Duane you are exactly what TH-cam excels at. What a monument to your craft you've assembled here. It's a joy to explore a slice of your life while trying to get this gummy old boat anchor humming. Thank you so much.
Thanks so much for this video! 5yrs later it's still exactly what someone needs to fix up an old Selectric III. I picked mine up at Goodwill for $25. Excited to bring this machine back to life!
I've bought one last week and started working on it, it had the cables which move the carriege entagled in the gears of the main shaft and the ball stuck on striking the same letter everytime; trust me you don't want to work on one of this ahahah But, I have to admit, I find it relaxing, think it's a sort of zen thing
Misery must really like company because I actually enjoyed watching you free up those key levers and pawls. I say that because I didn't enjoy it when I was doing it myself hundreds maybe thousands of times. These are great videos and bring back a lot of memories. If we had had video techniques like this back in the sixties it would have been a lot easier to teach all those CE's we were hiring then.
Just wanted to say thank you so much for this video. Bought an old IBM Correcting Selectric III, and your videos with the I and II are instrumental in my fixing it.
I'm loving this video! Thank you for sharing your expertise. With these youtube videos people are still going to be maintaining selectrics in 100yrs from now!
Yay!!! I bought an IBM selectric typewriter at the thrift store for $10! It came with a cover, the manual, 5 typewriter balls and a cleaning kit. It is in perfect condition! But lately the "J" started sticking and, thanks to your video, it's fixed now! I also noticed the "foam" that was on the underside of the cover had all deteriorated and fallen between the keys, so I fixed that, too! Thank you!!
Good deal! I had a similar experience except I didn't get all those extras. Picked one up for $18 at a thrift store and was offered $150 cash on the spot by a couple just entering the store as I was leaving. I kept the machine. No reqrets.
Thanks for referring me to this video. This is exactly what I was looking for. What tool are you using to apply the degreaser? And as far as the air goes, would a standard disposable can of compressed air be enough? Would mineral spirits be a suitable degreaser?
Bottle... www.jensentools.com/125-093-long-reach-lube-all-dispensing-bottle-4-oz/p/125-093 Mineral spirits will work, canned air will work, but more air the better
Just picked up a selectric ii with some sticky keys. From what I see, I will need a pick set, compressor, degreaser and lube. What else should I be looking for and what kind of degreaser and lube should I be lookin for? I’m hoping for Home Depot to have what I need?
My primary chemicals are lacquer thinner & red oil (Marvel Mystery Oil) found at automotive stores. Also the spray contact cleaner by MG chemicals (product 401 ) is handy
Excellent video. I have two Selectric 2s that are sticky. The closest shop is 3 hours away so I will give this a try myself. I read the comments and noticed that you said we can leave them free of lube or use MG 401B. I have key & rotor (edit: key & rotor oil) which is intended for brass instruments (I can use them in old cameras). Will that do the trick or is the MG 401B better? Also, are you using an air compressor, canned air or a bulb syringe of some sort for blowing the degreaser off?
Key & rotor looks fine, I would blow thru any excess, yes air compressor is the way to go. If the keyboard is sticky chances are other area's & pivots are too.
I brought home a Selectric III which I inherited (Saturday Sep 12) from my tax accountant. It had been in storage for many decades. Pulled the top cover, checked the motor pulley. Ran my finger over some of the grease and it was not gummy/varnish. I bit the bullet, plugged it in and it powered on. Tab operation and return a little sticky. Added a little lubrication to the rails and it freed up. Backspace tried to operate but wouldn't advance. The slide of the pawl which engages the teeth of the gear, was a little stiff. Some lubricant fixed that too. Bit my lip and struck a typing key..... It went through the cycle in slow motion and seemed to stall towards the end of the cycle. A couple more times and it freed up too. The only problem now is the ?,/ key hesitant to return, sticks on the up/return. The key doesn't always cycle unless you press it solidly and deliberately. Oddly the tab cord has a little fray in it. The machine prints every letter and numeral perfectly, even with the carbon ribbon which was on the machine, amazing. I believe I'll find someone local to go over it though just to be sure. No warm oil smell after it's been on either. It was a mystery machine as the my accountant made mention a few years ago that he had a Selectric in storage, but not the model. I'm glad in a way it wasn't a Model 50, 60, or 75 :o)
The way you have explained how to repair these is definitely the best. The shortcuts I took were on a machine which was stored in a climate controlled environment and with it's cover in place. I was very lucky.
Do you recommend removing all the sticky old foam inside and if so, what do I replace it with? Also, where would I get one of the bottles you use to squirt on the thinner? BTW.... Thank you very much for recording these videos. Your help is immensely appreciated!!!
That part that you said be careful if it comes up you have to reset all the leaf springs after you move the bar out well that part is bent up and it won't go down and I'm trying to reset all those leaf springs and they won't go back in on the end. it's bent up so what do you recommend? Update: I kinda got them back down, but I turned it back on and the key started to work for a second no sticking but then it stopped typing at all. I'm going to leave it to the experts so what do you think someone would charge me to fix it?
@@nunya_713 When those get bent it's hard to get them straight, replacing spring assembly is the answer As far as it not typing could be unrelated to key board, Hard to estimate without a first hand inspection I would be at $120.00 to start, could be double that. Last selectric 2 I just got two days ago from original owner who said he hadn't turned it on in 22 years and should be like new, yes looked like new, BUT it took 2 hours just to get it to type, another 2 hrs to get it to type right & I'm a professional !!
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 Dwayne, my dear, you have the patience of a saint because if this typewriter could talk... It would say this chicky has a mouth of a sailor. LOL and especially after all those lacquer thinner fumes WHEW!!!! Darn thing drove me to drink! 2 margaritas later, all was forgiven. LOL yeah, I think I'll take it to a pro & hopefully they can walk me thru it to save me a few bucks. Wish me luck!!!! P.S. u ever think of becoming a hypnotist? You would make a great one. you have a great voice. That or a DJ or an announcer. you could do great voice over work
Thanks for making this video! I picked up a Selectric today and have successfully unstuck all of my keys. In the process of doing so I dislodged black e-clip seemingly from the right front. I can’t figure out where it goes. Any ideas? I see a lot of silver e-clips but no other black ones.
If you slid the KB fulcrum out, then that's where it came from. Was snapped on the fulcrum through one of the empty slots on the left side, designed to keep fulcrum from sliding out, unnecessary to re-install, fulcrum is not going to move.
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 thank you for the very prompt reply! If the KB fulcrum is the bar that runs along the entire rear of the key bars then yes I did remove it. That’s a big relief. Now I just need to figure out why sometimes the backspace actuation gets stuck and goes crazy.
Imho, those oils are too heavy too, even if I use the red oil , make sure to blow out ALL the excess so there is only a mirco film left. I have been using the MG401 spray with oil (5%), still blow that out too, sometime I leave dry too.
I just finished cleaning all of the little pivots on my Selectric I - some of them were really stuck hard, but the lacquer thinner worked its magic after a bit. As you, I cleaned the pivots multiple times, blowing with air as well. One thing I noticed is that after a bit of time, they start getting a little stubborn again - not completely stuck, but a little gummier. I continue to clean those. My question is, do you lube those at all after they are all clean? Also, I noticed that my Selectric 1 doesn't have the holes to be able to push the rod out like the Selectric II you are working on. It doesn't seem quite so easy to get to that rod on this machine.
Those can run dry, lots of parts can run dry on the selectrics. I thought the selectric 1's KB's were same as 2's. Dremel tool a slot ? I'm gonna have to look next time I get a 1 in the shop.
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 I got all the keys working, but the return and index keys are not working. Will need to take some photos and post to the FB page. I can tell that the pawl is sluggish - if I manually pull the little latch towards the bottom of the machine, it will properly return, so I think the problem I'm having is all around the keys.
My dad just recently got a selectric II and I've taken it upon myself to repair it, where might I get a pick set like the one you're using? some of the keys are extremely sticky and the pick set I found is a bit too big to get good leverage. never mind, managed to get them loose!
Just bought a selectric in and started cleaning: tilted the machine up to check bottom: when resetting I found a little white plastic piece with double spring: any idea where this goes?
Of course I do, I know where all 2500 parts go in these Selectrics Sounds like the tab tension transport pulley th-cam.com/video/E4dLROJ5xQA/w-d-xo.html
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 yep that's what it looks like.. do you have video on how to put the metal mesh that did my best that it wouldn't come off when cleaning the keys after removing the rod. One side came off: leaf spring. Had most keys unstuck and seemed fine until the left leaf spring came off. Also now when hitting any key it does multiple typing haven't a clue why that started
@@flaron352 Been waiting until I knock one of those leaf springs off to shot a video on how I reinstall them, very tricky Old sticky oil is the primary problem with selectrics nowadays, look up videos about dashes or repeating
What should I do if a key or keys are repeatedly triggering? I pressed a few keys and the head typed them, then the head kept triggering. The head has gone all the way to the right but won't stop typing. I tried looking in the both the Selectric III owners manual and service manual but I couldn't find this symptom.
Symptom is 40 year old oil is sticky like molasses, This video could be 1 reason of many that will cause repeating cycle clutch th-cam.com/video/cHUYt-8vl94/w-d-xo.html
The cycle clutch is not latching. The clutch rotates 180° per print cycle. The clutch is located on the left side of drive belt pulley. It has two stops on it. A threaded hand cycle tool that screws into the right side of the shift clutch(far right òf machine) is needed to see the cycle clutch lever latching and unlatching from the bottom of machine.
In this video I'm using primarily lacquer thinner, but this is the strongest and most dangerous of all chemicals I am professionally trained, be careful with this stuff
Im completely stuck with my Selectric, tab return and shift work, but i get no response from the space bar, and the keys can barely be moved at all, except for the F key (dose not do anything though). I have tried the above in the hopes that it will fix it, but alas, no such luck. The shaft that turns for printing can not be moved by hand. Any ideas as to what the problem is?
100% sure, but with out a 1st hand look I can't do much analysis, sound's like something is frozen along the power train, that's over 10 different places that need to be eliminated, more likely a combination of these parts or something unforeseen. These are precision mechanical machines and the old oils have coagulated cause all kinds of problems too.
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 Could you list possible places in the Selectric that could cause this? Btw, small update, i manged to get backspace working (not space bar though). The backspace latch (i think thats what the plate is called that the backspace and space trigger to, which unlocks the cam for that part) was more or less glued to its shaft, after holding the shaft with small pliers i manged to get it lose with a lot of flushing with Hexane and moving it, fallowed by oiling. Some sort of latch stops the space bar from triggering though, and i have yet to figure out how its released. I also noticed that the shift function has a point where the shaft is very hard to turn, i have yet to locate the cause of this. The motor manages to move the shaft, but it moves the motor in its mount every time shift is pressed. Any idea?
@@lbochtler With out on-hands look/see/feel/touch it's very hard to explain. Your might need a working selectric to figure out how it should work, study the theory of operations before attempting to fix. every operation this typewriter does requires multiple this to happen instantly, if that is impeded for any reason = failure. Here is a recent video..... th-cam.com/video/0KiHhv7AZXo/w-d-xo.html
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 Good news, i got it some what working, i managed to print 3 lines, though after i pressed shift it locked up again. That gear video did indeed help, that gear was not completely stuck, but very close to being so. I also underestimated how sensitive the cycle clutch release was. I used the adjustment manual to get a lot of the things more fine tuned, which managed to get it working. Now i just need to work out the shift key problems. Thank you for your help.
Not enough information for me to tell you much, look for missing springs, sticky pivot points, could need compensator ball bearing rack flushed, could be a selector interposer, could be the cycle clutch, could be something unforeseen. I would need to see machine on bench, up close, to determine much.
Basically pick it out piece by piece mostly using long hemostats, again another meticulously annoying process that has to be done on most all these IBM's. An IBM selectric life cycle was considered to be 8 yrs, nobody @ IBM would have imagined these to be in operation in the new millennium.
Thanks man. One more question, can you show how the spacebar is attached. My key seemed to disconnect and just falls and I can't find what holds it in place.
Can't post pictures here, I know the internet has a part diagram somewhere. Spacebar has a more than a few parts & pivots, too many to try to explain. I only learned from having a complete selectric to directly reference to when needed. FB has a typewriter maintenance group that would be helpful.
I discovered the problem. Looks like some welding came undone from the bar to the actual mechanism :/ Hate to ask you yet another question, but do you know what type of light bulb it uses? One's burned out and it doesn't have any identification on it
Those bulbs are proprietary IBM only. They rarely go bad, You can flick it with you finger see if that revives it, make sure it in all the way and lastly swap it with other to verify bad. I have some new bulbs if needed.
Selectric 1's are same mechanically, but ribbons are different and hard to get, and of course they don't have the correction feature I actually have four selectric 1's in my for sale stock right now
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 oh, i missed that on your site. the original is interesting because of the curves - then they got square - like 1980s Chrysler K cars
I do mention the dangers of lacquer thinner in most all my video's in regards to potential plastic damage. There are some plastic that LT has no effect on, like the bottle I'm using to dispense, paper bails arms on selectrics, selectric III plastic key tops are safe, but not selectric II. Most plastics and some finishes 1 drop will leave a un-reversible mark/damage.
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 yes -this is a selectric 1 with glossy keys. Wondering how feasible it is to replace the 2 keys because i think those small marks on just a couple keys wrecks the market value - considering there are hundreds on ebay, people can hold out for perfect. thanks
@@SuperJV4x I agree, I hate imperfections on the key tops, but my experience most people don't seem to care much and pretty much expect some sort of cosmetic imperfections on a 50 year old machine. As far as your question about white out, I do have a method but it does involve using LT with oil, I have perfected this method thru trial/error decades ago and I know now which clear card guides can handle more or less amounts of LT. Generally no one chemical will remove white out and there are also different types of white out (chemical compound) th-cam.com/video/Vf96hYFNAug/w-d-xo.html
@@phoenixtypewriter2136yes it looks a bit like a fingerprint on the R but one that won't rub off. This is light green selectric 1 in otherwise mint cond and now of course I have the keys not sticking. Were there proper names that IBM gave the colors? just for my knowledge, I guess the keys do not come off easily or if so go back on securely? i ask because someone has them listed for sale but no point if changing out is problematic. Thanks again for all your replies
Try WD-40 and a hairdryer. The WD-40 is a very light lubricant and acts as a carrier; it softens and renews the dried out grease. Slowly warm up the metal parts with the hairdryer and the grease will re-flow and mix with the lighter lubricant. That's what I do with the Selectric II's. I haven't had any come back.
Man, after watching this, I think I'd be inclined to just start pouring lighter fluid everywhere and on everything and then toss in a lit match just to make sure it was well and truly done :) I just bought a selectric I for $5 and have no idea what I am getting into :)
All these IBM were heavily oiled and now that oil has coagulated, everywhere, every pivot, 100's/1000's of potential parts effected. An agitating dip tank would be handy now-a-days for these selectrics
Duane you are exactly what TH-cam excels at. What a monument to your craft you've assembled here. It's a joy to explore a slice of your life while trying to get this gummy old boat anchor humming. Thank you so much.
its incredible how many people had the same reaction I did. So much gratitude in these comments.
Thanks so much for this video! 5yrs later it's still exactly what someone needs to fix up an old Selectric III. I picked mine up at Goodwill for $25. Excited to bring this machine back to life!
I love the memories this brings back but I don't miss repairing these day in and day out.
I swear, you're making me want to start working on Selectrics :)
TypewriterJustice
The
I've bought one last week and started working on it, it had the cables which move the carriege entagled in the gears of the main shaft and the ball stuck on striking the same letter everytime; trust me you don't want to work on one of this ahahah
But, I have to admit, I find it relaxing, think it's a sort of zen thing
Misery must really like company because I actually enjoyed watching you free up those key levers and pawls. I say that because I didn't enjoy it when I was doing it myself hundreds maybe thousands of times. These are great videos and bring back a lot of memories. If we had had video techniques like this back in the sixties it would have been a lot easier to teach all those CE's we were hiring then.
Just wanted to say thank you so much for this video. Bought an old IBM Correcting Selectric III, and your videos with the I and II are instrumental in my fixing it.
I'm loving this video! Thank you for sharing your expertise. With these youtube videos people are still going to be maintaining selectrics in 100yrs from now!
Yay!!! I bought an IBM selectric typewriter at the thrift store for $10! It came with a cover, the manual, 5 typewriter balls and a cleaning kit. It is in perfect condition! But lately the "J" started sticking and, thanks to your video, it's fixed now! I also noticed the "foam" that was on the underside of the cover had all deteriorated and fallen between the keys, so I fixed that, too! Thank you!!
Good deal! I had a similar experience except I didn't get all those extras. Picked one up for $18 at a thrift store and was offered $150 cash on the spot by a couple just entering the store as I was leaving.
I kept the machine. No reqrets.
Thank you! We just fixed a typewriter at our office with your video!
Very informative, I collect all vintage manual machine and now like to get my hands on the Selectrics , what a genius engineering .
Thank goodness for TH-cam! Just found one of these for $30 at a thrift store and the only real issues are a sticky spacebar and shift keys.
I just fixed my Selectric 1 with the help of your video! thanks!
Thanks for referring me to this video. This is exactly what I was looking for. What tool are you using to apply the degreaser? And as far as the air goes, would a standard disposable can of compressed air be enough? Would mineral spirits be a suitable degreaser?
Bottle... www.jensentools.com/125-093-long-reach-lube-all-dispensing-bottle-4-oz/p/125-093
Mineral spirits will work, canned air will work, but more air the better
Phoenix Typewriter Ok thanks. You've been a great help
Very helpful! I have this job (and more) waiting for me on a Selectric I. Thanks for this video.
Just picked up a selectric ii with some sticky keys. From what I see, I will need a pick set, compressor, degreaser and lube.
What else should I be looking for and what kind of degreaser and lube should I be lookin for? I’m hoping for Home Depot to have what I need?
My primary chemicals are lacquer thinner & red oil (Marvel Mystery Oil) found at automotive stores.
Also the spray contact cleaner by MG chemicals (product 401 ) is handy
Phoenix Typewriter thanks so much. Hopeful that I can hone my skills to keep that beaut in order
Excellent video. I have two Selectric 2s that are sticky. The closest shop is 3 hours away so I will give this a try myself. I read the comments and noticed that you said we can leave them free of lube or use MG 401B. I have key & rotor (edit: key & rotor oil) which is intended for brass instruments (I can use them in old cameras). Will that do the trick or is the MG 401B better? Also, are you using an air compressor, canned air or a bulb syringe of some sort for blowing the degreaser off?
Key & rotor looks fine, I would blow thru any excess, yes air compressor is the way to go. If the keyboard is sticky chances are other area's & pivots are too.
Any chance you could do a video about putting the spring set back? I knocked it off fully when cleaning. Oops!
Same here!:(
ONLY 35 years!? LOL. Great video. Thank you :-)
I brought home a Selectric III which I inherited (Saturday Sep 12) from my tax accountant. It had been in storage for many decades. Pulled the top cover, checked the motor pulley. Ran my finger over some of the grease and it was not gummy/varnish. I bit the bullet, plugged it in and it powered on. Tab operation and return a little sticky. Added a little lubrication to the rails and it freed up. Backspace tried to operate but wouldn't advance. The slide of the pawl which engages the teeth of the gear, was a little stiff. Some lubricant fixed that too.
Bit my lip and struck a typing key..... It went through the cycle in slow motion and seemed to stall towards the end of the cycle. A couple more times and it freed up too. The only problem now is the ?,/ key hesitant to return, sticks on the up/return. The key doesn't always cycle unless you press it solidly and deliberately.
Oddly the tab cord has a little fray in it. The machine prints every letter and numeral perfectly, even with the carbon ribbon which was on the machine, amazing.
I believe I'll find someone local to go over it though just to be sure. No warm oil smell after it's been on either.
It was a mystery machine as the my accountant made mention a few years ago that he had a Selectric in storage, but not the model. I'm glad in a way it wasn't a Model 50, 60, or 75 :o)
The way you have explained how to repair these is definitely the best. The shortcuts I took were on a machine which was stored in a climate controlled environment and with it's cover in place. I was very lucky.
Do you recommend removing all the sticky old foam inside and if so, what do I replace it with? Also, where would I get one of the bottles you use to squirt on the thinner? BTW.... Thank you very much for recording these videos. Your help is immensely appreciated!!!
Yes, remove foam, I've never replaced it. Bottles = www.jensentools.com/125-093-long-reach-lube-all-dispensing-bottle-4-oz/p/125-093
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 thx SO SO much for taking the time to do this & to answer my question!!! You're the best!!!
That part that you said be careful if it comes up you have to reset all the leaf springs after you move the bar out well that part is bent up and it won't go down and I'm trying to reset all those leaf springs and they won't go back in on the end. it's bent up so what do you recommend? Update: I kinda got them back down, but I turned it back on and the key started to work for a second no sticking but then it stopped typing at all. I'm going to leave it to the experts so what do you think someone would charge me to fix it?
@@nunya_713 When those get bent it's hard to get them straight, replacing spring assembly is the answer
As far as it not typing could be unrelated to key board, Hard to estimate without a first hand inspection
I would be at $120.00 to start, could be double that. Last selectric 2 I just got two days ago from original owner who said he hadn't turned it on in 22 years and should be like new, yes looked like new, BUT it took 2 hours just to get it to type, another 2 hrs to get it to type right & I'm a professional !!
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 Dwayne, my dear, you have the patience of a saint because if this typewriter could talk... It would say this chicky has a mouth of a sailor. LOL and especially after all those lacquer thinner fumes WHEW!!!! Darn thing drove me to drink! 2 margaritas later, all was forgiven. LOL yeah, I think I'll take it to a pro & hopefully they can walk me thru it to save me a few bucks. Wish me luck!!!!
P.S. u ever think of becoming a hypnotist? You would make a great one. you have a great voice. That or a DJ or an announcer. you could do great voice over work
Thanks for making this video! I picked up a Selectric today and have successfully unstuck all of my keys. In the process of doing so I dislodged black e-clip seemingly from the right front. I can’t figure out where it goes. Any ideas? I see a lot of silver e-clips but no other black ones.
If you slid the KB fulcrum out, then that's where it came from. Was snapped on the fulcrum through one of the empty slots on the left side, designed to keep fulcrum from sliding out, unnecessary to re-install, fulcrum is not going to move.
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 thank you for the very prompt reply! If the KB fulcrum is the bar that runs along the entire rear of the key bars then yes I did remove it. That’s a big relief. Now I just need to figure out why sometimes the backspace actuation gets stuck and goes crazy.
After you get all the crud out, do you oil those pivot points and what type of oil works best? Gun oil? 3 in 1 oil? Something else?
Imho, those oils are too heavy too, even if I use the red oil , make sure to blow out ALL the excess so there is only a mirco film left. I have been using the MG401 spray with oil (5%), still blow that out too, sometime I leave dry too.
I just finished cleaning all of the little pivots on my Selectric I - some of them were really stuck hard, but the lacquer thinner worked its magic after a bit. As you, I cleaned the pivots multiple times, blowing with air as well. One thing I noticed is that after a bit of time, they start getting a little stubborn again - not completely stuck, but a little gummier. I continue to clean those. My question is, do you lube those at all after they are all clean?
Also, I noticed that my Selectric 1 doesn't have the holes to be able to push the rod out like the Selectric II you are working on. It doesn't seem quite so easy to get to that rod on this machine.
Those can run dry, lots of parts can run dry on the selectrics.
I thought the selectric 1's KB's were same as 2's. Dremel tool a slot ? I'm gonna have to look next time I get a 1 in the shop.
Do you lubricate the little pivots?
@@gerrykaplan2289 No lubrication necessary, it's a no friction mechanism
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 I got all the keys working, but the return and index keys are not working. Will need to take some photos and post to the FB page. I can tell that the pawl is sluggish - if I manually pull the little latch towards the bottom of the machine, it will properly return, so I think the problem I'm having is all around the keys.
Excellent video Duane, keep 'em coming!
My dad just recently got a selectric II and I've taken it upon myself to repair it, where might I get a pick set like the one you're using? some of the keys are extremely sticky and the pick set I found is a bit too big to get good leverage.
never mind, managed to get them loose!
After you degrease the sticky keyboard do you relube these parts, if so what kind of lube do you use?
You can leave these dry, but I like some kinda coating, so I use this super light lube/cleaner MG 401B
I'm assuming you've had yours forever, but do you have any recommendations for squeeze bottle applicators for the oil and solvent?
What grease should I use to replace the old oil ?
Just bought a selectric in and started cleaning: tilted the machine up to check bottom: when resetting I found a little white plastic piece with double spring: any idea where this goes?
Of course I do, I know where all 2500 parts go in these Selectrics
Sounds like the tab tension transport pulley
th-cam.com/video/E4dLROJ5xQA/w-d-xo.html
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 yep that's what it looks like.. do you have video on how to put the metal mesh that did my best that it wouldn't come off when cleaning the keys after removing the rod. One side came off: leaf spring. Had most keys unstuck and seemed fine until the left leaf spring came off. Also now when hitting any key it does multiple typing haven't a clue why that started
@@flaron352 Been waiting until I knock one of those leaf springs off to shot a video on how I reinstall them, very tricky
Old sticky oil is the primary problem with selectrics nowadays, look up videos about dashes or repeating
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 If you still haven't had the misfortune yet, some pointers in the meantime would be very helpful 😆
@@kaupper3 Pointers on what ? Be specific .
alternatives to lacquer thinner? would krud kutter work as well? thanks
Solvents, mineral spirits, alcohol, never heard or used krud kutter so I don't know
Never used solvents, mineral spirits or alcohol either . . . . .
What should I do if a key or keys are repeatedly triggering? I pressed a few keys and the head typed them, then the head kept triggering. The head has gone all the way to the right but won't stop typing. I tried looking in the both the Selectric III owners manual and service manual but I couldn't find this symptom.
Symptom is 40 year old oil is sticky like molasses,
This video could be 1 reason of many that will cause repeating cycle clutch
th-cam.com/video/cHUYt-8vl94/w-d-xo.html
The cycle clutch is not latching. The clutch rotates 180° per print cycle. The clutch is located on the left side of drive belt pulley. It has two stops on it. A threaded hand cycle tool that screws into the right side of the shift clutch(far right òf machine) is needed to see the cycle clutch lever latching and unlatching from the bottom of machine.
What is the cleaning solution you are using to clean? My Grandfathers typewriter has several sticky keys.
In this video I'm using primarily lacquer thinner, but this is the strongest and most dangerous of all chemicals
I am professionally trained, be careful with this stuff
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 I understand. Do you think that Rubbing Alcohol would work well?
I'm sure it safer, but I Don't know, never tried anything else.
Great video of instructions. Thank you!
This doesn't seem too hard, just time-consuming.
Would Acetone work in place of Lacquer Thinner
WONDERFUL MACHINE 👏👏👏👏👍🏻
Im completely stuck with my Selectric, tab return and shift work, but i get no response from the space bar, and the keys can barely be moved at all, except for the F key (dose not do anything though). I have tried the above in the hopes that it will fix it, but alas, no such luck. The shaft that turns for printing can not be moved by hand.
Any ideas as to what the problem is?
100% sure, but with out a 1st hand look I can't do much analysis, sound's like something is frozen along the power train,
that's over 10 different places that need to be eliminated, more likely a combination of these parts or something unforeseen.
These are precision mechanical machines and the old oils have coagulated cause all kinds of problems too.
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 Could you list possible places in the Selectric that could cause this? Btw, small update, i manged to get backspace working (not space bar though). The backspace latch (i think thats what the plate is called that the backspace and space trigger to, which unlocks the cam for that part) was more or less glued to its shaft, after holding the shaft with small pliers i manged to get it lose with a lot of flushing with Hexane and moving it, fallowed by oiling. Some sort of latch stops the space bar from triggering though, and i have yet to figure out how its released.
I also noticed that the shift function has a point where the shaft is very hard to turn, i have yet to locate the cause of this. The motor manages to move the shaft, but it moves the motor in its mount every time shift is pressed. Any idea?
@@lbochtler With out on-hands look/see/feel/touch it's very hard to explain. Your might need a working selectric to figure out how it should work, study the theory of operations before attempting to fix. every operation this typewriter does requires multiple this to happen instantly, if that is impeded for any reason = failure. Here is a recent video..... th-cam.com/video/0KiHhv7AZXo/w-d-xo.html
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 Good news, i got it some what working, i managed to print 3 lines, though after i pressed shift it locked up again. That gear video did indeed help, that gear was not completely stuck, but very close to being so. I also underestimated how sensitive the cycle clutch release was. I used the adjustment manual to get a lot of the things more fine tuned, which managed to get it working. Now i just need to work out the shift key problems. Thank you for your help.
I have a selectric ii that has the j and = keys stuck so it starts to just randomly type each one. where would I look to un stic them?
Not enough information for me to tell you much, look for missing springs, sticky pivot points, could need compensator ball bearing rack flushed, could be a selector interposer, could be the cycle clutch, could be something unforeseen. I would need to see machine on bench, up close, to determine much.
How do you remove the vinyl sheet under the keys? I would like to remove it because it's all gunk under there?
Basically pick it out piece by piece mostly using long hemostats, again another meticulously annoying process that has to be done on most all these IBM's. An IBM selectric life cycle was considered to be 8 yrs, nobody @ IBM would have imagined these to be in operation in the new millennium.
Thanks man. One more question, can you show how the spacebar is attached. My key seemed to disconnect and just falls and I can't find what holds it in place.
Can't post pictures here, I know the internet has a part diagram somewhere. Spacebar has a more than a few parts & pivots, too many to try to explain. I only learned from having a complete selectric to directly reference to when needed. FB has a typewriter maintenance group that would be helpful.
I discovered the problem. Looks like some welding came undone from the bar to the actual mechanism :/ Hate to ask you yet another question, but do you know what type of light bulb it uses? One's burned out and it doesn't have any identification on it
Those bulbs are proprietary IBM only. They rarely go bad, You can flick it with you finger see if that revives it, make sure it in all the way and lastly swap it with other to verify bad. I have some new bulbs if needed.
really sorry but one more question - you only have selectric II and III for sale it seems. Is there something undesirable about the original?
Selectric 1's are same mechanically, but ribbons are different and hard to get, and of course they don't have the correction feature
I actually have four selectric 1's in my for sale stock right now
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 oh, i missed that on your site. the original is interesting because of the curves - then they got square - like 1980s Chrysler K cars
does it damage the machine to type with sticky keys?
No. . . . in fact, the more these parts move the looser, less sticky, they will become
Bronson M. The ink tape are not responding when typing
Very interesting!
you didn't say - but people be careful the thinner will start to melt the key finish if it spills on them
I do mention the dangers of lacquer thinner in most all my video's in regards to potential plastic damage. There are some plastic that LT has no effect on, like the bottle I'm using to dispense, paper bails arms on selectrics, selectric III plastic key tops are safe, but not selectric II. Most plastics and some finishes 1 drop will leave a un-reversible mark/damage.
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 yes -this is a selectric 1 with glossy keys. Wondering how feasible it is to replace the 2 keys because i think those small marks on just a couple keys wrecks the market value - considering there are hundreds on ebay, people can hold out for perfect. thanks
@@SuperJV4x I agree, I hate imperfections on the key tops, but my experience most people don't seem to care much and pretty much expect some sort of cosmetic imperfections on a 50 year old machine. As far as your question about white out, I do have a method but it does involve using LT with oil, I have perfected this method thru trial/error decades ago and I know now which clear card guides can handle more or less amounts of LT. Generally no one chemical will remove white out and there are also different types of white out (chemical compound) th-cam.com/video/Vf96hYFNAug/w-d-xo.html
@@phoenixtypewriter2136yes it looks a bit like a fingerprint on the R but one that won't rub off. This is light green selectric 1 in otherwise mint cond and now of course I have the keys not sticking. Were there proper names that IBM gave the colors? just for my knowledge, I guess the keys do not come off easily or if so go back on securely? i ask because someone has them listed for sale but no point if changing out is problematic. Thanks again for all your replies
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 i can only blame mike nesmith' mom for making it stubborn
Try WD-40 and a hairdryer. The WD-40 is a very light lubricant and acts as a carrier; it softens and renews the dried out grease. Slowly warm up the metal parts with the hairdryer and the grease will re-flow and mix with the lighter lubricant. That's what I do with the Selectric II's. I haven't had any come back.
Man, after watching this, I think I'd be inclined to just start pouring lighter fluid everywhere and on everything and then toss in a lit match just to make sure it was well and truly done :) I just bought a selectric I for $5 and have no idea what I am getting into :)
All these IBM were heavily oiled and now that oil has coagulated, everywhere, every pivot, 100's/1000's
of potential parts effected. An agitating dip tank would be handy now-a-days for these selectrics
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 well I just figured out how to get the pretty red case off my new to me selectric I and am divng in!
👍👍👍
*Instantly knocks off the thing I'm not meant to knock off*
I'm about ready to throw mine in a ultrasonic cleaner. It works fine but is filthy and years from its most recent maintanice.
i ain't doin all that