The multipurpose paint scraper, you are using to separate the spot welds, is commonly known as a 5-in-1 tool. Keep up the good work and positive attitude.
They always make it look so easy in the videos. Then you try to do it and learn the truth. I am learning that as well with the floorpans. One tool I have found useful is an air saw. It is like a jig saw. It makes short work of this type of sheet metal and gives more control than a cutting wheel. Plus you will get to put that new compressor to work.
Andrew, been there done that, its PITA for sure. Get yourself a couple drift pins that go thru the trunk pan and thru the frame rail, that will help to position it properly. It's tons of work for sure and you'll be surprised how long it takes to weld everything in. Good luck buddy, I'll be watching you.
Andrew, I just made my own with 1/2 or 3/4" rigid conduit, I can't remember off hand, you can go to the hardware store and pick up a couple 6-8" nipples. You might even get away with pvc.
I've skipped ahead a bit to comment on your most recent vid. Just found this series and have been binge watching it all night. Just watched you peel that half inch of bondo off, that was ridiculous lol. I had a 95 mustang i wrecked a week ago. Just came across a 76 mustang 2 for $1500 canadian that I really want to buy and drop what parts I can in that. And this series is like pouring gasoline on a campfire
Hahaha. Well I appreciate you tuning in. And I’m glad I can add fuel to your project motivation. Sorry to hear about your 95. That’s rough. Hopefully you can strike a deal on another car and get back in the garage. Keep me updated. I’d like to hear how you make out. greaserookie@gmail.com
Ugh! My left wrist is writhing in agony from watching you hit yours with that hammer. I relived all the pain and frustration I went through when I did my trunk. And the torque boxes. I finally got angry, cut as much as I could with my cut-off wheel and that eased the built-up frustration. I hate sparks flying, inside the car or in my garage in general. Therefore, I dread each upcoming Grinding Day. The day when all the spot- and butt welding is done and the welds have to be smoothed. That is a messy day. I spend a lot more time on fitment and positioning of new panels, the welding part is no longer as consuming as it was. You are doing great, I'm really impressed with how far you have gotten and the difficult repairs you are tackling. Talk about a dramatic personal transformation in the course of one year. I bet you did not see all of this coming when you purchased the car. Good job.
Thanks Gudmundur. As always I appreciate the kind words and support. It’s been a fun ride and I’m loving every second of it. I really appreciate you watching along the way. 👍
Nice that frame rail wasn't bad.... before close up ... spray it to protect it from future rust (don't block up any drain areas) and I hope you see why I keep saying only cut 2 points at once.. once took out it was moving. I know seems a lot of work but you are so lucky the condition. I had to do both sides... all trunk. So lucky! This car is so worth it. Also thought of you listening to Ford Mustang Early Years podcast where guy really upgraded his straight 6 to get enough horsepower to match a hi-po! Keep going
Thanks Keith. I definitely kept you in mind when I was removing the Sheet Metal. I kept checking my reference points. However I do think it would be easy to get frustrated and start cutting more metal than you originally wanted to.
The best drill bits for starting spot welds are the 1/8" double ended rivet drill bits. They are stiff sharp and cheap. Like you I am not a fan of spot welds. I have a variety of chisels and tools I use to remove them. Sometimes I will just grind the metal down until it's paper thin and then peeling it apart. Air hammers work well but I don't use them much as they tend to pry the steel too far apart.
Thanks Robert. I’ll look into the 8th inch drill bits. I actually have an air chisel but have been apprehensive to use it. Not sure why it would definitely save me some time.
The hammer hitting your hand must of been painful, get yourself some mechanix gloves, for spot welds I found the best way was a cut off wheel on an air grinder, shave a bit of material off then go back with an air chisel to break them loose. When you go back to welding the pan back to the frame rail I used a copper weld through primer on the flanges seemed to help better when doing the spot welds. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the advice. I’ve had a lot of people recommend grinding them before using a chisel. I’m going to try that method for a while. I have an air chisel I just need to break it out.
@@GreaseRookie oh also forgot when you try to secure the trunk pan to the frame rails if it sits up a bit grab some self tapping screws or if you want to spend the money you can use the cleco fasteners as well.
Grab yourself an air chisel. They are cheap and make quick work of removing stubborn panels. Another good and cheap tool is a pneumatic recip saw. Thin blade and cuts sheet like its warm butter. Your doing a good job. Lots of reference points make fitting new panels a lot easier.
yeah apparently a negative side effect of that is that if you get rear ended, and the gas ignites, it pretty much immediately explodes into the cabin of the car. Theres nothing between the gas tank and the cab besides the foam cushions of the back seats
Andrew, totally HATE the trunk floors on stangs. AARGH....but that should basically be the worst of getting into spaces and all the measurements and welds. I been busy last month or so but i will get some photos to ya. I have them uploaded to site so i may just give ya permissions to see them. There is a lot, they just might help you never know LOL. hang in there....
Thank you Randy. I appreciate the help. It’s also good to know I’m in the thick of the grunt work with the trunk. I’m sick of crawling under the car and into the trunk space. I bought a nice rolling stool and I can’t even use it. 😖
The multipurpose paint scraper, you are using to separate the spot welds, is commonly known as a 5-in-1 tool. Keep up the good work and positive attitude.
Yes that’s it. I knew the name was something simple and basic. Thanks for watching. 👍
They always make it look so easy in the videos. Then you try to do it and learn the truth. I am learning that as well with the floorpans. One tool I have found useful is an air saw. It is like a jig saw. It makes short work of this type of sheet metal and gives more control than a cutting wheel. Plus you will get to put that new compressor to work.
I agree. I wouldn’t say this job was a reality check but it definitely took longer than I anticipated
Andrew, been there done that, its PITA for sure. Get yourself a couple drift pins that go thru the trunk pan and thru the frame rail, that will help to position it properly. It's tons of work for sure and you'll be surprised how long it takes to weld everything in. Good luck buddy, I'll be watching you.
Thanks Tim. I’ll look into the pins. I think a lot more people would do this kind of work if you didn’t have to remove spot welds!
Andrew, I just made my own with 1/2 or 3/4" rigid conduit, I can't remember off hand, you can go to the hardware store and pick up a couple 6-8" nipples. You might even get away with pvc.
Those bumper brackets were the worst part of my restoration they were a pain to remove. You did great!!
Body chisel. Steck 20015. I still tend to grind off the welds rather than drill. Making progress. I like it.
Feeling good about it. I’ve found this stage of the project to be very satisfying. It’s nice to see the bad metal removed.
Feeling good about it. I’ve found this stage of the project to be very satisfying. It’s nice to see the bad metal removed.
I've skipped ahead a bit to comment on your most recent vid. Just found this series and have been binge watching it all night. Just watched you peel that half inch of bondo off, that was ridiculous lol. I had a 95 mustang i wrecked a week ago. Just came across a 76 mustang 2 for $1500 canadian that I really want to buy and drop what parts I can in that. And this series is like pouring gasoline on a campfire
Hahaha. Well I appreciate you tuning in. And I’m glad I can add fuel to your project motivation. Sorry to hear about your 95. That’s rough. Hopefully you can strike a deal on another car and get back in the garage. Keep me updated. I’d like to hear how you make out. greaserookie@gmail.com
Ugh! My left wrist is writhing in agony from watching you hit yours with that hammer. I relived all the pain and frustration I went through when I did my trunk. And the torque boxes. I finally got angry, cut as much as I could with my cut-off wheel and that eased the built-up frustration. I hate sparks flying, inside the car or in my garage in general. Therefore, I dread each upcoming Grinding Day. The day when all the spot- and butt welding is done and the welds have to be smoothed. That is a messy day. I spend a lot more time on fitment and positioning of new panels, the welding part is no longer as consuming as it was. You are doing great, I'm really impressed with how far you have gotten and the difficult repairs you are tackling. Talk about a dramatic personal transformation in the course of one year. I bet you did not see all of this coming when you purchased the car. Good job.
Thanks Gudmundur. As always I appreciate the kind words and support. It’s been a fun ride and I’m loving every second of it. I really appreciate you watching along the way. 👍
Nice that frame rail wasn't bad.... before close up ... spray it to protect it from future rust (don't block up any drain areas) and I hope you see why I keep saying only cut 2 points at once.. once took out it was moving. I know seems a lot of work but you are so lucky the condition. I had to do both sides... all trunk. So lucky! This car is so worth it. Also thought of you listening to Ford Mustang Early Years podcast where guy really upgraded his straight 6 to get enough horsepower to match a hi-po! Keep going
Thanks Keith. I definitely kept you in mind when I was removing the Sheet Metal. I kept checking my reference points. However I do think it would be easy to get frustrated and start cutting more metal than you originally wanted to.
Great job.You are making great progress. Rail looks good to . Cant wait for the next update video.
Thanks Harvey. I appreciate the continued support. I get so much motivation watching you paint your car. I can’t wait to get to that stage.
Hi five Andrew !!! Man, this is looking great !!! I just learned a few things from this video. Keep up the great work brother.
Nice. You were the first one to hi5 me. Thanks man!
High five man! I needed this video - I’m starting this process in a couple weeks!
You’ve got a love unibodies great job man it’s coming along🤙🤙
hi you did well so keep up wift the good work
Thanks Greg!
The best drill bits for starting spot welds are the 1/8" double ended rivet drill bits. They are stiff sharp and cheap. Like you I am not a fan of spot welds. I have a variety of chisels and tools I use to remove them. Sometimes I will just grind the metal down until it's paper thin and then peeling it apart.
Air hammers work well but I don't use them much as they tend to pry the steel too far apart.
Thanks Robert. I’ll look into the 8th inch drill bits. I actually have an air chisel but have been apprehensive to use it. Not sure why it would definitely save me some time.
The hammer hitting your hand must of been painful, get yourself some mechanix gloves, for spot welds I found the best way was a cut off wheel on an air grinder, shave a bit of material off then go back with an air chisel to break them loose.
When you go back to welding the pan back to the frame rail I used a copper weld through primer on the flanges seemed to help better when doing the spot welds.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the advice. I’ve had a lot of people recommend grinding them before using a chisel. I’m going to try that method for a while. I have an air chisel I just need to break it out.
@@GreaseRookie oh also forgot when you try to secure the trunk pan to the frame rails if it sits up a bit grab some self tapping screws or if you want to spend the money you can use the cleco fasteners as well.
Good job!
Thanks Rickard!
Grab yourself an air chisel. They are cheap and make quick work of removing stubborn panels. Another good and cheap tool is a pneumatic recip saw. Thin blade and cuts sheet like its warm butter. Your doing a good job. Lots of reference points make fitting new panels a lot easier.
Thanks Dave. I’m definitely going to pick up one of those air chisels I’ve had several people recommend I get one. 👍
I always thought it was crazy that the floor pan is the fuel tank.
Yeah I’m still not sure how I feel about that 😂
yeah apparently a negative side effect of that is that if you get rear ended, and the gas ignites, it pretty much immediately explodes into the cabin of the car. Theres nothing between the gas tank and the cab besides the foam cushions of the back seats
Andrew, totally HATE the trunk floors on stangs. AARGH....but that should basically be the worst of getting into spaces and all the measurements and welds. I been busy last month or so but i will get some photos to ya. I have them uploaded to site so i may just give ya permissions to see them. There is a lot, they just might help you never know LOL. hang in there....
Thank you Randy. I appreciate the help. It’s also good to know I’m in the thick of the grunt work with the trunk. I’m sick of crawling under the car and into the trunk space. I bought a nice rolling stool and I can’t even use it. 😖
@@GreaseRookie LOL ;)
Good video man
i dreaded this part when doing my car.. best of luck man.. try not to do like me and get pissed off and just start hacking stuff off with a cutter..
callofgeorge 🤣. I’ve been close a few times. Fortunately, I’ve had help from enough people that I’ve kept my cool. 👍
I just use a pneumatic hammer to knock them apart. if it tears the sheet-metal than it needed to be replaced anyways lol.
It also takes a fraction of the time. It that is just me. 😁🤙
I've cut 3 different fingers too
I hand and air chisel/ drilled that off
Went try the outside several times.
I'd cut it out and patch next time. From the outside!
I want to high five you but my hand still has major sympathy pain from the slow-mo hammer hit 🤪
Thanks David. Nothing causes an instant blood pressure spike like a hit to the hand with a hammer!
you know those are so strong to save your life in a rear ender, right?
You have a point. I suppose I can have a bit of appreciation with that perspective.