This is a good example why we shouldn’t look down on guitars and instruments made outside of the USA. There are some great artisans from Asian countries and they make some fine instruments. It is a nice thing that we can learn skills from each other like this. There needs to be more peace and respect in the world.
I think, Luthier made instruments tends to be nicely made from any region as along as your local climate is not different enough to wrap the wood, for factory made that's more about the quality control of the brand.
I'm sure the young fella has soaked up some golden wisdom from Dan and I'm sure Mr. Erlewine may have picked up a few tips and tricks too. These generational exchanges of knowledge help the trade improve.
This is a much higher quality repair than when I did basically the same thing for a new strat pickguard - I used match sticks to fill the holes! But it is a $48 strat, not a Gibson from 1925, so I'm ok with it.
Hint: The medical wooden-handled cotton swabs are cheap [ non-sterile ] and the wooden shaft exactly matches Fender pickguard and cavity cover screws. They also fit Gibsons, and most import guitars as well. Once you use these wooden shafts for filling pickguard holes, you will never go back to toothpicks for that purpose. I still use toothpicks for tuning machine mounting screw holes, as they work great for that. Give it a try--you will be happy. As a bonus, those swabs are excellent for cleaning electronics, as the cotton heads are very dense, and don't shed cotton strands easily.
I did that in the 90s to my Kramer strat when the strap button on the top horn stripped the wood. Plugged it with paper match sticks and re-screwed the button in.
Ha ha ha! I’ve often used tooth picks, sometimes with a little carpenters glue if available. But, this was while on the road, with band, needed fixed fast. Although many of my quick repairs are still holding many years later. May not be the best way but, when in a pinch you have to work with what you got. The show must go on!
Nice of you to have an expert from another country show us his skills. I'm a DYI guy and use the same tools and approach when I plug neck holes. Thanks for sharing.
Way, way better than using toothpicks or cocktail sticks as I have done for years. Sometimes the simplest of methods can elude even seasoned repairer! I will be using this method from now on. A well deserved thumbs up and thank you from me.
What a great and informative vid. Having watched Carl demonstrate his expertise, I have just performed the same routine to “fix” the six locating holes on a Squier SE Strat. I replaced the existing “monkey-metal” Squier tuners with a set of Vanson locking tuners and the locating holes were out by about 1.0 to 1.5mm. Not a huge amount, but enough to crank the tuner shafts off-perpendicular to the line of the headstock. I didn’t have any mahogany lying around but substituted pieces of oak cut from an old worktop (even harder wood than mahogany). Worked great and the fix is perfect. Thanks again chaps!
I plan to restore a forgotten mandolin from the same era, it's daunting since I have minimal woodworking experience but I'm looking forward to it. Great video
I think Dan, or someone showed how to sharpen the replacement wood in a pencil sharpener. This is similar, much better than toothpicks! Welcome Carl! Thanxz
OMG Dan, I love watching your videos, I learn so much, you have so many useful tricks. Thank you, thank you so much. I am handy woodworking/carpentry/staining/painting/building things but guitar building and repair is a whole different animal. I have anywhere from 3 to 8 pieces in process at any one time (necks/bodies/hardware install/finishes/refurbishing/repairs/rewiring etc.) I am a StewMac member and buy from StewMax. Perhaps you can help me with a repair that is kicking my behind - I'm working on an Epiphone Les Paul Jr. body that had a pretty good sized ding in the back edge - got it wood filled and shaped but just can't get it to where I can get any sort of match for the black finish. The wood filler is porous so any finish won't hide the patch. The wood shows through if I remove the fill, so I need to fill & form/sand the ding so it will be smooth like the poly finish on this import body, then get it covered in black. Any suggestions? Thank you if you have time. Robbie L. Estes Park Colorado Erick and all of you at Stew Mac are superb too.
Like the idea of chucking the repair sticks in drill and spinning against sandpaper. For roughing the end of the stick, think I'd be pushing chisel AWAY from vice (cringe at slipping and jamming into vice)- cutting toward end of stick. I would also have chisel flipped over when trimming down to surface of the headstock. Just observations from my own potential to screw things up.. ;-)
Problem with chiseling away from the vise is with cross grain wood you would snap the end of the stick off when the chisel caught. By chiseling into the vise you support the cut, much like planing into a bench dog.
@StewMac thanks for the lesson. Would it be better to sand the wood used for the dowels and collect the dust, Tape off the bottom to avoid leaks, pack the dust and flood with ca glue? You mentioned there is a difference in the spacing...can you cut the metal plate in between to make four separate pieces or would that affect the tuning? If so...can you fabricate a new plate instead? (Trying to learn)
Those are the easy holes! What about the big ones? I used two component putty after an attempt with custom size dowels (made with a tip from Dan's book). Sadly the difference between the two hole sizes was too small so that little bit of dowel around the hole didn't stay in place after drilling.
LOVE these video's. One thing that used to concern me in building acoustic guitars is fitting the back and top to the sides w/ kerfling. The back and top are slightly convex (Slight bow). SO, how to sand the sides and kerf's so they are at the angle of the top and bottom bow? Do you just flatten at 90 degrees to side? I would think you need to make them a slight angle to compensate w bow of top and back? What is the method for this?
Is it really necessary to grain match this type of plug? Not sure why?? I've always just used regular dowels, and then matched the finish color of the ones that are exposed. Never had any problems...
Can I ask why you don’t just use toothpicks and glue ? I’m guessing the toothpick has the grain running the wrong way so my question is what would happen if you use toothpicks instead?
Yes. Matches is a good way. Matching the grain and using real wood is more for the better guitars and those holes that are somehow not covered. And I feel like it is easier to drill a better hole if the new hole overlapped the old hole. Thanks for all of your comments. You guys are great.
A pencil sharpener will work with dowels but not with long grain and grain matching, the wood would just splinter and crumble. That being said I actually go to Woodcraft and buy hardwood dowels of the popular guitar species and indeed use a pencil sharpener. It's a faster way to do it and gets the job done bit you are stuck looking at end grain if you don't touch up the paint.
This is a good example why we shouldn’t look down on guitars and instruments made outside of the USA. There are some great artisans from Asian countries and they make some fine instruments. It is a nice thing that we can learn skills from each other like this. There needs to be more peace and respect in the world.
I think, Luthier made instruments tends to be nicely made from any region as along as your local climate is not different enough to wrap the wood, for factory made that's more about the quality control of the brand.
Old comment but I absolutely love it and agree with you 100%.
The best videos are the ones where you learn something new. I NEVER thought to use a drill to form a peg of wood. Excellent!
Thanks
Dan, these Stew Mac videos have made the COVID lockdown MUCH more tolerable. Thank you for all you do. I’ll see you on the LIVE Q&A this Friday!
i needed this video 3 weeks ago. but i still figured it out by thinking "what would dan do?"
I'm sure the young fella has soaked up some golden wisdom from Dan and I'm sure Mr. Erlewine may have picked up a few tips and tricks too. These generational exchanges of knowledge help the trade improve.
This is a much higher quality repair than when I did basically the same thing for a new strat pickguard - I used match sticks to fill the holes! But it is a $48 strat, not a Gibson from 1925, so I'm ok with it.
Hint: The medical wooden-handled cotton swabs are cheap [ non-sterile ] and the wooden shaft exactly matches Fender pickguard and cavity cover screws. They also fit Gibsons, and most import guitars as well.
Once you use these wooden shafts for filling pickguard holes, you will never go back to toothpicks for that purpose. I still use toothpicks for tuning machine mounting screw holes, as they work great for that. Give it a try--you will be happy.
As a bonus, those swabs are excellent for cleaning electronics, as the cotton heads are very dense, and don't shed cotton strands easily.
I did that in the 90s to my Kramer strat when the strap button on the top horn stripped the wood. Plugged it with paper match sticks and re-screwed the button in.
Ha ha ha! I’ve often used tooth picks, sometimes with a little carpenters glue if available. But, this was while on the road, with band, needed fixed fast. Although many of my quick repairs are still holding many years later. May not be the best way but, when in a pinch you have to work with what you got. The show must go on!
Nice of you to have an expert from another country show us his skills. I'm a DYI guy and use the same tools and approach when I plug neck holes. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
Way, way better than using toothpicks or cocktail sticks as I have done for years. Sometimes the simplest of methods can elude even seasoned repairer! I will be using this method from now on. A well deserved thumbs up and thank you from me.
Thanks!
What a great and informative vid. Having watched Carl demonstrate his expertise, I have just performed the same routine to “fix” the six locating holes on a Squier SE Strat. I replaced the existing “monkey-metal” Squier tuners with a set of Vanson locking tuners and the locating holes were out by about 1.0 to 1.5mm. Not a huge amount, but enough to crank the tuner shafts off-perpendicular to the line of the headstock. I didn’t have any mahogany lying around but substituted pieces of oak cut from an old worktop (even harder wood than mahogany). Worked great and the fix is perfect. Thanks again chaps!
Great use of the drill! Learning from good repair folks is greatly appreciated.
I plan to restore a forgotten mandolin from the same era, it's daunting since I have minimal woodworking experience but I'm looking forward to it. Great video
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
Thanks Don !
Excellent demonstration!
Thanks!
I think Dan, or someone showed how to sharpen the replacement wood in a pencil sharpener. This is similar, much better than toothpicks! Welcome Carl! Thanxz
Thanks. Yes, Dan told me he also use the pencil sharpener trick. I use this way when I want to use a smaller trunk of wood.
I’m not much for guitar repair, but these videos are just so relaxing and informative. Please keep ‘em coming!
Yeah, aren't they, I thought the same :)
I appreciate your use of English. Keep up the good work Carl. I hope to be able to speak your native language one day ♥
That cap is seriously growing on me. Carl seems to like it too! 👍🏼
Carl Ho sure knows his holes. Nice video!
Thanks!
Another little tip for lighter shades of wood, make the plugs from old wooden artist brushes 👌
Thank you Carl and Dan!
Thanks !
I've got one of your books and it's very informative. I like to watch these tips in case something goes wrong and I need a solution.
Stew Mac. Always the best.
Thanks!
Great job, Carl!
Thanks
Carl Ho please stay safe when you go back to Hong Kong. #StandWithHongKong
Yes. I'm safe. Thanks for your care and your support!
@@carlhsk Stay safe, brother. God bless and be with you and your family.🙏🙏🙏
Thanks guys! Loved the demonstration.
Thanks !
good stuff
Thanks!
Stewmac reads my mind with these great videos. Thanks!
Thanks for watching !
Great video!!! Always informative. I always learn something new from you. Thanks for that. I do appreciate it.🎸🎶😁😎👍🔥
Excellent.
OMG Dan, I love watching your videos, I learn so much, you have so many useful tricks. Thank you, thank you so much.
I am handy woodworking/carpentry/staining/painting/building things but guitar building and repair is a whole different animal. I have anywhere from 3 to 8 pieces in process at any one time (necks/bodies/hardware install/finishes/refurbishing/repairs/rewiring etc.) I am a StewMac member and buy from StewMax.
Perhaps you can help me with a repair that is kicking my behind - I'm working on an Epiphone Les Paul Jr. body that had a pretty good sized ding in the back edge - got it wood filled and shaped but just can't get it to where I can get any sort of match for the black finish. The wood filler is porous so any finish won't hide the patch. The wood shows through if I remove the fill, so I need to fill & form/sand the ding so it will be smooth like the poly finish on this import body, then get it covered in black.
Any suggestions? Thank you if you have time.
Robbie L.
Estes Park Colorado
Erick and all of you at Stew Mac are superb too.
Nice to see the "old tyme way" for our upcoming CovirDarkAge...!
I will do this right now. Thank you both!
Yep stand with Hong Kong. Be safe when back home friend.
those are beautiful tuners
Thanks!
Another nice video. I like to use a file instead of sandpaper to taper the plug. It cuts the end grain more cleanly.
Oh really. Thanks for your tip!
Very timely, I just got a guitar with not-so-great tuners. might need to do this
Save the heartache and take it to a professional
Depending on the current style of tuner you have in your guitar, Hipshot has a set of tuners that don’t need mounting screws.
Thanks for this:)
Awesome
Awesome!!.
Thanks!
Wow that’s awesome! Thanks Carl!
Beautiful .. Thanks ..
Thanks for watching !
Like the idea of chucking the repair sticks in drill and spinning against sandpaper. For roughing the end of the stick, think I'd be pushing chisel AWAY from vice (cringe at slipping and jamming into vice)- cutting toward end of stick. I would also have chisel flipped over when trimming down to surface of the headstock. Just observations from my own potential to screw things up.. ;-)
Problem with chiseling away from the vise is with cross grain wood you would snap the end of the stick off when the chisel caught. By chiseling into the vise you support the cut, much like planing into a bench dog.
@@jimanderson7816 yes, that's why I'm chiseling towards the vise. The little sticks are too fragile
Carl Ho is good. Nice!
Haha do I know you? Thanks!
I used toothpicks and woodglue to fill a pickguard screw hole that was no longer gripping the screw. Not as intricate as this but got the job done ;)
Yes toothpicks save our lives!
2:06 I don't plug these 2 center holes because they're good, the 4 outer holes definitely will need to be plugged.
That’s genius!
Where can I get that hat?!
Sorry this is a secret haha
@StewMac thanks for the lesson. Would it be better to sand the wood used for the dowels and collect the dust, Tape off the bottom to avoid leaks, pack the dust and flood with ca glue? You mentioned there is a difference in the spacing...can you cut the metal plate in between to make four separate pieces or would that affect the tuning? If so...can you fabricate a new plate instead? (Trying to learn)
Awesome tips! Thanks!!!
Thanks!
Those are the easy holes! What about the big ones? I used two component putty after an attempt with custom size dowels (made with a tip from Dan's book). Sadly the difference between the two hole sizes was too small so that little bit of dowel around the hole didn't stay in place after drilling.
That was wholesome :)
Thanks!
So modern tuners are a good match for this Mandolin because it was built at the time Gibson changed the post hole spacing.
Training him well..He is lucky.
Yes I'm lucky!
great info
Thanks!
LOVE these video's. One thing that used to concern me in building acoustic guitars is fitting the back and top to the sides w/ kerfling. The back and top are slightly convex (Slight bow). SO, how to sand the sides and kerf's so they are at the angle of the top and bottom bow? Do you just flatten at 90 degrees to side? I would think you need to make them a slight angle to compensate w bow of top and back? What is the method for this?
💥 Very ✅ Nice💥
Can't wait til the general public starts taking a nice sharp chisle to their vintage mando. Thanks StewMac for the extra work!
Is it really necessary to grain match this type of plug? Not sure why?? I've always just used regular dowels, and then matched the finish color of the ones that are exposed. Never had any problems...
Great video but I'm curious as to why the tuner buttons weren't swapped back to the original color ?
Looks much easier than it is
Does anyone have a suggestion for something to plug a hole left by and unwanted pot? I have a Grestch Jet I want to simplify the wiring scheme on.
Can I ask why you don’t just use toothpicks and glue ? I’m guessing the toothpick has the grain running the wrong way so my question is what would happen if you use toothpicks instead?
With crooked holes for the tuners, an instrument will never stay in tune.Nice job, gents.
Thanks!
I use a clipper for this job. Or just toothpick
Yes. This way cam be more for those better guitars and exposed hole locations. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Good, i used matches...
HAHAHA! Me too!
Toothpicks here. If you can't see it, I don't see the issue.
@@Nobrainfalcon also a 'great' choice! Oh and already conical!
@Nat Sarim it (toothpicks) does the job and functions perfectly. But to each his own.
Yes. Matches is a good way. Matching the grain and using real wood is more for the better guitars and those holes that are somehow not covered. And I feel like it is easier to drill a better hole if the new hole overlapped the old hole. Thanks for all of your comments. You guys are great.
Pls tell me Carl has a TH-cam channel with guitar building videos
Dr. Jones, Dr. Jones! :D
ok ok ok, but i gotta know, where can I get one of those hats??
Haha ,secret!
Anyone else catch the typo in the header? C'mon, StewMac Plug...
How dose a guy about getting some repair work done through you guys?
If you don’t have a drill and sand paper a pencil sharpener works great
A pencil sharpener will work with dowels but not with long grain and grain matching, the wood would just splinter and crumble. That being said I actually go to Woodcraft and buy hardwood dowels of the popular guitar species and indeed use a pencil sharpener. It's a faster way to do it and gets the job done bit you are stuck looking at end grain if you don't touch up the paint.
@@Ibaneddie76 yes. That why I do this trick
Why not fix all the holes on a vintage instrument, especially when none of them lined up?
Very nicely done, but a LOT of work. However, that instrument deserves the extra effort.
Yes this method is for the instruments that deserve the work