Getting a mirror that's not gray or cloudy is all about the proper grit progression and removing the prior scratch pattern out with the next stone. If you make too big a jump in grit, its too difficult to hide the deeper scratches from the prior stone. Also helps to use techniques like different scratch direction on each stone. Finishing in the idea direction of course. Alternating directions will allow you to verify the prior scratch pattern was removed more easily.
The SP 5K does not make a true mirror edge. It makes a cloudy mirror. It's the lowest grit finishing stone in the line. I would suggest the glass series over the pros for polishing anyway. and I'd suggest a naniwa superstone over either and basically anything else on the market.
To add what you didn't mention, at least 3 grits are needed, to achive a proper job. let's say a basic of 300 grit/1000 grit(double the passes per side) / 3000 grit(triple the passes per side). Proper stroping and final stage stropping on newspaper,to realign the molecules of the steel, can provide a scary sharp and perfect edge. As I mentioned, the grits I mentioned, are just a typical basic grit selection, the higher the grit, the more you multiply the passes, as also the better mirror finish you get.
Tip for the tip. Use the 4 corners on the stone (the areas the get the least use during sharpening) when you’re working on the tip. Just to get a bit more even distribution of the wear on the stone. Great vid as usual. 😂 Basil!
It’s funny how some people are commenting on these videos as if you have no idea or experience with truly sharp edges. You know as if you haven’t sharpened countless knives/steels on fixed angle systems, oh and then tested them for edge retention. Keep on keepin on Pete, it’s fun to watch you progress and learn!
Really enjoying this series. I'm presently on a similar jag, trying to get proficient at freehanding after decades of half-assing it. Picked up one of those two-sided Sharpals that Alex recommended and I'm quite liking it. Never got on with diamond plates before that. Also got an astounding 400 grit vitrified diamond from Japan. That one is a steel destroyer, in the best way possible.
Did you get the 6" or 8"? I ordered one and didn't see the 8" option. It hasn't gotten here yet but think I'm gonna return it without even opening it, and get the 8".
@@hificat101 I got the 8". You won't be disappointed. Most knives, even exotic steels, it's 1-3 passes per side to raise a burr, provided you're not reprofiling.
Pete. Just wanted to let you know you inspired me to start freehand sharpening. The hardest part for me is not comparing the edges to the ones I got on my KME. I know I have a long way to go still.
yes I really struggled to let go of the ‘must know the angle’ and ‘will this cut as much rope as a KMe edge’ the most. That being said, I finally managed yesterday to match a Kme result freehand which I got into a video up in a couple days ☺️☺️
As someone else pointed out, the Kuromaku 2k is the best stone in the series, and in my case the only one I use. I might use something around 600-1000 to begin honing. After the 2k, the only thing I use is a Japanese natural Suita stone of medium hardness, maybe 7 or 8 out of 10 on a conventional scale that many retailers use. Those stones, when clean (high quality) do everything you need to erase any mid-range marks on light to medium slurry. To finish, they just need the tiniest bit of slurry (some call this trace slurry) and you end up with a shaving edge. They are very expensive stones and rightfully so, as they replace 3 or 4 synthetics and your finishing stone. I’d highly recommend you try one out. It’s super fun
Whatever you do theres always someone to tell you that you did it wrong. My take, as with anything, do whatever works for you, refine whatever method you use, and most importantly, enjoy yourself. Thanks for the video. P.S. Basil Cam is ❤🔥!
Thanks for your content. I find it enjoyable and interesting. I have a 6 set of those Shapton stones and I thought I might offer something to think about to those thinking of buying them or expanding their sets like you mentioned. The most expensive stones in the set are the finer grit stones. I've also found that I end up using the finest grit stones by far the least since their grit range overlaps a lot of the different strops I use. Before you fork over the big bucks on the fine stones carefully consider how you use strops and if you are buying an expensive stone that you might not use as much because you tend to strop a lot. Then again if you never use stops and are a stone purest or just like them and can afford them go right ahead. I think that the range you bought is the best 3 to start with and might be all most will use if they strop most of their blades. Good luck to all!
Ha! I have that exact set of stones. Haven’t tried them yet though, I keep putting it off. (Scared to try the Scandi grind). Loved the cat footage btw.
Cool! Careful with getting a bunch of stones from different brands and made of different abrasives into your progression. A 2K Shapton glass can be as fine as a 3K Naniwa, etc. There isn’t a consistent grit rating, I find, with nearly all of the stones in the market. That’s why folks (myself included) buy an array of stones of a certain model, from a specific manufacturer and use them in a progression of sharpening/ honing. You can achieve great results by mixing them up, but you’ll have to go through a bunch of trial and error; and at times you’ll have stones that achieve a similar finish / cut similarly, after spending hundreds of dollars of ‘em.
I dont think you spent too much time on the coarse stones. These are not fast stones and getting your bevel shaped correctly is really important for this style of sharpening. Most people spend far too little time on coarse stones.
If you translate the package that it comes with, it does recommend soaking the stones 5 to 8 minutes before the first use and then just splash and go after that.
Good film once again. I like how you show, film, your progress and share your thoughts. Also, I like how you make me jumpy. Wiping the blade in your newish hoodie. WD40 onto the strop. Just slapping the stone down in a baking tray, etc. Because, none of those things really matter. If you don't care how your sleeve looks, then why should I care? I can use a rag to wipe my blades with...or more likely; a pant leg! 😂
The Joker of Knife Sharpening, indeed! And that is a very fine title to carry. The Joker being the intelligent being, who knows how to feed hard information in such a way, that people will take in the message. 👍
I use all of those regularly , and the green 2000 in between. They are excellent stones.. wear very slow, and after about a year have not dished or deformed at all… te 320 does like to take a bit more water than your traditional splash and go, and is only needed when doin a decent reprofilling… all in all my favourite is the yellow 1000, and is used for most of my needs. The 5000 is very prone to clogging though and would really recommend hitting it with a nagiri stone every few polished to clean it off. Compared to king stones, they are way better
Agree. I also went from Kings to Shapton and it was like day and night. I prefer the Shapton Glass for the polishing stones, but the 320 and the 1000 are absolutely solid.
I love the Shapton Pro/Kuramaki stones. The 320 blue black seems more aggressive to me than the 120 for some reason, but the 320 is great for bushcraft & Scandi grinds knives. Just amazing performing stones at a good price (not including the 30K stone of course).
the 220 and 320 are a SIC abrasive. the 120 is white alumina as are all the others. the 220 and 320 will wear faster and release more grit than any of the others, but have more cutting power. they can easily grind any steel. The 320 is a really good low grit SNG SIC stone that's not too course. I use it in progression with a King Neo 800 and the Suehiro G8 8k. All of which are SIC and incredible stones. Also you can get the .49 um handmade 30k stone, which is for straight razors and such things, it makes no sense for knives, from Amazon Japan directly from Japan for about $220. All of these Japanese stones are comically overpriced at most retailers. 15 mm versions of Chosera stones are even less money. You can get them for anywhere from $30 to $60. Whereas sharpening supplies sells them for $60 to $275. Massive difference in cost. A 1k shapton pro costs as little as $25 in Japan.
I'm not sure if first knife has a "true" scandi on it, if it does I'm sure you would like to keep it that way as much as possible. If you don't care about it too much, I strongly recommend using a convex sharpening technique on the stones. Yes it would turn it into a "scandi vex" but that's not a bad thing. Just use the natural rocking back and forth hand motion on it. Not so much trying to keep a consistent angle. (It looks like you may have been doing this in the video but I can't tell for sure) either way you did a good job. I own several bark rivers, I use the chosera stones on them. After the 3k grit and a little strop on the black compound I feel they are sharper than even the results I get on the kme with my pocket knives. And I use the venev stones and gunny juice on them. If it fancys you, try this method. In time you will get sharper results. And it's much easier IMO. Faster too. The trick for me however is to use edge trailing strokes after each stone to really cut off the burr before stropping. I can clean shave after the 3k grit stones without a strop. And yes, I learned this from the famous Virtouvice. Cheers
Now for the delica, obviously the convex method would ruin the blade. You would of course want the consistent angle. I can admit I myself don't freehand the V edge knives. I find the results on a guided system produce a more "crisp" or "sticky" edge than what I get when I freehand.
Yeah, theres definitely merits to letting go of the true V scandi. im sure it happens over time to every freehanded scandi knife, to different levels. I have no problem with this knife gradually getting a ‘vex going 😃
Nice sharpening! However,I've noticed that you don't really clean your knife between each grit. Doesn't that lead to grit cross contamination,especially with the strop?
Yes you're correct but not everyone cares about that, which is totally fine. Me personally though, my sharpening OCD was massively triggered watching him not fully clean the blade between stones or even before using a BRAND NEW LOADED strop haha. I was dying. Then seeing him get WD40 over spray and drips all over the new strop and wipe the blade off on his seemingly decent hoodie.... What a monster 🤣🤣🤣
Are you gonna do a side by side rope cut? Hand vs fixed now that you’re getting a little more seasoned. I would be curious if the ultra precise fixed angle actually made a tangible difference
Legit advice, do all your stone work and finish with sand paper to remove any fogginess in the mirror polish. I haven't had the best luck with getting perfect mirrors on stones. I know it's possible but I do not have all day to get every little imperfection.
If you aren’t getting a mirror finish (which really depends on the stone and steel combo anyway), it means you’re failing in the mid range, likely leaving rough striations from your coarsest stone. Spend more time around 1000-2000 range and you’ll be golden.
Pete my friend, one suggestion if I may- mind your cross contamination of the different grits so usually sharpenings with the Japanese waterstones is done near a faucet so you're able to wash the blade thoroughly in between grit progressions and also I personally try to keep things as clean as possible never allowing quite so much of a slurry or mud to build up until your final polishing stages or you will not get as clean an apex also making multiple times over the work needed to get to the next step as a lot of mud buildup will likely round over your apex as you're trying to create a burr so you continue going and going... Just a couple of pointers from an edge snob who has been sharpening for over 30yrs love the content keep it up brother...
You got the 320, which SIC and the finest course stone in the SP line. This stone has excellent cutting power and it's going to be much more friable than the other stones, it will wear faster and release more grit. Keep it flushed and dont let too much mud form for the best experience. The 1k, which is actually about 700 grit and the coarsest medium aka sharpening stone in the line. and the 5k which is the lowest grit finishing stone in the line. All of which are great stones. The 5k is known for very very hard and almost glassy. Soak it for a few minutes to make it a little creamier in use, if you want even more polishing power you can even lap it to create some slurry in addition or alternative to soaking as well. This stone is obviously for finishing and will remove burrs.
@@disco4535the apex will fatigue and damage eventually. In cases like this a touch up won't help and the edge will start to have far less edge retention. You will want to remove the fatigue steel occasionally by running the apex along bricky and form a new apex with a course stone and refine it with the others. All steel gets fatigue and its necessary to do this eventually.
@@disco4535 -- I'd buy the 320 and the 1000 before I bought the 5000. (I have the three and a 2000 as well.) Before I bought my Shaptons, I was trying to get by using just a King 1000/6000 combination stone. Starting on the 320 completely transformed my sharpening. I went from it taking 30 - 45 mins to sharpen a knife, to taking 10 - `15 mins at most. The thing that made all the difference was being able to get a decent burr on the 320. That's where you're doing your actual sharpening -- establishing your apex and your cutting edge. The 1000 and 5000 are just refining it. You can finish on the 1000 and have a perfectly servicable hair whittling edge -- particularly if you strop afterwards. The 5000 is a nice luxury, but it's not essential. The 320 (or any other coarse stone) is definitely essential IMO.
@@disco4535 Yes. Easily. The SP 1k is actually 700 and has good cutting powder for non vanadium steels. It will be much slower for steels like say S30V but it can be done. The 1k, 1.5k and 2k are all considered medium aka sharpening stone. you absolutely do not need to start any courser than the 1k unless you have damage to remove. I touch up knives with the 2k all the time. It's an excellent finer medium stone. the 1k is much courser and faster. it's more than capable of doing moderate work of a course stone because technically it's considered a borderline intermediate stone that sits between the course and medium.
I like it when you use the USB microscope. I recently bought a USB microscope; it helps a lot. A decent USB microscope is only around 40 USD. When it comes to knife sharpening it's a good investment.
Scandi are "easy" to sharpen in regards to the angle, but are insaaanely inefficient as there is so much steel to remove for the slightest edge damage. Something shallow with a microbevel edge would have took 60sec for the same depth of damage... I concider everything with an edge height of more than 0.2mm as a waste of my lifetime... 😅
I think the Shaptons are pretty good. If you were picking a Japanese Waterstone these or the glass are a good choice. Though I'll still argue you really want diamond if you know you will be sharpening stuff with vanadium carbide. Not that these won't work at all, the diamond will just be better.
@CedricAda they should be pretty decent from what I've heard. If you can find them. The 80 all the way to the 1200 grit venev resin bonded diamond stones are pretty nice. Especially since they are half the price of the naniwa. I have the king 1000 resin bonded diamond also. So far i like it. Obviously a diamond plate will work. But having bonded diamond is definitely nice for people that can afford it.
@@_BLANK_BLANK -- Finding somewhere that'll sell you the Venev stones would be a fine thing. Here in the UK at least, I can't find a supplier to save my life.
@twatmunro yeah. Over the last year or so they have gotten a little harder to find. The war in the Ukraine hasn't helped things surely. Also they've gotten more popular
I don't get the obsession with water stones. I used dmt, Spyderco ceramic and then I used 3M lapping film in place of water stones. The lapping film is so much cheaper, and there is very little upkeep - you just get new films when the old stuff gets loaded up
Hey Pete, you're doing it wrong. What you should be doing......LOL ! Just a joke 😃! Looks like you are going to be very happy with your new stones. I'm thinking you will soon be giving your fixed systems a break & just freehand most of the time. BTW your "Bteeking News" is somewhat more interesting than my local news channels breaking news segments.
Please buy these shapton individually, not as a set, because they can be had for much cheaper that way. The 320 can be had for as low as $30. The 5000 grit can be had for $50 or less. Also, these stones tend to glaze if insufficient pressure is used and especially for supersteels like k390
I'm from Singapore. I get my shaptons from Amazon. Sometimes I get from japanese online vendors but some of them don't have free delivery, which can adds quite a bit to the cost
They make sticky type of grippy material for keeping throw carpets from sliding. Will work great under your tray and stones. Your wife will love it ,it comes in large sizes but if needed you could cut a peice off without her noticing. 😊😊
Question: should one soak the shapton stones before use rather than just apply water to them before use? Also, should we be using water more often than what was seen here to keep the abrasive unloaded?
No need to soak. If the stone gets loaded, which every stone will when used properly, use a little slurry stone (a rubbing stone of some kind) to clean the surface. Mind you, sometimes if you’re nearly done on a stone, having that surface clog up will help you push the finish a bit higher. You can create a slightly more refined bevel than the clean stone is capable of. So not always a bad thing.
I got all 3 individually for 172 with tax today also picked up a atoma 140 for 85 for quick reprofile and flattening my stones. I agree 254 is terrible.
I am still forming an opinion on that. My K390 i sharpened the other day is still doing alright but I generally take what Michael Christy thinks as pretty spot on, so its likely it would do better with at least the first couple of steps in diamons
This is true. But only when its over 3-4% vanadium. You can use anything but it will take much longer and you won't be able to abrade Vanadium which is harder than most abrasives. SiC will work the best if you want to sharpen Vanadium steels without diamond's. You will easily wear the matrix of steel around the Vanadium with most abrasives. Until you reach higher hardness levels like 63rc plus. Secondary hardening on some steels brings out even harder Vanadium and will be a large advantage to use diamond. It can effect edge retention
Diamond/CBN will make no difference in respect of edge retention. It will cut faster, but the Shapton stones are formulated to be able to deal with high vanadium steels. The Shapton Glass stones come in two different variants -- one for softer, carbon steels, the other for the harder supersteels.
@@twatmunro the shaptons hr are more for high hardness knives not high Vanadium. They were not formulated for that. They will also take longer. And you will get better edge retention from diamond on high Vanadium steels. On low vanadium it likely won't matter.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 84 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องศึก vs เมืองไทย"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3kuzsAIDf1c/mqdefault.jpg)
Try soaking a kitchen towel, then wring it damp…Place it under your tray…Old restaurant trick to stabilize cutting boards.
Getting a mirror that's not gray or cloudy is all about the proper grit progression and removing the prior scratch pattern out with the next stone. If you make too big a jump in grit, its too difficult to hide the deeper scratches from the prior stone. Also helps to use techniques like different scratch direction on each stone. Finishing in the idea direction of course. Alternating directions will allow you to verify the prior scratch pattern was removed more easily.
The SP 5K does not make a true mirror edge. It makes a cloudy mirror. It's the lowest grit finishing stone in the line. I would suggest the glass series over the pros for polishing anyway. and I'd suggest a naniwa superstone over either and basically anything else on the market.
@@TimJohnson-x1o yeah, there's many ways to go about it.
same for lapidary work , if I try skip a grit the mirror has fine scratches in it
That cat is the living definition of Fat and Sassy! He also looks like he spends most of his time on IDGAF island.
To add what you didn't mention, at least 3 grits are needed, to achive a proper job. let's say a basic of 300 grit/1000 grit(double the passes per side) / 3000 grit(triple the passes per side). Proper stroping and final stage stropping on newspaper,to realign the molecules of the steel, can provide a scary sharp and perfect edge. As I mentioned, the grits I mentioned, are just a typical basic grit selection, the higher the grit, the more you multiply the passes, as also the better mirror finish you get.
The zen is important to get with the sharpy stones. Nicely done 👍 Mr. Pete.
Tip for the tip. Use the 4 corners on the stone (the areas the get the least use during sharpening) when you’re working on the tip. Just to get a bit more even distribution of the wear on the stone.
Great vid as usual.
😂 Basil!
Videos lately have been fantastic! Love seeing sharpening stone videos. This is my jam!
Pete dropping tons of content and I love it!!!!
It’s funny how some people are commenting on these videos as if you have no idea or experience with truly sharp edges. You know as if you haven’t sharpened countless knives/steels on fixed angle systems, oh and then tested them for edge retention.
Keep on keepin on Pete, it’s fun to watch you progress and learn!
I use a house plant spray bottle to wet my stones, quick and easy.
Really enjoying this series. I'm presently on a similar jag, trying to get proficient at freehanding after decades of half-assing it. Picked up one of those two-sided Sharpals that Alex recommended and I'm quite liking it. Never got on with diamond plates before that. Also got an astounding 400 grit vitrified diamond from Japan. That one is a steel destroyer, in the best way possible.
Did you get the 6" or 8"? I ordered one and didn't see the 8" option. It hasn't gotten here yet but think I'm gonna return it without even opening it, and get the 8".
@@hificat101 I got the 8". You won't be disappointed. Most knives, even exotic steels, it's 1-3 passes per side to raise a burr, provided you're not reprofiling.
Pete. Just wanted to let you know you inspired me to start freehand sharpening. The hardest part for me is not comparing the edges to the ones I got on my KME. I know I have a long way to go still.
yes I really struggled to let go of the ‘must know the angle’ and ‘will this cut as much rope as a KMe edge’ the most.
That being said, I finally managed yesterday to match a Kme result freehand which I got into a video up in a couple days ☺️☺️
@CedricAda that's great! It's been cool to watch your journey. Hopefully in a couple of months I'll feel better about my edges.
As someone else pointed out, the Kuromaku 2k is the best stone in the series, and in my case the only one I use. I might use something around 600-1000 to begin honing.
After the 2k, the only thing I use is a Japanese natural Suita stone of medium hardness, maybe 7 or 8 out of 10 on a conventional scale that many retailers use. Those stones, when clean (high quality) do everything you need to erase any mid-range marks on light to medium slurry. To finish, they just need the tiniest bit of slurry (some call this trace slurry) and you end up with a shaving edge. They are very expensive stones and rightfully so, as they replace 3 or 4 synthetics and your finishing stone. I’d highly recommend you try one out. It’s super fun
I use a dressing stone for my splash and go stones ro keep them clean. They would help with the surface beading also.
Whatever you do theres always someone to tell you that you did it wrong. My take, as with anything, do whatever works for you, refine whatever method you use, and most importantly, enjoy yourself. Thanks for the video. P.S. Basil Cam is ❤🔥!
Basil Cam is really nice!
Thanks for your content. I find it enjoyable and interesting. I have a 6 set of those Shapton stones and I thought I might offer something to think about to those thinking of buying them or expanding their sets like you mentioned. The most expensive stones in the set are the finer grit stones. I've also found that I end up using the finest grit stones by far the least since their grit range overlaps a lot of the different strops I use. Before you fork over the big bucks on the fine stones carefully consider how you use strops and if you are buying an expensive stone that you might not use as much because you tend to strop a lot. Then again if you never use stops and are a stone purest or just like them and can afford them go right ahead. I think that the range you bought is the best 3 to start with and might be all most will use if they strop most of their blades. Good luck to all!
Ha! I have that exact set of stones. Haven’t tried them yet though, I keep putting it off. (Scared to try the Scandi grind).
Loved the cat footage btw.
Damn, FFIX, FFVII, and Fire Emblem: Path of Radiance music. Immaculate taste
I have been searching different stones on and off for that last week or so. The Kuromako are definitely on the 'hmm could be' list
lmao. Loved the breaking news bits. I'm no expert either but your pivoting to get the belly & tip looked just fine.
Cool!
Careful with getting a bunch of stones from different brands and made of different abrasives into your progression.
A 2K Shapton glass can be as fine as a 3K Naniwa, etc.
There isn’t a consistent grit rating, I find, with nearly all of the stones in the market. That’s why folks (myself included) buy an array of stones of a certain model, from a specific manufacturer and use them in a progression of sharpening/ honing.
You can achieve great results by mixing them up, but you’ll have to go through a bunch of trial and error; and at times you’ll have stones that achieve a similar finish / cut similarly, after spending hundreds of dollars of ‘em.
That's the whole point enjoyable/relaxing whilst still acheiving a useable result. Very nice!
The Kuromaku 320 is a great stone. The 1000 always finishes closer to a 700-800 grit stone.
Maybe put a damp towel underneath your tray?
Came here to say this! Did you work in kitchens too?
I dont think you spent too much time on the coarse stones. These are not fast stones and getting your bevel shaped correctly is really important for this style of sharpening. Most people spend far too little time on coarse stones.
If you translate the package that it comes with, it does recommend soaking the stones 5 to 8 minutes before the first use and then just splash and go after that.
Yeah most all stones, including those and even Venevs, Poltava, Hapstone, etc. come with a factory glaze you gotta lap or wear off by sharpening.
Good film once again.
I like how you show, film, your progress and share your thoughts.
Also, I like how you make me jumpy. Wiping the blade in your newish hoodie. WD40 onto the strop. Just slapping the stone down in a baking tray, etc. Because, none of those things really matter. If you don't care how your sleeve looks, then why should I care? I can use a rag to wipe my blades with...or more likely; a pant leg! 😂
I am the Joker of knife sharpening with all my chaos
The Joker of Knife Sharpening, indeed!
And that is a very fine title to carry.
The Joker being the intelligent being, who knows how to feed hard information in such a way, that people will take in the message. 👍
I use all of those regularly , and the green 2000 in between. They are excellent stones.. wear very slow, and after about a year have not dished or deformed at all… te 320 does like to take a bit more water than your traditional splash and go, and is only needed when doin a decent reprofilling… all in all my favourite is the yellow 1000, and is used for most of my needs. The 5000 is very prone to clogging though and would really recommend hitting it with a nagiri stone every few polished to clean it off. Compared to king stones, they are way better
Agree. I also went from Kings to Shapton and it was like day and night. I prefer the Shapton Glass for the polishing stones, but the 320 and the 1000 are absolutely solid.
Nice 👌 zen state haha he has become one with the water stone.... adventure music was fun ✌basil looks like he's ready to kill !!
I love the Shapton Pro/Kuramaki stones. The 320 blue black seems more aggressive to me than the 120 for some reason, but the 320 is great for bushcraft & Scandi grinds knives. Just amazing performing stones at a good price (not including the 30K stone of course).
the 220 and 320 are a SIC abrasive. the 120 is white alumina as are all the others. the 220 and 320 will wear faster and release more grit than any of the others, but have more cutting power. they can easily grind any steel. The 320 is a really good low grit SNG SIC stone that's not too course. I use it in progression with a King Neo 800 and the Suehiro G8 8k. All of which are SIC and incredible stones. Also you can get the .49 um handmade 30k stone, which is for straight razors and such things, it makes no sense for knives, from Amazon Japan directly from Japan for about $220. All of these Japanese stones are comically overpriced at most retailers. 15 mm versions of Chosera stones are even less money. You can get them for anywhere from $30 to $60. Whereas sharpening supplies sells them for $60 to $275. Massive difference in cost. A 1k shapton pro costs as little as $25 in Japan.
great choice, and they don't want to turn back to sand like the naniwa pro's
If you grab the 2000 it will let you polish out those 1000 grit scratches a lot quicker on the 5
Mate, that edge looked wicked!
I love these stones I also use the 2k excellent on s30 s35 s45 and 3v . Keep up the good work I love what you are doing . Gave my hobby a spark .
the 2k is one of the best for sure. I have the entire line and many other stones. the 2k SP is a really nice stone.
The 2k stone is all I own from the Kuromaku line. One of the best 2Ks on the market. Great shoutout.
I'm not sure if first knife has a "true" scandi on it, if it does I'm sure you would like to keep it that way as much as possible. If you don't care about it too much, I strongly recommend using a convex sharpening technique on the stones. Yes it would turn it into a "scandi vex" but that's not a bad thing. Just use the natural rocking back and forth hand motion on it. Not so much trying to keep a consistent angle. (It looks like you may have been doing this in the video but I can't tell for sure) either way you did a good job.
I own several bark rivers, I use the chosera stones on them. After the 3k grit and a little strop on the black compound I feel they are sharper than even the results I get on the kme with my pocket knives. And I use the venev stones and gunny juice on them. If it fancys you, try this method. In time you will get sharper results. And it's much easier IMO. Faster too. The trick for me however is to use edge trailing strokes after each stone to really cut off the burr before stropping. I can clean shave after the 3k grit stones without a strop.
And yes, I learned this from the famous Virtouvice. Cheers
Now for the delica, obviously the convex method would ruin the blade. You would of course want the consistent angle. I can admit I myself don't freehand the V edge knives. I find the results on a guided system produce a more "crisp" or "sticky" edge than what I get when I freehand.
Yeah, theres definitely merits to letting go of the true V scandi. im sure it happens over time to every freehanded scandi knife, to different levels. I have no problem with this knife gradually getting a ‘vex going 😃
Nice sharpening! However,I've noticed that you don't really clean your knife between each grit. Doesn't that lead to grit cross contamination,especially with the strop?
Yes you're correct but not everyone cares about that, which is totally fine. Me personally though, my sharpening OCD was massively triggered watching him not fully clean the blade between stones or even before using a BRAND NEW LOADED strop haha. I was dying. Then seeing him get WD40 over spray and drips all over the new strop and wipe the blade off on his seemingly decent hoodie.... What a monster 🤣🤣🤣
Yes you are right.
Yes but it's not a deal breaker kinda thing
@@EdgeStoneKnivesYeah the transfer from each stone was w/e, but to the strop?! He might as well have scratched a chalkboard
If your doing sharpening as a job or for someone else, never contaminate. If your lasy its fine, but its better to have good practice and do it right.
Are you gonna do a side by side rope cut? Hand vs fixed now that you’re getting a little more seasoned. I would be curious if the ultra precise fixed angle actually made a tangible difference
Pete makes a better score for his videos than Disney and Amazon Prime combined
That thumbnail is special torture when you're sitting on the waiting list.
man that mirror edge is nice!!
Legit advice, do all your stone work and finish with sand paper to remove any fogginess in the mirror polish. I haven't had the best luck with getting perfect mirrors on stones. I know it's possible but I do not have all day to get every little imperfection.
If you aren’t getting a mirror finish (which really depends on the stone and steel combo anyway), it means you’re failing in the mid range, likely leaving rough striations from your coarsest stone. Spend more time around 1000-2000 range and you’ll be golden.
Have you tried having 40 years experience sharpening on natural stones mined first hand? Love your stuff Pete ❤️
That’s some impressive work! Do you always sharpen the entire scandi bevel or just put a new edge on the very edge?
Pete my friend, one suggestion if I may- mind your cross contamination of the different grits so usually sharpenings with the Japanese waterstones is done near a faucet so you're able to wash the blade thoroughly in between grit progressions and also I personally try to keep things as clean as possible never allowing quite so much of a slurry or mud to build up until your final polishing stages or you will not get as clean an apex also making multiple times over the work needed to get to the next step as a lot of mud buildup will likely round over your apex as you're trying to create a burr so you continue going and going... Just a couple of pointers from an edge snob who has been sharpening for over 30yrs love the content keep it up brother...
You got the 320, which SIC and the finest course stone in the SP line. This stone has excellent cutting power and it's going to be much more friable than the other stones, it will wear faster and release more grit. Keep it flushed and dont let too much mud form for the best experience. The 1k, which is actually about 700 grit and the coarsest medium aka sharpening stone in the line. and the 5k which is the lowest grit finishing stone in the line. All of which are great stones. The 5k is known for very very hard and almost glassy. Soak it for a few minutes to make it a little creamier in use, if you want even more polishing power you can even lap it to create some slurry in addition or alternative to soaking as well. This stone is obviously for finishing and will remove burrs.
Do you think I could just buy the 1000 and 5000 grit if I always sharpen before my blades get too dull?
@@disco4535the apex will fatigue and damage eventually. In cases like this a touch up won't help and the edge will start to have far less edge retention.
You will want to remove the fatigue steel occasionally by running the apex along bricky and form a new apex with a course stone and refine it with the others.
All steel gets fatigue and its necessary to do this eventually.
@@tacticalcenter8658 That makes a lot of sense. Thank you for taking the time to explain
@@disco4535 -- I'd buy the 320 and the 1000 before I bought the 5000. (I have the three and a 2000 as well.) Before I bought my Shaptons, I was trying to get by using just a King 1000/6000 combination stone. Starting on the 320 completely transformed my sharpening. I went from it taking 30 - 45 mins to sharpen a knife, to taking 10 - `15 mins at most. The thing that made all the difference was being able to get a decent burr on the 320. That's where you're doing your actual sharpening -- establishing your apex and your cutting edge. The 1000 and 5000 are just refining it. You can finish on the 1000 and have a perfectly servicable hair whittling edge -- particularly if you strop afterwards. The 5000 is a nice luxury, but it's not essential. The 320 (or any other coarse stone) is definitely essential IMO.
@@disco4535 Yes. Easily. The SP 1k is actually 700 and has good cutting powder for non vanadium steels. It will be much slower for steels like say S30V but it can be done. The 1k, 1.5k and 2k are all considered medium aka sharpening stone. you absolutely do not need to start any courser than the 1k unless you have damage to remove. I touch up knives with the 2k all the time. It's an excellent finer medium stone. the 1k is much courser and faster. it's more than capable of doing moderate work of a course stone because technically it's considered a borderline intermediate stone that sits between the course and medium.
I like it when you use the USB microscope.
I recently bought a USB microscope; it helps a lot.
A decent USB microscope is only around 40 USD.
When it comes to knife sharpening it's a good investment.
Perfect example of knife sharpening ruining a cat video. 🤪
Scandi are "easy" to sharpen in regards to the angle, but are insaaanely inefficient as there is so much steel to remove for the slightest edge damage.
Something shallow with a microbevel edge would have took 60sec for the same depth of damage...
I concider everything with an edge height of more than 0.2mm as a waste of my lifetime... 😅
Basil, International cat of mystery !!
Get the KC-01 by Lionsteel while there is still some! I am not a dealer, but I know you will love it!
The Black Mages, nice.
Yeah thats what im running but with an atoma 400 diamond as the starting grit.... nice.
And the cat is back!
I think the Shaptons are pretty good. If you were picking a Japanese Waterstone these or the glass are a good choice.
Though I'll still argue you really want diamond if you know you will be sharpening stuff with vanadium carbide.
Not that these won't work at all, the diamond will just be better.
im looking at the naniwa resin bonded diamond stones at the moment
@CedricAda they should be pretty decent from what I've heard.
If you can find them. The 80 all the way to the 1200 grit venev resin bonded diamond stones are pretty nice. Especially since they are half the price of the naniwa.
I have the king 1000 resin bonded diamond also. So far i like it.
Obviously a diamond plate will work. But having bonded diamond is definitely nice for people that can afford it.
@@_BLANK_BLANK -- Finding somewhere that'll sell you the Venev stones would be a fine thing. Here in the UK at least, I can't find a supplier to save my life.
@twatmunro yeah. Over the last year or so they have gotten a little harder to find.
The war in the Ukraine hasn't helped things surely. Also they've gotten more popular
I don't get the obsession with water stones. I used dmt, Spyderco ceramic and then I used 3M lapping film in place of water stones. The lapping film is so much cheaper, and there is very little upkeep - you just get new films when the old stuff gets loaded up
I have this set i love it
Hey Pete, you're doing it wrong. What you should be doing......LOL !
Just a joke 😃!
Looks like you are going to be very happy with your new stones. I'm thinking you will soon be giving your fixed systems a break & just freehand most of the time.
BTW your "Bteeking News" is somewhat more interesting than my local news channels breaking news segments.
*Anyone know where I can get fine grit diamond cylindrical rods for sharpening high vanadium "super steel" serrations?*
aren't you supposed to put pressure on the upstroke so the knife does not cut into the stone?
Please buy these shapton individually, not as a set, because they can be had for much cheaper that way. The 320 can be had for as low as $30. The 5000 grit can be had for $50 or less.
Also, these stones tend to glaze if insufficient pressure is used and especially for supersteels like k390
in which country are you talking? I got these in australia where they are minimum $74 for the 320, $89 for the 1000 and $99+ for the higher grits.
I'm from Singapore. I get my shaptons from Amazon. Sometimes I get from japanese online vendors but some of them don't have free delivery, which can adds quite a bit to the cost
Just got a new Naniwa pro chocera in 3000 grit today
I think you did a great job. Finally you're starting to sound like Bob Ross a little bit.
My friend, you MUST try the Shapton Pro grain 1500. It's much, much better than the 1000
Silicon baking mat under your tray will stop the sliding.
Great, thank you. Lg Gerry
looks good
The Shapton Pro Ceramic Stones are really good and inexpensive.
They make sticky type of grippy material for keeping throw carpets from sliding. Will work great under your tray and stones. Your wife will love it ,it comes in large sizes but if needed you could cut a peice off without her noticing. 😊😊
Question: should one soak the shapton stones before use rather than just apply water to them before use? Also, should we be using water more often than what was seen here to keep the abrasive unloaded?
They are called splash and go and say not to submerge too long. I probably could have splashed a few more times for a thinner slurry and less load
No need to soak.
If the stone gets loaded, which every stone will when used properly, use a little slurry stone (a rubbing stone of some kind) to clean the surface. Mind you, sometimes if you’re nearly done on a stone, having that surface clog up will help you push the finish a bit higher. You can create a slightly more refined bevel than the clean stone is capable of. So not always a bad thing.
$254 is terrible. Received such a set today for 180 Canadian dollars
I got all 3 individually for 172 with tax today also picked up a atoma 140 for 85 for quick reprofile and flattening my stones. I agree 254 is terrible.
Nice!
Jenova never stood a chance.
Need a link to that FFVII song my dude.
th-cam.com/video/YTCNFVx_zWA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0O3fzOWv3rDdQx_u
Thanks man.
Never Like corse whetstones maybe not even medium ones. They are so messy, dish out fast, and are less effective on high HRC super steels.
Same.. Rarely ever go below 600, and thats only to do heavy repairs. Most of the times if the knife is just dull, 1 or 2k is a good starting point
@@wholybatman 🍻
How is Basil holding up after the loss?
he literally doesnt seem to notice haha. he’s cold man
The wisdom on the internet is that you need diamond or cbn to get edge retention on high vanadium steels. What do you think?
I am still forming an opinion on that. My K390 i sharpened the other day is still doing alright but I generally take what Michael Christy thinks as pretty spot on, so its likely it would do better with at least the first couple of steps in diamons
This is true. But only when its over 3-4% vanadium. You can use anything but it will take much longer and you won't be able to abrade Vanadium which is harder than most abrasives. SiC will work the best if you want to sharpen Vanadium steels without diamond's. You will easily wear the matrix of steel around the Vanadium with most abrasives. Until you reach higher hardness levels like 63rc plus. Secondary hardening on some steels brings out even harder Vanadium and will be a large advantage to use diamond.
It can effect edge retention
Diamond/CBN will make no difference in respect of edge retention. It will cut faster, but the Shapton stones are formulated to be able to deal with high vanadium steels. The Shapton Glass stones come in two different variants -- one for softer, carbon steels, the other for the harder supersteels.
@@twatmunro the shaptons hr are more for high hardness knives not high Vanadium. They were not formulated for that. They will also take longer. And you will get better edge retention from diamond on high Vanadium steels. On low vanadium it likely won't matter.
I AM SO UPSET AND OFFENDED
I absolutely hate sharpening scandis
yeah the skill level needed is higher than often stated
@@CedricAda totally. It's much less forgiving than any other standard geometry with secondary bevel
I really enjoy my veneve stones, expensive, hard to get now and made in Russia. Last works great on super steel knives.
Tenta trocar para a mão esquerda quanto rodas a faca!...
Not everyone is ambidextrous like that. Takes a lot of practice to pull that off
Who's Ada ?
Ada was the husky dog. There is a tribute video if you search the channel for it 😊
@@LisaInTheSkyMU thank you !
Yor doing it rong. - Love, the Internet.
and peple still calling scandi easy to sharp? They must be talking about some scandi sheep foots?
HELLO
final fantasy is distracting me