THE BEAST is ALIVE! 1965 Imperial LeBaron RUNS STRONG! Abandoned Mopar Restoration! CT
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- The Beast is ALIVE! Edelbrock Carb brings The Beast to LIFE After many years! This 1965 Chrysler Imperial Lebaron was Abandoned in The Alabama Woods for over 20 years. It's a Beast! Can it be saved? CT, CT's Garage, ctmoog
#abandoned #restoration #mopar
Guys! The Beast is alive! It sounds pretty good! I really like the Edelbrock carb! What do you guys think?
It's probably breathing right for the first time in life. BEAST. I'm already thinking about straight pipes on this one.
it looks great 👍🏻it probably needs a adapter like you said but probably the old one is a easy fix with the floaters and the radiator probably a easy fix too if is made of cooper it would me like fixing the house pipes simple soldering
I'm a purist and would recommend you rebuild the original one and use it.
Mafia staff car runs again..
I like edelbrock carb they are really really good
Ain't nothing like Mopar but More power. My 64 , 413ran really good. I cruised it for a few years . Rode well. It was my first car . A Imperial Crown. I miss it .
I vote to rebuild the old carb. Glad to hear the Beast roar to life again!
One of my favorite cars of all time. What a MEAN looking luxury vehicle. Please keep working on this one. She’s a diamond in the rough.
I just want to see you finish a project, Rusty,dragon,bronco etc.
He has no mechanical ability...that should be obvious to all.
The first thing anyone should find out. Is the engine on time. Top Dead Center on the first piston. And then continue with the oil pump lubrication.
If it's lubricating or not. He's just playing around like a small kid. The radiator has a huge leak.. He's asking how long does it take a car to overheat without water. He's playing bs games. Not serious 🤡
@@Russeljfinch No means none what so ever, it's more accurate to say he has mechanical ability, but at a different level than others.
I love the 64-66 Imperials. I think they took the Lincoln look to a better level. Same designer.
The big port on the front is for PCV the big one on the back is for power brake booster one of the small ones are direct vacuum the other is throttle modulated vacuum for the distributor.
Nice work. Use the Key to start the car. It is not working because the car is in drive and the neutral safety switch on the trans is preventing the electrical connection. Get it in Park and the key will work. BOTH carbs are AFB adjust the Idle, and the two idle air ratio screws on the bottom front and it should be fine. you can probably clean the old carb and it would work well. Just have to keep adjustuing everything. Use factory stud for throttle and trans kickdown you saw on side of carb. New ball with new carb is not for Mopars. No reason to rebuild that engine, internals seem fine, attach vacuum gauge to help you tune it.
Thank you! Great advice!
Amazing unit one of 2164 units ever made. Please treat it with love. I think the restoration is gonna be amazing
Hi CT, yep need a shim for the new carb but I'm sure you can clean up the old carb to run like new. Just slap on JB weld on the rad for now till the rest of the car is restored. Save money and make the old stuff work temporarily if need be. Patch up the exhaust pipes if there to cut down on the noise. You got to fix the tranny so it shifts into park to start with. Once you know it runs and drives in gears strip it down and rebuilt it or sell it as is? Use the money for your other projects👍
The thing sticking out of the manifold is a therostatic choke. As the manifold heats up from the exhaust crossover. The spring in the well heats up and pulls on the choke linkage opening the choke.
Yikes ❗️😂🤷♀️
Now that the engine runs great all you have to do is repair all the other carnage from the last videos . Please moving forward go slow and think , some parts are irreplaceable . I myself had to learn the hard way .
Very good.!!! Excelent the Royal Lebaron 1965 👏👏👏👏👏👏
It wants to live! I say patch the exhaust, replace the hoses, tune up, oil change, brake service, and just cruise the thing. Its a little rubbing compound, wax and Mexican blanket interior away from being a sweet cruiser. I love this project!
It never gets old to see old iron come back to life🙏😁👍 I think you could get a thermal gasket for the eldabrock, they're bout 1/4in thick with nylon washers made into them. Probably take the carb just high nuff to clear. Thanks for sharing 👍 That engine will love a 750
when you dump a pint of gas down the intake you stand a good chance of flushing all the oil off the cylinders and that can cause the engine to try to bind,, I always just use some carb cleaner to prime the engine,, and no,, I am not an expert but I have tinkered with this old stuff for 50 years.
Or WD-40 would be really good to spray down into the cylinders because it would help loosen it up and then whatever is still in there it’ll just burn because that’s how you clean out plastic carburetors on newer motors is just spray a bunch of WD-40 down in there wait a few hours and then start it up and that’ll always loosen up the float and clean out the Jets
@@thehourglasswithaman I used to use wd-40 as starter fluid but I don't know if it even burns anymore after the government got involved in everyone's safety.
He was using 2-cycle gas at first.
@@MissouriOldTimer it does like three months ago I had to clean out the plastic carburetor on my mower and I didn’t have any compressed air at the time so I used WD-40 and then I went in behind it and used one of their specialist cans of electronic contact cleaner since it was thinner and basically a can of compressed air with a little bit of contact cleaner that quickly evaporates and I used like half a can of the WD-40 and maybe an eighth of a can of the contact cleaner because I used the base WD-40 once before trying to clean it out and it didn’t work because I didn’t take the air filter housing off so it didn’t get in the carb as well after the second time I took it outside and started it up and it burned all of that WD-40 because it looked like the mower had blown head gasket for like five minutes after me shutting it off and starting it again like five or 10 times
@@thehourglasswithaman I like to put a little Marvel Mystery oil in the gas I use to start these old engines. It helps lubricate the dry cylinder walls. Two cycle oil works too, but I prefer MMO.
Youre right. That thing with the lever is the choke actuator. Its thermostactically controlled by heat of the engine .
That is one cool Imperial! That would keep me busy for a long time.
I knew the beast would come alive! Nice job CT
Thanks dude!
You got jack stands back there running it in gear??? Gonna make a garage wall Imperial CT sandwich using all that safety....
Lost a good friend that way.
There's nothing wrong with that engine, change the oil, give it a tune up and either rebuild the carb or get a new one for it. And yes a new radiator too. Good job CT !
Good that you enjoy your work. Entertaining to watch.
Great CT, the Beast is alive, the Dragon carb solved the situation for awhile, so many issues to solve yet, you won this initial challenge and that means you are in a good track in this war, nice video again thanks
Ct alright man good to see the beast run. I love the see things run after all the years and it pops off really cool man 👍
MOPAR Beast , so badass it does burnouts on jackstands 😂, be careful , you have yet to tame it.
I got lucky on this one. No kicks to the face! It was like taming a wild horse! Stay tuned! =) HAHA
Yay the beast is alive and sounds pretty dang good.Great job man.You deserve this from all the sweat you put in to her.Looking forward to more videos.
Uaaaaaah ????? good thing you pulled that carb off ! that top gasket with the center gone that was under the original AFB carb was for a Rochester spread bore Q jet ! not a Carter AFB ---- lol rolling eyes
The hole in the back of the carburetor is the vacuum port for the brake booster.
Yeah and the one small one in front is vacuum advance for the timing
Hi CT, a good radiator shop can fix that old radiator. The tanks are made of brass not like the cheap plastic and aluminum ones we have today! They Can remove the tank straighten the big dent solder a patch on the hole and send you on your way! Get the original carburetor working. Thank You for bringing these videos to us! Cheers!
Thanks man! I will see if we have someone local that can fix it. =)
Nice to hear her run ct, I would rebuild the old carb, because all the linkage lines up, and she will purr and growl back to life.. 👍🤞
And now you know why there is a neutral position on the transmission
😂🤪😜👍🔥💤
I'm baffled by some of the comments about fixing the radiator with JB Weld. That's fine for junk, or if you're stuck on the side of the road. If an exact replacement radiator isn't available - it's not rocket science - find one with similar sizing and inlet and outlets and you're good - radiators are cheap. (Unless you have a close, personal relationship with a great radiator shop - of which I think about 3 exist in the US.) Your project has come a long way - I admire your effort.
That poor car.
Great to see it run! You still have a long way to go but take it one step at a time!
And the original carburetor that you just took off is a Carter Ave b650 a 750 will not hurt it you just have to adjust the air metering
That rod is a heat raise for automatic choke it's fine and that top gaskit is the wrong one
Glad to see it running. Rebuild the old carb. Get a new aftermarket radiator. Even if you could find an old guy that could patch that one, the metal is too old and brittle, it would just crack under pressure in another spot. (Don't ask how I know...).
ill start off with saying im not a mechanic, but what id do is turn the IAC screws out just a touch, a little will go a long way, as for the long rod going to the trans that might be the kick down linkage, i know the 904/727 toruqeflite have them running up to the the throttle linkage area, if it is then you can burn up the trans quick if not connected from what i hear
Carb needs 1 inch open spacer same pattern as second gasket. Lever is trans kickdown lever. Set so it is all the way open when carb is all the way open.
You are rebuilding cars and you don't know where to spray the fuel???? Sorry, but I am glad I ain't buying or getting my car serviced by you lot. Damn
Vice grip garage uses starting fluid all the time it's my favorite tool for starting old cars
See you guys have resurrected a car back from the grave. Keep doing what you guys do
I see the problem with your muffler, it needs a new car!!! God save the Queen!!!👑😖😫😣☺️😥😰😨
There could be blow-by, but there could also be disintegrated valve stem rubber seals. You can take one rocker/valve cover off and check to see if the valve stem seals are falling apart. Someone suggested checking compression. I would second that effort. If compression is good you are in pretty good shape with this engine.
Thanks Joe! That is great advice. I will check that this week.
Great car needs to be restored...I restored my 65 Chrysler New Yorker 'YOST". Now my daily
I love the sound of those old Mopar starters!
GREAT JOB CT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It’s alive. It’s Aliiiiive‼️ (followed by a mad scientist laugh) 😆 Send the radiator to a radiator repair shop, rebuild the original carb, run some engine flush & change the oil, use Sea Foam to clean out the combustion chambers and valves, flush the trans & change the filter and fluid, then go with that. It sounds like it should work. Keep it up CT.👍
Sounds like a plan! =) Thanks Michael!
That car is just awesome.
That cable with the spring on it is the kickdown. When you feed her the onions the drops out of overdrive.
Awesome job keep up the awesome work!
This thing seems like a Solid Car... Trans works... Fresh plugs and plug wires too
Green Hornet black beauty
We have a 1973 Cadillac that sounds just like that
The Imperial HAS AN AUTOMATIC CHOKE. That device that is mounted in the intake manifold with a lever connecting to the carburetor is the thermostatic choke. When you remove the two bolts that attach it to the manifold, you will find a thermostatic spring with a wheel and pointer you move it one way to richens the choke setting and the opposite way to lean out the choke. It was used on all of the 1965 MOPAR products. The carburetor is likely a Carter Aluminum Four Barrel (AFB). The Carter AFB is a very easy carburetor to rebuild and the rebuild kit should still be available.
Two similar application of the same concept:
1. Take the radiator out and have it rebuilt . It looks like only the bottom tank needs to be patched. It probably doesn't even need a new core. You will NEVER find an aluminum one that fits the width, height, brackets, mounting holes, fan shroud, and most of all, the trans cooler lines for less than 5 times the money , time, and effort of fixing the original one.
You can't do it yourself with home tools. It needs to go to a radiator shop.
2. Rebuild the carb that came on it. Better yet have it rebuilt. You will NEVER overcome all the obstacles to getting the big 1411 to work on the iron intake for less than than 5 times the money , time, and effort of fixing the original one. To use a spacer, you need taller studs, probably.
How are you going to block off the choke well? That is an exhaust leak since exhaust runs through it. You may need the brackets for the throttle stud. Are you going to find a new air cleaner BASE (can use the original top) off a 68 or 69 440 Chrysler?
Don't grind the intake for clearance. That's how I ruined an iron intake in 1980.
You could put an Edelbrock Peformer intake on it. No performance advantage but it will fit with an aftermarket carb better. It will not work with the automatic choke on the old carb, though.
Well that number on the old carb is for a 1967 383 automatic. I'm not sure the 65 would have the choke pull off. but they are mostly the same or identical. Likely that's what a previous owner got when he bought a replacement rebuild at the parts store years ago. I checked and I can see you don't have a 383 engine. Don't sweat it. It isn't the "wrong carb."
I found service manuals used and new on Ebay for 65 Chrysler for 20 to 50 dollars.
I'd have one overnighted if possible.
You can also consider a 65 parts book.
Like everyone else said, you shouldn't jack the car up by the center section. I have seen mechanics do it. (on customer cars not their own). Bad for the rear axle and of course safety as everyone has said.
Put a vacuum tube on the distributor vacuum advance and suck hard on it.
It is important to know if it is 1. Stuck 2 . Leaking and not working, 3. advancing the timing... you should hear it snap back when you release the vacuum. You can take the cap off and look. When the idle improved, it could because the static timing was retarded.
Or it could be because the carb was too rich and the vacuum leak helped a little.
Why don't you clean the plugs, check the gap, and reinstall. Use the new plugs later.
Put a timing light on it.
I didn't see blowby from the valve cover or any bad color smoke at all out the tailpipe.
I don't know how to contact you but feel free to call me. Email me at gmail for my phone number.
I have three 65's.
That big vacuum port on the carb front is to the PCV valve, and the vacuum line off the side of the carb is to the vacuum advance on the distributor. If you decide to rebuild the distributor, remember that the high-top engines (the RB's) have a longer drive shaft than the B's and A's - and you cannot use internal parts from an A (273 - 318 - 340 - 360) in a B / RB distributor, or vice versa. Oh, they'll fit - and they'll provide spark - but the A distributor turns the opposite direction from the B / RB, so your advances (centrifugal and vacuum) will retard the spark instead.
this guy should go back to school for automotive basics
Or at least read the comprehensive instructions included with the Edelbrock Carb. A 750 is way too big for that engine. Edelbrock make a 500cfm. I think its a model number 1402. Plus he doesn't even seem to know what a kick down lever is on the auto!
@@martinevans3014 yep 750 cfm MINIMUM, could go to an 850
WOW, she sounds so good.
I also love the idea of rebuilding the dragons carburetor.
Excellent video CT :) also that motor sound like in good condition plus transmission in gear that first also let start usually P or Neutral spots only and Axle are working excellent too! I get say that choke part trying figure is called Heat Riser does when motor warn bring high idle down to low idle after warm from cold starts adjusting itself on choke front 2 barrels on top plus bottom and yes hook live wire of starter or switch by battery if want too! Also that other throttle section cable is transmission kick up also down on gears plus opens 4 barrels for carb to get fuel when past someone plus when get passed vehicles bring idle back when releasing gas pedal to speed want be ! Like Shift Kit in Transmission give more speed in a Automatic transmission plus gear in Forward don't need shift out Overdrive to 3 gear stay gear need and don't over rev engine! But would check on carb if get one like old is if can't get old old carb rebuild kits ! Plus spacers on crab help to lots and usefull but seal up with high temperatures silicone or gasket mender glue ! Check on recore rad or rebuilt ones even brand new compare cost by Rock Auto or NAPA or local rad shops near to on $ prices! Plus Water Pump plus Thermostat plus gas also new engine belts! Plus Change Engine Oil plus Oil Filter too even Sparkplug Wires plus Cap also Rotor even even new Coil too fuel Filter also air filter too! Put a brand black of bottle of Gunk Red Seal called Trans-Medic in transmission run thru ! New rad hose plus fuel tank also gauge too plus lines to!
Its a Runner CT Dump the oil. Fix the Radiator hole with anything if you can first so you can flush the Block with old radiator. Remove the Thermostat Leave it out at first while you flush the block Check freeze plugs.New Cap. Plug wires and Rotor. Rebuild stock Carburetor Exhaust repair. Then get back to Rusty ok
Congrats guys! And it runs very good too.
when it's flooded hold the accelerator wide open while cranking on it so it can get air.
Needle & seat was stuck from sitting, should have tapped the top of the carb to free them up .
old choke is a bimetallic switch choke is on when cold when the engine warms it expands and pulls the choke off. as for the rest fit a spacer give it a service and a new rad and let her rip
At about 16:00, that thing is what we used to call a "choke stove". It is made to open the choke when engine is hot enough to run without a choke. You will have a big exhaust leak should you decide to remove it. Easy enough, just make a steel plate to block it off. The first gasket is actually made for a Rochester Quadrajet carb. Tiny primary venturi and huge secondary. Best known in the day for not to be stopped leaking after service. Chrysler never used them as far as I can determine. The vacuum hose to the distributor connects to ported vacuum (above the butter flies) connection. The Edelbrock (AFB) carb should work fine, as the original for the car was no doubt a Carter AFB. The big vacuum port is probably for the brake booster.
Thanks Neil!
It might not have much left of the body but the engine purr like big cat. Nice work on it.👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍 it sounds pretty good!
J A C K L E G
My stepfather had the exact same car and I used to keep it service stuff for him
I think you have a good engine CT no knocking or valve train noise at all . If it were mine I think I would rebuild the original carb and go with that one.
Thanks Paul! Yes, it sounds pretty good.
Yes finaly👌😎
Edelbrock are great👍
That "beast" as you call it is worth everything you put into it! After you hook up the one vacuum line, then it sounded really great' These were magnificent cars..... thanks for the interesting video.....hope to see you guys driving her again!!!!!
Thanks Arthur! Yes, it sounds way better with the vacuum on the distributor. Thank you! =)
Thanks John! I will take a closer look at it this week.
@@CTmoog I miss your dragon videos
Rebuild the original carb and DRIVE IT....
Agreed ,, everything lines up on it and the Carter AFB is a better carb then the WCFB .
@@hydroy1 Yea meant for the car. Honestly Easy rebuild too.
@@Mikefngarage Carter AFB ---- made to be rebuilt simple , they had them on just about everything , GM, Mopar & Ford And if one was not enough , they put TWO !
@@hydroy1 good carbs...I also like the The Q jet once you seal the leaking plugs. they work really well for small blocks. I have built some pretty fast engines with q jets. I put the rods on the secondary's from a 455 the vacuum secondary's get you pretty good MPG. until you floor it and hear that deep throat sound. That sucker comes alive. built some fast small blocks. 283 350 400 that would set you back in the seat. I remember the 283 in the 64 el camino that would make your head hit the glass when you floored it if you weren't careful as soon as you hit the secondary's . Car RIPPED.
@@Mikefngarage Q jets work great but many don't know there are a few different sizes 625cfm,650cfm and a 850cfm that only came on the 70/71 Buick 455 GS stage II !( Some say the 501 Caddy also had a 850, but I never found one under a Caddy ) Another great carb ( after you get use to them ) is that crazy plastic center Carter Themoquad. They also had different sizes T quads from 625cfm all the way up to the bad boy competition series 1,000cfm 4747SA & the 4848SA veeeery rare but oh brother--- what a MONSTER ! on a big block anything. You nail them secondary's you better be ready ----- this sucker is going plum sideways on yeah like right now ! even with 13 inch wide slicks !! I had really good luck with them T quads for drag racing, but there not for the weak of hart Iam tellin yeah ! ever been sideways over 120mph and still pulling like crazy ! ohhhhh MAN ! ----- Come on sweethart PLEASE straightin up here a might ! , there going to send us back to tech ! lol . You get out of the car, and look, your hands are shakin ! yep , that there was a ride !
It would be great if you posted a pic of the data plate for this car which should be in the engine compartment. Then we could learn more about this car.
Data plate for the Imperial is above the VIN plate on the A-post, near the door hinge
I would recommend to rebuild the old original carb.
Similar and proper are totally different! Just get a rebuild kit!! Come on CT !!!!
Anytime your dealing with a engine that hasn't been running like this one had it will take a tole on the battery as well as the starter along that's probably why the battery cable is getting hot
Sounds beastly !
NIce, Mr. CT. Seems trying to roar, but be careful with gears, unless you're looking for some extra garage vent hole... =o With old machines, the first thing you need to check are gaskets and rubbers, as those deteriorate in time. Gaskets, hoses, brake line hoses... Then if it works, check filters and similar low cost stuff. If you want to revive a machine, it won't be for free at all. =)
Keep on, many folks are watching you...
7:56 SHE'S ALIVEEEEEEE!!!!!!! 💪⚡
What a difference a carb makes. Fix the linkage on tranny soon also the exhaust and new radiator. Getting there.
وأخيراً تم تشغيلها ♥
Its alive sweet , well done
I would of change oil filter first
Your local auto parts store should stock an adapter plate that works for the carb. I'm not sure what size engine you have but if it's a big block, the 750 cfm should work but if cubic inches are below 400, it might do better with a 600 or 650 cfm. The bore pattern on your Edelbrock carb you have there should be square bore because the primaries and secondaries are pretty much the same size. If the primariy bores are significantly smaller than the secondaries, you would have a spread bore. If you get a spacer plate for a square bore 4 barrel carb, you should be just fine. With the right spacer/adapter plate, you could mount just about any carburetor on an engine. I once mounted a GM quadrajet on a Ford 390. I bolted a spread bore spacer to the sqare bore manifold and bolted the q-jet to the plate because the holes didn't line up for studs. I know to many that's sacrilege but don't worry, the GM carb eventually came off. Good luck.
Good job 👍👍👍
Wow good job 👏
Glad to herw about the dragon. I also say rebuild the carburetor
Get a adapter kit for the carb. And also a tuning kit and fix the rad. she's a runner then take her to a demolition derby!☺️
Fuck the derby
Rebuild the original carter AFB or send it out to be rebuilt as everything is correct for it right down to the choke shove ( thats what they call that spring in the intake to the choke ) The screw next to the throttle arm on the new carb is the idle screw, crank it in until the rpm comes up to 850+ rpm as your not getting good oil pressure at stall rpm. How far are you from West Palm Fl.?
Heat cycle the engine several times. The blow by might go away. Sitting = sticking. She might self fix?
yeah let it warm up and a lot of times those lifters and rings will come around a bit.
@@Hobodeluxe960 A QT. of Marvel Misery oil in the crankcase for a hour or two running, then a oil change with new Wix filter and bottle of Lucus Zink additive and a bottle of Hy-per-lube in the crankcase should do the trick for rings & lifters, along with new points , plugs, cap & rotor with new wires now that he has a runner. That old 440 should serve him well. As for the car , Man, I duno ????? $$$$$$$ to get everything working as it has power everything currently not working.
ViceGripGarage would just feed it a bottle of Berrymans and let her self-tune. LOL
@@Night56Owl lol , yep ViceGripGarage I don't know --- Derek what a piece of work he is lol . Buy a dead car ( and I mean reeeeally dead ! for a very long time ) looking mighty sad , , kind of patch it, ---- then drive it through a half a dozen states with a BIG hole in the windshield !!!! and spider cracks all over the place ( OMG law enforcement would jail him and tow the car ) Then get with in a mile of home 3 days late , ------ and not make it ! $@*!%&! OH R A T S !!!! MY KIND OF LUCK ! Got to love his adventurers on the road . Now THAT is MY KIND of entertainment by god ! He should name his new cars ! like , OMG ! or NEVER going to make it ! , or oh good god no !, needs help, big mess, hoooly smokes ! RUN AWAY ! no brakes no problem ! and so on !
@@hydroy1 Yeah. In California you would not even make it to the end of the street without getting ticketed and towed without a current tag and insurance.
The Distributors vacuum advance goes to the port that is on the passenger side of the carburetor. And you plug the small port on the driver side or use it to power vacuum accessories
That big thing with a spring on it is a transmission kickdown that kicked it in the passing gear
I was taught that the peice that you took off of the intake manifold is the choke thermostat
You were taught correctly 😎🇺🇸
Bravo !
From France
Brother that large vacuum should be for the PCV valve. These old Mopars are sensitive to flooding so watch how much fuel you add. The back plug is your brake booster line.
It's called a choke thermostat.
It's a bi-metal pinion spring that heats up and expands from conduction and opens up the choke as the engine warms up. If it's not broke, don't fix it until you know you can get a replacement before taking it out to service.
Yes absolutely and I would highly recommend using the new style carburetor your engine will thank you for it
Sounds like Christine idling after a good kill lol 🤣🤣🤣🤣
The beast is alive👍
🐌 ~ 'Car's got a lotta pickup...'
🐌 ~ "It's got a cop motor, a 440 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks. It's a model made before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas..."
🐌 ~ 'fix the cigarette lighter...'
413 in 1965