I so much enjoy your videos because you are original thinkers and that thinking is outside the box. Although I subscribe to a lot of sailing channels, there is nothing I know of out there quite like your channel. I hope you get more exposure and subscribers.
Thanks Russ. Pleased to be able to say that we are seeing our best growth yet in all the TH-cam stats at the moment. Soon we will be able to take over the world 🤣🤣
Mizzen masthead more sticking back is my guess in order for teh topping lift to clear the head of the sail With the chainplates, it might be an idea to tension the dyneema before knotting as that would take out the construction slack from teh splicing Following with interest as something similar might work for me if I need to change my 51yr old stainless 'hairpin' chainplates
Jane found a photo that I was able zoom in enough to see that you are right about the mizzen mast head. Good idea about the constructional stretch out of the shackle. Thinking about it I'm a bit surprised that the slackline site I got them from didn't do that, maybe because they were using much smaller diameter line th-cam.com/video/jU_mmdbQeCQ/w-d-xo.html
Not rounded the FR4 backing plate yet as when we coat the inside of the mushrooms we get some epoxy running down. Once we have finished with the coating of the mushrooms we will be rounding them nicely.
Hi Andy, We are taking a multi-layered approach. The mushroom and fabric sleeve (that also protects the lashing from chafe and UV) should keep large volume of water from waves out (and especially importantly grit that would cut the dyneema). So then we are really just looking at rain/spray that runs down the shroud past the top of the fabric sleeve. We hope to stop most of that using some sealant around the dyneema chainplate loop as it emerges from the mushroom. Then below decks we are going to have a drip tray/container that will catch any water that does make it through, we can remove and drain that as needed. We don't yet know how much water will get through. This is why we have drilled a larger hole through the deck and filled it with thickened epoxy. When we drill the holes for the actual chainplate loop there is no polyester resin, no timber etc exposed so water shouldn't do any damage or spread anywhere else.
You probably have, but I was thinking: Could you epoxy the Dyneema chainplates once they are in final position? This would seal up the entirety. Downside is that it's harder to get them out - should this be required. However, I imagine drilling them out would not be too much extra work. The upside, as I see it is: - No (potential) holes for water coming in at rough seas, - Plus, extra strengthening of the Chainplates, - Further reinforcement of the "knot" under deck. th-cam.com/video/Bca5_uyH9E4/w-d-xo.html here at around min 7:20, Steve Yrvind talks about epoxied ropes, and how he uses them. Great channel, if you want some feedback on how to improve some youtuby-things - ill gladly throw in my 2cents. Keep up the good work, cheers!
Hi There are some ready made fairlead tube , cheaper plastic , Scheafer, or expensive SS ones by Rupp Marine. The same one you could put a piece of tube over the small mushroom end that would extend up the shroud as far as you like and seal the water out everywhere except the top of the tube. And there's solutions for that too. DM for more clarification. Cheers Warren (warp21drive)
Hi , the SS unit could be bolted in directly to the deck in 1/2 hr per. The smooth SS will not chafe the dyneema, you can easily slip a piece of tube over the mushroom end to seal it off From water ingress and the tube can be as high as you like to keep water and dirt out. The plastic ones could be installed in and provide a nice smooth interior as above , same method for a tube to seal it. You have a lot of fairing to get a smooth outlet from the wood mushroom set up , and it's wood , that will rot sooner or later no matter how much epoxy you soak it in. Any time you can use ready made items you save so much time and effort and you can repeat so much more easily . I think it's a false ecomony to make everything yourself. Cheers Warren
Your tea was ready throughout the video.
I so much enjoy your videos because you are original thinkers and that thinking is outside the box. Although I subscribe to a lot of sailing channels, there is nothing I know of out there quite like your channel. I hope you get more exposure and subscribers.
Thanks Russ. Pleased to be able to say that we are seeing our best growth yet in all the TH-cam stats at the moment.
Soon we will be able to take over the world 🤣🤣
Mizzen masthead more sticking back is my guess in order for teh topping lift to clear the head of the sail
With the chainplates, it might be an idea to tension the dyneema before knotting as that would take out the construction slack from teh splicing
Following with interest as something similar might work for me if I need to change my 51yr old stainless 'hairpin' chainplates
Jane found a photo that I was able zoom in enough to see that you are right about the mizzen mast head.
Good idea about the constructional stretch out of the shackle. Thinking about it I'm a bit surprised that the slackline site I got them from didn't do that, maybe because they were using much smaller diameter line th-cam.com/video/jU_mmdbQeCQ/w-d-xo.html
Wow am I the first viewer? Cheers friends! Did you round over the holes in the FR4 chain plate backing plates? Could not see in the video.
Have we reached a milestone to get first viewer comments 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Boom!!! Second. 😊
Not rounded the FR4 backing plate yet as when we coat the inside of the mushrooms we get some epoxy running down. Once we have finished with the coating of the mushrooms we will be rounding them nicely.
How will you stop water running down the Dyneema and into the sleeve and intimately filling it up and letting it sleep down below?
Hi Andy,
We are taking a multi-layered approach.
The mushroom and fabric sleeve (that also protects the lashing from chafe and UV) should keep large volume of water from waves out (and especially importantly grit that would cut the dyneema).
So then we are really just looking at rain/spray that runs down the shroud past the top of the fabric sleeve. We hope to stop most of that using some sealant around the dyneema chainplate loop as it emerges from the mushroom.
Then below decks we are going to have a drip tray/container that will catch any water that does make it through, we can remove and drain that as needed. We don't yet know how much water will get through.
This is why we have drilled a larger hole through the deck and filled it with thickened epoxy. When we drill the holes for the actual chainplate loop there is no polyester resin, no timber etc exposed so water shouldn't do any damage or spread anywhere else.
You probably have, but I was thinking:
Could you epoxy the Dyneema chainplates once they are in final position? This would seal up the entirety. Downside is that it's harder to get them out - should this be required. However, I imagine drilling them out would not be too much extra work.
The upside, as I see it is:
- No (potential) holes for water coming in at rough seas,
- Plus, extra strengthening of the Chainplates,
- Further reinforcement of the "knot" under deck.
th-cam.com/video/Bca5_uyH9E4/w-d-xo.html here at around min 7:20, Steve Yrvind talks about epoxied ropes, and how he uses them.
Great channel, if you want some feedback on how to improve some youtuby-things - ill gladly throw in my 2cents.
Keep up the good work, cheers!
It is a good idea. I suppose the we were wanting to make them easy to replace while we are new to them.
Hi where do you get that fr4?
We got ours from www.aiplastics.com/epoxy-4w-ep-sheet-epoxy-4w-ep-sheet.html
Lots of choice of thickness and any rectangular size you need.
That hose looks like its stretchable
also rode is overpriced shit with price margins that make my loins quake from infuriation
The Vacuum hose? Yep it does stretch, pretty happy with it for light jobs.
We have switched to DJI radio mikes, mostly happy with them.
Hi
There are some ready made fairlead tube , cheaper plastic , Scheafer, or expensive SS ones by Rupp Marine. The same one you could put a piece of tube over the small mushroom end that would extend up the shroud as far as you like and seal the water out everywhere except the top of the tube. And there's solutions for that too.
DM for more clarification.
Cheers Warren (warp21drive)
Like these?
hardware.schaefermarine.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=143_176
Yup that the plastic ones , here are the SS ones which bolt thru the deck
shop.ruppmarine.com/products/fairlead-tube-standard-2-875-each
I'm not quite sure what benefit they would give us.
Hi , the SS unit could be bolted in directly to the deck in 1/2 hr per. The smooth SS will not chafe the dyneema, you can easily slip a piece of tube over the mushroom end to seal it off From water ingress and the tube can be as high as you like to keep water and dirt out.
The plastic ones could be installed in and provide a nice smooth interior as above , same method for a tube to seal it.
You have a lot of fairing to get a smooth outlet from the wood mushroom set up , and it's wood , that will rot sooner or later no matter how much epoxy you soak it in.
Any time you can use ready made items you save so much time and effort and you can repeat so much more easily .
I think it's a false ecomony to make everything yourself.
Cheers Warren
The diameter isn't enough for 2 x 9mm (mizzen) or 2 x 12mm (main mast). Time saving is great but budget saving is also really important to us.