Stu, these were the videos that brought me to your channel in the first place! Don't get me wrong, you do lots of interesting things and I enjoyed all the Renko stuff, but this is where its at for me!
Don''t mess with Daffy's food... A side note on over heating. Keep an eye out for pieces of plastic, plastic bags, etc., floating at the water's surface. If your boat runs over them, they can wrap around your lower unit and cover the water intakes.
Yep, for sure, blocking the intake grill stops any cooling water fast. One other thing I forgot to mention is a blocked behind the exhaust cover can stop it exiting, another way to prevent any flow of water. It's only a small outlet and it is common for the internal anode to break off an block the hole...
Every time I have a hard problem I don't understand and no one else can answer, I find it here. Your description of the symptoms of the blown head gasket nailed my symptoms perfectly. I couldnt understand why my telltale would pulse and then get hot and weak, even with a brand new thermostat and good water flow. The pulsing was evident but I thought I was being over critical. More exhaust than normal and you explanation of why. I can't find outboard mechanics where I am at, so this site saves me. Thank you. Gonna buy some of your merch now.
I like your Business scheme. A Two-fer-Oner! Double dodgy makes a Beauty! It's like a Ponzi scheme with outdoor motors! Lol again. Blessings Stu. Love your channel.
Love watching your videos and learn so much. When you were talking about ordering gaskets I was thinking that I sometimes find it hard to be confident I have the right part numbers. I think a video of the process you use to find parts diagrams and order parts could be a great addition to your website.
Great work Doug. I know someone who, on a world sail, had a Seagull tender outboard with a poorly bottom end and while in the Far East they stumbled over a Seagull lower end stuck deep into a beach. I know it sounds far-fetched but that one was better then what they had and it served for their trip. Just shows that engine amalgamation is a real thing as you show. It does amaze me how intricate and complicated many OB engines have become, especially multi-cylinder 4 strokes. They are as sophisticated as modern motorbike motors but work in much harsher environments, often with insufficient care. They are like watches where a careless owner has forgotten to screw down the winder yet complains that they fail. Cheers for the content!
It is amazing how well lower units can last out in the wild if the seals are still good. Modern EFI four stroke outboards certainly are every bit as complicated as many car and bike engines these days.
i bought 2 75 hp 1976 chrysler outboards for $150.00. between the two i rebuilt the best one, honed cylinders, new rings, cleaned it inside out new gaskets all round, new fuel pump ect. been running great 4 years now.
I have a 1973 Evinrude 65 HP that had a blown crankcase on it (all the horses ran out of the hole in the block!). I was going to strip it and sell the parts, but I found a good crankcase on eBay for $100 (US). A little cleaning and combining, some new gaskets, obviously a little help from Dangar Marine videos 🙂, and now it's on my bass boat!
Love the background music you picked for the show........ Thanks for all your tips. Started taking my 50 apart a year ago but still sitting as is. Need to get on it...... 😎✌
Burnt lower engine gasket (base gasket) is also one failure in small 2 stroke outboards you need to keep your eye on when the water pump fails and engine overheats. Most telling symptom of blown lower gasket is in most cases that the engine runs only without the motor cover.
With a very large amount of 50’s and 60’s and 70’s outboards it’s easy to take 2 or 3 to make one really nice one both performance and cosmetic! With that one having cable throttle have you ever thought of using a slide type carb ? All the ones I do have a mechanical throttle !
Your good. I live on the chesapeake bay and go threw old outboard motors every couple seasons... I find them cheap.. often making 2 out of 3 or 4motors..Great video
I suffer from an overabundance of the herein described mix & match motor syndrome. My shop is FULL of matching sets with mismatching issues. And there are are lots of "different" engines that utilize the same lower units or the same midsection, tilt units, etc.... so I sell of lot of refurbished engines that, when asked by the buyer what year it is, I have to say; "well, it's a 1987/1989/1992 Suzuki DT55/65 with a Mercury 35/45/50 prop."
One of my Harleys I put together in 2016 is a bit of a hodgepodge of parts. Someone will ask me what year it is. I tell them it's titled as a 1949 as that is the frame I used. But I like to call it my Johnny Cash special "I built it one piece at a time" as the song says.
Blown head gasket can also lead to a no or really hard start soon after running. Gets water in the lower cylinder. The problem is that a blown exhaust gasket does the same damn thing...
I've heard of people putting some diluted muriatic acid or other acid through the cooling system to dissolve or flush out any junk or blockages - but that seems harsh.
brilliant explanations as always, I would love to know a bit apout pressure release poppet valve on the cooling systems, particularly where to find them and which engines have them.
This video couldn't have come at a better time. I've been dealing with my 85 3.6 liter Evinrude Looper. It's been overheating. despite putting a brand new water pump & housing on it, it won't build water pressure, and overheats. I removed the thermostats and ran the engine to see if it was pumping water to the top of the engine and it was, but there was quite a bit of exhaust coming out of the thermostat holes. I asked on a OMC performance page if this was normal, and was told it was, so I didn't think much of it (as this engine has always been extremely reliable). To make a long story short, I wound up getting it really hot, thought I ruined it. hot horns were going on and off randomly, could never get more than about 5psi water pressure at the gauge (I surface drive the prop with low water pickups and nosecone). Sadly the engine 'heat seized' and quit. Next day, the engine was free, made good compression, turned flywheel by hand, felt good with no catches. used a bore scope and couldn't see any damage on pistons, and plugs looked good (no aluminum dust on them). Started engine and it ran, without lower unit on. Did a water pressure test by using a garden hose and hose clamp on the water intake pipe, and water started leaking out the head gaskets. Removed heads and it looks like no leaks on the combustion sealing rings. Cylinder bores look good, pistons look good (no marks of detonation). But cylinder sleeve #3 has rotated in the block about 1/8 of a turn, half way closing off the valves(ports). Gotta heat the block in a oven and rotate it back into place, but haven't done so yet, because I was thinking there's probably a crack in the water jacket between the exhaust housing and water jacket. But now I'm thinking the head gaskets probably failed. Would you think I'm most likely correct? Should I have the block and heads magnafluxed? Thanks for your channel, you've giving good info in the past.
Love your videos even though I have never touched a marine engine! Would just like to suggest that you affix the camera currently attached to your workbench, to a bracket on the wall (or similar). That way the earth won't shake whenever you drop a powerhead on the bench! 😉
I had overheating on low rpm on my yamaha f25 4stroke.the problem was brass tube corodded,and there were many holes along it,so in low rpm there was not enough water coming in the block,when throtlle was open no alarm
@@DangarMarine somewhere so safe you will definitely forget where you put them when u need them, and go buy a new part, then find said safe place 3 months later
Man Stu.. I'm having horrible, horrible PTSD flashbacks to my days of digging all the CRAP out of outboards stuck in saltwater that saw the air and a mechanic maybe once a year.. if I was lucky! 🤬 In my time at the marina it was the days people were still dumping ATF in the fuel rather than 2 stroke oil; cooling passages so clogged up the owners wouldn't have their heat issues looked into until something seized or caught on fire.. in the middle of the bay. Weekend "Marina Mary's" are not too bright!
Sounds like quite the scene! Boats here often get even less care but the fact they are used every day seems to keen them running. The gunk in the water jackets never gets a chance to dry out and set hard.
Great to see the hens looking happy, I have a four stroke Suzuki 4 which has stopped pumping water which I will have to try and fix soon possible as I rely on to get to and back from my fishing boat most days, I have the impellor kit just need to find a thermostat kit for it too, what do you think of these engines
it may be your headgasket if its made like a johnson it can ahht times burn a hole that lets exhaust force water back down to impeller making it run hot replace head gasket fixes it you can see hole in gasket as you take it off
The poppet valve is a valve that is opened by water pressure (unlike a thermostat that opens with temperature) The idea is to increase the flow of water through the head at higher RPM. It's hard for me to show as these smaller outboards don't have one.
Great storm mate and obviously good use of the copper mallet. Is anything really fixed if a hammer wasn't needed at some point? 🤣 Great video, so interesting. Thanks .. 😜
Have you ever considered running a weak acid (Strong vinegar, Muriatic, phosphoric etc.) through the water passages to disonve corrosion as a last ditch effort to clean the passages out before having to disassemble the engine?
Hey Stu, I hear that the Nulon company has come up with a new aerosol penetrating spray that is 50% better that " Shift You Bastard ". It's called " Don't Snap Off You Bastard ".
Thanks so much for your great videos. Have you done one that talks to intermittent tell tale streams? My motor runs really well but when trolling the tell tale will stop for a min or two before starting again. There doesn’t seem to be any performance issues….
I have just purchased a s/h rib with a 2006 8hp Mariner 2 stroke not running but told it needed a carby overhaul (same configuration as the Tohatsu's in this video). With no history i decided to replace impella & overhaul carby. Cranked it up today and runs great on muffs with a good flow out of tell tale but placed in a bin of water (8" above skeg line so pump should prime), and no water coming out of tell tale and engine starting to overheat, pulled it out and back on muffs and fine again with scalding hot water coming out of tell tale for a minute before the fresh water cycled through. I really don't want to but thinking head to come off and check thermostat, galleries etc. but hoping you might have a suggestion where i should start to investigate? Thanks muchly
I own a Century 2200 WA with a Yamaha 225 outboard. I will probably never own a steel boat. I cannot weld. I will probably never own a Detroit 2 stroke diesel engine. So why do I feel compelled to watch the entire back catalog of Renko's restoration? :) Do I need a psychiatrist? My family certainly think so. \ I am also waiting for that video to explain why I seem to get a slick around my outboard when I raise an lower it. I cannot see anything escaping from the rams (the caps are new). I even get the slick simply by standing on the transom and forcing the leg to dip in the water, so whatever it is its on the casing too. The engine was recently rebuilt to cure the rot problem under the power head around the seal. Baffled in the UK :(
1979 Johnson 9.9hp. 10R79B. Dead and dry yellow jackets showing through intake holes. No water at telltale. After thermostat is out can you flush motor through that upper hole? Or do I need to remove the bottom end? Not sure how for up they went. 😮
Do you have any advice for me on this, I have a 30hp johnson from 1987 that I'm trying to change the impeller/water pump on. The through bolt/stud on the lower unit has corroded and won't budge and I'm afraid of breaking the fins off if I bash to much at it. I have tried wiggling, heating and some light bashing but no luck
It also could the the corrosion at the top of the driveshaft that I was worried about in this video. Really all you can do is apply more heat, more oil and more pressure. Sometimes if I can open up a small gap I will try hammering wooden wedges into the gap. You can also lay a piece of timber along the length of the fin when hammering to reduce the risk of them breaking when hammering.
Absolutely loving your channel. Learning a ton. I recently purchased a 1892 Hydra Sport 1800 CC with a 1990 Johnson 140 VRO. Do you recommend bypassing the VRO and premixing fuel? If so, would I need to make any carb adjustments prior to bypassing?
I like your work ... i have a quick question. yamaha f30aet why would the tell tail be pumping hot water to hot to touch after water pump replacment and is this normal
On Evinrudes they have three water deflectors (rubber hose inserts) one at the top of the cylinder and two at the bottom cylinder on each head which are pulled out and installed by pushing new ones into the designated slots along the cylinder. They divert circulated water, so it flows in a specific direction for cooling. If any of these defectors collapse from age or heat and are distorted or if they are missing it will cause the engine to overheat. I read that you can go to an auto parts store and buy hose with 3/8" outside diameter and cut it to the lengths you need and use it. Boat parts outlets want $7 to $15 a piece for these hose pieces less than 2" long. The ones in this 1979 35hp Evinrude that I am replacing the head gasket are bad and I am thinking about matching the hose up at an auto parts store to save paying around $25. Do you have any videos on this? I bought this engine with the engine surface looking like new for $200 with the top cylinder at 120lbs and zero for the bottom cylinder. It looks like someone replaced the head gasket recently, but it blew again. It was burnt throw at the bottom where the two bad water deflectors are. The bolts also seemed too loose like someone did not re-torque the head after running it. I drilled two holes in the lower cowl housing so I can fit a short extension through and put a socket on in order to torque the two bottom bolts. The head seems to be true using a framing square. Cylinders all smooth but glazed up. Can I use a chemical to clean up the glaze with the motor tilted so excess runs away from the rings or should I just scotch brite or sandpaper it just enough to shine and wiping it out? Didn't want to hone it and chance getting abrasive to the rings. This is a long shaft with electric start and controls. I have a 78 short shaft with tiller handle that i plan on putting this power head on the base to use the short shaft housing and tiller handle. Plan on changing the longer shift rod to the shorter one and using the same foot from the 79 model if after changing the water deflectors and head gasket this 79 motor turns out to be as good as it looks. Also, will bolt on the pull start from the 78 so I have both electric and pull start. Coils, power pack, fuel pump all were recently changed by previous owner. So, like you are doing in your video just piecing it together since a friend gave me the 78 motor which sat up for years. If everything works out should have a great motor for around $260 with cost of gaskets, deflectors, and thermostat. If not, the parts are worth what I have invested and may rebuild the 79 if necessary.
Hi, your great. Been a real help in a lot of ways for me rebuilding my 1989 110 v4 Johnson motor. I have question maybe you can help with. I have an extra min kota maxum trolling motor that came with the boat from 1990, but as for stickers or labeling of voltage and thrust are long since gone. I’m wanting to test it on 24 volt configuration and don’t care if it burns up due to being an extra one anyway. I’m thinking of hooking it up on my work bench to 24 volts and running it for a while to see if it burns up or not, but how long would it take to fail if I do, and or is there a better way. Can’t look at the old way boat batteries were wired as it was all removed when I got it. Thanks.
do not know how many outboard eng have this but a 40 johnson dos the head gasket can blow and eng runs ok but it it over heats ????th head is made with a hole i between water jackey and exhaust the head gasket covers this hole so on one side you have the thermastat and other side exhaust so if it burns thru over time the exhaust will force water back down to impeller and it runs hot i replaced impeler 3 times till i found the tbl by accident i removed the thermastat cover ask my friend to spin eng while i listened i heard the piston comressing air into thermastat location that told me head gasket blowed removed head gasket there was a hole burned in about 1/4 in in dia repace head gasket no more tbl had my first eng at about 12yrs a 5 hp elgin sears mtr.i am 88 now a smaller eng has this same feature so check thermastat hole first before pulling lower unit a lot easiere
Hi dangar so my 150 blackmaxx taletell is like spitting water instead of a steady stream is that what you mean by pulsing? If so I'll take a look at my head gasket
I also own a tohatsu 9.8.. Firstly im looking to convert it to electric start so was wondering if you knew how to install the flywheel ring gear?,im unsure if the gear is fastened or if its heated up then placed on the flywheel. Secondly next year i intend to replace the head gasket and exhaust plate gasket/s but have heard that head bolts often shear when doing so, in your opinion will heat treatment help with this?, any advice will be appreciated. Thanks.
I’m having overheating issues on an 2014 merc 3.5 when I was attempting to diagnose and pulled the lower unit the drive shaft was full of soot and carbon on the top 20 cm. I’m leaning towards blown gasket but does the carbon indicate anything?
I have exactly the same Problem on the same engine type! Why did they have to hide the Thermostat behind the cylinder head. That makes absolutely no sense at all! Can I use something like citric acid or vinnegar to clean the lime/salt/corrosion build up or is that a stupid idea? I can clean everything that I can see with mechanical tools but cant reach all the little waterchannels this engine has.
Hey mate, sounds great. I've got a few projects I'm planning to film soon that could use an outboard of about that size. Send me an email to stu@dangarmarine.com
if you ever have a prob. where it will idle fine bu no rev up .easy fix the tiny o rings both ends of fuel hose can develope a leak due to a torn place you can see so take a fishhook stick the oring and jerk it out both ends press new o rings in with your thumb now it will rev it was leaking air so eng was pullin air not gas from tank get these o rings any boat shop keep handy beats pad ling any day
How do you know if the head gasket is blown I have a 1970 evinrude 70hp I changed the water pump only cause the engine was a barn find so I installed a new one it didnt have a tell tale so I added one near the thermostat and no water coming out I let it run for a good min or two nothing I see water coming out of the nose of the gearbox like just above it alarm goes off after 5 min running with muffs took out thermostat cleaned it tested it on stove in boiling water she opens in stumped gonna maybe take the foot back off and stick the garden hose up to the water tube and see if any comes out the thermostat hole with no rad an Coolant res🎉ervoir like🎉 a skidoo how do tell if it's head gasket on an outboard I have a new thermostat coming is it possible that engine ain't designed to run with muffs cause it ran good few yrs back it's been sitting for a few I'm almost out of ideas
Hey Stu. I'm a week away from getting my first boat... a used 14' runabout with a 40hp 2 stroke merc from 1999 so I'm madly trying to aquire a lifetime's worth of knowledge in a week of watching youtube vids. :) From years of working on cars (mostly British cars from the 1960's) I'm familiar with overheating problems, but they've got temperature guages and radiators that froth and bubble... small outboards have neither, so how do you tell it's overheating before it seizes and you're left floating in the middle of nowhere?
“Definitely don’t want to look at the manual”. Classic line that almost every man can relate to! Thanks for another great video.
Thanks for watching!
Stu, these were the videos that brought me to your channel in the first place! Don't get me wrong, you do lots of interesting things and I enjoyed all the Renko stuff, but this is where its at for me!
Don''t mess with Daffy's food... A side note on over heating. Keep an eye out for pieces of plastic, plastic bags, etc., floating at the water's surface. If your boat runs over them, they can wrap around your lower unit and cover the water intakes.
Yep, for sure, blocking the intake grill stops any cooling water fast. One other thing I forgot to mention is a blocked behind the exhaust cover can stop it exiting, another way to prevent any flow of water. It's only a small outlet and it is common for the internal anode to break off an block the hole...
Plastic bag middle Botany Bay thirty years ago, made it to end of runway rock wall, today you get shot
Good to see you back at the bench Stu ! I love working on small engines...
Thanks mate. I love the small engines too!
So much to learn,
love the close ups, really helpful.
Picture in picture definitely a plus
thank you.
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it.
Every time I have a hard problem I don't understand and no one else can answer, I find it here. Your description of the symptoms of the blown head gasket nailed my symptoms perfectly. I couldnt understand why my telltale would pulse and then get hot and weak, even with a brand new thermostat and good water flow. The pulsing was evident but I thought I was being over critical. More exhaust than normal and you explanation of why. I can't find outboard mechanics where I am at, so this site saves me. Thank you. Gonna buy some of your merch now.
I like your Business scheme. A Two-fer-Oner! Double dodgy makes a Beauty! It's like a Ponzi scheme with outdoor motors! Lol again. Blessings Stu. Love your channel.
One for the price of two is always a winner. ;)
Love watching your videos and learn so much. When you were talking about ordering gaskets I was thinking that I sometimes find it hard to be confident I have the right part numbers. I think a video of the process you use to find parts diagrams and order parts could be a great addition to your website.
Thanks mate. Yes, I have been thinking about doing something very similar. Leave it with me!
@@DangarMarine will a two wire trim motor work with solenoids or do I need to remove them and use trim relays, it’s for a 120 force 1996
Crowley marine has every parts diagram you’ll ever need m8
Great work Doug. I know someone who, on a world sail, had a Seagull tender outboard with a poorly bottom end and while in the Far East they stumbled over a Seagull lower end stuck deep into a beach. I know it sounds far-fetched but that one was better then what they had and it served for their trip. Just shows that engine amalgamation is a real thing as you show. It does amaze me how intricate and complicated many OB engines have become, especially multi-cylinder 4 strokes. They are as sophisticated as modern motorbike motors but work in much harsher environments, often with insufficient care. They are like watches where a careless owner has forgotten to screw down the winder yet complains that they fail. Cheers for the content!
It is amazing how well lower units can last out in the wild if the seals are still good. Modern EFI four stroke outboards certainly are every bit as complicated as many car and bike engines these days.
i bought 2 75 hp 1976 chrysler outboards for $150.00. between the two i rebuilt the best one, honed cylinders, new rings, cleaned it inside out new gaskets all round, new fuel pump ect. been running great 4 years now.
Great work! Good size outboard to build for not much money. :)
LOving this and the cool dude slicked back hair Stu as well !
I have a 1973 Evinrude 65 HP that had a blown crankcase on it (all the horses ran out of the hole in the block!).
I was going to strip it and sell the parts, but I found a good crankcase on eBay for $100 (US). A little cleaning and combining, some new gaskets, obviously a little help from Dangar Marine videos 🙂, and now it's on my bass boat!
Love the background music you picked for the show........ Thanks for all your tips. Started taking my 50 apart a year ago but still sitting as is. Need to get on it...... 😎✌
More outboard stuff 🤩On a geeky note, I recognise that Kehin carburettor from both the engines. It's also used in Mercury's 4/5hps models 🤓
Yep! Tohatsu make all the Mercury outboards under 30HP.
Wonderful stuff. Nicely explained Skipper, let's hope the hybrid "new" outboard will be happy and healthy. Great stuff cheers!!👍👍👍
Thanks mate!
Burnt lower engine gasket (base gasket) is also one failure in small 2 stroke outboards you need to keep your eye on when the water pump fails and engine overheats.
Most telling symptom of blown lower gasket is in most cases that the engine runs only without the motor cover.
Yes, an exhaust leak under the cowling can give an engine all sorts of problems.
Hay stu there’s some Detroit engines for spares on gum tree at Anna bay in port Stephens at the moment
Thanks Troy, I'll let Adrian know.
With a very large amount of 50’s and 60’s and 70’s outboards it’s easy to take 2 or 3 to make one really nice one both performance and cosmetic! With that one having cable throttle have you ever thought of using a slide type carb ? All the ones I do have a mechanical throttle !
Very true! I haven't tried experimenting with different types of carburettors but would be interesting to do.
Loved this one stu. Good to c ya back on outboards. Lol
Thanks John, glad you enjoyed it. :)
Your good. I live on the chesapeake bay and go threw old outboard motors every couple seasons... I find them cheap.. often making 2 out of 3 or 4motors..Great video
Stu around one of the lakes here, it has fine sand and we've seen the block full of dirt. Expressly if the operator runs it up on the sand bars.😉😁
For sure, doing a bit of dredging / prop polishing can fill a block with grit pretty fast!
Nice one mate...very useful for all. Nearly 400 vids up too...woohoooo !!
Thanks Mark! Shame about the footy final mate. Dad is a season ticket holder who was born in Parramatta hospital, he feels your pain...
I appreciate your prompt honesty.
I suffer from an overabundance of the herein described mix & match motor syndrome. My shop is FULL of matching sets with mismatching issues. And there are are lots of "different" engines that utilize the same lower units or the same midsection, tilt units, etc.... so I sell of lot of refurbished engines that, when asked by the buyer what year it is, I have to say; "well, it's a 1987/1989/1992 Suzuki DT55/65 with a Mercury 35/45/50 prop."
Got to love the Frankenstein outboard!
@@DangarMarine Frankenstein was the Dr, not the monster made of an ensemble of body parts (sorry, just had to)🤣
One of my Harleys I put together in 2016 is a bit of a hodgepodge of parts. Someone will ask me what year it is. I tell them it's titled as a 1949 as that is the frame I used. But I like to call it my Johnny Cash special "I built it one piece at a time" as the song says.
Good advice as usual.
Thanks Bob!
...good info, keep safe
Thanks mate, you too!
Blown head gasket can also lead to a no or really hard start soon after running. Gets water in the lower cylinder. The problem is that a blown exhaust gasket does the same damn thing...
Yep, you certainly can get all sorts of weird symptoms under different circumstances.
I've heard of people putting some diluted muriatic acid or other acid through the cooling system to dissolve or flush out any junk or blockages - but that seems harsh.
brilliant explanations as always, I would love to know a bit apout pressure release poppet valve on the cooling systems, particularly where to find them and which engines have them.
This video couldn't have come at a better time. I've been dealing with my 85 3.6 liter Evinrude Looper. It's been overheating. despite putting a brand new water pump & housing on it, it won't build water pressure, and overheats. I removed the thermostats and ran the engine to see if it was pumping water to the top of the engine and it was, but there was quite a bit of exhaust coming out of the thermostat holes. I asked on a OMC performance page if this was normal, and was told it was, so I didn't think much of it (as this engine has always been extremely reliable).
To make a long story short, I wound up getting it really hot, thought I ruined it. hot horns were going on and off randomly, could never get more than about 5psi water pressure at the gauge (I surface drive the prop with low water pickups and nosecone). Sadly the engine 'heat seized' and quit.
Next day, the engine was free, made good compression, turned flywheel by hand, felt good with no catches. used a bore scope and couldn't see any damage on pistons, and plugs looked good (no aluminum dust on them). Started engine and it ran, without lower unit on. Did a water pressure test by using a garden hose and hose clamp on the water intake pipe, and water started leaking out the head gaskets. Removed heads and it looks like no leaks on the combustion sealing rings. Cylinder bores look good, pistons look good (no marks of detonation). But cylinder sleeve #3 has rotated in the block about 1/8 of a turn, half way closing off the valves(ports). Gotta heat the block in a oven and rotate it back into place, but haven't done so yet, because I was thinking there's probably a crack in the water jacket between the exhaust housing and water jacket. But now I'm thinking the head gaskets probably failed.
Would you think I'm most likely correct? Should I have the block and heads magnafluxed? Thanks for your channel, you've giving good info in the past.
If may well simply be a headgasket problem rather than a crack but it certainly wouldn't hurt to have the head checked.
Love your videos even though I have never touched a marine engine! Would just like to suggest that you affix the camera currently attached to your workbench, to a bracket on the wall (or similar). That way the earth won't shake whenever you drop a powerhead on the bench! 😉
Thanks mate. Yes, could use an isolated mounting!
I had overheating on low rpm on my yamaha f25 4stroke.the problem was brass tube corodded,and there were many holes along it,so in low rpm there was not enough water coming in the block,when throtlle was open no alarm
Another benefit with making 2 from one, u may also get a load of spares where both motors have working parts like coil packs
Very much so! I'll definitely strip all of the unused parts off the other motor and keep them somewhere dafe.
@@DangarMarine somewhere so safe you will definitely forget where you put them when u need them, and go buy a new part, then find said safe place 3 months later
@@DangarMarine dafety first!
Man Stu.. I'm having horrible, horrible PTSD flashbacks to my days of digging all the CRAP out of outboards stuck in saltwater that saw the air and a mechanic maybe once a year.. if I was lucky! 🤬 In my time at the marina it was the days people were still dumping ATF in the fuel rather than 2 stroke oil; cooling passages so clogged up the owners wouldn't have their heat issues looked into until something seized or caught on fire.. in the middle of the bay. Weekend "Marina Mary's" are not too bright!
Sounds like quite the scene! Boats here often get even less care but the fact they are used every day seems to keen them running. The gunk in the water jackets never gets a chance to dry out and set hard.
@@DangarMarine Boob idiocy @ the side-job is not the good kind of side-boob 😁
Thank you
You're welcome!
Great to see the hens looking happy, I have a four stroke Suzuki 4 which has stopped pumping water which I will have to try and fix soon possible as I rely on to get to and back from my fishing boat most days, I have the impellor kit just need to find a thermostat kit for it too, what do you think of these engines
Suzuki do make very good four stroke motors that's for sure.
That’s great to know thanks, worth me fixing it up then probably 🤞🤞🤞
it may be your headgasket if its made like a johnson it can ahht times burn a hole that lets exhaust force water back down to impeller making it run hot replace head gasket fixes it you can see hole in gasket as you take it off
@@frankdavidson9675 thanks I'm going to pull it off the boat soon and give it a birthday, its used most days just now though
Can you touch on the Poppet Valve at some point?? Tks for the video.
The poppet valve is a valve that is opened by water pressure (unlike a thermostat that opens with temperature) The idea is to increase the flow of water through the head at higher RPM. It's hard for me to show as these smaller outboards don't have one.
Great storm mate and obviously good use of the copper mallet. Is anything really fixed if a hammer wasn't needed at some point? 🤣 Great video, so interesting. Thanks .. 😜
The bigger the problem the bigger the hammer. ;)
And I've found that hammers are great for...hamming. 🤨
I love this!
Glad you enjoyed. :)
Great magpie😀
Very interesting vlog Stu👍
Thanks 👍
@@DangarMarine love the 🐓
Have you ever considered running a weak acid (Strong vinegar, Muriatic, phosphoric etc.) through the water passages to disonve corrosion as a last ditch effort to clean the passages out before having to disassemble the engine?
Yes, and have had good success doing that. Here is a video I did on different solutions th-cam.com/video/8w_o5xB8ZFI/w-d-xo.html
Very nice tank you for showing it on you tube have a nice day 😊
Thank you very much. Tried the sponsor but I see "We sell and ship to customers in the U.S. only" So sad.... they seem good
Hey Stu, I hear that the Nulon company has come up with a new aerosol penetrating
spray that is 50% better that " Shift You Bastard ". It's called " Don't Snap Off You Bastard ".
Put me down for a whole box!
Wurth Rostoff is THE best penetrating fluid on the planet. I've seen it it work where nothing else would many times.
Thanks so much for your great videos. Have you done one that talks to intermittent tell tale streams? My motor runs really well but when trolling the tell tale will stop for a min or two before starting again. There doesn’t seem to be any performance issues….
I have just purchased a s/h rib with a 2006 8hp Mariner 2 stroke not running but told it needed a carby overhaul (same configuration as the Tohatsu's in this video). With no history i decided to replace impella & overhaul carby. Cranked it up today and runs great on muffs with a good flow out of tell tale but placed in a bin of water (8" above skeg line so pump should prime), and no water coming out of tell tale and engine starting to overheat, pulled it out and back on muffs and fine again with scalding hot water coming out of tell tale for a minute before the fresh water cycled through. I really don't want to but thinking head to come off and check thermostat, galleries etc. but hoping you might have a suggestion where i should start to investigate?
Thanks muchly
Stu, I have a quick question. When you do any kind of "fix" do you apply anti-seize to the threads/surfaces? I swear by that stuff!
Ususally just a bit of marine grease, it certainly saves you when it comes time to pull things apart again!
I own a Century 2200 WA with a Yamaha 225 outboard. I will probably never own a steel boat. I cannot weld. I will probably never own a Detroit 2 stroke diesel engine. So why do I feel compelled to watch the entire back catalog of Renko's restoration? :) Do I need a psychiatrist? My family certainly think so. \
I am also waiting for that video to explain why I seem to get a slick around my outboard when I raise an lower it. I cannot see anything escaping from the rams (the caps are new). I even get the slick simply by standing on the transom and forcing the leg to dip in the water, so whatever it is its on the casing too. The engine was recently rebuilt to cure the rot problem under the power head around the seal. Baffled in the UK :(
1979 Johnson 9.9hp. 10R79B. Dead and dry yellow jackets showing through intake holes. No water at telltale. After thermostat is out can you flush motor through that upper hole? Or do I need to remove the bottom end? Not sure how for up they went. 😮
I have a question from an older video, will a two wire trim motor work with solenoids or do I need trim relays? In desperate need of help
Do you have any advice for me on this, I have a 30hp johnson from 1987 that I'm trying to change the impeller/water pump on. The through bolt/stud on the lower unit has corroded and won't budge and I'm afraid of breaking the fins off if I bash to much at it. I have tried wiggling, heating and some light bashing but no luck
It also could the the corrosion at the top of the driveshaft that I was worried about in this video. Really all you can do is apply more heat, more oil and more pressure. Sometimes if I can open up a small gap I will try hammering wooden wedges into the gap. You can also lay a piece of timber along the length of the fin when hammering to reduce the risk of them breaking when hammering.
Absolutely loving your channel. Learning a ton. I recently purchased a 1892 Hydra Sport 1800 CC with a 1990 Johnson 140 VRO. Do you recommend bypassing the VRO and premixing fuel? If so, would I need to make any carb adjustments prior to bypassing?
Gute Arbeit und ein tolles Video...... Grüsse aus Deutschland......
Hi there to you .like your videos, I'm about to by a evinrude 150hp what's your opinion about this motor?
They seem to be pretty good motors, particularly if the price is right and it has been kept in good condition.
I spotted shoes and socks on today's video must have been a really cold day...
It was!
I like your work ... i have a quick question. yamaha f30aet why would the tell tail be pumping hot water to hot to touch after water pump replacment and is this normal
On Evinrudes they have three water deflectors (rubber hose inserts) one at the top of the cylinder and two at the bottom cylinder on each head which are pulled out and installed by pushing new ones into the designated slots along the cylinder. They divert circulated water, so it flows in a specific direction for cooling. If any of these defectors collapse from age or heat and are distorted or if they are missing it will cause the engine to overheat. I read that you can go to an auto parts store and buy hose with 3/8" outside diameter and cut it to the lengths you need and use it. Boat parts outlets want $7 to $15 a piece for these hose pieces less than 2" long. The ones in this 1979 35hp Evinrude that I am replacing the head gasket are bad and I am thinking about matching the hose up at an auto parts store to save paying around $25. Do you have any videos on this? I bought this engine with the engine surface looking like new for $200 with the top cylinder at 120lbs and zero for the bottom cylinder. It looks like someone replaced the head gasket recently, but it blew again. It was burnt throw at the bottom where the two bad water deflectors are. The bolts also seemed too loose like someone did not re-torque the head after running it. I drilled two holes in the lower cowl housing so I can fit a short extension through and put a socket on in order to torque the two bottom bolts. The head seems to be true using a framing square. Cylinders all smooth but glazed up. Can I use a chemical to clean up the glaze with the motor tilted so excess runs away from the rings or should I just scotch brite or sandpaper it just enough to shine and wiping it out? Didn't want to hone it and chance getting abrasive to the rings. This is a long shaft with electric start and controls. I have a 78 short shaft with tiller handle that i plan on putting this power head on the base to use the short shaft housing and tiller handle. Plan on changing the longer shift rod to the shorter one and using the same foot from the 79 model if after changing the water deflectors and head gasket this 79 motor turns out to be as good as it looks. Also, will bolt on the pull start from the 78 so I have both electric and pull start. Coils, power pack, fuel pump all were recently changed by previous owner. So, like you are doing in your video just piecing it together since a friend gave me the 78 motor which sat up for years. If everything works out should have a great motor for around $260 with cost of gaskets, deflectors, and thermostat. If not, the parts are worth what I have invested and may rebuild the 79 if necessary.
Hi, your great. Been a real help in a lot of ways for me rebuilding my 1989 110 v4 Johnson motor. I have question maybe you can help with. I have an extra min kota maxum trolling motor that came with the boat from 1990, but as for stickers or labeling of voltage and thrust are long since gone. I’m wanting to test it on 24 volt configuration and don’t care if it burns up due to being an extra one anyway. I’m thinking of hooking it up on my work bench to 24 volts and running it for a while to see if it burns up or not, but how long would it take to fail if I do, and or is there a better way. Can’t look at the old way boat batteries were wired as it was all removed when I got it. Thanks.
do not know how many outboard eng have this but a 40 johnson dos the head gasket can blow and eng runs ok but it it over heats ????th head is made with a hole i between water jackey and exhaust the head gasket covers this hole so on one side you have the thermastat and other side exhaust so if it burns thru over time the exhaust will force water back down to impeller and it runs hot i replaced impeler 3 times till i found the tbl by accident i removed the thermastat cover ask my friend to spin eng while i listened i heard the piston comressing air into thermastat location that told me head gasket blowed removed head gasket there was a hole burned in about 1/4 in in dia repace head gasket no more tbl had my first eng at about 12yrs a 5 hp elgin sears mtr.i am 88 now a smaller eng has this same feature so check thermastat hole first before pulling lower unit a lot easiere
Nicely diagnosed!
When it comes to deleting oil injection on two stroke outboard Yamaha is it okay to pull gear out the engine block and not just work gear in pump
Any chance you've delt with an early dt2 suzuki and know how to go about servicing the gearbox, no level bung in sight.
Thanks
Hi dangar so my 150 blackmaxx taletell is like spitting water instead of a steady stream is that what you mean by pulsing? If so I'll take a look at my head gasket
Has anyone used a thermal camera to check the correct temperature patterns of the engine?
I have one installed in Renko th-cam.com/video/xu5OK4gxTmM/w-d-xo.html
playing with outboards
I also own a tohatsu 9.8.. Firstly im looking to convert it to electric start so was wondering if you knew how to install the flywheel ring gear?,im unsure if the gear is fastened or if its heated up then placed on the flywheel. Secondly next year i intend to replace the head gasket and exhaust plate gasket/s but have heard that head bolts often shear when doing so, in your opinion will heat treatment help with this?, any advice will be appreciated. Thanks.
The auto captions said "Hey there Dan ghost you here"
It seems to change every week... :)
I’m having overheating issues on an 2014 merc 3.5 when I was attempting to diagnose and pulled the lower unit the drive shaft was full of soot and carbon on the top 20 cm. I’m leaning towards blown gasket but does the carbon indicate anything?
I have exactly the same Problem on the same engine type! Why did they have to hide the Thermostat behind the cylinder head. That makes absolutely no sense at all! Can I use something like citric acid or vinnegar to clean the lime/salt/corrosion build up or is that a stupid idea? I can clean everything that I can see with mechanical tools but cant reach all the little waterchannels this engine has.
Dou you know my NSF9.8A3 - 4 Stroke Nissan has milky oil ? Oil engine look like milk. how to fix this issue?
Don't suppose you want a donor 10hp Honda ? Has a seized accellerator pump , but otherwise ok.about 2011 model.
Hey mate, sounds great. I've got a few projects I'm planning to film soon that could use an outboard of about that size. Send me an email to stu@dangarmarine.com
Poppet Valve problems with over heating?
if you ever have a prob. where it will idle fine bu no rev up .easy fix the tiny o rings both ends of fuel hose can develope a leak due to a torn place you can see so take a fishhook stick the oring and jerk it out both ends press new o rings in with your thumb now it will rev it was leaking air so eng was pullin air not gas from tank get these o rings any boat shop keep handy beats pad ling any day
How do you know if the head gasket is blown I have a 1970 evinrude 70hp I changed the water pump only cause the engine was a barn find so I installed a new one it didnt have a tell tale so I added one near the thermostat and no water coming out I let it run for a good min or two nothing I see water coming out of the nose of the gearbox like just above it alarm goes off after 5 min running with muffs took out thermostat cleaned it tested it on stove in boiling water she opens in stumped gonna maybe take the foot back off and stick the garden hose up to the water tube and see if any comes out the thermostat hole with no rad an Coolant res🎉ervoir like🎉 a skidoo how do tell if it's head gasket on an outboard I have a new thermostat coming is it possible that engine ain't designed to run with muffs cause it ran good few yrs back it's been sitting for a few I'm almost out of ideas
Hey Stu. I'm a week away from getting my first boat... a used 14' runabout with a 40hp 2 stroke merc from 1999 so I'm madly trying to aquire a lifetime's worth of knowledge in a week of watching youtube vids. :) From years of working on cars (mostly British cars from the 1960's) I'm familiar with overheating problems, but they've got temperature guages and radiators that froth and bubble... small outboards have neither, so how do you tell it's overheating before it seizes and you're left floating in the middle of nowhere?
سلام. موتور5 یاماها دارم اهرم دنده گم شده.لطف کنید عکس یا فیلم بفرستید تا براش درست کنم..ممنون
For a long time I thought it was DangEr Marine! lol
👍
Thanks Stu & your fine Birds lol......Cheers mate 🍻🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍻🥃🥂🍼😶🌫👀👍.....Shoe🇺🇸
Welcome Shoe!
Who else heard 'tappy tap tap' in his head at 7:52
LOL
😍😍😍😍👍👍👍👍👍
The Thunder like Frankenstein's Laboratory- Funny!
🛥Thanks!
Carbon monoxide vs. carbon dioxide?
I get the funny feeling that I would get two old outboards, each with the same problems.
Did I see shoes? Safety first!
Warmth first. ;)
.
When all else fails read the book
But only when all else has failed… ;)
2x crap outboards divided in half gives 1 crap outboard by my maths?
Oh Steve, your maths is so euclidean.
Haven't seen any new videos in a year. going to unsubscribe soon.
Fix both - a hone is bugger easy and rings are cheap-