honestly just get a Tire plug repair kit that has a core remover molded into the body of the container. much easier to use than the tiny piece that went flying.
@@diamondbracelette just look at which way the thread is slanted, you only need to see the arrow once per every tire, or, Of argue that they're all the same- slanted for less rolling resistance.
I really appreciate that you mentioned getting the tire in the center channel of the rim. I watched 20+ tubeless tire videos and not one mentioned getting the tire into the center channel. It really helps beginner bikers when everything is explained.
I thought I was the only one trying to pump up the canister and used my entire body weight to push enough PSI into it. That was funny. Seriously though, this was a really great video and I've been working on bikes for 40 years. Kudos!
Great informative video, I've been riding for 60 years, but over time you forget these little tricks. Thanks for the video, I enjoyed watching it. Be careful, but have fun.
I seat tyres using a normal floor pump all the time... Isn't hard... But an inner tube in, inflate it... Remove it from one side of the tyre (the other stays on the bead) then use a lever to seat the valve side half of the tyre onto the bead... Don't have to pump hard... Doesn't take long either
To fasten pedals, turn in the same direction your tires spin when you ride. To loosen, do the opposite. That's how I remember. (this rule does not apply to Danny McAskill, as rides in all different directions ;)
I liked the tip of listening to your bike even if the bike shop can't figure it out. Lived that one by experience. You should do a top 10 or top 5 video of your favorite rides/trails that you have done!
Nice video, good tips! One note is that pedals tend to go loose as you pedal, otherwise you would never be able to remove if they get tighter. That's the reason the threads are the way they are with reverse thread on the non-drive side. Think that you can hold the pedal and turn your cranks back you are tightening the pedal, if you have your bike in the stand and break lose and turn your cranks forward holding the pedal you are loosening the pedal, this works on both sides, so the pedals don't get extremely tight as you ride your bike.
Syd and Macky did a great video on how to install tubeless with a floor pump. There is a trick in there that is awesome wither you are using a floor pump or compressor.
Sacrilege! Everyone knows you line up the valve with the tire manufacturer logo so you find the valve easier. Also I don't think manufacturers recommend pressure values, they print the range that's safe to use. To find a good pressure value you must consider terrain, temperature, rider weight and even the suspension setup of the bike. The best a manufacturer can do is a chart with good starting values for certain conditions and I haven't seen one yet printed on a sidewall.
Easiet explanation for the direction of the tire. Others video are mainly like "u see this small thing in the tyre u never knew u had and probably can't see either. Well that faces this way"
It's refreshing to see you high in spirits despite the situation, I hope you're the same off camera. Nice video, got some new tires and a tubeless kit coming so will be sure to test your method.
Had a friend told me he just could not get that left pedal off. He put it in a vise he got a long extension on his wrench and hit it with a hammer and the left pedal would not come off. I asked him if he realize that the left pedal was reverse threaded and he went oh no wonder. If it wouldn’t be reverse threaded it would come loose when you were riding
Be aware: they *DO* come lose the way you're riding! If you're axle somehow happens to build enough drag _(or it's lose anyway)_ inside the pedal body it will unscrew itself as you pedal. Go check your bike and watch your eyes pop in disbelief!
Center channel for installing the tire is elementary, but something that makes a impossible tire changing by an almost easy experience (even without tools AND with a tire insert)
Loved that last tip. So , so true. At the bike shop where I moonlight people always have those issues starting up. Broken parts scratches on the paint , stock pads. Lol
At 44 years old I’ve been working on my own bikes since the age of 8 and never noticed the different writing on the drive side of a tire 🤣 Still have a 50/50 chance of remembering which way to spin my pedals. Usually work from the drive side and use the left loose concept but I don’t change pedals that often and forget sometimes.
The disc usually has the rotation direction stamped on it. Let the air out of the tire before removing the core. That way it does not blow off and sealant does not spray out
1. One thing that helps me setup tubeless on a fat bike is to wrap an inner tube to the outside of the middle of the tire and pull the sidewalls to the rim. It allows me to set a bead on a fat bike without using a compressor. I have one but it is loud and I often work on my bike when my kid is sleeping. 2. If you get a park tools valve core removal tool it fits around the valve. When it is unscrewed it will not fly off since the air just pushes it into the tool. :) Love the Presta is Besta tip. I always get the two confused.
tubless tyre installation hack...Make some 'slip'. Mix some washing up liquid with a bit of water and make a frothy goo with nice small bubbles (lots of soap, little bit of water) wipe/smear that around the rim of tyre before inflation...makes the bead sit more easily (and creates a bit of air seal) as you inflate. Plus makes wiping the excess sealant easier as well. Great video !
Use one of these: Park VC-1 instead of the "little plastic thingy" to remove valve core to keep it from flying. And, it can be used if you do have schrader on other bikes (like cruisers) and your wheelbarrow and chevy! Also available cheaper on Amazon.
Hey, great list of items. Most of these I already know, but some were just great reminders or tips/tricks. Bringing some great value in this video. Brian, thank you! Worth the watch, I will be sharing to my local FB trail group.
Look up the stans or park tool valve core removal tools, they support presta and scraeder and stops the valve core flying out, you will still get the sudden rush of air. There are also syringes that allow you to inspect the fluid without unseating the tyre
I have a bike rack I love. Having said that, I put my bikes in my Toyota Celica for years! The problem is the brakes and making sure you put something between the disk brakes cause you don't want them to close. But I put them in like they were my babies. The problem with bike racks is (and I learned this from a seasoned technician) is that if you drive a lot (he went from Montreal to Whistler), it dries out your bike. It is not a pro-con tip, but actually a reason to remember to grease the bike. When I say dry out, I am talking about the headset and wheel bearings and the obvious, like the chain etc. (If bearings are sealed, they still lead to be lubbed on the outside. Just something to think about. Thanks for the video.
couple hacks i do.. i carry a master link inside my bars. i wrap it with blue painters tape (so its doenst make a bunch of noise) always with me, cant lose it. i also wrap my post with a bunch of electrical tape, so if a cable breaks, i can secure it and keep riding
Hi Brian - when undoing your pedals if with your bike on the floor with the pedal you are undoing in the forward most position you can then simply pull up on the allen key / hex wrench to undo. This is a lot less awkward and if on a double set up reduced your chances of slicing your arm on an exposed chainring.
After years of presta I'm slowly switching my bikes to schrader. I'm sick and tired of not being able to find pumps riding to check my tires. Schrader are just more universal. And I keep letting air out as I turn the presta but back down. Plus I don't ride a road bike so I don't need a skinny valve. And both work great!
I run Schwalbe and writing is identical on both sides...another way to tell direction, is the tread is designed to push water in mud out of the center to the sides and out of the tire all together.
definitely look for problems if something feels off. my stumpjumper was making odd noises over rough stuff on my last ride and when i got home i found that the bolt that attaches the shock to the frame had rattled loose. don't break your bikes and look for problems!
Great topic! I wish I would have also known more about mountain bikes in general before I bought one. Things change and you start to enjoy different aspects of biking, so you might end up wishing you had a bike with longer travel because you’ve gotten more aggressive. Bottom line is that you learn as you grow and progress in this sport, and sometimes you just need to experience it to learn.
usually, before i start work on my mountain bike i have never done before, i study like a madman until i exactly know what to do in every detail. this is caused by PTSD i got from botching on old street bikes with wrong tools and brutal force. i had so many experienced of failure this way so i had to get this straight when i bought a decent mountain bike :D
Brian, what about some info on how you got to know where all the trails are on your 50 states ride,? Also how you go about planning the rides, what riding distance they are, what to take, how long will they take to ride etc.
you should do a video series for new mtbers on how to fix up your bike or like maintenance things you should do like after a ride or something. Like what your routine is after a dirty ride. Love the Vids Keep em coming
I wish I hadn’t started out on an XC hardtail. I should have looked for a more trail focused one. Because now I’m at the point where I’m able to push my bike to its limit.
Video ideas: building backyard features. Doesn’t have to be anything grand, but maybe your version of a kicker or ladder/skinny, teeter etc. DIYing things to improve or enjoy riding while stuck at home seem to be really hot right now, and are what a lot of us need not being able to hit the trails in some areas. They’re also super fun to watch, and you and your dad are awesome builders!
Another pro tip is the park tool valve core tool goes completely over so it never goes flying. Ten dollars well spent to only search the floor on my hands and knees when I drop it.
I oil the chain links individually too. With shimano the join link can be hard to see, so just count the links as you go 114 on mine. Also if you seat the tyre, then put the sealant in thru the vavle with the syringe and tube for bleeding the brakes, saves making a mess and wasting sealant
Quick thing about oiling chains: you don't actually oil the interface between the chain and the gears, in fact the oil lubricates the surface between the rollers and the pins of the chain. The rollers are what wears down gears if they don't spin freely, and the rollers themselves also wear down causing "chain lengthening". Therefore, oiling from the top or the bottom changes nothing ;-) the more you know...
Your digital tire gauge is awesome. It has a function that makes the read out blink. In that setting, you can release air and it will read the pressure as you release it.
I like placing my valve stem centered on the tire details instead of just the logo, since you have the max pressure info and other bits right there. You'll likely never use the MAX since everyone has their preferred pressure settings based on ride style and such, but it's just a little touch.
Always apply force in a direction AWAY from the chain ring (and anything else sharp or pointy)! The latest Park pedal wrench with two differently-angled slots ensures you can always get the proper purchase & leverage without having to sacrifice your digits!
...."even when you bring it to the shop and THEY CAN'T QUIT FIGURE IT OUT "...18:00 -Story of my life, I'm in the point that I don't trust any of them and learned to do it by myself, much better Not ignoring the weird sounds in your bike is the best!!!
I got a really crappy pump, my tire popped on fine, didn't have to pull i in the bead with my hands or anything. Took 10 seconds for it to pop, 2.6, 35mm rims. Stans sealant and valves.
For video ideas you could try some time lapse/progression videos of learning some basics tricks and trials skills. Track standing, endo, wheelie, manual, Jeff Lenosky's "punch", etc.... (tricks that fit in your backyard or driveway)... I like seeing Phil's instructional videos on how to do these, but it'd be good to see the learning process as well, and i suspect you're closer to human than Phil when it comes to those skills. Watching the blunders is much more relatable for most of us, and inspirational when it ends in success. Good channe, I've been watching you for a while. Keep going
The valve core removal tool usually comes with DT Swiss valves. The little forked section is just big enough to tightly fit over the threads of the valve. I actually placed one on my old trail bike and it never fell off in over a years worth of riding (didn't need it in that time after all). And I am surprised that there was no camera shake from sara laughing at you while you were doing this!
Another good tip is to rotate the tire so the PSI rating is near the valve stem. That way you're aware of it when you're pumping the tire, not that you'll ever pump it to the max. Also install the tire in the orientation you want it so you don't have to rotate once it's on the wheel, which is harder to do.
Video Recommendation: film your local trail loop comparing lap times with different types of tyres such as DH/Enduro tyres like Maxxis Assegai/DHR2 and light weight 'XC' tyres like Maxxis Rekon/Ardent/Ikon and comment on the different feel, lap times, speed, rolling resistance, grip, etc
Lezyne floor pumps have valve core removal tools built into the head of the pump. Never lose it and you almost always need a pump when you’re doing valve core removal
Great video, sound advise, i never noticed the tyre think before. I did notice a few videos ago that you said you go through a few headsets...( I think it was on your new bike video) If you wash your bike upside down the water runs down the forks and frame and runs straight into your internal headset.... Maybe it's that? 😂 Love the channel, be safe out there
I think your analogy of "backing off" and "going forward" is perfect! Thank you! As for the torque wrench, I have that particular tool and love it. Only trouble is it only goes from 4 to 6 newton meters (about). You need a bigger and more versatile torque wrench with a larger range for some of the larger parts. I still haven't gotten a tool that's small enough to be useful on a big but big enough to have more of a range. Okay, I have to admit, that green screen bit at the end made me laugh. That was great. haha! Stay upright and keep the rubber side down! -Brian
he is not exaclty a bike guy....but wonderfully entertaining....what a geek....i love geeks, seems like a real nice fun guy to have around...in fact id trust him with my kids immediately.
The brake disc also have an arrow. Just match up the tire with it. Although some tires show the arrow only one side. But thats also a good tip with the writing 👍
HI Brian, Show us your camera rig for filming while biking. Your mounts, external audio, and cameras of choice. What software you are using to edit your vids. Your vids are usually very good quality and this is something that may be of value. If you have not show this before, that is. Just started biking again after 18 years here in Asheville, NC and getting used to using a dropper post. Many videos are subpar at explaining when or where to drop. My issue is timing mostly and I get myself out of rhythm while also changing gears going up hill so I lose momentum. May get a few vids out of any of that. Thanks Brian.
Drop post when dropping a steep hill and drop gear at bottom of the hill and pop up dropper post. Think of it as a clutch on a car. Exchange gear ratio for pedal ratio. Maybe I should do a video on it.👍
@@mikethadeeter Yea but maybe I can add a certain flair to it. Like if your dropper post slams your beans bags. What is the best bailout for that scenario?
If you could only pick one tire remover prybar would you pick the yellow ones or the black ones that turn into the chain assist tool? You talk about them both but give me just your "only get one" choice option. Thanks. Great video! Sorry I don't know all the jargon because I'm just learning myself.
Video idea: what you bring with you for different lengths and seasons of riding. For example: how much water you bring for a 2 hour ride vs a 4 hour ride
For lubing the chain, I put it in a high gear and then just let the lube tip sit on the chain at the top of the bottom jockey wheel and spin backwards without squeezing. It is like a hamster bottle that only lets lube out on the chain where it pivots. I am not concerned with the top or bottom because they are rollers that move around the pin. Puts just the right amount of lube out and keeps it away from the rotor.
Leave the valve core out when trying to seat the tyre, you'll get a better flow of air. Oh and the arrow on nearly every brand of tyre is normally a dead giveaway on direction 😁
some nice pointers! About lubing the chain. You don't choose the inside because "its the part that makes contact". The rollers do just that... roll!. What you want to do is get INSIDE the rollers with your lube. Top or bottom of the chain doesn't really make any difference. Also, that Topeak Booster pump is great, but it's gauge is pretty badly calibrated, just like mine. Too bad you can't get a decent gauge on a pump at that price level.
Not a hack but if you simply let the air out BEFORE you undo the valve core, it will not shoot up like that ;)
YvMa Lnt yeah but sometimes it’s easier to let the air out all in one go
Haha most definitely the right way to do it!
Jenson Dartnall two for one really you also have 50% less eyes to worry about.
I find if I use valve core remover it stays in there instead of shooting out but that could be different for different valve core removers
honestly just get a Tire plug repair kit that has a core remover molded into the body of the container. much easier to use than the tiny piece that went flying.
Pro tip: the direction of rotation is mentioned on the tyre 😂
And the markings thing only really works for Maxxis.
But looking for that little arrow on many tires can be a PITA. I'll gladly rely on stronger visual cues if they exist on any given tire
@@diamondbracelette a stronger visual cue than an arrow that says, "Hey! I turn this way!"?
@@diamondbracelette just look at which way the thread is slanted, you only need to see the arrow once per every tire, or, Of argue that they're all the same- slanted for less rolling resistance.
@@conman1395 I can never find it - especially on WTB tyres. Its normally small black writing (on a black tyre!)
I really appreciate that you mentioned getting the tire in the center channel of the rim. I watched 20+ tubeless tire videos and not one mentioned getting the tire into the center channel. It really helps beginner bikers when everything is explained.
Legend has it Brian is still oiling his chain
😂😂😂
I thought I was the only one trying to pump up the canister and used my entire body weight to push enough PSI into it. That was funny. Seriously though, this was a really great video and I've been working on bikes for 40 years. Kudos!
Update: CushCore is now on, and only in 3 hours!
Hahaha awesome
a new world record, beating me by a full hour
Sadly the decal tip only works on Maxxis as most tyres have decals both sides, much better to simply find the rotational arrow on the tyre.
Morgan Jones just look at the tread
Not all have arrows lol, but yes this and tread direction
true, schwalbe has both sides the same
another reason to not run maxxis, haha
Some Kendas, if not all, have it only on one side too
Great informative video, I've been riding for 60 years, but over time you forget these little tricks.
Thanks for the video, I enjoyed watching it. Be careful, but have fun.
I love the fact that you're a tad bit goofy while working on your bike and yet you've managed to build up such an amazing platform ❤️
You are so right about the bike rack and when you feel something is wrong with your bike. Good work
I seat tyres using a normal floor pump all the time... Isn't hard... But an inner tube in, inflate it... Remove it from one side of the tyre (the other stays on the bead) then use a lever to seat the valve side half of the tyre onto the bead... Don't have to pump hard... Doesn't take long either
Thank you , B . Your riding style rocks . You are my role model when it comes to riding singletracks .
To fasten pedals, turn in the same direction your tires spin when you ride. To loosen, do the opposite. That's how I remember.
(this rule does not apply to Danny McAskill, as rides in all different directions ;)
That’s a good one!
Right is right
Brian, all the tyres have on both or at least on one side, one or more arrows with the Word "rotation"
I liked the tip of listening to your bike even if the bike shop can't figure it out. Lived that one by experience. You should do a top 10 or top 5 video of your favorite rides/trails that you have done!
dressed for wine tasting while doing bike maintenance :D
Nice video, good tips! One note is that pedals tend to go loose as you pedal, otherwise you would never be able to remove if they get tighter. That's the reason the threads are the way they are with reverse thread on the non-drive side. Think that you can hold the pedal and turn your cranks back you are tightening the pedal, if you have your bike in the stand and break lose and turn your cranks forward holding the pedal you are loosening the pedal, this works on both sides, so the pedals don't get extremely tight as you ride your bike.
Felt like I was watching a live stream. Which is good, because I love your livestreams. You always stay attentive and keep things flowing so well!
Syd and Macky did a great video on how to install tubeless with a floor pump. There is a trick in there that is awesome wither you are using a floor pump or compressor.
When putting a new tire on, I like to put the psi recommendations on the sidewall right next to valve, that way you don't have to look for it.
Sacrilege! Everyone knows you line up the valve with the tire manufacturer logo so you find the valve easier. Also I don't think manufacturers recommend pressure values, they print the range that's safe to use. To find a good pressure value you must consider terrain, temperature, rider weight and even the suspension setup of the bike. The best a manufacturer can do is a chart with good starting values for certain conditions and I haven't seen one yet printed on a sidewall.
Ouch, nobody goes by the psi marked on the sidewall, on my maxxis DHR II, that would mean using a pressure of 60psi. Can you imagine the ride?
It’s fine to line it up that way but please learn about tire pressure.
For pedals, the threds tighten as if you are pedaling forward
Dude - You nailed this! Hit so many points it would have been cool to know, before I started dyi-ing my bike!
Thank you for helping with most things us beginners will mainly overlook! Huge fan! Thank you for the content you make!
Easiet explanation for the direction of the tire.
Others video are mainly like "u see this small thing in the tyre u never knew u had and probably can't see either. Well that faces this way"
It's refreshing to see you high in spirits despite the situation, I hope you're the same off camera. Nice video, got some new tires and a tubeless kit coming so will be sure to test your method.
Had a friend told me he just could not get that left pedal off. He put it in a vise he got a long extension on his wrench and hit it with a hammer and the left pedal would not come off. I asked him if he realize that the left pedal was reverse threaded and he went oh no wonder. If it wouldn’t be reverse threaded it would come loose when you were riding
Be aware: they *DO* come lose the way you're riding!
If you're axle somehow happens to build enough drag _(or it's lose anyway)_ inside the pedal body it will unscrew itself as you pedal.
Go check your bike and watch your eyes pop in disbelief!
Center channel for installing the tire is elementary, but something that makes a impossible tire changing by an almost easy experience (even without tools AND with a tire insert)
Loved that last tip. So , so true. At the bike shop where I moonlight people always have those issues starting up. Broken parts scratches on the paint , stock pads. Lol
Can you tell me what work clamp you have? I like the hanging idea of it.
Just found your video that explains. Thanks!
At 44 years old I’ve been working on my own bikes since the age of 8 and never noticed the different writing on the drive side of a tire 🤣 Still have a 50/50 chance of remembering which way to spin my pedals. Usually work from the drive side and use the left loose concept but I don’t change pedals that often and forget sometimes.
The disc usually has the rotation direction stamped on it.
Let the air out of the tire before removing the core. That way it does not blow off and sealant does not spray out
that is very basic, how on earth he doesnt know it!
1. One thing that helps me setup tubeless on a fat bike is to wrap an inner tube to the outside of the middle of the tire and pull the sidewalls to the rim. It allows me to set a bead on a fat bike without using a compressor. I have one but it is loud and I often work on my bike when my kid is sleeping. 2. If you get a park tools valve core removal tool it fits around the valve. When it is unscrewed it will not fly off since the air just pushes it into the tool. :) Love the Presta is Besta tip. I always get the two confused.
"This thing"
- Brian Kennedy
From all your trips in USA and europe you tried different eateries. Maybe now's the time to do video on foods you like especially in Europe.
He really knows what he's talking about.
@@kitten-inside yup
"and bang"
tubless tyre installation hack...Make some 'slip'. Mix some washing up liquid with a bit of water and make a frothy goo with nice small bubbles (lots of soap, little bit of water) wipe/smear that around the rim of tyre before inflation...makes the bead sit more easily (and creates a bit of air seal) as you inflate. Plus makes wiping the excess sealant easier as well. Great video !
There are presta caps with valve stem removal tool built in to the cap.
Use one of these: Park VC-1 instead of the "little plastic thingy" to remove valve core to keep it from flying. And, it can be used if you do have schrader on other bikes (like cruisers) and your wheelbarrow and chevy! Also available cheaper on Amazon.
shinerider yes
And your shock and fork valves
Brian this is one of you’re best video’s 😁, i’ve laughed a lot!
That bikeshop thing @18:00 is very recognizable 😂😂
Hey, great list of items. Most of these I already know, but some were just great reminders or tips/tricks. Bringing some great value in this video. Brian, thank you! Worth the watch, I will be sharing to my local FB trail group.
I just purchased a 1 Up rack last week. It is being delivered Monday. So excited. The Saris rack worked but it was pretty cheap and the bikes move.
Look up the stans or park tool valve core removal tools, they support presta and scraeder and stops the valve core flying out, you will still get the sudden rush of air. There are also syringes that allow you to inspect the fluid without unseating the tyre
I have a bike rack I love. Having said that, I put my bikes in my Toyota Celica for years! The problem is the brakes and making sure you put something between the disk brakes cause you don't want them to close. But I put them in like they were my babies. The problem with bike racks is (and I learned this from a seasoned technician) is that if you drive a lot (he went from Montreal to Whistler), it dries out your bike. It is not a pro-con tip, but actually a reason to remember to grease the bike. When I say dry out, I am talking about the headset and wheel bearings and the obvious, like the chain etc. (If bearings are sealed, they still lead to be lubbed on the outside. Just something to think about. Thanks for the video.
couple hacks i do.. i carry a master link inside my bars. i wrap it with blue painters tape (so its doenst make a bunch of noise) always with me, cant lose it. i also wrap my post with a bunch of electrical tape, so if a cable breaks, i can secure it and keep riding
Brian, fantastic informative video. They are small items to check regularly and this reminds us all of the importance to not ignore
Great video!
I appreciate the additional synopsis write-up as well!
Hi Brian - when undoing your pedals if with your bike on the floor with the pedal you are undoing in the forward most position you can then simply pull up on the allen key / hex wrench to undo. This is a lot less awkward and if on a double set up reduced your chances of slicing your arm on an exposed chainring.
For the pedals, I always think of the "R"ight pedal threads on the "R"egular way.
What I've learned:
Presta is the besta
Actually schrader is more reliable, that's why they are used for car tires
@@mattkavanaugh5623 presta is the besta
After years of presta I'm slowly switching my bikes to schrader. I'm sick and tired of not being able to find pumps riding to check my tires. Schrader are just more universal. And I keep letting air out as I turn the presta but back down. Plus I don't ride a road bike so I don't need a skinny valve.
And both work great!
Name one thing that Presta does better than Schrader :P
The dust cap on Peaty's Tubeless Valves doubles up as a valve core removal tool 👌
I feel like im getting trolled for 20 mins
I run Schwalbe and writing is identical on both sides...another way to tell direction, is the tread is designed to push water in mud out of the center to the sides and out of the tire all together.
definitely look for problems if something feels off. my stumpjumper was making odd noises over rough stuff on my last ride and when i got home i found that the bolt that attaches the shock to the frame had rattled loose. don't break your bikes and look for problems!
Great topic! I wish I would have also known more about mountain bikes in general before I bought one. Things change and you start to enjoy different aspects of biking, so you might end up wishing you had a bike with longer travel because you’ve gotten more aggressive. Bottom line is that you learn as you grow and progress in this sport, and sometimes you just need to experience it to learn.
I draw on the inside of the brake clamps and stem with silver permanent sharpie to get precise touch points set points. Got that tip from GMBN I think
Thanks Bryan! Enjoyed that vid. Kinda at an early stage myself. A year and a half in and still learning but nervous. Valve core tool! Had no clue...
usually, before i start work on my mountain bike i have never done before, i study like a madman until i exactly know what to do in every detail. this is caused by PTSD i got from botching on old street bikes with wrong tools and brutal force. i had so many experienced of failure this way so i had to get this straight when i bought a decent mountain bike :D
Live your channel, you are like the nicest person ever
the tape tip is awesome. struggled a lot the exact same problem
Brian, what about some info on how you got to know where all the trails are on your 50 states ride,?
Also how you go about planning the rides, what riding distance they are, what to take, how long will they take to ride etc.
you should do a video series for new mtbers on how to fix up your bike or like maintenance things you should do like after a ride or something. Like what your routine is after a dirty ride. Love the Vids Keep em coming
Stan's valve core remover works really well. Does schraeder and presta.
I wish I hadn’t started out on an XC hardtail. I should have looked for a more trail focused one. Because now I’m at the point where I’m able to push my bike to its limit.
Same here. Hoping to get a full sus by the end of this year
Video ideas: building backyard features.
Doesn’t have to be anything grand, but maybe your version of a kicker or ladder/skinny, teeter etc. DIYing things to improve or enjoy riding while stuck at home seem to be really hot right now, and are what a lot of us need not being able to hit the trails in some areas. They’re also super fun to watch, and you and your dad are awesome builders!
Another pro tip is the park tool valve core tool goes completely over so it never goes flying. Ten dollars well spent to only search the floor on my hands and knees when I drop it.
I oil the chain links individually too. With shimano the join link can be hard to see, so just count the links as you go 114 on mine. Also if you seat the tyre, then put the sealant in thru the vavle with the syringe and tube for bleeding the brakes, saves making a mess and wasting sealant
I just get myself a masterlink with a different color.
Quick thing about oiling chains: you don't actually oil the interface between the chain and the gears, in fact the oil lubricates the surface between the rollers and the pins of the chain. The rollers are what wears down gears if they don't spin freely, and the rollers themselves also wear down causing "chain lengthening".
Therefore, oiling from the top or the bottom changes nothing ;-)
the more you know...
Been looking for this comment! 👍🏻
Brian, this video was awesome, it taught me a few things. Now I can impress my cycling buddies.
Your digital tire gauge is awesome. It has a function that makes the read out blink. In that setting, you can release air and it will read the pressure as you release it.
I like placing my valve stem centered on the tire details instead of just the logo, since you have the max pressure info and other bits right there. You'll likely never use the MAX since everyone has their preferred pressure settings based on ride style and such, but it's just a little touch.
You didn't bleed when trying to loosen your pedal. That's a win in my book!
Always apply force in a direction AWAY from the chain ring (and anything else sharp or pointy)! The latest Park pedal wrench with two differently-angled slots ensures you can always get the proper purchase & leverage without having to sacrifice your digits!
...."even when you bring it to the shop and THEY CAN'T QUIT FIGURE IT OUT "...18:00 -Story of my life, I'm in the point that I don't trust any of them and learned to do it by myself, much better
Not ignoring the weird sounds in your bike is the best!!!
I got a really crappy pump, my tire popped on fine, didn't have to pull i in the bead with my hands or anything. Took 10 seconds for it to pop, 2.6, 35mm rims.
Stans sealant and valves.
For video ideas you could try some time lapse/progression videos of learning some basics tricks and trials skills. Track standing, endo, wheelie, manual, Jeff Lenosky's "punch", etc.... (tricks that fit in your backyard or driveway)... I like seeing Phil's instructional videos on how to do these, but it'd be good to see the learning process as well, and i suspect you're closer to human than Phil when it comes to those skills. Watching the blunders is much more relatable for most of us, and inspirational when it ends in success.
Good channe, I've been watching you for a while. Keep going
The valve core removal tool usually comes with DT Swiss valves. The little forked section is just big enough to tightly fit over the threads of the valve. I actually placed one on my old trail bike and it never fell off in over a years worth of riding (didn't need it in that time after all). And I am surprised that there was no camera shake from sara laughing at you while you were doing this!
How about a video on how you set up your suspension? Or any tips you’ve learned on how to set Sag, dial compression, rebound etc.
Another good tip is to rotate the tire so the PSI rating is near the valve stem. That way you're aware of it when you're pumping the tire, not that you'll ever pump it to the max. Also install the tire in the orientation you want it so you don't have to rotate once it's on the wheel, which is harder to do.
pedals don't tighten as you ride they actually loosen, they are designed like this so the pedals don't become seized in the cranks
Video Recommendation: film your local trail loop comparing lap times with different types of tyres such as DH/Enduro tyres like Maxxis Assegai/DHR2 and light weight 'XC' tyres like Maxxis Rekon/Ardent/Ikon and comment on the different feel, lap times, speed, rolling resistance, grip, etc
Wow, a camera being held by another person! congratulations
What kind of bike stand do you use that comes down from the ceiling?
th-cam.com/video/p5ck7q7dyjk/w-d-xo.html
Lezyne floor pumps have valve core removal tools built into the head of the pump. Never lose it and you almost always need a pump when you’re doing valve core removal
my own hack for pedals is "right hand thread and left hand thread"
right hand: standard thread
left hand: the other way around
its easier to remember
Great video, sound advise, i never noticed the tyre think before.
I did notice a few videos ago that you said you go through a few headsets...( I think it was on your new bike video)
If you wash your bike upside down the water runs down the forks and frame and runs straight into your internal headset....
Maybe it's that? 😂
Love the channel, be safe out there
Tire direction info's a bit wrong..some tires have logo's, writing etc on both sides...Always look for the directional arrow 1st..
Have you done a video about the tools you have. Maybe a quick video on how you set up your work station, it looks pretty good
I think your analogy of "backing off" and "going forward" is perfect! Thank you!
As for the torque wrench, I have that particular tool and love it. Only trouble is it only goes from 4 to 6 newton meters (about). You need a bigger and more versatile torque wrench with a larger range for some of the larger parts. I still haven't gotten a tool that's small enough to be useful on a big but big enough to have more of a range.
Okay, I have to admit, that green screen bit at the end made me laugh. That was great. haha!
Stay upright and keep the rubber side down!
-Brian
Bike looks awesome Brian, what a colour that is! Also the grips! Nice
he is not exaclty a bike guy....but wonderfully entertaining....what a geek....i love geeks, seems like a real nice fun guy to have around...in fact id trust him with my kids immediately.
The brake disc also have an arrow. Just match up the tire with it. Although some tires show the arrow only one side. But thats also a good tip with the writing 👍
Yeah great tips Brian! Liked and Shared as always. Keep safe hope to see you shred the trails again.
Thanks dude!!
HI Brian, Show us your camera rig for filming while biking. Your mounts, external audio, and cameras of choice. What software you are using to edit your vids. Your vids are usually very good quality and this is something that may be of value. If you have not show this before, that is. Just started biking again after 18 years here in Asheville, NC and getting used to using a dropper post. Many videos are subpar at explaining when or where to drop. My issue is timing mostly and I get myself out of rhythm while also changing gears going up hill so I lose momentum. May get a few vids out of any of that. Thanks Brian.
Drop post when dropping a steep hill and drop gear at bottom of the hill and pop up dropper post. Think of it as a clutch on a car. Exchange gear ratio for pedal ratio. Maybe I should do a video on it.👍
This video has been made brother!
@@mikethadeeter Yea but maybe I can add a certain flair to it. Like if your dropper post slams your beans bags. What is the best bailout for that scenario?
I’d also like to see a video workflow video. 🤙🤙🤟
12:06 why we love ya, dude.. THE DETAILS lol great vid
Brian, please read the instructions on the chain lube you are using in this video. You're supposed with wet that chain liberally and the wipe clean.
Brian got a CameraWoman ;P
If you could only pick one tire remover prybar would you pick the yellow ones or the black ones that turn into the chain assist tool? You talk about them both but give me just your "only get one" choice option. Thanks. Great video! Sorry I don't know all the jargon because I'm just learning myself.
Really hope you are able to get back and continue the 50 state shred!!
Video idea: what you bring with you for different lengths and seasons of riding. For example: how much water you bring for a 2 hour ride vs a 4 hour ride
Random question - Your videos always look super high quality, can you tell me what your export settings are?
For lubing the chain, I put it in a high gear and then just let the lube tip sit on the chain at the top of the bottom jockey wheel and spin backwards without squeezing. It is like a hamster bottle that only lets lube out on the chain where it pivots. I am not concerned with the top or bottom because they are rollers that move around the pin. Puts just the right amount of lube out and keeps it away from the rotor.
Leave the valve core out when trying to seat the tyre, you'll get a better flow of air.
Oh and the arrow on nearly every brand of tyre is normally a dead giveaway on direction 😁
some nice pointers! About lubing the chain. You don't choose the inside because "its the part that makes contact". The rollers do just that... roll!. What you want to do is get INSIDE the rollers with your lube. Top or bottom of the chain doesn't really make any difference.
Also, that Topeak Booster pump is great, but it's gauge is pretty badly calibrated, just like mine. Too bad you can't get a decent gauge on a pump at that price level.