I repaired the same subwoofer using your video. I replaced C37 and C38 with 470uF caps and C35 and C36 with 47uF. All are Panasonic FC series. I also unsoldered R85, R90, R89, R83, and soldered wires to them, then covered the solder joints and resistors with heatshrink. I mounted the resistors to the black heatsink (3:12) and soldered the other end of the wires to the PCB in the places where the resistors were. Doing this will keep the heat away from the capacitors. I did this while visiting family in the US. I happened to bring some 470uF and 47uF caps with me. I didn't have time to order any replacements for the other ones before i had to go back to the UK. The best and most power efficient way would be to use a second small 15-0-15 VAC transformer, build a rectifier and smoothing circuit on stripboard then connect the output to the voltage regulator on the original board. Ive done this mod to other amplifiers that had the same ovetheating problem. What they should do is have another winding or taps on the transformer for +/-15V and +5V. Much more efficient.
Wow! You went above and beyond anything I did. Nice mods! I did find the zeners were also bad after the initial cap replacement so replaced those. I also put in some higher wattage resistors. Probably should have added some individual heat sinks to the 2 transistors next to them as well but just left them alone. Yes, like you mentioned, the design is not the best. They must have put penny pinching over reliability on this one... Thanks for your comment!
I'm fighting similar issues on a KSW-10 with identical dark spots on the board. My particular sub still somehow functioned mostly normal outside of an occasional (but extremely annoying) loud thump on power-on. Hoping I caught it in time. I only wish there was a full list of the components you replaced, one way or another this has been a huge help. Thank you!
@jeepxj1988 I replaced several parts in this unit beyond the capacitors. The caps did fix the issue I was having BUT later when doing some additional testing, I noticed large voltage swings on the power supply output voltages. These should be somewhere around plus and minus 14 volts or so and I was seeing up to 30 volts. I was surprised nothing was damaged downstream from this but everything continued to work. To fix the voltage swings, I found that the 2 zener diodes in the power supply were bad (D4 & D5). These are 15 volt zeners and used to regulate the voltage output of the power supply. I also replaced R85, R90, R83, & R89 with slightly larger wattage versions to help deal with the high heat they generate. The capacitors replaced are as follows (C35, C36, C38, C37, C39, C18, C13, C16, C17, C9, C12, C3, C5, C8). Not all of these capacitors were bad, but several were. They are pretty cheap so as preventative measure its easy to just replace them all at once. I did not replace the 2 large power supply caps C33 & C34 because they were fine and I could not find a simple drop-in replacement. Adding small heat sinks to Q17 & Q18 would not be a bad idea but I did not do that on mine. Those transistors do get pretty hot during normal operation. I think heatsinks would increase their lifespan considerably. I also replaced R84 & R86 in the power supply as a preventative measure. When replacing capacitors, its a good idea to use a decent brand for reliability such as Panasonic or Nichicon. Good luck!
Thank you kindly for sharing! After ceasing emitting bass tones, I inspected the board and sas dark spots in the power supply area. After changing the capacitors you mentioned, everything works fine! Thank you once again! Bart, Leiden, the Netherlands
Hi, I'm Having Klipsch R-12SW Subwoofer. the issue is there is no output. I had tested the Speaker its good. then checked power is good. I keep it auto mode, and when signal pass it turns LED light on. can you help me out to resolve this issue. where and what other component to check there are many surface mount Cap and resistors. also there are no any over heating sign. Thank you
I just bought a melon from someone online they said it worked but ince i got it home i realized it didnt and they did a dhoddybrepair to the speaker aswell. Anyways i removed the screws holding the amp in but it wont come out i dont understand it. Is lnt it just the perimeter torx screws that need to be removed im starting to think he glued it from the inside
@clinthipfner6042 I seem to recall the first time removing the plate did take some effort and then it suddenly broke loose. An oversized screw threaded into one or two of the vacant plate holes might give you something to grab and pull on. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
Hello. I ordered all of the parts for this project from Digi-Key, but you can get them from other vendors as well. If you fill in this order form and mail it to them with a check, they will ship the order for free. www.digikey.com/-/media/PDF/Help/Order%20Form/order-form_en-US.pdf?la=en
I removed the 10 screws around the perimeter of my KSW-10’s back plate, but cannot get the plate off the unit. Seems to be additionally secured. Don’t see a way to pry the plate off. Any suggestions?
Hello Chris. With mine, there was only the 10 plate screws holding it in place. You could try running a thin piece of plastic around the perimeter of the plate and possibly lightly tap on it in various locations with something like a rubber mallet to get it loose. Unless yours is a slightly different variation of the one in the video, I'm not sure what else would be preventing it from coming off. Let me know if you have any other questions and good luck.
@@vintageav Thanks; I’ll try that. Another reference said that, in addition to the screws, the plate is secured with an adhesive and that a solid yank will cause the plate to come off; however, there’s nothing to yank other than the power cord. 😬
@Chris Waters I seem to recall the first time removing the plate did take some effort and then it suddenly broke loose. An oversized screw threaded into one or two of the vacant plate holes might give you something to grab and pull on. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
@@vintageav Using an oversized screw is a good idea! I found your video because of searching how to disassemble the KSW-10. While preparing to move my KSW-10 to another area of the room, I noticed on the back of the unit that the plastic ‘cone' just inside the opening has become completely detached from the opening itself. The subwoofer seems to be working OK but I don't recall the cone looking like that when setting up the unit years ago. It looks like the glue that secured the cone to the opening has simply given out. Removing the woofer from the bottom of the unit would seem to give me direct access to the cone so as to re-glue it to the opening. Just not sure how wise it is to remove the woofer. 🤷🏻♂️
@@ChrisWaters I have the same issue with the cone in the back appearing to have become "unglued". Did you find a way to fix this and if so, could you share that information?
Hello. I believe R83 & R89 are 620 ohm and R85 & R90 are 430 ohm. I replaced all of them with 5 Watt versions (I believe the originals were in the 3 watt range) because they would get so hot and I wanted to ensure the new ones would live a long life.... Also, the color code on the R83 seemed wrong based on the measured value of 620 ohm. The colors were Green/Red/Brown/Gold which correlates to 520 ohm which is not a standard value resistor. I'm thinking the color code was either wrong from manufacturing or it changed over time with the high heat from Blue to Green. Blue/Red/Brown is 620 ohm which made more sense based on my measurement reading so I went with that and they worked fine. 430 ohm part # PNP5WVJR-73-430R. 620 ohm part # PNP5WVJR-73-620R. If you order these through Digi-Key, you can get FREE shipping if you place your order through the mail (US Postal Service) and send them a check. I have done this several times and had no issues. It has saved me a lot in shipping costs. Also please note, it is possible there are other versions of this circuit for this model of sub, so please confirm the part values yourself before swapping anything out. Thank you for your comment.
@@vintageav okey thanks for your input and explanation of information, it has given me a lot of insight. My Resistors R83-R89: Color code; Green- Red-Brown-Gold give me with the Multimeter only 300-Ohm, when i use one of those online multimeter checker it gives me 520-Ohm 5%, and Resistor R90-R85: Color code; Yellow-Red-Brown-Gold give me with the Multimeter only 220-Ohm, and when i use the online chgeck multimeter it give me 420-Ohm, i think you r right about those manufacturing. so i need to change all of the four Resistors.
Hola. Los condensadores, diodos, resistencias y componentes comunes como los que normalmente puede encontrar en un proveedor como Digi-key o Mouser, pero los transformadores pueden ser difíciles de localizar. Si hay algún número de pieza en el transformador, puede usarlo para buscar uno nuevo en uno de los proveedores anteriores o buscar en Ebay. Si busca en Ebay, ingrese el número de modelo del subwoofer o el transformador y use la palabra transformador en su búsqueda. Algunas personas desarman las unidades y venden todo individualmente en Ebay, así que seguro que buscaría allí. Gracias por el comentario y suerte con tu reparación.
Big Problems with the New RP1600 subwoofers they did Not get the mosfets to protect when overheating are overdriving is introduced the video below will explain exactly what is going on.
Hello Jon. I'm sorry but I only work on equipment that I own since this is only a hobby for me at this point. Thanks for the interest and I hope you are able to get some help for your amp.
@@vintageav shoot, totally get it. Just figured since you knew what to look for and have successfully fixed yours, it would be extra cash. Let me know if you change your mind
I repaired the same subwoofer using your video. I replaced C37 and C38 with 470uF caps and C35 and C36 with 47uF. All are Panasonic FC series. I also unsoldered R85, R90, R89, R83, and soldered wires to them, then covered the solder joints and resistors with heatshrink. I mounted the resistors to the black heatsink (3:12) and soldered the other end of the wires to the PCB in the places where the resistors were. Doing this will keep the heat away from the capacitors.
I did this while visiting family in the US. I happened to bring some 470uF and 47uF caps with me. I didn't have time to order any replacements for the other ones before i had to go back to the UK.
The best and most power efficient way would be to use a second small 15-0-15 VAC transformer, build a rectifier and smoothing circuit on stripboard then connect the output to the voltage regulator on the original board. Ive done this mod to other amplifiers that had the same ovetheating problem. What they should do is have another winding or taps on the transformer for +/-15V and +5V. Much more efficient.
Wow! You went above and beyond anything I did. Nice mods! I did find the zeners were also bad after the initial cap replacement so replaced those. I also put in some higher wattage resistors. Probably should have added some individual heat sinks to the 2 transistors next to them as well but just left them alone. Yes, like you mentioned, the design is not the best. They must have put penny pinching over reliability on this one... Thanks for your comment!
I'm fighting similar issues on a KSW-10 with identical dark spots on the board. My particular sub still somehow functioned mostly normal outside of an occasional (but extremely annoying) loud thump on power-on. Hoping I caught it in time. I only wish there was a full list of the components you replaced, one way or another this has been a huge help. Thank you!
@jeepxj1988 I replaced several parts in this unit beyond the capacitors. The caps did fix the issue I was having BUT later when doing some additional testing, I noticed large voltage swings on the power supply output voltages. These should be somewhere around plus and minus 14 volts or so and I was seeing up to 30 volts. I was surprised nothing was damaged downstream from this but everything continued to work. To fix the voltage swings, I found that the 2 zener diodes in the power supply were bad (D4 & D5). These are 15 volt zeners and used to regulate the voltage output of the power supply. I also replaced R85, R90, R83, & R89 with slightly larger wattage versions to help deal with the high heat they generate. The capacitors replaced are as follows (C35, C36, C38, C37, C39, C18, C13, C16, C17, C9, C12, C3, C5, C8). Not all of these capacitors were bad, but several were. They are pretty cheap so as preventative measure its easy to just replace them all at once. I did not replace the 2 large power supply caps C33 & C34 because they were fine and I could not find a simple drop-in replacement. Adding small heat sinks to Q17 & Q18 would not be a bad idea but I did not do that on mine. Those transistors do get pretty hot during normal operation. I think heatsinks would increase their lifespan considerably. I also replaced R84 & R86 in the power supply as a preventative measure. When replacing capacitors, its a good idea to use a decent brand for reliability such as Panasonic or Nichicon. Good luck!
Thank you kindly for sharing! After ceasing emitting bass tones, I inspected the board and sas dark spots in the power supply area. After changing the capacitors you mentioned, everything works fine!
Thank you once again!
Bart, Leiden, the Netherlands
You are welcome and I'm glad it worked out!
I enjoyed the video. Glad Digi-Key is still around. Thanks for posting, Jeff.
Thank you! I appreciate the comment.
Hi,
I'm Having Klipsch R-12SW Subwoofer. the issue is there is no output.
I had tested the Speaker its good.
then checked power is good.
I keep it auto mode, and when signal pass it turns LED light on.
can you help me out to resolve this issue.
where and what other component to check there are many surface mount Cap and resistors.
also there are no any over heating sign.
Thank you
th-cam.com/video/JA2j1g_1uKM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=AUz28UvpBKSGKPBi
I just bought a melon from someone online they said it worked but ince i got it home i realized it didnt and they did a dhoddybrepair to the speaker aswell. Anyways i removed the screws holding the amp in but it wont come out i dont understand it. Is lnt it just the perimeter torx screws that need to be removed im starting to think he glued it from the inside
@clinthipfner6042 I seem to recall the first time removing the plate did take some effort and then it suddenly broke loose. An oversized screw threaded into one or two of the vacant plate holes might give you something to grab and pull on. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
Thank you for the video can you please said were did you get the capacitors and the values
Hello. I ordered all of the parts for this project from Digi-Key, but you can get them from other vendors as well. If you fill in this order form and mail it to them with a check, they will ship the order for free.
www.digikey.com/-/media/PDF/Help/Order%20Form/order-form_en-US.pdf?la=en
I removed the 10 screws around the perimeter of my KSW-10’s back plate, but cannot get the plate off the unit. Seems to be additionally secured. Don’t see a way to pry the plate off. Any suggestions?
Hello Chris. With mine, there was only the 10 plate screws holding it in place. You could try running a thin piece of plastic around the perimeter of the plate and possibly lightly tap on it in various locations with something like a rubber mallet to get it loose. Unless yours is a slightly different variation of the one in the video, I'm not sure what else would be preventing it from coming off. Let me know if you have any other questions and good luck.
@@vintageav Thanks; I’ll try that. Another reference said that, in addition to the screws, the plate is secured with an adhesive and that a solid yank will cause the plate to come off; however, there’s nothing to yank other than the power cord. 😬
@Chris Waters I seem to recall the first time removing the plate did take some effort and then it suddenly broke loose. An oversized screw threaded into one or two of the vacant plate holes might give you something to grab and pull on. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
@@vintageav Using an oversized screw is a good idea!
I found your video because of searching how to disassemble the KSW-10. While preparing to move my KSW-10 to another area of the room, I noticed on the back of the unit that the plastic ‘cone' just inside the opening has become completely detached from the opening itself. The subwoofer seems to be working OK but I don't recall the cone looking like that when setting up the unit years ago. It looks like the glue that secured the cone to the opening has simply given out.
Removing the woofer from the bottom of the unit would seem to give me direct access to the cone so as to re-glue it to the opening. Just not sure how wise it is to remove the woofer. 🤷🏻♂️
@@ChrisWaters I have the same issue with the cone in the back appearing to have become "unglued". Did you find a way to fix this and if so, could you share that information?
Do you knnow how much Volt / watt are thosr resistor close to the mosfet, they are R83 R85 R89 R90
Hello. I believe R83 & R89 are 620 ohm and R85 & R90 are 430 ohm. I replaced all of them with 5 Watt versions (I believe the originals were in the 3 watt range) because they would get so hot and I wanted to ensure the new ones would live a long life.... Also, the color code on the R83 seemed wrong based on the measured value of 620 ohm. The colors were Green/Red/Brown/Gold which correlates to 520 ohm which is not a standard value resistor. I'm thinking the color code was either wrong from manufacturing or it changed over time with the high heat from Blue to Green. Blue/Red/Brown is 620 ohm which made more sense based on my measurement reading so I went with that and they worked fine. 430 ohm part # PNP5WVJR-73-430R. 620 ohm part # PNP5WVJR-73-620R. If you order these through Digi-Key, you can get FREE shipping if you place your order through the mail (US Postal Service) and send them a check. I have done this several times and had no issues. It has saved me a lot in shipping costs. Also please note, it is possible there are other versions of this circuit for this model of sub, so please confirm the part values yourself before swapping anything out. Thank you for your comment.
@@vintageav okey thanks for your input and explanation of information, it has given me a lot of insight.
My Resistors R83-R89: Color code; Green- Red-Brown-Gold give me with the Multimeter only 300-Ohm, when i use one of those online multimeter checker it gives me 520-Ohm 5%, and Resistor R90-R85: Color code; Yellow-Red-Brown-Gold give me with the Multimeter only 220-Ohm, and when i use the online chgeck multimeter it give me 420-Ohm, i think you r right about those manufacturing. so i need to change all of the four Resistors.
Hola donde se consiguen repuestos como el transformador ?
Hola. Los condensadores, diodos, resistencias y componentes comunes como los que normalmente puede encontrar en un proveedor como Digi-key o Mouser, pero los transformadores pueden ser difíciles de localizar. Si hay algún número de pieza en el transformador, puede usarlo para buscar uno nuevo en uno de los proveedores anteriores o buscar en Ebay. Si busca en Ebay, ingrese el número de modelo del subwoofer o el transformador y use la palabra transformador en su búsqueda. Algunas personas desarman las unidades y venden todo individualmente en Ebay, así que seguro que buscaría allí. Gracias por el comentario y suerte con tu reparación.
@@vintageav gracias espero encontrar el transformador pero esta difícil
Big Problems with the New RP1600 subwoofers they did Not get the mosfets to protect when overheating are overdriving is introduced the video below will explain exactly what is going on.
Big Problems. th-cam.com/video/JA2j1g_1uKM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=AUz28UvpBKSGKPBi
th-cam.com/video/JA2j1g_1uKM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=AUz28UvpBKSGKPBi
Great video
Awesome video, thank you for sharing. I have learned something new today. 👍
Would you consider repairing my amp if i shipped it to you? I would cover costs and compensate you for your time.
Hello Jon. I'm sorry but I only work on equipment that I own since this is only a hobby for me at this point. Thanks for the interest and I hope you are able to get some help for your amp.
@@vintageav shoot, totally get it. Just figured since you knew what to look for and have successfully fixed yours, it would be extra cash. Let me know if you change your mind
th-cam.com/video/JA2j1g_1uKM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=AUz28UvpBKSGKPBi