FYI - The 'muscle in the shoudler' he never uses is infraspinatus, which performs external rotation of the shoulder and helps stabilise the top of the arm bone in it's socket! Source: practicing doctor, UK Magnus - amazing content as always
@@Go3nthar This one is called "no money". You grab a band with both hands, keeping elbows for the whole time close to the side of the chest and stretch the band to reach 45 to 60 degree angle with each forearm.
This exercise in particular helped me a ton while recovering from a dislocated shoulder. After a couple of months it felt very stable again due to this exercise (Of course i had to do other exercises as well)
While you are in switzerland maybe you could collab with Soyfa Yokoyama, she also has a youtube channel and is on the swiss national climbing team, would be really great to see you climb with a really strong female climber!
This is super interesting. I've progressed to a level now (7a+ish) where posture has become a problem. I'm also a tall guy. Actually researched the best antagonist training for climbing a week ago, and this video is just absolutely perfect. Thank you so much :)
Hey Magnus ! it's nice to hear that you are coming to switzerland ! You should definitely try to meet one of our famous climber Fred Nicole and maybe try some hard stuff on our outdoor crags !
TRS the ready state is a good source for rehab and strength; Strong first and Pavel Tsatsouline has some good knowledge and the good man Buckberger has great ideas and exercise for the rotator cheers
I love all your videos magnus, but the educational ones i always watch multiple times, as someone who started climbing as an adult i need all the training and injury prevention i can get!
It's actually incredible how you get such a high production quality on these self-shot videos. It must take a lot of time and I think it's fair to say that we all REALLY appreciate the extra effort you put in to make each video so enjoyable to watch!
Magnus, don't let the wrist roller just unroll / fall freely! Lower with control for added forearm engagement - it's easier than rolling up, but controlled lowering increases time under tension and burns slightly differently. Thanks for the video as always!
I've currently started doing a lot of these exercises because I started getting the climber posture. Great that you're getting the word out there. I was getting to the point that my antagonist muscles was so weak in comparison that I was getting injuries everywhere
Magnus - the dumbell when you're laying on the floor is for rotator cuffs. Really useful - you can also do it standing up with a resistance band. Really cool you showed a different way!
Magnus will push the sport of competition mixed climbing! Very similar to how world tour cyclists participate in American gravel events and often dominate
Within the first 33 secs I subscribed! I've been plagued with inaction and fear of working out: the knowledge that I might develop permanent limitations or imbalances due to armwrestling and climbing. This video I hope will help me start being consistent!
a good idea is also to train antagonist muscles like the chest when warming up. Not doing much, but doing a little bit every training session might not give you bigger muscles but keep you healthy..(just a guess)
@@zacharylaschober You could do this every other day with sport specific training and not get injured. Providing you take eating and recovery seriously. It's all about goals, you can train heavy and get big or train sport specific and get good at a sport. I think Ross Edgley book Blueprint is the prefect breakdown on training cycles.
I've read that chest is not really an antagonist muscle in climbing, as it's used in a lot of movement (each time you climb on compression boulders, obviously in pushing movements, but also in a lot of pulling movement where it's used).
@@miguelgazquez5717 hmm yeah but i think it‘s more about volume and the relatively of the muscles activated. If you are that strict, wrist extensors would also not be antagonists, as you definitely use them when pinching. The fact is that extensors and chest muscles, although being used in some way or another, don‘t develop nearly as strong as your back does(or parts of your back), which can cause serious issues and injuries. I think i have very weak extensors compared to my flexors, and that might be a reason why i was injured basically every time i climbed regularly..
@@SnowmansApartment Yeah, you're right. I guess a more precise way to talk would be to say to which point a muscle is an antagonist ? Intuitively I would guess that the chest is "less antagonistic" than wrist extensors, but I don't really know (and maybe we just shouldn't care).
Very important advice for people who use wrist rollers: Don't stop when you've moved the weights to the top, roll them down as well and try not to lose good form. It's an incredible exercise if done well.
Thank you Magnus for the training tips. Also, great ideas for the videos coming up, definitely looking forward to those - especially learning more about ice climbing
The last exercise is a shoulder external rotation exercise, very very important for anyone who is strength training and doing a push workout. For me, I prefer doing them standing with a rubber band, so there's more tension at the end of rep
Oh can’t wait for another Pete and Magnus combo!!!!! Exciting!!!! Hope to see some cracks! Maybe one of the parkour crack stuff the wide boyz have been doing
The underside is called the forearm flexors and the outside is the forearm extensors, fyi. Very important to train the extensors and also some sideways wrist motion to keep your wrists and elbows healthy. In Emil's video about slopers he mentions some wrist exercises that helped him stop getting injured all the time.
Also, the exercise at 4:00 is for the rotator cuff, the part of your shoulder that essentially lets you do external rotation - the movement that Magnus is showing - and it does feel really good because it tends to be under trained and that muscle group is super important for shoulder health and stabilization. Ideally, you should pick a lighter weight that allows you to get the full range of motion, bringing your forearm to an almost vertical position if you're lying on your side like Magnus is, but obviously if you're pretty tight you will be more "closed".
That last excersize is for your rotator cuff, besides doing them horizontally you can also do them vertically (as in up and down rather than across) it's another way to work then slightly differently.
I can't wait for the next few vid ideas you have!!! My exgf is a gymnast and coach, so it'll be funny watching guys do female gymnastics. Plus i just watched "The Alpinist" on Netflix about Marc-Andre and it was cool to see him ice climb. I'd love to get back into climbing and go ice picking this year!
It's very funny to watch a professional athlete performing basic weight training and looking so beginner while doing them.😅 But gotta respect that modesty and humbleness of you.🙌
The last excercise where you lie on your side with your bottom arm in front of your waist is called "dumbell external Rotation". It is a great excercise if you have weak external rotators.
I love training videos, even if they aren't the best for the algorithm I always love learning a little bit more about becoming a stronger climber! Could you please do some videos that include finger and grip strength for the beginner /intermediate level ? I don't think I'm doing to be doing dyno's on a campus board anytime soon lol
Whole range of external rotation exercises to do besides the lie down or prone dumbbell external rotation, and I find a cable to be more consistent for the full range of motion of each exercise, plus assist bands can work anywhere and are an effective warmup if getting directly to the project.
hey magnus you should look into gating some colour correction gels( CTO) for you lights , or not running your lights to high just run them at 50%, with more diffusion, with some one with your skin tone you just reflect the light . So I would recommend getting some CTO to make the light more orange ( this is much more flattering on the skin tone) and some diffuser to help soften then light, This will help make your light look at lot nicer and not blow out and look over exposed. Keep up the great videos love from Australia
Iove watching videos aboit antagonistic workouts! Starting to get older so I've become super aware that I am prone to injury. One note - watching the Geek Climber/Hooper's Beta collab about the wrist roller. They were saying that unrolling the rope down is actually more important for the outside forearms and that you shouldn't just let it unwind. Just food for thought
Ice-Climbing Worldcup in Switzerland, so you are coming to Saas Fee?! Awesome! If you are also planing for some bouldering/climbing sessions, there is a 8c+ Route at the Vertic-Climbing Gym in Saxon which is about 1h from Saas Fee or some nice Indoor-Bouldering in Baltschieder which is just 20min away! However, enjoy the beautifull Landscape here at Valais/Wallis!
To anyone who wants to do the wrist roll exercise, I find that its more effective to use a barbell rather than the dowel and rope. With a barbell you can just keep going and going and going, you don't need to let go to unwind the weighted rope
The dowel and rope is a harder exercise because it's constantly trying to spin in your hands. If you go with heavy weight it's hard just to keep the rope from unraveling.
@@d.nilsson628 interesting point, I didn't consider that. So would it be best to hold at the top/end of a weighted rope for a few seconds before you let it unravel?
@@d.nilsson628 just added a top-level comment about this, as I didn't see your online reply. Just letting go and letting it unroll itself is skipping half of the exercise!
Magnus inspired me to try wall climbing, and today I went for the first time and managed to climb a few 6b's and 6b+'s. Although my finger tips have some light bruises
Another Great video, thanks. Iceclimbing is so much fun, not at all like regular climbing but for shure you are in for a treat. Wish for more outside bouldering, maybe a trip to Fontaine bleau?
I would advise to do the seated dumbell press on a flat bench i.e. without the back support. It requires a lot more shoulder stabilisation which means you're not as strong but you're training more of the muscles around the shoulder girdle.
Hey, Magnus, thank you for this video. Will incorporate these into my training. Just a small tweak to what you said regarding "building a lot of muscle, especially if you do a lot of reps": 3-5 @ heavy leads to strength, 6-10/12 @ medium leads to hypertrophy (muscular look), and 12+ @ medium/light leads to muscle endurance
Magnus, please try to do the 1000 pull ups in one hour challenge! I think you could be one of the very few people who could actually nail this challenge!
You’ll probably get more bang for your buck with those rear delt fly’s if you do face forward on an incline bench. Helps your torso stay in that killer angle
hi magnus big fan , for your rope on a roller exercise , we used to do that for hockey training for wrist shot strenght , we use 2 hockey pucks as weight but arms have to be straight , and from ground to roller then back down, my point is you should try lighter but straight arms and locked elbows, and lots of reps :) good day sir !
When wrist rolling I always roll up, slowly roll it down and then back up on the other side of the knot and back down again, that way you get a lot more time under tension and it burns a lot more
Good one Magnus! I know the training content doesn't get as many views, but it's really helpful to all climbers!
FYI - The 'muscle in the shoudler' he never uses is infraspinatus, which performs external rotation of the shoulder and helps stabilise the top of the arm bone in it's socket!
Source: practicing doctor, UK
Magnus - amazing content as always
The production quality on this one is outstanding! Good job magnus!
The lighting, angles, and production on this video are sooo good, Great Work!
The last one is external shoulder rotation. It targets two of the rotator cuff muscles, the infraspinatus and teres minor.
I think if people don't have weights at home but for example an elastic band they can attach it to a door handle and easily do the same exercise :)
And please tale it real easy with the weights with this one. Talking like 1-2 kilos. Those muscles are tiny and very easy to injure.
@@Go3nthar This one is called "no money". You grab a band with both hands, keeping elbows for the whole time close to the side of the chest and stretch the band to reach 45 to 60 degree angle with each forearm.
This exercise in particular helped me a ton while recovering from a dislocated shoulder.
After a couple of months it felt very stable again due to this exercise (Of course i had to do other exercises as well)
Lmao I use to use the same profile picture, now I just have it as my wallpaper. Beautiful dolomites
While you are in switzerland maybe you could collab with Soyfa Yokoyama, she also has a youtube channel and is on the swiss national climbing team, would be really great to see you climb with a really strong female climber!
Yeah, I would love to see this
Yes pls
Yes
That wipe at 5:57 is the best camera transition Magnus has done so far.
looking forward to those future idea's for content, also very excited to see Pete again. WIDE BOYZ
This is super interesting. I've progressed to a level now (7a+ish) where posture has become a problem. I'm also a tall guy. Actually researched the best antagonist training for climbing a week ago, and this video is just absolutely perfect. Thank you so much :)
Hey Magnus ! it's nice to hear that you are coming to switzerland ! You should definitely try to meet one of our famous climber Fred Nicole and maybe try some hard stuff on our outdoor crags !
The camera angles and lighting in this video is looking absolutely amazing
TRS the ready state is a good source for rehab and strength;
Strong first and Pavel Tsatsouline has some good knowledge
and the good man Buckberger has great ideas and exercise for the rotator
cheers
I love all your videos magnus, but the educational ones i always watch multiple times, as someone who started climbing as an adult i need all the training and injury prevention i can get!
It's actually incredible how you get such a high production quality on these self-shot videos. It must take a lot of time and I think it's fair to say that we all REALLY appreciate the extra effort you put in to make each video so enjoyable to watch!
Magnus, don't let the wrist roller just unroll / fall freely! Lower with control for added forearm engagement - it's easier than rolling up, but controlled lowering increases time under tension and burns slightly differently. Thanks for the video as always!
can't wait for the videos with Pete again! you two bounce off each other really well.
I've currently started doing a lot of these exercises because I started getting the climber posture. Great that you're getting the word out there. I was getting to the point that my antagonist muscles was so weak in comparison that I was getting injuries everywhere
I'M SO HYPED for the women's gymnastics video!
Cant wait for the ice climbing video and gymnastics also sounds quite interesting
Looking forwards to the ice climbing video
Magnus - the dumbell when you're laying on the floor is for rotator cuffs. Really useful - you can also do it standing up with a resistance band. Really cool you showed a different way!
So excited to see videos with Pete again!
Magnus will push the sport of competition mixed climbing! Very similar to how world tour cyclists participate in American gravel events and often dominate
I always get really excited to go climbing, when I see your videos. Keep it up ! Great content
Within the first 33 secs I subscribed! I've been plagued with inaction and fear of working out: the knowledge that I might develop permanent limitations or imbalances due to armwrestling and climbing. This video I hope will help me start being consistent!
a good idea is also to train antagonist muscles like the chest when warming up. Not doing much, but doing a little bit every training session might not give you bigger muscles but keep you healthy..(just a guess)
More effective to do infrequently about once a week but at a reasonable intensity, otherwise there isn’t enough breakdown and repair stimulus.
@@zacharylaschober You could do this every other day with sport specific training and not get injured. Providing you take eating and recovery seriously.
It's all about goals, you can train heavy and get big or train sport specific and get good at a sport. I think Ross Edgley book Blueprint is the prefect breakdown on training cycles.
I've read that chest is not really an antagonist muscle in climbing, as it's used in a lot of movement (each time you climb on compression boulders, obviously in pushing movements, but also in a lot of pulling movement where it's used).
@@miguelgazquez5717 hmm yeah but i think it‘s more about volume and the relatively of the muscles activated. If you are that strict, wrist extensors would also not be antagonists, as you definitely use them when pinching. The fact is that extensors and chest muscles, although being used in some way or another, don‘t develop nearly as strong as your back does(or parts of your back), which can cause serious issues and injuries.
I think i have very weak extensors compared to my flexors, and that might be a reason why i was injured basically every time i climbed regularly..
@@SnowmansApartment Yeah, you're right. I guess a more precise way to talk would be to say to which point a muscle is an antagonist ? Intuitively I would guess that the chest is "less antagonistic" than wrist extensors, but I don't really know (and maybe we just shouldn't care).
Very important advice for people who use wrist rollers: Don't stop when you've moved the weights to the top, roll them down as well and try not to lose good form. It's an incredible exercise if done well.
Excellent video, I nerd out watching your editing and cinematography skills!
Magnus skipping holds on those two super hard boulder problems is just...wow!
multi-cam is insane! Your prod has glow-up once again! Amazing
Much appreciated. As a newbie that just got injured I don’t want to be off the wall for so long again!
Upcoming content sounds great, look forward to the ice climbing!
Haircut is looking fresh magnus!! Great video as always!
I have been looking forward to a new video of yours man! This was fun!
Thank you Magnus for the training tips.
Also, great ideas for the videos coming up, definitely looking forward to those - especially learning more about ice climbing
Looking forward to you being in Switzerland, we have awesome winter climbing areas as well if you wanna feel some rock ;)
The last exercise is a shoulder external rotation exercise, very very important for anyone who is strength training and doing a push workout.
For me, I prefer doing them standing with a rubber band, so there's more tension at the end of rep
That is the kind of video I am following your channel for! Love the second part 🤘🏻
I’m from the future, great video Magnus 👍🏻
The Wrist Roller exercise really induces the worst sore fore arms you can imagine :D especially if you have never done it before
Absolutely loved the way this was filmed mate
thank u so much, ive been looking for a video like this!
Thank you Magnus for making this video. Such an important topic for climbers to be aware of in their training!
Oh can’t wait for another Pete and Magnus combo!!!!! Exciting!!!! Hope to see some cracks! Maybe one of the parkour crack stuff the wide boyz have been doing
Oooo shit I'm so psyched for Magnus Ice Climbing!! 😄 💪
Plans sound good, so stoked for what's coming Magnus!! :)
so psyched for the ice climbing!
Finally, Magnus' secrets of getting not injured! Great!
The underside is called the forearm flexors and the outside is the forearm extensors, fyi. Very important to train the extensors and also some sideways wrist motion to keep your wrists and elbows healthy. In Emil's video about slopers he mentions some wrist exercises that helped him stop getting injured all the time.
Also, the exercise at 4:00 is for the rotator cuff, the part of your shoulder that essentially lets you do external rotation - the movement that Magnus is showing - and it does feel really good because it tends to be under trained and that muscle group is super important for shoulder health and stabilization.
Ideally, you should pick a lighter weight that allows you to get the full range of motion, bringing your forearm to an almost vertical position if you're lying on your side like Magnus is, but obviously if you're pretty tight you will be more "closed".
Thanks for sharing. This is super useful info for someone looking to safely get into climbing.
That last excersize is for your rotator cuff, besides doing them horizontally you can also do them vertically (as in up and down rather than across) it's another way to work then slightly differently.
I'm psyched to see you ice climb!
How is no one talking about the lighting???
I can't wait for the next few vid ideas you have!!! My exgf is a gymnast and coach, so it'll be funny watching guys do female gymnastics. Plus i just watched "The Alpinist" on Netflix about Marc-Andre and it was cool to see him ice climb. I'd love to get back into climbing and go ice picking this year!
Definitely looking forward to seeing Pete again on your channel, Magnus =)
It's very funny to watch a professional athlete performing basic weight training and looking so beginner while doing them.😅 But gotta respect that modesty and humbleness of you.🙌
The last excercise where you lie on your side with your bottom arm in front of your waist is called "dumbell external Rotation". It is a great excercise if you have weak external rotators.
Upcoming videos sound really top !!
The exercise you’re talking about is for your rotator cuff
I love training videos, even if they aren't the best for the algorithm I always love learning a little bit more about becoming a stronger climber!
Could you please do some videos that include finger and grip strength for the beginner /intermediate level ? I don't think I'm doing to be doing dyno's on a campus board anytime soon lol
So psyched for the ice climbing videos!!
Also love the juji plug!
Magnus when are we getting an update on your book? Pre-ordered back in October, can’t wait to receive it!
It's fun to see you occasionally fall off a boulder for variety :D
Whole range of external rotation exercises to do besides the lie down or prone dumbbell external rotation, and I find a cable to be more consistent for the full range of motion of each exercise, plus assist bands can work anywhere and are an effective warmup if getting directly to the project.
Love the bouldering, but very excited to hear what you have coming up!
the weird shoulder rotation trains your rotator cuff, it is also very good to do it with rubber bands, standing or laying down,
The muscle you train (the one you don't know) is the rotator cuff (it keeps the overarm bone in the shoulder sucket).
hey magnus you should look into gating some colour correction gels( CTO) for you lights , or not running your lights to high just run them at 50%, with more diffusion, with some one with your skin tone you just reflect the light . So I would recommend getting some CTO to make the light more orange ( this is much more flattering on the skin tone) and some diffuser to help soften then light, This will help make your light look at lot nicer and not blow out and look over exposed. Keep up the great videos love from Australia
Amazing information! More of this!!
I had a dislocated shoulder last year from bouldering and can recommend these exercises to anyone.
Iove watching videos aboit antagonistic workouts! Starting to get older so I've become super aware that I am prone to injury.
One note - watching the Geek Climber/Hooper's Beta collab about the wrist roller. They were saying that unrolling the rope down is actually more important for the outside forearms and that you shouldn't just let it unwind. Just food for thought
Man... I envy your travels and your climbing around the world... but I envy the fact that you never got injured even more! 😆
Love the video. Some good exercises I’ll try. Sounds like the ice climbing video will be awesome!
Ice-Climbing Worldcup in Switzerland, so you are coming to Saas Fee?! Awesome!
If you are also planing for some bouldering/climbing sessions, there is a 8c+ Route at the Vertic-Climbing Gym in Saxon which is about 1h from Saas Fee or some nice Indoor-Bouldering in Baltschieder which is just 20min away!
However, enjoy the beautifull Landscape here at Valais/Wallis!
I'd love to see a collab of Magnus & Hooper's Beta!
Love your content!
Swag gains! Next, Magnus show you how to do Romanian deadlift in 3-piece Rungne suit.
To anyone who wants to do the wrist roll exercise, I find that its more effective to use a barbell rather than the dowel and rope. With a barbell you can just keep going and going and going, you don't need to let go to unwind the weighted rope
The dowel and rope is a harder exercise because it's constantly trying to spin in your hands. If you go with heavy weight it's hard just to keep the rope from unraveling.
@@d.nilsson628 interesting point, I didn't consider that. So would it be best to hold at the top/end of a weighted rope for a few seconds before you let it unravel?
@@petermozuraitis5219 I guess you could. You should also not just let go when you reach the top, lower it again slowly.
@@d.nilsson628 just added a top-level comment about this, as I didn't see your online reply. Just letting go and letting it unroll itself is skipping half of the exercise!
Nice video Magnus! Thankssss for all you did
Magnus inspired me to try wall climbing, and today I went for the first time and managed to climb a few 6b's and 6b+'s. Although my finger tips have some light bruises
Thats such an important video, thanks Magnus!
Sick Camera quality
I am so looking forward to the iceclimbing. Every time I watch Iceclimbing I am wondering why it isn't more famous.
Another Great video, thanks. Iceclimbing is so much fun, not at all like regular climbing but for shure you are in for a treat. Wish for more outside bouldering, maybe a trip to Fontaine bleau?
Ice climbing will be wonderful and more spicy, I did once under the trainer in Iceland, it was wonderful amazing experience.
I would advise to do the seated dumbell press on a flat bench i.e. without the back support. It requires a lot more shoulder stabilisation which means you're not as strong but you're training more of the muscles around the shoulder girdle.
🇳🇴🇳🇴🇳🇴You made a milly! Congrats mister Norway of climbing🇳🇴🇳🇴🇳🇴
Hey, Magnus, thank you for this video. Will incorporate these into my training. Just a small tweak to what you said regarding "building a lot of muscle, especially if you do a lot of reps": 3-5 @ heavy leads to strength, 6-10/12 @ medium leads to hypertrophy (muscular look), and 12+ @ medium/light leads to muscle endurance
every time it's lift the wheygt with barbells or "manubri" twisting it, will also icrease your wirsts/forearms and grip strength ;)
You should do another collaboration with Juji - where you guys go over powerlifting and olympic lifting for rock climbers.
I was hoping for a sequence you you working out the 9B. The idea of working through a problem seems interesting
the training part was def sth I needed to hear/see 😬
Magnus, please try to do the 1000 pull ups in one hour challenge! I think you could be one of the very few people who could actually nail this challenge!
Bit a tip with roll up weight - Do a roll down slow and in control instead drop weight on string
You’ll probably get more bang for your buck with those rear delt fly’s if you do face forward on an incline bench. Helps your torso stay in that killer angle
Damn magnus, you looking jacked in that thumbnail!!
Have you planned on doing a meet and greet in Switzerland? Would be awesome to see you
hi magnus big fan , for your rope on a roller exercise , we used to do that for hockey training for wrist shot strenght , we use 2 hockey pucks as weight but arms have to be straight , and from ground to roller then back down, my point is you should try lighter but straight arms and locked elbows, and lots of reps :) good day sir !
When wrist rolling I always roll up, slowly roll it down and then back up on the other side of the knot and back down again, that way you get a lot more time under tension and it burns a lot more