Clearly a top quality craftsman who’s ‘invested’ not only in your chosen profession but also new technology. We have a Daikin ASHP and have found it incredibly difficult to source honest, trustworthy and straightforward advice on setting the system to run optimally. As an ‘emerging’ technology opinions differ greatly and it would appear to be a ‘dark art’ at present!! Looking forward to additional, informative content ☮️
Absolutely fabolous that you supplied us with an update. Looking into getting something like this myself, but have been struggling to get hold of any usefull data. I have sourced a Vaillant type from a supplier in my country, Norway. However I am a bit worried about efficiency during winter, and how mach latent heat I can capture from the basement where it will be placed. Average temp around my area is 7degrees Celcius, and the cellar is at 12C now. A bit humid there, so the potential of getting some dehumidification would be welcome.
Thanks for the update. I run the same air to air heat pump system as you (9 rooms) and have one of these heat pumps cylinders on order through a friend of mine who deals with Daikin, I ordered after I watched your install video, so thanks for that! 👍🏻
Great stuff, Thanks for the diagrahms explaining the venting options👍Be good to get a whole year of data.do you know what COP you are getting? Looking forward to the new air to air/water system you are going to fit
@@dameonhill Just checked and they are available in Ireland where I'm from. Plus the Multi+ A2A with a 90/120 litre tank. Apparently I'm spoilt for choice over here?!!
With a bit of a search, I have yet to find any cases of legionella in single family domestic houses in the UK. I have found some in multi occupancy buildings like flats but not houses. Can anybody demonstrate otherwise? I'd be interested to know.
50C is hot enough to prevent legionella from growing, and it also requires stagnant water, which doesn't happen if you are using your hot water. The rules are overly conservative, and legionella is not a realistic problem.
informative; thanks. I have a gas boiler in an upstairs airing cupboard. it has a flue up through the roof. works perfectly well. for now... it provides central heating and hot water [120L cylinder]. could I repurpose the existing flue that goes through the roof into the "exhaust" air outlet, and perhaps use loft air as the "supply" air to an air source heat pump? could it replace the existing boiler ("Glow-worm") but "everything else" - pumps, cylinder, etc stay the same. The cylinder has an immersion heater, [as a backup], so I already have electricity supply available. I'm thinking an R290 refrigerant that can reach the 70C necessary to be able to continue using existing radiators and for the pasteurisation cycle. if such a product | installation could be done, it would, I expect, be a much simpler, much quicker installation - no need to install new pipes to an outside unit, no need to lift floorboards, breach the house envelope, etc. the home is 10 years old, so relatively well insulated [for the UK!]
I've been researching alternatives for when my 8yr old combi gives up the ghost. I really like the idea of these non split heat pumps as I do have a small solar system that would probably run the pump during the day a lot of the summer time. Regarding the ducting - the ideal thing I would want to do is have some kind of adjustable duct, so that in the winter it ducts straight up, in and out to my open vented attic, but in the summer, I could flick a switch or lever and change it to duct in and out of the living room so that it would effectively cool my air in the house slightly whilst generating hot water. Do you think that's possible?
What of running the Heat Pump Cylinder on lower tariff on Night Saver Electricity thus allowing the compressor for cylinder to spin up a that lower rate and even raising the Nigh Set point temperature on same several degrees thus getting more heat stored within the cylinder to be then blended with a little cold water maybe even storing more of same for day use if not used creating less day run time.
Glad to see an installer putting their own money where their mouth is so to speak - I see a lot of videos making claims but no real world installs or figures to back this up. This is an interesting one as I am fortunate to be able to divert PV to my DHW but I've just added a battery and so the excess available for the diversion is now less - prior to that I was getting 265 ish days of 'free' HW, if that was purely gas then I'd be looking at 3000kWh/year - however using a HP I could make use of the multiplication factor to get more for the remaining excess kWh - good to see that this has that option...
@Dameon how do these compare to Fischer/Sunamp Heat Batteries? They just need 2.8kW per hour and fully charge in 2 hours this for 210l equivalent water cylinder…interrested to hear your thoughts, thx
Hello Dameon Thank you accidentally came across your videos on A2A heating / cooling system installs at Mike’s home. I also see you have this hot water system as described above 👆. I wish to discuss my own house (built 2007) using conventional Vaillant Eco Tec condensing gas boiler etc I am embarking along similar to your above two videos (A2A part just completed in October) how ever stage 2 ie hot water replacement of 200L from Mega Flo is still to be designed and completed. I would be grateful to initially pick your expert brain and also discuss implementation of the best solution. Let me know how we can hold a telecon? Many Thanks NP
The mistake here is to have low energy hot water, and not using it. You need a washing machine and dishwasher with hot and cold connections. Most of their energy consumption comes from heating cold water.
Many appliances now are low water consumption, therefore hardly any hot water would reach the machine before it stops filling and then you’ve got heated water cooling off in pipework. Feasible perhaps if everything were in the same room together. And then there’s the challenge of finding energy efficient appliances with hot and cold supplies in the 21st century. You could connect hot water onto the cold supply with a temperature blending valve in-line, if it were worth it and wouldn’t cause any issues with the appliance. My Miele dishwasher would very likely throw a fault code if filled with warm water. It has a pre-storage function whereby it keeps pre wash water at ambient temperatures within itself. Good idea, but needs to be thought through
@@dameonhill I run our Bosch Dishwasher on hot water which has a maximum inlet temperature of 60C. In my previous house I insulated all the hot pipes and had almost instant hot water, that's an in progress at the moment in the current house, while we procrastinate about getting the same type of heating system as you, do you cover Burnham-on-Sea?
what was your annualised energy consumption with an old resistive immersion? difficult to understand the consumption/lack without that context. That new Daikin multisplit sounds interesting as a ‘whole home’ boiler/CH replacement
Clearly a top quality craftsman who’s ‘invested’ not only in your chosen profession but also new technology. We have a Daikin ASHP and have found it incredibly difficult to source honest, trustworthy and straightforward advice on setting the system to run optimally. As an ‘emerging’ technology opinions differ greatly and it would appear to be a ‘dark art’ at present!! Looking forward to additional, informative content ☮️
Absolutely fabolous that you supplied us with an update. Looking into getting something like this myself, but have been struggling to get hold of any usefull data.
I have sourced a Vaillant type from a supplier in my country, Norway. However I am a bit worried about efficiency during winter, and how mach latent heat I can capture from the basement where it will be placed. Average temp around my area is 7degrees Celcius, and the cellar is at 12C now. A bit humid there, so the potential of getting some dehumidification would be welcome.
Thanks for the update. I run the same air to air heat pump system as you (9 rooms) and have one of these heat pumps cylinders on order through a friend of mine who deals with Daikin, I ordered after I watched your install video, so thanks for that! 👍🏻
That’s great. Please let me know how you get in with it
I just came back to see the dog again
Great stuff, Thanks for the diagrahms explaining the venting options👍Be good to get a whole year of data.do you know what COP you are getting? Looking forward to the new air to air/water system you are going to fit
by the way, your insulation on that Daikin pipewok is first rate👍Commercial standard.
Been looking forward to this video for a while! I want one for my new home next year! Can I "borrow" yours?!
If Daikin release them in the UK then you’ll be the first to know 😂
@@dameonhill Just checked and they are available in Ireland where I'm from. Plus the Multi+ A2A with a 90/120 litre tank. Apparently I'm spoilt for choice over here?!!
I'm interested in the new Daikin air to air multisplit with hot water - when will it be available?
Check out the new Mixergy heat pump cylinder!
What's the downside to the valliant cylinder?
With a bit of a search, I have yet to find any cases of legionella in single family domestic houses in the UK. I have found some in multi occupancy buildings like flats but not houses. Can anybody demonstrate otherwise? I'd be interested to know.
50C is hot enough to prevent legionella from growing, and it also requires stagnant water, which doesn't happen if you are using your hot water.
The rules are overly conservative, and legionella is not a realistic problem.
informative; thanks.
I have a gas boiler in an upstairs airing cupboard. it has a flue up through the roof. works perfectly well. for now...
it provides central heating and hot water [120L cylinder].
could I repurpose the existing flue that goes through the roof into the "exhaust" air outlet, and perhaps use loft air as the "supply" air to an air source heat pump? could it replace the existing boiler ("Glow-worm") but "everything else" - pumps, cylinder, etc stay the same. The cylinder has an immersion heater, [as a backup], so I already have electricity supply available. I'm thinking an R290 refrigerant that can reach the 70C necessary to be able to continue using existing radiators and for the pasteurisation cycle.
if such a product | installation could be done, it would, I expect, be a much simpler, much quicker installation - no need to install new pipes to an outside unit, no need to lift floorboards, breach the house envelope, etc.
the home is 10 years old, so relatively well insulated [for the UK!]
I've been researching alternatives for when my 8yr old combi gives up the ghost. I really like the idea of these non split heat pumps as I do have a small solar system that would probably run the pump during the day a lot of the summer time. Regarding the ducting - the ideal thing I would want to do is have some kind of adjustable duct, so that in the winter it ducts straight up, in and out to my open vented attic, but in the summer, I could flick a switch or lever and change it to duct in and out of the living room so that it would effectively cool my air in the house slightly whilst generating hot water. Do you think that's possible?
What of running the Heat Pump Cylinder on lower tariff on Night Saver Electricity thus allowing the compressor for cylinder to spin up a that lower rate and even raising the Nigh Set point temperature on same several degrees thus getting more heat stored within the cylinder to be then blended with a little cold water maybe even storing more of same for day use if not used creating less day run time.
How come you recommend the vaillant over the Dimplex? They are both made by Dimplex
Glad to see an installer putting their own money where their mouth is so to speak - I see a lot of videos making claims but no real world installs or figures to back this up. This is an interesting one as I am fortunate to be able to divert PV to my DHW but I've just added a battery and so the excess available for the diversion is now less - prior to that I was getting 265 ish days of 'free' HW, if that was purely gas then I'd be looking at 3000kWh/year - however using a HP I could make use of the multiplication factor to get more for the remaining excess kWh - good to see that this has that option...
@Dameon how do these compare to Fischer/Sunamp Heat Batteries? They just need 2.8kW per hour and fully charge in 2 hours this for 210l equivalent water cylinder…interrested to hear your thoughts, thx
This is only for hot water, and not for heating yes ? Could such a system be used for home heating too ?
Search for the Air 310 by Ochsner
Hello Dameon
Thank you accidentally came across your videos on A2A heating / cooling system installs at Mike’s home. I also see you have this hot water system as described above 👆.
I wish to discuss my own house (built 2007) using conventional Vaillant Eco Tec condensing gas boiler etc
I am embarking along similar to your above two videos (A2A part just completed in October) how ever stage 2 ie hot water replacement of 200L from Mega Flo is still to be designed and completed.
I would be grateful to initially pick your expert brain and also discuss implementation of the best solution.
Let me know how we can hold a telecon?
Many Thanks
NP
Y 😊😊
Dameon..How far apart do the exterior intake and exhaust need to be?
Chris, 50cm if on the same wall. That's measured centre to centre in this instance.
What about the Mixergy cylinder? That’s available
This has a heat pump with it too
The mistake here is to have low energy hot water, and not using it. You need a washing machine and dishwasher with hot and cold connections. Most of their energy consumption comes from heating cold water.
Many appliances now are low water consumption, therefore hardly any hot water would reach the machine before it stops filling and then you’ve got heated water cooling off in pipework. Feasible perhaps if everything were in the same room together. And then there’s the challenge of finding energy efficient appliances with hot and cold supplies in the 21st century. You could connect hot water onto the cold supply with a temperature blending valve in-line, if it were worth it and wouldn’t cause any issues with the appliance. My Miele dishwasher would very likely throw a fault code if filled with warm water. It has a pre-storage function whereby it keeps pre wash water at ambient temperatures within itself. Good idea, but needs to be thought through
@@dameonhill I run our Bosch Dishwasher on hot water which has a maximum inlet temperature of 60C. In my previous house I insulated all the hot pipes and had almost instant hot water, that's an in progress at the moment in the current house, while we procrastinate about getting the same type of heating system as you, do you cover Burnham-on-Sea?
@@MrKarlPrince Yes absolutely, please drop me an email 👍
what was your annualised energy consumption with an old resistive immersion? difficult to understand the consumption/lack without that context. That new Daikin multisplit sounds interesting as a ‘whole home’ boiler/CH replacement