I could not agree with you more. Jake is the best of the very best! I love his content and have even copied his bulb across the meter terminals trick. Cheaper than a LoadPro!
That was unreal! You are relentless in your diagnosis. I would have loved to see what a dealership tech would have replaced on that truck! You do such detailed work!
THATS REALLY TOUGH TO DO ESPECIALLY IN THAT CASE.YOU WANT TO PULL THE TRIGGER BUT SOMETHING IN YOUR HEAD TELLS YOU TO HOLD OFF.BEEN THERE A FEW TIMES AND JUST LIKE THIS CASE IT PAID OFF FROM REPLACING A GOOD PART.
My 2000 golf TDI would randomly set the alarm off if I lock the doors at night and it rains or was muggy out. It was a rare occasion one year when it was dry but the very next year it was so annoying, I stopped locking my doors, eventually the back hatch wouldn't open anymore. It would show that the latch handle circuit was shorted to ground. It was rotted out and couldn't be replaced due to the age of the car. I just recently had a battery drain issue where this Honda pilot would drain the battery over night randomly. I found out that the tailgate switch was intermittently closing the circuit causing the vehicle to illuminating the lighting system and waking everything up for a few minutes. After a few times of this happening it would drain out the battery. It took me a few minutes to diagnose the issue but learning your channel, allowed me to diagnose the problem quicker. Thanks again.
That was a crazy case study! I can't imagine how that dummy plug got corroded in the middle of the dash? Great job, as always. Thanks for sharing! I got to get that TopDon charger. The Ah feature can be a big help.
@@rodvan-zeller6360 Galvanic corrosion is between dissimilar metals and an electrolyte has be present. This is more likely electrolytic corrosion caused by the potential difference between adjacent pins. This still requires some kind of electrolyte and its not clear how the connector could have become wet, possibly a drinks spill from the top of the dashboard which has been cleaned externally?
There are lots of stories around the diag community about odd vehicle issues, phantom drains, “car is possessed” that link back to electrical connectors and modules underneath the cup holders. Colas are reputed to be especially bad (the acid, I guess?). I’m beginning to think that a standard question should be “has there been a Big Gulp spillage in the vehicle?”
Customers often don't understand, to no fault of their own, that intermittent problems can be very difficult to diagnose. Not everything is a 1 hour diagnostic, nor duplicatable every time. I'm a Toyota tech and having the factory diagrams is very helpfult. When we work on other brands, we only have AllData (SomeData) to go by.
if plan a, changing the bcm, does not fix it what is plan b? eliminate plan b before changing a $800+ bcm. makes you wonder why more planes are not hitting the ground every thing is run by wire. I love this kind of trouble shooting. Keep up the good work.
_"if plan a, changing the bcm, does not fix it what is plan b?"_ If it was a dealer they'd probably change half a dozen other modules at customers expense and when that doesn't work they'd say it needs a a whole new wiring loom.
Gotta admit, I would have most likely put a BCM in after see the lack of input to request light and brake lights on. But like you said, the lights that were coming on didn’t really add up to a bad input with the lack of 3rd brake light and other running lights. Damn fine job on figuring this one out man. I know some people hate doing stuff like this but I personally enjoy this type of challenge. (Not the intermittent part so much lol) Once you figure out a difficult problem such as this, it’s always one of the most rewarding parts of the job in my opinion. Thanks for sharing, nice to learn some new strategies for those odd ball problems.
Wow, brilliant diagnostics, I hate to think what a dealership would have done in that situation, the owner would have probably had a bill for thousands without a fix. 👍
Great video and diagnosis. I’m glad you listened to your gut and didn’t replace the BCM. You definitely get some interesting vehicles. I guess we won’t tell Megan what happened to her purple toothbrush. 🤣🤣
At 14:20 it was clear: BOO BOO BOO - you got a ghost problem 🙂 Now, seriously, your clear minded approach and determination (not luck - informed testing!) made for a fantastic diagnostic! Well done, Jake!! You are absolutely right - you need diagrams you can trust, with a fault as weird as this one! In the end, it was indeed a ghost - the ghost of the trailer break control switch, hiding inside the dash, to drive anyone crazy enough to replace the BCM. I really enjoyed this video and I'm very pleased you solved the problem, no parts required - only time and brainpower 🙂
Fantastic diagnostics, you said it was just luck that made you unplug that connector from the BCM, I reckon it was the same inquisitive mind that lead you into diagnostics and makes you a great diagnostitian
Not many techs could have solved this one. Even fewer could have solved this without throwing an unnecessary BCM at it. I shudder to think what the experience would have been at a standard dealership. Absolutely excellent work. Love this channel.
Excellent Jake! Looks like that BCM was definitely a suspect. Taking it to the next level paid off for sure! This could have cost the customer a small fortune if the vehicle was taken to another shop. Thank you for another great case study!
You and that battery maintainer are my heroes. You're pretty amazing. I don't even want to think about how fun all that research must have been. Thank you for the video.
Its amazing how one's luck quotient increases the more persistent and competent you are. As far as the headlight coming on, what likely is the wiring harness is likely for the trailer brake switch, which obviously would turn on the trailer brake lights when activated and may possibly be back feeding through the rear taillights which are illuminated when the headlights are turned on.
Fun fact from my experience with Ford trucks and Vans-Can't separate the modules from the actuator or it sets a DTC. Been there more than once and have the t shirt. This applies to many vehicles after about 2011 but it's in the configuration/replacement service info on the Ford site if it applies. And Valley Forge makes that diagram for ALLDATA and Mitchell and they are often wrong in my experience. Especially GM stuff. Great thing finally for ALLDATA-They have copied Ford's OE along with their great system of hyperlinks for finding connector locations and pin outs. Great find!
Wonder if that truck had been detailed with a steam wand? Some serious crusties there. Modern vehicles are sooo sensitive to moisture! Brilliant work as usual Jake. 🎯
Awesome diagnostics with this one. But what I can't figure out is how that corrosion could develop in such an area that doesn't get wet. I could see that happening to the BCM due to its location but not the TBC connector, very odd place to happen.
If you wanted to recreate the problem with a DC voltage corrosion crosstalk you could you a current limited DC power supply to inject a signal into the BCM, perhaps through a 100 Ohm resistor to see if the problem occurs. After removing the corrosion from the connector you should wrap in electrical tape because it looks like to get that kind of corrosion on the inside of the dash there has to be either water intrusion path (a drip path) or the truck is a flood vehicle?
Very interesting,I don't like that Ford brake switch installed on the master cilinders or near of flamable fluids..(water from the sunroof?or coffee get to the trailer connector?..
Nicely done! I never believed for a second that the BCM was at fault. My first thought was that cargo switch, but I'm happily wrong. You're getting a nose for this stuff, just like Eric O!
I had an F250 do this. But it would turn on all 4 as if the hazard switch was on. The bcm controls all of it. It was a difficult diag because you couldn't get the ignition on to look at live data. So I manually checked inputs to make sure nothing was telling the bcm to turn lights on. It was a bad bcm.
You know what Jack...you are really good at what ya do sir..always learn some new from you...very persistent and relentless diag hope you will get appreciated by customer.cheers mate good luck .thx for sharing your efforts
Well Jake that was a good one. Well I just had an issue with a brake switch intermittently preventing the shift lever from coming out of park and lo and behold it had that magical switch right where it belongs on the brake pedal. Like the saying goes keep it simple . Thanks for sharing Jake. 👍
Wow bro. Thank you very much for your persistence in photography. I appreciate you very much, the way of the examination and the diligence and perseverance and willpower. You are just awesome. Thank you very much.
I have found on aftermarket diagram they confused the year of the vehicle on the end or beginning of the new model year sometimes you have to go to the next or before of the year of car you are working on. I ran into that on a honda ac problem. The wires' colors did not match also the control ac head
Excellent diagnosis Jake! I was wandering if you did it or not or if it work or not to use the Topdon thermal camera in the connector you were having problems with! Just to see activity in that particular wire using heat from the wire. I watched the videos mostly in my car when driving but this one was crazy! I want to buy one of those thermal cameras that is why I asked! Thank you for sharing and I keep using your techniques!
Amazing 👏 well done. Watch all your videos. I'd never found that in a million yrs. Luck sometimes plays a big part, but you have to be in the right ball park 1st, and you were
As a DIY'er it's a must we have the wiring and block diagrams for the electrical systems in newer vehicles l. Chilton and Haynes no longer produce manuals for comprehensive vehicle repairs
Thanks for filming this one , enjoyed it , had to watch it back a few times to follow it all , is the trailer brake wire connecror near the A/C pipes ?
This is one of your best videos🎉 It doesn't have a trailer brake switch but it has a trailer brake module? Where did the moisture come from to contaminate the connection terminals?
That looks like mosfets that lost theire pull-up resistors, leaving the gates floating. It reacting to you touching the headlight lens is evidence of that. Inside the bcm are pull-ups (since theyre high side drivers) to the battery voltage.
when i seen lights i automatically thought of remote start since most cars will flash lights before starting. i'm curious why that high in the dash it corroded. low voltage/ low amperage electronics have no place in portable outdoor environments. i'll take my mechanical switches and relays any day
Wow, that was a crazy one to fix. Would the head / brake lights come on if you shorted pin 6 and the white/tan wires that you cleaned with deoxit and would it recreate the problem? 👍
They know exactly what they are doing sir, and it all boils down to one thing MULA 💰 They save a ton of money eliminating the brake light switch and its wiring to and from. Incorporate everything into a shitty module, and when it fails? It's out of warranty, it's the customer's problem. Same reason they are eliminating physical controls, buttons, knobs, and making it all software on a screen.
This kind of diag is why the modern day tech of this caliber should be paid well.
Masterclass from MasterJake - the only mystery remaining is why you do not have half a million subs yet
I could not agree with you more. Jake is the best of the very best! I love his content and have even copied his bulb across the meter terminals trick. Cheaper than a LoadPro!
That was unreal! You are relentless in your diagnosis. I would have loved to see what a dealership tech would have replaced on that truck! You do such detailed work!
Awesome diagnostic. You are relentless. “No parts required”. (Eric O and Ivan)
Outstanding diagnosis and relentless logic - resisting the temptation to pull the trigger on the BCM. Hats off to you 😊
THATS REALLY TOUGH TO DO ESPECIALLY IN THAT CASE.YOU WANT TO PULL THE TRIGGER BUT SOMETHING IN YOUR HEAD TELLS YOU TO HOLD OFF.BEEN THERE A FEW TIMES AND JUST LIKE THIS CASE IT PAID OFF FROM REPLACING A GOOD PART.
My 2000 golf TDI would randomly set the alarm off if I lock the doors at night and it rains or was muggy out. It was a rare occasion one year when it was dry but the very next year it was so annoying, I stopped locking my doors, eventually the back hatch wouldn't open anymore. It would show that the latch handle circuit was shorted to ground. It was rotted out and couldn't be replaced due to the age of the car. I just recently had a battery drain issue where this Honda pilot would drain the battery over night randomly. I found out that the tailgate switch was intermittently closing the circuit causing the vehicle to illuminating the lighting system and waking everything up for a few minutes. After a few times of this happening it would drain out the battery. It took me a few minutes to diagnose the issue but learning your channel, allowed me to diagnose the problem quicker. Thanks again.
That was a crazy case study! I can't imagine how that dummy plug got corroded in the middle of the dash? Great job, as always. Thanks for sharing! I got to get that TopDon charger. The Ah feature can be a big help.
My guess is some type of galvanic corrosion.
@@rodvan-zeller6360 Galvanic corrosion is between dissimilar metals and an electrolyte has be present. This is more likely electrolytic corrosion caused by the potential difference between adjacent pins. This still requires some kind of electrolyte and its not clear how the connector could have become wet, possibly a drinks spill from the top of the dashboard which has been cleaned externally?
@@ferrumignis Thank you for the reply. I used the wrong term.
There are lots of stories around the diag community about odd vehicle issues, phantom drains, “car is possessed” that link back to electrical connectors and modules underneath the cup holders. Colas are reputed to be especially bad (the acid, I guess?). I’m beginning to think that a standard question should be “has there been a Big Gulp spillage in the vehicle?”
@@ferrumignisMaybe detailing the interior. Some of those folks go ham with the chemicals and water.
Customers often don't understand, to no fault of their own, that intermittent problems can be very difficult to diagnose. Not everything is a 1 hour diagnostic, nor duplicatable every time. I'm a Toyota tech and having the factory diagrams is very helpfult. When we work on other brands, we only have AllData (SomeData) to go by.
Yea not everything is 1 hour diag indeed. Infact tracing fault that keep long, consume a lot of human life
BOO=brake on/off. It's Ford terminology
if plan a, changing the bcm, does not fix it what is plan b? eliminate plan b before changing a $800+ bcm. makes you wonder why more planes are not hitting the ground every thing is run by wire. I love this kind of trouble shooting. Keep up the good work.
Yep always need to rule out plan b before going with plan a.
_"if plan a, changing the bcm, does not fix it what is plan b?"_
If it was a dealer they'd probably change half a dozen other modules at customers expense and when that doesn't work they'd say it needs a a whole new wiring loom.
Gotta admit, I would have most likely put a BCM in after see the lack of input to request light and brake lights on. But like you said, the lights that were coming on didn’t really add up to a bad input with the lack of 3rd brake light and other running lights. Damn fine job on figuring this one out man. I know some people hate doing stuff like this but I personally enjoy this type of challenge. (Not the intermittent part so much lol) Once you figure out a difficult problem such as this, it’s always one of the most rewarding parts of the job in my opinion. Thanks for sharing, nice to learn some new strategies for those odd ball problems.
Wow, brilliant diagnostics, I hate to think what a dealership would have done in that situation, the owner would have probably had a bill for thousands without a fix. 👍
Great video and diagnosis. I’m glad you listened to your gut and didn’t replace the BCM.
You definitely get some interesting vehicles.
I guess we won’t tell Megan what happened to her purple toothbrush. 🤣🤣
At 14:20 it was clear: BOO BOO BOO - you got a ghost problem 🙂 Now, seriously, your clear minded approach and determination (not luck - informed testing!) made for a fantastic diagnostic! Well done, Jake!! You are absolutely right - you need diagrams you can trust, with a fault as weird as this one! In the end, it was indeed a ghost - the ghost of the trailer break control switch, hiding inside the dash, to drive anyone crazy enough to replace the BCM. I really enjoyed this video and I'm very pleased you solved the problem, no parts required - only time and brainpower 🙂
This is great. It is good you have this well documented. Can you imagine writing a bill without being able to show all the time spent on it.
Glad you listened to that bird in the back of your head. Tweeting it isn't the BCM
Fantastic diagnostics, you said it was just luck that made you unplug that connector from the BCM, I reckon it was the same inquisitive mind that lead you into diagnostics and makes you a great diagnostitian
What would of caused that corrosion? kind of in a weird place for water to reach. Great job !
Watch my video that just came out yesterday. I sneak my theory in on that video
What a fascinating story. Lesser men would have replaced the BCM and then slapped their foreheads when it didn't fix the problem.
Not many techs could have solved this one. Even fewer could have solved this without throwing an unnecessary BCM at it. I shudder to think what the experience would have been at a standard dealership. Absolutely excellent work. Love this channel.
I'm wondering how many other connectors in back of the dash have corrosion in them.
Oh ya. Good job Jake! THAT was a tough one!
Excellent Jake! Looks like that BCM was definitely a suspect. Taking it to the next level paid off for sure!
This could have cost the customer a small fortune if the vehicle was taken to another shop. Thank you for another great case study!
You and that battery maintainer are my heroes. You're pretty amazing. I don't even want to think about how fun all that research must have been. Thank you for the video.
Its amazing how one's luck quotient increases the more persistent and competent you are. As far as the headlight coming on, what likely is the wiring harness is likely for the trailer brake switch, which obviously would turn on the trailer brake lights when activated and may possibly be back feeding through the rear taillights which are illuminated when the headlights are turned on.
You did not disappoint. I was saying “Don’t you fire that parts cannon! Don’t you do it!” 🤣 This one was crazy.
Fun fact from my experience with Ford trucks and Vans-Can't separate the modules from the actuator or it sets a DTC. Been there more than once and have the t shirt. This applies to many vehicles after about 2011 but it's in the configuration/replacement service info on the Ford site if it applies.
And Valley Forge makes that diagram for ALLDATA and Mitchell and they are often wrong in my experience. Especially GM stuff. Great thing finally for ALLDATA-They have copied Ford's OE along with their great system of hyperlinks for finding connector locations and pin outs. Great find!
Great job finding that voltage leak. green crusty pins make a lousy troublesome resistor.
omg what a diagnose absolutely brilliant ,credit for not calling a bcm which was my initial thought
Wow Jake, that maybe the best no parts required video I've seen! Very Good.
It's like a bimetal that expands And contracts.... Cools off it closes And when it heats up it opens ... Constant Hot to the circuit ..
This video give the meaning of don't be parts changer ❤❤❤.. All the recpect for this intelligent diag
Wonder if that truck had been detailed with a steam wand? Some serious crusties there. Modern vehicles are sooo sensitive to moisture! Brilliant work as usual Jake. 🎯
Wonderful. You are one of the best diagnosticians? I hope is right my English is not the best and I'm not from here!
Awesome diagnostics with this one. But what I can't figure out is how that corrosion could develop in such an area that doesn't get wet. I could see that happening to the BCM due to its location but not the TBC connector, very odd place to happen.
Great video and excellent diagnostic, as always!
Yeah, these intermittent drains are the most time consuming and hard to catch..
Wow!!! Awesome Diagnosis and Repair.
Awesome find, good thing you stuck to your gut and continued testing!👍👍
If you wanted to recreate the problem with a DC voltage corrosion crosstalk you could you a current limited DC power supply to inject a signal into the BCM, perhaps through a 100 Ohm resistor to see if the problem occurs.
After removing the corrosion from the connector you should wrap in electrical tape because it looks like to get that kind of corrosion on the inside of the dash there has to be either water intrusion path (a drip path) or the truck is a flood vehicle?
Excellent diagnosis, my favorite so far!
Very interesting,I don't like that Ford brake switch installed on the master cilinders or near of flamable fluids..(water from the sunroof?or coffee get to the trailer connector?..
I’ve had the same problems with OE vs aftermarket diagram’s also.
Wow! I'm really impressed. Great job 👍
Top Diagnosing Jake. 🙂
Nicely done! I never believed for a second that the BCM was at fault. My first thought was that cargo switch, but I'm happily wrong. You're getting a nose for this stuff, just like Eric O!
I hope you charged the customer accordingly!
You're very good technician 👍
The owner of this truck is lucky. thanks for sharing this diag
Wow crazy and awesome case study master Jake. Thanks for sharing knowledge.
I had an F250 do this. But it would turn on all 4 as if the hazard switch was on. The bcm controls all of it. It was a difficult diag because you couldn't get the ignition on to look at live data. So I manually checked inputs to make sure nothing was telling the bcm to turn lights on. It was a bad bcm.
Congrats Jake great diag. Impressive.
Weird parasite drain indeed… this could even cause me to throw bcm at it… well thanks for the method used to trace to this problem.
Good job really tough one
You know what Jack...you are really good at what ya do sir..always learn some new from you...very persistent and relentless diag hope you will get appreciated by customer.cheers mate good luck .thx for sharing your efforts
Well Jake that was a good one. Well I just had an issue with a brake switch intermittently preventing the shift lever from coming out of park and lo and behold it had that magical switch right where it belongs on the brake pedal. Like the saying goes keep it simple . Thanks for sharing Jake. 👍
Great video, keep them coming.
Wow excellent video, very challenging fault
That set of lights that came on erroneously may be those that flash when you lock the doors or some other intermittent signal.
Wild guess.
Wow bro. Thank you very much for your persistence in photography. I appreciate you very much, the way of the examination and the diligence and perseverance and willpower. You are just awesome. Thank you very much.
I have found on aftermarket diagram they confused the year of the vehicle on the end or beginning of the new model year sometimes you have to go to the next or before of the year of car you are working on. I ran into that on a honda ac problem. The wires' colors did not match also the control ac head
Excellent diagnosis Jake! I was wandering if you did it or not or if it work or not to use the Topdon thermal camera in the connector you were having problems with! Just to see activity in that particular wire using heat from the wire. I watched the videos mostly in my car when driving but this one was crazy! I want to buy one of those thermal cameras that is why I asked! Thank you for sharing and I keep using your techniques!
I don’t have Luck with a thermal camera on battery drains. Usually what I get will be a low current issue that triggers large current symptoms.
Very nice diag. How do you think that connector got corroded back there?
Amazing 👏 well done. Watch all your videos. I'd never found that in a million yrs.
Luck sometimes plays a big part, but you have to be in the right ball park 1st, and you were
keep em coming jake, we love you hahah , learning a lot from you
As a DIY'er it's a must we have the wiring and block diagrams for the electrical systems in newer vehicles l. Chilton and Haynes no longer produce manuals for comprehensive vehicle repairs
You can purchase Access to single vehicle service information through alldatadiy
Thanks for filming this one , enjoyed it , had to watch it back a few times to follow it all , is the trailer brake wire connecror near the A/C pipes ?
No
Fantastic troubleshooting
A Very Good Catch 👌🫡
Sometimes troubleshooting is just luck and a little knowledge. The knowledge is needed to get close enough for the luck to stick.
That was very impressive! Great catch!
20:47 security system when u trigger it like with the remote will trigger lights esp in low light conditions too.. food for thought
thanks for the ride!
Wow Awesome job jake
Hey Jake, great diag - thanks. Any thoughts on why there was corrosion on an inside connector that was sitting up high in the dash?
after seeing the small signal at 22min, my guess is a cheap phone charger or similar, the suspense is killing me!
This is one of your best videos🎉
It doesn't have a trailer brake switch but it has a trailer brake module?
Where did the moisture come from to contaminate the connection terminals?
Awesome work 👍👍👍
That looks like mosfets that lost theire pull-up resistors, leaving the gates floating. It reacting to you touching the headlight lens is evidence of that. Inside the bcm are pull-ups (since theyre high side drivers) to the battery voltage.
thanks for your talk 👍👍👍
That's a strange one - how did the water get there? What else did it get to?
Job well done 👍
great video its so odd how that circuit could cause those problems
20:19 At this stage i will disconnect ABS module, because maybe hi gave order or trigger on BCM to do that tru CAN BUS. Pure to be seen...
wow great video thanks
wow great job
Hero...
when i seen lights i automatically thought of remote start since most cars will flash lights before starting. i'm curious why that high in the dash it corroded. low voltage/ low amperage electronics have no place in portable outdoor environments. i'll take my mechanical switches and relays any day
nicely done!
Grasias
Wow, that was a crazy one to fix.
Would the head / brake lights come on if you shorted pin 6 and the white/tan wires that you cleaned with deoxit and would it recreate the problem? 👍
Jake I don't think out of all the top guys on you tube anyone else would have found that problem with the exception of maybe Scotty Kilmer 🤪😂
Voltage drop through BCM showing upon the LIN?
It was definitely strange but didn't seem to matter
It may be luck, but you made your own luck.
I’m dealing with something similar. How did you charge for this diag?
By the hour
What caused the corrosion? Plug is not in a wet area....
I have no idea
Probably something cleaning solvent or juice goes through that coin holder...i asking my self too.
Which teslong bore scope do you have and what do you think about it?
They are linked on my Amazon store and I really like both of them.
First?
lol yep. Let me know what you think cause I don’t know that I would have figured it out if it wasn’t for dumb luck doing out of the box testing.
ivan! love your videos man watch the. all the time two of the greats!!
I bet you no one within my location would have tracked dowb the corroded connection..
Hands up.! Man Jake :xD
You don't need a brake switch but you need a booster.
Being lucky is often times better than being good in some cases. My question is, how did that get wet so it could corrode in the first place?
They know exactly what they are doing sir, and it all boils down to one thing MULA 💰
They save a ton of money eliminating the brake light switch and its wiring to and from. Incorporate everything into a shitty module, and when it fails? It's out of warranty, it's the customer's problem. Same reason they are eliminating physical controls, buttons, knobs, and making it all software on a screen.
How in the heck did it get so corroded in side the vehicle in the south. Was it by the coast salt water air 🤷🏼♂️