Through Mortise And Tenon Joint - (Made Easy)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
- Through Mortise And Tenon Joint. In this video Rob Cosman shows you how to cut a through mortise and tenon joint. This is a tricky joint but Rob makes it easy
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* ROB'S OTHER MORTISE & TENON VIDEOS:
- Basic Mortise and Tenon Joint: • Mortise And Tenon Join...
- Tusk Tenons: • Mortise and Tenon Join...
- Secrets to perfect fitting tenons: • Nine Secrets to Perfec...
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Check out Rob's Mortise and Tenon video playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLqUOljnY0d9fZ8s6VC11GjKIHIf6e30xn.html
You are one of the few TH-cam woodworkers who teach, rather than show, how to work wood. Thank you.
Wow, thanks!
Beautiful joinery! The way you fixed the blowout on the face of the mortice was the most valuable information you shared. The process and the fix makes it a great video! Thanks for sharing. Take care!
Thanks for watching and commenting
I was thinking that Rob wouldn't get a lot of practice fixing wee issues like that, but then remembered the courses he does for wounded veterans. I am sure he will have helped a good few of those people showing them how to fix their inevitable mistakes. From my point of view, its amazing that some of us come to these videos as reasonably experienced woodworkers, but still go away having learned a whole bunch of new tricks. One trick he didn't even mention today, but was evident, was Robs use of the headband magnifier. I am absolutely going to start using the one that spends too much time hanging on the wall, when it should be on my head. Old eyes are not what they used to be.
I really enjoyed this session. I’m 68 and still learning. Also kudos to your cameraman, getting all those great shots.
Jake is an awesome camera dude
A very clearly explained and detailed demonstration of all the processes involved in producing a through mortise and tenon joint. The close up video shots of the complete marking out process, that of chopping out the mortise ( 2 methods shown) and assembling the joint together alongside the superb commentary and tips, resulted in a highly informative video. That you included content to overcome the break out of end fibres plus methods to refine the fit was most useful. Many thanks TEAM COSMAN for this and all your woodwork input and shared knowledge- it makes such a difference and is fully appreciated!!!
Thanks for a great comment Jeff. This went a little long but we thought it was worth it
I was really happy to see you posted a new video. Thanks very much for this. You really made my Saturday. Leaving the little boo boo and the recovery from it was a gem. I always watch these at least twice. It's a kind of a lot to absorb properly in one viewing so I tend to watch twicew initially, then come back to it as many times as I need to when I finally get around to trying the technique for myself. I must have viewed the ring box video 4 or 5 times whike making a few of them for my wife and son. This is wonderful stuff. Thanks again for sharing it with us.
Thanks for watching and commenting. You keep watching and we will keep filming
I greatly appreciate your dedication to quality workmanship. Woodworking by hand is never an exact art. By including the small problems and the repair is probably more important than the end result of the joint for this video Thanks!
Thanks for showcasing the inherent errors that can be involved in this tough joint, and resulting from even a pro like yourself. And ever more importantly, for illustrating what to look out for and how to then perfect both the tearout in the mortise face and adjusting the tenon to fit. We learn as much if not more from troubleshooting and fixing the inevitable imperfections that not.
Really good video, Rob. Stellar camera work by Jake on this one, too, we can see all the fine detail as you fixed the shoulder. Outstanding.
Thanks for commenting
This was one of your most enjoyable videos ever Rob! I love your patience and work tempo. Plus, when you make a mistake, which everyone does no matter how good you are, you don't edit that out, but make it a teaching moment! Thank you for creating these tutorials.
Thank you for watching. Keep watching and commenting and we will keep filming, mistakes and all
Your videos are so helpful. Many thanks.
Love your videos, and a little happy to you too are not perfect every time. Teaching how to correct a miss cut was especially helpful.
simply real.
Great video, Rob. I liked seeing you address problems as you went. For us mere mortals problems are. The norm, and working through them is part od the process. Stu
I agree and always show my errors
Thanks rob! Came out just like you instructed
Thank you for showing the problem and how to fix it. I am glad that happened so I could see what techniques you used to fix it. Appreciate the transparency. God bless you Rob and crew. Top notch.
It was refreshing to see Rob make a couple of (corrections ?) ;) and show us how to rectify them, we all know how that feels. How lucky we are to have such tutorials at this level and for free, before the Internet we would have to spend lots of money on magazines if you wanted to learn anything at this level, but magazines could never show the high standards that Rob attains. Great camerawork and something else that can't be faulted.
It always the videos that have you fixing mistakes along the way that I learn the most.
Thanks. We never cut out the mistakes
Beautiful work Rob. Thank you for showing the process.
Thanks for watching. What video should we shoot next?
I really enjoyed this session
Bob, you have a great teaching method.
You have such great steady control with your chisels. The precision is superb and the result is so satisfying.
I gifted a set of morticing chisels a few years ago...wish I had them back😊...but now maybe check out the ones you offer...
Planning a simple build that this joinery will be the perfect accent.
Appreciate the tutorial.
Good luck on the build. Send us a pic when you are done
Love your channel Rob👍
And with technology these's days, it's amazing and a privilege to watch a great Master and teacher do real work just national teacher and Craftsman an that's sucks, definitely a dying art n you one that's keep it alive and interesting with
Its a mission of mine to get the knowledge out there to keep the craft alive
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
You are so welcome!
I learned a lot! Thanks for sharing! It’s a beautiful joint and I can’t wait to try it out!
As always, thank you. You are are a great inspiration.
Keep watching and we will keep filming
Good video Rob I learned a few more things. Thanks for making the video.
This was an incredibly helpful and insightful tutorial, Rob. Thank you very much!
Glad you liked it John, hope you’re well!
Thanks for another fine lesson Rob and team!
Thanks for watching
4 mortises a day is what I am practicing to perfect my technique. Thanks for the incredible video to guide me!!
Check him out, oconnorwoodworking.com
Great demonstration
Thanks for watching
Outstanding, all the way through.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for commenting
I really enjoy your videos, I have learned tons from it. Wish I would be able to afford any of your tools since in Honduras, obtaining quality tools is almost impossible, and the acquisition gap is incredible. Anyways I hope someday I am at least somehow remotely as good as you.
Beautiful result, Rob~! Definitely something I want to try my hand at on a project. Thanks for the expert tutorial~!!
Go for it!Its really very easy
Excellent.
Thanks Papa
Nice work Rob.
Thanks for watching
Thank you 💕💕
You’re welcome 😊
“Never assume” and plane blade marking knife. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching
It would be nice if you made a video about fixing various mistakes like ripped off wood fibers, too big gaps in joints, etc.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Just like Apollo 13, the achievement is fixing something that didn't go according to plan. Nice joint which I have a use for.
Ummm Apollo 13, I like that
do you think you should practice dovetails on pine or other soft woods?
In my opinion, I think if you learn the hardest woods, you will have no issues with the softer woods. I practice on maple, walnut and sapele.
Can I ask Rob why you changed the settings on the router plane from one side to the other? Is it not normal to have both cheeks of the tenon the same by leaving the one setting on the router plane?
Great video expecially how you fixed the blow out
I only wanted to start each side with just the bare minimum to get the tenon parallel with the face. I was worried if I just kept the same setting I would have taken too much off. Would rather have to sneak up on the fit than risk taking off to much and losing the fit
@@RobCosmanWoodworking gotta, never thought of that. Really nice video
Early morning to ya
And to you
For some reason I always found through mortise and tenon easier, probably because as long as you mark it properly, minor angle deviations cancel out and you end up with a better joint overall, plus you can just put a peg through it since the joint is already visible and skip glue or at least not rely on it. Totally worth the extra time compared to the blind mortise. I also believe that this is not the 1800 when good joinery was as common as dirt, and joints should never be hidden as they are incredibly rare these days.
Nor joints made with dowels in fiberboard!!!!
Great video! I'm working on a tool box with a through mortise and tenon handle. The walls of the box are oriented with the grain running horizontally while the mortise is oriented vertically. This seems to create some difficulties because as I mortise, it starts to split the along the grain (the width of the box). Any tips on how to handle this better?
I'm using your IBC mortise chisel on some 3/4 birch wood and padauk handle.
just purchased some of your plane magic from amazon, smh... unreliable deliveries through them for some reason.... but I ordered more and am praying it comes this time !
Hi Rob. Thanks for the great video.
One joint took about 35+ minutes. If you're doing furniture with lots of joints, is going to take a very long time to complete, say a set of 6 chairs and a table? Or is there some trick you use to make the project go faster? Am I missing something? At this pace, a good quality furniture would take about 18 months to finish.
Well without errors this is a 10-15 minute joint. I am not teaching modern production methods, rather traditional woodworking techniques for hobby woodworkers. These are the techniques I use to build custom fine furniture. I don’t do production work, not what I am interested in
Hi Rob, another amazing video. I have a question on a separate issue. When gluing the box dowel joint i cannot get the surfaces to bond. My dowel exact 3/8 inch. Could it be that i am clamping with to much pressure? I opened the lid after 30 mins to test and the glue had hardly contacted the lid surface. Thanks, Ash
Ummm. Could be a few things . 1) are you using oily exotic wood? 2) does the dowel fit into the groove nicely? 3) are you using enough glue?. 4) did you put the wax in the wrong place?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thankyou for your prompt response. 1. The wood is new guinea rosewood i have not have issues gluing this wood in the past. 2. The dowell fits exact into the slot. The dowel was a snug fit into your 3/8 centre drill hole jig. I also use your 3/8 cove bit. When i glued it, i clamped it gently and tapped the towel to ground it then applied lots of pressure. When i tested the joint 30 mins later there was no resistance and the glue on the lid barely made contact with the dowel. There is a .5mm gap between the lid and back. 3. I applied glue to the back and top. Not the dowel. I used enough that when it came apart, the glue had pushed into the waxed areas a bit. 4. I taped and applied wax to the correct areas then wiped off any excess before gluing. Sorry for so much reading, i just dont know whats happening. Appreciate your help. Love working with your tools. I also picked up the mun ebony DT saw which will be kept for an heirloom for my son.
Hi Rob,
I think I may know the issue. I think my hinge was not recessed deep enough. I needed to route more of the cove bit into the lid and back. there was only a bees dick more than 1/4 of the round surface area to glue. if I am to plane the hinge flush on the back, I believe the steel wire will show so Im going to leave it round. I also think I need to let the glue to set for over 24 hours because when It broke the first time after 20 hours the tightbond glue was not set hard. Thanks for all your content as usual. Cheers
If you were doing this on your mortiser is there any special techniques or precautions?
I like the exterior masking tape little more durable.
Good tip
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
👍
So if I understand correctly, you should keep the tenon piece a bit longer than needed in order to correct mistakes on the shoulders if necessary?
No. My shoulder error was ultimately caused by me not making the mortise perfectly square. After the filming I figured out that the DIY jig I used was not square throwing off the mortise and causing the shoulders to have a gap. It all boils down to making sure everything is square
This seems much more complicated. Is this more for education purposes, rather than actual practice? This feels so much more convoluted than anything I've seen in practice.
I like the third rule
A good tried and true rule
@@RobCosmanWoodworking i saw a guy using whole numbers on wood by holding a tape diagonally so you get whole numbers. Ie if the wood is 1”1 measure 📐 diagonally to get to 2” and half or quarter that.
I'd guess I've made about 400 mortise and tenon joints, but I've only studied the through tenon joint. As I expected, it's a joint cut through both sides of a board. This precision and my lack of experience has stopped me.
The through is not nearly as forgiving as a blind M&T. Its mostly decorative, but give it a try at least once
Could you lightly bevel the end of the tenon before adding the final bevel to reduce the chance of pushing out fibres on the mortise?
Yes you could do that
Hey Rob, I'm a fairly young woodworker so I'm on a bit of a budget. Was wondering what u would recommend for a starter kit of five planes from your website. I've done research to try to decide but figured I should ask the man himself.
Before you spend it all on planes think about your sharpening gear. Get a 5.5 and a low block. Medium shoulder, #7 jointer and a small router plane to answer your plane question.
Fantastic, thank you Rob. I will get some trend gear alongside the planes👍
Honest woodworking coming at ya folks, Rob could’ve easily edited out the little bit of blowout but instead he used it as a teaching moment. Turns “Ahh Shoot” into “No problem” . Thanks Rob !
Its learning how to fix problems that really elevates your skill set
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I agree, it applies to all the trades in my opinion !
What is the practical purpose of a through mortise and tenon when it isn’t wedged for breakdown purposes? Is it just for added glue surface?
That’s more an added bonus, this would just be another method for making it an aesthetically pleasing joint. An alternative would be a through-wedged tenon.
Could you recommend a mortise gauge? Can seem to find one with two wheels. Thank you.
Rob makes and sells the exact one he used on his site
Buy the one Rob sells you will not find a better tool for the purpose!
I recommend the one we sell on our website at RobCosman.com
What are the magnifying lenses you are wearing ?
Opti-visor
I've never found square sided mortice chisels available in the UK, everything is trapezoidal.
I hear you, that is why we made these.
which router plane are you using to true up the tenon?
That’s the Lie-Nielsen small router plane, with an open throat. Either would be fine though.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thank you sir!
Beautiful joint...but...way to much time and not the strongest joint by a long shot...we all know glue fails after a while...two wedges would make it so much stronger put in after joint was put together then just bevel the wedges ...yes ...no ?...🖖
One of those itty bitty tips would have been the perfect tool for that repair. Just saying
Good idea
Someone needs a haircut 😉
You are telling me!!!!!