Make you own RC body shell | Vacuum Forming RC car body | Arrma Talion | DIY vacuum form |(
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ย. 2021
- The video many requested:
HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN RC BODY SHELL.
The complete process from making the mould to vacuum forming, everything you’ll need and everything you can get from the hardware store.
This video is a bit different than usual, please SUBSCRIBE to I DO RC to see my usual style of running vids.
Best vacuum form technique I've found, easy DIY vacuum form table and heating system.
vacuum form rc car body.
#vacuumform, #rcbody, #idorc,
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#arrma, #talion, #idorc, - บันเทิง
This was so new to me, I've been in the rc hobby for 15 years and I've never seen anyone make there own shell
Its people like you who make the world go around, what i mean by that is, people who see and do things that most of us don't
Well done 👏
Cheers for the comment mate, I appreciate it, it’s been a fun and handy process to learn for sure
@@IDORC
My pleasure
Very cool! Nice content and an inspiration!
Head cam can get a bot 'car sick' after a while though, probably just me :)
The head tracking and good quality HD helps…. But yep it takes some getting used to for sure. Cheers for watching
Top stuff mate, cheers for showing us how you make your body shells, great video 👍🍻💯
This is so inspirational. Thank you!
My pleasure mate, if you need any help making your own system just ask. Cheers for watching
That’s awesome. I hope to recreate something like this soon! Thanks!
Very welcome mate, it’s a fun and cost effective way to get body shells
Thats really cool, you nailed it!
Great video! Thanks for sharing!!!
Cheers mate, thanks for watching
Oh hell yeah that looks sick as cheers for the upload
Anytime bro
Asowme ✨🥰✨
Cheers mate, I’m always keen to share any knowledge I’ve got… saves you guys the pain lol
I just purchased a new rig and have been hesitant to drive it because I want to make a clean mold first before the original body gets dinged up. SO. HARD. TO. WAIT! Thanks for putting together this video.
My pleasure mate, happy building
Excellent tutorial thank you very much for sharing ya legend 🏆
Lol thank you very much mate, I remember searching through heaps of TH-cam videos on how to to this process with very little luck…. After a lot of money and time spent experimenting and a lot of the time failing I managed to get a good DIY system happening. Felt it kind of a duty to make it easier for others to do and learn from what I learnt so they can do it without my mistakes lol, thanks for watching again mate
@@IDORC I only other one I have seen is kinda same set up but he used a a frame and stuck it in a kitchen stove then pulled it out. Kinda dodgy. I like this set up better.
just awesome buddy!👍🏻
Thanks mate
That was really interesting! I saw your post on one of the Facebook groups, so I subscribed right away and only now managed to watch the video.
I got loads of stuff going on already, so taking a new project like this, I might wait a bit but it's definitely something I want.
I got an upcoming build where I need a truck body that is very long but also not very wide, so the prospect of maybe making my own would be nothing less than a game changer, ha ha, big words! And also the possibility of altering the classics, make them my own, oh yeah!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, very nice!
And I watched one of your other videos also, very nice footage!
Thanks mate, plenty going on for you, cheers for the Sub, heaps of vids to enjoy and more coming soon. I’ve got a few new RCs I can’t wait to give a run and make videos.
oh ! very interesting !
That's😮😮 cool!
That’s awesome !
Cheers mate… it opens a whole new world once you get it sorted
Respect 👍
Thanks mate
Man that was awesome it worked so well great video bro.👍🔥💯👊
Cheers Jay, you should give it a try
You should do a lot of felony bodyshell with different style and make money on it … 👌🏻
Could be fun
Nice video! thanks for the visual to our chat on FB yesterday or the day befor! Thought I was subbed already i am now tho lol. I'm the one that pointed out tgat you did vids on hdpe vs petg.
Cheers mate
really nice vid, thanks for making this vid and explaining it all, must've been a bit exhausting to explain all the steps as you're doing it, nicely done 👍
Cheers dude, it was a bit of a mouth full, I much prefer just doing running vids that talking lol
Tell me, do you think there is a machine especially for that to make universal RC car bodies, well all scales?
A person told me on TH-cam that 3D machines could make that type of body.
Thats awesome mate! 👍 Good work!
Cheers dude…. It’s easy when it’s shown clearly, give it a a shot
Nice demo, thank you, although it sounds quite exhausting :0)
Cheers mate, it was
Wow thank you buddy I'm definitely going to try this 😊 👍👍
My pleasure mate, it’s easy once you get the hang of it….
@@IDORC I will save a fortune mate
@@anthsrc lol, that’s the idea…. I never mind or worry as much when/if I stuff up a paint job or destroy a body on its first run anymore… just make another one lol
Just perfect mate 👌 I airbrush all my bodies and with this I can go mad 😆
@@anthsrc you’ll have a blast mate, enjoy, if you need any help with questions just ask.
I got a tip for you bro!
take your support box, take body and wrap with clingfilm. fill before mentioned box with expanding foam and place afore mentioned pre cling filmed body into it. TA DA!
Lol, so funny you should mention that mate…. I did try that once! However I don’t think I let the foam set long enough. Because plaster heats up so much when setting it melted my expanding foam! But yep a good idea I thought also. But as I said maybe I never let it set long enough….. to eager to get a mould lol cheers for watching. Sand has been the best way I’ve supported the casts now.
@@IDORC thanks for the tip! Sand in a plastic container would be reusable and simple.
@@SoloRenegade for sure
@@IDORC I have a 1/18 scale body for a fun out-of-production car that you cannot find anymore, and I want to make bodies for it. your video is super helpful and full of neat ideas.
thanks you gave me some ideas on some changes to improve my system, something i can share someone might find helpful, for making the molds i put the taped body in a plastic tub and use cheap playground sand to pack around it for support, the sand not only eliminates any chance of the tape blowing out because it wasn't supported enough, but also makes it possible to cast a mold from a body's that are broken or even have missing sections, as long as you can form the missing sections with tape or plastic then the sand will reinforce it enough to keep the plaster from plowing through, i have 2 identical plastic tubs so i can store the sand in between then transfer the sand back and forth to make molds......
Great idea the sand bucket, will definitely try that next time, cheers
Very nice, looks so easy
Cheers dude, it’s not too hard when you get the hang of it
Great video dude👍🏻😁✌️
Cheers Toby, give it a try
Thanks 👍
Hope it helps mate, happy forming
Just a suggestion for supporting the body before adding the mold material. Just use expanding foam to perfectly support it?
Great idea
I have a Chinese copy of the hpi baja 1/5. I love to have a Lancia Stratos body shell, but I wasn't able to find any body guide. Not even from road design RC cars.
Did you think it's possible to make a 3d print by pieces, glue together all transversal pieces, smooth the surface and then use it to do the first body shell? I can use the fridge trying to avoid getting the 3d print to deform cause heat and some kind of painting if that could help.
You should try to do lighting, real lighting with the empty space. The inside part where the led is glued, just add some paste where the lights have to be (you can glue a plastic marker and then use a lighter to get the plastic of and use the guide to draw) trim the outside carefully, drill the inside holes and use a wet textile net in same paste to emulate the inside of the light texture (probability more water than paste and more coats with a brush) and try to glue it inside. To be 100% accurate you should glue the net and then burn it, to have rivers instead of mountains, but I don't think it will be noticeable😗💨
Nice job out there!
Cheers mate, sounds good
nice job bro
Cheers mate, it’s fun and cheap
I am looking for the special machine that makes bodys
@@TeamMarlon just build one like mine, it’s not that difficult and pretty cheap
Awesome technical walk through, thank you. I was won during what to use to make a buck for the body. Did you get all the detail you wanted?
Yeah the detail is exact… plaster of Paris is pretty good with detail
Great work bro. I've been looking into building something similar to this. How does the PET hold up with your bashers? I heard it isn't as crash resistant as lexal or poly.
Hi mate, cheers, no definitely not as tough as Lexan, I usually drywall tape/shoe goo mine for strength but still will only last a few bashes, great if you are careful, the 1/7 Mojave is a killer tho lol
Love the video(s), sub'd right away.
Do you have anything published on the polycarbonate setup/process aside from the notes and comments in this video?
Hmmm the good old polycarb question lol. Doing polycarbonate is a bit harder, polycarb is hydroscopic meaning it pulls moisture in from the air so the plastic sheet needs to be dried free of moisture first….. this means heating the polycarb at a lower temp for about 30-45 mins (unless you live in a warm low humidity location, I unfortunately don’t). Once the plastic is dry and free from moisture the process is the same. If moisture is still contained within the polycarb then tiny air bubbles will form giving a bad spotty finish. So it’s certainly doable but takes a long time therefor using quite a bit of power/$cost. Unless you are doing smaller bodies and can use a conventional oven (a large pie oven is ideal if you can find one).
Ps. Cheers for the sub and watching dude
@@IDORC I live in Phoenix, Arizona so the dry heat is a constant.
I'm going to try making a custom shell for a Mojave that looks the the new batmobile. 😁 I might try both plastics once I get the box and heaters setup
@@noahthegildedone5917 sweet, PETG is easy to form and cheaper, so to test your vacuum form system and set-up it’s a good start point, once you got that sorted a dry/moisture free sheet of polycarbonate should be easy, it does need a higher heat for longer but once it’s dropped and soft forming is exactly the same. Good luck mate, it’s a lot of fun and opens a whole new world for RC fun
I wish i could make this. I need a a nero bigrock body. My original one is not in a terrible shape. Why i want to make them is because you can no longer buy them. They were discontinued 7 years ago:c. Ty traxxas
It’s pretty easy and worthwhile mate…. Can be fun designing stuff also
Would the mix up liquid heat resistant expanding foam be anygood as you could spray some release agent in the shell first so it doesn't stick would cost a little more but be less fragile use to do lots of carbon fibre and fiber glass repair during my many years pannel beating lol
There is a lot of heat involved, I’d be worried it wouldn’t keep shape, but nice idea
Great video but I have one question; what size of sheet of plastic do I need to make a 1/10 scale RC car body for the Traxxas slash or bodies about that size?
Hi mate, probably 700 x 450mm, it usually depends on height of the mould as well as width and length, just give yourself about an extra 10-20cm around the edge
Mate that is absolutely awesome. Wish I had a setup like that. That’s a brilliant home made setup man. I might get ya to make me one, how much bro? 😃💪🏼👊🏼👍🏼
Lol, it was a passionate project to work on and I wasn’t going to give up without a successful, easy forming machine.
@@IDORC and successful it is mate. 💪🏼👊🏼
@@WestOzRC yeah certainly is, I have two vacuum boxes of different sizes for 1/10 and 1/7 (Mojave size), the 1/8 Kraton/Talion (MT’s and triggers) and buggy bodies can all be formed on the 1/10 table/box
The only problem with PETG you can't paint it with polycarbonate paint because it makes it very brittle & will shatter on impact.
And if you use acrylic paint when the body flexes it will crack & peel off.
Polycarbonate/lexan is the best way to go.
Too true mate, you are spot on, I end up using a ‘rustoleum’ brand plastics spray and back it with a clear flexy coat to stop it from peeling. Polycarbonate is certainly the only way to go for strength and painting, just do hard to dry right before vacuum forming (hydroscopic, sucks moisture from the air). I am trying to get a hold of some PC-ABS (polycarbonate 60% acrylic 40%) it’s meant to be the best of both worlds and firm easy like ABS but the strength of PC, hard to get in Aus and is relatively new to the industry but could certainly be a game changer for those wanting to make RC bodies.
Very nice , can it also work for lexan using same procedure ?
It can, the polycarbonate needs to be warmed for a while first to dry it out, then put at a higher heat for longer
I’ve gotten myself a 3d printer and wanting to make a custom body for my Losi Super Baja Rey 2.0, I was wondering if a 3d printed version of the plaster replica would work with this technique. Would love to hear your opinion!!❤
Hi mate, the temperature of the plastic when vacuum formed (thermo mould) is quite extreme, the 3d print mould is likely to melt while trying to form the e vacuum mould…. That’s why plaster is great, it can withstand the heat. Also plastic formed over plaster allows for the new plastic form to seperate from the plaster mould easily… sometime I wipe olive oil on the plaster to help seperate from the plastic form…. I’m afraid the plastic body shell when vacuums (suctioned) over you 3d plastic mould will bond together due to heat and make them impossible to seperate. Cheers for asking though!
This is why people edit there video's,,,,it's exhausting trying live
Lol too true mate, although as you can see from my other vids…. My edited vids are exhausting, this one was a breeze compared to them lol also really wanted to show the whole process in as much real time as possible. Cheers for watching.
did you use a release agent or something to make the shell pop off cleanly? I'm looking to reproduce a very rare shell and don't want to muck it up.
*when creating the buck off the original shell (not the vegitable oil when making shell)
It releases quite easily but you could use a release agent if you are worried
great job!! do you actually sell them?
Hi mate, I was selling them for a while but usually was using PETG to make them cheaper for myself and not polycarbonate, So I didn’t sell the PETG due to being weaker.
Where did you source your stickers from? How much you think its going to cost to make something like this at home?
Not much dude, the stickers I actually took photos of the originals and printed them on waterproof vinyl sticker paper, they came up alright
Where do u buy the petg sheets? Great Video
Hi mate, we have a few local plastics companies that stock it
@@IDORC thx for the reply, how much Cost These for how many?
@@vamperspective3332 a 2400mm x1200mm sheet of 2mm PETG (not overly strong but easy to work with every time) is about $120 Aus dollar a sheet, can be cheaper if you buy in bulk but hard to transport, a few sheets can roll up easy for transport/postage. I can make 3 x Mojave shells 1/7 from one sheet or about 6 x 1/8 MT/truggy or buggy shell. Depends on your form box size.
@@IDORC thx a lot, i will search for smth like that
Could you vacum form around a 3d printed body shape (after smoothing of course)
Hi mate, It’s going to depend on the 3D print? How much heat temperature can it withstand etc! Haven’t tried myself!
@@IDORC Good points. Thanks
I did this with a couple of resin print molds I made for a 1:18 scale LaTrax Rally and LaTrax Teton. Works great. The molds did get kinda hot, so I'd say PLA will be likely to deform from the heat. I suppose if you added some kind of epoxy as a smoother to hide your print lines, that might help.
@@rcautoball hi dude, my moulds/prints are made from ‘plaster of Paris’ ….. they stay pretty good for depending on the shape, after a while the mould may need some work with more plaster….. when it’s on its way out I cast a new plaster Mould/print from a previous body. And we start again lol the plaster states pretty cold when casting…. Depending on the weather a warmer mould is better, so I often hear my plaster cast mould…. Especially when new… this prevents abnormal drying defaults on the final body shell.
@@IDORC Hey, brother! I was actually responding to the guy asking about 3D printed molds. I know yours are plaster as I've seen most all of your vacuum forming videos. Lol.
how clear is the PETG vs Polycarbonate?
Hi mate, PETG is really clear, probably clearer than polycarbonate, it also shows detail really well
@@IDORC thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Greetings from the US
How much did it cost to build this
I did it on the cheap, all materials from the hardware store, cost depends on what you already have laying around
What thickness PETG would you recommend for this?
Hi mate, 2mm is a pretty easy form for PETG, it won’t be overly strong for an RC basher though… but great for a shelf king
@@IDORC are rc bodies normally made from a different material? 2mm doesn't seem very thin to me in terms of rc bodies
@@ValRC1 the material starts as 2mm and stretches to a thinner material… but it’s still classed as 2mm. Polycarbonate is what most RC cars are made from but vacuum forming polycarbonate is a bit trickier. It sucks the moisture into it and needs to be totally dried out first under a long low temp to remove any moisture from the material, then heated to a very high temp (more than PETG) to vacuum form properly. If you live in a warm environment it’s easier… less moisture in the air
@@ValRC1 I also make the bodies out of HDPE (that’s what the unbreakable RC bodies are made from… usually a 3mm sheet, but it doesn’t come in a clear to paint, just solid colours
@@IDORC I see, thanks for the help! Would you say HDPE is more difficult to form?
What wheels are those
They are the Louise T Rocket wheels, didn’t last too long, see my Talion Lotus Elise video and you will see how long they lasted on the speed pinion, not the greatest.
But no decals🤷🏻♂️
I usually print my own decals or buy them
I'm trying to find a custom Porsche 917 body 170mm wheelbase 160mm track 290mm length mate
Oh mate I’d love to help you out, it’s a big job for a 1 of a kind 1 off sale! A lot of work to make the original mould.
@@IDORC how much we talking bro and i could buy a couple or something mate
Can't find nowhere that does em mate 😔
@@MRROOKIE725 I hear you bro
@@IDORC yeah man any advice were could be apreciaited mate
Start doing Losi 5B bodies and watch the money start rolling in. No one wants to pay 150 bucks for 1 including me LOL.
I hear you mate, that’s why I started making Mojave 1/7 bodies… but not many takers
i thought a 3d machine made these bodys
Normal vacuum forming (thermo forming), no 3d machine needed
But you think the machine three days ago, what exactly is the name of that 3D machine, you don't know.
@@TeamMarlon a CNC machine can build the mould/buck…. But those machines are really expensive…. My video is pretty easy to follow and shows how I make my buck from plaster of Paris and then vacuum form the plastic.
What is the name of the plastic that is used for the bodies? I imagine that it comes with only one size.
@@TeamMarlon you get big sheets of HDPE (unbreakable material) or Lexon Polycarbonate or you can use other materials, the sheets come in different sizes and you cut them to the desired shape of you frame for vacuum forming