Still helping people a year later, thanks. I didn't need this for smoothing out a curved section (but it's nice to know how to do that). I just wanted the final couple of layers with a 0.1 layer height because I had some text being printed and needed the finer detail. I didn't want the entire thing printed at 0.1mm layer height though because it just increased the print time unnecessarily.
Glad it helped Richard. Do let me know if you ever have any questions or if there's anything in particular you'd like me to cover in a future video. Take care, and happy printing.
@@FrankP83 Variable layer height isn't going to provide additional stability, so a perfect sphere can always be very difficult without supports. However, regarding supports for the surface quality, this certainly may help. However no more than just printing the whole thing at that layer height. If you're printing a sphere, you'll want the top half to be the same quality as the lower half so there wouldn't be much need for variable layer height with that unless you were ok with having more visible 'steps' in the upper half of your sphere.
I don't think you can I'm afraid so it would be a matter of adjusting the levels with your left and right mouse clicks untol you reached the layer heights you were after.
I am a Solidworks user and I have designed a wing with cross ribs >45 degs. But I cannot use the Spiral Vase mode. When vase mode selected, PrusaSlicer completely ignores internal ribs. I posted this issue on SW forum but no response yet. Has anyone experience this issue?
Hi Riz, Vase mode, by it's nature only produces single layer perimeter walls through the entire print, and if you feed it a model with internal detail, it will prioritize exterior perimeters over interior. I may not be fully understanding your issue though so please do offer up some more info as I'd love to help you if I can.
@@3DRevolution thanks for your reply. I found one video explaining how to design a wing with internal ribs that could enable vase mode. This design technique is counter intuitive and outside any mfg. concept. Now I have to redesign all parts if I want vase mode. Here is the link to that video th-cam.com/video/piC2TR2mROc/w-d-xo.html
You have the best tutorial that made me switch from Ultimaker to Prusa. However, I am using Ender3 printer and want to know if I can use prusaslicer parameters from a friend on Ender3? Meaning how do I change the nozzle wipe axis since the heating beds are quit different? Mine has a metal clip to hold the glass plate down which interfere with the nozzle during startup.
Hi Riz, I'm really glad you enjoy the tutorials! Regarding your question, it sounds like the issue your describing is the nozzle wipe at the start of a print is interfering with your clips holding the glass on the bed. If this is the case, you just need to adjust the Start G-Code in PrusaSlicer to make the relevant changes. To do this, go to the Printer settings in PrusaSlicer, go down to the 'Custom G-Code' tab, and then in the box 'Start G-Code' find the section that is wiping the nozzle and change the coordinates to where you'd prefer it to take place.
Why would you slice it in 0.25 layerheights when using a 0.4mm nozzle. All layerheights has to be divided with 4, so 0.08 - 0.12 - 0.16 - 0.20 - 0.24 etc Just saying, but thank you for a great video anyway, but we should help people the best we can, so they don't start printing in odd layerheights numbers :)
Hi Morgen, I'm afraid you may have got a little confised at somewhere along the way. The nozzle is 0.4mm in diameter, meaning you should ensure the X and Y axis of your design are in multiples of 0.4. The layer height is completely irrelivant to the nozzle size as the Z axis isn't in any way affected by it. Think of it like this, if you took a thick paint brush that was 1cm wide, dabbed it in the paint and then stroked it across a page, that is going to create a line that's roughly 1cm wide, but it's not creating a tower of paint standing 1cm up off of the paper. You could paint over that sime line 1000 times before the Z height became as tall as the paint brush is thick. So as a recap, when designing stuff for 3D printing, you should aim to ensure that the X and Y axis are in a multiple of whatever nozzle size you're planning on using. The layer height (Z axis dimensions), are only really limited by what your Z axis motors are capable of doing. For example, the Prusa Mk3s in this video can go down to 0.05mm, and up to around 0.3mm.
You are actually not totally wrong, you just got a bit mixed up. When you combine a full step (1.8 degrees) of your average stepper motor with your average Z lead screw pitch it amounts to a lift Z height of 0.04mm. So ideally all layer heights should be able to be divided by 0.04mm.
So glad I saw this. I missed the whole menu in prusa slicer. I didn't realize how detailed you can get with this tool. Great tutorial thanks!
Really glad it helped! Happy printing!
Excellent, told me everything I was looking to find out and more. Looking forward to vastly improved prints. Thanks!
Thank you! I got so very frustrated trying to figure out how change layer height. Now I think I can do it.
You're very welcome! Happy printing!
Still helping people a year later, thanks. I didn't need this for smoothing out a curved section (but it's nice to know how to do that). I just wanted the final couple of layers with a 0.1 layer height because I had some text being printed and needed the finer detail. I didn't want the entire thing printed at 0.1mm layer height though because it just increased the print time unnecessarily.
Thanks!
Thanks for explaining how to take advantage of variable layer height. It takes a long time to make a quality video like this!
Wow thank you so much, really glad it was helpful. Hope you find some of my other videos useful, happy printing!
This is an awesome tip, never knew about this feature.
I need to get around to watching your long vids on features of PrusaSlicer.
Glad it helped Richard. Do let me know if you ever have any questions or if there's anything in particular you'd like me to cover in a future video. Take care, and happy printing.
This is such an excellent video. I am using this method today. Thank you for your instruction. Well done!
BTW, I subscribed.
Thanks very much, really glad it was helpful! Happy printing!
It's an amazing video with a great explanation of the tool. Keep up the great work!
Thanks very much, I appreciate it!
Fantastic explanation and tutorial! Thanks so much for this!
You're very welcome, hope it helped! Happy printing!
fantastic instructions for a feature not too well explained by Prusa
Glad it was helpful!
Watching the video solved an issue for me many thanks, great video...
Really glad it helped! Happy printing!
Thank you so much! Very good explained!
You're very welcome! Happy printing!
Thanks Man. This is a must have feature that I am going to use as I make aesthetic models
Really glad it helped! Happy printing!
Brilliant lessons! Thank you!
Glad you liked it, thanks!
Thanks, just used it after your quick tutorial!
Really glad it was helpful! Thanks, and happy printing!
Thanks for this tip!
Do you think that this can solve some issues like the rounded surfaces that face the print plate?
Thanks in advance!
Hey Frank, sorry for the late reply. By this do you mean slopes along the Z axis that are overhaning? Such as the underside of a bowl?
@3DRevolution exactly. For example I want to print a sphere directly on print plate without supports
@@FrankP83 Variable layer height isn't going to provide additional stability, so a perfect sphere can always be very difficult without supports. However, regarding supports for the surface quality, this certainly may help. However no more than just printing the whole thing at that layer height. If you're printing a sphere, you'll want the top half to be the same quality as the lower half so there wouldn't be much need for variable layer height with that unless you were ok with having more visible 'steps' in the upper half of your sphere.
How do you set the min/max for layer heights when using variable layers? What if i only want the max detail to be 0.10 instead of 0.07?
I don't think you can I'm afraid so it would be a matter of adjusting the levels with your left and right mouse clicks untol you reached the layer heights you were after.
Really useful. Thanks
Really glad to have helped! Thanks and happy printing!
thanks, it was neat to learn something new😃
Glad to hear that! Happy printing!
thank you
very useful thanks
Glad it was helpful, happy printing!
I am a Solidworks user and I have designed a wing with cross ribs >45 degs. But I cannot use the Spiral Vase mode. When vase mode selected, PrusaSlicer completely ignores internal ribs.
I posted this issue on SW forum but no response yet.
Has anyone experience this issue?
Hi Riz, Vase mode, by it's nature only produces single layer perimeter walls through the entire print, and if you feed it a model with internal detail, it will prioritize exterior perimeters over interior. I may not be fully understanding your issue though so please do offer up some more info as I'd love to help you if I can.
@@3DRevolution thanks for your reply. I found one video explaining how to design a wing with internal ribs that could enable vase mode.
This design technique is counter intuitive and outside any mfg. concept.
Now I have to redesign all parts if I want vase mode.
Here is the link to that video
th-cam.com/video/piC2TR2mROc/w-d-xo.html
You have the best tutorial that made me switch from Ultimaker to Prusa. However, I am using Ender3 printer and want to know if I can use prusaslicer parameters from a friend on Ender3? Meaning how do I change the nozzle wipe axis since the heating beds are quit different? Mine has a metal clip to hold the glass plate down which interfere with the nozzle during startup.
Hi Riz, I'm really glad you enjoy the tutorials!
Regarding your question, it sounds like the issue your describing is the nozzle wipe at the start of a print is interfering with your clips holding the glass on the bed.
If this is the case, you just need to adjust the Start G-Code in PrusaSlicer to make the relevant changes.
To do this, go to the Printer settings in PrusaSlicer, go down to the 'Custom G-Code' tab, and then in the box 'Start G-Code' find the section that is wiping the nozzle and change the coordinates to where you'd prefer it to take place.
Why would you slice it in 0.25 layerheights when using a 0.4mm nozzle. All layerheights has to be divided with 4, so 0.08 - 0.12 - 0.16 - 0.20 - 0.24 etc Just saying, but thank you for a great video anyway, but we should help people the best we can, so they don't start printing in odd layerheights numbers :)
Hi Morgen, I'm afraid you may have got a little confised at somewhere along the way. The nozzle is 0.4mm in diameter, meaning you should ensure the X and Y axis of your design are in multiples of 0.4.
The layer height is completely irrelivant to the nozzle size as the Z axis isn't in any way affected by it.
Think of it like this, if you took a thick paint brush that was 1cm wide, dabbed it in the paint and then stroked it across a page, that is going to create a line that's roughly 1cm wide, but it's not creating a tower of paint standing 1cm up off of the paper. You could paint over that sime line 1000 times before the Z height became as tall as the paint brush is thick.
So as a recap, when designing stuff for 3D printing, you should aim to ensure that the X and Y axis are in a multiple of whatever nozzle size you're planning on using. The layer height (Z axis dimensions), are only really limited by what your Z axis motors are capable of doing. For example, the Prusa Mk3s in this video can go down to 0.05mm, and up to around 0.3mm.
@@3DRevolution True my bad, I was thinking of Layer width :) Thank you for reminding me :)
@@morgenkaffe Not a problem, take care and happy printing :)
You are actually not totally wrong, you just got a bit mixed up. When you combine a full step (1.8 degrees) of your average stepper motor with your average Z lead screw pitch it amounts to a lift Z height of 0.04mm. So ideally all layer heights should be able to be divided by 0.04mm.
@@MM-fc8ie Belted Z's with gear ratios and no lead screws throw this off entirely.