Thanks Mark, great tips presented as they should be: clear and concise without going off-subject. Much appreciated by a very average enthusiast. Subscribed.
Mark, ISO is only relevant to exposure in that it may alter the aperture and/or shutter speed at which someone shoots. It is very rare (i.e. Nikon Z9 at ISO 500) that it makes the photosites more sensitive to light. It is simply post-processing amplification of gain (signal and noise). Joe Edelman recently posted a blog on the history of the misconception or the exposure triangle and it's origins on his blog page. Otherwise, loved the content and thanks for the post. Nice job. One last thing: Not that you would see this in Africa, but atmospheric conditions can be created inside your long lens hood in cold weather - especially when shooting after leaving the car etc. The air inside the hood can create it's own heat haze and reversing the hood in those conditions can essentially eliminate it.
Thanks so much for the response and thanks for the info on ISO. I may have used the wrong choice of words, changing the use of ISO into more of a post-processing amplification of gain would be a better way to explain it than stating that ISO makes the sensor more sensitive to light. Thanks for the explanation of how cold can affect the lens, that’s only something I’ve experienced shooting landscapes at high altitudes here in Africa.
@@MarkDumbleton Truly loved yoru shots and the video. I thought you were spot on for the other 9 points. Great job by you. As for the ISO thing, as you may know, there are several sites including PhotonstoPhotos and ISO-Invariant sensors that repeat this and for scenes of high DR point out it is better to not blow out the highlights, and that raising the shadows will produce the same noise levels (or nearly so) whether shooting at ISO 100 or ISO 1600 in many mirrorless duel gain sensors. I have only been in photography for a few years, and love wildlife shooting, but as you know, there are many things repeated by folks that aren't exactly correct. Again, this wasn't a trolling thing, just striving to change the thinking from film to digital - if possible. Again, absolutely loved your video and have pointed several people starting out to it. Appreciate the feedback.
Great overview, funnily enough, IS is hardly ever turned on, on my Canon 600F4 V2, I get sharp images without it. Just got the R5 and getting more into video, so may have to utilise it more...
Thanks Mark.... one thing I am trying to learn about is sharpening...... see you say if going into PS from LR don't sharpen till all is done. I just don't know if high pass is any better than LR> Would love your input on this and sharpening.
Hi Carol, thanks for the comment. I’m planning a video soon about sharpening, and will address your question in more detail. But essentially, I never sharpen until the end of my edits. I haven’t really used high pass with good results, and find the sharpening in Lightroom to be better. There are some Photoshop techniques I’ll chat about in that new video 😊
Another great video Mark! Overall I would say I'm happy with my sharpness. I do get the occasional bit of motion blur cause I'm shooting with a non IS prime lens. The Canon EF400mm f5.6L USM. It's an oldie but goodie and a very underrated lens. I do use a Badger bean bag though, so I think it's mainly when I shoot hand-held. My keeper rate has definitely improved after I switched to mirrorless, the eye tracking along with the IBIS certainly helps. Quick question, does it matter which eye you focus on? I mostly shoot predator portraits on f5.6 or 6.3
To answer your question about which eye to focus on, I would say for me, I would always focus on the eye closest to camera. As a viewer you’ll generally look at the closer eye first, and that should be sharpest or in focus. I guess it all depends, but a rule of thumb would be to focus on the closest eye.
@@MarkDumbleton Indeed, thanks. Can,t wait to start using it. Doing the TK web sharpening at the moment. The RF800 f11 in low light pushes up the ISO so high, it becomes un usable to be honest. So for me, that is one thing that compromises the sharpness of my images. Waiting for the 200 800 to become available. Holding thumbs it would be better. Cheers, following and enjoying your content.
Which mistake do you think contributes to your photos not being sharp? I would love to hear from you :)
When I first started with BIF and the Z8 last month Most were blurred , but then I tried 1/3200 S and BAM all in Focus
Excellent tips, particularly in regard to using higher ISOs to enable higher shutter speeds…it took me years to figure that out!
Thanks so much for watching! Don’t be scared of high ISOS 😊
Thanks Mark, great tips presented as they should be: clear and concise without going off-subject. Much appreciated by a very average enthusiast. Subscribed.
Thanks so much for the sub, and I really appreciate the feedback on the delivery of the information 😊
Great video with some amazing tips Mark. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks so much for watching Kobus! Appreciate the support!
Another fantastic video, thank you Mark. The amount of knowledge you share is invaluable 🙏🏻
I really appreciate that a lot! Plenty more to come soon 😊
Great Video Mark Enjoyed it immensily
Thanks so much Peter! Appreciate the message.
Mark, ISO is only relevant to exposure in that it may alter the aperture and/or shutter speed at which someone shoots. It is very rare (i.e. Nikon Z9 at ISO 500) that it makes the photosites more sensitive to light. It is simply post-processing amplification of gain (signal and noise). Joe Edelman recently posted a blog on the history of the misconception or the exposure triangle and it's origins on his blog page. Otherwise, loved the content and thanks for the post. Nice job. One last thing: Not that you would see this in Africa, but atmospheric conditions can be created inside your long lens hood in cold weather - especially when shooting after leaving the car etc. The air inside the hood can create it's own heat haze and reversing the hood in those conditions can essentially eliminate it.
Thanks so much for the response and thanks for the info on ISO. I may have used the wrong choice of words, changing the use of ISO into more of a post-processing amplification of gain would be a better way to explain it than stating that ISO makes the sensor more sensitive to light. Thanks for the explanation of how cold can affect the lens, that’s only something I’ve experienced shooting landscapes at high altitudes here in Africa.
@@MarkDumbleton Truly loved yoru shots and the video. I thought you were spot on for the other 9 points. Great job by you. As for the ISO thing, as you may know, there are several sites including PhotonstoPhotos and ISO-Invariant sensors that repeat this and for scenes of high DR point out it is better to not blow out the highlights, and that raising the shadows will produce the same noise levels (or nearly so) whether shooting at ISO 100 or ISO 1600 in many mirrorless duel gain sensors. I have only been in photography for a few years, and love wildlife shooting, but as you know, there are many things repeated by folks that aren't exactly correct. Again, this wasn't a trolling thing, just striving to change the thinking from film to digital - if possible. Again, absolutely loved your video and have pointed several people starting out to it. Appreciate the feedback.
Fantastic tips, Mark. I think I’m a slow shutter guy. Back outside to practice.
Thanks so much for watching 😊 enjoy the practicing!
Thanks!
My pleasure, thanks for watching.
Great overview, funnily enough, IS is hardly ever turned on, on my Canon 600F4 V2, I get sharp images without it. Just got the R5 and getting more into video, so may have to utilise it more...
Thanks for the comment. VR definitely helps a lot for video. Thanks so much for watching :)
Cheers so much will try them out on my mobile phone 😊❤
Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Thanks Mark.... one thing I am trying to learn about is sharpening...... see you say if going into PS from LR don't sharpen till all is done. I just don't know if high pass is any better than LR> Would love your input on this and sharpening.
Hi Carol, thanks for the comment. I’m planning a video soon about sharpening, and will address your question in more detail. But essentially, I never sharpen until the end of my edits. I haven’t really used high pass with good results, and find the sharpening in Lightroom to be better. There are some Photoshop techniques I’ll chat about in that new video 😊
Thanks Mark. I am really looking forward to seeing your video.@@MarkDumbleton
Another great video Mark!
Overall I would say I'm happy with my sharpness. I do get the occasional bit of motion blur cause I'm shooting with a non IS prime lens. The Canon EF400mm f5.6L USM. It's an oldie but goodie and a very underrated lens. I do use a Badger bean bag though, so I think it's mainly when I shoot hand-held.
My keeper rate has definitely improved after I switched to mirrorless, the eye tracking along with the IBIS certainly helps.
Quick question, does it matter which eye you focus on? I mostly shoot predator portraits on f5.6 or 6.3
Thanks Jackie! That 400 5.6 is a great lens, I owned that back in the day when I still shot Canon. Excellent quality and nice and light.
To answer your question about which eye to focus on, I would say for me, I would always focus on the eye closest to camera. As a viewer you’ll generally look at the closer eye first, and that should be sharpest or in focus. I guess it all depends, but a rule of thumb would be to focus on the closest eye.
Sensational photos.
Thanks so much! Thanks for watching!
Is focus a priority when photographing things that eat you 😮
Haha good point 😂 staying alive and not getting eaten is the number 1!
Focus on not being eaten! 😂😂😂
😂
I think he didn't get the point yet😂, he must be thinking that why they are not answering my question...
I’d rather be eaten than have blurry photos
Invalid promo code Mark. Well done on the video, informative, thanks.
Thanks so much for the comment! Let me check the code quickly!
It’s working now 😊
@@MarkDumbleton Indeed, thanks. Can,t wait to start using it. Doing the TK web sharpening at the moment. The RF800 f11 in low light pushes up the ISO so high, it becomes un usable to be honest. So for me, that is one thing that compromises the sharpness of my images. Waiting for the 200 800 to become available. Holding thumbs it would be better. Cheers, following and enjoying your content.
@@MarkDumbleton looks like I missed the cut off for the Promo. Bummer 😏
@@jackieboshoff2013 I worked fine for me just now?