Thanks Dane. For whatever reason I've never been afraid of trying and failing... which has made me good at accepting failure and trying again I guess. How's the computer situation coming along?
Radius the edges of your flat English Wheel anvils. That's what's gouging the metal. Some very light wax/lube and lighter pressure goes a long way for a smoother result.
Thank you tank you! I was really hoping people who have experience with these would chime in with some advice. I'm already looking forward to the next one where I apply all the knowledge gained from these comments.
You might try some Knipex parallel jaw pliers instead of crescent wrench for bending tabs etc. - then you don't have to fiddle with the constantly self adjusting gap and you get a nice sturdy non-marring grip on the part.
I've no experience with the english wheel, per se, but I do metal working. I'd wager a shorter stroke with a little less pressure would create less marring... I saw some other folks mention wax - i definitely agree some kind of lubrication would be good. even if it *is* mild steel, it will still stiffen up while cold working, so defo consider annealing any tighter sections. Regarding some ergonomics, I might try putting the wheel a little lower? maybe moving the wheeling motion to be aligned closer to the solar plexus, kinda belly button area? that should give you more control over the movement. Im not sure how possible that is on yer current bench set up, tho... I love what yer doing - it's all coming along great. Excellent work on those sound rounds!
One thing that I've noticed when using an english wheel is that the more one works the metal, it will begin to work harden and become stiffer and no longer move as much (you'll notice if it happens), I've had to anneal motorcycle fenders part way through to be able to continue crowing them. Also, when you form your inner flange on the soundwell, try bending around the entire perimeter a little at a time instead of bending the complete 90° in short sections, that should minimize stretching and give you an even better result.
Maybe. I am not sure what the english wheel would do to the cut out areas, seems like it might make a mess. Having the hole in the center of the cover plate might make it hard to roll in the english wheel also. I could try it, who knows.
Nice hammer form of the sound well edge 22:46 why not hammer form both edges instead of making lots of little cuts will make a better finish if both edges were hammer formed.
Enjoying all your videos still ! The resonator wells look perfect but I couldn’t help but wonder if the lip the cone sits on was a bit narrow. Maybe not ? Great stuff though.
Thanks! I don't think it's too small, I've thought the others were too big lol! The lip of that hot rod cone is tiny. Love the piano blues stuff you do.
James, I think you REALLY need to be wearing a pair of leather gloves when doing the english wheel. I think they will make it both safer and easier. What do you think?
I think if It was me, I'd be strengthening up the English Wheel frame. It seems to be flexing a bit and the bottom wheel arm is rocking a lot. But then I've never used a wheel so what would I know.
I noticed that also while I was editing the video, things moves around like crazy. This was the cheapest entry level english wheel on Amazon, now that I understand how useful they are it might be time to upgrade already.
Might be an interesting video welding all sorts of shit to the frame to stiffen it. The rocking lower wheel arm probably just needs a few more locking bolts. Building a whole new frame wouldn't be that hard for someone with your skills anyway. Cheers for the content James, it's fascinating.
The top anvil on your English Wheel is REALLY narrow, all my anvils, top and bottom are 2 1/2" wide, although I did make my own. In my opinion you used WAY too much pressure, over too small a 'footprint' to form the curve, which has caused the bumpy ridges. Lighter pressure, just 'kiss' the sheet and cover more area. It only takes a couple of thou' of pinch to form a quite heavy curve. Find the centre of the curve that you want to form, then work in an "asterisk" type of pattern...radially, like flower petals. When you get it right they'll be no hammer and dolly work to do.
Wow! That is great. Thank you so much for taking the time to comment. I knew there was a lot more to it. I like the asterisk description, makes perfect sense. I was trying to do that but it definitely takes some practice. I invested a whopping $160 dollars into this english wheel, now that I realize how useful it is this one might become a craigslist item and I'll upgrade. The wider top anvil makes perfect sense. Thank you!
Maybe. My goal would to become more efficient but retain the hand crafted part. That's the part that makes me enjoy building guitars so much. If it's just a stamp it out solder it together process I would probably lose interest very quickly. I'm funny that way, when things get too easy I lose interest. When I lose interest I start doing goofy things like making a copper telecaster because making wood ones is too easy lol! Thanks for following along Rod, appreciate it!
Hi James, I think you'll find 70% is already metric, whereas 4 7/15s of a bees todger is avoirdupois.
Very cool James! You make great progress because you're not afraid to try new tools and methods.
Exactly - you took the words right out of my mouth.
Thanks Dane. For whatever reason I've never been afraid of trying and failing... which has made me good at accepting failure and trying again I guess. How's the computer situation coming along?
Radius the edges of your flat English Wheel anvils. That's what's gouging the metal. Some very light wax/lube and lighter pressure goes a long way for a smoother result.
Thank you tank you! I was really hoping people who have experience with these would chime in with some advice. I'm already looking forward to the next one where I apply all the knowledge gained from these comments.
You might try some Knipex parallel jaw pliers instead of crescent wrench for bending tabs etc. - then you don't have to fiddle with the constantly self adjusting gap and you get a nice sturdy non-marring grip on the part.
I love your videos. I love seeing your creative process and troubleshooting. I feel like your channels gonna blow up soon.
Thank you! I appreciate that!
Looks great! Keep going. You're getting better and better.
Thanks!
I've no experience with the english wheel, per se, but I do metal working. I'd wager a shorter stroke with a little less pressure would create less marring... I saw some other folks mention wax - i definitely agree some kind of lubrication would be good. even if it *is* mild steel, it will still stiffen up while cold working, so defo consider annealing any tighter sections.
Regarding some ergonomics, I might try putting the wheel a little lower? maybe moving the wheeling motion to be aligned closer to the solar plexus, kinda belly button area? that should give you more control over the movement. Im not sure how possible that is on yer current bench set up, tho...
I love what yer doing - it's all coming along great. Excellent work on those sound rounds!
One thing that I've noticed when using an english wheel is that the more one works the metal, it will begin to work harden and become stiffer and no longer move as much (you'll notice if it happens), I've had to anneal motorcycle fenders part way through to be able to continue crowing them. Also, when you form your inner flange on the soundwell, try bending around the entire perimeter a little at a time instead of bending the complete 90° in short sections, that should minimize stretching and give you an even better result.
Nice! Thank you!
Wouldn’t it be possible to make the coverplate with the english wheel instead of the grease-method?🤔
Maybe. I am not sure what the english wheel would do to the cut out areas, seems like it might make a mess. Having the hole in the center of the cover plate might make it hard to roll in the english wheel also. I could try it, who knows.
Great video James!
Thanks!
Nice hammer form of the sound well edge 22:46 why not hammer form both edges instead of making lots of little cuts will make a better finish if both edges were hammer formed.
Enjoying all your videos still ! The resonator wells look perfect but I couldn’t help but wonder if the lip the cone sits on was a bit narrow. Maybe not ? Great stuff though.
Thanks! I don't think it's too small, I've thought the others were too big lol! The lip of that hot rod cone is tiny. Love the piano blues stuff you do.
@@Ninety2guits If there is plenty lip for the cone, then cool ! Thanks about the piano playing !
👍👍 😊😊
James, I think you REALLY need to be wearing a pair of leather gloves when doing the english wheel. I think they will make it both safer and easier. What do you think?
Lol! Gloves? Are those the things that go over your hands? Don't know anything about them.
I think if It was me, I'd be strengthening up the English Wheel frame.
It seems to be flexing a bit and the bottom wheel arm is rocking a lot.
But then I've never used a wheel so what would I know.
I noticed that also while I was editing the video, things moves around like crazy. This was the cheapest entry level english wheel on Amazon, now that I understand how useful they are it might be time to upgrade already.
Might be an interesting video welding all sorts of shit to the frame to stiffen it.
The rocking lower wheel arm probably just needs a few more locking bolts.
Building a whole new frame wouldn't be that hard for someone with your skills anyway.
Cheers for the content James, it's fascinating.
The top anvil on your English Wheel is REALLY narrow, all my anvils, top and bottom are 2 1/2" wide, although I did make my own.
In my opinion you used WAY too much pressure, over too small a 'footprint' to form the curve, which has caused the bumpy ridges.
Lighter pressure, just 'kiss' the sheet and cover more area. It only takes a couple of thou' of pinch to form a quite heavy curve.
Find the centre of the curve that you want to form, then work in an "asterisk" type of pattern...radially, like flower petals.
When you get it right they'll be no hammer and dolly work to do.
Wow! That is great. Thank you so much for taking the time to comment. I knew there was a lot more to it. I like the asterisk description, makes perfect sense. I was trying to do that but it definitely takes some practice. I invested a whopping $160 dollars into this english wheel, now that I realize how useful it is this one might become a craigslist item and I'll upgrade. The wider top anvil makes perfect sense. Thank you!
Damn it! Two posts late!
Noice.
Thanks!
You'll soon be mass-producing these babies!
Maybe. My goal would to become more efficient but retain the hand crafted part. That's the part that makes me enjoy building guitars so much. If it's just a stamp it out solder it together process I would probably lose interest very quickly. I'm funny that way, when things get too easy I lose interest. When I lose interest I start doing goofy things like making a copper telecaster because making wood ones is too easy lol! Thanks for following along Rod, appreciate it!
@@Ninety2guitsMy pleasure James, and I was only kidding anyhow!
Oops! I accidentally hit the thumbs down button. Sorry. I meant 👍👍👍👍!
That's ok, I often have that reaction to myself as well Lol!