the greatest thing to me is that a community member, made his own version and andy building upon it coming full circle, I wish this happens more often with our projects!
When soldering surface mount components, when you pre solder the pads just do one pad then lay the component and heat the leg to the pad while orienting it. That's fine for components with few legs. For chips with lots of legs do not pre solder and use kapton tape across the chip...
@@andywest5773 Awesome, it may be a while because I will wait until picos aren't in the shorter supplies they have been in. I do have 2 or 3 gameboy donor boards I've been saving.
Input delay seems minimal but I haven't done any real tests. Also haven't tried it with the Elgato, but I would expect it to work since it's not using any weird resolutions or timing or anything.
Is there a particular advantage to using the low-temp solder to desolder things? Does it work better under certain circumstances, etc.? So far I've been using a hot air station to desolder, and haven't had any issues, but I haven't yet had to desolder anything with as many legs as those Game Boy chips. Also, I've tried drag soldering with the chisel-style tip that you used, and found that it doesn't really work that well. IMHO this the wrong kind of tip for drag soldering. The tip that I have found works really well is what I call the "hoof" tip. Not sure if that's the official technical name for them. Basically it's a tip that has one flat face at a (roughly) 45 degree angle. You blob some solder onto the flat part, then slide it over the pins (applying flux beforehand, of course.) Works a treat.
I find low-temp solder much easier for chip removal than the 60/40 stuff I usually use. I don't own a hot air station, but I expect that desoldering with an iron has the benefit of keeping heat localized more easily. I've seen the iron tips you're talking about, but I don't have one. I'll pick one up next time I buy replacement tips.
Another element14 Community member has recreated Andy's build - see pictures here: bit.ly/48SoMKc
the greatest thing to me is that a community member, made his own version and andy building upon it coming full circle, I wish this happens more often with our projects!
Yes!
I'm here from a redit post featuring this build. This looks great! Thank you for sharing!
When soldering surface mount components, when you pre solder the pads just do one pad then lay the component and heat the leg to the pad while orienting it. That's fine for components with few legs. For chips with lots of legs do not pre solder and use kapton tape across the chip...
Good tips!
Nice work. I appreciate that you showed your mistakes along the way.
Welcome back Andy. Love yr videos.
What an amazing project! Nice work!!
I would definitely do this project. Maybe a passces order list from laser or digikey would make it easier so we don't have sizing issues.
I genuinely do not know why I still use auto correct. I meant passive order list and jameco or digikey
You can find a bill of materials at the link in the description. Let us know if you build it. We'd love to hear about it!
@@andywest5773 Awesome, it may be a while because I will wait until picos aren't in the shorter supplies they have been in. I do have 2 or 3 gameboy donor boards I've been saving.
Thanks Andy Excellent Video
Cool machine you built there! Great project. Does this work with Elgato capture devices? Input Delay?
Input delay seems minimal but I haven't done any real tests. Also haven't tried it with the Elgato, but I would expect it to work since it's not using any weird resolutions or timing or anything.
This would be so cool to own i thought it was something that I could buy.
Is there a particular advantage to using the low-temp solder to desolder things? Does it work better under certain circumstances, etc.? So far I've been using a hot air station to desolder, and haven't had any issues, but I haven't yet had to desolder anything with as many legs as those Game Boy chips.
Also, I've tried drag soldering with the chisel-style tip that you used, and found that it doesn't really work that well. IMHO this the wrong kind of tip for drag soldering. The tip that I have found works really well is what I call the "hoof" tip. Not sure if that's the official technical name for them. Basically it's a tip that has one flat face at a (roughly) 45 degree angle. You blob some solder onto the flat part, then slide it over the pins (applying flux beforehand, of course.) Works a treat.
I find low-temp solder much easier for chip removal than the 60/40 stuff I usually use. I don't own a hot air station, but I expect that desoldering with an iron has the benefit of keeping heat localized more easily.
I've seen the iron tips you're talking about, but I don't have one. I'll pick one up next time I buy replacement tips.
This is so much smaller, yet the fact the cartridges don't go in all the way upsets me.
Hello, would this work with the gameboy color? Or maybe gameboy advance?
Not going to lie, I was cringing the entire time I was watching this.