Typically this style pump isn’t intended to be self priming. It requires a steady supply side pressure. This style pump is intended for booster application where it amplifies incoming water pressure. So if you made the supply side hook up to a running water hose you would likely create pressure higher than that of the hose Source: I work on water booster systems for a living.
Actually they typically are self priming. But the first stage is typically fully submerged. Look at how grundfoss coolant pumps are typically used in most c.n.c. machines.
I am a operator and engineer on a 12 inch cutter suction dredger and we have two of these pumps running the jets at the end of the dredging arm. They are self priming assuming there is already a decent amount of water in the casing. Our suction is straight from the sea, with a minute of filling the casings of a external pump when we fire them up we have 318psi at over 4.8m3 a min. Serious bits of kit and always wanted to print a smaller version but I just think the tolerances required are impossible on a 3D printer. Ours need to get ground flat on the impellers.
Yeah, and it also requires stator vanes to de-spin the flow after each stage - otherwise it won't flow into next impeller. The design in a video is just bad...
All the first impellers should be propellers and the las one an impeller. Reasoning: the impeller accelerates the flow outwards thats why the outlet is tangential, the propellers accelerate flow forward thats why the outlet is coaxial to the inlet. Your pump design accelerates every stage towards the outer wall but the inlet of each stage is in the center, the only optimal stage is the last one with the inlet in the center and the tangential outlet. Also consider individual angular velocities for your stages to improve efficiency. Just my two cents I hope this helps, keep up the good work, people like you make complex designs accessible to people who need them :)
Well yeah, but its a diy would it not be better to try multiple axial stages that lead to a centrifugal pump? Multistage Centrifugal Pumps tend to be sensitive to design parameters right? Maybe both can be built and put to the test?
I think most multistage pumps have seals between the stages, otherwise you get flow reversal. For a fluid like water you can easily 3d print labyrinth seals. Cool project, I like the idea.
I seriously recommend using the sharpie trick on supports, you use support interface (for a better finish) and set Z Gap to 0mm (just like when using soluble supports) then you insert a pause script before the layer is printed on the supports, you paint the supports with sharpie and I recommend brushing the support roof interface layer with watered down white glue so the part sticks well to the supports, plastic really really doesn't want to stick to sharpie, so the supports (even with the thin glue) come off like butter in one whole piece! closest thing to soluble supports you can have for cheap! I discovered this trick recently and oh my God it's opened to many possibilities, I really hate supports, they're not precise and always get stuck, but my method is flawless you should also take a look at how jet engines and turbomolecular pumps work, you want increasingly higher attack angles and I don't think impellers will stack efficciently, you may want another impeller design (like on commercial pumps and turbos) that start out small and flare out at the base for gradually higher and higher speed, they scoop a ton of water at the small end and accelerate it a lot at the big end
I've been considering experimenting with a similar technique. See, I had a printer with bad thermal calibration, so I was printing much colder than what I expected. This lead to poor layer adhesion, like you could pull on the layers and they would separate no problem. I was wondering if this could be used to our benefit when doing supports. We add a script so that the interface between supports is 0mm apart, just printed much colder than the rest of the part so that it doesn't fuse properly. Haven't gotten around to it though, since I'm still struggling to get my sidewinder x1 working again.
For the silicon part, you might want to apply the silicon on just one side of the half and let it fully cure before proceed to assemble another half. That way, the silicon will act like a custom made gasket and reusable for many times without need to apply new one for each removal. You might want to apply a thin coat of dish washer soap or vegetable oil on another half for easier removal for first time assembly, just in case it become sticky and for ease of removal later on.
You need to stop the water rotation after each stage outlet, stator vanes, only then can the pressure increase over each stage. I had a similar issue when designing a multistage air pump, where each stage needs to be smaller than the previous due to compression. Water doesnt compress so each step can be similar in size
Make inlet=that short pipe connection to pump body airtight. Also, check if your pump makes higher pressure by adding some restriction to outlet. Multi stage pumps are for pressure, not flow.
Just thinking out loud, shouldnt the water be going into the inlet? These impelers dont look like they would suck the water from the tank, I wouldve imagined water should already be flowing into the inlet to get pumped. P.s. love your videos!
Turbine pumps have to be primed. Almost always. Add a boat propeller to the intake. Big, steep angle that churns water straight in, you'll get a vacuum leak without it. Probably. Run the rod straight out the end, add an aggressive impeller if you are pumping garden/grey water.
Great design :) but you should try this test: pump water into a hose, and see how high you can pump the water. That is the true usefulness of a multistage pump!
Here's my idea: water leaves the impellers with a lot of angular momentum; The water may have too much centripetal force to flow back inward into the subsequent impellers. If you could straighten the flow (like with guide vanes), you may be able to make the pump MUCH more efficient.
Your problem Travis is that there is no cause for the spun water at high radius to slow and loose it's centrifugal effect to pass to the next stage through the exit hole. You need guiding vanes to catch the spinning water and redirect it from circumferential flow to inwards radial flow. Your motor load and your outlet pressure will drastically increase as a result.
Very interesting video! I like that you listen to your community for ideas. I recently started learning about these pumps and from my understanding so far, they are used to boost the static pressure, not the speed or flow, so different impeller sizes or impeller speed-increase for each stage, like some suggested, is not very useful. However, a re-design to seal the impellers or seperate the outlets from the inlets is probably useful, to prevent recirculation and the pump needs to be primed. For testing, maybe you can compare how high the pump can push the water up in a tube against gravity, this might show the increase in static pressure better. Some thoughts about the mechanical design: Maybe design spacers to precisely seperate the impellers on the shaft for easy assembly Some kind of raised rim on the housing to center the two halves (also makes sealing easier? ) Maybe using only two or three stages instead of going all-in on the first test (optional ;)
Great video, thank you. You didn’t appear to silicone between each stage of the pump, so you might have water leaking internally, back into the previous stage.
It seems like it was probably sucking up air with the water so it never achieved full prime. also you might need like a 5hp motor to power that pump without being under severe load.
why you dont use an printed seal with flexible materials? ? and your problem with the first wheels was... you have some air in it... for those pumps you should all air out of the pump housing
Your biggest problem is suction in the pump, obviously; but your turning it on without flooding the pump and air can go back into the pump from the port. Just like a syphon, the pump won't work with air in the system.
You should fill the volute with water before starting the impeller. This is called "priming". I am sure that with this little tip you pump will work properly. If you want to improve it even more you should differentiate impellers and volutes as the pressure increases.
Why not try a tangent combination of multiple pumps? Centrifugal force throws it at 90 degrees from first pump. Second pump takes 90 degrees outlet as its inlet and throws at another 90 degrees. And so on. Bit too late for recommendations but probably only you can do this.
Each of these stages is indeed a centrifugal pump - accelerating the water toward the outside of the pump. This is why on the final stage it flares out to the outlet. Each stage accelerates the water toward toward the outside and then it has nowhere to go. This is just a single stage pump still. You would have to have some kind of outlet at the outside of each stage redirecting the water toward the center of the next stage. Also as I'm sure you've noticed, centrifugal pumps are not self priming - you need it to be fed by gravity, or start it with water inside.
So I've worked a lot with pumps. I'm no pro, but I'm one damn clever cookie and I grew up on a farm that had a well. So I don't have a formal education but I've spent more time working on pumps than I care to admit. Now centrifugal pumps can't operate with air inside them. In short its because the spin applies force on the liquid that is easily dissipated in only one direction... kinda like a tesla valve. Theoretically is can flow in both directions, one just has orders of magnitude less resistance. When you have an incompressible medium, like water, then a spinning impeller will push water from it's center to its edges. That concept is used in centrifugap pumps by having the water inlet be the center of the impeller. Its spinning pushes the water in a general "way" direction. The housing then contains the water in toroidal flow around the impeller, which we also take advantage of by having the outlet in line with and tangential to the impeller. This results in the water thats pushed by the blades pushing on all the surrounding water, and the path of least resistance is the outlet. Your design has the basic shapes and features of a pump nearly perfect, but you didn't consider the roll pressure would play in this set up. To be more precise, you didn't prime your pump which in your case is absolutely necessary. Notice how in my explanation everything pushes on something else, so all the forces are continuous? When air is in the system it doesn't just come out of its own accord. It is WAY less dense than water so it will float to the top of the housing. Then when the water is trying to find a way to dissipate the energy from the impellers shove the path of least resistance is to compress the air in the housing. A few times won't do much, but if you compress an decompress anything ~30 times a second eventually it'll get hot. Hot things can warp, and warped things break. The other issue I saw was that the stages weren't isolated. Each impeller has only one way to impart its force, from the center to the edge. By not restricting the waters ability to flow between each section the impellers create independently spinning rings of water with the force between them balancing out. The only way this set up will work is if each impeller compounds to the next, else they will all be isolated rings of water. Actually I suspect the small volume that actually came out was due to the water balancing between chanbers: if the impellers weren't perfectly spaced then the distribution of forces between any two chambers would be different. This would force the shaft to move back and forth ever so slightly, randomly creating a momentary seal between sections. When that happened a small volume of water would be forced though to the next section in the chain and the seal would be violently broken creating other seals throughout the system. If you ran this continuously the impellers would eventually be bushes along the shaft until they were all balanced, the output decreasing to zero as this happened. Again, I'm not an educated men so this isn't an "educated guess". I'm just a clever cookie, only a simple farm boy tryin his hand at fluid dynamics.
Another way to chain multiple stages is to add a set of stator vanes between each impeller. They should be spiral shaped to turn the spin of the water as it leaves the impeller into a parallel flow with no spin. Also, on the enclosed vane impeller, you want the input and output cross section to be the same. I.e. it needs to be thinner at the edge than the center.
What am I missing? That doesn't seem like a water pump...but a water blender. I mean the impeller should take the water from the inlet to the outlet, or in this case, the 2nd stage. This looks like a water blender.
Офигенный контент многоступенчатого насоса, разберись с потоком воды, почитай о таких насосах, там поток воды надо разворачивать в разную сторону. И зазор минимальный нужен, а если бы заработала то поток воды был бы офигенный, пожалуйста доделаю этот проект.👍
Hi , the multicelular pump can produc a high presure in the outlet but need an initial inlet presur to work , that meen you have to put an tank in high level and connect him with the inlet of this pump , or you have to add an normal pump (volumic pump booster ) befor that multicelular pump .
You need flow straighteners immediately after each impeller otherwise centrifugal force of rotating water is forced toward wall of housing and never makes it into the next stage. flow straighteners stop the water rotating after each stage
I can not imagine how this multiple stages would improve the pump over an single stage pump. Never the less the friction will be 5 times higher, while flow rate and pressure are still the same. So its' 5 time less effektive !
Didn't the pump had to be completely full of water? I know it from selling pumps at first you have to fill them with water so the don't want to pull the air. Try it with a one direktion valve on the inlet side
I think there is a problem they way you printed the internal volute; I mean the directions that guide the fluid from the "discharge" of the previous impeller the the suction side of the following impeller, which of course would be a little difficult to print😅. But congrats! it is really beautiful pump.😍
The bubbles seem to be a sign that it's not sealed. I'd look at the neck that goes into the water, you sealed everywhere but there, and as it got further into the water, it started working better.
I've noticed that if you have the whole impeller or inlet of the impeller in water then it helps suck it up because there's air in it which is allowing me to fling the water so try to submerge maybe the first stage reply to this if you need any more help
To make supports easier to remove, increase the distance between the highest support layer and the part. Usually its 0 or 1 layers, but changing it to 2 layers should make life easier.
The idea is very cool but I think it hard to make it more efficient than single impeller pump. Water has too little space and too much distance to travel through all the pump body
Please get a lab bench power supply. You can get the for very cheap and then you can create a higher voltage and I think your pump would work at higher rpms.
You need a very tight fit between the impellers and the intake side of the casing. Also those impeller are way too large for the power that you have, I think that pump is about a 1,5kw but I can be wrong.
If you are 3d printing it, why design it like a conventionally cast or machined part? Your involutes can literally be optimal and pump directly into the next impeller in a single part. It'll be a bit longer, but it will actually pump
Great video as always. I really like the fact that you're still improving and listening to advice and critiques. I think a VERY useful part was the diagram of the water flux, very clear. If i may say, i would added the section of the rotor and maybe a compareson whit a short comment (but you could do it at project ended). Still very good job, keep up the good work. Ps the speacking is still improving, you're getting there.
@@LetsPrintYT I actually just designed and 3d printed a few of my own pumps. That's how I found your channel. I made a vane pump, then a small centrifugal pump, now a large one that's probably 10+gpm!
not bad but you missing the insulation of the enclosure it needs to be air tight so the water suction begin and the pump not suck air from the tiny holes around enlosure. you can print tesla water pump is the best i know so far
Can you help me please if possible?? To make a pump that can push enough water to out to put fires out ..so if you have a pool you can pop it in and use it with a solar panel or batterys or from your home...for like wildfires in cali and here in az? Just thinking of ways of saving lives and could help firefighters could leave them out for them all ready with brief instructions on how to use it and a sign out front your home to show a pump of some sort idk you never know tbh but idk if it's possible or not but would be cool
У тебя не правильного расположение сужений на каждой помпе. Чем меньше расстояние между крыльчатка кой и стенкой корпуса тем больше давление. У тебя водозабор начинается с узкого места и заканчивается широким, где падает давление. Для такого типа помп нужно повышенное давление на всасе. Что бы тянуло с ёмкости нужна помпа -уж улитка. Предлагаю разместить первую помпу (улитку) с клапаном рециркуляции по превышению давления. Напор с неё подать на всас твоей центрифужной помпы. Но я бы там поставил крыльчатка по типу обычных турбин
big mistake in your design is that all impeller have the same size. Best solution in this case would be to change size of first stage as small one and increase size to last stage.
Você deve separar os sistemas pressão. No caso, apenas um rotor esta fazendo a devida pressão a vizinhança virou uma perda de carga enorme. Você pode fazer mais um modulo, fazendo um ofset das peças, e criando uma voluta para cada sistema direcionando para cada camara. Alem disto, eu recomendo uma tomada de pressão ao longo do eixo divergente.
Typically this style pump isn’t intended to be self priming. It requires a steady supply side pressure. This style pump is intended for booster application where it amplifies incoming water pressure. So if you made the supply side hook up to a running water hose you would likely create pressure higher than that of the hose
Source: I work on water booster systems for a living.
He needed to at least prime it before that way he could have a bit of pressure
I wonder if he fully submerges it into the water would it work ..
@@rasg3000 I would think it would at least do alot better because it has water to push instead of sucking air
Actually they typically are self priming. But the first stage is typically fully submerged. Look at how grundfoss coolant pumps are typically used in most c.n.c. machines.
I am a operator and engineer on a 12 inch cutter suction dredger and we have two of these pumps running the jets at the end of the dredging arm. They are self priming assuming there is already a decent amount of water in the casing. Our suction is straight from the sea, with a minute of filling the casings of a external pump when we fire them up we have 318psi at over 4.8m3 a min. Serious bits of kit and always wanted to print a smaller version but I just think the tolerances required are impossible on a 3D printer. Ours need to get ground flat on the impellers.
You need to separate the high-pressure and low-pressure areas. Otherwise, most of the water will just recirculate within each stage.
I was thinking 3d printed one way valves between each section. Like Integza's design.
th-cam.com/video/QFKWZHB8-FQ/w-d-xo.html
Exactly what i thought from the beginning. Look at turbines, each stage has higher blades angle.
@justan idiot imaging writing an essay hating on integza just because he did something wrong...
@justan idiot tomato farm dweller
Yeah, and it also requires stator vanes to de-spin the flow after each stage - otherwise it won't flow into next impeller. The design in a video is just bad...
All the first impellers should be propellers and the las one an impeller. Reasoning: the impeller accelerates the flow outwards thats why the outlet is tangential, the propellers accelerate flow forward thats why the outlet is coaxial to the inlet. Your pump design accelerates every stage towards the outer wall but the inlet of each stage is in the center, the only optimal stage is the last one with the inlet in the center and the tangential outlet. Also consider individual angular velocities for your stages to improve efficiency. Just my two cents I hope this helps, keep up the good work, people like you make complex designs accessible to people who need them :)
Hint: Conical shape to convert pressure into flow at each stage....
Well yeah, but its a diy would it not be better to try multiple axial stages that lead to a centrifugal pump? Multistage Centrifugal Pumps tend to be sensitive to design parameters right? Maybe both can be built and put to the test?
I think most multistage pumps have seals between the stages, otherwise you get flow reversal. For a fluid like water you can easily 3d print labyrinth seals. Cool project, I like the idea.
I seriously recommend using the sharpie trick on supports, you use support interface (for a better finish) and set Z Gap to 0mm (just like when using soluble supports)
then you insert a pause script before the layer is printed on the supports, you paint the supports with sharpie and I recommend brushing the support roof interface layer with watered down white glue so the part sticks well to the supports, plastic really really doesn't want to stick to sharpie, so the supports (even with the thin glue) come off like butter in one whole piece!
closest thing to soluble supports you can have for cheap! I discovered this trick recently and oh my God it's opened to many possibilities, I really hate supports, they're not precise and always get stuck, but my method is flawless
you should also take a look at how jet engines and turbomolecular pumps work, you want increasingly higher attack angles and I don't think impellers will stack efficciently, you may want another impeller design (like on commercial pumps and turbos) that start out small and flare out at the base for gradually higher and higher speed, they scoop a ton of water at the small end and accelerate it a lot at the big end
video on this technique pls ... seems interesting
I've been considering experimenting with a similar technique. See, I had a printer with bad thermal calibration, so I was printing much colder than what I expected. This lead to poor layer adhesion, like you could pull on the layers and they would separate no problem. I was wondering if this could be used to our benefit when doing supports. We add a script so that the interface between supports is 0mm apart, just printed much colder than the rest of the part so that it doesn't fuse properly. Haven't gotten around to it though, since I'm still struggling to get my sidewinder x1 working again.
For the silicon part, you might want to apply the silicon on just one side of the half and let it fully cure before proceed to assemble another half.
That way, the silicon will act like a custom made gasket and reusable for many times without need to apply new one for each removal.
You might want to apply a thin coat of dish washer soap or vegetable oil on another half for easier removal for first time assembly, just in case it become sticky and for ease of removal later on.
very nice video about a waterbump
I think I can see the problem. There are no gaps around the impellers so the flow is being restricted and giving you a bad pump. Hope this helps.
Backflow is high, you need smaller gaps between inlets and outlets to reduce backflow.
Hard work never fail
Actually ... It does ... Alot of times. It's just that losers mostly don't tell their stories
Survivor's bias
You need to stop the water rotation after each stage outlet, stator vanes, only then can the pressure increase over each stage. I had a similar issue when designing a multistage air pump, where each stage needs to be smaller than the previous due to compression. Water doesnt compress so each step can be similar in size
Make inlet=that short pipe connection to pump body airtight. Also, check if your pump makes higher pressure by adding some restriction to outlet. Multi stage pumps are for pressure, not flow.
Just thinking out loud, shouldnt the water be going into the inlet? These impelers dont look like they would suck the water from the tank, I wouldve imagined water should already be flowing into the inlet to get pumped.
P.s. love your videos!
True words have been spoken
Turbine pumps have to be primed. Almost always. Add a boat propeller to the intake. Big, steep angle that churns water straight in, you'll get a vacuum leak without it. Probably. Run the rod straight out the end, add an aggressive impeller if you are pumping garden/grey water.
Great design :) but you should try this test: pump water into a hose, and see how high you can pump the water. That is the true usefulness of a multistage pump!
Failure is the first step to success 💯
Failure is also the first step to failure.
Or to failure
I love how you say "water bump"! Keep it up!
Well, inlet and outlet are bypassed in your Design around the impeller. So you are basically blending water, not pumping
The problem is that you don't have sealing between stages. Just as Txepetxcc said. (odd name)
Here's my idea:
water leaves the impellers with a lot of angular momentum; The water may have too much centripetal force to flow back inward into the subsequent impellers. If you could straighten the flow (like with guide vanes), you may be able to make the pump MUCH more efficient.
Your problem Travis is that there is no cause for the spun water at high radius to slow and loose it's centrifugal effect to pass to the next stage through the exit hole. You need guiding vanes to catch the spinning water and redirect it from circumferential flow to inwards radial flow. Your motor load and your outlet pressure will drastically increase as a result.
Printing TPU gasket (tiiviste) instead of silicone sealer would make your projects disassemble easier than breaking them apart.
You should 3d print ninjafex gaskets. So it is more easy to assemble and disassemble
Very interesting video! I like that you listen to your community for ideas. I recently started learning about these pumps and from my understanding so far, they are used to boost the static pressure, not the speed or flow, so different impeller sizes or impeller speed-increase for each stage, like some suggested, is not very useful. However, a re-design to seal the impellers or seperate the outlets from the inlets is probably useful, to prevent recirculation and the pump needs to be primed. For testing, maybe you can compare how high the pump can push the water up in a tube against gravity, this might show the increase in static pressure better.
Some thoughts about the mechanical design:
Maybe design spacers to precisely seperate the impellers on the shaft for easy assembly
Some kind of raised rim on the housing to center the two halves (also makes sealing easier? )
Maybe using only two or three stages instead of going all-in on the first test (optional ;)
Great video, thank you. You didn’t appear to silicone between each stage of the pump, so you might have water leaking internally, back into the previous stage.
It seems like it was probably sucking up air with the water so it never achieved full prime. also you might need like a 5hp motor to power that pump without being under severe load.
why you dont use an printed seal with flexible materials? ?
and your problem with the first wheels was... you have some air in it...
for those pumps you should all air out of the pump housing
Your biggest problem is suction in the pump, obviously; but your turning it on without flooding the pump and air can go back into the pump from the port. Just like a syphon, the pump won't work with air in the system.
You should fill the volute with water before starting the impeller. This is called "priming". I am sure that with this little tip you pump will work properly.
If you want to improve it even more you should differentiate impellers and volutes as the pressure increases.
it doesn't need to be high volume output, its for high pressure, put a pipe on outlet and see how high water will go up
Why not try a tangent combination of multiple pumps? Centrifugal force throws it at 90 degrees from first pump. Second pump takes 90 degrees outlet as its inlet and throws at another 90 degrees. And so on. Bit too late for recommendations but probably only you can do this.
thats a cool water bump
Each of these stages is indeed a centrifugal pump - accelerating the water toward the outside of the pump. This is why on the final stage it flares out to the outlet. Each stage accelerates the water toward toward the outside and then it has nowhere to go. This is just a single stage pump still. You would have to have some kind of outlet at the outside of each stage redirecting the water toward the center of the next stage. Also as I'm sure you've noticed, centrifugal pumps are not self priming - you need it to be fed by gravity, or start it with water inside.
So I've worked a lot with pumps. I'm no pro, but I'm one damn clever cookie and I grew up on a farm that had a well. So I don't have a formal education but I've spent more time working on pumps than I care to admit. Now centrifugal pumps can't operate with air inside them. In short its because the spin applies force on the liquid that is easily dissipated in only one direction... kinda like a tesla valve. Theoretically is can flow in both directions, one just has orders of magnitude less resistance. When you have an incompressible medium, like water, then a spinning impeller will push water from it's center to its edges.
That concept is used in centrifugap pumps by having the water inlet be the center of the impeller. Its spinning pushes the water in a general "way" direction. The housing then contains the water in toroidal flow around the impeller, which we also take advantage of by having the outlet in line with and tangential to the impeller. This results in the water thats pushed by the blades pushing on all the surrounding water, and the path of least resistance is the outlet.
Your design has the basic shapes and features of a pump nearly perfect, but you didn't consider the roll pressure would play in this set up. To be more precise, you didn't prime your pump which in your case is absolutely necessary. Notice how in my explanation everything pushes on something else, so all the forces are continuous? When air is in the system it doesn't just come out of its own accord. It is WAY less dense than water so it will float to the top of the housing. Then when the water is trying to find a way to dissipate the energy from the impellers shove the path of least resistance is to compress the air in the housing. A few times won't do much, but if you compress an decompress anything ~30 times a second eventually it'll get hot. Hot things can warp, and warped things break.
The other issue I saw was that the stages weren't isolated. Each impeller has only one way to impart its force, from the center to the edge. By not restricting the waters ability to flow between each section the impellers create independently spinning rings of water with the force between them balancing out. The only way this set up will work is if each impeller compounds to the next, else they will all be isolated rings of water. Actually I suspect the small volume that actually came out was due to the water balancing between chanbers: if the impellers weren't perfectly spaced then the distribution of forces between any two chambers would be different. This would force the shaft to move back and forth ever so slightly, randomly creating a momentary seal between sections. When that happened a small volume of water would be forced though to the next section in the chain and the seal would be violently broken creating other seals throughout the system. If you ran this continuously the impellers would eventually be bushes along the shaft until they were all balanced, the output decreasing to zero as this happened.
Again, I'm not an educated men so this isn't an "educated guess". I'm just a clever cookie, only a simple farm boy tryin his hand at fluid dynamics.
I’m hooked on this dudes accent. I’m curious as to where he’s from.
Another way to chain multiple stages is to add a set of stator vanes between each impeller. They should be spiral shaped to turn the spin of the water as it leaves the impeller into a parallel flow with no spin. Also, on the enclosed vane impeller, you want the input and output cross section to be the same. I.e. it needs to be thinner at the edge than the center.
He puts metal, he puts actual metal 2:58. loved it.
Idk if you do but let the silicone firm up some for 5-10 mins then torque the screws down. What we do when we rebuild engines at the shop
My friend what youbare making is a high pressure pump. I mean you can load a high pressure tank up to 3000 psi.
What am I missing?
That doesn't seem like a water pump...but a water blender.
I mean the impeller should take the water from the inlet to the outlet, or in this case, the 2nd stage.
This looks like a water blender.
Офигенный контент многоступенчатого насоса, разберись с потоком воды, почитай о таких насосах, там поток воды надо разворачивать в разную сторону. И зазор минимальный нужен, а если бы заработала то поток воды был бы офигенный, пожалуйста доделаю этот проект.👍
Hi , the multicelular pump can produc a high presure in the outlet but need an initial inlet presur to work , that meen you have to put an tank in high level and connect him with the inlet of this pump , or you have to add an normal pump (volumic pump booster ) befor that multicelular pump .
Is the pump suffering from cavitation? Judging by the foamy water coming out the outlet...
You need flow straighteners immediately after each impeller otherwise centrifugal force of rotating water is forced toward wall of housing and never makes it into the next stage. flow straighteners stop the water rotating after each stage
I can not imagine how this multiple stages would improve the pump over an single stage pump. Never the less the friction will be 5 times higher, while flow rate and pressure are still the same. So its' 5 time less effektive !
you should close the gap between each Centrifugal Propeller and housing from entery side, even if it touch the housing you will get best result
In skateboard they would use bearing spacers for that. You don't need to add them, but in your case it would be ideal.
Didn't the pump had to be completely full of water? I know it from selling pumps at first you have to fill them with water so the don't want to pull the air. Try it with a one direktion valve on the inlet side
You could get some flex material and print costume gaskets instead of having to deal with the messy silicone ;)
Awesome video bro.
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I think there is a problem they way you printed the internal volute; I mean the directions that guide the fluid from the "discharge" of the previous impeller the the suction side of the following impeller, which of course would be a little difficult to print😅. But congrats! it is really beautiful pump.😍
each stage has it's own bobbling so at the end, u get lots of air instead of liquid.
Research more on how volute casing works and its arrangement for 2nd stage pumps
The bubbles seem to be a sign that it's not sealed. I'd look at the neck that goes into the water, you sealed everywhere but there, and as it got further into the water, it started working better.
Try puting an air leaker on the top to get rid of the air that might be the problem.
I've noticed that if you have the whole impeller or inlet of the impeller in water then it helps suck it up because there's air in it which is allowing me to fling the water so try to submerge maybe the first stage reply to this if you need any more help
To make supports easier to remove, increase the distance between the highest support layer and the part. Usually its 0 or 1 layers, but changing it to 2 layers should make life easier.
brother man... i love the way you think... i wish you were my next door neighbor
Good test. But it will only work with independent outputs discharging into a manifold.
Add a planetary gear set in between each one so that they all spin at different speeds.
i strongly recommend prushament, also pla should work better for most of your projects
Проблема в том что поток после первой крыльчатки продолжает двигаться по спирали, поток нужно выпрямлять перед каждой крыльчаткой.
Если бы но прикрил нагнетания на пару сек может быть и луще качал
Seems you know what you are doing and what is happening XD nice job man...
Is it me or is it rotating opposite the direction of the volute outlet?
Yes you called it at the end. Each chamber had nowhere to go except to dead head and just let water pass through tiny spaces
The idea is very cool but I think it hard to make it more efficient than single impeller pump.
Water has too little space and too much distance to travel through all the pump body
Please get a lab bench power supply. You can get the for very cheap and then you can create a higher voltage and I think your pump would work at higher rpms.
You need a very tight fit between the impellers and the intake side of the casing. Also those impeller are way too large for the power that you have, I think that pump is about a 1,5kw but I can be wrong.
If you are 3d printing it, why design it like a conventionally cast or machined part? Your involutes can literally be optimal and pump directly into the next impeller in a single part. It'll be a bit longer, but it will actually pump
Sick 5-double turbo m8
I like your videos asf. Subscribed!
this pump when running in the bathtub, sounds like a gas turbine locomotive or a really powerful diesel engine or even a possible jet!
Are you sure the shaft is turning in the right direction?
I think every stage should have it' own intake and output and then the outputs mounted in parallel and so the intakes
Great invention! Did you use fresh water?
Hello! Pump inlet is leaking air. The pump does not create a vacuum.
The flow rate may only be related to the last pump, and multiple pumps directly connected in series will only reduce the speed and waste power.
good work great music
I think gasket maker will seal better then silicone
Great video as always. I really like the fact that you're still improving and listening to advice and critiques.
I think a VERY useful part was the diagram of the water flux, very clear.
If i may say, i would added the section of the rotor and maybe a compareson whit a short comment (but you could do it at project ended).
Still very good job, keep up the good work.
Ps the speacking is still improving, you're getting there.
Hey the new supercharger is here!
Wouldn’t cascading the flow make
More sense? One outlet feeds the next inlet.
Did you use supports on the impellers? This is super cool! Very nice job!
Thank u mate! ;) For impellers I didn’t use supports.
@@LetsPrintYT I actually just designed and 3d printed a few of my own pumps. That's how I found your channel. I made a vane pump, then a small centrifugal pump, now a large one that's probably 10+gpm!
multiple stages wont improve flow but it does improve pressure.
Maybe if you blend the blades, like a turbo, even you could add a stator disc
I like your chanel a lot
not bad but you missing the insulation of the enclosure it needs to be air tight so the water suction begin and the pump not suck air from the tiny holes around enlosure.
you can print tesla water pump is the best i know so far
Can you help me please if possible?? To make a pump that can push enough water to out to put fires out ..so if you have a pool you can pop it in and use it with a solar panel or batterys or from your home...for like wildfires in cali and here in az? Just thinking of ways of saving lives and could help firefighters could leave them out for them all ready with brief instructions on how to use it and a sign out front your home to show a pump of some sort idk you never know tbh but idk if it's possible or not but would be cool
you need to change impeller design open up the top wall so water can flow into the nest stage
If the casing was in a sprial way it will guide the water to the next set of impellers rather than rotating in circles.
First of all, the single dc motor was rotating in the other direction thats why it didnt even suck a singke drop of water inside
У тебя не правильного расположение сужений на каждой помпе. Чем меньше расстояние между крыльчатка кой и стенкой корпуса тем больше давление. У тебя водозабор начинается с узкого места и заканчивается широким, где падает давление. Для такого типа помп нужно повышенное давление на всасе. Что бы тянуло с ёмкости нужна помпа -уж улитка. Предлагаю разместить первую помпу (улитку) с клапаном рециркуляции по превышению давления. Напор с неё подать на всас твоей центрифужной помпы. Но я бы там поставил крыльчатка по типу обычных турбин
Put the pump whole in the water. It would be much better then??
big mistake in your design is that all impeller have the same size. Best solution in this case would be to change size of first stage as small one and increase size to last stage.
You should definitely add some gears ratios, between turbines
Can you update the description with a link to part 2? I couldn't find it.
You need to prime the pump. It needs to be filled with water before startup.
Looks a lot like booster pumps on older firetrucks
The water inlet area must be the same as the outlet area, it must be narrower in the larger diameter for te red impelers.
Você deve separar os sistemas pressão. No caso, apenas um rotor esta fazendo a devida pressão a vizinhança virou uma perda de carga enorme. Você pode fazer mais um modulo, fazendo um ofset das peças, e criando uma voluta para cada sistema direcionando para cada camara. Alem disto, eu recomendo uma tomada de pressão ao longo do eixo divergente.
Igual, baita trabalho! Continue firme que uma hora da certo! Forte abraço!
Génial essayer de faire un compresseur de muscle car😎