One of the best how-to videos I've ever seen. No three minute pre-amble, no useless intro or story about the drill press. Just here it is...here's how you do it. Going too fast? Pause the video. I wish more how-to videos were like this. OK, I wish ALL of them were like this. Well done.
Great video, thank you. I was considering doing your mod, and while looking at my operator's manual, Low and behold, my cheap Ryobi DP101 has a quill lock built in!! , By way of the rotating depth stop ring (which the drill in the video does not have) you can lock the quill at any position. To lock the quill in any position, first lower the quill into that position, then rotate that depth stop ring all the way opposite of the zero end and lock it down- quill is locked. Rotating the ring backwards (toward zero) from where your quill is positioned allows the quill to move upwards, by the amount you turn the depth stop. Thanks to all the commentor's comments that inspired me look at the manual......
I have a very similar drill press... and I did copy your depth stop trick. Thank you😊 I took the opportunity for refurbishing the whole drill and I was rather happy to see it ages quite well despite being the cheapest I did find at the time.
I have a reason: Milling guitar neck thickness, on the drill press, with a Safe-T-Planer. Depth needs to be precise. I added a Digital Read Out (DRO) to my cheap Ryobi but it does not measure the height of the table, only the quill. If I want to advance the cut by .090", I want to do it at the quill, so the DRO will indicate the CHANGE OF THE DEPTH OF CUT, precisely. I CAN lower the cutter precisely (and measure it with DRO reading) at the quill but I have to engage (pull/ rotate/ and hold) the quill handle to get it to that measurement- that's why I want to lock the quill at the depth my DRO indicates, and not move the table (table up/ down is very course and difficult/ tedious to measure).
My take on this is: 1: The end of the bolt/knob needs to be tipped with BRASS, otherwise damage to quill surface, and the (2) bearing surfaces the quill rides against WILL occur. 2: The same effect can be had by replacing the guide pin set-screw (For those that have a warranty /do not want to mod drill press. 3: One thing NO-ONE has mentioned is IF this mod is done and bolt/knob is positioned between upper and lower bearing surfaces of the quill (or 2 brass tipped adjustment knobs are installed) and pressure is applied prior to the point the quill stops moving... it is DRUM ROLL PLEASE... is a LOW COST WAY of taking out /reducing the amount of quill play! (Adjustment knob(s) applying pressure to quill = reduced play.. 2 knobs allowing for more precise /reduced amount of pressure /more even wear) (2) adjustment /lock down knobs allowing for a say 2 inch long section of flat BRASS bar, with (2) countersunk holes in it for the adjustment /lock down knobs to reside in.
WeAreNotAlone69 you are the only one to mention this.....exactly why I came here in the first place.....I have some play in the quill and wondered if I could reduce it by doing exactly what this chap has done
Wired - just did this , this morning- reduced play from 1.5 thou to .5 thou. Good detailed comment, I also added a small brass tip to the end of the adjustment bolt. Thinking of putting a second one at 90 degrees to reduce tumor even more 😊.
I'm glad you said this.....thank you. I only need to lock the quill position rarely, and tightening the guide pin (I'll have to ponder the view in the manual) is brilliant. I would drill a hole and add the knob except for the quill scratching, already mentioned.
I know I am about seven years late but... I just want to ask... Next to the quill... THere is a bolt that goes into the keyway... If I make the bolt round instead of square, so that it can freely turn in the keyway, would I be able to make a lock without drilling and tapping holes? I did it and it works but... I just want to know if I am damaging the drill press
Witam z Polski nie wiem czy to dobry pomysł z bezpośrednim styku śruby z korpusem wrzeciona ja bym dał grubą śrubę i w niej bym wywiercił otwór oczywiście nie wielki i dałbym wkładkę z brązu lub z mosiądzu co zabezpiecza przed kaleczeniem wrzeciona przy dokręcaniu pozdrawiam
Miscpro @ how did it get bent?...........well....it fell off my trailer! Man it still hurts every time I think about it! LOL!..yeah it is the shaft above the quill. It's a shaft with deep kerfs cut into it, which the pulley slips onto. Thanks for the quick response! I use ratcheted tie-downs now btw!
A handy use of a quill stop/clamp is to hold your work down while you clamp it; it leaves both hands free (drill not turning of course). It's not a depth stop.
Hey great info! Thanks for sharing! Quick question. What is the splined shaft called that the pulley turns on? Mine is bent and I want to replace it. Thanks in Advance.
@@tommorris1815 quill stops stop vibration of the quill when extended, also when not extended in cheaper presses. Edit just realised this is 3 years old haha
Because moving the table up or down also unlocks the side-to-side motion. It also causes up/down pivoting motion about the main tubular axis. Simply put, moving the table causes just about every other setting imaginable to go completely out of whack.
Why you just don't use the screw next to the three handlers (the one you unscrew at 39'') to do that? Congratulations! You've found a tricky solution to a problem that does not exist ...
One of the best how-to videos I've ever seen. No three minute pre-amble, no useless intro or story about the drill press. Just here it is...here's how you do it. Going too fast? Pause the video. I wish more how-to videos were like this. OK, I wish ALL of them were like this. Well done.
Great video, thank you. I was considering doing your mod, and while looking at my operator's manual, Low and behold, my cheap Ryobi DP101 has a quill lock built in!! , By way of the rotating depth stop ring (which the drill in the video does not have) you can lock the quill at any position. To lock the quill in any position, first lower the quill into that position, then rotate that depth stop ring all the way opposite of the zero end and lock it down- quill is locked. Rotating the ring backwards (toward zero) from where your quill is positioned allows the quill to move upwards, by the amount you turn the depth stop. Thanks to all the commentor's comments that inspired me look at the manual......
I have a very similar drill press... and I did copy your depth stop trick. Thank you😊
I took the opportunity for refurbishing the whole drill and I was rather happy to see it ages quite well despite being the cheapest I did find at the time.
Brilliant! Perfect instructions without anything unnecessary.Thank you!
I did this and it works great. However I brazed a small amount of brass on the end of the screw so as not to scratch the quill.
Brilliant, exactly what I wanted to know and how to do it!
Great hope to video. But I can't think of any reason I would need to do this. In your example, you could've just raised that table up?
I have a reason: Milling guitar neck thickness, on the drill press, with a Safe-T-Planer. Depth needs to be precise. I added a Digital Read Out (DRO) to my cheap Ryobi but it does not measure the height of the table, only the quill. If I want to advance the cut by .090", I want to do it at the quill, so the DRO will indicate the CHANGE OF THE DEPTH OF CUT, precisely. I CAN lower the cutter precisely (and measure it with DRO reading) at the quill but I have to engage (pull/ rotate/ and hold) the quill handle to get it to that measurement- that's why I want to lock the quill at the depth my DRO indicates, and not move the table (table up/ down is very course and difficult/ tedious to measure).
My take on this is:
1: The end of the bolt/knob needs to be tipped with BRASS, otherwise damage to quill surface, and the (2) bearing surfaces the quill rides against WILL occur.
2: The same effect can be had by replacing the guide pin set-screw (For those that have a warranty /do not want to mod drill press.
3: One thing NO-ONE has mentioned is IF this mod is done and bolt/knob is positioned between upper and lower bearing surfaces of the quill (or 2 brass tipped adjustment knobs are installed) and pressure is applied prior to the point the quill stops moving... it is DRUM ROLL PLEASE... is a LOW COST WAY of taking out /reducing the amount of quill play!
(Adjustment knob(s) applying pressure to quill = reduced play.. 2 knobs allowing for more precise /reduced amount of pressure /more even wear)
(2) adjustment /lock down knobs allowing for a say 2 inch long section of flat BRASS bar, with (2) countersunk holes in it for the adjustment /lock down knobs to reside in.
WeAreNotAlone69 you are the only one to mention this.....exactly why I came here in the first place.....I have some play in the quill and wondered if I could reduce it by doing exactly what this chap has done
For reducing excessive play of the quill on these small drills then consider this approach.
bedroom-workshop.com/drill-chio/0drill-chio.html
Colin Creed Tattoo Machines .....very interesting....thanks
Wired - just did this , this morning- reduced play from 1.5 thou to .5 thou. Good detailed comment, I also added a small brass tip to the end of the adjustment bolt. Thinking of putting a second one at 90 degrees to reduce tumor even more 😊.
I would not worry about occasionally damaging a 100 dollar drill presses quill but I love idea 2 and 3!
Great idea, I need to do some light milling. That may solve my problem of locking the quill down and easily adjusting it up or down. :)
Quick and easy to understand. Educational and clever innovation. 100 upthumbs from me! Goran, Sweden!
Thanks Savvas for the inspiration. Today, with the guidance of your video I improved my drill press the same way.
great film....great idea.
Great idea. Thank you for your painstaking work more grease to your elbow .
I hate to say this but you already have a quill stop on the side, tightening up the guide pin will achieve the same goal.
I'm glad you said this.....thank you. I only need to lock the quill position rarely, and tightening the guide pin (I'll have to ponder the view in the manual) is brilliant. I would drill a hole and add the knob except for the quill scratching, already mentioned.
I know I am about seven years late but... I just want to ask... Next to the quill... THere is a bolt that goes into the keyway... If I make the bolt round instead of square, so that it can freely turn in the keyway, would I be able to make a lock without drilling and tapping holes? I did it and it works but... I just want to know if I am damaging the drill press
Yup just what I did. See comment above for details.
Witam z Polski nie wiem czy to dobry pomysł z bezpośrednim styku śruby z korpusem wrzeciona ja bym dał grubą śrubę i w niej bym wywiercił otwór oczywiście nie wielki i dałbym wkładkę z brązu lub z mosiądzu co zabezpiecza przed kaleczeniem wrzeciona przy dokręcaniu pozdrawiam
Miscpro @ how did it get bent?...........well....it fell off my trailer! Man it still hurts every time I think about it! LOL!..yeah it is the shaft above the quill. It's a shaft with deep kerfs cut into it, which the pulley slips onto. Thanks for the quick response! I use ratcheted tie-downs now btw!
Real clever...
I will now use my cordless drill to tap.
Does it help with the quill play?
There should be a grub screw on the side which can be tightened and reduces quill movement.
What's that cool fence thingy you got on there?
A handy use of a quill stop/clamp is to hold your work down while you clamp it; it leaves both hands free (drill not turning of course). It's not a depth stop.
Nice idea bro.
Hey great info! Thanks for sharing! Quick question. What is the splined shaft called that the pulley turns on? Mine is bent and I want to replace it. Thanks in Advance.
cool, no talking. nice to see
Wow, bet he has done that a time or two. Probably could do this with his eyes closed. great idea. Think I will give it a try.
Excelente truco.... ya lo aplique a mi taladro de banco
Unless that quill stop is setting in they key way of the quill, you run a real risk of buggering up your quill
+ArcAiN6 I had the same thought!
No really the quill does not rotate it raises and lowers the spindle. The spindle rotates within the quill.
The little silver nut in front of the raise and lower handles is the quill stop adjustment bolt.
Exactly, why not use that- could add a knob.
Fantastic video
I don't think they make drill presses with quill stops anymore, it's such a useful feature
Why not just lift the table?
@@tommorris1815 quill stops stop vibration of the quill when extended, also when not extended in cheaper presses. Edit just realised this is 3 years old haha
que buena solucion es muy sencilla y efectiva gracias por tu gran idea
Good idea👍
Why dont you just lift the table until it meets the sanding drum?
Because moving the table up or down also unlocks the side-to-side motion. It also causes up/down pivoting motion about the main tubular axis. Simply put, moving the table causes just about every other setting imaginable to go completely out of whack.
@Russell218 if you need that much accuracy, you shouldn't be anywhere near a $100 drill Press.
Классная доработка!
I modify the right screw, and works same good, and dont need make a new hole
What modification did you make? Thanks.
Just replace existing screw with a longer bolt with a handle on.
Great Tutorial.
Nice job!!!
Yes that's true it isn't perfect, guess it depends how often you plan on using the quill stop.
well . very very is a good idea.
Fantastic! :)
brilliant AND NO SHIT MUSIC
Pure sull einhell si può fare ? Io ho questo th-cam.com/video/N-MTYFG2FQ4/w-d-xo.html
this is produced by the drill press lobby to increase sales from everyone destroying their quill and giving their press shakes and jives
That will work but I would hand tap treads and not use a drill that fast,,
Why you just don't use the screw next to the three handlers (the one you unscrew at 39'') to do that?
Congratulations! You've found a tricky solution to a problem that does not exist ...
39 inches?
@@SavvasPapasavva Seconds
That's a quill lock, not a depth stop fyi
This is not a depth stop it's just butchery