To the point! For a long time, I thought that the bend of the paddle blade was to keep it neutral when the shaft itself is already negative. But ai now understand that it is to keep it positive as long as possible when catching. I now focus on "raising the hull"
If we strictly look at the angle of the paddle shaft, the transition from positive to negative angle occurs at different locations depending on whether the paddler is leaning forward for the catch or sitting upright. This somewhat ambiguous notion is further complicated by the fact that many ( most? ) outrigger paddles are bent, with tilted blades, which is why I prefer the following _subjective_ definition: the junction from 'positive' to 'negative angle' occurs when the paddler transitions from primarily _pulling_ with the bottom tracting arm, to mostly _pressing_ down-and-aft on the pommel with the top hand ( making sure not to collapse the power triangle, as indicated, either by extending the top arm prematurely or by flattening it against the chest ). In other words, the point at which top-hand pressure becomes dominant, effort-wise, is the subjective junction between the so-called positive and negative angle part of the stroke, irrespective of shaft or blade angle. In fact, the best visual indicator of this threshold is the angle of the bottom tracting arm as it approaches vertical, since from then on, it is no longer the principal contributor to the 'pull'. Note: High-tempo, front-powered strokes, such as the Huti Pe'e ( = 'fast' or 'leaping' pull ) have virtually _no negative angle,_ since the paddler is leaning forward the whole time ( no time for leaning back to upright ), and the blade exits 'early', near the front-edge of the seat. However, long strokes, such as the Huti Roa ( = long pull )-and variations thereof-or the Huti Pa'ari ( = 'hard', because _deep and long,_ pull: far in front and maximally far in back ), have meaningful-to-substantial negative angle phases, meaning that, at some point, the paddler must apply significant top-hand pressure to, using the anchored blade as leverage, pull himself-and the canoe-no longer merely up to but _past_ the catch's position, much like poling a boat. Note: Substantial pommel pressure is one of the distinguishing traits of the Tahitian style, which is characterized by long, powerful, yet efficient strokes ( = more 'huti', i.e. more pulling ). P.S. Overall, I can't say I find the conventional definition of 'positive' vs 'negative angle' very useful. If anything, I think it leads people to believe that the azimuth of the blade underwater matters a great deal more than it truly does, as if the blade's primary function were to push water toward the back. Whereas, in reality, the blade is effectively anchored-locked-in the water mass, and a change in azimuth doesn't alter that a whole lot, so long as there is steady positive pressure on it. The point is that the locked-in blade serves as a fixed anchor to pull the paddler-and the canoe-first up to the catch's position, and then potentially past it ( for long strokes ).
Would love this same commentary regarding Dragonboat paddles. and ways to achieve a positive blade angle with a straight blade rather than a bend or double bend as in an OC blade
@@GordonSanders same idea with any tool. Turn the hip, set the hands, and guide the blade into the water. The demonstration with the kayak paddle is similar since it is a straight shaft with a straight blade.
@@K2NOPS Thx for the quick response. I do appreciate it. One of the challenges that I see with a Dragonboat paddle is that there is hinging required along with a looser grip in order to plant the paddle deeper in the water far enough ahead while also having a positive angle. What are your thoughts?
Ultimately you need to do whatever your team is doing. If you paddle with a dboat paddle in a solo time trial situation you want to keep a tight grip, don't loosen your connection for "fake" reaching. And, hinging to try and create positive blade angle kills your postural leverages so also should be avoided.
To the point! For a long time, I thought that the bend of the paddle blade was to keep it neutral when the shaft itself is already negative. But ai now understand that it is to keep it positive as long as possible when catching. I now focus on "raising the hull"
If we strictly look at the angle of the paddle shaft, the transition from positive to negative angle occurs at different locations depending on whether the paddler is leaning forward for the catch or sitting upright. This somewhat ambiguous notion is further complicated by the fact that many ( most? ) outrigger paddles are bent, with tilted blades, which is why I prefer the following _subjective_ definition: the junction from 'positive' to 'negative angle' occurs when the paddler transitions from primarily _pulling_ with the bottom tracting arm, to mostly _pressing_ down-and-aft on the pommel with the top hand ( making sure not to collapse the power triangle, as indicated, either by extending the top arm prematurely or by flattening it against the chest ). In other words, the point at which top-hand pressure becomes dominant, effort-wise, is the subjective junction between the so-called positive and negative angle part of the stroke, irrespective of shaft or blade angle. In fact, the best visual indicator of this threshold is the angle of the bottom tracting arm as it approaches vertical, since from then on, it is no longer the principal contributor to the 'pull'.
Note: High-tempo, front-powered strokes, such as the Huti Pe'e ( = 'fast' or 'leaping' pull ) have virtually _no negative angle,_ since the paddler is leaning forward the whole time ( no time for leaning back to upright ), and the blade exits 'early', near the front-edge of the seat. However, long strokes, such as the Huti Roa ( = long pull )-and variations thereof-or the Huti Pa'ari ( = 'hard', because _deep and long,_ pull: far in front and maximally far in back ), have meaningful-to-substantial negative angle phases, meaning that, at some point, the paddler must apply significant top-hand pressure to, using the anchored blade as leverage, pull himself-and the canoe-no longer merely up to but _past_ the catch's position, much like poling a boat. Note: Substantial pommel pressure is one of the distinguishing traits of the Tahitian style, which is characterized by long, powerful, yet efficient strokes ( = more 'huti', i.e. more pulling ).
P.S. Overall, I can't say I find the conventional definition of 'positive' vs 'negative angle' very useful. If anything, I think it leads people to believe that the azimuth of the blade underwater matters a great deal more than it truly does, as if the blade's primary function were to push water toward the back. Whereas, in reality, the blade is effectively anchored-locked-in the water mass, and a change in azimuth doesn't alter that a whole lot, so long as there is steady positive pressure on it. The point is that the locked-in blade serves as a fixed anchor to pull the paddler-and the canoe-first up to the catch's position, and then potentially past it ( for long strokes ).
Would love this same commentary regarding Dragonboat paddles. and ways to achieve a positive blade angle with a straight blade rather than a bend or double bend as in an OC blade
@@GordonSanders same idea with any tool. Turn the hip, set the hands, and guide the blade into the water. The demonstration with the kayak paddle is similar since it is a straight shaft with a straight blade.
@@K2NOPS Thx for the quick response. I do appreciate it. One of the challenges that I see with a Dragonboat paddle is that there is hinging required along with a looser grip in order to plant the paddle deeper in the water far enough ahead while also having a positive angle. What are your thoughts?
Ultimately you need to do whatever your team is doing. If you paddle with a dboat paddle in a solo time trial situation you want to keep a tight grip, don't loosen your connection for "fake" reaching. And, hinging to try and create positive blade angle kills your postural leverages so also should be avoided.