Probably won’t work. This kind of thing is good for taking raw wood and lightening it. It’s not necessarily for altering the effects that stain or clear coats had on the wood. You bleach before finishing typically. That’s how you make raw red oak look like white oak. It will then take the finish as though it’s colored like white oak. If you already finished the wood you would have to sand down to raw wood, not just scuffing the surface. Making cheap red oak colored like white oak is one valid way to use this stuff. The other valid use for this kind of thing is to make soft maple as white as wood can possibly get (which still isn’t truly white). Then you finish with a white wax oil.
we got ours here 👉 www.homehardware.ca/en/946ml-wood-bleach/p/1610456?gclid=CjwKCAjwg5uZBhATEiwAhhRLHqAUlmW9wW8Zl30RWQLKtlGyN3J33uJlcx1lHlIzruzqmZhYiI4veBoCsG0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Need Help!! I had a new staircase installed. the contractor errantly installed red oak treads. I now need to match the red oak treads to my prefinished white oak flooring which is a walnut stain color. Is this possible?
That’s a very good question 🤔. Our rudimentary understanding is that neutralizing the solution prevents any chemical reactions with other products that might be used on the wood in the future 👍
I laid pale untreated oak floor. I stupidly varnished it with an oil wax and it turned a piss yellow. I sanded and then used this product to bleach the yellow out back to its original colour but it didn't work. In fact the product did absolutely nothing.
I'm in the same dilemma with the handrail. I love the natural oak color but was told to put a clear coat on it to protect the wood. I used a polyurethane coear coat and now it's an ugly yellow/red color. I'm pretty pissed about it and have been trying to figure out how to get it back to what it was.
@@CamberRockerCamber Unfortunately you cant reverse it. I decided to stain my floor a dark oak to cover up the yellow. Thats the only option, to go darker.
If you want to know what wood will look like with a clear coat on it just wet it with water or mineral spirits. Wood will absolutely NEVER look like it does when dry after you apply a finish. That’s not how wood works. Water based polyurethane won’t yellow but it still makes the wood look wet. There is no way around this. If you want it raw you have to leave it raw and unprotected.
I had my red oak wood staircase sanded and stained (no top finish/varnish yet…) by a professional but the color is horrible. I want it to match my new white oak floors. Can you use this on wood that has just been stained but no sealant… will it work?
What grey did you use on the stairs after (I guess) sealing the wood (last few seconds of the video) we have red oak stairs and want to make them a dark grey.
How much surface area does a container this size do? I can't find a larger container for this. Looking to do this exact thing but over 1000 sqft of 2" red oad hardwood floors.
According to the label, you’ll get roughly 100 sq. ft. per box with this product 👍. You could looking into getting the two components separately (sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide), might be easier to get them in large quantities that way instead of getting 10 kits. You’ll want to do some research before going this route though (we’re not chemists 👨🔬 😉) 👍
Indeed. As a woodworker bleaching techniques tend to have to main applications. Making cheap red oak look more like white oak and making soft maple ver light / white (especially when finished with a white wax oil). But you have to do this on raw wood. Everyone in the comments wants thier 90s cabinets to look like modern grayish white oak. Not gonna happen unless you sand back to raw wood. And your cabinet veneers can’t handle that anyway.
That’s frustrating. You should be able to get the individual components separately relatively easily though (the kit is nothing special, just two bottles: sodium hydroxide “Solution A” and hydrogen peroxide “Solution B)
I believe Zinsser brand has a good bleaching solution. I used on cherry side table, looked great after. Kept natural with a waterbase clear coat so as not to yellow over time. Cherry does darken naturally with age, but after a year I can't tell. Just fyi. 😊
That’s the idea! We were shocked how much it looked like ‘white oak’ when we were finished. You can do multiple rounds to lighten the wood even more (if thats what you’re after) 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements Thanks for replying! I actually went ahead and bleached some white oak, used 'natural' stain, and it came out pretty close to my flooring which is a white oak color. Thanks for the video!
Fair question. Short answer would be that we can achieve the same results without tape (not that we’re against it, at all). Hopefully you’re not being thrown off by the “glow” off the corner of the stairs in this video. The edges look really bright with our camera lights and almost gives the impression of paint bleed (we assure you it’s not 😎).
To paint wood & to bleach are two very different things. Achieving very different results in both the look & feel not to mention longevity. One is painted & there’s a layer of color usually fully covering the wood grains & all it’s beauty completely, as where bleaching the wood is simply changing the color of wood tones all while still allowing the wood to be itself in a new hue! 😊
Is it raw wood? This really isn’t meant to bleach out stain or finish it’s meant to bleach the wood fibers before you put finish on it. Also, does 1/8 veneer mean it’s 1/8” of solid oak or is it 1/8” oak plywood which only has a tiny layer of oak on the outside.
Is it fair to say this isn’t redoing your floors? This is supplemental to an existing stained red oak floor? Ours really has a clear coat to keep it natural. Just curious if this requires as heavy sanding
Totally fair (especially since we’ve ‘redone’ many many floors 😂 ). There IS however a ton of sanding involved (even without having a clear coat already on top), so don’t expect this method to be a quick and easy fix. You’ll have to sand your clear coat off completely before you even begin this process 👍
In the last 15 seconds of the video it looks like he stained the stairs a light gray. I’m wondering what product you used? My flooring looks very similar and I am going to bleach red oak stairs and use a similar stain to achieve pretty much the exact same look that you did. So just wondering what’s the stain used?
Believe it or not, no stain was used whatsoever. What you see is just the look of the red oak after two applications of the bleach. No stain was used, only a top coat of Polyurethane. Most poly sealers will tint the wood in a different way, so we experimented with different brands/products to see which gave us look most similar to the existing floors, and we landed on the Clear Finish Varathane in the Satin Finish.
I think the grey color at the end is just the filter applied by the title slide overlayed on the video. It just desaturated all of the video color etc. So the wood is not that color
There are species of red oak that look like white oak and visa versa. The difference between the 2 woods isn't the color. Color-wise, the stairs came out looking almost like maple. Maple is also very nice.
@@silverbackag9790can’t remember what all was being discussed but the tannins remain in the red oak and sometime in the future the colour will come back whatever tone it was you were trying to eliminate with bleach. That’s one issue anyway.
While this is true, all you have to do is go to any big box store and look at thier red oak. It’s almost always quite red and rarely if ever looks like what people call white oak. Then go to hardwood dealer and look at white oak. It’s a stereotype for a reason. The red oak that gets sold is reddish. The white oak isn’t. So while you can find non reddish red oak or reddish white oak you typically don’t. This is also why bleaching red oak works so well.
Hard to say for sure without knowing more, but this product specifically mentions that it “lightens all wood types, including walnut, mahogany, and teak, as well as wood that has darkened from age.” Our best advice would be to test it out on an inconspicuous section of the wood you’ve got and see how it goes 👍
Wow, you did an amazing job! Getting that Bin shellac on perfectly like that is epic! My question is I am refinishing a table and painting a portion and want to bleach the top and bottom of small table for a natural wood look. I believe it's red oak. I sanded down the finish with 80 sander yesterday then wipe it down with water and it was a light color. Woke up this morning to further work on it and it was red again! I'm a newbie. Is this normal? Do I need to sand more? Also, I bought a wood bleaching kit by Zinsser? Is that ok? Thank you!
It’s totally normal 👍. It will always look it’s lightest after a sanding, and it’s darkest when wet. The short answer is that you didn’t do anything to change the appearance of the wood permanently by sanding it or adding water. If you want to make the red oak permanently lighter, you’ll have to apply a bleach solution (like the one from our video, or another kind) and follow the instructions 👍
Good question! It does permanently change the appearance of the wood, but it doesn’t do any structural damage (ie. weaken the wood) or anything of that nature 👍
We used our Mirka Deos, but you can certainly do it by hand. The product you use will specify which grit to use and when (this asked for 180 grit before applying the bleaching agent, then the sealer required a pass of 220-240 grit) 👍
@@lauraadams478 i wouldn’t be too concerned with finding this exact product. Wood bleach kits tend to be the same thing (sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide) in some variation. See if someone around you sells a different kit, or try to locate the two components separately. You might have better luck that way 👍
That came out really good!! I am a custom home builder in the Dallas, Texas area. I have some rift cut white oak cabinets that I need to even out and this looks like it will do the trick. Your welcome to come hang out and make a video.
Waterbase poly and such like General Finish High peroformance Flat is yellowing, as its pulling the tannins up, so bleaching might do the trick. I seen another YT video using regular bleach. I wonder if there is any difference. They also did not neutralize it with vinegar...hmmmm?? I am wanting to keep the natural whiteOak wood as my finished result.
@@philindeblanc we had custom walnut cabinets made from raw walnut cut from our trees. We are finishing these ourselves and someone said we need to apply a whitewash or antiquing and then a water based poly to keep them from darkening. Any suggestions, as the semi transparent white stain looked terrible on the scrap of walnut.
@@debbiestevens4913 You are lucky to have such wood sources. The darker the wood the harder it is to use a white wash. The darker the wood the less you have to worry about it from darkening. Having said that, you could use a tint of the color range in the wood, and use no more than 2 to 3 drops of a concentrated color in about a quart batch. This will keep it from the tanins bleeding through and from sun exposure. Use a good waterbase sealer. I have tried a few, and the one I chose was Renner, but Centurion was also good. the ones like Minwax, or off the shelf darkened the most.
Where can I get the Circa Wood Bleach. I searched the web but am not able to find it. Home Depot and Lowes does not carry it. Where did you find it? Thank you in advance for your response.
It should! You might have to sand down the clear coat first (which admittedly would be a lot of work), but our advice would be to find an inconspicuous area and test it out 👍
Knew immediately that these guys were from Canada, as they DO NOT sell this product anywhere in the USA. (One of a million things wrong with the land of the “free”. For all you fellow Americans, if you mix 4 oz 100% lye with 24 oz water (part 1) and 27% Hydrogen Peroxide (part 2) (can be found at pool stores or HD sold as Pequa cess-Flo) and apply in 2 steps then you will achieve same results. Good Luck!!
I would to do the same from red oak to white oak for my commercial counter top, it still unfinished red oak. Do I still do the same with what you do in the video?
Hi! have you tried liquid sandpaper instead of manually sanding? Want to bleach my window trims and sanding it manually looks too hard. Second question, if I do need to really manually sand, do I just buff or it needs to be done hard?
You’re supposed to bleach raw wood. Everyone wants to change the color of their already finished stuff. That’s likely not gonna happen. You would have to sand the wood back to raw. Liquid sandpaper isn’t gonna do that. Unfortunately if you don’t like your trim the options are paint it white or install new trim that is stained the color you want. If your trim is currently stained lighter than you want you could sand it down and go darker. But you’re probably not gonna have success going lighter. It’s honestly way less work to just rip it out and put in new trim.
Hardwood floor refinisher here The pros don't do this. We use Loba easyfinish with loba whitener. Usually 2 to 3 coats. You'll neutralize the red/pink undertones and have a beautiful thick coat of water based poly that won't change color overtime.
Loba does not bleach wood. Loba whitener has pigment in it so you get more of a pickling or whitewash look. It's essentially highly pigmented paint. It is not the same effect as bleaching.
@@nfinance2 it will eliminate the red and have the best protection, and will not oxidize over time turning yellow. I hope my competition doesn't catch on so I can keep making more money fixing other people's mistakes.
@@cobiakiller7575 You aren't understanding and there was no mistake here other than the need to neutralize. The point of this video wasn't to show the best protection for wood. It was to show how to bleach the wood. Not everyone wants a cloudy white-washed look which is what Loba will give you. Nobody is saying Loba isn't a good product but for what he wanted, Loba would not be the correct product to achieve the bleach look. It is great as a protector though. Check your ego at the door and humble yourself. You might just learn something. #mastercarpentryfor30years
When you painted the stringer you didn't protect the stair treat from getting some paint on them?
I love it!! I want to do the same thing to my honey colored oak kitchen cabinets.
Did it work? Love that idea and don’t know if I can tackle it myself 😅 but would love to!!!
wondering the same question! Did it work? Did you try?
And the cabinet faces!
Probably won’t work. This kind of thing is good for taking raw wood and lightening it. It’s not necessarily for altering the effects that stain or clear coats had on the wood. You bleach before finishing typically. That’s how you make raw red oak look like white oak. It will then take the finish as though it’s colored like white oak. If you already finished the wood you would have to sand down to raw wood, not just scuffing the surface.
Making cheap red oak colored like white oak is one valid way to use this stuff. The other valid use for this kind of thing is to make soft maple as white as wood can possibly get (which still isn’t truly white). Then you finish with a white wax oil.
Short and sweet, with normal audio Thank you!
🤔 we have a feeling we know exactly which video you’re referencing 😂 . Appreciate the kind words!
Love this! How many coats of the bleaching product did you use for your project?
What type of top coat do you use to try to preserve the white oak look?
I cannot find this bleach product in stock anywhere. Please advise on where to purchase. Thanks!
we got ours here 👉 www.homehardware.ca/en/946ml-wood-bleach/p/1610456?gclid=CjwKCAjwg5uZBhATEiwAhhRLHqAUlmW9wW8Zl30RWQLKtlGyN3J33uJlcx1lHlIzruzqmZhYiI4veBoCsG0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Any similar product in the us, I can't find it anywhere.
Can this process be done on Kitchen Cabinets?
Not sure, it would be really tricky
Can I do this with Chinese rosewood or will it go back to red when exposed to light?
Woodglut instructions is nice for that.
Awesome 👍
Did you use 180 sandpaper the whole time?
Need Help!! I had a new staircase installed. the contractor errantly installed red oak treads. I now need to match the red oak treads to my prefinished white oak flooring which is a walnut stain color. Is this possible?
Thanks exactly what we’re doing in this video👍
Does anyone know if you can still buy the circa 1850 bleach product? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
If not, you could look into acquiring both components separately (sodium hydroxide, also called caustic soda or lye and hydrogen peroxide) 👍
What happens if you do not go back and neutralize the wood?
That’s a very good question 🤔. Our rudimentary understanding is that neutralizing the solution prevents any chemical reactions with other products that might be used on the wood in the future 👍
would this work on alder, or does it only work on red oak? looks great!
Where can you buy the circa 1850, i can’t find it anywhere
I laid pale untreated oak floor. I stupidly varnished it with an oil wax and it turned a piss yellow. I sanded and then used this product to bleach the yellow out back to its original colour but it didn't work. In fact the product did absolutely nothing.
I'm in the same dilemma with the handrail. I love the natural oak color but was told to put a clear coat on it to protect the wood. I used a polyurethane coear coat and now it's an ugly yellow/red color. I'm pretty pissed about it and have been trying to figure out how to get it back to what it was.
@@CamberRockerCamber Unfortunately you cant reverse it. I decided to stain my floor a dark oak to cover up the yellow. Thats the only option, to go darker.
Purple cancels out yellow which is why you would have needed to stain/varnish it with a purple undertone. Same for hair dying.
If you want to know what wood will look like with a clear coat on it just wet it with water or mineral spirits. Wood will absolutely NEVER look like it does when dry after you apply a finish. That’s not how wood works. Water based polyurethane won’t yellow but it still makes the wood look wet. There is no way around this. If you want it raw you have to leave it raw and unprotected.
@@CamberRockerCamberI would probably choose a water based top coat like from Bonide. Water based doesn't yellow. Polyurethane does.
I had my red oak wood staircase sanded and stained (no top finish/varnish yet…) by a professional but the color is horrible. I want it to match my new white oak floors. Can you use this on wood that has just been stained but no sealant… will it work?
Id like to know this as well. Have you been able to match your red with the new white oak?
You have to sand off the Stan that was applied and then do this
Could you do this process and then whitewash them after to achieve a whitewash look?!?
What grey did you use on the stairs after (I guess) sealing the wood (last few seconds of the video) we have red oak stairs and want to make them a dark grey.
How much surface area does a container this size do? I can't find a larger container for this. Looking to do this exact thing but over 1000 sqft of 2" red oad hardwood floors.
According to the label, you’ll get roughly 100 sq. ft. per box with this product 👍. You could looking into getting the two components separately (sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide), might be easier to get them in large quantities that way instead of getting 10 kits. You’ll want to do some research before going this route though (we’re not chemists 👨🔬 😉) 👍
I assume this was raw wood and not previously coated with a topcoat correct?
Correct👍
Indeed. As a woodworker bleaching techniques tend to have to main applications. Making cheap red oak look more like white oak and making soft maple ver light / white (especially when finished with a white wax oil). But you have to do this on raw wood.
Everyone in the comments wants thier 90s cabinets to look like modern grayish white oak. Not gonna happen unless you sand back to raw wood. And your cabinet veneers can’t handle that anyway.
How bad was the smell of vinegar?
Unfortunately the wood bleach you used seems to be unavailable in the US. Canada, only, and they won't ship it across the border.
That’s frustrating. You should be able to get the individual components separately relatively easily though (the kit is nothing special, just two bottles: sodium hydroxide “Solution A” and hydrogen peroxide “Solution B)
I believe Zinsser brand has a good bleaching solution. I used on cherry side table, looked great after. Kept natural with a waterbase clear coat so as not to yellow over time. Cherry does darken naturally with age, but after a year I can't tell. Just fyi. 😊
Wow! I was getting ready to paint pickled oak cabinets. Would i get the white oak look with this technique?
That’s the idea! We were shocked how much it looked like ‘white oak’ when we were finished. You can do multiple rounds to lighten the wood even more (if thats what you’re after) 👍
Are the floors Waddington Oak LVP by chance? I'm trying to match get some red oak trim to match my newly installed floors and found this video.
I do not believe they are… but can’t say for sure. They were supplied by our stair installer 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements Thanks for replying! I actually went ahead and bleached some white oak, used 'natural' stain, and it came out pretty close to my flooring which is a white oak color. Thanks for the video!
Was there a sealant or finish on the stairs? obv the 80 sand took whatever off - I assume?
The stairs were raw (unfinished Red Oak) when installed. We sealed them after we bleached them, but before that there was no sealant etc. 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements thanks! have you done this to veneer?
@@BM-qm8be We have not. In general sanding + veneer = trouble… but if you’re careful its worth a shot 👍
Nice job, but why did you spend that much time bleaching and NOT tape off while painting white???
Fair question. Short answer would be that we can achieve the same results without tape (not that we’re against it, at all). Hopefully you’re not being thrown off by the “glow” off the corner of the stairs in this video. The edges look really bright with our camera lights and almost gives the impression of paint bleed (we assure you it’s not 😎).
To paint wood & to bleach are two very different things. Achieving very different results in both the look & feel not to mention longevity. One is painted & there’s a layer of color usually fully covering the wood grains & all it’s beauty completely, as where bleaching the wood is simply changing the color of wood tones all while still allowing the wood to be itself in a new hue! 😊
Was there any polyurethane on the stairs to begin with?
Can I bleach my red oak veneer interior door? It is 1/8" thickness veneer with a solid particle core.
Is it raw wood? This really isn’t meant to bleach out stain or finish it’s meant to bleach the wood fibers before you put finish on it. Also, does 1/8 veneer mean it’s 1/8” of solid oak or is it 1/8” oak plywood which only has a tiny layer of oak on the outside.
Can you do this on floors if they've already been poly'd?
You’d have to sand them back down to bare wood first (in other words, remove all the polyurethane) 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements looks great and like a lot of work. How have they held up?
Can i use it on laminate oak flooring
Applying wood bleach volume so simple?
Is it fair to say this isn’t redoing your floors? This is supplemental to an existing stained red oak floor? Ours really has a clear coat to keep it natural. Just curious if this requires as heavy sanding
Totally fair (especially since we’ve ‘redone’ many many floors 😂 ). There IS however a ton of sanding involved (even without having a clear coat already on top), so don’t expect this method to be a quick and easy fix. You’ll have to sand your clear coat off completely before you even begin this process 👍
In the last 15 seconds of the video it looks like he stained the stairs a light gray. I’m wondering what product you used? My flooring looks very similar and I am going to bleach red oak stairs and use a similar stain to achieve pretty much the exact same look that you did. So just wondering what’s the stain used?
Believe it or not, no stain was used whatsoever. What you see is just the look of the red oak after two applications of the bleach. No stain was used, only a top coat of Polyurethane. Most poly sealers will tint the wood in a different way, so we experimented with different brands/products to see which gave us look most similar to the existing floors, and we landed on the Clear Finish Varathane in the Satin Finish.
I think the grey color at the end is just the filter applied by the title slide overlayed on the video. It just desaturated all of the video color etc. So the wood is not that color
There are species of red oak that look like white oak and visa versa. The difference between the 2 woods isn't the color. Color-wise, the stairs came out looking almost like maple. Maple is also very nice.
Obviously you haven’t dealt with the significant color finishing issues of regular American red oak.
@@fogsmart what did he say that was inaccurate?
@@silverbackag9790can’t remember what all was being discussed but the tannins remain in the red oak and sometime in the future the colour will come back whatever tone it was you were trying to eliminate with bleach. That’s one issue anyway.
While this is true, all you have to do is go to any big box store and look at thier red oak. It’s almost always quite red and rarely if ever looks like what people call white oak. Then go to hardwood dealer and look at white oak. It’s a stereotype for a reason. The red oak that gets sold is reddish. The white oak isn’t.
So while you can find non reddish red oak or reddish white oak you typically don’t. This is also why bleaching red oak works so well.
I read so many places that bleaching wood floors can actually damage the wood?
Hello ! How are you? It’s possible to do it if the wood is darker? Possible send photo?
Hard to say for sure without knowing more, but this product specifically mentions that it “lightens all wood types, including walnut, mahogany, and teak, as well as wood that has darkened from age.” Our best advice would be to test it out on an inconspicuous section of the wood you’ve got and see how it goes 👍
Wow, you did an amazing job! Getting that Bin shellac on perfectly like that is epic! My question is I am refinishing a table and painting a portion and want to bleach the top and bottom of small table for a natural wood look. I believe it's red oak. I sanded down the finish with 80 sander yesterday then wipe it down with water and it was a light color. Woke up this morning to further work on it and it was red again! I'm a newbie. Is this normal? Do I need to sand more? Also, I bought a wood bleaching kit by Zinsser? Is that ok? Thank you!
It’s totally normal 👍. It will always look it’s lightest after a sanding, and it’s darkest when wet. The short answer is that you didn’t do anything to change the appearance of the wood permanently by sanding it or adding water. If you want to make the red oak permanently lighter, you’ll have to apply a bleach solution (like the one from our video, or another kind) and follow the instructions 👍
The link for Circa 1850 Bleach doesn't work. I can't find this product in USA.
Canada product
Does this damage the wood in the long term?
Good question! It does permanently change the appearance of the wood, but it doesn’t do any structural damage (ie. weaken the wood) or anything of that nature 👍
what sander did you use please?
We used our Mirka Deos, but you can certainly do it by hand. The product you use will specify which grit to use and when (this asked for 180 grit before applying the bleaching agent, then the sealer required a pass of 220-240 grit) 👍
can we bleach without sanding?
No because the wood has a finish in it protecting it. You need to sand it down to raw wood.
This looks amazing!! Do you think it would work on kitchen cabinets?
It should! Just make sure you sand thoroughly before hand to remove any top coat/sealer 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements right! I never see this for cabinets! We started on this , this evening. Thank you for sharing this tip!
@@aliveinchrist2379 would love to know how your cabinets turned out??!!
@@aliveinchrist2379 how did it go, were u happy with the results?
Have you ever used this product on mahogany? I'm going to finsh a new mahogany door and want to neutralize the red tones. TIA
We haven’t- but it’s specifically mentioned on the label, so you should be good to go 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements thanks so much for responding so quickly! Best wishes
Now if I can just find the product! Doesn't seem to be readily available down here in the south. 😕
@@lauraadams478 i wouldn’t be too concerned with finding this exact product. Wood bleach kits tend to be the same thing (sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide) in some variation. See if someone around you sells a different kit, or try to locate the two components separately. You might have better luck that way 👍
That came out really good!! I am a custom home builder in the Dallas, Texas area. I have some rift cut white oak cabinets that I need to even out and this looks like it will do the trick. Your welcome to come hang out and make a video.
😂 thanks for the invite! Let us know how it goes 👍
Waterbase poly and such like General Finish High peroformance Flat is yellowing, as its pulling the tannins up, so bleaching might do the trick. I seen another YT video using regular bleach. I wonder if there is any difference. They also did not neutralize it with vinegar...hmmmm?? I am wanting to keep the natural whiteOak wood as my finished result.
@@philindeblanc we had custom walnut cabinets made from raw walnut cut from our trees. We are finishing these ourselves and someone said we need to apply a whitewash or antiquing and then a water based poly to keep them from darkening. Any suggestions, as the semi transparent white stain looked terrible on the scrap of walnut.
@@debbiestevens4913 You are lucky to have such wood sources. The darker the wood the harder it is to use a white wash. The darker the wood the less you have to worry about it from darkening. Having said that, you could use a tint of the color range in the wood, and use no more than 2 to 3 drops of a concentrated color in about a quart batch. This will keep it from the tanins bleeding through and from sun exposure. Use a good waterbase sealer. I have tried a few, and the one I chose was Renner, but Centurion was also good. the ones like Minwax, or off the shelf darkened the most.
Where can I get the Circa Wood Bleach. I searched the web but am not able to find it. Home Depot and Lowes does not carry it. Where did you find it? Thank you in advance for your response.
Please tell me chemical name??
thanks so much for this guys!
You’re so welcome!
Love it! Amazing job!
Can this work on honey oak kitchen cabinets? I want to update my 80's kitchen but don't want to paint them and hide the wood grain.
It should! You might have to sand down the clear coat first (which admittedly would be a lot of work), but our advice would be to find an inconspicuous area and test it out 👍
Knew immediately that these guys were from Canada, as they DO NOT sell this product anywhere in the USA. (One of a million things wrong with the land of the “free”. For all you fellow Americans, if you mix 4 oz 100% lye with 24 oz water (part 1) and 27% Hydrogen Peroxide (part 2) (can be found at pool stores or HD sold as Pequa cess-Flo) and apply in 2 steps then you will achieve same results. Good Luck!!
You bleached and neutralized- did you seal?
Did you watch the video?
I would to do the same from red oak to white oak for my commercial counter top, it still unfinished red oak. Do I still do the same with what you do in the video?
Yep, the process should be the same- but we always recommend you follow the exact instructions on the products you purchase 👍
Love it!!
Hi! have you tried liquid sandpaper instead of manually sanding? Want to bleach my window trims and sanding it manually looks too hard. Second question, if I do need to really manually sand, do I just buff or it needs to be done hard?
what is your window wood painted or clear-coated?
You’re supposed to bleach raw wood. Everyone wants to change the color of their already finished stuff. That’s likely not gonna happen. You would have to sand the wood back to raw. Liquid sandpaper isn’t gonna do that.
Unfortunately if you don’t like your trim the options are paint it white or install new trim that is stained the color you want. If your trim is currently stained lighter than you want you could sand it down and go darker. But you’re probably not gonna have success going lighter. It’s honestly way less work to just rip it out and put in new trim.
I love the look
Which bleach did you use?
Circa 1850 Wood Bleach 👉 www.amazon.ca/CIRCA-1850-946mL-Wood-Bleach/dp/B08BF5CK1Q
Just lovely 😊
☺️ thanks!!
Great job 👌🏻 Thanks for sharing ✨
Happy to help 👍
The color of the oak has nothing to do with the name. There is red white oak and white red oak as well.
That’s great info, thanks 👍
I have done very similar with woodglut designs.
That’s awesome 👍
painters tape
How to make white oak look like red oak. Because red oak is whiter than white oak. It is not about the color of the wood, but the color of the tree.
I really like the woodglut plans.
Hardwood floor refinisher here
The pros don't do this. We use Loba easyfinish with loba whitener. Usually 2 to 3 coats. You'll neutralize the red/pink undertones and have a beautiful thick coat of water based poly that won't change color overtime.
Loba does not bleach wood. Loba whitener has pigment in it so you get more of a pickling or whitewash look. It's essentially highly pigmented paint. It is not the same effect as bleaching.
@@nfinance2 it will eliminate the red and have the best protection, and will not oxidize over time turning yellow. I hope my competition doesn't catch on so I can keep making more money fixing other people's mistakes.
@@cobiakiller7575 You aren't understanding and there was no mistake here other than the need to neutralize. The point of this video wasn't to show the best protection for wood. It was to show how to bleach the wood. Not everyone wants a cloudy white-washed look which is what Loba will give you. Nobody is saying Loba isn't a good product but for what he wanted, Loba would not be the correct product to achieve the bleach look. It is great as a protector though. Check your ego at the door and humble yourself. You might just learn something. #mastercarpentryfor30years
1:25 yikes
Oh it got painted...without tape
This stuff may be bad for your lungs....hopw you wore respiratory gear.
Woodprix is a good solution for every woodworker.
Good to know 👍
Why would you want to do that . Red oak is rich and white oak looks like cheap pine .
Is this stuff discontinued?? I can't find it anywhere.
It is hard to find we agree. Contact your local paint store
Canada only, and doesn't ship overseas. There's a TH-camr that uses Circa stripper, can only get in Canada. Too bad.