Why did it take me so long to find this video? I unplugged the RVC, not the alternator. I have been looking for a solution for 3 years!!! I have a massive stereo system in my 2007 Chevy Avalanche and installed an aftermarket backup camera. The backup camera turns on whenever the voltage goes below 13 volts and it drives me crazy. The stereo will go into protection mode if volts go below 12.5. This should do wonders. You sir, are awesome!
Love the dd system and kinetic batteries. I have a small 8 inch in my work truck ran off of 2 optima yellow tops. Have a kinetic in my Tahoe as well!!! Haha
When you upgraded your grounds did you pass the new ground wire through the current sensor? Mechman has a document on this because the new thicker ground wire may be bypassing the current sensor causing the charging system not see the accurate load put on it. I'm trying to make a video now regarding this. Great job making people aware!
It is a PWM signal at 5Volts and 128Hz. The computer adjusts the voltage depending on the load. It can go all the way up to 15.5Volts. There's a PDF about it from Chevy online. Most of the stock Chevy alternators default to 13.8 when the 2 wire connector is unplugged. It's annoying as hell because I want a reasonable voltage like 14.4Volts to set my amp gains. The regulation s*** sends my amps in to protect when the bass hits hard because the computer thinks the battery is going dead! Does anyone know a cheap way to externally regulate these things without just leaving them unplugged?? No one seems to make anything for them??
i know this is an old vid but ive been trying to put my 2 cents out there about my issue with the rvc system on my 2016 gmc sierra i was able to fix mine, the issue occurs when you create a ground path that allows current to bypass the factory amp clamp, so when you do your big3 or add a dual battery and you add a ground from the second battery straight to frame your creating a path for your current to flow straight to that battery rather than through the factory amp clamp so you pretty much have to create a ground bottle neck and run all your grounds through that clamp so the truck can see the true current draw ever since i did this with my setup she holds steady at 14.6 hope this helps, ive also created a post on the gm forum and smd forum more in depth
Mechman recommends removing the stock ground thats going through the sensor and run 1 zero gauge through the sensor over to the alternator ground location
The voltage is regulated by the BCM Body Control Module. I have heard that unplugging that electronic amp load sensor works. The only function it serves is fuel savings. The problem is even with just a daily driver it does not maintain sufficient charge in the battery. From my tyests it only maintains battery between 35 and 60%. GM is aware of this issue and could easily issue a reflash for the BCM to fix it. They will never do that because not enough complaints have been filed.
tvandiepen1 I just came across the video researching a related problem, I think. I have a 2018 Chevy Colorado ZR2 and have installed a second battery (AGM deep cycle) and a fridge. My owners manual refers to an Electric Power Management (EPM) that reduces the charge voltage based on temp and state of charge of the main battery. When if thinks the battery is charged the charge voltage drops to 12.5V. Eventually the EPM sensor detects the main battery needs a charge and kicks it back up to 13.7V. Problem is I am not getting a big enough charge to recover the AGN battery. Did you figure out what you needed to do to the ECM to get it to put out a constant charge? I would love to see a constant 14.7V.
off the wall question here, I found water in my cracked left tail light and the bulb was basically submerge, would that drain my battery ? I had been having to charge it every 5 weeks or so and getting a jump
Is 14.9 too much with is Chevy voltage system for an agm deep cycle battery? I too have a small system in my 2010 Silverado and this constant 14.9 voltage, sometimes 15.2 voltage will drive me crazy because I had replaced to this agm deep cycle battery and within 5 months the battery completely went bad all of a sudden. I just changed the alternator with another GM alternator , brand new from the dealership, it it still reads 14.9 volts! Do you have any ideas or do I just need to deal with it? Thanks
Hi there, I just bought a 08 wt with the LS pack. no frills truck (v6). The door chime is real low and the front door speakers come on and off. Mostly off. When they work its fine sounding. I'm trying to figure out if the speakers are bad or the radio. I want better speakers anyways, but just wondered if you had any suggestions. Many have videos of electrical problems usually caused by the bad ground issues, but I don't know. Tonight when turning left the turn sig. was clicking while flashing, then went silent. Still flashing though. For only a few bucks, I was thinking it couldn't hurt to buy a new mega fuse and check the grounds, but looking for suggestions. Thanks
Whats the point of doing this? Are you trying to bypass the “smart alternator” so it will charge your aux batteries? If so under this system can you just wire a switch to one of those wires on the alternator inside the vehicle to essentially “unplug “ it?
i got question I have a 2011 Silverado and in summer when the fan come on the voltage drops when I got it new I did not dealer says its normal what do you think are should I get it checked
my car has a new battery and alternator but when im driving and i stop at a red light my headlights and dash lights go dim and when i push the gas everything gets bright again, but the car feels like it wants to die. why is this?
I was wondering if anyone has come up with a sure fire answer. I have my harness unplugged at the neg cable and its not working. I hear about an external relay, but don't know how to wire it up. This is happening in my 07 NS CrewCab Silverado....I don't have a extreme system, just a few small amps and it dims them every time. Before I knew of RVC I tried the big 3(plus an extra one, I have OCD) and a capacitor. Nothing is going to work until we find out how to trick the PCM
+FireworkOkie well we have been running this like this for 2 years now with no probs it always increases the voltage on demand ov current. but u can just simply call Mechman and get an external regulator and turn the damn thing up. Bassonmyfriend
+tvandiepen1 Ok..ok....I am just stating that it hasn't worked for me. Since posting the first post, I have found 2 solutions....I wasn't saying it didn't work.
I have an '06 and this charging system is royally pissing me off. I replaced the Alternator with a NEW AC Delco, A new Neg Batt Cable and the Big 3 upgrade, my lights STILL blink/pulsate when driving it gets worse when the engine is under a load (gassing it going up hills etc). I don't even have a system! Is your Stereo equipment regulating the voltage? I just want my MF'ing lights to not flash/blink/pulsate. I'm an inch away from selling this thing and getting a Ford.
Greg Huston Did you buy yours brand new? I bought my 06 Denali brand new and it didn't do this until a couple of months ago. It only has 80K miles so I don't wanna sell it but its pissing me off to the point I'm compulsive about finding a fix. I didn't use to mess with electronics at all but I'm damn near a certified electrician after fooling with this sh!t.
basslinin I bought mine used (2 years and 35k ago) . I had the 4x4 encoder and switch go bad and in researching causes I found there is another ground under the drivers side door on the frame, I cleaned up that ground and I still occasionally get the pulsating lights but only under heavy acceleration. I haven't changed the battery yet, it seems like a new battery cures a lot of folks problem.
Hey man can you help me. My 2010 yukon Denali runs at 15.2 to 14.9 all day. 1000whatt system nothing big. Every time it hits the bass my voltage jumps to 16.5 and the amp goes into protection. After a second it comes back on then repeats issue. At idle ut workks great but when reved it spikes. Help me please
Just so you know, the hd models do not have RVC systems. Trucks with 6.0s and 6.6s (2500 and 3500 models) charge normally. Also, if you turn your headlights to the on position instead of auto, the RVC system is disabled. In addition, if you turn your tow haul feature on, RVC is disabled. This system started all the way back in 2005 and affects 1/2 ton silverados, sierras, yukons, tahoes, etc.
Well I have a 2011 Chevy 2500HD with the 6.6 Duramax. With the stock alternator and 2 stock batteries my shit drains quick and lights look like disco show then amps cut off. Bought mechman 320 and 2 xs power batteries. Same damn thing! Truck charges when you first crank it up then stops and will not charge again until down in the 12s. Amps already kicked off and clipping by then. With mechman it charges briefly at 15 volt then stops. So aggravating!!!
no it wont realy work on the stock its not self exciting and you shouldnt have any reason to do it to a stocky but if ur trying to just get more voltage out of it put on an external regulator. bassonmyfriends
tvandiepen1 I know this old but in one of your earlier comments you told a guy it was ok to do it with a stock alternator, I'm curious if I was to unhook mine will it stay at 13.7volts? I have a 09 buick enclave with a 170 amp stock oem alternator, brand new and brand new agm battery with extra one in the back. thank you for any info you can provide.
i also need a fix for this, my system isnt big at all but it some how turns off my amp for a a couple of seconds then back on, im looking for a way to keep my battery as close to 14v as possible when on because i think thats the problem, so far i found this i hope this helps you in finding a solution so i can fix mine though im kinda not sure about this, www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gmt-900-trucks-general-discussion-188/gm-alternator-regulated-charging-control-488787/
the amps are seing the low voltage spike for a few milliseconds and shuts off due to low voltage protect circuit. My amps ar tru rated at 12v and will run all the way down to 8v so they will take the abuse. i do know that when we are at comps i unplug the alt control wires and it will stay at 13.7v and will not differ but we have 3 Kinetik HC2400's also and its on a Mechman 320amp alt. thanks for the link. bassonmyfriends
My 2011 Silverado does the exact same thing it will drop from over 14 to 10-11 when I'm jamming and the amp will cut off till the voltage comes back up after a few seconds and all I have is a 1200 watt amp on 2 10's...most annoying thing ever
Why did it take me so long to find this video? I unplugged the RVC, not the alternator. I have been looking for a solution for 3 years!!! I have a massive stereo system in my 2007 Chevy Avalanche and installed an aftermarket backup camera. The backup camera turns on whenever the voltage goes below 13 volts and it drives me crazy. The stereo will go into protection mode if volts go below 12.5. This should do wonders. You sir, are awesome!
I have a 2007 suburban and did the big 3 you think it would cause a problem didn’t know it had this dumb voltage regulator stuff?? Please help
Love the dd system and kinetic batteries. I have a small 8 inch in my work truck ran off of 2 optima yellow tops. Have a kinetic in my Tahoe as well!!! Haha
When you upgraded your grounds did you pass the new ground wire through the current sensor? Mechman has a document on this because the new thicker ground wire may be bypassing the current sensor causing the charging system not see the accurate load put on it. I'm trying to make a video now regarding this. Great job making people aware!
I am certified look at my beautiful mini badge.
It is a PWM signal at 5Volts and 128Hz. The computer adjusts the voltage depending on the load. It can go all the way up to 15.5Volts. There's a PDF about it from Chevy online.
Most of the stock Chevy alternators default to 13.8 when the 2 wire connector is unplugged.
It's annoying as hell because I want a reasonable voltage like 14.4Volts to set my amp gains. The regulation s*** sends my amps in to protect when the bass hits hard because the computer thinks the battery is going dead!
Does anyone know a cheap way to externally regulate these things without just leaving them unplugged?? No one seems to make anything for them??
i know this is an old vid but ive been trying to put my 2 cents out there about my issue with the rvc system on my 2016 gmc sierra i was able to fix mine, the issue occurs when you create a ground path that allows current to bypass the factory amp clamp, so when you do your big3 or add a dual battery and you add a ground from the second battery straight to frame your creating a path for your current to flow straight to that battery rather than through the factory amp clamp so you pretty much have to create a ground bottle neck and run all your grounds through that clamp so the truck can see the true current draw ever since i did this with my setup she holds steady at 14.6 hope this helps, ive also created a post on the gm forum and smd forum more in depth
Mechman recommends removing the stock ground thats going through the sensor and run 1 zero gauge through the sensor over to the alternator ground location
can you paste a link? need this badly
thanks
The voltage is regulated by the BCM Body Control Module. I have heard that unplugging that electronic amp load sensor works. The only function it serves is fuel savings. The problem is even with just a daily driver it does not maintain sufficient charge in the battery. From my tyests it only maintains battery between 35 and 60%. GM is aware of this issue and could easily issue a reflash for the BCM to fix it. They will never do that because not enough complaints have been filed.
TheIVBO i
can you explain how to "unplug that electronic amp load sensor". thank you
tvandiepen1 I just came across the video researching a related problem, I think. I have a 2018 Chevy Colorado ZR2 and have installed a second battery (AGM deep cycle) and a fridge. My owners manual refers to an Electric Power Management (EPM) that reduces the charge voltage based on temp and state of charge of the main battery. When if thinks the battery is charged the charge voltage drops to 12.5V. Eventually the EPM sensor detects the main battery needs a charge and kicks it back up to 13.7V. Problem is I am not getting a big enough charge to recover the AGN battery.
Did you figure out what you needed to do to the ECM to get it to put out a constant charge? I would love to see a constant 14.7V.
Try running your headlights at all time 🤷🏿♂️ idk but I have a tahoe and it works for me
Is it a big problem if I install the big 3? Just did this big 3 for. Y 2007 suburban and didn’t know it had this voltage regulator stuff???
off the wall question here, I found water in my cracked left tail light and the bulb was basically submerge, would that drain my battery ? I had been having to charge it every 5 weeks or so and getting a jump
Would love to learn what you find on this issue.
Ok your a certified mechanic!!!! Way to reach to the alternator with long sleeves near the belt DUH !!!!!!!!
+BOO HOO There tight sleeves i think im good. Thanks for your concern. O and look up ETA u obviously are ignorant of what it even is thanks.
Is 14.9 too much with is Chevy voltage system for an agm deep cycle battery? I too have a small system in my 2010 Silverado and this constant 14.9 voltage, sometimes 15.2 voltage will drive me crazy because I had replaced to this agm deep cycle battery and within 5 months the battery completely went bad all of a sudden. I just changed the alternator with another GM alternator , brand new from the dealership, it it still reads 14.9 volts! Do you have any ideas or do I just need to deal with it? Thanks
Hi there, I just bought a 08 wt with the LS pack. no frills truck (v6). The door chime is real low and the front door speakers come on and off. Mostly off. When they work its fine sounding. I'm trying to figure out if the speakers are bad or the radio. I want better speakers anyways, but just wondered if you had any suggestions. Many have videos of electrical problems usually caused by the bad ground issues, but I don't know. Tonight when turning left the turn sig. was clicking while flashing, then went silent. Still flashing though. For only a few bucks, I was thinking it couldn't hurt to buy a new mega fuse and check the grounds, but looking for suggestions. Thanks
What if ur running a dual alternator set up? Will the pcm controll the 2nd one not connected to the vehicle at all?
i fixed it if yall want to know how let me know
Did you ground the batteries to the frame in the back?
is it suppose to start at 14.5 while running and then after a hour drops to around 13?
Whats the point of doing this? Are you trying to bypass the “smart alternator” so it will charge your aux batteries? If so under this system can you just wire a switch to one of those wires on the alternator inside the vehicle to essentially “unplug “ it?
i got question I have a 2011 Silverado and in summer when the fan come on the voltage drops when I got it new I did not dealer says its normal what do you think are should I get it checked
my car has a new battery and alternator but when im driving and i stop at a red light my headlights and dash lights go dim and when i push the gas everything gets bright again, but the car feels like it wants to die. why is this?
Did you find a resistor to give the plug at the current sensor? Or the one that goes to the alternator? Thanks
chevy suburban 2014 problem dash dim temperature cage battery gage drop down and up any help
I was wondering if anyone has come up with a sure fire answer. I have my harness unplugged at the neg cable and its not working. I hear about an external relay, but don't know how to wire it up. This is happening in my 07 NS CrewCab Silverado....I don't have a extreme system, just a few small amps and it dims them every time. Before I knew of RVC I tried the big 3(plus an extra one, I have OCD) and a capacitor. Nothing is going to work until we find out how to trick the PCM
+FireworkOkie well we have been running this like this for 2 years now with no probs it always increases the voltage on demand ov current. but u can just simply call Mechman and get an external regulator and turn the damn thing up. Bassonmyfriend
+tvandiepen1 Ok..ok....I am just stating that it hasn't worked for me. Since posting the first post, I have found 2 solutions....I wasn't saying it didn't work.
+FireworkOkie i wasnt mad i was just giving u options u may not have known u can do. its all good. bassonmyfriend
Good deal!!!
I unplugged mine and voltage stays about 14.8 with the mechman elite 250
It would be good to explain what your doing
I have an '06 and this charging system is royally pissing me off. I replaced the Alternator with a NEW AC Delco, A new Neg Batt Cable and the Big 3 upgrade, my lights STILL blink/pulsate when driving it gets worse when the engine is under a load (gassing it going up hills etc). I don't even have a system!
Is your Stereo equipment regulating the voltage? I just want my MF'ing lights to not flash/blink/pulsate. I'm an inch away from selling this thing and getting a Ford.
Greg Huston Did you buy yours brand new? I bought my 06 Denali brand new and it didn't do this until a couple of months ago. It only has 80K miles so I don't wanna sell it but its pissing me off to the point I'm compulsive about finding a fix. I didn't use to mess with electronics at all but I'm damn near a certified electrician after fooling with this sh!t.
basslinin I bought mine used (2 years and 35k ago) . I had the 4x4 encoder and switch go bad and in researching causes I found there is another ground under the drivers side door on the frame, I cleaned up that ground and I still occasionally get the pulsating lights but only under heavy acceleration. I haven't changed the battery yet, it seems like a new battery cures a lot of folks problem.
Fords have the same thing lol
Hey man can you help me. My 2010 yukon Denali runs at 15.2 to 14.9 all day. 1000whatt system nothing big. Every time it hits the bass my voltage jumps to 16.5 and the amp goes into protection. After a second it comes back on then repeats issue. At idle ut workks great but when reved it spikes. Help me please
Corregiste tu problema, yo tambien tengo el mismo problema
I just unplugged the rvc sensor from the harness. Voltage stays at 14.8 at all times now.
kev mar where can you find the sensor
Where is that???
Come on man help us out where did you unplug it from
Did your alternator crap out? Mine did when I did this
Just so you know, the hd models do not have RVC systems. Trucks with 6.0s and 6.6s (2500 and 3500 models) charge normally. Also, if you turn your headlights to the on position instead of auto, the RVC system is disabled. In addition, if you turn your tow haul feature on, RVC is disabled. This system started all the way back in 2005 and affects 1/2 ton silverados, sierras, yukons, tahoes, etc.
Well I have a 2011 Chevy 2500HD with the 6.6 Duramax. With the stock alternator and 2 stock batteries my shit drains quick and lights look like disco show then amps cut off. Bought mechman 320 and 2 xs power batteries. Same damn thing! Truck charges when you first crank it up then stops and will not charge again until down in the 12s. Amps already kicked off and clipping by then. With mechman it charges briefly at 15 volt then stops. So aggravating!!!
jacob p Thank you for the easyhelp u provided
Tow haul yes. But headlights, not mine
Can you do this to a stock alt.?
Are was it the mechman self powering alt.?
no it wont realy work on the stock its not self exciting and you shouldnt have any reason to do it to a stocky but if ur trying to just get more voltage out of it put on an external regulator. bassonmyfriends
tvandiepen1 I know this old but in one of your earlier comments you told a guy it was ok to do it with a stock alternator, I'm curious if I was to unhook mine will it stay at 13.7volts? I have a 09 buick enclave with a 170 amp stock oem alternator, brand new and brand new agm battery with extra one in the back. thank you for any info you can provide.
Btw im running 2 15" 9500s with a crescendo bc 5500.
Have U Figured This out? I'm I need to solve it
Having the same problem on a 2007 Classic Silverado. Has anyone figured this out?? Mine keeps overcharging and boiling the battery.
Hey man let me know the amp clamp mod my impala doses the same shit
im still working with this truck i havent put the big amp in yet so havent made the mod yet but im ceeping you in mind. bassonmyfriend
anyway around this? still nothin for me :/
or turn the headlights on
I feel like I noticed this helped.. please explain. I'm trying to make sense
i also need a fix for this, my system isnt big at all but it some how turns off my amp for a a couple of seconds then back on, im looking for a way to keep my battery as close to 14v as possible when on because i think thats the problem, so far i found this i hope this helps you in finding a solution so i can fix mine though im kinda not sure about this, www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gmt-900-trucks-general-discussion-188/gm-alternator-regulated-charging-control-488787/
the amps are seing the low voltage spike for a few milliseconds and shuts off due to low voltage protect circuit. My amps ar tru rated at 12v and will run all the way down to 8v so they will take the abuse. i do know that when we are at comps i unplug the alt control wires and it will stay at 13.7v and will not differ but we have 3 Kinetik HC2400's also and its on a Mechman 320amp alt. thanks for the link. bassonmyfriends
My 2011 Silverado does the exact same thing it will drop from over 14 to 10-11 when I'm jamming and the amp will cut off till the voltage comes back up after a few seconds and all I have is a 1200 watt amp on 2 10's...most annoying thing ever
Turn the headlights on
press the tow/haul button
Please explain? Thank u sir
I just did the BIG 3 UPGRADE on my 03 sierra got my kit from JP DOWN4SOUND.COM Certified Bass Head