I know this is an old video and you might never see this, however I wanted to thank you for the video. I’ve been reloading 30 years, and most of that time I’ve used a 10-10 to measure my loads. Last year I purchased a Redding 10x competition pistol measure (man, is that well worth the $) and recently I noticed I was getting some small, but unusual variations in zeroing the scale. All it needed was a good cleaning (as you suggested) and it’s now back to its reliable self. Thanks again.
Just bought a used Lyman D-5 and was very disappointed when it arrived and seed to be drastically off. Then found your video. Low and behold the pan base was EMPTY! Now I can fix 'er up!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
In the first part of this video, you are actually talking about zeroing the scale. Calibration is setting your scale's output to match a known weight. That is what the check weights are for. And I believe that the 250 check weight that you refer to is to add capacity to the scale; you place that weight on the hook near the pointer end of the scale. This will increase the capacity of the scale by some amount that is stated in the manual.
These are old scales. They haven't been made for decades. The lead shot oxidizes and this changes its weight. I have found that I have to add a little bit of lead shot to re-calibrate. Try taking a piece of lead birdshot and crushing it with pliers. Then use scissors to cut off small pieces to ad to the scale pan hanger to get back to zero. Yes, use check weights to be accurate.
Did you read the directions that came with the scale? Calibrating is done with the adjustment screw at the base.The weighted pan is a factory calibration and should never be changed!!!
On the older ohaus scales it is recommended in the instructions to level the base of the scale, place the beam in the agate bearing pivots with an empty pan support and pan then add weight to the pan until the scale is zeroed. When zeroed put the non-magnetic material used you inside the pan support. Most Newer scales come calibrated from the factory to balance at an angle. Not sure why...but I have noticed increased repeatability just by adjusting weight in the support hanger so the beam is level when the pan in on and adjust the base to zero to where it rests.
Yes. I see i missed an important piece of information in my video. I will go back and correct this asap. 1. The scale needs to be level 2. There is the adjustment screw 3. Added wt must be non magnetic
Thank you for showing us how NOT to calibrate a 10-10 scale! Calibrating is done on the poise of the 10-10 by adding or removing material. usually it is fine the way it is. But IF you have to calibrate it, make sure the scale is leveled 100%, knives and pivots are clean. The knives should not have any burrs! Then move the poise in increments of 50gn and write down what you read. Go all the way up to 500gn. If done, you have an idea what your scale really shows and where it begins to show an offset. Usually I move the poise to 300gn and add or remove weight at the back of the poise to get it leveled at 300gn. This will reduce the error significantly and your 10-10 is tuned. Now repeat the steps and check in 50gn increments and enjoy a calibrated 10-10
It is not as check weight. it is the weight that you put on the scale hook to make you go from 510 to 1010. this scale does not come with check weight. Only a weight to increase scale capacity.
It’s actually a very precise 250gn weight that, by placing it at the extreme left of the beam, will give the scale an additional 500 grain capacity. This gives the scale the ability to measure to 1010 grains (hence the name). As it is a very precise weight, it can also be used as a 250 grain check weight.
It in fact can be used as a check weight. If it is precise enough to add a certain amount down to .02 grains to scale capacity then I am more than sure it can be used as a check weight.
You don't even mention the adjustment screw. It is that part where the check weight sits. Screwing that down will raise the front of the scale so you really don't need to add weight to the pan if it is already close. Just turn that knurled knob for fine adjustment.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 87 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องชัย vs โชคปรีชา"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YN6e7HVnekw/mqdefault.jpg)
I know this is an old video and you might never see this, however I wanted to thank you for the video. I’ve been reloading 30 years, and most of that time I’ve used a 10-10 to measure my loads. Last year I purchased a Redding 10x competition pistol measure (man, is that well worth the $) and recently I noticed I was getting some small, but unusual variations in zeroing the scale. All it needed was a good cleaning (as you suggested) and it’s now back to its reliable self. Thanks again.
Just bought a used Lyman D-5 and was very disappointed when it arrived and seed to be drastically off. Then found your video. Low and behold the pan base was EMPTY! Now I can fix 'er up!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
In the first part of this video, you are actually talking about zeroing the scale. Calibration is setting your scale's output to match a known weight. That is what the check weights are for.
And I believe that the 250 check weight that you refer to is to add capacity to the scale; you place that weight on the hook near the pointer end of the scale. This will increase the capacity
of the scale by some amount that is stated in the manual.
These are old scales. They haven't been made for decades. The lead shot oxidizes and this changes its weight. I have found that I have to add a little bit of lead shot to re-calibrate. Try taking a piece of lead birdshot and crushing it with pliers. Then use scissors to cut off small pieces to ad to the scale pan hanger to get back to zero. Yes, use check weights to be accurate.
Did you read the directions that came with the scale? Calibrating is done with the adjustment screw at the base.The weighted pan is a factory calibration and should never be changed!!!
On the older ohaus scales it is recommended in the instructions to level the base of the scale, place the beam in the agate bearing pivots with an empty pan support and pan then add weight to the pan until the scale is zeroed. When zeroed put the non-magnetic material used you inside the pan support. Most Newer scales come calibrated from the factory to balance at an angle. Not sure why...but I have noticed increased repeatability just by adjusting weight in the support hanger so the beam is level when the pan in on and adjust the base to zero to where it rests.
Thank you so much for this video. I've just bought an old 10-10 scale, and this helps a bunch :).
Yes. I see i missed an important piece of information in my video. I will go back and correct this asap.
1. The scale needs to be level
2. There is the adjustment screw
3. Added wt must be non magnetic
Thank you for showing us how NOT to calibrate a 10-10 scale! Calibrating is done on the poise of the 10-10 by adding or removing material. usually it is fine the way it is. But IF you have to calibrate it, make sure the scale is leveled 100%, knives and pivots are clean. The knives should not have any burrs! Then move the poise in increments of 50gn and write down what you read. Go all the way up to 500gn. If done, you have an idea what your scale really shows and where it begins to show an offset. Usually I move the poise to 300gn and add or remove weight at the back of the poise to get it leveled at 300gn. This will reduce the error significantly and your 10-10 is tuned. Now repeat the steps and check in 50gn increments and enjoy a calibrated 10-10
After all these years, I never knew that 😊
It is not as check weight. it is the weight that you put on the scale hook to make you go from 510 to 1010. this scale does not come with check weight. Only a weight to increase scale capacity.
^^^exactly correct^^^ Note to self: Always read the instructions before you make a "how to" video.
Well....... if it's a known 500gr weight.. than couldn't you use it as a 500gr check weight?!
Zing
It’s actually a very precise 250gn weight that, by placing it at the extreme left of the beam, will give the scale an additional 500 grain capacity. This gives the scale the ability to measure to 1010 grains (hence the name). As it is a very precise weight, it can also be used as a 250 grain check weight.
It in fact can be used as a check weight. If it is precise enough to add a certain amount down to .02 grains to scale capacity then I am more than sure it can be used as a check weight.
You don't even mention the adjustment screw. It is that part where the check weight sits.
Screwing that down will raise the front of the scale so you really don't need to add weight to the pan if it is already close. Just turn that knurled knob for fine adjustment.
Yes I did see that. I have it here in the text of the video.
That’s a load of crap