I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
I don’t know if anyone mentioned it but for the t-slot access after a build is done for additions or removals, 80/20 and other alumni extrusion companies make special roll-in, drop-in, and quarter turn t-nuts. They are designed to specifically mount from the face top Edit: I misunderstood that. However I think they make tools that do the same. Your jig is a great workaround to a common problem with slotted parts
The 80/20n system is based on the premise of the RTA systems analogy. The amount of custom milling, filing, sanding and prep has certainly proved that any system can be breached. Lovethedesign...
your idea of using the CNC to open a larger groove to accept fasteners later on is amazing!!! I have done alot of aluminum works but have never thought of that!
To get clamp access at the 4:00 mark, why not cut a groove across the other side of the butt joint? Then you could clamp near corners in both directions? I like how the panels slide into the 80-20.
Your panels that were routed so it can be slotted into the aluminum grooves, i would like to do after watching. a 45 degree notch out is such a great idea to avoid the connection joint.
One thing I never understand is the tiny casters on everything. Don’t get me wrong - I think wheels are great! But I’d take large, even rubber wheels over tiny casters any day.
8 Woodworking Tips to Boost Your Efficiency Posting We’ve all heard the adage: work smarter, not harder. It makes good sense, so here are eight woodworking tips to make your shop work easier and more efficient: 1 - Sanding made easier Sanding woodwork by hand may seem like a chore, but with special tools and high-quality sandpaper, you’ll get excellent results that often outshine a power sander. Besides, it’s quieter, doesn’t produce clouds of dust, and may get into places power sanders can’t. Use a sanding block for faster, more efficient results. It distributes sanding pressure more evenly and maintains a flatter surface than merely folding a piece of sandpaper. Also, change sandpaper often. Sand with the grain of the wood, especially for the final grits. To remove deep scratches and stains, angle across the grain up to about 45º for the first sanding. Before moving to the next finer grit, sand with the grain to remove all cross-grain scratches. For sanding painted surfaces, buy clog-resistant sandpaper. The paint will build up slower than on standard sandpaper. 2 - Avoid drywall screws for woodworking When screwing two pieces of wood together, use the traditional wood screw over the drywall screw for better results. A drywall screw is threaded the full length. Since the top threads tend to grip the first board it enters, this can force two pieces of wood apart slightly because you have threads in both boards. The top part of a wood screw, on the other hand, has a smooth shank that won’t grip the first board. This makes it easier to clamp two pieces of wood together. There’s another reason to avoid drywall screws: The hardened, brittle steel shafts of drywall screws will often break during installation, especially when screwed into hardwoods. Removing them from a finished material is nearly impossible and getting them out damages the surface. Wood screws are made of thicker, softer metal, so they’re break-resistant. Wood screws do, however, require you drill: A pilot hole for the threads A wider counterbore hole the length of the non-threaded shaft A countersink hole for setting the head However, you can easily handle all three drilling chores by buying a set of three countersinking bits. They handle most common screw sizes. 3 - Know your wood’s moisture content When building with wood, you must know the correct moisture content of each piece of wood. Too dry, and the finished product may swell or crack. Too moist, and the end product may shrink or warp. It’s no wonder experts say incorrect moisture causes 80% of all woodworking problems. Therefore, it’s critical to know the moisture content of each piece of wood before it is used. For instance, if you’re planning an inlay job using two different species of wood, you’ll need to know the moisture content of each type so that your inlay glue joints stay intact. A failsafe way to avoid a ruined project is to use a moisture meter. 4 - Prevent excess glue stains To eliminate stains caused by oozing glue along joints, clamp the pieces together without glue. Apply masking tape over the joint and then cut it with a utility knife. Next, separate the pieces, apply the glue, and clamp them together again. The glue will ooze onto the tape, not the wood. Remove the tape before the glue dries. 5 - Measure with a drafting square Make accurate measuring and marking layouts on boards faster and easier with a drafting square - available at any art supply store. When you need an accurate square in the 2- to 3-foot range, drafting squares beat the cumbersome drywall squares for accuracy and eliminate the hassle of hooking up a carpenter square. 6 - Keep a clean, orderly workspace Achieving efficiency in your shop can sometimes be as simple as clearing clutter from your work area. A disorderly work area can hinder your productivity. Another tip: Only keep out items that you use daily. Everything else should be put in designated areas so they’re quickly retrievable when needed. 7 - Keep a well-lit shop Pay special attention to lighting. You should have consistent and ample illumination on all work areas so you can work from any angle without casting shadows. This ensures safety and productivity. Consider: Overhead lighting Focused lighting On-tool lights Painting walls and the ceiling white can help diffuse the light. 8 - Keep your blades sharp Dull tools such as chisels, blades, planes, scrapers and gouges don’t cut cleanly. They tear at the wood fibers resulting in a fuzzy, uneven, unprofessional look. Tools that have been chipped or nicked require grinding. A bench grinder, wet grinder, or even a belt sander can be used. Avoid letting your tool get too hot when using a bench grinder or belt sander to prevent it from losing temper. Dipping it in a pan of cool water every few seconds will help. After grinding, proceed to honing using either a flat wet stone or oil stone. A wet stone is preferred when doing fine woodworking. The final step is polishing using a fine wet stone, a stropping wheel or leather. Tools with sharper blades make woodworking easier, more efficient, and safer. Closing comments… Achieving efficiency in your shop won’t just improve your productivity and help you work faster and easier, it’ll also make you feel accomplished and more satisfied. kamelohy90.systeme.io/1567d1b8
FYI, the only fouled carbide bit is a broken bit. If you weld it or otherwise get a buildup of aluminum on the tool, hydroxides are your friends. Muriatic acid also does the job.
do you happened to have the template / jig for the extrusion slotting for the long side to accept the clamps? Also, can you please link the castors that you are using. This is my first time woodworking, but your effort looks classy just like those cars you have in the back.
I'm currently building a table similiar to this. I am using the same casters that you are. Where did you get those caster mount plates? Those would make everything so much easier.
Hi, I'm just finishing the previous version of Systainer Cart, I really like it. The new Workbench will be very demanding and precise, I look forward to continuing.
Love the video. I’m curious about your table saw rip fence. It appears to be an 80/20 extrusion also. If so how is it attached /shimmed? Only saw it briefly but looks like an old craftsman saw like mine. I am thinking of adapting 80/20 as a fence/rail system using their linear bearings. Thanks you in advance for any tips you can give
Hey man, great video. I’m here because I had the same idea to use 80/20 for the top frame and a plywood only base. My main motivation was to ensure I had a dead flat top. Can you comment on flatness please? Any sagging at all? Thanks and keep up the good work!
There's no sagging at all... and I'm hoping that doesn't develop. I designed it thinking about support for the MDF. Right now, it's as flat as I can measure.
I was wondering why you didn’t just mill out a slot in the perpendicular 80/20? Would that compromise the corner strength since you would mill through both shoulders?
love this build, and I am going to do the same in my garage workshop, are those footmaster castors ? also can you share where you got the extra fixing plate for them that fits to the 8020 profile to then fit the castor into ?
I really like this project and all the videos that you have done about it. I am currently planning to build a similar work bench like you. No i wonder which aluminium profiles i should use. I am located in europe but the profiles you used seems like our 40x40mm or 80x40mm ones. I can buy them in multiple versions - i think you used the "light / normal" one - is this correct? does that work for you? They are also available in "heavy" - have you thought about using the heavy ones?
I loved your previous systainer workbench, why the need for a larger one? Just need more space for workpieces and systainers? I'm looking to do a 3x6 version similar to your first build, so just looking for your experiences with your previous build and things you didn't like. Thanks!
I've loved my systainer cart... It's been the most used tool in my shop over the past couple of years. And I don't know if I will get rid of it with the addition of this bench. However, this bench is incredibly more functional simply due to the square footage of it. I can process full sheets of plywood, have almost unlimited rip and crosscut capacity, and the storage space is nuts. I'm building in a few more things you'll see in part 2 as well...
The Garage Journal looking forward to part 2. I’m not a car guy, but love and share your approach to tools and the shared hatred for dust. Thanks for the reply as well!
Amazing build! Curious if your using 40series or 15series couldn't you just use a single bolt (5/16- 18 button) in the end of the 80/20 and then drill your access hole in the other piece to tighten once you have slide it into place? instead of using the 80/20 clip/bolt connector. Also do you have a CNC file for the jig you made to machine the 80/20 for clamp access
Hi there, I'm really inspired by your design and right now thinking about using these aluminum profiles for the base as well. I was also wondering how to get clamps and hardware in through the butt-joints. Your method looks interesting, but I wonder if you don't loose some clamping space from the very long slots. Hod do they work for you? Did you thing about milling an opening through the other bar that's blocking your profile (like a crossing?)
Really Great Job, i love your Projekt and Style...Does you have some Plans (Part List) from your mft? You will have a Abo from me....Many greatings from Germany Oliver
Love it, the channel is awesome as well. Would it have been easier to “cross cut’ a slot in the other extrusion on the 4’ end? This would have given you the same access with much less routing. This is not criticism in any way just something I thought of while watching the build. The table is awesome and your channel is one of my favs!
All Festool tools, Systainers, Lista cabinets, 80/20, etc.... Obviously something is going on here that bleeds cash. It always makes me wonder where all this money is coming from for these channels. Not that there's anything wrong with having nice things but this is difficult to watch with all that in the background. A long time ago there was Norms show where he had a ton of very expensive machines that sponsors and the PBS affiliate provided but if you were a fan of the show he had a ton of hand tools and such that were old and well earned. If I wanted to watch those type of productions I will set my DVR. Otherwise, Good luck.....
rlhanks Oh shit man. I’m sorry. Didn’t mean at all to trigger ya. I make these videos for the process of it... I don’t make any money doing it and I bought everything you see with my own hard earned money. Thanks for giving it a shot though!
![เปิดบ้าน โคตรสวย ป๋องกพล รู้จักตั้งนาน เพิ่งรู้ว่ารวย!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tmgCF_2HfYI/mqdefault.jpg)
I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
I don’t know if anyone mentioned it but for the t-slot access after a build is done for additions or removals, 80/20 and other alumni extrusion companies make special roll-in, drop-in, and quarter turn t-nuts. They are designed to specifically mount from the face top
Edit: I misunderstood that. However I think they make tools that do the same.
Your jig is a great workaround to a common problem with slotted parts
The 80/20n system is based on the premise of the RTA systems analogy. The amount of custom milling, filing, sanding and prep has certainly proved that any system can be breached. Lovethedesign...
your idea of using the CNC to open a larger groove to accept fasteners later on is amazing!!! I have done alot of aluminum works but have never thought of that!
I understood what you were talking about re: Sachs . Nailed it
To get clamp access at the 4:00 mark, why not cut a groove across the other side of the butt joint? Then you could clamp near corners in both directions? I like how the panels slide into the 80-20.
Your panels that were routed so it can be slotted into the aluminum grooves, i would like to do after watching. a 45 degree notch out is such a great idea to avoid the connection joint.
One thing I never understand is the tiny casters on everything. Don’t get me wrong - I think wheels are great! But I’d take large, even rubber wheels over tiny casters any day.
8 Woodworking Tips to Boost Your Efficiency
Posting
We’ve all heard the adage: work smarter, not harder. It makes good sense, so here are eight woodworking tips to make your shop work easier and more efficient:
1 - Sanding made easier
Sanding woodwork by hand may seem like a chore, but with special tools and high-quality sandpaper, you’ll get excellent results that often outshine a power sander. Besides, it’s quieter, doesn’t produce clouds of dust, and may get into places power sanders can’t.
Use a sanding block for faster, more efficient results. It distributes sanding pressure more evenly and maintains a flatter surface than merely folding a piece of sandpaper. Also, change sandpaper often.
Sand with the grain of the wood, especially for the final grits. To remove deep scratches and stains, angle across the grain up to about 45º for the first sanding. Before moving to the next finer grit, sand with the grain to remove all cross-grain scratches.
For sanding painted surfaces, buy clog-resistant sandpaper. The paint will build up slower than on standard sandpaper.
2 - Avoid drywall screws for woodworking
When screwing two pieces of wood together, use the traditional wood screw over the drywall screw for better results.
A drywall screw is threaded the full length. Since the top threads tend to grip the first board it enters, this can force two pieces of wood apart slightly because you have threads in both boards.
The top part of a wood screw, on the other hand, has a smooth shank that won’t grip the first board. This makes it easier to clamp two pieces of wood together.
There’s another reason to avoid drywall screws: The hardened, brittle steel shafts of drywall screws will often break during installation, especially when screwed into hardwoods. Removing them from a finished material is nearly impossible and getting them out damages the surface.
Wood screws are made of thicker, softer metal, so they’re break-resistant.
Wood screws do, however, require you drill:
A pilot hole for the threads
A wider counterbore hole the length of the non-threaded shaft
A countersink hole for setting the head
However, you can easily handle all three drilling chores by buying a set of three countersinking bits. They handle most common screw sizes.
3 - Know your wood’s moisture content
When building with wood, you must know the correct moisture content of each piece of wood.
Too dry, and the finished product may swell or crack. Too moist, and the end product may shrink or warp. It’s no wonder experts say incorrect moisture causes 80% of all woodworking problems.
Therefore, it’s critical to know the moisture content of each piece of wood before it is used. For instance, if you’re planning an inlay job using two different species of wood, you’ll need to know the moisture content of each type so that your inlay glue joints stay intact.
A failsafe way to avoid a ruined project is to use a moisture meter.
4 - Prevent excess glue stains
To eliminate stains caused by oozing glue along joints, clamp the pieces together without glue. Apply masking tape over the joint and then cut it with a utility knife.
Next, separate the pieces, apply the glue, and clamp them together again. The glue will ooze onto the tape, not the wood. Remove the tape before the glue dries.
5 - Measure with a drafting square
Make accurate measuring and marking layouts on boards faster and easier with a drafting square - available at any art supply store.
When you need an accurate square in the 2- to 3-foot range, drafting squares beat the cumbersome drywall squares for accuracy and eliminate the hassle of hooking up a carpenter square.
6 - Keep a clean, orderly workspace
Achieving efficiency in your shop can sometimes be as simple as clearing clutter from your work area. A disorderly work area can hinder your productivity.
Another tip: Only keep out items that you use daily. Everything else should be put in designated areas so they’re quickly retrievable when needed.
7 - Keep a well-lit shop
Pay special attention to lighting. You should have consistent and ample illumination on all work areas so you can work from any angle without casting shadows. This ensures safety and productivity.
Consider:
Overhead lighting
Focused lighting
On-tool lights
Painting walls and the ceiling white can help diffuse the light.
8 - Keep your blades sharp
Dull tools such as chisels, blades, planes, scrapers and gouges don’t cut cleanly. They tear at the wood fibers resulting in a fuzzy, uneven, unprofessional look.
Tools that have been chipped or nicked require grinding. A bench grinder, wet grinder, or even a belt sander can be used.
Avoid letting your tool get too hot when using a bench grinder or belt sander to prevent it from losing temper. Dipping it in a pan of cool water every few seconds will help.
After grinding, proceed to honing using either a flat wet stone or oil stone. A wet stone is preferred when doing fine woodworking.
The final step is polishing using a fine wet stone, a stropping wheel or leather.
Tools with sharper blades make woodworking easier, more efficient, and safer.
Closing comments…
Achieving efficiency in your shop won’t just improve your productivity and help you work faster and easier, it’ll also make you feel accomplished and more satisfied.
kamelohy90.systeme.io/1567d1b8
First vid of course I've watched - great job! And thanks for introducing me to Tom Sachs.
FYI, the only fouled carbide bit is a broken bit. If you weld it or otherwise get a buildup of aluminum on the tool, hydroxides are your friends. Muriatic acid also does the job.
Really really nice videos and one of the best benches out there in my opinion
Nothing wrong with cosplay nerds in my woodworking book... Nice bench!
That adaptation to allow clamps and such on the profile is awesome! I may have to steal that idea…
Beautiful job brother!
do you happened to have the template / jig for the extrusion slotting for the long side to accept the clamps?
Also, can you please link the castors that you are using.
This is my first time woodworking, but your effort looks classy just like those cars you have in the back.
This is going to be great! Excited to see it come along with part 2!
I'm currently building a table similiar to this. I am using the same casters that you are. Where did you get those caster mount plates? Those would make everything so much easier.
Hi, I'm just finishing the previous version of Systainer Cart, I really like it. The new Workbench will be very demanding and precise, I look forward to continuing.
Great vid
Love the video. I’m curious about your table saw rip fence. It appears to be an 80/20 extrusion also. If so how is it attached /shimmed? Only saw it briefly but looks like an old craftsman saw like mine. I am thinking of adapting 80/20 as a fence/rail system using their linear bearings. Thanks you in advance for any tips you can give
Hey man, great video. I’m here because I had the same idea to use 80/20 for the top frame and a plywood only base. My main motivation was to ensure I had a dead flat top. Can you comment on flatness please? Any sagging at all? Thanks and keep up the good work!
There's no sagging at all... and I'm hoping that doesn't develop. I designed it thinking about support for the MDF. Right now, it's as flat as I can measure.
Awesome and well built work bench. Would you happen to sell the jig you made with your CNC to router the ends to have access to the T-slot?
I was wondering why you didn’t just mill out a slot in the perpendicular 80/20? Would that compromise the corner strength since you would mill through both shoulders?
love this build, and I am going to do the same in my garage workshop, are those footmaster castors ? also can you share where you got the extra fixing plate for them that fits to the 8020 profile to then fit the castor into ?
Hi can you tell me what series 80/20 you used for the top Chanel with the two t slots and for the rest of the project?
anyway to get these plans? also its not a dado on the edge its a rabbet
Good day! You have a detailed drawing of the aluminum profile. I can't find the right one for Festool clips.
I really like this project and all the videos that you have done about it. I am currently planning to build a similar work bench like you. No i wonder which aluminium profiles i should use. I am located in europe but the profiles you used seems like our 40x40mm or 80x40mm ones. I can buy them in multiple versions - i think you used the "light / normal" one - is this correct? does that work for you? They are also available in "heavy" - have you thought about using the heavy ones?
Great work - curious how it all turns out!
I loved your previous systainer workbench, why the need for a larger one? Just need more space for workpieces and systainers? I'm looking to do a 3x6 version similar to your first build, so just looking for your experiences with your previous build and things you didn't like. Thanks!
I've loved my systainer cart... It's been the most used tool in my shop over the past couple of years. And I don't know if I will get rid of it with the addition of this bench. However, this bench is incredibly more functional simply due to the square footage of it. I can process full sheets of plywood, have almost unlimited rip and crosscut capacity, and the storage space is nuts. I'm building in a few more things you'll see in part 2 as well...
The Garage Journal looking forward to part 2. I’m not a car guy, but love and share your approach to tools and the shared hatred for dust. Thanks for the reply as well!
What does BF stand for ?
Amazing build! Curious if your using 40series or 15series couldn't you just use a single bolt (5/16- 18 button) in the end of the 80/20 and then drill your access hole in the other piece to tighten once you have slide it into place? instead of using the 80/20 clip/bolt connector. Also do you have a CNC file for the jig you made to machine the 80/20 for clamp access
which version of 8020 did you use for the top section (the wider section)
What software did you do your design in?
Mostly pen and paper… for the video, I made a half assed sketch up file.
are you willing to share your sketchup file?! I'd like to tinker with this in the software
Hello, I like what you're building. What 80/20 profile is that? If you mentioned it in the video it flew past me. Is it 1 1/2" or 2"?
He mentioned the frame was 40 series at 3:32, I missed it too the first time around! It appears to be 40-4040 Lite.
Hi there, I'm really inspired by your design and right now thinking about using these aluminum profiles for the base as well.
I was also wondering how to get clamps and hardware in through the butt-joints. Your method looks interesting, but I wonder if you don't loose some clamping space from the very long slots. Hod do they work for you?
Did you thing about milling an opening through the other bar that's blocking your profile (like a crossing?)
Really Great Job, i love your Projekt and Style...Does you have some Plans (Part List) from your mft? You will have a Abo from me....Many greatings from Germany Oliver
Love it, the channel is awesome as well. Would it have been easier to “cross cut’ a slot in the other extrusion on the 4’ end? This would have given you the same access with much less routing. This is not criticism in any way just something I thought of while watching the build. The table is awesome and your channel is one of my favs!
Rick Noblett I planned on doing that initially, but there’s a ton of load on the perimeter 80/20 and I didn’t want to take any chances.
Ahh ok that makes sense - can’t wait for part 2!
The Jalopy Journal I used the 15 series 3030 extrusions on mine
God forbid you come off as a workshop cosplay nerd enjoying your craft..
BOOMER!!!
Jace Wakefield SOONER!
All Festool tools, Systainers, Lista cabinets, 80/20, etc.... Obviously something is going on here that bleeds cash. It always makes me wonder where all this money is coming from for these channels. Not that there's anything wrong with having nice things but this is difficult to watch with all that in the background. A long time ago there was Norms show where he had a ton of very expensive machines that sponsors and the PBS affiliate provided but if you were a fan of the show he had a ton of hand tools and such that were old and well earned. If I wanted to watch those type of productions I will set my DVR. Otherwise, Good luck.....
rlhanks Oh shit man. I’m sorry. Didn’t mean at all to trigger ya. I make these videos for the process of it... I don’t make any money doing it and I bought everything you see with my own hard earned money. Thanks for giving it a shot though!