lose integrity and start to cold weld together. The bond isn’t as strong as actual welding but can be quite problematic. You can experience this effect with stainless steel nuts and bolts. As the friction increases, the nuts and bolts fuse together at the threads (where most of the friction and load occurs)
A bike chain does experience a lot of sliding friction between the pins and the end plates. This friction occurs under load.
Quick reminder: when stuck "between" sizes, pick more available and spare another for somebody who doesn't have a luxury of extra choice.
🤣
@ThisHandleIsAlreadyTaken839 thinking of someone else is funny to you???
Using hookless wheels/rims is BS… just the industry forcing a new dangerous technology onto the cycling public. TLR tires may be the latest and greatest tire technology for a price…another ploy by the cycling industry to extract more dollars from the public. Nothing wrong with using clincher tires and latex tubes! They’ll cost you less than a TLR set up wheel and are much less of a head ache when you get a slashed tire and are stranded on the side of the road because you don’t have the tools on hand necessary to repair the the tire. Just more cycling industry BS!!
How tall are you Ollie ??? Comparing my issues which are the same !!! I am 183 cm and think my VITUS in size L could do with being an XL !!!