118 - Jointer Setup
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Setting up and calibrating a jointer as well as a quick review of several knife-setting jigs.
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I use to adjust my equipment pretty much the same way and it did take a while. Until one day and old machinist told me to take my measurements directly over the adjustment cams/bolts. This not only cut my adjustment time down, biy the accuracy in each adjustment was finer than the previously used method Each contact point can be thought of as a fulcrum on a leaver and does not move up and down only rocks over the contact point when the other adjusters are moved. Hope this tip helps you guys in the future. Have a good day...
Care to elaborate? Seems interesting
@@rickhickman2730 He did rick.
@@tomsuica8731 ... I think I was hoping for a bit more of an explanation than what he posted. I wasn't saying he didn't elaborate, I was just hoping for some more clarity because I obviously didn't understand. Now that it has been TWO YEARS since my comment, I'm glad to say I have enough experience to understand what the tips mean. But thank you for commenting at this point, it reminded me of this post and now I can appreciate it
@@rickhickman2730 Rick how can he elaborate more then he already did?
@@tomsommer54You seem so smart. Please elaborate your superior intelligence.
One trick i learned from the machinist side of tradeswork that might be helpful to people is screw pitch and adjustments made by turning an adjustment screw. If you know the thread pitch of the machine screw you can find charts or do the math to determine how much a screw moves per rotation and therein even down to a degree of rotation. Its a handy method for larger thread sizes in semi-precise things like mechanic work but with fine tolerance small machine screws you can get an idea of how much to turn an adjustment screw to get a certain amount of movement. It doesn't replace an accurate measurement but can be a time saver to make adjustments that are close or where you make sure you don't go too far and have to start over. Like if you have a 6 or-8-32 adjustment screw its .031" per rotation. So if you need to go up 4 thou (.004) then turning that screw 45 degrees will put you right there. Now there is some slop between tool and screw and tolerance for error in the manufacturing so you can't just turn 45 degrees and walk away but you know that you're around 1/8 turn away and can adjust accordingly to sneak up on your measurement and know that adding a quarter turn is going to be way too much. All the screws in an adjustment like your jointer blade height are the same and something you'll do with some frequency so taking the time to print out a chart or remember a couple benchmarks like 1/8, 1/4 turn and so on can save you time when adjusting several screws per blade per time you adjust them.
Great information not available in such depth anywhere else. Anywhere. Thanks mark, much appreciated.
Two twelve-inch right-angle drafting triangles ($6/ea) can offer a plausible alternative to an expensive long straight edge to check and adjust parallelism. With a triangle placed on each table flat against the fence, twelve-inch edge down, and the two triangles brought together over the cutterhead, parallel tables will bring the triangles evenly together along the entire vertical line. Any lack of parallelism will show as a gap between the triangles, increasing from the point of contact.
I got an 8" jointer and planer, bought it for 100 bucks. Required a new motor, which I found for 25 bucks. Then a disassembly, cleaning and reassembly. Now I got a working jointer and planer for much less than if I had bought new. I always recommend old iron if you are somewhat competent (or just willing to learn). It's a reward in itself. Only way I could afford tools like this personally.
Bought a Powermatic 6" jointer on craigslist, brought it home and used your video to set the new blades with the one way multi gauge. With the help of your video the process went relatively smooth and I now have perfectly level blades. Thanks for the tutorial.
Note for beginners: This is the first jointer I have owned and the first time I have ever set blades.
If I can do it. You can to.
Hello WW
Got my new oneway-multi tool and by far it is the tool to use for aligning jointer knifes than all other tools and method I have tried over the years. I did hone the back of the knifes to minimize movement when tightining the gib screws and using the oneway muti-gauge I was able to align all the knifes within .001 higher than the outfeed table and across each knife with confidence. The results are amazing to the point that when I left the jointed wood surface on the jointer surface I felt resistance when I tried to pick up the wood piece.
No longer afraid to change my jointer knifes or spending hours only to end up with poor results.
Thank you again for taking the time to post this and other videos,
A.J
Great video. I use the A-line it system and am very happy with it as well. One thing I have found that is not mentioned in your video is the blade height adjustment screw tops smoothness. I found on my jointer that the screw tops had ridges and burrs which significantly effected blade height with the slightest turn, I took all of the screws out and lightly polished them on a diamond hone until they were smooth, which makes a huge difference when adjusting the blades.
I just got a used jointer and had all kind of problems with it. It worked near flawlessly when I tried it before i bought it, but the 50 mile car trip homebmust have thrown the tables out of wack. I was very frustrated. Thank you so much for your detailed explanation of how to properly set it up.
Your wife is funny. Man does that jointer setup look very intimidating and difficult. Thanks for all of your hard work trying to help us.
@MrBorisKGB That's the kind of success stories I like to hear!! Thanks for the feedback and glad to hear you are enjoying your new old jointer. :)
Excellent explanation. When each of the four adjustments affect each other, it’s said that they are not ortho normal. Frustrating as hell, but you explained it very well. Thanks.
Paul
The hallmark of a great teacher is a great communicator. Learnt a lot from your methods. Btw, I have the same jointer and use the Oneway Multi Gauge to set up my jointer. Thanks for the info.
This is the best explanation I ever got. Thank you for this. May I also congratulate you're a good talker !! Never eu or silence.
Sorry im sure my comment may be hard to understand at first but read it a few times and you should get it since you like the blade setup of the hefty dial indicator and you like the budget system. I noticed a hole in the end of your straight edge how about making a block to bolt to the end of straight edge to mount a dial indicator to then you could zero your indicator on the end of straight edge move it to all your corners and know how far it out all without leaving the one side of the table when your done on table go to your blades and adjust the all with one tool with one setup making it more accurate the hole time hopefully you understand what im saying and its just a thought
Most of the other videos on jointer setup talk almost exclusively about setting the blade height, only one of the things that must be done for this operation.
Thanks, Marc, for covering how to get the tables co-planar, or rather the importance of doing so. My machine's design is very different from your "Oh-So-Fine" Powermatic, but the principles remain the same.
Hello,
Thank you for posting this video on jointer setup. I had exactly the same experience when trying to setup my powermatic 8" jointer using jointer pal and it was a very frustrating experience. I followed the instructions provided and the results were disappointing especially with all the hours that I spent. For a while, I thought I am still doing something wrong but your video proves that the tool is no good as the magnet is not strong enough against the undesired movement that you get when tighting the gibs.
Ordered the oneway multi gauge tool from Amazon and can hardly wait ti try it. Regardless, i am never going back to jointer pal.
Thank you again and look forward to watching more great woodworking videos on your channel
A.J
Wish I had found this video a while back.. one of the earlier ones indeed, I just missed it. Thank you for the way you explained ! Time to revisit my jointer setup.
I know this is an old video but wanted to say it encouraged me. Been very frustrated with my first jointer setup and this has given me courage that maybe it’s possible lol
I purchased the powermatic 6" jointer and it came in with a warped fence. It took a while to understand this since I was a total beginner and not sure what was going on. The infeed side was perfect square to the table, but the outfeed part of the fence was warped just enough to create problems. The tables were not twisted or anything. Just the fence. Again, I was very much a beginning woodworker so I called the company and was very surprised at what I was told. I talked to a guy who sounded like he just fell of the turnip truck and he said they would not fix the problem by replacing the fence or machining. He told me to take the fence off and stand on it, like jumping on it, and that will straighten it out and should be good enough. Interesting, sounds like a precision method which is actually in the documentation. To send the machine back would cost about 1/3rd of the price at the time. So I struggled with it thinking I could come up with a way to flatten the fence but finally could only do face cuts with it and used my friends Grizzly jointer for edges. I thought powermatic was supposed to be the best which would include customer service. I see he is sponsored or has a lot of their machinery. I personally wouldn't buy a screwdriver if it said powermatic on it. So I'd like to see more videos, for beginners like I was, to address something like a warped fence or table (which should be extremely rare but I'm lucky) and how to fix it because the factory will not. Or just tell everyone this is common on any chinese made junk and good luck because you are on your own. The truth will set you free. Well, I hope this helps beginners with their first big purchases. Maybe the trick is to only buy locally where they can ensure the machine is right and then deliver it. And go through the setup with them. Or ask the factory or seller what if? Well, I'm sure the woodwhisperer's fence did not come in warped. Hope this helps! Good Luck!
Awesome information and tutorial. Thank you for sharing this with us, stay safe, happy and healthy, from Henrico County Virginia
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. These presentations help me understand the machine and the process.
6 year old video , but it doesn't matter. Its full of useful information. The bit about setting the outfeed table height to just below the blades has now made my jointer produce excellent results Thank you
Deb Morris is
I'm a bit late to the table but better late than never! Amazing job! I'm a fan now!
Very detailed approach to setting up a jointer.
Fantastic tutorial. First one I found that addresses the front-to-back alignment. Plus knowing to adjust front-back near blades first, then address the ends of the I feed table.
Dude, I used your video to set up my Jet 6" jointer and it came out MONEY. Great video.
@Musicmansterling17 I have a helical head on my planer and it absolutely rocks. Its more expensive, but well worth the investment in my opinion. It will be a very long time before I need to resharpen. I only have to turn each insert 90 degrees to expose a fresh brand new edge. And if they get nicked and all sides are dull, its easy enough to pop a new one in.
How does the setup process change with a helical head? I have a HH jointer in order.
Does a helical head help with snipe?
@@victorapodaca679 no, it does not. If you’re getting snipe at the end of the board, your outfeed table is too low and needs to be raised.
"how fast this goes depends a little on luck". Dude, I needed to hear that, ten years later.
@pondosonatra Nothing. You are right, there would definitely be a slight twist. But the key is to measure at multiple points along the straight edge so that you get the best approximation possible.
@avman2cl Excellent question! I suppose if it were me, I would use the magnetic jig as well here. That will help you get the knives set pretty close to where you need them. Then I would selectively loosen the screws holding the knives in place to try to nudge the knives up and down as needed. Depending on the setup you can loosen all but one and the knife should pivot to some extent. Still not an easy task, but should be doable.
Hi Marc, I have been very frustrated with the unsatisfactory results from my jointer. I had been sold the MLCS 9327 blade setting tool by the shop that sold the jointer I own. I just couldn't get an even setting for the blades. Being my first jointer, I assumed the problem was me. Having watched your video, the Oneway seemed a logical solution. It's not available in Australia so I ordered it from Oneway and having tuned the infeed table and set the blades, everything now is perfect! Rgds Doug
This is just a suggestion but what about using a Laser projected 15 ft away against a wall marking each position on the wall than bring the others to the that mark, what is a thou at 18 inches is much larger at a longer distance, you could even use two lasers at the same time.
also no more feeler gauge guessing and thanks for this video I had no clue about how to even start on setting up a jointer table
I would invest in 4 micrometers, and by some means get them positioned on the 4 corners, that way you get live feedback from every move you make (ofcourse reference it first from the outfeed table) and make the process that much easier and not to mention 10 times faster. But now I learned that I need to check my I feed table for correct positioning.
just picked up a 1955 toolkraft 4 1/2" jointer ... this video was very helpful... thanks!
Thomas, how is your 4 1/2" working out for you?
Great explanation, thank you. We just got our first jointer so this information will come in handy.
Hello Marc, I have seen many videos about jointers, but I consider that yogur video is the best. Have you considered putting this tutorial in Spanish? It Will be awesome.
Greetings from Honduras
Beforehand, many thanks.
Nice video, however I am from the other side of the fence. I am a retired Tool & Die Maker, so naturally the first thing I go for is my dial indicators. Everything else is better than nothing, but an indicator will tell you everything. And like you said, a few thousandth of an inch can make a world of difference in the finish you get on the wood.
@fonitrus Cost is definitely reason not to use two real straight edges. And if you can find hardware store aluminum that is as flat as a milled straight edge, then you are right, there is no reason not buy the stuff. I honestly can't say I have check it before. I just assumed it was unlikely that any of the L-brackets would actually but in the range of +/- -003. Again, never tried it so I don't know. But an interesting option.
@naliuj Sure is. I love my Clear Vue. But it was just brought to my attention recently that they are closing their doors. So, unless you already have one on order, they won't be available anymore.
@kevinhenry61 Hey Kevin. Thanks man. The trick is having a director's account. But I am not sure what the current status is since TH-cam has changed the rules a few times. I just know I was grandfathered in.
Man, you guys did a great job with this vid..thanks.
I have a PM 60 that's 20 years old; it's a fine machine and I'm considering an upgrade to a helical cutter head. It looks like one of these eliminates the troublesome and time consuming knife setup. I have the magnetic setup jig like you have but find a dial indicator is much more accurate. Mine is mounted on one of those magnetic blocks like machinists use.
Thanks Mark, but now I have to go out and buy a jointer! Nicole is hilarious in the outakes. :)
Marc,
Thank you very much for this video! I have a Craftsman Professional 6" Jointer and was getting horrible results ever since I bought it (used). You were right, I really was starting to think that I was doing something wrong.
Didn't have a "one way" gauge but a $12 dial indicator from Harbor Freight, a Combination square and a c-clamp worked fairly well. The only problem was having to hold the square down to the table since the weight of the c-clamp would topple it. Jointer works great now!
You are a very good communicator
Just my OCD kicking in here, but the only time the infeed and outfeed tables are coplanar is when they adjusted to the identical height. In other words, when your straight edge is lying flat on both. Once you drop the infeed table down to make a cut, they are no longer coplanar - they are parallel. Just to be nit-picky... sorry ;)
Thank you very much I thought I wasted my money on a jointer and your information was very helpful and brought it back to life.
Thank you for the detailed video. I can't wait to start making adjustments to my jointer because I have not had the best luck with it. I just bought some magnets to help set the knives (bought the magnets before I saw your video). Since the knives should be a little higher than the out feed table, I will try putting some thin paper between the magnets and the out feed table and see if this works.
Whenever I need to setup my jointer... I come back here to refresh my mind on the procedure :-) the only point where I m not totally in line is regarding the precision in the use of a ruler to set the blade height. From calculation and actual measurements, for my ~2.5” inch cutter head i get a variance of
Thanks so much. I've been trying to setup my jointer I just bought so this helps a lot. I ordered my dial indicator and it will be here soon. Thanks again!!!
Very well done! Super clear, but not overly complicated. Thank You!
Good explanation. not seen the machine in India best way of bed setting with tight fit.
I like the method for checking table vs blade height, however on my much older jointer the adjustments are done with set screws from the underside. I also need to check infeed and outfeed for matching level.
Hey Marc. Great tutorial. Thank you.
I'm from Peru, and when checking out the main woodworking machinery manufacturers catalogs from the USA, I tend to think their prices are quite low compared to the prices here in Peru. Also, their quality is quite higher in terms of looks and features.
I got a 12 inches cast iron jointer and it costed so much I had to buy it without its motor. I now recently bought a motor for it. (3HP high rpm)
I would definitely recommend avoiding a 6" jointer. It's just too narrow. Here in Peru, manufacturers don't make jointers 6 inches wide. The ones 6 inches wide are imported from China and are small, portable ones.
Cheers from Peru!
How would I approach doing this procedure on an older vintage machine for which there may not be those four cams OR an existing manual that explains the nuts and bolts of the machine?
Maybe I missed it, but did you check the outfeed table was parallel to the cutter head first? This would make the most sense to me as the cutterhead is not adjustable, just the knives.
I'm new to woodworking but that was my first thought as well. Understand that you want the infeed and outfeed tables to be co-planer, but if those two are not co-planer to the cutterhead width, won't all of your passes over the cutterhead be off?
Well documented, and very concise instructions. HOWEVER, I must take exception to your statement that the outfeed table is never adjusted after initial setup. As you showed, the front left corner of the infeed table was .004 high. But how do you know that was not because the outfeed table was not .004 low on the front side? It seems to me that if the outfeed table was dropped .004 on the entire front side (close to cutterhead and at the far end of it too), then the INFEED table will show .012 out on the front AND back side. Of course, the far end of the infeed table would then be out .025 on the back and theoretically .021 on the front. And of course, this is an indication that the tables are not ground perfectly coplanar. Is this sound theory, or am I not seeing this correctly?
just busting your chops brother i do enjoy watching i do comercial all day and traditional at night i thank you for your vidieos
Thanks for the speedy reply "WOOD WHISPERER". What kind of problems arise when the blades are too high at the outfeed table, I mean with the wood you are jointing. When I put the wood together for glue-up there is some snipe at the ends and there is not a tight fit along the length of the boards.
this needs more views and thumbs
Would the oneway multi-guage still be the appropriate tool if a cutter head does not have jack screws? I have an industrial quality grizzly and I'm surprised that it doesn't have the jack screws.
Another way to check for table sag is to use two twelve-inch drafting triangles placed vertically and flat against the fence to meet over the jointer cutterhead. If the vertical edges meet uniformly over the cutterhead (checked front and back), the tables do not sag relative to each other. If a dial indicator confirms the tables at the same relative elevation across the cutterhead (checked front and back), the tables are coplanar.
I will be setting up a new parallelogram jointer soon, next week to be exact. Could you raise both tables up above the knives so that you’re straight edge can cross both of them , and adjust the infer table parallel to the outfeed table? Then just lower the outfeed table to just above the knife head and the infeed table to where it needs to be. Wouldn’t it be easier than doing it the way you described in the video and not having to fuss with clamping the straight edge?
That’s essentially what I do in the video. 😊 Though there may be no reason to raise the outfeed table if you can rotate the head so the blades aren’t providing above the table surface.
Excellent explanation, just wish my jointer had some of those adjustments.
Thank you for the excellent, in-depth video. I learned a great deal!
Why no link to the gauges?
I've had nothing but issues from one of grizzly industrial products. My wife and I drove over 5 hours, and spent over $1200 at the Grizzly showroom in Missouri. Honestly the showroom is amazing. The product I got...not so much. I've had over 10 separate issues including defective, and back ordered parts sent to me. Grizzly did offer me $100 to keep the pos 😂😂😂. I like high quality tools, and won't hesitate to spend the money on them. SCM, felder, festool, saw stop etc. I like decent hand tools such as snap on, Milwaukee, dewalt, and I even think husky is decent due to being able to swap tools easily when they break one the job. We even have some harbor freight tools that I think are very very good. My experience with grizzly has been that of a dollar store drill press. Not to mention they will not post my review on their actual website.
Enjoyed the video, Very informative. I like the way you explain the information!!
I have been learning a lot about woodworking from your videos.
any chance for an update on the tips and tricks of tuning up the joiners?
I noticed that this video is a few years old.
FYI. I just purchased the 60HH powermatic.
thanks
Still a great tutorial. Thank you for this, very clear and helpful video. I love my OneWay gauge!
Great video. Very helpful. Only suggestion would be to include links in your description to products being used. Hard to find their names in the video if i was interested in purchasing them.
excellent video....great demo and instructional .........I just had one question...how is it even possible for the infeed and outfeed table to be out of synch. In your case you have a planer/jointer thats super heavy and sturdy.....it shouldnt move one millionth of an inch......lol but yet it does.....thank you again for the great video....
A lot of great info thanks
@jawadsaadi I don't have a picture to show you, although my Powermatic manual does have a few images. You can download a pdf manual from their website if you want. Generally, you will wind up with a concave or convex board. Try as hard as you want, but you'll never get the board to be flat.... Very annoying.
Thank you for taking your time to do your videos. i enjoy them. and i am proud to have you as a FaceBook friend.
Hi Marc, Did you have a video called "Why is the jointer jumping", I'm sharpening mine now & am going to post a vid which includes me sharpening it, as it was your vid that helped me get it set up many moons ago i thought I'd add a link to your vid in the description, & you make a far better vid about it, If that's ok?
I don't know the rules about that sort of thing so thought I'd better ask 😉
Excellent instruction! Thank you!
Before I ask my question, I'd like to say that I've watched and learned and laughed from your videos for longer than I've realized. Thank you for that. I also discovered I'm a d-bag because I'm not subscribed to you at the moment. So, to perpetuate the machine, I'll fix that. For what it's worth though, I never needed a notification to remind me to watch your videos. That's saying something right?
My question is...What is a comfortable and minimal efficient floor space requirement for a 6" long bed jointer? I ordered one and I need to know how to reorganize my mess.
Well thanks for subbing Jim! It's about time! :) As for the jointer, it will likely only occupy 3' from front to back and is a decent candidate for a wall installation, assuming you don't have tools too close to the left and right. So how far do you need to either side? That depends on the longest board you plan to joint. In fact, it doesn't have much to do with the jointer at all since the max distance you need to each side of the cutterhead is the max length of your boards. So if you plan to do a full 8' board at some point, you'll need 8 feet to the left and right of the cutterhead. Most people don't have that kind of space so if that's an issue, put the thing on a mobile base. On the occasions when you need more clearance, pull it out and get to work.
The Wood Whisperer Awesome! Thank you. I appreciate it. Glad I ordered the roller base.
I have knife sets similar to the MLCS 9327. I could be wrong, but I think you may have used these knife sets incorrectly as seen at 25:08. The similar ones that I have are meant to be used off the cutter head itself, this is why the magnets are able to swivel. balancing them between both tables would not give you an accurate setting as it would be very time consuming the get both tables in the exact same location, correct? The particular model I have also has the micro adjust however I prefer to use the feeler gauges between the knife set magnet (middle one) and the cutter head itself to set my depth for my knives (the manufactures of my machine recommended 1.5 mm above the grade of the cutter head). To "0" the knife set you place it on the cutter head so that all 3 magnets are touching the head between 2 of the knife slots in the head or as long as all 3 magnets are able to touch the smooth surface of the cutter head. You then loosen the knife set off, slide whatever feeler gage between the knife set magnet and cutter head you require and tighten to lock it in place ( The utility knife blades I use happen to be .5 mm so I break 3 segments off and place under the knife set magnet witch does the trick. I then move the knife set over the slots that your knives fit into and set my knives. I had my knives in my planer in about 7 min using this method. I then, like you show in this video, use my lee valley straightedge to adjust the out feed table and ensure that my cutter head is set at the proper level. I like to do it this way only because I know my knives are in the cutter head perfectly straight, and I know that my out feed table is perfectly straight if it lines up with with my knives in the cutter head. another thing I love about this style, is that I only had to set my knife sets once and they are always ready to go. Hope what I've said makes sense, Love your show, Keep up the great work !
Diagram : www.blythmachinery.co.uk/prodimages/planerknivessetting_6.jpg
Excellent explanation!
at 3:13 , the only explaination i can give, being a european viewer ( ireland ) ,
is that the main reason why its called a planer / surface planer , is because its doing just that . its planing down wood to achieve a flat level " surface " , hence "surface planer". why its called a jointer in the u.s i'll never know. as a joint is a meeting of 2 woods , example : butt , dovetail etc . this machine does not join anything, so it shouldnt be called a jointer.
confusion solved :)
I’m an American and agree completely. The terms “surface planer” for this tool and “parallel planer” for the other one used to prepare wood are more accurately descriptive of their functions than “jointer” and “planer.” Another minor linguistic point - the indeed and outfeed tables should not be “coplanar.” They should be on parallel planes. Coplanar implies that they share the same plane. If they were, the cut depth would be zero.
excellent video, thanks
Super informative, great tutorial! Although now I’m feeling kinda intimidated about trying to set up this 6 inch joiner I just purchased!
I am Australian, the jointer and planer are different tools. My father ( a carpenter) has always called it a jointer
After you measured the gaps at the four corners of the in-feed table you found .016 and .012 near the blade end and 0.25 and 0.25 at the other end. That would imply that your in-feed table has a twist in it and is not flat, or did I miss something?
Great information. Just a thought but wouldn’t a jig made with say four inexpensive machinists dial gauges speed up the process? Something to think about?
Nope. Any irregularities in the surface will simply be copied or made worse at the planer.
@TheWoodWhisperer
why not use 2 straight edges and clamp them in parrallel so all 4 cams can be adjusted without reclamping. and dicking arround with guessing if the "other side" has shifted and kinda winging it. Sure may be expensive but alot of hardware stores sell aluminium L shaped strips usualy used for windows and other aluminium work.which are as flat as any straigedge proper sold for such purpose and probably at 10th of the cost. If you are still unsure use your straightedge and compare
You adjusted the indeed table on the back fence side counterclockwise and on the front side clockwise..they were both low by 25, so both should have been raised with a clockwise turn??
I’m assuming not all jointers have that 4 point adjustment bolts?
Hi, what about heavily twisted boards? What's the best way to flatten them. Not worrying about thicknesses. In this part of the world all wood twists.
Answers? Thanks much.
hey man learn a lot from u am from Jamaica I buy a 8” powermatic jointer model 60 but it has no cutter head or the housing bearing and it's not available in country need some help getting them straight knife cutter
chatgbt recommended your video on jointer
Excellence setup video. Thanks.
Love your videos. always soo helpful and informative. This video helped me get through a tedious jointer set up for my tables. Awesome!
Question though...in the section of this video describing the additional tooling you purchased to set the knives, you had referenced setting up you planner with the ONEWAY Multi-gage. Have you ever set up your planner and done a video on the HOW-TO using a the dial indicator? Perhaps going over the gotcha points of setting up a planner? By the way, i have a 20" planner so there are the top rollers and the bottom rollers. Id assume that you'd be using the same type of machine (but a Powermatic). Keep up the great work and videos.
Thank you, great video
For setting knives? Yes. As long as it is completely immobilized at the tip.
I didn’t see you replace the blade springs. Did you leave them off or did I miss it? Thanks for the great info and tool recommendation!😎
in your video mentioned the use of the multi gage in a drum sander please if you have a video how i can make the adjustment i will appreciated
BTW, a quick warning to other jointer owners. The adjusters for the infeed and outfeed tables on my jointer are secured from going out of adjustment by grub screws. After some frustrating efforts trying to turn the adjusters, I realised that each grub screw has a 2nd grub screw holding it in place so you need to completely remove the top grub screw to loosen the bottom one. Makes the adjustment so much easier :-P